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Our Heritage & the Top of the Kingdom of Tanks – Res Vehera & Ritigala…

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Year and Month 1-2 Apr 2015
Number of Days 2
Crew Only Me
Accommodation Daya’s Place, Keeriyagaswewa.
Transport By Train, Bus, Tuk-Tuk and on Foot
Activities Archaeology, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent.
Route Day 01

Nugegoda->Colombo Fort->Aukana->Res Vehera->Kekirawa>Keeriyagaswewa.

 Day 02

 Keeriyagaswewa->Kekirawa->Colombo.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • The Udaya Devi leaves Colombo Fort at 6.05am.
    • Niroshan is a very good tuk-tuk driver at Aukana – 0774-676918.
    • You’ll need permission to enter the image houses of Res Vehera. Ask for Ukku Banda mama who has the keys.
    • Daya (071-119138 or 072-9740158) is a very good person and helpful. Call him beforehand if you plan to stay overnight or need any guidance.
    • You need permission to go beyond the Archeological Site.
    • No permit or ticket needs to visit the Archeological Site and remains. I wish they’d charge some money.
    • Elephants roam around the area so walking along the roads in and around Ritigala when dark or even in the evenings is not recommended.
    • Check my Previous Report for more details.
    • Don’t disturb the tranquility of the forest and archeological site.
    • Help protect the Mother Nature.
    • Check the Video Documentary here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya everyone, hope you are having a good time especially during and after the New Year. Well, I’m gonna tell you a story that happened two weeks before the new year in and around the Kingdom of Tanks or if you prefer “Wevu Bendi Rajyaya”. I’m sure you can remember the last time I was there hovering around Aukana & Ritigala amid heavy rains. It was my first serious visit to the North Central which turned out to be a great success and paved way for more future visits.

Unfortunately the heavy showers late last year had caused heavy flooding in A’Pura and Polonnaruwa destroying many acres of farmlands. Most of the farmers could only watch the heartless flow of water reducing their sweat, tears and blood into nothing but mud and uprooted plants that were way beyond their worth. All of their exhausting work was in vain and even the government did very little to compensate for those people. Those officials were far more interested in the presidential election than the fate of these innocent farmers without whose dedication, we’d have to starve.

The villages around Ritigala where my host Dayararathna lives were not exempted from the natural disaster and his paddy fields too were washed away making the lives a whole lot tougher. They didn’t get disheartened by the floods or the ignorant behavior by the relevant authorities but started to plough once again as soon as the rains eased. They were in the harvesting stage when I called him late March asking about the weather. The weather was back to normal and I decided to begin where I left last time. As we had just finished a grand tour in Knuckles and another of my Rail Hikes, I was without a partner for a journey so soon. I had a 4-day break with nothing to do. Knowing it’d only make things awkward for my family to find me home doing nothing wasn’t a sensible thing. They’d probably get the notion that I’d been given the sack. So I didn’t wanna create so much anxiety. Remembering that even last time I went on my own, I  decided to do the same once again just for the hell of it.

Last time I managed to squeeze Aukana, one of the greatest architectural marvels in the whole world, into my itinerary followed by the archeological remains of Ritigala and one of its seven peaks, Una Kanda. In fact I visited the Aukana Buddha amid heavy rains with a borrowed and battered raincoat from my tuk-tuk driver, Niroshan. So I called him and got him to drive me to the other statue that is located about 16km from Aukana, the Res Vehera. Then I called Daya just to let him know my plans and fixed the accommodation and the transport.

So with so much hopes under one arm and a light overnight bag in the other I set off to meet another sexy lady on the dawn of April Fools’ Day. A quick look at the FB showed that two of my friends had been unlucky enough to have been born on this day. I arrived at Fort station just after 5am and went into find the station was bustling with many people, mainly tourists despite this being a Tuesday.  Free Wi-Fi was introduced in fort station and few other places the day before and sure enough, everyone was looking at their phones checking this and that taking the full use.

I checked the phone too and found many portals but when tried to use, realized that you gotta register and get the password. So no free internet for me yet and I just spent the time munching on an egg bun that tasted like moulded cardboard and a roll that had probably been fried at least once before. That is the meals served by the station canteen and when I asked for bottle of water, one of them offered a bottle-shaped ice cube. The bugger must’ve thought I wanted to eat water rather than drink it.

Cursing under the breath for the shoddy canteen I occupied one of the chairs and looked on. The sexy girl I was waiting for said she would come before 6am. The KKS express train was waiting at No. 3 platform gleaming in sky blue. Around 5.30am, Podi Menike came in and many people squeezed in. Couple of night mails arrived disgorging sleep deprived passengers who walked as if under sedation. Still no sign of this girl. I was getting impatient and kept looking for a glimpse of her. Around 5.50am, she came with her usual charm as if nothing can make her quicken her pace. When I got up to go say hi, so did many others. Apparently there had been many others waiting for her. That is Udaya Devi for you.

Finding a seat was like musical chairs. There were so many empty ones and everyone kept hopping one to the other until they realized all the seats were alike. At the chime of 6.05am, she pulled out of the station and carried on towards the other end of the country, Batticaloa.

Day 01

We swayed with her getting in and out of sleep while the sun rose high above the houses and then coconut trees. I always enjoy the train journeys except the inevitable delays. Just that morning I saw a cartoon shared on FB showing a passenger sitting at a station with two notices overhead. One showed Wi-Fi with a check in front while the other showed Trains with a cross next to it. Good one to start the day after the horrible fort station canteen. We arrived at Veyangoda, the most notoriously reputed place for train delays. It’s always something or the other. Today was no exception and we found Podi Menike still parked and waiting when the speaker informed there’s only one track operation just ahead close to Pallewela but assured we’d leave in a very short time. I cursed Da Vinci for his findings on relativity coz the very short time of railway officials at Veyangoda ran past 30 mins before we were given the green light. Even the last time we got held up more than 10 mins and today this.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Res Vehera aka Sasseruwa, Meegalewa.
  2. Keeriyagaswewa Village and the Tank.
  3. Ancient Ruins, Ritigala.
  4. Kodi Gala aka Kodi Kanda, Ritigala.

We arrived at Maho and waited for Udaya Devi to go refresh herself before continuing her journey. She always seems to take very long, well what more can you expect from a beautiful girl like her. She turned this way and that way before deciding to continue. There was a bitter taste in my mouth after that awful breakfast, if you can that godforsaken junk breakfast. Thankfully there came an old mum selling guava. Couple of them (going Rs. 10/- each, a steal) went down with plenty of chillie and salt giving a better feeling. What a contrast?

Just reached Maho

Just reached Maho

13-carriage train

13-carriage train

A copy of the good old Canadian one by the Indians

A copy of the good old Canadian one by the Indians

A key point in SL Railways

A key point in SL Railways

There comes her to be attached on the other side

There comes her to be attached on the other side

One of the first 12 engines to be donated, Point Pedro

One of the first 12 engines to be donated, Point Pedro

Just got coupled

Just got coupled

The delays made sure I arrived 45mins late at Aukana where Niroshan was waiting for me. We set off immediately and chatting about on the way.

Res Vehera

We took a short cut that met Galnewa Road around half way. Then Niroshan took some more short cuts which looked all alike to me until we came to Res Vehera. There were one or two signs to give directions. The road to the Res Vehera, especially the last 6km was terrible and had seen no sign of tar or concrete. It was a typical gravel road with plenty of pot holes and washed out sections. Niroshan said despite the popularity and the importance, no politician or government body had bothered to make this road properly.

Apparently hundreds and thousands of people both local and foreign visit this marvel throughout the year yet nothing has been done about this road. So if you are one of the people who could do something about this, please try and do whatever you can to make this a better one. Before we go any further, lemme give you the story behind this wonderful creation.

The Legend

“King Devanampiyatissa had planted a Bo tree in the premises in 237 BE (around 307 BC) (Buddhist Era). The rocky Buddha statue that is 42ft 4in in height is believed to have been carved by King Mahasen sometime in 276-303 AD. King Walagamba (89-77 BC or 104 BC) had later added two cave temples. There are 99 caves with drip edges where some 365 Arhath Monks had stayed. During Kandyan Era, the last Sinhala King, Weera Parakrama Narendrasinghe had renovated the temple and the complex. The wall paintings depict the stories from the Jathaka Book such as Kakkata, Dahamsonda & Manichora. Further there’s an 11.07m long sleeping Buddha statue that is the only one of its kind in the whole world. The statue had been moulded using clay and then covered with a real cotton robe before completing the statue with colors and design.”

We arrived at the temple closer to noon. There is a board at the outside the main entrance announcing the forest around it Kahalla Pallekelle Sanctuary, a place I’d not heard before. What’s more there’s an electric fence erected to keep the elephants inside the sanctuary and protect the farmlands just outside it. I wonder how practical it is to tempt them with all those crops and hoping to keep them behind an electric fence. There was a beautiful white Stupa to the side of the temple at the edge of the small tank. The tank is about half a football ground in size. There is a large rock towering at the background at the middle of which is carved the magnificent Buddha statue. There’s a plight of stairs to it. You can see the remains of caves all around and the two cave image houses are located to the left of the stairs and below the statue. There are two separate entrances to them.

We climbed the stairs and arrived at the statue and it took my breath away. Lemme be honest and tell you that it takes a lot to take my breath away and make me speechless coz I’ve seen a quite a lot of things. This was as good as the Aukana Buddha even though it looked as if half finished. The reason being the Aukana Buddha had been carved out of the rock making it look like he’s not attached to the rock in anyway. Unlike the Aukana Buddha, Res Vehera statue is still attached to the rock by a strip of rock in the back. However, the Res Vehera Buddha is taller than the Aukana Buddha. Res Vehera is 42ft 4in whereas Aukana Buddha is 38ft 10in including the Siraspatha (the symbol on the top of the head). However we mistake the heights due to the pedestal of the Aukana Buddha which increases the height dramatically to 42ft. Still Res Vehera Buddha is taller by good 4in.

I simply looked at this gorgeous creation by our ancestors. Just imagine building something in this caliber more than 2100 years ago. What kinda modern civilization we must have had then. A lot better than our current sad situation, I’m sure. The statue was in the middle of the huge flat rocky wall towering above us and looking as serenely as ever. There were kind of holes on the rocky wall just above the statue and I’m just wondering if it’s a sign of a partial roof built to protect the statue. I can go on and on describing the extraordinary statue but it’d be a lot easier to just let you look at the pictures. I’m speechless to say any further.

We spent about 20 mins admiring the statue and came down halfway the stairs and turned to the right where the ancient Bo tree is. There was a group of old ladies sweeping and cleaning the area. Instead of a typical wall around the Bo tree, there were a couple of layers of blocks of rock placed on top one another securing it. We walked around it to the rocky cave image houses. The doors were closed as in many temples nowadays, especially the ancient ones. We saw the stone scriptures on the rock above the roof of the cave and it looked in better shape and clearly legible. Unfortunately there was no way to figure out what it says. I wish there was a board with the translation placed at places like these for the travelers’ benefit. Feeling disappointed not being able to go in and see the paintings (I love the ancient paintings on walls, rocks and wooden planks) we circled the caves and got back in the front courtyard of the temple. However we saw a few tiny pagoda shaped structures probably some tombs of the monks were buried from the look of them.

At Res Vehera

At Res Vehera

Beautiful Chaithya

Beautiful Chaithya

Going towards the main statue

Going towards the main statue

Remains of ancient structures

Remains of ancient structures

This is where the cave image houses are, we'll come to it later

This is where the cave image houses are, we’ll come to it later

Oh my god!

Oh my god!

Lemme tell you this. Seeing this on a picture is nothing compared to what you see in real. A completely different feeling. So go see it for real

Lemme tell you this. Seeing this on a picture is nothing compared to what you see in real. A completely different feeling. So go see it for real

Amazing details even after many centuries

Amazing details even after many centuries

Those holes might mean a former roof over the statue

Those holes might mean a former roof over the statue

Must've looked stunning when this was built

Must’ve looked stunning when this was built

The feet

The feet

The Robe looks real enough, not a sign of rock

The Robe looks real enough, not a sign of rock

View from the image below

View from the image below

Very old Bo Tree with plenty of history behind it

Very old Bo Tree with plenty of history behind it

The rocky inscription at the image house

The rocky inscription at the image house

Closer

Closer

Surrounding rocks

Surrounding rocks

The path to the other image house

The path to the other image house

Signs of caves

Signs of caves

Where the sleeping Buddha is located

Where the sleeping Buddha is located

The steps but the door was locked

The steps but the door was locked

Where the monks are buried

Where the monks are buried

Heart breaking thing to go without seeing the image houses

Heart breaking thing to go without seeing the image houses

Niroshan came to my rescue and suggested we go talk to the chief monk and ask for permission to enter the image houses. He said that he knew the monk so we went to the living quarters. One of the old people who stay at the temple said the monk was taking a nap so we decided not to bother him. However one of the ladies asked us to go talk to Ukku Banda mama who has the keys to them. Fortunately he appeared out of nowhere and and kindly offered to show the place. It was one of the best things that happened in my life. You will know why when you see the pictures and the Documentary.

He opened the first one which is the smallest out of the two. It has a sitting Buddha with a couple of other statues. The walls are painted with beautiful pictures including the uneven rocky roof. How on earth they managed to paint such subtle paintings inside those dark caves even without the help of electricity. They must have been super humans, definitely not ordinary folks. It’s a pity that most of these image houses are now wired without giving much consideration for the destruction caused by them. Sadly it is the same situation in almost all of the places.

We finished the work there and went around to the other one, the largest cave that holds the 11m statue, the one and only in the world. As soon as I entered after Ukku Banda mama what I so sent me speechless for the second time of the day. There to the right of the cave was this gigantic statue looking very much real. Ukku Banda mama showed me around. There were many statues inside the cave but nothing as glamorous as this sleeping Buddha. Unlike many other places, you can walk around the statue the full circle being able to see him all around.

We went to the back of the statue where Ukku Banda mama pointed to a place which has been peeled off the paint showing off the cotton wool of the robe. Thanks to the ignorant and stupid travelers the temple has had to erect a chain fence to protect the statue being damaged. According to Ukku Banda mama, the buggers try to pull out the cotton strings which are prominent on the waves of the robe and take them as souvenirs. The stupid devils don’t understand the gravity of it. No wonder these places are kept under lock and key from the maniacs who stop at nothing to do some damage.

To the further corner of the statue is a square shaped hole where it’s believed that a corbra stayed protecting the statue. I wish it would still stay there to chase the stupid devils away coz now is the time that the statue is under great threat. We came out of the other side to find a bed to the side near the wall. “A bed? Inside an image house?” I’m sure you’re wondering out loud. So did I when I saw it. Ukku Banda mama offered the solution before I had the time to read the notice on it. This was offered to the temple by a carpenter as a gesture of his religious beliefs and now it stays here. Ukku Banda mama says it’s probably a couple of hundred years old but nothing to back his claim unless they do a carbon dating. The weavings on the bed had been pulled out and broken taking away as souvenirs by the same idiotic people. It’s a real shame and if you’re guilty of crimes like these, be ashamed and make a vow not to do it ever again. I guess you can remember how people used to pull out the silver thread from the old 500-rupee note. Do pull out anything else if you must but invaluable pieces of our heritage. We must protect these which have been protected and passed onto us by our ancestors and make sure our future generations get to see them as well. Our current situation might be worse than a cesspit but at least they’ll know we had the best civilization ever, incomparable even to the best of the today’s standards.

After the inevitable documentary, I left Ukku Banda mama thanking him profusely and praising him for his dedication to protect this place. Niroshan had been to soothe the nerves of the monk who had got up and kept wondering who I was. All the treasure hunting has left all the monks live in fear not only for the ancient things but also for their lives. We saw a CTB bus coming to the temple carrying the board Kumbukkadawala-Galgamuwa via Res Vehera. It’ll probably give you a clue of the public transport but don’t think it’s available that often. I highly recommend Niroshan if you need a reliable and friendly fellow who is cheerful and not rob you in broad daylight. Before we go on, take a look at the mythical story about the two statues which are completely false and has no real foundation.

Image House No. 01

Got lucky

Got lucky

My savior, Ukku Banda Mama

My savior, Ukku Banda Mama

Entering the first one

Entering the first one

The locked door

The locked door

Either side

Either side

Just about to open and reveal the secrets

Just about to open and reveal the secrets

Wood carvings

Wood carvings

Wooden roof supported by rocky pillars

Wooden roof supported by rocky pillars

Some more

Some more

Entering, just look at the statues and the paintings

Entering, just look at the statues and the paintings

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

Painting on the rocky ceiling

Painting on the rocky ceiling

One of many

One of many

More paintings along the walls

More paintings along the walls

Some more

Some more

On the uneven rocky ceiling

On the uneven rocky ceiling

Main Buddha Statue

Main Buddha Statue

Image House No. 02

Here we got the chance

Here we got the chance

Solid locks

Solid locks

Just before entering, can you see the writings?

Just before entering, can you see the writings?

Near the door

Near the door

Here's the Gigantic Statue

Here’s the Gigantic Statue

Hard to get the whole statue in one frame

Hard to get the whole statue in one frame

"Siras Patha", similar to Aukana Buddha

“Siras Patha”, similar to Aukana Buddha

Another statue by the main one

Another statue by the main one

Cotton robe exposed at the back of the head

Cotton robe exposed at the back of the head

Here clear signs of it

Here clear signs of it

Can you read the note?

Can you read the note?

This is where that cobra had stayed. It needs to be there now not then

This is where that cobra had stayed. It needs to be there now not then

Can you see the torn bits? Stupid tourists are responsible for that

Can you see the torn bits? Stupid tourists are responsible for that

Hope you can read it

Hope you can read it

One of the legs

One of the legs

See the length of the statue?

See the length of the statue?

Many more

Many more

Here a couple more

Here a couple more

Paintings too

Paintings too

Time to go

Time to go

Lifeline of the villagers

Lifeline of the villagers

The Myths of Aukana Buddha and the Res Vehera Buddha…

Let me go controversial now coz there is many legends relating these two statues. So let’s get the facts straight. How about answering a few simple questions first?

  • When did they build the Res Vehere Buddha? – It’s believed this was done by King Mahasen in 276-303 AD.
  • When did they build the Aukana Buddha? – Apparently in 5th Century by King Dhathusena (which means sometime in 459-477 AD). However there are other theories as well such as it was the 6th Century and some say this was built by King Parakrambahu the Great in the 13th Century but this is the closest we can get I suppose.
  • What’s the gap between the two building dates? – Supposing they built by Mahasen and Dhathusena respectively, approximately 180-200 years. Could be more or less.

So it’s technically impossible to have built these two statues at the same time (well it’s still possible but very unlikely considering these dates). The folklores of two brothers or the teacher and the pupil building these two statues in contest seem nothing but fairy tales. I’m not saying they’re completely bogus coz we don’t seem to have the facts at hand but from what we gather they don’t seem to amount to much more than that. After all, I too am a big fan of fairy tales but it’s crucial to have the facts right. Hopefully the archeology department will be able to iron out these issues as much as possible and make sure the correct information is given to the tourists as these places (not only Aukana and Res Vehera) are visited by hundreds and thousands of tourists both local and foreigners.

Does anyone have a better theory or can anyone give us some concrete evidence please?

Kala Wewa

We got back in the tuk-tuk and returned to the bus stop at Aukana to catch a bus to Kekirawa. Having thanked Niroshan for his help, guidance and patience I got in the bus. We went along the bund of the Kala Wewa that was looking appealing. The distance hills, thick clouds, blue skies and the still water waved at me. Fortunately the driver stopped the bus on the bund and got talking to another fellow bus driver. I got the opportunity and jumped out of the bus and took a few pictures before he went away. However it was not enough for me.

As we went further up, I could see Ritigala rising majestically into the sky. I wanted to get down and walk along the bund not missing a thing but I simply couldn’t afford it. There was more to see and I was way behind the schedule. Well, just check the pictures below and tell me if you would have felt the same way.

The bus stopped

The bus stopped

And I jumped out

And I jumped out

Took this

Took this

And this

And this

Ritigala in the distance

Ritigala in the distance

Before getting back into the bus

Before getting back into the bus

I called Daya who had been waiting for me. There was a very special place to go see. It is not only very special but also very much unknown to the outside world. Even the people live in the same village so close to this are not aware of it. I’m afraid; you won’t get to read about it in this report. Now don’t groan and start complaining. As it’s really special and so valuable, I’ve decided to unveil in the next report. So if you’re reading it now, you can expect that hopefully within a week or two. So I’ll jump straight to Daya’s place where I spent the night before the big day. Remember, it was one of the best days in my life and one of the best journeys but still not better than Lakegala.

We arrived at Keeriyagaswewa when the dark was falling. One of Daya’s friends called Tissa (not the one I went to see the archeological site last time) had caught some fish in the Kaluebe tank in the next village and suggested we go pick them. He had caught them in the morning and had put them in the water attached to a string to stop them rotting. See I keep things learning every day. If you’re to preserve fish after catching them, just put them back in the water after tied to a string. However only a limited number of hours you can keep them safe, probably up to 12-18 hours. These fish strings cost around Rs. 200/- at the current rate and has 6-8 fish weighing between 1-1.5kg.

We then arrived at the house and while Daya’s wife was busy cooking,  I took a bath. Most of the paddy fields have been re-ploughed and sowed after the floods and harvested too. However there were still many fields with ripening paddy still to be harvested. I saw many tree houses where the farmers kept watch at night on their paddy fields from the elephants. The jumbos present another threat to their crops as they keep coming to destroy them. Well this is a problem in most of the country from south to the north where quickly vanishing forests make the jumbos homeless forcing them to come to the villages to find food. Can’t say I blame the poor fellows. When I’m writing this, it shows on news that many jumbos coming to the garbage dumping ground in Hingurakgoda closer to the Kaudulla National Park. There is even a tusker among them. They will either die of food poisoning or get killed by some wicked people, especially the poor tusker. Nobody seems to do anything about it and the jumbos keep chasing the garbage trucks until they dump the loads.

Despite the grievances of the farmers I felt elated at the prospect of seeing some elephants in the night. I love watching the jumbos. Even last time I was without luck and was hopeful having seen the tree houses. Daya, Chandi (another of his friends) and I went for a walk along the road with torches that were turned off looking for the elephants. On the way we talked to a couple of people staying up the tree houses keeping a close vigil. We heard couple of elephant crackers going off but most of the time farmers just light them even before seeing the elephants, probably just to give a warning if they are nearby. All of a sudden we heard the roar of them in the tank most likely having a late bath. We couldn’t get towards the tank so returned home for a sumptuous meal with tank fish.

After the meal, we stayed up for another hour or so hoping to see a jumbo but my luck was not in this time either. So we went to sleep asking to be woken if any jumbo came in the night. No jumbo appeared as if sensing my arrival. They had come regularly over the past days but today was taking a break. Chandi joked saying I should come and stay until the harvesting stage so that jumbos will stay away. I went into a dreamless sleep hoping for clear weather the following day. Now you too get some rest coz tomorrow there’s plenty to do.

Day 02

I woke up as the first rays of the morning falling on the trees and the gravel roads. I was hoping for some mist but none to be had. Fortunately the unbearable heat was not there in the night and I slept like a baby. The typical noises of the forest could be heard. There were birds chirping, wind rustling the leaves, peacocks making their unpleasant deep noises and bees humming on their way to juicy flowers. I would have loved to stay like that listening to all this but there was plenty to do with very little time. Time seems to fly when I go sightseeing. I reluctantly flexed my muscles and commanded the limbs to start cracking.

Daya’s son and daughter had already got up and were ready to go to school. Unfortunately he still hasn’t got electricity in his house and even the house is barely enough for them to live. You know what I’m hinting at, don’t you? It’d be a real noble thing to help him complete the house and obtain electricity. So if you come across any organization that is looking for some charity work, they can’t go wrong with helping them. It’d be a very worthy cause.

I got up and did the usual chores while the sun climbed up the Ritigala. We sent a message to Tissa (my partner in the last journey) to come in the morning for the day’s schedule. Till then I had sometime to explore the surrounding areas. Grabbing the opportunity, I walked along the gravel road taking in the scenery breathing the fresh air coming from Ritigala kissing the paddy fields and the tanks on the way. Some fields had already been harvested while some still were not ready. The harvested fields looked brownish yellow with dried up clay sticking to the roots. Others had the lush green in many shades. Bunches of grains were bending towards the earth feeling the weight of the ripening seeds. Water gurgled through the tiny gaps making bubbles in places. There was a motorbike left at the base of a tree house. Nevertheless the house was empty. The farmers had apparently gone home after a sleepless night.

The Ritigala mountain range looked absolutely stunning against a blue and white sky. The light green paddy fields in the foreground added the flavor while the dark green on the mountain itself blended into the setting. It wasn’t all, there were a few exposed rocky sections in the mountain giving charcoal grey, black and some shades of the peach to the picture. What more can I say? It’s really pleasing to the eye and you would never get enough of looking at this beauty. Well, I was ready to get to the highest point that day but don’t you worry coz I had all the means to achieve that. So don’t get anxious and let’s go experience what it is like to be on the top of the kingdom of tanks. But before we go, I gotta go get some breakfast in me. I heard Daya’s wife saying there was tank fish left from the last night. Now don’t be jealous and go have your meals and enjoy the pictures of my morning stroll.

Gosh, what a breakfast! All I need is a mat under the shade of the tamarind tree to digest the meal. Unfortunately I ain’t got that luxury coz I can hear you complaining. But we’re not going up yet. Lolz, I’d have loved to see your face after the last sentence. You think I’d been ranting about it all this time just for the hell of it, don’t you? Please bear with me for a little while longer and I promise you won’t be disappointed. Would you like to go see the Keeriyagaswewa tank full of water? Last time it was nearly empty and I wanted to go see the transformation after the rains. So Daya and I took the tuk-tuk and went for a drive. After a few minutes we arrived at the foot of the bund and parked the vehicle.

The area was all covered with paddy fields and on almost every tree which is there in the middle of them had a tree house for the farmers to keep watch. We climbed up to see the tank and gosh, what a difference. It was full to the brim with beautiful white lotuses rising from the water towards the sun while the leaves spread out around them on the surface. Not only that, above the water surface which was making tiny waves in the wind, Ritigala looked beautiful than ever. This was a dream of every photographer, painter and film director. I just couldn’t drag myself away despite numerous warnings by Daya about getting late. Finally I gave in and we got back in the tuk-tuk coz my destiny was calling me.

Good morning

Good morning

Left most part

Left most part

My target

My target

Probably had a quarrel last night

Probably had a quarrel last night

Endless paddy fields

Endless paddy fields

Nice combination

Nice combination

"Maduruwa" bike

“Maduruwa” bike

Dusty roads

Dusty roads

Beautiful range

Beautiful range

Some harvest for the hard-working farmers

Some harvest for the hard-working farmers

Will take some time before the harvest

Will take some time before the harvest

This is nearly ready, two more weeks

This is nearly ready, two more weeks

A meeting?

A meeting?

Equal gap

Equal gap

Another watch hut

Another watch hut

See the colors bending nicely?

See the colors bending nicely?

Now the contrast

Now the contrast

Hey buddy!

Hey buddy!

Salivating, ain't it?

Salivating, ain’t it?

Kept bumping into them

Kept bumping into them

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Ferocious

Ferocious

Another one

Another one

Look at the silhouette

Look at the silhouette

At the Keeriyagaswewe Tank

At the Keeriyagaswewe Tank

A sight worth seeing again and again

A sight worth seeing again and again

Last time it was completely dry

Last time it was completely dry

Good looking

Good looking

Couple with a baby to be born soon

Couple with a baby to be born soon

Harvested paddy fields

Harvested paddy fields

Many huts all around

Many huts all around

Ok, now let's head to the dream

Ok, now let’s head to the dream

The Dream Hike

Tissa came in and we went to the archeological site some 2km away. The tree covered road was cool and it was around 9am when we arrived and started our hike after the necessary paperwork and official matters. Already there was a large group of local tourists roaming around and I was grateful for my previous visit which gave me all the freedom to take pictures without having to worry about people moving about. We went on to the target even though the journey was strenuous and tested our rather my bones and muscles. I don’t think I would ever cease to be amazed by the ingenuity of our ancestors. Especially what you would see in Ritigala. This must be categorized as one of the seven wonders. What they had built in Ritigala making that rocky mountain self-sufficient and self-reliant is beyond any imagination. I know I have already given a big chunk of my photo collection for you in the last trip but lemme give a bit more coz it’s worth seeing them again and again and again.

Well afterwards it was all about the jungle and we saw trees and plants grow in Ritigala which are unique to other environmental conditions such as Horton Plains, Sri Pada and Knuckles. That is why Ritigala was declared a Strict Nature Reserve (SNR). Only three of them exist in the country and I’ll let you find out the other two if possible. Until then without further delay I’ll let you enjoy the pictures of our laborious hike uphill. After the pictures, I’m gonna jump once again and get to the observation point little below the summit.

Ok, now we were about to get up to a place with a beautiful view. This reminded me of the Una Kanda as it too was similar to this point and gave a similar view but a little lower. I did a short documentary and we continued our way uphill. The final push brought us to a somewhat flat wooded area. There is ample room to move between the trees unlike the thick and impassable areas of Sri Pada and Knuckles. We saw a small toilet-sized cement and brick structure and a cable ran from it to a nearby pole which was a failed attempt by the officials to use it as a signal tower. The summit is a larger rock about 20ft high and closer to 50ft in diameter and a circumference of well over 100ft. Very much similar to the Saradiyel Rock or the summit of Alagalla I guess. I’m yet to visit any of those mountains. I know what you think and yeah I too feel ashamed of myself for not doing anything about it.

Archaeological office

Archaeological office

Let's make a move

Let’s make a move

Banda Wewa

Banda Wewa

Hallmark steps

Hallmark steps

First Stone Bridge

First Stone Bridge

Many ruins like this

Many ruins like this

Hundreds of Monks had walked along these paths

Hundreds of Monks had walked along these paths

Entering the footpath

Entering the footpath

Here we go

Here we go

Bed and Pillow

Bed and Pillow

Drainage lines made of stone

Drainage lines made of stone

Hidden ruins

Hidden ruins

All over the forest

All over the forest

Almost stepped on the fellow

Almost stepped on the fellow

Still not so steep

Still not so steep

Seeking the much needed sunlight

Seeking the much needed sunlight

Just look at that

Just look at that

Now the difficult terrain

Now the difficult terrain

Tough places to go past

Tough places to go past

Circling the boulders and trees

Circling the boulders and trees

It was very calm and serene inside

It was very calm and serene inside

Huge one, probably attacked by the eagles

Huge one, probably attacked by the eagles

Just look at the precision making

Just look at the precision making

Sambar is responsible for these

Sambar is responsible for these

Final stretch

Final stretch

Very tough terrain

Very tough terrain

Look at the creeper

Look at the creeper

First observation point

First observation point

Stretch into miles and miles

Stretch into miles and miles

Not edible

Not edible

Typical upcountry forest

Typical upcountry forest

"Balu Dan", a plant found in Knuckles and Sri Pada

“Balu Dan”, a plant found in Knuckles and Sri Pada

This tree is covering the rock with its roots

This tree is covering the rock with its roots

Wana Raja, again seen on Sri Pada mainly

Wana Raja, again seen on Sri Pada mainly

Skeleton bodies

Skeleton bodies

The small structure with the signal tower

The small structure with the signal tower

There it is now abandoned

There it is now abandoned

Oh, hello!

Oh, hello!

Hi cutie!

Hi cutie!

We carefully conquered the rock which is not that big a deal if it’s not wet. Arriving on the summit is an experience which will be with me forever and ever. There is a pole about 20ft high supported by rocks with a flag flying from it symbolizing the name “Kodi Kanda” or “Kodi Gala”. It gave a 360-degree view which is also a very rare thing as many summits don’t have that possibility. One major exception is the Sri Pada that gives the best 360-degree view in Sri Lanka, probably the whole world. No wonder Lord Buddha chose it to leave his sacred footprint.

Ok, let’s look around and see what we can see. Tissa is gonna help us. Here we go, there’s Habarana side over the extreme left (when looking at the range from Keeriyagaswewa) end of the range. Moving to the right now, there’s Kala Wewa in the distance. Then we’ll follow the Galenbindunuwewa-Kahatagasdigiliya road. Towards the right end of the range is the Anuradhapura area. There’s Ruwanweli Maha Seya if we’re not mistaken. To the left of her is Thuparamaya and to the right some way away is Mihintale. Ok then let’s cross the right edge of the range. There is Hurulu Wewa in the distance and closer to the mountain is Ganewelpola town. About just below us is Keeriyagaswewa tank and the wildlife office. We could see the road running from there to the base of the mountain. Then going further is Minneriya and Kaudulla.

Yeah you can see all that and much more. The sun took pity on his children and hid behind a cloud giving us the much needed shade. We spent closer to three quarters of an hour enjoying the scenery, savoring the achievement and taking dozens of pictures. Well, all good things come to an end and my journey too had to come to a conclusion. Sadly we bid farewell to this unique and beautiful lady thanking her for putting up with us. This was a dream come true and I’m gonna treasure it till the end of my life. We started our descend and made quick progress.

By 1.30pm we were on the solid ground when there was a big commotion near the office. There were a couple of busloads of school children waiting to go see the place. We were lucky to have been inside before they went in.

The final obstacle, gotta be very careful

The final obstacle, gotta be very careful

Here's the summit

Here’s the summit

Now the endless views

Now the endless views

Kala Wewa in the far

Kala Wewa in the far

Towards Habarana

Towards Habarana

Mihintale and Ruwanweliseya to the right and in the distance, don't think you can see it

Mihintale and Ruwanweliseya to the right and in the distance, don’t think you can see it

Rest of the range

Rest of the range

The other end of the top part

The other end of the top part

No wonder the North Central is called the Kingdom of Tanks

No wonder the North Central is called the Kingdom of Tanks

The lone traveler

The lone traveller

The 360-degree view

The 360-degree view

Beautiful patterns

Beautiful patterns

Well, time to go

Well, time to go

Climbing down carefully

Climbing down carefully

Passing the same obstacles

Passing the same obstacles

Oh, hi!

Oh, hi!

Hmmm?

Hmmm?

Looks like an alien

Looks like an alien

Climbing down with the help of a creeper

Climbing down with the help of a creeper

Here it is

Here it is

Plenty of creepers around

Plenty of creepers around

Origin of a water stream. This must feed many villagers on the way

Origin of a water stream. This must feed many villagers on the way

Patterns

Patterns

Back on somewhat flat area

Back on somewhat flat area

Mushy mushrooms

Mushy mushrooms

We saw it going up so did you

We saw it going up so did you

Ruins

Ruins

First thought: "Rock Python"

First thought: “Rock Python”

Could be the same fella

Could be the same fella

An ancient pond now being used to pump water to the archaeological site below

An ancient pond now being used to pump water to the archaeological site below

Here it is

Here it is

Rocky walls

Rocky walls

Split rock

Split rock

Almost finished the journey

Almost finished the journey

Inside the Library

Inside the Library

See the whole to the left?

See the hole to the left?

You saw this in the last report

You saw this in the last report

Another stone bridge

Another stone bridge

See the interlocking side railings?

See the interlocking side railings?

Endless path

Endless path

Many ruins

Many ruins

Going back

Going back

No one there

No one there

Perfectly designed

Perfectly designed

Near the Banda Wewa

Near the Banda Wewa

Ok, time to call it a day and head home

Ok, time to call it a day and head home

Having arrived at Daya’s place we sat for a quick lunch. Then bidding farewell to everyone, Daya gave me a lift to the Moragoda junction where I took a bus to Kekirawa. Fortunately there was a Colombo bus but the stretch between Dambulla and Kandy road was a pain to cross. It’s still under construction and the heavy rains made going slower than walking. Ibbagamuwa, Malsiripura and other towns nearby were under more than a foot of water. After a slow and painful could of hours we reached Kandy road then Colombo along it by 9.30pm.

Well folks, are you tired after the marathon? I’m not and gonna do another right after but not today. You can join me later, another day.

Hope you enjoyed our trip together and would love to go see the secret treasure I promised earlier. Be patient coz next report is gonna be all about it.

But, before you go, there are a few Panos for you to look at.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Until then, take care and keep traveling. This is Sri signing off for now.

Ciao…

Sri,


Unearthing an Inestimable Treasure – Samadhi Buddha of Divulwewa…

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Year and Month 1 Apr, 2015
Number of Days 1
Crew Two Locals from Keeriyagaswewa (Daya & Tissa) and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Bus and Tuk-Tuk
Activities Archeology, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo->Aukana->Kekirawa->Divulwewa via Ganewelpola->Moragoda->Galen Bindunuwewa and Komarikawala.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • This is not known by many people even the villagers around the archeological site. So the intention is to create awareness and tempt you to visit this often.
    • You can take public transport to reach the site or call Daya (071-119138 or 072-9740158) for a tuk-tuk ride.
    • There are a few other villages called Divulwewa and don’t get confused with them.
    • From Kekirawa it’s 44km to Divulwewa and from Ganelwelpola it’s 37km along the Galenbindunuwewa-Hamillewa Road. (B133)
    • Thanks to Amazing Lanka for their brief article on this.
    • Very special thanks to the Archeological Officials onsite for their invaluable help and insight.
    • Go see these unknown beauties whenever possible coz it helps create awareness and keep the treasure hunters and other rascals away.
    • Help protect the Mother Nature.
    • Hats off to the archaeological officials, especially working at remote areas, for their dedication to protect and safeguard our heritage. They are working with bare minimal and hopefully the authorities will be able to provide them with more manpower, equipment and other necessities to restore, protect and unearth these ancient wonders of our proud ancestors.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hello everyone! Hope you have got a couple of hours with nothing urgent coz I would like to take you to a very special archeological site which is not so popular and known. Ok, let’s get down to business straight away.

I’ll begin with a feeble question. “Do you know the Samadhi Statue?” Well I know now you’re getting worked up coz if there was a dumb question, this is it. But before you close the computer and go away seething with rage, give me a few seconds to explain myself. Another question: “Where is the Samadhi Statue you know located?”. A little better but still silly, ain’t it? You would proudly say in Anuradhapura. Well most of the ancient great statues are in Anuradhapura & Polonnaruwa so even if you didn’t know, a wild guess would have been enough. You’re right absolutely. The great Samadhi Statue that emanates so much serenity, peace and compassion is in Anuradhapura and to be more precise at Mahamevuna Uyana.

I don’t think there is another greater statue that shows the noble qualities of the greatest philosopher to have walked on this earth, the Lord Buddha. I’m sure most of you have been to this amazing creation by our great ancestors. I keep saying that they couldn’t have been ordinary human beings but super humans who could do virtually anything. Well even nowadays we have supermen but all they do is destroy the wonderful things our ancestors created. One such example is the robbery of the National Museum when one superman called Kangatta managed all alone to lift a lorry load of things from the National Museum close to a High Security Zone. His spiritual powers were such he knew exactly when the CCTV cameras would be out of order. Maybe he even managed to make them redundant with his powers. The superman we knew as kids would have committed suicide feeling ashamed of himself after our superman’s work. Ok, I admit that I’m feeling bitter about the brutal way they robbed our National Museum but who wouldn’t?

Leaving it aside for the time being (you can bet your last penny you would hear my bitterness in the future) let’s move on. The Samadhi Buddha we know or popular among the majority of the crowd is simply an artwork with impeccable precision. What would you say if I told you that there is a similar or even a twin statue in Anuradhapura but more than 50km to the northeast in a small village known as Divulwewa? There could be a few people who may have heard about this or even visited the site but majority of you wouldn’t have thought about a twin Samadhi Statue, would you? Well lemme tell you there is one and you are coming with me. I was at Aukana after visiting the Res Vehera with Niroshan. Simple click on the link will take you to that report. Then I called Daya and told him that I was leaving. The time was past 1.30pm and I had more than 50km to go see this wonderful creation.

I took a Kekirawa bus (don’t expect me to tell or show you the pics of Kala Wewa once again) and got there sooner than expected. Daya had gone home having waited for me the whole morning so I had to take another bus and meet him halfway through. Getting into a Galenbindunuwewa bus, i bought a ticket for Rs. 38/- to Moragoda Junction. Surprisingly I was given the 2-rupee balance without a mega teledrama. By the way, have you noticed the number of villages in the North Central which has “Wewa” to the end of their name? It almost acts like a suffix. You know suffixes, don’t you? If you don’t, just type the word “suffix” on Google and press enter. You’ll be in safe hands.

It’s 19km from Kekirawa to Moragoda (Rs. 2/- per km). I won’t bother describing how gorgeous Ritigala looked in the distance. Daya was waiting when I arrived with a friend of him, Tissa (not the one who went hiking with me). Even in my last visit I had told Daya about the Divulwewa Samadhi Buddha but we couldn’t do anything due to the heavy rains. Therefore I was determined to make it happen this time come rain or shine. We drove on along the Galenbindunuwewa-Hamillewa (gosh, the length of their names) B133 road. Still even Daya had no clue about what we were going to see however he knew someone working at the archeological site there. We were going to meet him and get the details. We drove past Hurulu Wewa and then Yakalla to Galenbindunuwewa (thanks for the ctrl+C option). Then continued towards Hamillewa until we arrived at that person’s place.

Daya went to check if he was there and our luck held. He was at home and we got the directions and continued but not before his stern piece of advice, “you can’t take pictures there, ok?”. I just kept quiet and looked at him passively. We passed 21st Colony and asked for directions but nobody knew about a Samadhi statue but thankfully they knew there was an archeological site in Divulwewa. Passing Punchi Halmillewa we checked the directions once again but they still didn’t know about a Samadhi statue yet informed us that there’s a typical archeological sign on the main road. Feeling depressed we kept a look out for this archeological sign as it was the only thing we had. In the distance I saw the signature black sign on the right hand bank of the road but pointing to our left and it that stated “Divulwewa Archeological Site” – 250m.

I was so happy and when we checked with a group of people having a chat at a shop, they said this was the Komarikawala Junction. This is just after the 35th km post, about 400m passing it. We turned to the left and alas, as stated we could see an archeological site within a very short distance. Well done folks for getting the distance correct. It’s 27km from Moragoda junction to Divulwewa. All in all, there’s roughly 44-46km from Kekirawa.  There are a couple of villages called Divulwewa so be careful when you travel. The most misleading on is the Aluth Divulwewa in the vicinity of Galenbindunuwewa. There are a couple more in Medawachchiya as well. There is a gate to the archeological site but was closed and my heart skipped a beat. Further down next to the site is a temple and we went into that. There was someone coming out of the temple and we told him our purpose. He turned out to be an official of the archeological office and happily agreed to show us the place. He is one of those sensible type of officials who doesn’t stick to the rules like some holy book and not ready to be flexible. I’ve met similar practical people in places such as Nalanda Gedige, Jaffna Museum, Berandi Kovil etc. Even the air force officer who was at the Piduruthalagala summit was one such guy.

The structure that houses the Samadhi Buddha was nearby and from the distance we could see the resemblance. There was another archeological officer mowing the courtyard with a hoe. I ran to the front of the building and stopped in midair when I saw this majestic thing. The most notable thing being the broken nose from the bridge towards the nostrils. Except that this resembled the Samadhi Buddha we know at Mahamewna Uyana. I forgot all about the warning that was given by the other officer not taking any pictures and started shooting away. The one cleaning the garden came and stood watching us but didn’t say a word. I then remembered the warning and looked at the officers sheepishly hoping they wouldn’t fly off the handle coz there were many incidents like that as well in the past. They didn’t utter a word, instead looked at me, rather us, surprisingly as if they couldn’t believe our presence.

Finally, when I had completed my photo taking all around the statue and did my worships, the older one said: “I’d never have allowed anyone to take pictures but the moment I saw you, I knew you were genuinely interested in this. So I kept quiet.” Well, I don’t think I could have had a better compliment. Then he asked the younger officer to show us around. The complex is more than an acre in size (well it could be more but the area we could see was something like that) with remains of  more than half a dozen prominent foundations of ancient buildings such as Preaching Hall, Meditation Chambers, Monks’ Dwellings and a well-planned Kitchen. In addition to them, one striking feature among the ruins is what is believed to have been a library on stone pillars (Tam Pita).

Well turning back to the statue, to be honest I really don’t have recollections of visiting the original Samadhi Buddha in A’Pura Mahamevuna Uyana. I’ve been there in my school days but we had other things in our minds than admiring the craftsmanship of our great grandfathers. It’s vital for a country’s survival, especially to safeguard a country’s heritage, to educate the younger generation properly. They must be taught the history, not as a subject that they have to pass in the exams, but as a part of their lives. Most kids get bored coz they think it’s an additional strain on their already overloaded subjects and hardly take a genuine interest. You gotta make it interesting and enjoyable so that they will love learning more and visiting even more. I’m sure all the parents who read me and Lakdasun will try to get their kids interested in things like this than John Cena, Ben 10 or any superficial characters. Teach them that our ancestors would have had John Cena for breakfast and Ben 10 for dessert. No ordinary folks could have built things like these so tell them that the USA or the rest of the world has only one superman but we’d had many thousands.

However from what I’ve seen and heard from the officials on site, this Samadhi Buddha is more prominent in shape than the original one. I’m referring to the A’Pura one as the original coz it’s the most popular but this one could well be the original as the age is not properly measured. That is one but a major weakness of our archeologists and the department. Not being able to do a thorough analysis and get the details like these spot on. Maybe we have too many to check but we must do them as much as possible and as soon as we can. This Samadhi Buddha looks more muscular than the original version. Other than that, this could be a bit bigger but I couldn’t be sure. The broken nose somewhat made this less appealing than the other but the noble qualities of the Lord Buddha portrayed just the same.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

 

Here we are

Here we are

The structure reconstructed by the archaeological officers

The structure reconstructed by the archaeological officers

Where the Samadhi Buddha resides

Where the Samadhi Buddha resides

Amazing, let’s go in

Amazing, let’s go in

What do you think?

What do you think?

If if wasn't for the broken nose, almost a carbon copy of the A'Pura one

If if wasn’t for the broken nose, almost a carbon copy of the A’Pura one

Such impeccable craftmanship

Such impeccable craftsmanship

From the side, broken nose is more prominent

From the side, broken nose is more prominent

Carved out of Chandrakanthi Stone

Carved out of Chandrakanthi Stone

This is newly put together by those officers

This is newly put together by those officers

Serene looking

Serene looking

Closer, pity the nose is broken

Closer, pity the nose is broken

The structure

The structure

Other side

Other side

The Legend

Lemme tell you how this statue was located and it’s a folklore. The folklores are ok so long as they don’t contradict the real thing. As we know very little about this statue, we have to depend on things like that.

“This statue had been covered by a huge molehill when it was found by a group of people roaming the area which used to have been a thick forest. They had seen the head popping out of the top of the hill and found this after breaking the hard earth crust surrounding it. To make matters worse, there had been a Nuga Tree which the statue was leaned on. To get the statue and keep it somewhere safe they had to cut the tree.

Usually it’s believed that there are spirits or the way the villagers put it, gods living on trees like Nuga. So they decided to first ask whoever living (if there was) on the tree to leave so that they could cut it. Having done the rituals and promising to come back the following day to cut it and clear the statue, they had left. When they came prepared the following day, they had found a herd of elephants in the vicinity. They went to cut the tree after they had left and what they saw amazed them to no end.

The Nuga tree had been uprooted and thrown away by the elephants making their job easier. They had then cleaned the statue and started worshipping it.”

Well I asked how the nose was broken but the officer informed it was just like that when they came to the possession of it. It might have been broken when this was being unearthed or even after. A real pity. Ok, enough of my descriptions now go enjoy the pictures.

Rest of the Site

The Divulwewa Monastery is believed to have housed hundreds of monks within its environs during Anuradhapura period. There is a small complex of at least three structures but only the red brick foundations are visible. There were a few stone pillars in one of them. Beyond that towards the entrance was the biggest of the foundations. It is easily 40’X20′ and believed to be a preaching hall. The rest of the land is covered in many trees. However we saw another two more separate foundations further away from the Samadhi statue. They had stone steps leading up to the base and a few stone pillars as well. The officer then took us what believed to be the kitchen. The most distinguished feature is the large stone sink. There was the bottom of it was there but the cylindrical hole that lets water out was clearly visible. Not only that, the carved stone drain leading away from it sealed the fact.

It’d been unearthed by the archeological department and now preserved as best as their poor budget allows. Well this is the whole thing you can see at a glance. Our guide cum archeology officer then said that there’s a theory this statue was built somewhere else and brought here. However there is one thing that can contradict the theory. It’s nothing much but a rocky basin like thing which was believed to have been used to sharpen the tools that used to carve the statue. Well, you might remember the stone slab (Kadu Ge Gala) at Vijithapura temple that was apparently used by the King Dutugemunu’s army to sharpen their swords. It looks well worn out having used excessively. The stone basin like thing could be something like that but used to create a magnificent statue.

Archeological officers further revealed that there is a burial ground of the monks who lived here. It is located next to the monastery grounds where ashes of dead monks have been interred and covered with a stone slab. I wanted to go see it but due to the rains, it’d turned into a small tank leaving nothing much to see so we had to perish the thought. If you happen to visit during the dry season, do take a look and I’m planning to go see it if the time permits and the opportunity arises. It was getting late and we had to leave coz there were close to 30km for us to travel to reach Daya’s place. Tissa and Daya were very pleased with what we saw and kept repeating this was worth seeing again and again. They even felt a bit ashamed for being unaware of this great statue. As we were talking about protecting these kinda things from treasure hunters and vandals, our friendly officer invited us to see something heart breaking. Let’s go see what it is, shall we?

Surrounding remains of many buildings

Surrounding remains of many buildings

Can see a bottom of a Pun Kalasa below

Can see a bottom of a Pun Kalasa below

Urinal

Urinal

The main complex

The main complex

Very big

Very big

Many more like this

Many more like this

We walked around

We walked around

Entering one complex

Entering one complex

Here it is

Here it is

And another

And another

Shady paths leading to many other structures

Shady paths leading to many other structures

Here we go

Here we go

Tampita Viharaya

Tampita Viharaya

There's another at the end

There’s another at the end

Oh here it is

Oh here it is

Moonstone is almost gone

Moonstone is almost gone

Full pic

Full pic

Going back

Going back

Buddha housing building

Buddha housing building

Here's the believed kitchen

Here’s the believed kitchen

The floor dug out of the earth

The floor dug out of the earth

The zinc I told you about

The zinc I told you about

This is similar to Kadu Ge Gala at Vijithapura but here it's the tools that were sharpened which they believe used to create the statue

This is similar to Kadu Ge Gala at Vijithapura but here it’s the tools that were sharpened which they believe used to create the statue

The main building once again

The main building once again

Time to go but something else to show you

Time to go but something else to show you

Ignorance Causes Disasters

He showed us an ancient stone which had used as a flower stand. It is about 15’X4′ and had a white sticker pasted on the face which had been torn in places. Looking at closer we could see the black letters which read as “Eethalwetunuwewa Muslim School”. This Eethalwetunuwewa Muslim Village is located about 15km from the Divulwewa Monastery. How they came about this is still a mystery but initially they had carved the name on the face but apparently realizing that it was a wrong thing, had tried to cover the stone face with a sticker with their name, probably hoping to cover the stony surface. What kinda ignorant and heartless devils those buggers have been?

Thankfully but rather late, someone had run 119 and the police had found the flower stand destroyed beyond any restoration. I’m sure people like these will rot in hell.

Here the sheer stupidity and ignorance

Here the sheer stupidity and ignorance

We heard the same story when we visited Muhudu Maha Viharaya in 2011. The monk said that he was under threat by the Muslim villagers around the temple and claimed most of the land belonging to the temple had been taken over by them by force while our authorities looked the other way. He said that a few Muslim politicians had encouraged the people to take them over while using their power to keep police at bay. A very much similar thing happening in Wilpattu these days as we all know. He had received many death threats asking to leave the temple but stayed nevertheless. There was a police officer based at the temple 24/7 but nothing else had been done to reclaim the archaeological site or safeguard the ruins.

Apparently most of the rocky pillars and slabs were in the nearby houses being used for various things such as stepping stones. We in fact saw two such houses with at least four such items (one had two slabs whereas the other had two large pillars). They even had blocked the road by covering it completely with mats full of paddy and when asked the way, simply said that there was no such place in the area and asked us not to go beyond the mats. We then turned around to the town and got the directions from a cop who said that it was a common issue which they could do very little. Guess what, we went back and drove over the mats full of grains and arrived at the temple.

A similar thing has happened in Kadurugoda and the army has been posted to protect the place. Even that archaeological site had lost around half of its original landmass. How many more places like those are under threat and being destroyed as we speak. It’s a real pity that we can’t protect our heritage from extremists like these. They need to be punished regardless of the political influence, race or religion before it’s too late. Sinhalese, Tamils, Muslims and all the others have a duty to help protect our heritage coz they all are Sri Lankans. I guess the archaeological department needs to be given more manpower, equipment, authority and the security forces’ assistance to protect these kinda sites.

A Sincere Apology and Heartfelt Gratitude for the Dedicated Archeology Officers

Well, I admit that I had a very low opinion on the archeology department. Especially their inability to protect the archeological sites in the country. However recently, I’ve seen, met and talked to quite a few officials who are really dedicated to their duty. It’s a real sad thing to see how much they have to do with the bare minimum support. I guess it’s a miracle we have these archeological sites to go see considering how understaffed and poorly equipped they really are. So guys, I apologize to those who take their job seriously and give 100% to protect our heritage, sincerely for criticizing you. Hats off to the hard work you put in which goes unnoticed and unheard. Thanks a lot for every good thing you’ve done so far and hope you will continue the good work to the future.

Hopefully you’ll get recognized and be given substantially support, both financially and structurally, to strengthen your efforts. It’s the responsibility of the government to provide you with all you need and wonder if it ever happens though.

On our way back

On our way back

Looking majestic

Looking majestic

See the royal pose

See the royal pose

Well, see you again

Well, see you again

Well, folks, I know it’s turned out to be a very long article in the end and I poured my heart out.

Hope, you learned something from this and will visit this place at the first opportunity.

This is Sri signing off with a bow.

P.S. If you go there in the future, you might be able to pick up a leaflet with the details (given in the first picture) and a picture of the Samadhi Buddha from the archaeological office. I thought it’d be useful for the travelers, especially the school kids, to have something like that as a souvenir.

You’ll find the motto below printed at the bottom of the leaflet and I think we must teach children just that so that they’ll safeguard things like these which have been left by our proud ancestors.

“This is Our Heritage.

Let’s Protect it as Eyes & Cherish as Life”

VESAK AT TRINCOMALEE 2015

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days Four
Crew 2 (Me and my better half)
Guides Dayananda at Tiriyaya, Thushan(07767061701) at Kayyankerni
Accommodation Sea view hotel Nilaweli
Transport Pajero
Activities Culture, Road trip, Archaeology, photography, Boat rides, Wild life
Weather Cloudy but no rains
Route D1 Chilaw -> Wariyapola -> Mao -> Kekirawa -> Habarana -> Kanthale  ->  Trincomalee ->  Nilaweli

D2  Trincomalee -> Tiriyaya -> Pulmude -> Gomarankadawala -> Mora wewa -> Trincomalee

D3 Trincomalee -> Mutur -> Thoppur -> Seruwawila -> Lankapatuna -> Verugal -> Vakare -> Kayyankerni -> returned back the same route

D4 Trincomalee -> Sampur -> Trincomalee Naval base -> Horowpathana -> Anuradhapura -> Puttalama -> Chilaw

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take lots of water( we drank plenty of bottled water)
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • To Visit Hoods tower museum and have a boat ride in a bay you need prior permission from the Naval base(a known contact could speed up the process)
  • There are boats to reach Lankapatuna (200/= per boat) if you reach there from Echalampattu. Alternatively you could visit via Thoppur
  • Knowing tamil is an added advantage
  • There is a short cut from Welgam wehera to Nilaweli bordering the tank
  • Marble beach is open to public during 8am to 6pm
  • Need prior permission from the IOC office to visit the oil tanks which Japanese bombed (we got it on that day)
  • Boat ride to Pigeon island was 2000/= (DWC cost 700/=)
  • Avoid long holidays or you would get frustrated

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Amila for arranging permission to get in to the naval base and NG for the guidance around Tiriyaya

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

 Map Day 1 &  4

Map Day 1 & 4

Map day 2

Map day 2

Map day 3

Map day 3

Places of interest

  • Kanthale ancient Sorouwa
  • Welgam wehera
  • Thissa Hermitage – Anandakulam
  • Ruins around Wilankulama lake
  • Fort Frederick
  • Koneshwaram kovil
  • Dogs grave
  • Hoods tower museum
  • Boat ride in Trinco bay
  • Japanese bombed oil tanks(tank farm)
  • War cemetery (WW2)
  • Gokanna RMV
  • Kanniya hot water wells
  • Marble beach
  • Sampur – Foul point
  • Mahaweli river delta
  • Nilaweli beach
  • Pigeon island
  • Kuchchaweli Pichcha mal viharaya
  • Tiriyaya Nagathambarani carving
  • Tiriyaya Giri hadu seya
  • Arisimale beach
  • Kokilai lagoon
  • Bakmeegama – Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya
  • Bakmeegama Shiva kovil
  • Pahala gama Archeology site
  • Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri/Medawachchiya
  • Unknown site at Tri/Medawachchiya
  • Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda
  • Ran giri ulpotha
  • Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya
  • Mora wewa – Gajaba lena
  • Mora wewa
  • Mora wewa – Kituluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya
  • Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama
  • Seruwawila RMV
  • Pashana pabbatha RMV
  • Lankapatuna
  • Black beach
  • Ruins at Kathiraweli
  • Kathiraweli pre historic cemetery
  • Verugal kovil
  • Kayyankerni ancient rock bridge and ruins
  • 58th mile post Dhageba
  • 40th post Gal kanda mountain range ruins

It was Vesak holidays and i wanted to visit some temples just like i did in 2013. Though I have been to Trinco as a kid I have not properly explored this region. so after some intensive planning with the aid of online and offline literature i was all set for this 2015 Vesak expedition. We knew that this was going to be a tough one especially with the extreme heat but we were up to the task. The added advantage was that every budhdhist temple was decorated for Vesak and it was easy to locate. The disadvantage was that it was too crowded since it was a long holiday.

1 Kanthale Sorouwa

So we left early on and while on the way to Trinco we did have a stop at Kanthale to appreciate the ancient sorouwa right by the side of the road. Since this would be a long report I would stick to the basic details..

Kanthale ancient sorouwwa

Kanthale ancient sorouwwa

Kanthale reservoir

Kanthale reservoir

2 Welgam wehera

To reach this historical location we had to take a short cut from A6 to A12 and proceed towards Mora wewa side and take another right hand turn. This site dates back to 2nd century. The bo tree was once attacked by a mortar and the mortar bomb never explored.

 

Welgam wehera

Welgam wehera

a restored building

a restored building

the statue of budhdha

the statue of budhdha

guard stone

guard stone

the sthupa

the sthupa

dancers seen on the outer wall of the sthupa

dancers seen on the outer wall of the sthupa

the historical tree which captured the motor bomb

the historical tree which captured the motor bomb

3 Kanniya Hot water springs

While reaching back towards Trincomalee one could also visit Kanniya hot water wells and Archaeology reserve. For more info refer this link

4 Tissa hermitage Anandakulama

Just before reaching Trincomalee one would note a unique mountain range and this rocky range harbors some ancient caves. We took the road in front of the provincial educational office which connected to A6. This modified temple is at the end of the lake bund. There are about 3 drip ledge caves close to the current temple but finding those was a challenge.

Anandakulama mountain range

Anandakulama mountain range

statue on the rock

statue on the rock

Anandakulama

Anandakulama

cave at anandakulama thissa hermitage

cave at anandakulama thissa hermitage

another cave

another cave

5 Ruins around Vilankulama

From Anandakulama we returned back to A6 and headed towards 6th mile post where a board saying Vilankulama could be found. There was a pagoda right in front of it on the opposite side of the road and been covered by Teak trees. There was another site close to the bund of the lake and to get to it we had to cross the road side paddy field. The sight of a dug up pagoda just made us feel bad.

Vilankulama

Vilankulama

the pagoda which is dug up at Vilankulama lake

the pagoda which is dug up at Vilankulama lake

another pagoda on the opposit side of the main road. there are few teak trees on it

another pagoda on the opposit side of the main road. there are few teak trees on it

6 World War 2 cemetery

Since it was lunch time we decided to head back to Trinco and have lunch. After having lunch we had to ride towards Nilaweli because there were no beach side hotels to accommodate us. On our way we noted the War cemetery right on the side of B424, few Km’s from Trinco. There were many graves belonging to different nationalities. We had to please ourselves by looking over the gate since it was locked.

War cemetery

War cemetery

all who lost their lives

all who lost their lives

7 Tank farm

After a struggle we did manage to find a reasonable place at Nilaweli beach. Though the surrounding area was crowded it didn’t bother us a bit. After having a small nap we took off towards Trinco. At China bay with a huge bend there was the IOC office where I got permission to visit the Japanese bombed Oil storage tanks. There are about 100 plus tanks and out of these only a hand few is been used. The ride through the forest was very interesting indeed.

Japanese bombed few oil tanks during WW2

Japanese bombed few oil tanks during WW2

bombed tank

bombed tank

inside a tank

inside a tank

used currently by IOC

used currently by IOC

8 Fort Frederick

We returned back to Trinco and halted our vehicle close to the beach though we could have driven in to the fort. Our main intentions were to enjoy the scenery and architecture of the fort. So the walk towards Koneshwaram was the best option. It is nice to see that many buildings are still in good condition thanks to the military. By the way people need to stay away from the Deer who live freely in its premises.

Fort Fedrick

Fort Fedrick

entrance

entrance

plenty of these guys

plenty of these guys

ancient buildings

ancient buildings

9 Dog’s grave

There are few graves close to the car park at Koneshwaram and the interesting thing is some of these belong to dogs.

Dogs grave

Dogs grave

 zoomed

zoomed

10 Koneshwaram Kovil

This is thought to be built by Elara. It also has counter parts like Ketheeshwaram and Munneshwaram at the western coast. This been located on the cliff on Trincomalee has a splendid view point. Out of all lovers leap provides a greater v

Koneshwaram kovil

Koneshwaram kovil

a huge statue

a huge statue

sacred

sacred

expecting blessings

expecting blessings

the drop

the drop

lovers leap point

lovers leap point

11 Gokanna RMV

Just before exiting the fort one could note a temple on the right side with a wonderful view towards Back Bay. This is a historically important site. There were ruins of a statue and a Asanagaraya too. For me the wooden carving of the Budhdha was the most fascinating sculpture.
After enjoying a lovely sun set we took off towards Nilaweli and on our way we came across a vegetarian restaurant close to Sri Lakshmi Narana kovil. This place was called Sri Vari Balaji restaurant. And we did pay a visit on the next two nights too. We loved the food at that place.

Gokanna RMV

Gokanna RMV

statue with the asanagaraya

statue with the asanagaraya

 ruins

ruins

wooden statue

wooden statue

boats at fishing harbour

boats at fishing harbour

dusk

dusk

Day two was all about Tiriyaya – Gomarankadawala route. This was going to be along one and most of the places we visited weren’t even in our to-do list. After enjoying a lovely sun rise at Nilaweli we took off towards Kuchchaveli.

12 Pichcha mal viharaya Kuchchaveli

At Kuchchaveli close to the main road there is an interesting archeology site which everyone needs to visit. There are scattered ruins close to the police station and a small museum too. Main site is a small mountain close to the shore where a pagoda could be found on it. Right at the beginning of the stair way there is a fallen rock with a unique carving of 16 pagodas and an inscription.

room view at Nilaweli

room view at Nilaweli

wow

wow

here she comes

here she comes

lovely

lovely

and another beauty

and another beauty

on the way to Tiriyayaya

on the way to Tiriyayaya

Kuchchaweli historical site

Kuchchaweli historical site

view from the temple

view from the temple

silent shores

silent shores

the pagoda

the pagoda

very very unique

very very unique

these were found at this site

these were found at this site

13 Nagathambarani – Cobra head carving

Ah the number one attraction of the day. We headed towards Tiriyaya and stopped at 47/1 culvert in front of Dayananda’s house and after having a long chat we took off towards Valathamalay mountain (mountain is seen between 49km and 50km post). After a small climb we did come across the cobra carving. And it was a big wow for us. The adjoining cave had a rocky bed and a concaved carving on its roof so one could easily accommodate his head while meditating. For detailed information refer this report from NG. We left Dayanandas place after saying good bye to Him and his wife. We did promise to visit them in near future too.  (  8°53’30.35″N  80°59’52.57″E)

Valathamalay mountain

Valathamalay mountain

guiding us along the ancient pond

guiding us along the ancient pond

the cave and the carving

the cave and the carving

 the goddess??

the goddess??

what a beauty... ah yes this is in the deep forest

what a beauty… ah yes this is in the deep forest

lovely

lovely

governmant servants engaged in illegal sand mining at yan oya

government servants engaged in illegal sand mining at yan oya

kora kaha

kora kaha

Mangroves

Mangroves

Yan oya

Yan oya

14 Arisimale beach

Ah next we took off towards Pulmude and just before Pulmude we took a right turn and reached the navy camp where an archeology site could be found. After a 500m walk we reached this small bay called Arisimale where the sand looks like “samba” rice. My guess is that this unique geographical location must have caused to filter big sand particles in to this bay.

 ah here it is

ah here it is

At Arisimale beach

At Arisimale beach

just like samba rice

just like samba rice

small bay at arisimale with unique sand

small bay at arisimale with unique sand

close up

close up

15 Kokilai lagoon

From Pulmude we took the lagoon road and reached the fishing village to have a glimpse of Kokilai bird life.

Fishing village at Kokilai

Fishing village at Kokilai

bird life at Kokilai

bird life at Kokilai

where the lagoon opens up to the ocean

where the lagoon opens up to the ocean

at Kokilai

at Kokilai

16 Giri hadu seya

This Dhageba was built while Buddha was a live and his “Kesha dathu” is been preserved in this pagoda. This blessed Pagoda was done by Thapassu Balluka merchants. There were two caves, two inscriptions and yes a long rocky bridge. When we were at the summit it was close to 12pm and walking around the pagoda was more of a run. From Tiriyaya we took off towards Gomarankadawala.

Rock bridge at Giri hadu seya

Rock bridge at Giri hadu seya

lake at the rocky base

lake at the rocky base

right on the top

right on the top

main pagoda at giri hadu seya

main pagoda at giri hadu seya

framed

framed

lovely

lovely

the meaning of the main inscription

the meaning of the main inscription

 a cave at giri hadu seya

a cave at giri hadu seya

17 Kiulekada Shailabimbaramaya

From Tiriyaya it was a ride through a forest patch where Elephants roam around in the evenings. At the end of the forest we came across a temple on the right hand side. There were monoliths here and there, a broken statue and a blasted image house by terrorist.

pagoda at Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya

pagoda at Kivulekada Shailabimbaramaya

these were blasted by terrorist

these were blasted by terrorist

ruins

ruins

18 Kiulekada Shiva Kovil

In front of the temple there is a road which will take one towards and archeology site. There is an old kovil which is been restored. Also one could find a huge Tamil inscription too.

Shiva kovil inscription Kivulekada

Shiva kovil inscription Kivulekada

 kovil in ruins

kovil in ruins

seems like a shiva devalaya

seems like a shiva devalaya

19 Pahalagama Archeology site

This site is also right on the side of the road and its few km’s from Kiulekada. There is a pagoda, bodhigaraya & image house which has been excavated.

Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

bodhigara at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

bodhigara at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

a statue

a statue

image house at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

image house at Pahalagama archeolgy reserve

20 Surulumahamuniyawa RMV – Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few Km’s from Pahalagama site, one would come across a board to the right. After traveling 1km one could easily reach this temple. There are few restored buildings here. Those are the Bodhi garaya, sthupa, image house and another building. The monk at the temple was kind enough to treat us as he could. This site also is a must visit place.

ruins at Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri-Medawachchiya

ruins at Surulumahamuniyawa RMV Tri-Medawachchiya

more ruins

more ruins

 the pagoda

the pagoda

21 Unknown Archaeology site Trinco/Medawachchiya

Few km’s away from Trinco/Medawachchiya there is an archaeology site on the right hand side of the road. There are no houses around this point only a forest patch. We did come across two restored buildings at this site too.

Unknown Archeology site Trinco-Medawachchiya

Unknown Archaeology site Trinco-Medawachchiya

restored

restored

 another building

another building

22 Gomarankadawala Ridi kanda

One of the main archeology sites in the region. It is said that silver was mined at this point and taken to build Ruwanweli seya by King Dutugemunu. This is a huge archeology site with a museum. There are many caves scattered around the mountain range and one restored pagoda on it. The climb was a difficult one (because of the heat) but yet rewarding. There are few buildings and two pagodas at the base of it too. This is again a must visit place. To reach this place one needs to take the road behind the temple of Gomarankadawala.

Ridi kanda Archeolgy reserve

Ridi kanda Archeolgy reserve

twin sthupas

twin sthupas

 image house

image house

one of those caves

one of those caves

up we go

up we go

view from ridi kanda

view from ridi kanda

top of ridi kanda

top of ridi kanda

small museum at ridi kanda

small museum at ridi kanda

23 Gomarankadawala Rangiri ulpotha

This is another interesting archaeology site with a hot water spring. I have been to this site previously and for further information on it please read this.

24 Wilpalamkulama Daksinaramaya

While traveling towards Mora wewa passing Gomarankadawala one would come across this temple where an ancient rock pond, lake and few ruins could be found.

Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

the lake

the lake

ruins at Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

ruins at Wilpalamkulama Dakshinaramaya

25 Gajaba Lena – Mora wewa

Gajaba lena could be reached by taking the mora wewa lake road from the Mora wewa town. The temple is very well built but the caves are covered by tall mana bushes. So if you want to explore the caves be ready to scratch for few days.

Gajaba lena cave complex

Gajaba lena cave complex

kema

kema

more caves at gajaba hermitage

more caves at gajaba hermitage

a cave

a cave

26 Mora wewa

Mora Wewa Lake was 2km’s away from the temple and we did get permission from the Navy post to visit the lake. It’s not advisable to visit it during the evenings because there are elephants around the lake

mora wewa

mora wewa

 the bund

the bund

birds nesting at Pan kulam

birds nesting at Pan kulam

some pelicans

some pelicans

27 Mora wewa / Weppamkulam/ Kithuluthuwa Shakyasinharamaya

Though the name is a long one it’s a very small temple with few monoliths scattered around a bo tree and it’s found between mora wewa and Kanniya

From here we straight away headed towards Trinco and from there to Nilaweli to end one of the most hectic days in are traveling history. We did manage to visit many places but we were also dehydrated. The beach of Nilaweli was there to our rescue by washing away the tiredness of the day.

board at 162km post

board at 162km post

ruins

ruins

28 Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

On day 3 we headed towards Seru nuwara side. We took the Toppur route to Seru nuwara. While traveling to Seru nuwara we came across a name board directing to another Wilgam wehera. It was a 1km ride from the Seru nuwara road but it was well worth it. There was a huge pagoda with few “palu” trees on it. It was nice to see that there were few devotees observing sill for Vesak at this sit.

Sun rise at nilaweli

Sun rise at nilaweli

longest bridge - Kinniya bridge

longest bridge – Kinniya bridge

Wilgam wehera - Nelumgama

Wilgam wehera – Nelumgama

close up

close up

29 Seruwawila RMV

One of the most sacred sthupas in the east and worshiped by many Buddhist pilgrims, this site was crowded on that day because it was Vesak. There were many buildings which were excavated and out of them the sthupa, Bodhigaraya & Pond stranded out. Though there was a museum it was closed on that day.

Kapruka pujawa at Seruwawila

Kapruka pujawa at Seruwawila

 majestic

majestic

entrance

entrance

lovely piece of archetecture

lovely piece of architecture

well carved

well carved

pond at seruwawila

pond at seruwawila

bodhigaraya

bodhigaraya

a mandapaya

a mandapaya

30 Pashana pabbatha RMV

From Seruwawila we reached A15 and from there we headed south until we came to the junction where a board directed us to the left. This road leads up to Lankapatuna and on the way we came across Pashana pabbatha temple. There were many buildings in ruins and on top of the rocky plateau with inscriptions there were remains of a sthupa. This sthupa was vandalized by terrorist and the Terrorist radio broadcasting tower which was built on it is still visible.

ruined pagoda at pashana pabbatha

ruined pagoda at pashana pabbatha

view from the top

view from the top

some shelter

some shelter

Terrorist transmission tower

Terrorist transmission tower

an inscription

an inscription

31 Lankapatuna RMV

It is believed that Princess Hemamala and Prince Dantha landed on the shores of Lankapatuna with the sacred Sri maha Bodhi plant many years ago. Now only few ruins could be found on the rocky peak. A new pagoda is built upon the old one. To reach this temple we had to hire a boat which could accommodate 9. They charge 180/= per trip. If you wish to reach it by vehicle it is advisable to take the Thoppur road.

waiting for a boat

waiting for a boat

pond at lankapatuna

pond at lankapatuna

sthupa at lankapatuna

sthupa at lankapatuna

the statue at Lankapatuna

the statue at Lankapatuna

seruwawila seen from lankapatuna

seruwawila seen from lankapatuna

the new brdige been build

the new brdige been build

32 Black beach

800m’s away from Lankapatuna and towards the north the beach is black in colour. We did have a small walk to have a look at this unique beach before heading back.

black beach

black beach

black it is

black it is

33 Verugal Kovila

This ancient kovil is located close to the Verugal aru and one could easily access this road side kovil

Verugal kovil

Verugal kovil

gods

gods

painted part

painted part

i love this one

i love this one

34 Pagoda at Kathiraweli

Close to 78/4 culvert and between Verugal and Kathiraweli there is a pagoda on a rocky range which is been blasted currently for rocks. It is sad to see and archeology site been vandalized like this. I guess this is a common practice in the east.

Kathiraweli pagoda near 78-4 culvert

Kathiraweli pagoda near 78-4 culvert

vandalized

vandalized

35 Pre historic grave yard at Kathiraweli

This site could be easily identified by the huge Pandol like entrance. There is isolated rock with two caves and few carved steps at this site.

Kathiraweli pre historic site

Kathiraweli pre historic site

drip ledged

drip ledged

steps towards heaven

steps towards heaven

36 Kayankerni Ancient stone bridge

Now this is something new and was my main target for the day. Information about this mysterious bridge was first published by Maritime Archeology unit few years back and since then I was seeking for this. It is said to be built across a narrow point of Kayankerni lagoon. The locals believe that this was used by a prince and princes to reach to their school. There is a small archeology site close to it and another huge site 2kms away from it. We were lucky that we had the chance to visit all of them. We reached the Kayankerni Bridge and inquired about this from the police post but they were not aware of it so they called a local boy who was the ideal guy. He straightway asked us weather it was the kings bridge which we seeked for and yes was the answer. So with him we headed north and drove off road towards the lagoon where people catch prawns. From there he took us on a small fishing boat. 5o meters away from where we started paddling were the stone bridge. The slabs which were on it has fallen in to the lagoon and few pillars were even been covered with mangroves. We were so happy that we were able to find this historically important place. After thanking Thushan we headed back towards Trinco (  7°58’45.73″N  81°30’19.29″E)

Kayankerni lagoon

Kayankerni lagoon

halted at the edge

halted at the edge

Kayyankerni stone bridge

Kayyankerni stone bridge

still standing tall

still standing tall

remaining pillars

remaining pillars

 ruin site close to the bridge

ruin site close to the bridge

 idi

idi

ruins found 1km away

ruins found 1km away

37 Fifty eight mile post dhageba(Aradhana seya)

On our way back we were treated well at few Dansals given by the forces and the police stations out of those the manyok dansal took care of our need for lunch. At the 58th mile post we came across a pagoda with a bo tree on it. The surrounding was very well maintained. There was a beautiful moon stone just like at Anuradhapura. From this pagoda it is easy to spot Seruwawila pagoda over the paddy fields. When we looked back there were few army officers looking at us with a smile on their faces. We were told that they restored the place and opened it on this vesak day and we must have been the first two curious pilgrims to visit and worship the place.

one of those dansel

one of those dansel

yummy

yummy

58th post dhageba

58th post dhageba

 what a beauty

what a beauty

38 Muttur Gal kanda ruins (40th mile post)

Close to the 40th mile post we came across a tall mountain range and there was a lion’s mouth at its base. We were bit curious so we went there and inquired. We were told that there are ruins on top of the mountain but it would be tough to climb since it was very hot. We decided to go ahead because there was a stairway to the summit. This was one of the best outlook points in Trinco.. We could easily see for miles and the bay of Koddiyar was seen clearly too. The main attraction was the pagoda on the summit. We were told that it is been restored in few days. I recommend climbing this hill so you could enjoy the scenery it provides.

Gal kanda range as seen from A15

Gal kanda range as seen from A15

Muttur galkanda ruins site stairway

Muttur galkanda ruins site stairway

what a view

what a view

endless scenery

endless scenery

towards koddiyar bay

towards koddiyar bay

pagoda on the summit

pagoda on the summit

39 Vesak at Trincomalee

After a small rest at Nilaweli we returned back to Trincomalee to enjoy some Vesak lanterns. There were many lanterns especially around the naval headquarters and the roads were packed with pilgrims who enjoyed the walk. This was indeed a unique Vesak night for us.

navy base lit up

navy base lit up

vesak lantern 1

vesak lantern 1

lovely isnt it?

lovely isnt it?

vesak lantern 2

vesak lantern 2

vesak lantern 3

vesak lantern 3

 lagoon of trinco on vesak day

lagoon of trinco on vesak day

40 Sampur – Attempt to visit foul point

On day 3 our main objective was to enjoy a sun rise at marble beach but we were told that its open only at 8am for the public. So we headed towards the fishing bay to enjoy the sun rise. After a brief stop at Mahaweli river estuary we did proceed towards Sampur. But after a difficult ride we were denied to go past one point since the road ran across a camp. So the attempt to reach foul point was not a success. But we did manage to enjoy the scenery towards the bay from the beach.

another sun rise

another sun rise

 halted

halted

and the owners

and the owners of the cycles

where Mahaweli river reaches the ocean

where Mahaweli river reaches the ocean

 Sampur beach

Sampur beach

close to Foul point at sampur

close to Foul point at sampur

view towards koneshwaram from sampur

view towards koneshwaram from sampur

Villu kulam

Villu kulam

wow loved this one

wow loved this one

41 Marble beach

When we reached Marble beach it was 8am and already there were 5/6 buses. We did walk around the beach just to feel the calm ocean waves and then decided to head back to Nilaweli.

marble beach entrance

marble beach entrance

very calm

very calm

 loved this place

loved this place

crystal clear

crystal clear

42 Pigeon Island

At Nilaweli we took a boat ride to Pigeon Island, though it was crowded we did manage to have a quick dip. We decided that we should come on another day to spend some time leisurely. So we returned back in half an hour.

on the way to pigeon island

on the way to pigeon island

pigeon island

pigeon island

pigeon island jr

pigeon island jr

 main land

main land

 welcome

welcome

 coral beach

coral beach

 the shore of the island

the shore of the island

wow

wow

calm and peaceful

calm and peaceful

marine life

marine life

43 Boat ride In Koddiyar bay

Thanks to Amila we had been granted permission to enter the naval base. For 20/= we were offered a boat ride. That boat ride was very educational and we did enjoy every second of it.

boat trip in the bay

boat trip in the bay

 coal ship

coal ship

prima factory

prima factory

Sober island

Sober island

anchored

anchored

another ship

another ship

44 Hoods tower museum

After the Boat ride we headed towards the Hoods tower museum where war artifacts recovered from the terrorist could be found. There was a scenic outlook post at this point too. The tour was an educational one but we had to rush quickly by skipping some sections. They did charge 50/= pp at the entrance.

Hoods tower museum

Hoods tower museum

mini subs

mini subs

sinker

sinker

parts of a boat

parts of a boat

view from the hoods tower

view from the hoods tower

the bay

the bay

ancient fort

ancient fort

bunkers used during WW2

bunkers used during WW2

close up

close up

 view towards the ocean

view towards the ocean

finaly a dansel to end the day

finally a dansel to end the day

Since it was 2pm we had lunch from Trincomalee and headed towards home sweet home to end one of the best planned Vesak holidays ever in our life. Though it seemed like we did things in a rush it wasn’t. It was just our normal pace when we go on trips. I’m happy I have a partner just like me otherwise I would have missed many places I visited during this visit. Hope this would be a good guide on Trincomalee if you have any queries just inquire… Thanks

Lost In the paradise of lagoons, islands and causeways

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Year and Month 31st Jan – 4th Feb 2014
Number of Days Five Day Trip
Crew 2 (Me & my wife, aged 32-34)
Accommodation Uthayan Rest – Jaffna
Transport It’s my Vitz
Activities Sightseeing, Scenic drive and Photography
Weather Excellent on the first four days. Gloomy and occasional drizzling on day 5
Route
  • Day 1: Maharagama -> E03 -> Puttalam -> Nochchiyagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Tantirimale -> Neriyakulam -> Medawachchiya -> Vavuniya -> Kilinochchi -> Jaffna
  • Day 2: Jaffna -> Kurikadduwan -> Nagadeepa -> Kurikadduwan -> Jaffna -> Ponnalai -> Karainager -> Ponnalai -> Jaffna
  • Day 3: Jaffna -> Kurikadduwan -> Jaffna -> Chunnakam -> Ponnlai -> Dambakola patuna -> KKS ->Chunnakam -> Thondamanaru -> Point pedro -> Manalkadu -> Kiramakodu -> Jaffna
  • Day 4: Jaffna -> Kurikadduwan -> Delft -> Kurikadduwan -> Jaffna -> Navatkuli -> Sangupiddy -> Navatkuli -> Jaffna
  • Day 5: Jaffna -> Kilinochchi -> Vavunya -> Medawachchiya -> Anuradhapura -> Puttalam -> E03 -> Maharagama
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Now there are plenty of boats from Kurikadduwan jetty to Nagadeepa. Although we were there during an extra long week end, no long queues for Nagadeepa were seen.
  • There are two boats operating free of charge to Delft, one at 8.30 a.m. and other at 9.30 a.m. They are large comfortable vessels and will take around 1 ¼ hours one way. Usually there are around 100 – 120 villagers to travel and after boarding them, navy will let other travellers in. If there are more crowds, they can get together and arrange private boats (Generally old large fishing boats like) where navy will make the contacts. A tour will cost around Rs. 18,000/- both ways and will take 1 ½ hours one way. One boat could take 100 – 120 passengers but there won’t be sufficient seating.
  • Boats to both Nagadeepa and Delft start from same jetty, Kurikadduwan. It has around 32km from Jaffna to Jetty.
  • Road from Jaffna to Kurikadduwan jetty is under widening and expect delays. It may take more than one hour for the journey.
  • If you are interested in archaeology, better to visit Jaffna fort first and learn about the archaeological monuments of north from the exhibition room of the fort.
  • It is prudent to arrange a transport mechanism in advance for Delft at least if you are visiting on holidays. We saw large crowds coming to the island and just wondering along the main street due to lack of a mode of transport. Our guide was Bimalan whose details are already available in the forum. He charged 1,500/- for the tour.
  • Delft has a special kind of a Light House of which details are given in another place of this report. This is located in the navy controlled area and hence our guide Bimalan does not show it. Worth giving it a try. Details of the attractions of delft are available in the waiting area of the jetty. Worth having a look at it before starting the journey. I saw it after finishing the journey and it was too late to realize that we have missed that lighthouse and a few more.
  • Distance from the jetty to Delft is roughly around 10km. Another 10km are there to Kachchativu. As I heard, there is a navy base and a church/shrine in the island. Visitors are allowed during the festival of the church only. As I heard, festival is during February or March.
  • To visit Fort Hammenheil, a navy contact is required if you are not staying in the resort. It will cost Rs. 18,000/- for a double room on full board basis. This is a resort run by the Malima Enterprises, attached to SL Navy.
  • There are two Casurina beaches in Karainager (of course spelled differently) marked in Google maps in the northern border and western border of the island. Proper one is the beach located in the northern border. The other one is not that large, isolated and should reach via isolated narrow sandy roads.
  • Road beyond Sangupiddy bridge towards poonaryn is under construction.
  • Please do not litter. Dispose waste properly. Help to keep the sites clean.
  • ** Special Thanks to **
    • Major Rangana Herath
    • Lt. Commander Dinesh Karunaratne
    • Lt. Commander in charge – Fort Hammenheil Resort
    • SL Navy Officer In Charge – KKD jetty
    • SL Navy officer Wickramaratne of KKD Jetty
    • All other SL Navy officers/other members who operated boats and helped us in many ways at the KKD jetty and Delft jetty.
    • My friend Mayooran Thyagarajah and his family for their great hospitality during our stay in Jaffna.
    • Lakdasun friends – Ashan, Niroshan, Kasun, Sri, Christy, Soysa and Madam Chandanie for their wonderful reports on Jaffna. Kindly accept my heart felt gratitude for taking time and effort to build up such a wealth of information for the benefit of others.
Author Hasitha KM
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

During the last few years, majority of my excursions were around the central hills where the cool climates and breathtaking scenery of the tea country made me irresistible. Having so much left to explore in the other regions of the country, especially in the northern half, I decided to break the shackles and witness the unmatched beauty of the lagoon paradise, Jaffna peninsula. It was the first day of the “extra long” first weekend of February and at 5.30 am two of us were in the car heading towards Puttalam for a 5 day tour to Jaffna, the longest so far!

While enjoying the beautiful sceneries and attractions on the way, our intention was to spend maximum possible time along causeways and lagoons to witness the beauty of the unique landscapes. Having a drive of 450km during the day, we had the breakfast stop at the beach park in Puttalam.

The lagoon of windmills

The lagoon of windmills

The giant of Noroccholai

The giant of Noroccholai

After the break we continued the journey along A12 towards Anuradhapura and turned left at Nochciyagama with the intention of having a drive through Oyamaduwa and Tantirimale as I have not been to this area before, and get to A14 at Neriyakulam.

However, we skipped visiting Tantirimale temple as there are plenty to see beyond Vavuniya and a long way to make during the day.

Drying Bada Iringu on Nochchiyagama – Oyamaduwa road

Drying Bada Iringu on Nochchiyagama – Oyamaduwa road

A Corn field

A Corn field

Ready to harvest

Ready to harvest

Oyamaduwa road is so scenic

Oyamaduwa road is so scenic

On the way

On the way

lovely

lovely

Greenary

Greenary

Another Yoda lipa? This is close to Tanthirimale

Another Yoda lipa? This is close to Tanthirimale

Scenery

Scenery

There were some bad stretches between Oyamaduwa and Neriyakulam where road has been washed away due to recent floods. But a car can cross through with careful driving.

Initially our plan was to use Neriyakulam – Vavuniya road but since it was in bad condition, we decided to take the road via Medawachchiya. Our stop for lunch was Kedella run by SL Army.

Kedella

Kedella

Restaurant

Restaurant

Restaurant and the hut

Restaurant and the hut

After fairly a long drive passing Vavuniya, we stopped at Kokavil war hero monument to pay our respect. An army officer is there to explain the tragedy happened in Kokavil.

Entering Vavuniya

Entering Vavuniya

Omanthai, Border of former LTTE controlled area

Omanthai, Border of former LTTE controlled area

Omantai Army barrier

Omantai Army barrier

Mankulam

Mankulam

Kokavil war hero monument

Kokavil war hero monument

Heart breaking story

Heart breaking story – Click Image to Enlarge

A9 at Kokavil

A9 at Kokavil

Our next attraction of the day was Iranamadu Tank. After turning right at Iranamadu junction, driving few kms straight will end up at Iranamadu Tank. There is a car park and a jana awanhala run by SL Army, near the tank.

Iranamadu junction

Iranamadu junction

Antique

Antique

Not a shrine

Not a shrine

Water purification facility

Water purification facility

The spill

The spill

Dam

Dam

The way of spilling water

The way of spilling water

Spill gates

Spill gates

History

History

Jana awanhala by SL Army

Jana awanhala by SL Army

Then we headed towards Kilinochchi town to see the blasted water tank. Kilinochchi town is well developed and further improvements were going on. After a short stop at the war monument, we continued towards Elephant pass.

A9 in Kilinochchi town

A9 in Kilinochchi town

Kilinochchi war hero monument

Kilinochchi war hero monument

Blasted water tank

Blasted water tank

Inside the column

Inside the column

The tank

The tank

Inside the tank

Inside the tank

Inside the tank

Inside the tank

Souvenir gallery in the premises

Souvenir gallery in the premises

The new comer

The new comer

At the time we visited Corporal Gamini Kularathne Memorial, It was evening and an army parade was going on in honor of him. We too paid our respect to him, Visited his souvenir gallery and continued towards Jaffna.

At the memorial of Corp. Gamini Kularatne

At the memorial of Corp. Gamini Kularatne

The monument receiving the respect of the Army

The monument receiving the respect of the Army

The bull dozer destroyed by Corp. Gamini Kularatne

The bull dozer destroyed by Corp. Gamini Kularatne

Jana awanhala at the monument

Jana awanhala at the monument

Brand new experience for many, Highway + Railway at Elephant Pass

Brand new experience for many, Highway + Railway at Elephant Pass

It was 7.30 pm when we reached Udayan Rest. Mr. Ravi, the owner warmly welcomed us and arranged our dinner. Room facilities were very basic but Mr. Ravi’s service was exceptional.

Our plan for the next day was to visit Nagadeepa and then Karainager. Although we could have visited both Nagadeepa and Delft on the same day, we planned them for two days as we wanted to spend more time close to the lagoons and causeways to enjoy the beauty. During the next three days, our plan was to spend all mornings and evenings along Kayts/Punkudutivu, Karainagar and Sangupiddy causeways of the lagoon paradise.

Since it was the beginning of an extra long week end, expecting a huge crowd in the jetty, we decided to set off early in the morning to avoid waste of time in queues. Leaving early means we have to look for breakfast on the way, which is not a very good idea. So, we had to satisfy with some Prima Stella noodle cups which can be instantly prepared with some hot water. At 5.45 am, we were heading towards Kurikadduwan (KKD) jetty along the Kytes causeway.

Dawn at the Kayts cause way

Dawn at the Kayts cause way

She is up

She is up

Morning show

Morning show

More

More

The causeway

The causeway

Morning paintings

Morning paintings

Unbelievable

Unbelievable

Seamless

Seamless

Typical Thal weta

Typical Thal weta

More creative this time

More creative this time

Natural park

Natural park

Unique landscapes

Unique landscapes

Whoa…

Whoa…

The causeway from Jaffna to Kytes was under construction and it was not so easy to tackle.

We were able to reach the jetty around 7.15 with amidst several stops to enjoy the morning scenery. To our surprise, there wasn’t a queue and the boat “Mani Nagaddepa” was loading passengers. Soon we got in and it was a 15 min ride to Nagadeepa jetty. There were several boats in operation and hence there were no long queues. A boat departed every 15-20 minutes from KKD jetty to Nagadeepa.

KKD Jetty. Public transport drop/collect passengers directly at the jetty. Other vehicles should be parked in the main land and passengers should walk to the jetty along the short causeway.

KKD Jetty. Public transport drop/collect passengers directly at the jetty. Other vehicles should be parked in the main land and passengers should walk to the jetty along the short causeway.

The boat we travelled to Nagadeepa

The boat we travelled to Nagadeepa

Halted Vada Tharakai II, the 8.30 vessel to Delft operated by RDA for free

Halted Vada Tharakai II, the 8.30 vessel to Delft operated by RDA for free

Entrance

Entrance

Serene

Serene

Image house

Image house

Paintings

Paintings

Beautiful

Beautiful

After visiting the temple we walked towards the Kovil along the main street of Nainativu. The jetty to take the return boat is located at the kovil.

Crossing over

Crossing over

Entrance to kovil

Entrance to kovil

Kovil

Kovil

Colorful

Colorful

Beautiful

Beautiful

A ferry moving away

A ferry moving away

Vehicles are taken back

Vehicles are taken back

It was around 12.00 noon when we came back to KKD jetty and it was the time to head towards Fort Hammenheil restaurant, Karainager, for lunch via Jaffna. On the way we had plenty of time to enjoy the unmatched beauty along the Kayts/Punkuduthuvu causeway.

Grassland with bushes

Grassland with bushes

Amazing landscapes created by sea weeds

Amazing landscapes created by sea weeds

The Icon

The Icon

Again the grassland

Again the grassland

Fence made up of Palmyra leaf stem

Fence made up of Palmyra leaf stem

Paddy in kytes with the icon in the back drop

Paddy in kytes with the icon in the back drop

Amazing landscapes

Amazing landscapes

Isso kotu

Isso kotu

Natural monochrome

Natural monochrome

Whistling ducks

Whistling ducks

Canopy missing in action

Canopy missing in action

Brahmini kite in the wind

Brahmini kite in the wind

More landscapes

More landscapes

Beauty

Beauty

Different

Different

The Lagoon

The Lagoon

Unlike the Kayts/Punkudutivu causeways, Karainager causeway was in very good condition and surrounding was more colourful.

Towards Ponnalai

Towards Ponnalai

Tobacco

Tobacco

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway

Hut in the lagoon. Similar to huts in the paddy fields of the South.

Hut in the lagoon. Similar to huts in the paddy fields of the South.

Lagoon more colourful

Lagoon more colourful

Closer look

Closer look

Fort Hammenheil Resort and Restaurant are located inside the Navy Base “Elara” of Karainager. Restaurant is located in the main land of Karainager and the Resort is located in a small island around 200m away from the main land. Anyone can walk in to the restaurant for meals or snacks. Prices are reasonable and food is great, especially their seafood dishes.

There are seven forts in northern part of Sri Lanka. They are Jaffna, Kytes, Fort Hammenheil, Delft, Punarin,  Mannar, and Arippu. Fort Hammenheil  had been used as a prison later. SL Navy has converted Fort Hammenheil to a luxury resort and it is managed under SL Navy Resort chain, Malima Enterprises. They have not modified the main structures of the fort but converted three upper floor rooms to luxury rooms. In addition, one prison room with seven beds has been modified and if somebody wants to get a prison experience, those beds can be reserved at Rs. 7,000 per person. As we had prior arrangements through a contact, we were able to visit this magical location.

Towards the Base

Towards the Base

SLNS Elara

SLNS Elara

Fort Hammenheil

Fort Hammenheil

Entrance

Entrance

This means “Welcome”. Guests who stay here will receive a colorful Navy welcome too

This means “Welcome”. Guests who stay here will receive a colorful Navy welcome too

Image showing how this fort was captured by English by destroying water tank

Image showing how this fort was captured by English by destroying water tank

Corridor at the entrance

Corridor at the entrance

Walls made up of coral rocks

Walls made up of coral rocks

Mr. Rohana Wijeweera had been kept here. These are said to be his writings

Mr. Rohana Wijeweera had been kept here. These are said to be his writings – Click Image to Enlarge

Another prison cell

Another prison cell

Luxury Prison cell. Before, these beds were just cement blocks. They are now surrounded by wood and placed matrasses to convert them to comfortable beds. Rs. 7,000/- per bed if you want to be a prisoner here for a night full board. Seven vacancies available.

Luxury Prison cell. Before, these beds were just cement blocks. They are now surrounded by wood and placed matrasses to convert them to comfortable beds. Rs. 7,000/- per bed if you want to be a prisoner here for a night full board. Seven vacancies available.

Prisoners belongings

Prisoners belongings

Courtyard

Courtyard

From the other end

From the other end

Modifications

Modifications

“Heads” means toilets

“Heads” means toilets

Garden – This is at a higher elevation than courtyard

Garden – This is at a higher elevation than courtyard

What a place to be

What a place to be

Watch hut in the rampart

Watch hut in the rampart

The jetty with a water jet

The jetty with a water jet

The deck to watch Sun rise

The deck to watch Sun rise

The view

The view

Restaurant as seen from FH

Restaurant as seen from FH

Restaurant

Restaurant

White sandy beach

White sandy beach

After relaxing a bit and taking some snaps at the restaurant premises, we headed towards Casurina beach to call it a day with the sun set.

Casurina Beach

Casurina Beach

Crowded in the evening

Crowded in the evening

Landscapes

Landscapes

Amazing sun set

Amazing sun set

Getting down slowly

Getting down slowly

Hiding behind

Hiding behind

She is up on the other side

She is up on the other side

Pinkish lagoon along the causeway

Pinkish lagoon along the causeway

End of the day

End of the day

Our plan for the third day was the visit to Delft. I too contacted Bimalan in advance for the tour. So, we repeated the previous day morning schedule and arrived at the KKD jetty at 7.15 am. Previous day we came to know that there are two boats in operation for Delft, one at 8.30 am and the other at 9.30 am, which depart from Delft at 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm respectively. Nagadeepa tours were in operation as usual and the Delft Maid, Wada Tharaki II was halted in the jetty which was supposed to depart at 8.30 am. There were only about 5 people in the jetty for Delft and there was no queue. Gate was closed and we were advised by a Navy officer to sit and wait in the nearby building until we are called up.

After about half an hour, crowds started coming in and in a matter of minutes the surrounding was jam packed with hundreds of holiday makers who were willing to step on Delft, yet there was no queue. To our disappointment, Navy informed that Wada Tharaki II will not be in operation due to some fault. Further, they informed that 9.30 boat is there but it can take only 120 passengers and there are around 100 villagers to travel usually where only 20 others will get a chance! We were among the first ten who arrived at the jetty but as the crowd was all over without a queue, who will guarantee that we will get in?

By the time crowds have grown bigger and were restless. Then Navy offered the crowds that they will make the contacts if groups are willing to go to Delft in private boats in batches of around 150, where cost will be around 18,000 for a tour. Some groups agreed and few private boats came to the jetty. They were old fishing boats and were not powerful. Estimated time to reach Delft was one and half hours. Once you get in, it is almost like trapped in because boat has a wooden roof and only small openings are there for ventilation. Other than being jam packed, noise of the engine is a headache and sometimes exhaust gas is leaking in making it very uncomfortable to stay. On top of that, most dangerous thing was that nobody had an idea as to how many people can be loaded and although life jackets were given, if something happens in the middle of the ocean, only those who stay close to windows can escape. I felt this as our return journey from Nagadeepa previous day was in such a boat. Though some groups offered to take us, we did not want to be in the sea for one and half hours taking such a risk and decided to return to Jaffna without wasting time and commence the “Day 4” schedule.

But next challenge was to inform this to Bimalan and move the appointment to the next day. Although he could understand Sinhalese and English to some extent, He never understood my “long story” and I either could not understand what he was asking. Finally the problem was solved with the help of a seller who speak both Sinhalese and Tamil, at the turn off to the jetty.

Soon we were on the roads of the Jaffna peninsula. We drove towards Puttur road along Palali road and first visited Nilavara bottomless well and then came back to Chunnakam to visit Kadurugoda temple. We did not forget to witness the road side beauty too.

By the road

By the road

Cultivations

Cultivations

Prosperous

Prosperous

Nilavara bottomless well

Nilavara bottomless well

Closer

Closer

Everything is there

Everything is there

More

More

Brand new setting for many

Brand new setting for many

Chunnakam

Chunnakam

Entrance to Kadurugoda temple. Navy had done a great job to develop these

Entrance to Kadurugoda temple. Navy had done a great job to develop these

The stupas

The stupas

Remaining foundations

Remaining foundations

Then our intention was to have a drive along the road bordering northern coastal line. So we got to Ponnalai at the junction where Karainager causeway starts and went towards Dambakola patuna. After visiting the temple and having some Beli mal from the Army café, we went to visit Keeramale Naguleswaran temple and the pond. Then we started going forward along the coastal road and it came to an end at the gate of Thal Sevana Holiday resort and Army base. Beyond that the road is closed and it is the high security zone. So we went back to Chunnakam and crossed over to Point Pedro road.

Towards Ponnalai fro Jaffna. Paddy fields up to horizon!

Towards Ponnalai fro Jaffna. Paddy fields up to horizon!

Iconic

Iconic

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway at the distance

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway at the distance

Dambakola Patuna Sangamitta temple

Dambakola Patuna Sangamitta temple

Newly built

Newly built

The replica

The replica

Beautiful Dambakola Patuna beach

Beautiful Dambakola Patuna beach

The Sea

The Sea

The shop

The shop

Facilities for visitors to have lunch with a rest

Facilities for visitors to have lunch with a rest

Dambakola Patuna Vishrama shalawa. Accomodation facilities available but forgot to collect booking details

Dambakola Patuna Vishrama shalawa. Accomodation facilities available but forgot to collect booking details

Entrance to Naguleswaram Kovil. Premises is under renovation.

Entrance to Naguleswaram Kovil. Premises is under renovation.

The Five main Shiva Kovils around the coastal line. Naguleshwaram lies in the northern edge. (Source: internet)

The Five main Shiva Kovils around the coastal line. Naguleshwaram lies in the northern edge. (Source: internet)

Keeramale pond

Keeramale pond

They are coloured now

They are coloured now

They too are coloured

They too are coloured

KKS cement factory zoomed. Passing this, our journey along that road ended at Thalsevana

KKS cement factory zoomed. Passing this, our journey along that road ended at Thalsevana

From there we reached Thondamanaru to visit Selvasannadi Kovil. After spending some time in the kovil and enjoying the surrounding we went towards Point Pedro to see the northern most point of Sri Lanka and Point Pedro light house.

At the attempt to cross over to Point Pedro road. Carpeted road ended nowhere

At the attempt to cross over to Point Pedro road. Carpeted road ended nowhere

Grapes farm

Grapes farm

No fruits

No fruits

Sign boards

Sign boards

Selva sannadi shrine where Kataragama pada yathra starts from

Selva sannadi shrine where Kataragama pada yathra starts from

Inside

Inside

Shrine

Shrine

Thondamanaru anicut

Thondamanaru anicut

Thondamanaru meeting the sea

Thondamanaru meeting the sea

Valvettithurai

Valvettithurai

Halted

Halted

Coral beach

Coral beach

Coastal road along the northern shore

Coastal road along the northern shore

Northern tip of Sri Lanka

Northern tip of Sri Lanka

Point Pedro jetty

Point Pedro jetty

Harbour. Parents and offspring

Harbour. Parents and offspring

Karawala

Karawala

Base of the lighthouse. Tsunami water level marked.

Base of the lighthouse. Tsunami water level marked.

The giant

The giant

Not safe to climb up

Not safe to climb up

The lamp

The lamp

After the light house, the road curved into the main land and it was the end of our coastal ride. Then we were in search of the Manalkadu sand dunes and the remaining of the Dutch church. After several inquiries we got to the junction where we turned left and went for another few kms to reach the sand dunes and Dutch church.

End of the show along the shore

End of the show along the shore

At the junction to Manalkadu. Note the 9th Milepost at middle right hand corner

At the junction to Manalkadu. Note the 9th Milepost at middle right hand corner

Sand dunes and Cyprus forest

Sand dunes and Cyprus forest

Sand dunes

Sand dunes

Endless

Endless

Ruined Manalkadu Dutch church

Ruined Manalkadu Dutch church

Inside

Inside

Made up of coral rocks

Made up of coral rocks

Sand art

Sand art

After witnessing the sun set at Manalkadu, it was the time to call it a day. On this day we had an invitation from a good friend of mine in Jaffna for dinner and we were there around 8.30 pm. After spending few hours of enjoyable time with his family, we came back to Uthayan rest dreaming of the second phase of the Delft tour next day.

Fire ball falling down

Fire ball falling down

Sun set over sand dunes

Sun set over sand dunes

As usual, morning course of the previous two days  was repeated on the fourth day morning too and we were on the jetty at 7.00 am being the first visitors for Delft. Wada Tharaki was still not well and only 9.30 boat “Kumudini” was available. Although we had a Navy contact, previous day we tried the tour without troubling him. But today too it was clear that same process is going to be repeated and we did not want to go in those old private boats.  As we were the first Delft travelers to arrive at the jetty, ideally we must be the first to get in to 9.30 boat after the villagers. But as there was no queue, there was no guarantee that we would get that chance. Previous day too Navy officers at the jetty were trying hard to help the crowd to get to Delft where they were too busy and being just a couple we could have lost their attention easily.  I decided to call our Navy friend and requested to secure the first chance to get in to 9.30 boat after villagers, which we deserved. He arranged it over the phone and we could stay in Navy officers rest room until the boat is ready. Surprisingly at that time our friend had been participating to some religious ceremony in Nagadeepa and on his way back we could meet him too.

It was around 8.30 and we heard some Navy officers were whispering that sea is rough. We felt shocked because boats may not operate when sea is rough. Time passed by and while we were waiting, another group came to the jetty for some official visit to Delft and there were two Navy water jets ready for them. Because of our friend, Navy officers in the jetty arranged to take us too with them in a water jet. We were surprised and excited about the lifetime ride we are going to get and got into a jet.

We were advised to pack cameras and bags and keep them inside the cabin as they could be blown out or water may splash on them. While some ladies got into the cabin and some gentlemen were standing holding the iron bars around the cabin, we sat on the base of the machine gun fixed at the back and did hold the gun tight.

It was one hell of a ride! The water jet was travelling like an arrow at a speed of 30 knots and was cutting through the waves of the rough sea, splashing water all over us. Even the lips and skin of the face were blowing away. Eyes were burning due to salt water. Time to time we had spit out salt water as it has gone inside the mouth too. We could not do anything other than holding onto the gun tight. We were at the Delft jetty within just 15 minutes!

Following our call, Bimalan appeared at the jetty and we were on the way with him witnessing the beauty of Delft. The island is 8km in length and 6km in width with a population of 6000. The land is mostly made up of coral rock and huge grasslands with white corals everywhere was a unique sight. Bimalan took us around the island showing the unique attractions one by one.

Just as you step in to the island from jetty

Just as you step in to the island from jetty

Landscapes

Landscapes

Sandy roads instead of gravel roads

Sandy roads instead of gravel roads

Biobab tree

Biobab tree

This is native to Africa, brought here by Arabic sailors and planted where they have stationed in order to feed camels. This had been used as a medicinal plant for horses too

This is native to Africa, brought here by Arabic sailors and planted where they have stationed in order to feed camels. This had been used as a medicinal plant for horses too

Huge trunk with the hole

Huge trunk with the hole

Inside the hole

Inside the hole

Iconic rock fences

Iconic rock fences

Made up of coral rock

Made up of coral rock

Land block perfectly demarcated by a rock fence

Land block perfectly demarcated by a rock fence

Growing stone

Growing stone

Growth

Growth

Pigeon holes. Dutch people had used this to house pigeons who take messages to Jaffna. Message was tied to a leg of the pigeon and it had been trained to deliver the message and return to the same hole.

Pigeon holes. Dutch people had used this to house pigeons who take messages to Jaffna. Message was tied to a leg of the pigeon and it had been trained to deliver the message and return to the same hole.

70 Holes for pigeons

70 Holes for pigeons

English court house

English court house

The symbol

The symbol

Pigeon house and court house

Pigeon house and court house

Old Dutch hospital

Old Dutch hospital

Courtyard

Courtyard

Delft hospital. Have to go through the hospital to reach the fort

Delft hospital. Have to go through the hospital to reach the fort

Through the hospital

Through the hospital

Delft Dutch fort. This has two floors. There are five rooms in the ground floor and they do not have windows unlike the upper floor rooms. They had been used to keep prisoners, ammunition etc.

Delft Dutch fort. This has two floors. There are five rooms in the ground floor and they do not have windows unlike the upper floor rooms. They had been used to keep prisoners, ammunition etc.

A room in the ground floor

A room in the ground floor

Watch hut

Watch hut

The tank

The tank

Coral land

Coral land

Picturesque

Picturesque

Wild horses, the signature of Delft. Portugese had bought horses here for their travelling. Dutch people had used this island to breed horses and sell them to ships. After their departure, those horses freely bred in the island giving life to a generation of wild horses.

Wild horses, the signature of Delft. Portugese had bought horses here for their travelling. Dutch people had used this island to breed horses and sell them to ships. After their departure, those horses freely bred in the island giving life to a generation of wild horses.

Family?

Family?

Freedom

Freedom

Anxious

Anxious

Beautiful coral beach

Beautiful coral beach

Drinking water wells which supply water to whole island. This part of the island contains quality fresh water.

Drinking water wells which supply water to whole island. This part of the island contains quality fresh water.

Giants’ foot print

Giants’ foot print

Land is like a rough cement floor

Land is like a rough cement floor

Horse stable. Dutch had used the island to breed and sell horses to ships. This stable had been used to keep horses prepared for selling.

Horse stable. Dutch had used the island to breed and sell horses to ships. This stable had been used to keep horses prepared for selling.

It is 100m long

It is 100m long

BOC serving the remote community

BOC serving the remote community

CEB depot

CEB depot

Mahindodaya laboratory has not forgotten Delft school too

Mahindodaya laboratory has not forgotten Delft school too

Pradeshiya sabha

Pradeshiya sabha

Brand new DS office

Brand new DS office

Post office

Post office

Halted at Delft jetty

Halted at Delft jetty

Illegal Tamil Nadu fishing boat seized

Illegal Tamil Nadu fishing boat seized

The Water Jets we came

The Water Jets we came

There is a Navy controlled area in the island and there is a unique light house constructed during Dutch period, which we missed. A picture of this light house is available in the passage at the entrance. At the night, a fire is set inside the base of the lighthouse using firewood and the fire comes out of the chimney. After the fire, smoke comes out of the chimney during day time. That is how it has signaled the ships sailing in its vicinity. Bimalan was not willing to go to Navy controlled area and therefore this lighthouse is not in his list. So he did not take us there and did not speak a word about it either. We too did not notice it until we got to the jetty otherwise we could have given it a try.

The light house as displayed at the jetty

The light house as displayed at the jetty

After two hours we could complete seeing Delft (Except the stupa which we purposely skipped due to limitation of time as we had to come in time for the return jet ride) and we were at the jetty, ready for the ride back. We could see large crowds around the jetty who have arrived in private boats and just wondering around the main street as there were no mode of transport available for them inside the island. So it is always prudent to make some prior arrangements for ground transport before visiting Delft.

Sea was even more vicious on our return journey. We too had to stand and hold on to the iron bars fixed around the cabin. Waves were so big that water was splashing even above our heads. We were totally wet just as good as a quick sea bath. It took 20 minutes for the return journey as the sea was rough.

After paying our gratitude to the Navy officers at the jetty and who operated the jets, we came to Jaffna town.

On the way we did not forget to pay a visit to the memorial of Lt. Gen. Denzil Kobbekaduwa, Maj. Gen. Wijaya Wimalaratne and other heroes at araly point.

Unbelievably beautiful  and unique landscapes

Unbelievably beautiful and unique landscapes

Could not resist

Could not resist

Directions

Directions

The monument. This is not the exact place where bomb was blasted. It is around 3km away

The monument. This is not the exact place where bomb was blasted. It is around 3km away

Vehicles used to simulate the blast at the investigations to find whether bomb was in the ground or fixed to the vehicle. But evidence were not sufficient to come to a conclusion

Vehicles used to simulate the blast at the investigations to find whether bomb was in the ground or fixed to the vehicle. But evidence were not sufficient to come to a conclusion

After having a change at Uthayan rest to utilize the saved extra time to visit some places around the city close to the fort.

Then we went along Point Pedro road towards King Sankili statue. Passing it and going forward for about another 100-200m, Rajamanthri walawwa can be seen by the road to the left. Sankili arch too can be seen by the road on the opposite side.

Jaffna clock tower

Jaffna clock tower

Glory

Glory

Jaffna library

Jaffna library

Hospital street, Jaffna. Parking available in the middle.

Hospital street, Jaffna. Parking available in the middle.

King Sankili statue

King Sankili statue

Sankili arch

Sankili arch

Architecture

Architecture

Rajamanthri walawwa, residence of the first minister of king Sankili. English rulers have done some modifications and placed a note above the entrance

Rajamanthri walawwa, residence of the first minister of king Sankili. English rulers have done some modifications and placed a note above the entrance

Living area

Living area

Decorated with wood carvings

Decorated with wood carvings

Artistic

Artistic

Then it was time for another evening at the third causeway which is at Sangupiddy on the Mannar road via Poonaryn.

Sign of prosperity

Sign of prosperity

Almost hitting the horizon

Almost hitting the horizon

On to the causeway

On to the causeway

Closer to Sangupiddy bridge

Closer to Sangupiddy bridge

The bridge. Enough space for boats to cross

The bridge. Enough space for boats to cross

What a wonderful place to be

What a wonderful place to be

Road towards Poonaryn is under construction

Road towards Poonaryn is under construction

Starting the show

Starting the show

Painted sky

Painted sky

Modern Sri Lanka

Modern Sri Lanka

After having an unforgettable day, we had a nice dinner at Malayan café (Located near mini bus stand) and completed it with Rio ice cream.

Did not forget to taste

Did not forget to taste

Next day, which was the final day we had to return to Colombo but some key places were still remaining including the Jaffna fort. Although meals are not prepared at Uthayan rest, they arrange meals on our request and those were very tasty. Their usual time for breakfast was 8.30 but on our request the time was advanced to 7.30. (One good thing about Uthayan rest is that the owner Mr. Ravi arranges everything we request sharp on time from the bed tea. There were no delays on his part). Yet we decided to pay a visit to fort around 6.30 and come back for breakfast.

Jaffna fort is a massive pentagon of which one side is protected facing the sea and other sides are protected by two ramparts and a moat in between. It is the second largest fort in Sri Lanka where Gall fort stands on top. Dutch rulers used forts for protection. Hence there are stores of weapons and ammunition, food stores and prisons.

The Dutch church in Jaffna fort had been in very good condition until recent past but war has reduced it to a heap of rubble. English rulers did not have that much of a security threat. So they used these forts as administrative complexes. Therefore even today, administrative buildings are still located inside such forts i.e. Galle and Matara forts. English rulers have modified existing or built new buildings to suit their purposes.

There is a Queens house too inside the fort which has had facilities of a five star hotel where former prime ministers used to stay. But it has been ruined by the war and Army is using a small undestroyed portion of it.

There is an exhibition room at the entrance. There is an officer from Dept. of Archaeology who will explain the historical factors.

Plan of the fort. It is a star shaped pentagon with five bastions at the corners. They have named bastions as 1. Friesland, 2. Utrecht, 3. Gelderland, 4. Holland and 5. Zeeland. One side facing lagoon and the other four sides protected by outer rampart, moat and inner rampart. Extent is 56 acres.

Plan of the fort. It is a star shaped pentagon with five bastions at the corners. They have named bastions as 1. Friesland, 2. Utrecht, 3. Gelderland, 4. Holland and 5. Zeeland. One side facing lagoon and the other four sides protected by outer rampart, moat and inner rampart. Extent is 56 acres.

Story of the fort

Story of the fort

Entrance

Entrance

Made up of Coral rock and limestone

Made up of Coral rock and limestone

Crossing the moat

Crossing the moat

Through the rampart

Through the rampart

Dutch have used even stone door frames of kovils and shrines to construct this as they wanted to destroy Hinduism

Dutch have used even stone door frames of kovils and shrines to construct this as they wanted to destroy Hinduism

Exhibition room of the fort. Wealth of knowledge of archaeology in north

Exhibition room of the fort. Wealth of knowledge of archaeology in north

Two ramparts and moat. One side bordering lagoon

Two ramparts and moat. One side bordering lagoon

Tower on one of the five corner bastions

Tower on one of the five corner bastions

A store room

A store room

Stores located around the rampart

Stores located around the rampart

More stores

More stores

Dutch church

Dutch church

Prison

Prison

Queens house

Queens house

Mass grave of 300 Army soldiers who lost their lives in the battle at Jaffna fort

Mass grave of 300 Army soldiers who lost their lives in the battle at Jaffna fort

Then we went back to Uthayan and had breakfast. Then after loading our baggages and bidding farewell to Mr. Ravi we continued the city tour. First we visited Nallur Kovil and then Jaffna railway station which looks so fantastic.

Nallur Kovil

Nallur Kovil

Giant wall

Giant wall

Jaffna railway

Jaffna railway

Travelling never been this easy

Travelling never been this easy

Halted

Halted

Clean and beautiful

Clean and beautiful

Active

Active

Gifted by BOC

Gifted by BOC

Then we witnessed some ancient buildings belonging to Dutch and English periods on the way. Then it was time to say good bye to Jaffna. Soon we were on the return journey with awesome memories of colorful Sri Lanka.

Unique architecture. Unfortunately I cannot recall what it is.

Unique architecture. Unfortunately I cannot recall what it is.

Burned Kachcheri building of Jaffna

Burned Kachcheri building of Jaffna

Huge building destroyed

Huge building destroyed

Great architecture in ruins

Great architecture in ruins

On the way, a brand new station

On the way, a brand new station

Colombo is few hours away

Colombo is few hours away

Highway/Bus + Railway/Train

Highway/Bus + Railway/Train

On the way

On the way

Good bye Jaffna

Good bye Jaffna

The end of an awesome journey

The end of an awesome journey

 

The Hat-Trick of Climbing: Kirigalpoththa & Many Others…

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Year and Month 11-14 Apr, 2015
Number of Days 4
Crew Ana, Fritz, Dr. Deepani and Me
Accommodation The Cottage, Rozella
Transport By SUV and on foot.
Activities Hiking, Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Relaxation, etc…
Weather Excellent in the morning up to early afternoon and heavy rains that lasted about couple of hours in the late afternoon and evening.
Route Day 01

Malabe->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Kalugala->Hangarapitiya->Koththellena->Norton Bridge->Watawala->Rozella.

Day 02

Rozella->Horton Plains and back to Rozella.

Day 03

Rozella->Watawala->Norton Bridge->Kalaweldeniya->Dick Oya->Hatton->Rozella.

Day 04

Rozella->Colombo.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • The Road from Kalugala and Koththellena via Polpitiya and Hangarapitiya is terrible and avoid by all means if you travel in a car or a similar vehicle.
    • Alternatively, you could take the Norton Bridge Road and circle back to Koththellena.
    • Check on the weather before the journey.
    • You can compare this with my previous Kirigalpoththa Journeys here. (Kirigalpoththa Tour 1 & Kirigalpoththa Tour 2)
    • Help Save the Environment.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hi everyone! Hope you guys and gals are doing great and had a fabulous New Year. Anyway by the time you read this, it must be way past New Year, probably Vesak Festival as well. So let’s get on with the story. I guess the topic might have given you a clue as to what this is about. It all started with the holidays when I got a full week off but had nothing to do. All my traveling buddies were busy with the New Year preparations making it impossible for them to do any hikes.

This is when Ana called and asked if I would like to join him for a hike. Well, this is what you call being lucky and without so much as a second thought I jumped in. Well what would you do if it turned out to be a journey which you had done twice before within the last year? I don’t think many would have been fancy to take on that offer but not me. I don’t mind visiting the same place over and over again because everytime it’s a different experience. After all, we eat the same thing again and again, do the same boring things day after day so why not see and visit the same place every now and then, I keep asking myself.  So when he suggested to do the Kirigalpoththa Trail once again (for the third time within a year), I felt elated quite different from many others.

Day 01

So we set off on the wee hours of 11 April on our journey with plans to visit many other places. However unlike all our other journeys, we didn’t have a proper plan in place. We had three key places to visit but other than Kirigalpoththa, the rest was very sketchy. This time we had two other companions, Fritz (novice hiker), one of Ana’s friends and a naturao cum veterinary, Dr. Deepani, joining for the hike. We all got together and left for Kalugala around 4am.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Laxapana Ella, Koththellena.
  2. Rozella.
  3. Kirigalpoththa, Horton Plains.
  4. Aberdeen Ella, Kalaweldeniya.
  5. Martin Air Memorial, Norton Bridge.
  6. Norton Pond, Norton Bridge.
  7. Castlereigh Dam & Reservoir, Norwood.
  8. Sunset from Rozella.

Ok, here we go but not before we have some breakfast. Weerasiri Cafe passing Miriswatte on A4 before Avissawella is a good place to have a meal and they open by 5am.

Laxapana Ella

We reached Kalugala where the right turn will take you along B189 towards Norton and Maskeliya. However this forks once again after 1-2km at Bodhigira Junction. Check my report, Waterfall Festival, for more information and higher water levels. We took the right, rather straight road that goes via Polpitiya, Hangarapitiya and Koththellena. The condition of the road is terrible and better to stay away if you go in a car or similar vehicle. Alternatively you can take the left road (B189 – Kithulgala-Norton Bridge Road) which goes via Kehelwarawa, Morahenagama, Laxapana and Kiriwaneliya. This will circle around and then come to Koththellena.

However, the Koththellena lower road is very scenic compared to the other as it goes keeping the Seven Virgins to the right along the base. We reached Koththellena and took the cement steps to the left that lead to the base of the falls. You will also see the memorial located before Koththellena commemorating the victims of Martin Air but we didn’t bother to stop and I visited it during my previous visit.

Total Length – About 750m to the base.

Elevation Difference – 236m (877m – 641m)

GPS Location – Latitude 6.90047 // Longitude 80.50023

The cement steps are fully completed now with a hand railing making it easy. The steepness is so much and one would really appreciate it. Unfortunately the water levels were not so great but the relatively thin streak of water greatly enhanced the sheer height of her. Well, unlike last time, I could get to closer to the base. Here you go and look at the pictures.

Breath-taking...

Breath-taking…

Rugged looking Seven Virgins

Rugged looking Seven Virgins

Here we are

Here we are

Have to go down

Have to go down

The top

The top

Last time, it was fully covered with water

Last time, it was fully covered with water

Long and silky

Long and silky

Shallow base pool

Shallow base pool

Very tall and long legged

Very tall and long legged

Rocky top

Rocky top

The base

The base

Very little water to speak of

Very little water to speak of

Portrait

Portrait

Searching for breakfast

Searching for breakfast

The steps

The steps

Red

Red

Oh, hello!

Oh, hello!

Very tasty

Very tasty

Rozella

We took our leave and had a quick cup of plain tea flavored with ginger before heading to our base, Ana’s Nest in Rozella. After a wash, we sat down for a sumptuous meal. You wanna know what we had, don’t you? Well, here we go. See if you would like to have a similar meal.

Couldn't have asked for more

Couldn’t have asked for more

We all were dog tired, especially Ana, having driven all the way since the early hours. So, a bellyful meal was followed by a short nap. It was a treat to have been able to get away from the blood boiling heat of Colombo. It’s like being roasted on a spit over a never-ending fire.

After a dreamless sleep, a hot coffee was in order. Then it was time for some exercises for the lazy muscles. So we hit the estate road which is ideal for an afternoon stroll. The lush green tea plants smiled with us while a couple of birds sang to us. Most important of all, the Most Sacred Mountain looked upon us over the hills giving the blessings. About 100m into the walk, we came across a scary thing. Can you guess what it is? Probably Tony guessed it correct. It’s the terrifying sight of leopard pooh, grrrrrr. Just imagine having to witness leopard pooh so close to our home. We were thrilled and sacred at the same time.

The circular trail is closer to 1.5km and we took our time to enjoy the scenery and take in the mountain air to our tired and poisoned lungs. I guess it’s time you saw the pictures without me keeping you waiting from this awesome sight. Go on, enjoy them folks!

Our home

Our home

Where I slept

Where I slept

Many of them

Many of them

Oh, where did it spring from?

Oh, where did it spring from?

Ana taking a pic of leopard poo. This was only about 100m from our home

Ana taking a pic of leopard poo. This was only about 100m from our home

Dark clouds threatening us

Dark clouds threatening us

Typical estate work

Typical estate work

Not a healthy looking tea estate

Not a healthy looking tea estate

There's Sri Pada

There’s Sri Pada

What a lovely picture it makes

What a lovely picture it makes

Hey!

Hey!

Posing for the pic

Posing for the pic

The night slowly befell upon us bringing the dark from all over with a chilly wind forcing us indoors. There was a necklace of pearls glittering in the dark. I was worried somebody might steal it but I shouldn’t have for it was the lights flickering along the Hatton route to the pointed summit of Sri Pada. Would you like to see what it is like? Don’t let me stop you, go savor it.

The necklace of pearls

The necklace of pearls

Closer

Closer

The dinner tasted even better. A warm and a comfortable bed was waiting for me for which I duly obliged. Through the window I could see the diamond necklace hanging in the air. The sleep slowly took over my body and took it away to a faraway land for the night.

Nutritious

Nutritious

Day 02

Getting up at 3am out of a comfy and warm bed needs a lot of persuasion. The sleeping angels flatly refused to let me go but there was an even better girl summoning me. So I pushed the blanket out of the way and found Ana already up and about. A strong black coffee with a punchy sugar boost got me out of my trance and we got busy preparing for the big journey. Fritz had never been to the Kirigalpoththa before so this was a big moment for him. Dr. Deepani had been there a long time ago so this was as good as going for the first time.

Chick Peas was boiling in the pot and we were waiting for the eggs to make sandwiches. It was like an anthill everyone busily chipping in. Finally we got everything nice and tidy before leaving our home around 4.30am, a good half hour later than we liked. However we didn’t know at the time that it would cost us dearly and cause some uncomfort at the end. Driving in the early morning feeling the chill in our bones is not a healthy experience so we kept the windows up and close.

Kirigalpoththa Trail

It was around 6.30am when we arrived at the ticket counter to find the parking area is full of vehicles. Every one of them had foreigners except us. We were the only local group and thanks to Dr. D’s prompt action, we managed to get the tickets soon. On the way to the main car park, we saw a little Sambar was being fed by its mother but the little fella was right under the mother Sambar’s tummy making it impossible to get a clear picture.

At 6.58am, we arrived at the car park and got down to work on the boiled and tempered Chick Peas. Having made a big dent in the portion, we got ready to begin the hike. Having shown our permit and the bags to the checking counter, we hit the trail just before 7.30am, still that half hour late. Just remember to inform the checking counter of your destination as it’d make things easier should you happen to come across any misfortune. Also, it’s imperative you inform them after the journey of your safe return. So, enough of all that, let’s make a move. Oh, forgot to tell you that this was my 20th visit to the Horton Plains since 2000. Well, little did I know that I’d get to celebrate it in an unprecedented way.

Windmills in Ambewela

Windmills in Ambewela

Zoomed

Zoomed

Sun struggling to come out

Sun struggling to come out

Finally out on the cotton wool sky

Finally out on the cotton wool sky

We were waiting for the tickets

We were waiting for the tickets

Do you see the Sri Pada?

Do you see the Sri Pada?

If you look closer, there's the cub underneath feeding

If you look closer, there’s the cub underneath feeding

And they ran away

And they ran away

Good Morning!

Good Morning!

Beautiful landscapes

Beautiful landscapes

Breakfast

Breakfast

Climbing Uphill

It’d been raining heavily over the past few days, especially in the evenings. The grassy bit of trail was like a sponge cake as a result. The invasive Eulex plants seemed to have grown further. About a 100m-stretch of the trail is now nearly blocked by them making the hikers to take a detour around them. This is worse than a cancer. I can remember in the past there were projects carried out by schools, environmental groups, etc. to remove them and their efforts paid dividends. Apparently it’s the time once again somebody did something to combat this problem. Well, here is something the Lakdasun can do for our next project similar to the one we did at Muthurajawela. This is gonna be even more important.

The Sambars kept roaming around us but keeping their distance. Agra Bopath looked greener than ever while the rest of the plains were colored with many shades of green, yellow, brownish red and the blue sky with cotton wool sky completed the show. We encountered our first and only leopard pooh passing through the first forest patch. “Tony would have loved it”, said Ana. The path was soggy in many places and we got our shoes muddy. We then came to the big stream that flows across the path and rested for a while.

Crossing it presented many problems as she had more water than my previous visits. After maneuvering a bit, we crossed over to the other side and started the walk along the path bordered by the tiny bamboo plants. Now the sun was fully up and had started lighting up the open terrain. However he failed to bring about the freshness of the real Horton Plains due to the continuous rains. That gloominess hung in the air so thick you could have leaned on it. The forest paths were soggy and darker than my previous two visits. Nearly all of the Nelu trees were gone with their colorful flowers. Nevertheless, the odd ones still kept trying to defy the nature.

Ok, Ana found it was easy to practice his triple jumps this time as there were plenty of muddy patches to cross. Fritz, the novice hiker, kept motivating us when it should have been the other way around. Dr. D had no problem at all to encounter the difficulties and looking back, I feel it was me who found it tougher despite having been here twice before. We arrived at the base of the Kirigalpoththa around 10am, having made very good ground. We were feeling mighty hungry and decided to work on the egg sandwiches before the final push. Until we do that, you enjoy the pictures up to now. It’d been nice had we more sandwiches to share with you but we have about 16 of them (barely enough for us). So it’s better you find something to eat before coming for the last bit.

The Farr Inn

The Farr Inn

We're on the way

We’re on the way

Eulex covered with dew

Eulex covered with dew

See the color combination

See the color combination

A group of them far away

A group of them far away

This is some medicinal plant, I've forgotten the name

This is some medicinal plant, I’ve forgotten the name

Here our path, Agra Bopath to the right

Here our path, Agra Bopath to the right

Red

Red

Dead tree arts

Dead tree arts

With the half moon

With the half moon

One and only leopard poo we saw

One and only leopard poo we saw

Reflection

Reflection

Can you read the insignia? It's Fly Dubai

Can you read the insignia? It’s Fly Dubai

The popular stream

The popular stream

Well?

Well?

Here shooting away

Here shooting away

One of my favorite things to photograph

One of my favorite things to photograph

Crossed the stream

Crossed the stream

Pinky

Pinky

Miles of open terrain

Miles of open terrain

Saw something similar during Maliboda Trail

Saw something similar during Maliboda Trail

Butter Cup - Another invasive plant despite the sweet look

Butter Cup – Another invasive plant despite the sweet look

Triple jump champion getting warmed up

Triple jump champion getting warmed up

Orchids

Orchids

Wow

Wow

Plenty of little bamboo

Plenty of little bamboo

Path through them

Path through them

Not Gotukola

Not Gotukola

Spiky, this actually helped us fasten a torn sleeve

Spiky, this actually helped us fasten a torn sleeve

There goes Ana, the first jump

There goes Ana, the first jump

I guess I told you that I like them

I guess I told you that I like them

Agra Bopath

Agra Bopath

Some more

Some more

Different one

Different one

The usual Bovitiya

The usual Bovitiya

He was too fast for the camera

He was too fast for the camera

Jumped

Jumped

Pair of them

Pair of them

Some more

Some more

Mushroom tree

Mushroom tree

Looks like jelly, ain't it?

Looks like jelly, ain’t it?

Before the steep part

Before the steep part

“Alright, let’s make a move”, said Fritz and make a move was we did. The lime flavored drink gave us a liquid boost after a hearty meal. We started the climb. The path was overgrown but not impassable. Now that we were in the steep stretch, going was very slow with continuous breaks. The higher we climbed, the better the view became making us yearn to get to the top. Finally we arrived at the first observation point about 150-200m before the summit. Remember, here is in fact the best view point. The summit doesn’t have much of a view of the surroundings. We stopped for some water and a few massaging minutes for our feet.

Dozens of pictures were taken but as I said earlier, the views were not top of the range yet enough for the casual observer. Thick grey clouds loomed in the distance obscuring the sun and the view. We decided to make it to the summit without wasting much time. We chose as usual the path along the forest, not the risky one along the rocky ledge.

It took us about 15 mins to get to the top. The summit covered with tiny guava trees doesn’t offer much view but you won’t be disappointed, lemme assure you. Fritz and Dr. D were over the moon while Ana looked on as if this is sometimes he does every other day. We all sat around the summit for a group picture. The gong of the Dayagama Factory could be heard and we all decided not to be late to get down. So after the photographic session, we decided to call it a day and head down.

Up we go

Up we go

View getting clearer

View getting clearer

Lovely

Lovely

I simply love this too

I simply love this too

This fellow was very tiny, smaller than a 25-cent coin (if you remember that coin)

This fellow was very tiny, smaller than a 25-cent coin (if you remember that coin)

"Sudu Binara" endemic plant

“Sudu Binara” endemic plant

The path goes around

The path goes around

Slab Rock Falls can be seen if you look closer to the right

Slab Rock Falls can be seen if you look closer to the right

Waiting for us

Waiting for us

Our destination

Our destination

Closer

Closer

Here we are at the first viewing point

Here we are at the first viewing point

Dark clouds somewhat ruined the beauty

Dark clouds somewhat ruined the beauty

Here's the rocky slope

Here’s the rocky slope

Those guavas are very tasty if you happen to find a ripe one

Those guavas are very tasty if you happen to find a ripe one

Once again

Once again

To the peak

To the peak

Looking back

Looking back

Here comes

Here comes

Here we are

Here we are

View all around

View all around

The team at the summit, look at Fritz who kept imitating Usain Bolt. Pic by. Ana

The team at the summit, look at Fritz who kept imitating Usain Bolt. Pic by. Ana

We met another group of people coming up as we were climbing down. There must have been a dozen or so guys laboring up. The clouds kept getting thicker and darker warning about the imminent rains. We decided to step up the pace because if rained, those soggy and muddy stretches will be even more difficult to cross. We came up to the main stream without a problem and stopped for about 10 mins to get our breath. This break too cost us some vital time. About a little over half km, without any more rumbling, it started to rain.

We had no choice but to keep going. Dr. D produced an umbrella (don’t know how she managed that) and Fritz had his jacket which was waterproof. I too had flimsy remains of a disposable raincoat which I borrowed from Amila during Eli Hatha. It kept the upper body away from the rains but Ana got wet as he had no protection. The rain kept up until we reached the safety of Farr Inn around 2.20pm. It was that half hour delay that cost us and made us wet. So it’s really important on days like these to start and finish as early as possible. I went and informed the checking counter about our return before heading to our vehicle. There was a homeless Sambar (probably chased away from the house by his wife) begging for something but we didn’t comply for his disappointment. Showing his back to us, the fella went away trying the rest of the tourists.

Bunch of them

Bunch of them

Going down from the first view point

Going down from the first view point

Got lucky to find him

Got lucky to find him

We were there

We were there

Rain is imminent and we hurried on

Rain is imminent and we hurried on

Ready for another jump

Ready for another jump

Here goes

Here goes

Kept looking for a Rhino Horned Lizard but none to be found

Kept looking for a Rhino Horned Lizard but none to be found

Bamboo

Bamboo

Back near the stream, it started rain after another 15mins or so

Back near the stream, it started rain after another 15mins or so

Wet Sambar looking for something to eat

Wet Sambar looking for something to eat

Giving us the tongue

Giving us the tongue

Looking at us from the corner of his eyes

Looking at us from the corner of his eyes

Had enough of us

Had enough of us

We drove home and surprisingly there were many more vehicles heading to Horton Plains even after 3.30-4pm. All of them were locals and we kept wondering what they were going to see at that late hour and in heavy rains.

We made it home around 5pm and chatted about the day’s events after a warm bath. I spent a little more time taking the diamond necklace on my lenses which was glittering in the dark. I wish I could be on the summit of Sri Pada then.  The dinner was delicious as usual and we went to sleep after a successful journey. Tomorrow would bring more exciting experiences but let’s see what they are later. Go get some sleep coz my eye lids got some heavy chunks of lead on them and can’t keep them open anymore. Good night folks!

Omelets Pizza, another of our signature dishes

Omelets Pizza, another of our signature dishes

Followed by Dinner

Followed by Dinner

Day 03

Good morning everyone, it’s the New Year eve. You must be busy getting ready for the new year but here we are up and about. It’s just gone 4am and we had our coffee while contemplating the plans for the day. Finally after a few cups of strong and scalding coffee we came to an agreement. We’d go to Aberdeen, Castlereigh and Dickoya Club, in that order. Looks like a good plan, doesn’t it? Well let’s go out and see. But, please wait, we’ve gotta have some breakfast before.

Good Morning Sri Pada!

Good Morning Sri Pada!

Closer

Closer

Gorgeous sky

Gorgeous sky

Some Kiribath for breakfast

Some Kiribath for breakfast

Aberdeen Falls

Ok, we’re ready, if you are. Or should I say something like “Naan Ready – Neenga Rediyah?”. Fritz decided to stay behind and in his words, chill out. Whatever it meant, we decided not to pursue any further and left him to look after the bungalow. We drove to Rozella and then took the Sri Pada Road off A7 at 58th km post. It’s 8km from here to Norton. We turn to the right and drove towards Laxapana. After a short distance is the Kalaweldeniya Road to your right. Take this (unlike the last time closer to 18 months before) carpeted road for about 4-4.5km to reach the falls, rather the trail head.

We met a family of giant squirrels playing around and managed to take a few pictures. After that we arrived at the trail to our right and got down. The path is very steep but thankfully there are cement steps similar to Laxapana but not the same quality. Laxapana path is maintained properly as there are houses along it. It’s completely the opposite at Aberdeen with no houses anywhere near. Leeches kept slithering around the cement steps hoping for a free meal. They in fact managed to suck a decent amount of blood out of us.

Not being able to take it nice and slow was really tough due to them. To make matters worse, the not-so-used path was slippery as well. We treaded carefully not wanting to end up at a hospital when the New Year was at the door frame. I can still remember how it was like last time. The villagers then claimed it was the highest amount of water in decades while the roar of the waterfall could be heard so far up the path.  We finally arrived at the viewing point and decided to roam around. She’s as tall as Laxapana with very little water.

The eroded rocky surface almost looked pre-historic with many strange shapes and colors. Fierce sun made it quite uncomfortable especially to take pictures. After a while, as if heard our pleas, he hid behind a thick cloud giving us a more appropriate window both to photograph and enjoy. Amid vivid colors, she looked absolutely stunning falling like silk to the base pool. This is what I usually refer as kissable. We spent as long as we could enjoy this beauty unfolding before us. Finally, it was time for us to go see what other nearby attractions were. Good bye sweet heart and you can bet last drop of your water that I would be back.

Oh hello!

Oh hello!

Looking for his partner

Looking for his partner

Got irritated by our intrusion

Got irritated by our intrusion

Just look at the amount of water when this was taken – We saw a similar view but didn’t have a chance to picture like this

Just look at the amount of water when this was taken – We saw a similar view but didn’t have a chance to picture like this

Viewing platform, last time it was impossible to get to it

Viewing platform, last time it was impossible to get to it

Ooops

Ooops

This is nothing at all compared to last time

This is nothing at all compared to last time

Hitting the base

Hitting the base

Portrait

Portrait

The top

The top

The base

The base

Look at the eroded rocky surface

Look at the eroded rocky surface

This one is normally known as "Thal Ataya"

This one is normally known as “Thal Ataya”

Alien?

Alien?

Any idea what this is?

Any idea what this is?

Whatever it is, a good actor coz now it's pretending to be dead

Whatever it is, a good actor coz now it’s pretending to be dead

Well not really

Well not really

Martin Air Memorial & the Norton Pond

We retraced the route and arrived at Norton Bridge. Ana wanted to fill the diesel and I took the liberty of wondering about. First I saw the Memorial of the DC-10 tragedy which occurred more than three decades ago. One of the tires is placed by the road to commemorate the 191 lives that were lost in one of the worst aviation disasters near the police station. There are many stories about the incident and I don’t think this is the time to go into them. Just take a look at it from my angle coz I’m sure most of you must have come across this either in person or through a similar post. After that, come let’s go see the Norton Pond. Now don’t get alarmed if you haven’t heard the name. Those who have passed through Norton Bridge must have seen this without knowing the real name. So if this is new to you, lemme do the introduction.

“Facts about the Norton Pond…

Owner: CEB

Purpose: Hydropower Generation

Type: Concrete Gravity

Power Generation: 50 MW

Dam Crest Level: 873.00 masl

Dam Crest Length: 103m

Full Supply Level: 866.85 masl

Minimum Operating Level: 863.80 masl

Storage (at FSL): 0.39 MCM

Surface Area: 0.15 sq. km

Catchment Area (Direct): 19.4 sq. km

Construction Started: 1924

Construction Completed: 1948 Sep”

This is something new for me. It looked nice and placid. This is fed by the excess water from the Castlereigh Reservoir. After a few minutes, we left along Hatton Road parallel to the water stream which feeds the Norton Pond hoping to see Castlereigh Dam & Reservoir. First, enjoy the pictures of Norton Pond.

Here it is

Here it is

More than 4 decades ago

More than 4 decades ago

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The Dam

The Dam

Closer

Closer

Through the spill gates

Through the spill gates

Where water is released when it's too much

Where water is released when it’s too much

Good looking

Good looking

Time to go

Time to go

But not before this

But not before this

Castlereigh Dam & Reservoir

We drove along the road which ran through tea estates. Every house looked busy with New Year preparations and there was hardly any other vehicle. The kids were playing around but stopped for a while to wave at us. Everyone seemed to be in good spirits. Passing Osborne Estate, we finally arrived at the Castlereigh Dam. Letting Ana drive along, I got off deciding to walk along the dam. There are remains of army check points and sandbagged bunkers, signs of the difficulty time we all faced.

Places like these were out of bounds for the general public in the past and taking pictures was just a dream but not anymore. I enjoyed every inch of the over 100m dam taking picture after picture. The reservoir looked huge and the colors were simply mesmerizing. I heard that the water of most reservoirs is green due to the fast growing algae. Their growth has increased by many times due to the excessive usage of fertilizers for the farms and tea estates. Those fertilizers reach the reservoirs having washed down with the rains. See what you think about this.

We then drove on and before merging with the Bogawanthalawa-Hatton Road, we stopped to take pictures of an ancient looking church. Ana had been to it before but wanted to take a few pictures from where we were. This is the Christ Church, Warleigh, Dickoya. Here they are for you to enjoy.

On the dam

On the dam

The excess water goes to Norton Pond

The excess water goes to Norton Pond

Closer look

Closer look

Is that an elevator?

Is that an elevator?

Lush greenery

Lush greenery

It doesn't apply anymore

It doesn’t apply anymore

The greenish slime I told you about

The greenish slime I told you about

Endless

Endless

Probably used by the CEB

Probably used by the CEB

Green all around including water

Green all around including water

Hatton-Osborne bus

Hatton-Osborne bus

There's a beautiful and old church near here

There’s a beautiful and old church near here

Up there

Up there

Can you see?

Can you see?

There it is, couldn't visit this time but maybe later

There it is, couldn’t visit this time but maybe later

This is the Christ Church, Warleigh, Dickoya

This is the Christ Church, Warleigh, Dickoya

Our next stop was Dickoya Club which had been built during the colonial era. Unfortunately they were closed for the New Year until the 16 April. So we had to turn around with nothing to show for the trouble.

Very old club. Pic by Ana

Very old club. Pic by Ana

On our way, we passed the Hatton town bustling with people. We managed to make it home just before 1pm and found Fritz been busy drying out the wet clothes and shoes from Kirigalpoththa. Lunch was delicious and we wanted another map before anything. Don’t worry; you will see the pics of our Japanese styled cuttlefish dish too. Now that my Bundy is full, I’m gonna take a nap and suggest you do the same before coming back. Let’s see what the evening would bring.

Japanese styled cuttle fish

Japanese styled cuttle fish

Followed by lunch

Followed by lunch

And the dessert

And the dessert

Sunset from Rozella

I woke to find the mist had been and left. There was a bit of it stubbornly hanging in the air. I came out to find Ana already up and the inevitable cup of coffee in hand. It was closer to 5pm. After a few minutes, we decided to go for an evening stroll. The chill clung to our bare skin lovingly as we walked along. Seven Virgins were to our immediate right but it was the sight of Sri Pada in the evening that stole our breath.

The sky was so colorful, with yellow, orange, crimson and purple mixed in a way that looked like a professional artist had been working with his crayons hard. To the edge of the Seven Virgins sun began his descend after a busy day and the clouds were illuminated by the final rays. We were mesmerized by what we saw. Apparently you don’t necessarily have to be on top a mountain or at a beach to witness a beautiful sunset. I saw a similar one between Palmadulla & Ratnapura when returning after a journey. Well, I’ll let you see what we experienced without a delay. However, just remember it’s nowhere near like you see it with your own eyes.

Going for an evening walk

Going for an evening walk

Sun setting slowly

Sun setting slowly

Cloudy and colorful sky

Cloudy and colorful sky

Almost dark

Almost dark

Seven Virgins beyond

Seven Virgins beyond

At the last bit

At the last bit

Closer

Closer

Let's go

Let’s go

The Best Mountain in the World

The Best Mountain in the World

Can you see the tiny blood ready pearl?

Can you see the tiny blood ready pearl?

Look at this

Look at this

Amazing, ain't it?

Amazing, ain’t it?

Ok, have to go now

Ok, have to go now

We came back home and sat down for yet another delicious dinner. Gosh, the New Year is almost on top of us but we needed the beauty of our sleep. The lights of Hatton Trail looked more beautiful when I hit the bed. Before I go to dreamland, lemme wish you all a very happy new year full of safe and happy traveling.

Tiny peals hung in the air

Tiny peals hung in the air

Closer

Closer

Our dinner

Our dinner

Day 04

Good morning and happy New Year once again guys! I’m really excited coz the New Year is always a great time. We got busy with making breakfast as the Nonagathaya started at 7.23am. We all wanted to be home before the New Year Dawn around 1pm. We prepared or rather invented a new kind of burger. Kurakkan mixed Roti Burger with Omelet and Dates Chutney. Packing it, we left our home for the past four days, Ana’s Nest around 6am. Well, lemme show you our new invented recipe.

Giant omelet

Giant omelet

Kurakkan Roti

Kurakkan Roti

Ready to make burgers

Ready to make burgers

We had our breakfast on the way before 7.23am duly obliging the rituals. The road was so isolated save for the odd vehicle with tourists going probably to Nuwara Eliya. There were firecrackers going off all along. Finally, we arrived home around 9.30am well before the rest of the auspicious times.

So, there ends Sri’s another fairy tale. Well I’ve got a couple of Panos as well.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Hope you had a grand New Year and ready to face the rest of it positively. The next fairy tale will be about our heritage so be ready for something spectacular.

Take care and keep traveling. This is Sri saying goodbye.

Along the Footsteps of Our Ancestors – Pulathisipura Chapter 1…

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Year and Month 16 Apr, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Athula and Me
Accommodation New Ranketha Rest, Polonnaruwa
Transport By Car and on foot.
Activities Archaeology, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent except for a shower between 3pm and 4pm. Nevertheless it was extremely hot with temperatures as high as 39 degrees.
Route Pitakotte->Rajagiriya->Dematagoda->Katunayake (via E3)->Awariwatte->Minuwangoda->Kurunegala (No. 5 Bus Route)->Dambulla->Habarana->Polonnaruwa.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Check on the weather before travelling.
  • Ranketha Hotel is a good place a little away from the town center with comfortable rooms with AC and hot water. You can contact them on 027-4929078/86, 0766-188199 or 0712-609691 (Mr. Thomas).
  • It’s essential to do a pre-plan before the journey jotting down the list of things for you to see. For those who can’t bother or don’t have the time, check out this link on Amazing Lanka.
  • Unlike A’Pura, nearly all the Archeological Attractions are located within a dedicated area where it’s easy to travel and visit.
  • The Archeology Site is open from 7am to the public.
  • If you travel on foot, entrance is free of charge and by a vehicle, it’ll be Rs. 50/- for the vehicle. (I find this is too lenient and cheap. These kinda things shouldn’t be shown to the public, except the school kids, for free or such a low rate.)
  • Check the instructions given and displayed next to the archaeological remains before entering or picturing them.
  • You have to remove shoes and hats to enter most of the places. So be mindful about it coz most of the people enter them without knowing.
  • Please, please don’t try to touch the Stone Pillars, Walls or anything coz they’re wasted away at a faster rate as a result of this. Enjoy them and take pics but keep your distance from them.
  • It’s prohibited to use Flash when taking pics inside the Thivanka Image House as it damages the already peeling away painitings.
  • Don’t leave anything behind such as plastic bottles, biscuit & toffee wrappers, skins of fruits, etc. around the place as they attract so many monkeys which destroy the archaeological sites and may even harm the visitors.
  • Carry plenty of water and Vitamin C supplements.
  • Be careful if and when bathing in canals and tanks. Always follow the signs and check with the villagers before jumping in.
  • Don’t at any time feed the monkeys or any animal in or out of the area. Follow the same rule wherever you go. Those wild animals know and have to find their own meals from the forests not be fed by us.
  • This is intended purely as a guide to the Archaeological Attractions in Polonnaruwa. I hope our children will benefit from this.
  • Protect the Nature and don’t litter.
  • There’s some charity work should anyone is interested. Most of the information boards are peeling off and almost invisible. If someone can sponsor to redo them, it’d be greatly beneficial for the public.
  • A detailed map of the Archaeological Site will be really useful. There are vendors who sell books which have the map in details.
  • A very big thank-you to the people including the archeology officials for keeping this site remarkably well and for all the restoration work. May you have the resources and funds to keep up your good work.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Lanka, a country that has seen everything for more than 3000 years, boasts plenty of things worth seeing in this tiny space of 65,000+ sq. km of land. We have practically everything a nature loving person is craving for, from mountains to rivers to waterfalls to forests to farmlands to ancient ruins and so much more scattered all around. There’s not a square foot of land or even the sea which can be ignored. That’s what we at Lakdasun are attempting to do, to show you the value of our country and where you can go see the magic of the Mother Nature unfolding before your eyes. Not only that, we also try to show you the Marvels of the Ancient History created by our own ancestors when the rest of the civilizations across the globe were nothing but barren landscapes.

Moving on to the story, I guess I’ve got to go see some of those creations by our ancestors as most of the time it’s the wonders of Mother Nature I have been visiting. When it comes to ancient creations or ruins as many of us call them, we are unbeatable. No other country in the whole world can claim they have more things to show for than we have. We’ve many things found all around the country built many years ago that even the archaeology department finds it difficult to cope with. Unfortunately for us, they are heavily understaffed and underfunded making it extremely hard for them to keep an eye out for the excavated ruins and maintain them. This further hampers their efforts to dig other unexplored areas to unearth many more things built by our ancestors.

After the Portuguese invasion in 1505, followed by Dutch and the English till 1948; for over four centuries, most of our treasures were stolen by them and taken to their countries. Even to date, they are shamelessly being displayed in their museums and our government is helpless to try and retrieve them. The proud nature, creativity and all the other skills of our countrymen have since been shot to pieces. Our culture was slowly blended with the useless foreign ways making it a hybrid one which is far from healthy. We were divided according to our races, religions and anything imaginable so that they could control us easily. We’re suffering now as a result of those wicked actions. Unfortunately, the politicians paid little attention to these things after the independence making the problems increase dramatically.

Well, I guess I’ve unburdened myself somewhat and before this turns into a socio-political-economic article, I’ll divert to the story at hand. Many people have selected areas where they like to explore. Some want to go see Waterfalls, others only interested in Hiking, and a few rare types are keen on seeing the ancient things. If you ask me, I’d say I’m cosmopolitan when it comes to traveling. I’ve no selected places or things that I love to see. True, I’m very much passionate about waterfalls, yet when it comes to traveling, I can live with practically anything from mountains to waterfalls to caves to archeology to etc.

So after a year of mainly visiting waterfalls (I’ve got 17 Tour de Waterfalls), as the rains eased I decided to change focus and do something else. It’s been a long time since I wanted to go visit Polonnaruwa but kept getting postponed due to this or that. Finally, after a long vacation at Rozella I put in my suggestion to Atha about a quick 2-day trip to Polonnaruwa. As he too was on holiday and had nothing better to do than visiting relations, we agreed on 16-17 April. The sun was ferocious making it a punishment to stay at home during the day. The temperatures were nearly always in mid-thirties so the thought of going to the dry zone in Polonnaruwa was unfathomable. However, we were not gonna be shied away from that. So finally we decided to go enjoy this beauty to the fullest and bring you a detailed report on her treasures unearthed so far.

Unlike other archeological cities, it’s so much easier to see things in Polonnaruwa as they are located in a small area within walking distance; that is if you don’t mind walking about 4-6km from this to the other. There are around 40-50 significant places you can visit within the whole premises. It’s well signposted and maintained by the archeological officials. The road inside are good and can be driven very easily. They even have dedicated car parks where you can leave them and go see the ruins. This Ancient City of Polonnaruwa is declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO.

However, on a personal note, I think allowing the vehicles to enter the premises should be prohibited coz the noise of them and the toxic and chemicals released by them could be harmful to the historical relics. Instead, we could use electric golf cart like vehicles or foot cycles.  It’ll be more environmentally friendly if we adopted such things.

So we booked the Ranketha Hotel over the phone (thanks to Niroshan) and left around 4.30am for Polonnaruwa. The drive was largely uninterrupted and we drove along the Katunayake Highway then followed the road to Kurunegala, Dambulla and Habarana. Most of the shops were closed due to New Year so we had trouble finding a place for breakfast. Finally passing Digampathaha we found a place by the road. They were making hot hot Roti with even hotter Lunu Miris and tasty Dhal Curry. We ate a few with some rice before continuing our journey. Sigiriya and Pidurangala rocks were rising to the sky to our right beyond the Digampathaha Sanctuary. I got a sudden urge to once again climb that majestic rock.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Minneriya Reservoir.
  2. Giritale Tank.
  3. Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

We drove past the Minneriya National Park and stopped to take a few picture of the reservoir which was full due to the intermittent rains. Here are some pictures for you to see.

First stop

First stop

Water levels up

Water levels up

Distant view

Distant view

Trying to make a living

Trying to make a living

Water was overflowing

Water was overflowing

Usually this area is a large grassland but now full of water

Usually this area is a large grassland but now full of water

Hi sexy ladies!

Hi sexy ladies!

We continued along the A11 towards Polonnaruwa but met another beautiful and breath-taking tank once again among the thousands of them in North Central. This time it was Giritale Tank which is believed to have been built by King Agbo II sometime in the 7th century. It was a sight worth seeing and taking pictures so without so much as a second thought we stopped to find a typical watery bird (Kirala in Sinhala) looking for something to eat walking along the road. Here you go, check them out and see would you too have stopped?

Giritale, gorgeous than ever

Giritale, gorgeous than ever

On the hunt

On the hunt

Oh hi!

Oh hi!

Portrait

Portrait

Islands in the middle adding colors

Islands in the middle adding colors

Window

Window

Having mesmerized, we went straight to the hotel and leaving our baggage, returned straight to the archeological site. This is when I got another shock. Entering into the archaeological site is free for the locals where as they only have to pay Rs. 50/- per vehicle. This is something I believe should be changed. I don’t think any of this should be shown for free even for the locals. They must charge something from them and can give an exemption for the school kids in uniform.

Whatever you see or get for free has no value at all. This only allows people who have really purpose or means to just go and stray about making at times a nuisance to the genuine travelers. I hope they’ll take this into consideration in future. Before we go into the details, I’ll just show you one of the monkeys posing. In fact the archeological site is plagued with them. They’ve been in there since the human occupation and continue to thrive on.

Common sight in the archeological site

Common sight in the archeological site

Ok, let’s get down to business coz I’ve got so many pictures to show you on the first day. We first drove towards the Inner Citadel. Mr. Thomas at the Ranketha Hotel said it’d only take 3 hours to see everything there is to see. If only he knew that Atha and I walked for more than 15 hours in the unforgiving sun with nothing but a bottle of water. Well, he’s right in a way coz if you just drive through or ride a bicycle, it can be covered in 3 hours but not the way I planned and did it. Even after the 15 hours, we had covered maybe a little over three quarters of the documented sites. Let’s first check what we saw on the first day.

Things we saw inside the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa

Inside the Citadel: 

  1. Stone Scripture at the North Entrance to the Citadel.
  2. King Parakramabahu Council Chamber.
  3. Kumara Pokuna.
  4. King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace.
  5. King Vijayabahu’s Palace.

Off Parakrama Samudraya: 

  1. Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila.
  2. Pothgul Viharaya.
  3. Parakrama Samudraya.

Outer Citadel: 

  1. Shiva Devalaya No. 1.

Dalada Maluwa: 

  1. Thuparama.
  2. Nissanka Latha Mandapaya.
  3. Bodhisattva Statue.
  4. Wester Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.
  5. Velikkara Tamil Inscription.
  6. Atadage.
  7. Hatadage.
  8. Watadage.
  9. Galpotha (Stone Inscription).
  10. Sathmahal Prasada.
  11. Pohoya Geya aka Chapter House.
  12. Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.

Outer Citadel: 

  1. Shiva Devalaya No. 2.
  2. Unnamed Ruins.
  3. Pabalu Vehera.

On the way to the Hotel: 

  1. Sunset at Parakrama Samudraya.

An impressive list this is, isn’t it? Wait till you get the Chapter 2 and see the complete set of things we saw within two days. However, we all know our ancestors built these things and left them for us to see. If it wasn’t for our archeologists and the department, these things wouldn’t have been protected like this for us to go see. Most of the buildings had been either burnt or destroyed by the stinking South Indian invaders and then left to be overgrown by the trees.

The archeology department later on had excavated them and restored to the former glory as best as they can. If you buy one of those books being sold at the premises, you can see the state of all those historical relics before restoration. Even today, they go to great pains to keep them protected. So you’re kindly requested to help them do it and do your bit so that these things will be there for the generations to come.

Let me introduce the rulers of Polonnaruwa coz it’s important to try and know them before we go into details. They are the ones who built and destroyed this great city.

Rulers of Polonnaruwa including the South Indian invaders: Kingdom of Polonnaruwa (1056-1212)

 

“Chola” Invaders – South Indian Invaders – 1017-1070

King Vijayabahu I – 1056-1111

King Jayabahu I – Brother & Chief Minister of Vijayabahu I – 1110-1111

King Wickramabahu I – Son of Vijayabahu I – 1111-1132

King Gajabahu II – Son of Wickramabahu I – 1132-1153

King Parakramabahu I – Parakramabahu the Great – 1153-1186

  • The father of Parakramabahu, Manabharana was the son of Mitta, who was the sister of Vijayabahu I. The mother of Parakramabahu was Rathnavalee who was a daughter of Vijayabahu I. He’s the grandson of Vijayabahu I.

King Vijayabahu II – Son of Parakramabahu’s sister – 1186-1187

King Mahinda VI – Arrived from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1187

  • He reigned as the king only for 5 days.

King Nissanka Malla – Son-in-law of Parakramabahu I – 1187-1196

  • King Nissanka Malla is accused of claiming other kings’ work as his and boasting about them by leaving many stone inscriptions all around.

King Weerabahu I – Son of Nissanka Malla – 1196

King Wickramabahu II – Younger brother of Nissanka Malla – 1196

King Chodaganga – A nephew of Nissanka Malla – 1196-1197

Queen Leelawathie – Wife (Widow) of Parakramabahu I – 1197-1200

King Sahasa Malla – A brother of Nissanka Malla – 1200-1202

Queen Kalyanawathie – Second wife of Nissanka Malla – 1202-1208

King Dharmasoka – Was made king at the age of 3 months – 1208-1209

  • He was made king by the General Ayasmantha after disposing Queen Kalyanawathie. He was later succeeded by his father Anikanga.

 

King Anikanga – Father of Dharmasoka – 1209

Queen Leelawathie – Second time – 1209-1210

Lokeshwara – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1210-1211

Queen Leelawathie – Third time – 1211-1212

Parakrama Pandya – Invader from Pandya Kingdom, India – 1212-1215

Kalinga Magha – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1215-1236

 

If you’ve got familiar, we can go on. It’s very interesting to know how the name came about to this city. The ancient name is Pulathisirpura or Pulathisinuwara which is derived after the Sage Guardian Pulasthi. The name Polonnaruwa is believed to be a combination of “Pulun” (Cotton Wool) and “Maruwa” (Exchange). Now let’s go see what this glamorous city has to offer.

Inside the Citadel

We drove on and parked our vehicle among many others. To my surprise there were so many tourists both local and foreign. Vendors were busy trying to attract their attention away from the relics. Guides kept talking louder giving all the information about the things and the history trying to outsmart the fellow rivals. It was so hot and people paid little attention to what the guides had to say. Instead they were concentrating on keeping out of the scorching heat. Some people kept punching on their mobiles and tabs checking their Facebook accounts not giving a toss about the things in front of them.

We parked our vehicle and walked back to the entrance to the citadel to begin our thorough and systematic exploration of the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa. So let’s get started.

Stone Scripture @ the North Entance

As soon as you enter the citadel (turning to your right); you’ll see this at the entrance to the left of it. None of the tourists bothered to stop here or check what this was. They all wanted to go see the Gal Viharaya, nothing else. Let’s see what it says before going and see what it really looks like:

Polonnarua Slab Inscription at the North Entrance to the Citadel.

Reign: Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD)

Period: 12th Century AD

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Sanskrit & Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

Inscription includes a description of virtues of King Nissanka Malla and mentions that the members of the Kalinga Royal Dynasty who protected its subjects with good governance were the most suitable to be kings. It also mentions persons from the Kalinga Royalty should be the kings of Sri Lanka and those of Govi Caste and non-Buddhist princes from Cola or Kerala are not fit to claim legacy to the throne. The people who show allegiance to those who have no right to Royalty will be treated as traitors.”

Entering

Entering

Boundary wall

Boundary wall

North Entrance

North Entrance

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here it is but not many people take the trouble to stop by

Here it is but not many people take the trouble to stop by

Closer

Closer

Carving on the base of the back

Carving on the base of the back

King Parakramabahu Council Chamber

We then walked inside and arrived at the King Parakramabahu Audience Hall. This really is an impeccably created structure now restored by the archeology department. The steps up to the hall are supported by the typical Korawakkgala with a beautiful Moonstone at the base. Remaining pillars boast the carvings of the ancient artists with beautiful stone carvings such as Lotus and many others. There is a square-shaped pit in front of the chamber which is where the prisoners were kept until they were called in.

Contents:

An inscription found on stone slab at the upper level of the flight of steps of the building identifies the building as Raja Vaishyabhujanga Mandapa, the council chamber of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.). It has three consecutive tiers faced with decorated stone slabs. The roof supported on stone pillars of the upper most tier probably had wooden members and covered with clay tiles. The investigations have revealed that the present form of the building may have been a result of a renovation, probably during the Dambadeniya Period (13th century A.D.).”

The prison pit

The prison pit

Pretty deep

Pretty deep

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Had to wait more than half hour to get this

Had to wait more than half hour to get this

Thanks to the Archeology Dept, it's now restored

Thanks to the Archeology Dept, it’s now restored

One of the many moonstones

One of the many moonstones

Guard stones

Guard stones

Closer look at the mythical creature

Closer look at the mythical creature

Resemblance to Yapahuwa

Resemblance to Yapahuwa

Up among the pillars

Up among the pillars

Artwork on the pillars

Artwork on the pillars

After 900 years they are still looking amazing

After 900 years they are still looking amazing

Some more

Some more

Clever bit of restoration

Clever bit of restoration

From the side

From the side

Elephant carvings

Elephant carvings

Let's go see the Kumara Pokuna

Let’s go see the Kumara Pokuna

One of the many wells

One of the many wells

Kumara Pokuna

We then walked on towards the Kumara Pokuna (Prince’s Pond). It was so difficult to take a clear picture of anything as the sea of people kept swaying from one end to the other. I had to stand in the hot sun for ages until they clear for a fraction of a second to take a single picture. By the end of the day, I’d been so sunburnt I scarcely recognized myself. Kumara Pokuna was no exception. There were many people bustling about.

However most of the people had no idea what this was (we heard many refer to this as “Kuttam Pokuna”). All they wanted to do was see whatever is there and get out of the sun and go take a dip in a channel. All we had to do was be patient and wait till they go. Most of the time there was a wave after wave of people coming making us sweat it out. Close by was a changing room and a washing place as well. The sluice gate is now almost blocked by the earth where they removed water.

Contents:

This royal bath now known as the Kumara Pokuna, must be the pond named Sila Pokkharani referred to in the Mahavamsa as built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). This area lying outside the citadel may have belonged to King Parakramabahu’s royal parked named Nandana Uyana. The pond elegantly built with a cruciformed ground plan is designed in such manner as to get water from the adjacent watercourse and is also provided with outlets to drain off the used water. The pavilion near the pond must have been served as a changing room.”

The wall around the Citadel

The wall around the Citadel

Almost gone

Almost gone

Steps going downhill to the pond

Steps going downhill to the pond

Still standing solidly

Still standing solidly

There's the magic

There’s the magic

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

From the front

From the front

Walking around

Walking around

You can't get to the steps, it's blocked thankfully

You can’t get to the steps, it’s blocked thankfully

Looks like clay tiles

Looks like clay tiles

Pitawana or sluice gates where the excess water was removed

Pitawana or sluice gates where the excess water was removed

Changing room

Changing room

Here it is

Here it is

Everything is fit for a king

Everything is fit for a king

Upper section

Upper section

Probably where they did the washing

Probably where they did the washing

Lord Gana Statue nearby

Lord Gana Statue nearby

A whole lot more to see

A whole lot more to see

King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace

We were already sweating like pigs but there was so much more to see. Climbing back up to the main complex we walked towards the Royal Palace of Parakramabahu the Great. This is believed to have built into 7 stories but today we can only see up to the 3rd story. There are huge square-shaped holes in the walls to prove that there were wooden beams supporting the floors.

In one of the groups, one grandmother said to her grandson when he was walking past towards the foundations of the buildings that there was nothing to see. “Ohe mukuth balanna ne”. My dear grandma, what would you have expected to see? King Parakramabahu galloping away on his royal horse? What you could have instead said was “Balanna issara rajawaru karala thiyena dewal”. See what our ancient kings have done and built. I guess it was the same with many parents and adults. They have very little interest in the archeological remains so invariably the kids will take after them.

So I’m requesting all the parents and adults those who take their kids to places like these to be more thorough. Do take a genuine interest yourself then only you can convey a positive message to your kids. Please make sure you teach them the correct thing. Read the sign postings placed next to each and every place. There were many people coming and asking me what that particular place was when the description is clearly given next to the site.

So if you visit this place, do it in a fruitful manner and don’t rush through them like in a 100m-relay. Take time to appreciate our ancestors’ work, imagine yourself when those buildings were occupied and along those paths, horses galloped making that signature tuck-tuck noise. Flame lit pathways with watchers walking along the city wall. Go back to those times and enjoy it. Live it in your thoughts and make them into words, tell your children how glamorous their lives must have been. Then only our future generations will understand the real value of these things and protect them with their lives.

This palace apparently was seven storied (must’ve been the tallest building in the whole world by then) with thousand rooms. Would you believe that now? One thousand rooms? Just imagine the sheer size of the whole building. Oh my goodness, I simply can’t imagine how glamorous this must’ve been in the past. Simply unbelievable but knowing King Parakramabahu, anything was possible at the time. Shouldn’t this be named as one of the wonders of the world? I certainly think so but a pity there’s so little remains at the present.

Contents:

This edifice is said to be the palace of King Parakramabahu the Great and called as Vijayantha Prasada” of Sathbumupaya. This elaborated and decorated palace was a seven storied building with thousand rooms.”

Contents:

This is the seven storied palace named Vaijayanthi or Vijayanthi Prasada built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) in Polonnaruwa. The name is that of the Palace of God Sakra and its adoption here indicates that there may have been a need at the time to secure the concept that the King and the God were equal. The basic ground plan of the palace is similar to the 12th century Vijayabahu Palce at Anuradhapura and the palaces at Panduwasnuwara and Yapahuwa. Remains of the three stories of the supposed seven stories can still be identified. Crevices and the sockets on the thick brick walls were to take in large wooden beams. There is evidence that this palace may have been destroyed by fire. Mahavamsa mentions that this had thousand chambers. Around the palace, ruins of many buildings are seen which may have been used as places for rituals and entertainment, and as rooms for palace aides and storage.”

In brief

In brief

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Distant view

Distant view

Walking closer

Walking closer

See the holes where the timber beams must've been

See the holes where the timber beams must’ve been

Interior

Interior

See the garnished walls

See the garnished walls

A shrine?

A shrine?

From the other side

From the other side

Walking away from it

Walking away from it

Surrounding buildings

Surrounding buildings

It must've had so many wings

It must’ve had so many wings

Further back

Further back

Those paths are lined with bricks

Those paths are lined with bricks

Solidly built

Solidly built

Some more

Some more

Short walls remaining

Short walls remaining

That plaster is more than an inch thick

That plaster is more than an inch thick

A well

A well

Flock of  birds gave us a welcome

Flock of birds gave us a welcome

King Vijayabahu Palace & Surrounding Buildings

Our next stop was the King Vijayabahu’s Palace located sandwiched between King Parakramabahu’s Council Chamber and the Palace. There was only the foundation was visible with surrounding remains of other buildings. Unfortunately, there was no signage giving details like others Here enjoy them too.

What little remains of King Vijayabahu Palace

What little remains of King Vijayabahu Palace

Remains further beyond

Remains further beyond

Kumara pond is behind me

Kumara pond is behind me

One of the many huge trees

One of the many huge trees

Ok, our journey inside the Citadel is over now to Pothgul Vihara

Ok, our journey inside the Citadel is over now to Pothgul Vihara

Gosh, I have a thirst that would slay a camel. Already one 1.5 liter water bottle is gone and we had one more in the car being boiled in the heat. It’s gone past 12 noon. Our cameras were flashing warning signals of draining battery. We’ve been on the trot for nearly 2 hours but far from covering even a quarter. We decided to go see the Pothgul Viharaya and the majestic statue near the Parakrama Samudra, one of the most controversial statues in Sri Lanka.

We realized we hadn’t had anything after breakfast but I had fortunately bought two packets of biscuits. We simply couldn’t waste any time going and having lunch at a hotel. There was yet so much more to see so decided to skip lunch and head straight to Pothgul Viharaya. There are three more items in my list there. This is also one of the few things which are located out of the main complex. It’s about 6km from the archeology site and the last 2km along the Parakrama Samudraya’s dam giving us a sensational view of it.

We decided to do just that and see what the afternoon and evening bring. There was a hint of rain in the afternoon and we got to know it’d been raining steadily in the evenings. Without wasting any more time, folks, why don’t you too hop in and let’s go rock-n-roll rather get roasted in the sun.

Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila

We arrived at the Pothgul Vihara Complex. Ice Cream vendors were selling their products without stopping to take a breath due to the heat. The demand was so great that they simply kept on selling one after the other. Our first attraction was the Pothgul Vihara Statue which is believed to be of King Parakramabahu but many archeological scholars believe this to be one of the sages in the past, Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. Well, nothing is confirmed as yet so your guess is as good as mine. There’s also a mound of earth which is believed to have been a Stupa closer to the statue.

Let’s go see what makes this a grandeur creation. Fortunately, now the statue has got a roof sheltering it from the sun and rain. I saw they’re in the process of doing the same at Aukana. However, little did I know whether if it’s a good thing coz if a shelter was required, I’m sure those who built it must have thought it over and added at the same time. Who knows if these statues really need the sun and the rain? Well, I’m no expert in this field but this is just a passing thought that occurred to my wandering mind. I hope the archeology department has taken them as well into their consideration.

Contents:

This statue at Pothgul Vihara is regarded as a superb example of Asian Art. Traditionally, it is believed to be that of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But some scholars believe that it represents a sage and that it could be Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. A special feature is the object in the hands of the statue, which many believed to be a palm leaf manuscript and that represents the erudition of the holder. Another view has also been expressed that it is a yoke representing sovereignty.”

Many of these are on sale all around... They're built using machines

Many of these are on sale all around… They’re built using machines

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here we are

Here we are

Despite some peeling away, it looks very impressive

Despite some peeling away, it looks very impressive

Front view

Front view

Upper body up close

Upper body up close

A bit closer

A bit closer

The feet

The feet

Nearby Pagoda remains

Nearby Pagoda remains

Pothgul Vihara Complex

We then went towards the Pothgul Vihara Complex which is believed to be the oldest library in Sri Lanka. Of course, I saw remains of a library in Ritigala too and it could be the oldest but I guess it is just a guess that must be why this Pothugul Vihara, as the name suggests, could be the oldest. There were many people walking around but not many seemed to go towards the complex itself. They were quite content to come see the statue and then go off. This suited us really well as it gave an easy photo taking opportunity.

Let’s go folks coz I feel my blood is being boiled inside and I might at any time faint. We’ve finished both our 1.5-litre water bottles and now must go get a 5-litre can to pass the rest of the journey. My skin has turned into leather after hours of being burnt with no sun cream. So be prepared if you come my friends.

Contents:

Among the ruins of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Pothgul Vihara Monastic Complex is furthest to the south. Although it is popularly known as Pothgul Vihara, whether it is the ancient name of the complex is doubted. Some scholars believe this could be either Kapila Vihara or Mandala Mandira built by the King Parakrambahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). As its name suggests, this could be the oldest library complex ever found in the island. The peculiar feature of this site is the circular brick building located in the square central terrace. Evidence suggests that the roof itself had been made of bricks and the inner walls contained paintings. On the four sides of this building, four circular mounds are seen which may be the associate stupas, and on the lower terrace are seen square or rectangular residential cells. Shrines of similar designs are seen in South East Asian countries and this particular site seems very much closer to the Minbien Shrine of Cambodia.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Structures around the main complex

Structures around the main complex

Most of the signs are almost gone. You can help bring them back if possible

Most of the signs are almost gone. You can help bring them back if possible

The remains of a chamber in front

The remains of a chamber in front

Camouflage

Camouflage

The boundary walls

The boundary walls

Here's the view

Here’s the view

As we were going up

As we were going up

Most of it gone

Most of it gone

Entering the main chamber

Entering the main chamber

Circular walls

Circular walls

From inside, that doorframe is solidly built with granite

From inside, that doorframe is solidly built with granite

Surrounding pagodas

Surrounding pagodas

Walking towards the back

Walking towards the back

Many chambers like this all around, probably monks' living places

Many chambers like this all around, probably monks’ living places

From behind

From behind

The statue from the distance through trees

The statue from the distance through trees

Parakrama Samudraya

Our car was like an oven. Heat was such had we left some row flow mixed with yeast and water, it’d’ve been turned into crispy bread within minutes. Most of the travelers were resting under the shades of the trees sucking and licking ice cream. We made a decision not to pursue any more for the time being. Instead, go to the hotel, have a wash and chill out in the AC for a while and then go back to the outer Citadel in the late afternoon.

It appealed to both of us and there was no one else to argue the point, even the car felt happy about it so we drove on along the Parakrama Samudraya Bund. This is another of our attractions so we had to stop to take the pictures of the beauty.

On a different note, there has been some big controversy over a luxury hotel in the area not allowing the full capacity to be filled as it floods their hotel. Whether it is true or not is still not known for certain. Newspapers and media have been having a field day over this. I guess it’s the duty of the responsible people to look into this manner and reveal the truth.

Contents:

Parakrama Samudra or Sea of Parakram is a combination of three main separate reservoirs or tanks connected with channels. They are Topa, Eramudu and Dumbutulu Tanks which have been linked to create this massive body of water making the lifeline of people in Polonnaruwa. In addition to them, Kalahagala and Bhu Tanks are also a part of the main reservoir. There are separate dams built for those reservoirs as well in order to reduce the pressure on the main dam. All around the reservoir, there are many other small tanks serving two main purposes. Taking the excess water and topping up the primary tanks.

During reconstruction of the Parakrama Samudraya, the water which was supposed to come to the Thopa Wewa has started flowing to the Bhu Wewa. Then the engineers constructed a temporary dam to block the water flowing to the Bhu Wewa. This temporary dam then became a permanent road and resulted in isolating Kalahagala Wewa and Bhu Wewa from Parakrama Samudraya. This new reconstruction has apparently ignored most of the ancient technology thus reduced the capacity of the main reservoir.

The dam of Parakrama Samudray is 12.38km in length and 9.45m in height. The capacity is 134.07 M.C.M and the area at F.S.L is 2539.50 hectares. At the end of the dam and further along the canal which feeds the Parakrama Samudraya is “Angammedilla”. This is where the Amban Ganga is diverted towards the reservoir. Towards the evening, this is a popular roaming ground for the jumbos.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Along the bund

Along the bund

Rest House is that way

Rest House is that way

Sluice gates to the channel

Sluice gates to the channel

Closer to the Pothgul Vihara

Closer to the Pothgul Vihara

Making a living

Making a living

Look at those clump of clouds

Look at those clump of clouds

Water gushing out of the reservoir

Water gushing out of the reservoir

Ok, now for the afternoon siesta

Ok, now for the afternoon siesta

We arrived at the hotel around 1.45pm and had a long wash before turning the AC full on. It had to do over time to cool the room to a reasonable temperature. Surprisingly despite not having anything since breakfast, we didn’t feel hungry. The bed was nice and comfortable with a soft enough pillow. I set the alarm to 3pm coz I knew we were not gonna get up once comfortably in bed. I guess you too must be tired and feeling the heat. Take a break and have a cup of coffee before coming to the evening fiesta. Remember, we’ve seen only a fraction of the things in the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Evening Fiesta

The alarm woke me with a start and I had no clue as to where we were. The memories came flooding and I jumped out of the bed and waking Atha, got dressed. The clouds had gathered while we were snoring and now looked ready to come down at any second. Gosh, we had no umbrella. Nevertheless we drove on and found we were hungry. Thankfully small packet of Lemon Puff came to the rescue which we bit into during the drive.

Once again we were back at the entrance to the archaeological site and bought the customary Rs. 50/- ticket. This time we turned to the left and drove on for about 100m before coming to the car park right in front of the Dalada Maluwa which houses many wonderful creations. It was just a matter of time for the rain so we hurriedly walked towards the Shiva Kovil No. 1 just outside the Dalada Maluwa.

Near the car park in front of Dalada Maluwa

Near the car park in front of Dalada Maluwa

Shiva Kovil No. 1

Located just as you turn to the left when you visit the outer citadel, this creates a big impression on the viewer. Built solidly with stone but looks like molded ore, you simply can’t believe how precisely they had cut those stones and made all those arts along the walls.  Let’s see what it says about this wonderful creation.

Contents:

The ancient name and the builder of this Hindu shrine are not known. But according to the style of architecture, this may have been built somewhere in the 13th century A.D. As it is located between the Citadel and the Sacred Quadrangle it may have been regarded as an important shrine at the time. The main object of worship is the Stone Lingam in the inner sanctum.”

The Shiva Kovil is to the left

The Shiva Kovil is to the left

Covered by grass

Covered by grass

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

See how nicely they've been put together

See how nicely they’ve been put together

Entering, remove the shoes and caps

Entering, remove the shoes and caps

Outer courtyard

Outer courtyard

Over the wall

Over the wall

Inner chamber where Siva Lingam is

Inner chamber where Siva Lingam is

Just before the interior

Just before the interior

Here we are, those square-shaped holes probably were used for the upper roof

Here we are, those square-shaped holes probably were used for the upper roof

Still in use

Still in use

Looking outwards

Looking outwards

Monuments

Monuments

From the side

From the side

Beautifully made

Beautifully made

Lion pictures

Lion pictures

Must've housed a statue

Must’ve housed a statue

Only half of it is remaining

Only half of it is remaining

Pillars

Pillars

Probably used as a drain

Probably used as a drain

Now to the big dream

Now to the big dream

Sacred Quadrangle aka Dalada Maluwa

I’m sure you must’ve been impressed by the stone architecture at the Shiva Kovil. Now is the big thing for the day. There are dozen or so unbelievably impeccable marvels within this Sacred Quadrangle which will blow you away. But before you enter the premises, let’s have a look at one of the wells located nearby. There are a number of them scattered around but our idiotic travelers, locals no doubt, have used them us dumping grounds. We saw a lot of garbage, empty plastic bottles and polythene wrappers in them.

The steps taken by the Horton Plains officials should be used at other places too in order to make sure the careless dumping of polythene and plastic is minimized.

Another well just outside the Dalada Maluwa

Another well just outside the Dalada Maluwa

Bit of water remaining but there was a lot of garbage

Bit of water remaining but there was a lot of garbage

Ok guys, now you’ve taken a look, shall we move on coz greater things await our arrival so we shouldn’t keep our ancestors’ spirits waiting?

Caution: Just remember, you have to remove your shoes and caps before entering all the sites inside the Dalada Maluwa. There are signs pasted all over. It’s not just the Dalada Maluwa but many other places too. Always, keep an eye out for these warnings and please adhere to them by all means.

Ok, are you ready to take your shoes and caps off? So let’s go…

Map of Dalada Maluwa (Source: Amazing Lanka)

Map of Dalada Maluwa (Source: Amazing Lanka)

Thuparama

Our first attraction inside the Dalada Maluwa was Thuparama. Now don’t get confused with the Thuparama Stupa at Anuradhapura. That is a Stupa whereas what we have in Polonnaruwa Sacred Quadrangle is a kind of an image house. This is very much similar to the other grandeur creations like Thivanka Image House and Lankathilaka Image House. Let’s see what it says about this first and then go onto the pictures. Gosh, it’s started raining all of a sudden and I’m grateful for the shelter inside the Thuparama. I can see many people running towards us searching for shelter and it’s gonna be a helluva job taking pictures. To make matters worse, the light has faded a lot and the dim yellowish light inside is not much of a help.

Contents:

Although traditionally known as Thuparama, its ancient name or builder is not known. This is the only monument among those in Polonnaruwa where the roof is well preserved. Structures of this type where the side walls and the roof are made of bricks without using wood are known as Gedige. The ornamentation of the exterior walls shows the influence of South Indian architecture, Vimana-Panjara-Kudu design. There are indications that there had been a giant Buddha image inside but only the large seat now remains.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Under renovation

Under renovation

The building is largely intact comparatively

The building is largely intact comparatively

Guard Stones

Guard Stones

Signs of the brick roof now covered with tin sheets

Signs of the brick roof now covered with tin sheets

High walls

High walls

That entrance is where monks entered and did walking-meditation around the image house but inside

That entrance is where monks entered and did walking-meditation around the image house but inside

Towards Nissanka Latha Mandapa

Towards Nissanka Latha Mandapa

to the right of the image house

to the right of the image house

The left side

The left side

Also on the left side

Also on the left side

This is the seat of the main statue

This is the seat of the main statue

You can see the intact roof built of bricks

You can see the intact roof built of bricks

Around

Around

Will be a sight after renovation

Will be a sight after renovation

The residents

The residents

Frightened

Frightened

Let's go on

Let’s go on

Nissanka Latha Mandapaya

I had a helluva time taking pictures of Thuparama amid the sea of people but I managed to do it somehow. The time is flying but now the rains have stopped and sun is shining once again; let’s go see what else is there. How many of you remember the beautifully carved stone pillars in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud? Well that’s why the Nissanka Latha Mandapay is so special and rated as one of the best creation by our ancestors. It is located near the Western Entrance of the Dalada Maluwa, the area that contains the oldest and most sacred monuments in the city. A nearby stone inscription identifies this as the building used by King Nissanka Malla to listen to Pirith (chanting of Buddhist scriptures).

The structure is an elevated stone platform with a number of stone columns and surrounded by a low stone wall. These stone columns are the unique feature about the Nissanka Latha Manadapaya, since they are carved in a manner that is found nowhere else in the country. The eight granite columns are arranged in two rows, with four in each row. Presumably used to support a roof, each of them is approximately 8 feet 4 inches (2.54 m) in height. In each of these columns, the crown is carved in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud. The rest of the column is elaborately carved to resemble the stem of the flower. Unlike stone columns commonly seen in the architecture of this period, these are not straight, but are curved in three places. According to archaeologist Senarath Paranavithana, the stone columns at the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya are the best examples of this feature of ancient Sri Lankan architecture.

Thankfully it’s now fully covered and you can’t walk inside. It’ll help protect this uniquely shaped structure for many years to come. Well, let’s see what it says on the signage:

Contents:

According to an inscription in situ, this pillared structure could be identified as the Nissankalatha Mandapa. The unusual pillar type stimulates a lotus stalk with flower as the capital. Another inscription confirms that it is here that King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) listened to Pirith, recital of Buddhist scriptures. In the center is a small stone cut stupa, having truncated top perhaps to receive the relic casket during Pirith chanting. This was probably covered with a roof. Pillars of similar design are also found in a building near Sathmahal Prasada.”

Well preserved

Well preserved

Another stone scripture

Another stone scripture

Here it is

Here it is

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

One of my dreams came true at the sight of them

One of my dreams came true at the sight of them

Look at the unique shape

Look at the unique shape

The pillars and the stupa at the center

The pillars and the stupa at the center

There's a square shaped casket on the top where the relics were kept when he was listening to Pirith

There’s a square shaped casket on the top where the relics were kept when he was listening to Pirith

Closer look at the pillar

Closer look at the pillar

Base, slightly damaged

Base, slightly damaged

Main door

Main door

Bodhisattva Statue

Our next attraction was the Bodhisattva Statue placed right in front of the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya between Atadage and Watadage. There was no signage with details but the statue looks very much similar to the Dambegoda Statue. Here are some pictures for you to see. However, there’s also a belief that this could be a statue of King Nissanka Malla.

There it is

There it is

Not clear whether this is King Nissanka Malla or a Bodhisattva Statue

Not clear whether this is King Nissanka Malla or a Bodhisattva Statue

The steps leading to it

The steps leading to it

Reminds me of Dambegoda Statue

Reminds me of Dambegoda Statue

Closer look

Closer look

Western Gate House of the Dalada Maluwa

There are two key gate houses at Dalada Maluwa. One is at the western end behind Nissanka Latha Mandapa and the other is directly opposite (well you don’t have to be a genius to figure that out, do you?) through Atadage, Hatadage and Watadage. There are ruins of buildings closer to the gate house on both ends probably guard houses or even ritual chambers.

Gate house to the West

Gate house to the West

Guard Houses either side

Guard Houses either side

Nissanka Latha Mandapa in the far

Nissanka Latha Mandapa in the far

Steps leading to the exit

Steps leading to the exit

Surrounding buildings

Surrounding buildings

An image house

An image house

Steps of it

Steps of it

Moonstones are there at the entrance of practically every building

Moonstones are there at the entrance of practically every building

Velikkara Inscription

The sandy floor was soaked in water making it tough to walk on. Taking off shoes and walking was somewhat easier. The next in line was a Tamil Inscription named Velikkara Inscription. This is a fairly big one almost 6ft in height and about 3ft in width. Let’s see what it says. I’m sure it’s gonna take a long time for me to type it here but for the sake of our future generations I’ll make that sacrifice. All the contents given on the signage I’ve put in the report coz it’d be difficult for you to read them due to the compress of the size. Here we go:

Velikkara Inscription.

Reign: After the death of Vijayabahu I

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Grantha Tamil and Sinhala

Language: Tamil mixed with Sankrit

Introduction:

The Velikkaras rebelled agains King Vijayabahu (1155-1110 AD) in his 30th year refusing to fight against the Colas and they were punished. It seems that Velikkaras provided protection to the Temple of Tooth even during the early period of Vijayabahu due to the mention of construction of some buildings by them around the Temple of Tooth. Perhaps after the rebellion they were removed being the guards of the Temple of Tooth. After the death of Vijayabahu there were several internal struggles and it is very likely that Mugalan Thera decided to engage Velikkara forces again, for the protection of the Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic of the Buddha, during that turbulent period. The purpose of this inscription is to give an assurance by the Velikkara Soldiers that they would protect the sacred relics and the properties no matter what happened.

Contents:

The Temple of Tooth Relic built by the Commander Nagaragiri Deva on the instructions of King Vijayabahu and the surrounding shrines founded by the Velaikkaras shall be protected by the Velaikkara forces unto the dissolution of the world.

Obeisance to the Buddha in the prosperous island of Lanka King Sirisangabo Vijayabahu scion of the lineage of Iksavaku of the Solar Race gaining victory over many an army entered Anuradhapura. At the request of the Buddhist monks he put on the crown in order to protect the Buddhist religion. The king invited monks from Aramana (Myanmar) and purified the three Nikayas. The king who brought Lanka under a single canopy made donations to the three Nikayas three times equivalent to his own weight (coins) reigned 55 years and lived 73 years.

The Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic which was at the Uttaramula of Abhayagiri Vihara was brought to Pulanari or Vijayarajapura and permanently kept at the Temple of Tooth Relic. The first anointment ceremony (of Vijayabahu) was held there (according to the Culavamsa in the 18th year at Polonnaruwa) which also housed the colossal Buddha Statue, in which is held annually the ceremony of unloosening of sacred eyes and applying collyrium to them.

Rajaguru Mugalan Thera of Uttaramula, who is virtuous and learned, associating himself with the dignitaries came to the spot, called us and said ‘The Tooth Relic Temple should be under your custody’.

Thereupon we convened a meeting along with our elders and named the shrine ‘The great Temple of Tooth Relic belonging to three divisions of Velaikkaras’ and decided that it will remain as our charitable institution under our own custody. For the protection of the shrine one servitor from each of the (three divisions) was appointed and one veli of land was allocated for the maintenance of each person. We shall protect the villages, the retainers and the property belonging to the shrine, as well as those who enter for refuge; even it is detrimental to us. We shall endeavor as long as our lineage exists and even if we suffer deeper than we have suffered already.

To attest this we have delivered over (to Mugalan Thera), having had it engraved on copper plate and also engraved on stone, so that it may last as long as the sun and the moon endure.

Accordingly anyone who infringes (what is stated above) or consent to infringes or tell others to infringe becomes our enemy, who has committed an offence against Matantra, committed five great sins, a great sinner who had appropriated what was offered to gods, committed an offence against the (Triple) gem, who will enter the hell.”

Oh my gosh, my fingers are dancing now having typed without stopping all that in one go. Just wait coz I’ve got to give a massage to the poor fingers before I go on.

Pooh, that was tough but I’m happy coz that lasted so long after engraving on stone and hopefully this article will last longer until the internet is there unless something like a mega tsunami or an earthquake occurs. Let’s go see the pictures.

So tall

So tall

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

More than 6ft

More than 6ft

Tamil letters

Tamil letters

The base of it

The base of it

Atadage

One of the three Dages inside the Dalada Maluwa is Atadage. In addition to this, there is Hatadage and Watadage in the close vicinity. You know my fingers hurting so let’s go straight and see what it says on the signage.

But hang on, did you ever think why this is called Atadage? I’m sure you did but might not have found a reasonable answer. Here lemme offer you with two plausible explanations.

Legend:

“Ata” in Atadage means eight. In this case this building would have been called by this name probably because of it housed eight relics including the main Tooth and Bowl Relics or because it was completed in eight days. It is possible that this was built in eight days as there are indications that this building has used parts of other buildings in Anuradhapura era. The moonstone is a good example. This has been brought from Anuradhapura to be placed here.

Well, nobody is sure as to what made it call Atadage but those two will suffice for the time being.

Contents:

This is the oldest building in the Sacred Quadrangle. This may be identified as the Temple of Tooth Relic built by King Vijayabahu the Great (1155-1110 AD). This was a two storied building and in the upper floor were deposited the Sacred Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic. The upper floor was probably made of timber and the roof had wooden beams and was covered with clay tiles. Near the building is an inscription in Tamil Grantha script which says that the protection of the Sacred Tooth Relic had been entrusted to the Velaikkara soldiers who were the king’s private guards.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Entering

Entering

See the distant statue?

See the distant statue?

Typical entrance

Typical entrance

Guard stones

Guard stones

Rocky door frames

Rocky door frames

Remaining pillars

Remaining pillars

Standing Buddha

Standing Buddha

Only the feet are remaining

Only the feet are remaining

Artistic pillars

Artistic pillars

Some of the artwork up close

Some of the artwork up close

Unbelievable

Unbelievable

What about this?

What about this?

Hatadage

What do you think about the Atadage folks? Pretty impressive ain’t it? Ok, you’ve seen nothing much yet coz I’ve got plenty more to show you. Let’s move on to Hatadage now. Remember, there’s Watadage yet to come. Oh come on, wake up now coz I can see you’re beginning to fall asleep. There’s time to sleep children, now stay awake.

Let’s see how the Hatadage name came about. The theory is somewhat similar to the Atadage but with an extraordinary feat if it is true.

Legend:

The Hatadage was built by King Nissanka Malla (1187–1196), as a shrine to house the Relic of the tooth of the Buddha. Several historical sources including the Rajavaliya, Poojavaliya and the Galpotha Inscription itself mention that it was built in sixty hours. Since the Sinhalese word Hata means sixty and Dage means Relic Shrine, it is possible that the structure was named Hatadage to commemorate this feat. Another theory is that it is so named because it held sixty relics. The tooth relic was presumably kept in the upper store.

The difference is they had built it apparently not in 60 days but 60 hours. Looking at their achievements, anything was possible then. Don’t you think these are great examples to pre-made and assembled structures? Nowadays, engineering boasts about making similar buildings but we had that technology more than 900 years ago, probably more. This is why our typical villagers keep saying “Api Owa Heduwa Suddha Weddha Kale” (in English, it should say something like this “we built them when the foreigners were premature than even the indigenous ones).

Now let’s look at the sign:

Contents:

This is the Temple of the Tooth built by King Nissankamalla (1187-1196 AD). It is said that it is called Hatadage because it was built within sixty (hata) hours. It has been a two storied building and the upper floor may have contained the Tooth Relic. Among the stone slabs on the walls are three inscriptions of King Nissankamalla of which one has the words “Nissanka Hatadage”. The other inscriptions contain the king’s altruistic activities and advice given to the community of Buddhist monks. The roof may have had wooden beams and covered with clay.”

Key Things in the Hatadage

Porch

Vestibule

Staircase

Sanctum

Standing Buddha Image

Stone Paved Terrace

Parapet Wall

Let’s look at the structure of this:

The shrine is surrounded by a stone wall, 120 feet (37 m) long and 90 feet (27 m) wide. On its southern side is a doorway decorated with stone carvings, leading to a stone paved terrace. The main entrance to the shrine, which is also decorated with stone carvings and a Sandakada Pahana (Moonstone), is directly in front of it. Another smaller doorway is placed on the eastern side of the shrine.

The shrine has had a wooden superstructure with a tiled roof. However, only the walls now remain. The walls of the shrine are made of brick, and the outer walls are covered with stone plates. The main entrance leads to a small chamber, 27 feet (8.2 m) in length and 21 feet (6.4 m) in width. The base of its walls is decorated with designs of lotus flowers and lions. This chamber contains six stone columns and a staircase that had led to the upper floor. The square shaped main chamber is located to the rear of this outer chamber. Each of its sides is 35 feet (11 m) in length and contains four windows. The chamber had contained sixteen stone columns, although only three now remain. At the center of this chamber are three standing Buddha statues carved from granite. These are also partially destroyed. The statue in the middle is 9 feet (2.7 m) in height, while the other two are 7.5 feet (2.3 m) each.

Oh dear, there’s another of those long inscriptions and I’ll put it below for your reference.

Hatadage Inscriptions of Nissanakamalla.

Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

All the three inscriptions are by King Nissankamalla. Two have been found in the shrine and one in the porch.

No. 1

Contents:

The Dharma which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored in the whole world should always be preserved.

King Nissanka Malla was born in Sinhapura of Kalinga of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa. In regular order he was consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka. The King waived taxes for five years and did many meritorious acts. The king toured through the three kingdoms and promoted welfare of the state and the Sasana. Although the king proceeded to Dambadiva (India) and demanded war the Pandyans and the Colas didn’t fight but sent gold, gifts and maidens. Since there were no enemies in this world the king thought to win the enemies of the next world and did many meritorious acts. To venerate the Tooth Relic and Bowl Relic he offered his son Virabahu and his daughter Sarvanga Sundari and for the purpose of redeeming them caused to make a stupa in gold. He also built ‘Vatadageya’, ‘Nissanka Latha Pavilion’, and ‘Nissanka Tooth Relic House’ and dedicated to them many villages, lands and serfs.

May the future kings protect Dharma and secure welfare of both the worlds!

Let it be thus understood by future kings that these are the…

No. 2

Contents:

From the second year of accession King Nissanka Malla toured around Sri Lanka including places such as Samanola (Adam’s Peak). He freed the kingdom from lawlessness thoroughly; that a woman might even carry a casket filled with the nine kinds of gems and not be asked, ‘what is that?’.

After living in a palace built by another king for seven years and seven months he thought it does not fit for his (status). He erected within 45 days a palace of seven stories. He built a magnificent pavilion from which he watched elephant fights. The king built ramparts and gates, three stone pavilions and Kalinga Park.

In the three kingdoms he erected palaces at several places and built stone thrones named ‘Virasimhasana’. He suppressed various administrative injustices. In the cause of thus inspecting the three kingdoms in various ways he fixed a gavu (mileposts) calling it Nissanka-gavu (several of these have been found).

The king made annual donations (in coins) to the poor equivalent to weights of himself, Queen Subhadra, sub-queen Kalyani, sub-king (Virabahu), minister Vikramabahu, Queen Candra, and Their Highnesses Parvati and Sarvanga Sundari.

No. 3

Although the venerable ones, teachers and preceptors practice the established doctrine and discipline, the kings are responsible for the protection of the Sasana of the country for the continuation of the religion for 5000 years. Accordingly for the safety of the Sasana the king thus advises; 

  • The venerable ones who are teachers and preceptors should not, without inquiry, robe foolish, sinus false and crafty persons.
  • They should not do improper things contrary to the teachings of the Buddha.

(The inscription is damaged and the rest cannot be read.)”

Well, I’m not gonna say how hurting my fingers are coz you can guess as much. Let’s go and see the pictures folks.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Entrance, see the removed shoes

Entrance, see the removed shoes

Surrounding wall

Surrounding wall

Look at the window

Look at the window

Typical guard stones

Typical guard stones

Close up of the walls

Close up of the walls

Moonstone

Moonstone

Interior

Interior

There's the main statue

There’s the main statue

Three statues

Three statues

Restored as best as they could

Restored as best as they could

Better shape than the rest

Better shape than the rest

Atadage seen from the interior walls of Hatadage

Atadage seen from the interior walls of Hatadage

Sath Mahal Prasada is there

Sath Mahal Prasada is there

Watadage

This too is another impressive marvel and one of the best preserved thanks to the Archeological Department.

The Polonnaruwa Vatadage, which occupies most of the south western area of the Dalada Maluwa, is a prominent structure among them. It is the best preserved example of a Watadage in the country, and is somewhat similar in design to those belonging to the Anuradhapura Period, especially Thuparamaya and Lankaramaya.

The building has been built around a small stupa with a base diameter of 27 feet 8 inches (8.43 m). The Vatadage has two levels; the lower platform and the raised upper platform that contains the stupa. The upper platform is 80 feet (24 m) in diameter, and the lower one 120 feet (37 m). The lower platform is 4 feet 3 inches (1.30 m) from ground level, and the upper platform is 5 feet 3 inches (1.60 m) from the lower.

Source: Wikipedia

Source: Wikipedia

The circular lower platform is entered through a single entrance on the northern side. Four elaborately constructed doorways lead from it to the upper platform, which is surrounded by a brick wall on its edge. These entrances are oriented to the four cardinal directions. The center of this platform is occupied by the stupa, which has four Buddha statues seated around it, each facing one of the entrances. Each of these statues is 5 feet (1.5 m) high, and is seated on stone seats with a height of 2 feet 10 inches (0.86 m) each. Three concentric rows of stone columns had existed on the upper platform. Two of these rows, of which nothing remains, were within the brick wall, while the third row is just outside it. The inner row had consisted of 16 columns, the middle row of 20, and the outer row of 32. The existing stone columns of the outer ring are about 8 feet (2.4 m) in height.

As usual, I’m gonna tell you what it says on the signage. I’m grateful that there’s very little of text to be extracted. No mile long inscription here.

Contents:

This is one of the architectural marvels of Polonnaruwa. This may have been originally used as the Temple of the Tooth as there is mention of a round relic built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1187 AD). But according to the Galpota (Stone Book) Inscription, King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) has built a Watadage within the quadrangle naming it Ratnagiri Watadage which suggests that at least some renovation or reconstruction work has been done here during King Nissanka Malla’s reign. Just as other Watadages in the island, this too appears as a round building enclosing a stupa at its center. It has taken the present form probably as a result of the renovations or reconstruction works done in the region of King Nissanka Malla or during the Dambadeniya Period (13th Century AD). The roof supported on stone pillars probably had wooden members and covered with tiles. The moonstone and the two guard stones to the north and east respectively maybe cited as the best examples of their kinds in Polonnaruwa.”

Now let’s go and see the pictures of this beautiful structure. The sky had turned royal blue once again and the sun was shining in full force. We’ve couple of more to cover before we call it a day. So let’s hurry it up.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Just look at that

Just look at that

Very clear and nicely preserved moonstone

Very clear and nicely preserved moonstone

Either side of the entrance

Either side of the entrance

The other

The other

Looks bigger than others

Looks bigger than others

Look at those subtle carvings

Look at those subtle carvings

There a better view

There a better view

My favorite pic out of the lot

My favorite pic out of the lot

Must've been an amazing sight in the past

Must’ve been an amazing sight in the past

Closer view

Closer view

Other statues all around

Other statues all around

Pagoda in the center

Pagoda in the center

Walls and clear signs of thick plaster

Walls and clear signs of thick plaster

West entrances

West entrances

Carved pillar

Carved pillar

Out of the east entrance

Out of the east entrance

Getting down

Getting down

Every inch of space is an example of genius craftsmanship

Every inch of space is an example of genius craftsmanship

Ok, move on

Ok, move on

Galpotha (Stone Inscription)

That was wonderful, don’t you agree? We’ve got a couple of things more to cover before we finish exploring the Dalada Maluwa. Next in line is a long and wide stone inscription called Galpotha or Stone Book when directly translated. As usual, this too has been translated and given on the premises for the travelers’ benefits even though only a handful of them take trouble to read it.

You’re gonna have to read it before checking the pictures but of course you can skip it altogether but I wouldn’t recommend it coz it won’t be a fruitful experience should you ignore it. Ok, I’ve had a break and my fingers have had their rest. So let’s go find out what this gigantic inscription reveals. I can promise you one thing, that it’s gonna be really interesting and King Nissanka Malla’s name should be there.

Galpota Slab Inscrtiption.

Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala mixed with Sanskrit

Introduction:

The postscript of the inscription states that the granite block in which it is inscribed was brought from Sagiria (Mihintale) which is about 100km away. The weight of the rock is approximately 15 tons and the dimenstions are 26ft 8in X 4ft 7in X 1ft 9in (av.). This is the longest inscription of King Nissanka Malla. The king has outlined some of his policies and the duties and responsibilities of the subjects in this inscription.

Contents:

Hail! This Dharma, which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored by the whole world, should always be preserved.

Vijaya, the first king of Sri Lanka had come from Kalinga and King Nissanka Malla was also born in Sinhapura of Kalinga, of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa belongs to Okkaka Dynasty and arrived in Sri Lanka 1700 years after Vijaya came to Sri Lanka, on the invitation of the king (Parakramabahu I). (He) then became proficient in Buddhism and in the science of arms and held the positions of regional king and viceroy, before being consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka named Sirisangabo Kalinga Parakramabahu Viraraja Nissankamalla.

After he became king he revoked cetain enactments by previous kings which were unfavourable to the people. The King waived taxes for five years and later imposed reduced taxes than previously, as follows;

Closer section of the paddy fields to the tank – 1 amuna and 3 pala and 6 madaran

Middle section of the fields from the tank – 1 amuna and 1 pala and 3 madaran

Chena cultivation tax and tax on re-cultivating of abandon paddy lands had been discontinued.

The king gave money and wealth to the poor and alleviated poverty. Abandoned reservoirs and channels in the three kingdoms were repaired and thus brought prosperity and security to inhabitants. He established courts of justice and gave wealth to thieves to stop them from thieving. The king got rid of the thorns of the Sasana, held annual ordination, ceremonies and the virtuous monks were given requisites.

The king brought many princesses of Solar and Lunar dynasties from Kalinga for his son, the Viceroy Virabahu for the continuation of the dynasty. He donated annually wealth equivalent to the weights of himself, the Chief Queen Kalinga Subadra, the second Queen Kalyana of Gangavamsa and his son [Virabahu], his daughter Sarvanga Sundari. The people were in readiness to give their lives for the king as proof of their love and loyalty. Performing day after day the ten meritorious acts, he took his residence in the Kalinga city of Polonnaruwa.

Thinking of the injustices done to Sri Lankans in the past he declared war against Colas and Pandyans. When the Pandyans came to know that Commander Lag Vijayasingu Tavuruna himself would command, the Pandyan king and his mother pleaded only some land for their maintenance and sent gifts and royal maidens. Similarly Colas also sent gifts which quenched the flame of his anger. He formed friendly alliances with Karnataka, Nellur, Gauda, Kalinga, Tilinga and Gujarata. From those who did not wish such friendship he struck terror and extracted maidens and tributes from such kingdoms. In Ramesvaram, at a ceremony he bestowed boundless wealth on inhabitants and built a Devala (An inscription of the king has been found in Ramesvaram).

Then reflecting that he had no enemies in this world, he would conquer the enemies of the next world, built many alms-houses and did many meritorious acts. To the Tooth and the Bowl relics he offered his son and daughter and redeemed them by offering a [model of a] dagaba in solid gold together with other valuables. The king had built Temple of Tooth, Watadaga Geya, Nissanka Latha Pavillion, Ruwanweli Stupa (Rankoth Vihara) and four subsidiary stupas at the Maha Vihara [Dimbulagala].

  • The kings are human divinities and must therefore be regarded as gods.
  • King inflicts punishment [to offenders] commensurate with the offence just like a physician applies remedy for a bodily ailment.
  • They restrain [their subjects] from evil and thus save them from falling into hell.
  • For those who do not observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like hell.
  • For those who observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like heaven.
  • The trouble which one undergoes on behalf of kings is like sowing of see of happiness.
  • The people should keep off from all evils.
  • One who protects his wealth should not neglect his family.
  • Though one has fallen from office, one should be loyal to the king like a fruit fallen from the stalk.
  • Talking about the secrets of the kings is like invoking the death by the repetition of charms.
  • He who gives his life for the king will live long in the fram of glory.
  • Real feeling is the feeling of gratefulness.
  • The best occupation is cultivation of land.
  • The highest treasure is the Dharma.
  • Since all these are received through the kings they should be cherished.
  • Kings do not like those who are puffed up with pride.
  • When one has received titles, offices and wealth from the king he should not become proud.
  • According to tradition only the sons of the kings should be elected as kings.
  • If there are no princes to maintain the kingdom the queens should be elected and in the absence of them as well, the people should place a slipper worn by a great king and protect the kingdom.

The Kalingas are the rightful heirs to the throne of Sri Lanka and therefore non-Buddhist kings such as Colas and Pandyans shall not be consecrated as kings of Sri Lanka. If there are any of them [Kalingas] to be found, is the duty of the people to place them in the position of supremacy to protect the Sasana.

It is indeed the Dharma that protects this whole world. So reflecting, cherish love for the acquisition of happiness in both the worlds. Thus are future kings requested by King Kalinga Nissanka Malla who loves virtue.”

Pretty impressive, isn’t it? I felt so proud of our ancestors at the way they governed this country. That is something unfortunately, our present leaders haven’t learned. All the MPs and the rest of the government officials and politicians should be thought and given a code of conduct based on these. But again, it’ll have to be implemented by the politicians themselves. So it won’t become realistic.

You know that there’s another short description given at the sight, don’t you? Let’s take a look at that as well.

Contents:

This giant inscription which assumes the shape of a palm-leaf manuscript in stone has been a work of King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) and it is the largest stone inscription so far discovered. The inscription itself says that this large stone block was transported from Mihintale, some hundred kilometers away from Polonnaruwa. It describes the genealogy, heroic and altruistic deeds of King Nissanka Malla. The letters of the inscription were gilded with molten iron. There may have been a roof over the inscription for its protection. The figure of the woman on the side face of the stone on whom two elephants are sprinkling water has been identified as Goddess Gajalakshmi (Goddess of Prosperity).”

See, there’s no point going and seeing these things if you haven’t a clue as to what they are, who’s built them, what was the purpose for it, how old they are, etc. Now is the time for long awaited pictures.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

In brief

In brief

Look at the size

Look at the size

Look at the Gajalakshmi between the Elephants

Look at the Gajalakshmi between the Elephants

Thickness

Thickness

Writing is super clear even after all the years

Writing is super clear even after all the years

Sathmahal Prasada

Now, we’re gonna see another tall building built during the Polonnaruwa era. Unlike the 7-story building of King Parakramabahu Palace, this is so much smaller and has a pyramidal shape as it narrows down going up. Let’s see what the archeology department has to say about it.

Contents:

Although known as Satmahal Prasada, its ancient name or other facts of this edifice are not known. Despite the fact that there’s reference in the Mahavamsa that King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) built a Satmahal Prasada in Polonnaruwa there’s no positive evidence that it is the building. Built in the stepped pyramidal form this seven-storied structure may be a stupa of a rare kind. It bears a close similarity to the stupa at Wat Kukut in Lamphun, Thailand. The architectural features common in South-East Asian countries are also visible in this building.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

There it is

There it is

Statues in the center all the way up

Statues in the center all the way up

This is towards the bottom

This is towards the bottom

There's an entrance too

There’s an entrance too

This must've been the way they went upstairs coz it's too small to make it inside

This must’ve been the way they went upstairs coz it’s too small to make it inside

Pohoya Geya (Chapter House)

Our next attraction was the Chapter House located between Galpotha and Sathmahal Prasada. In Sinhala, it’s the Pohoya Geya but there was no further information displayed on site. Let’s see the pictures in action. One special feature is a stone pillar at the center very much similar to the curved lotus stalk of Nissanka Latha Mandapa. Apart from that, there are a handful of pillars along the border of the structure. At the entrance, a prominent moonstone is present.

See anything unusual?

See anything unusual?

This is very common you know

This is very common you know

Closer look and wet after the rains

Closer look and wet after the rains

I was referring to this, not as glamorous as Nissanka Latha MAndapa but similar all the same

I was referring to this, not as glamorous as Nissanka Latha MAndapa but similar all the same

Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa

Well, it’s time to leave the Dalada Maluwa but not before examining the East Entrance. This is in a better shaped compared to the West Entrance and is right in front of the car park I told you earlier. Without much more ha ho, let’s see the pictures.

Out we go

Out we go

Surrounding buildings

Surrounding buildings

Some more

Some more

Bottom of the steps

Bottom of the steps

Could've been another inscription and see the below carvings

Could’ve been another inscription and see the below carvings

You saw just this

You saw just this

Ok, that’s about the Dalada Maluwa where most of the Sacred Shrines are located. If you think, we’ve done for the day, you’re badly mistaken. Stay with us for a bit longer folks, coz I’ve got three other things that would interest you.

Shiva Devalaya No. 2

We drove on towards the South Entrance to the outer Citadel. You would have to go through it to see the majestic Gal Viharaya and many more prominent shrines and relics. Just before the Southern Entrance, there’s a right turn that will take you to Shiva Devalaya No. 2. We took that and it’s a drive about 400m. Pabalu Vehera is a located somewhere in the middle to the right but we drove straight to the Shiva Devalaya hoping to cover Pabalu Vehera on the way back. So let’s see what it says about the Shiva Devalaya No. 2. Remember we visited the No. 1 just before Dalada Maluwa. Should you like to refresh your memory, just scroll up.

Contents:

This is the oldest Hindu shrine in Polonnaruwa. Known as Shiva Devala No. 2, it had been built by King Rajaraja I (985-1014 AD). According to Tamil inscription found in situ this has been dedicated to the consort of the above king, Vanavanmadevi. In the center of the shrine is the stone-cut Sivalinga as the principal object of worship. Many images of Hindu gods were discovered from this site. The Namdi figure, the vehicle of God Siva is presently located in front of the shrine. Hindu religious activities continue here even at the present time.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here we are and look at this, 100% granite

Here we are and look at this, 100% granite

The vehicle of God Siva

The vehicle of God Siva

Pretty much similar to Kovil No. 1

Pretty much similar to Kovil No. 1

Here's the entrance but can't go in as it's functioning to-date. The Pooja is conducted every Tue and Fri

Here’s the entrance but can’t go in as it’s functioning to-date. The Pooja is conducted every Tue and Fri

See the closed door?

See the closed door?

Another of Nandhi

Another of Nandhi

Time to go

Time to go

Unnamed Ruins

The Eastern Entrance to the outer Citadel lies a little away from the Shiva Kovil No. 2 but we didn’t attempt to go see it as the time was going really fast and already the dusk was falling. We wanted to see Pabalu Vehera before the darkness completely enveloped us. It didn’t look like many have ventured into see the Entrance so it’ll have to wait till another time. However, on our way back to the Pabalu Vehera, we noticed a ladder going up towards a tree with a hut on the top of it. I was very interested in that so we stopped to look around.

Beyond the tree there was a path that led to a hut about 50m away. Naturally, I wanted to investigate and walked towards it. There was nobody in sight so looking closer this was a place under excavation by the archeology department. It was in the middle of being unearthed and hopefully there’ll be something new added to the already overflowing collection. By the way, that hut could be used to stay at night or to keep watch as jumbos might be roaming around. Just imagine how many more sites are there buried under the earth waiting to be excavated. That’s why we have to keep funding the Archeology Department all the time coz they’re digging for our heritage. Here are some pictures.

If they find something new, well you’ve seen the first hand before anyone else. So keep smiling…

Here's the tree house

Here’s the tree house

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Being dug out

Being dug out

Looks like a big complex

Looks like a big complex

Heads of the pillars

Heads of the pillars

Maybe this will be unveiled in the near future

Maybe this will be unveiled in the near future

Pabalu Vehera

The next thing, the last in our list, was Pabalu Vehera. A beautiful name for a Dagaba and we were highly excited. So we drove on and found to our greatest relief that nobody in sight. It was the same at Shiva Kovil No. 2 but after we arrived, there were two other vehicles. Apparently these shrines are not visited by many and often enough. Having tried to avoid people throughout the day, this was a godsend opportunity to take in the evening surrounding with this imposing Pagoda.

This is what I really love about archeology. You can go back in time visualizing what it was like then when you’re alone in a site like this. Most of the day, we were deprived of that opportunity but here was our perfect opportunity.

Dear me, maybe I spoke out of hand or too soon. Here comes a vehicle and I can see a couple of bicycles too coming this way, probably foreigners. Well, let’s go see this beautiful structure before it’s too late and the darkness envelopes us. Oh, we gotta see what the story behind it before that.

Contents:

Located to the south of the main street which provides access to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa from the eastern gate. It is popularly believed that this may be the stupa supposed to have been built by Queen Rupavati, a consort of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But there is no definitive evidence about its ancient name or the builder. The popular name Pabalu Vehera may derive from the recovery of ‘beads’ (Pabalu) in the vicinity. Around the stupa there are several image houses. A special feature of this stupa is a narrow staircase in three flights at the south providing access to top of the basal tiers.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Fading light wouldn't help

Fading light wouldn’t help

Closer, there's a Buddha Statue in the center

Closer, there’s a Buddha Statue in the center

There it is clear now

There it is clear now

Partially damaged

Partially damaged

There were signs of image houses all around this

There were signs of image houses all around this

Another statue

Another statue

Bit of clear ground

Bit of clear ground

There another

There another

This is pretty much intact

This is pretty much intact

You saw a similar one just before entering the Shiva Devalaya No. 1

You saw a similar one just before entering the Shiva Devalaya No. 1

The sun was setting behind us

The sun was setting behind us

Another image house, do you see the fallen statue?

Another image house, do you see the fallen statue?

Ok, getting dark now

Ok, getting dark now

Through the granite frames

Through the granite frames

Sky is clear but not the ground

Sky is clear but not the ground

One of many, they are staying around the Stupa in the night

One of many, they are staying around the Stupa in the night

Sunset from Parakrama Samudra

All right, we’ve covered, I’d imagine, about 30-40% of the documented shrines and relics inside the whole complex. Most likely a lot less than that percentage I just mentioned. I know you’re wondering “What? We’ve only seen that much after all that?”. I don’t blame you for thinking like that coz that’s how any ordinary person would feel. Don’t you worry coz we’re gonna see some more tomorrow, now don’t get alarmed, and it’ll be another story. Right now it’s almost dark and our camera batteries have long gone dead but Atha suggested we go see the Gal Vihara Statues in the dusk.

We kinda wanted to do a reconnaissance around the other attractions so that we could plan the following day properly. So we drove on and parked at Gal Vihara. Then took a walk with nothing but our phones. It felt so great not to have the cameras with us as we were only taking in the scenery with our eyes. It’s something we must try every now and then. We walked leisurely towards the Gal Vihara to find many people were still at the premises. Do you know the Gal Vihara used to be called as Kele Viharaya (Forest or Jungle Temple)? That’s just what we heard one guide was telling his crew. It had been nothing but thick jungle all around the complex before it was unveiled thus giving it the name. But now it’s popularly known as all over the world, Gal Viharaya.

I’m going to be naughty and not show you any pictures I took with my phone. It felt heavenly and I went back in time in my mind.

—There were flames stuck along the path to the statues. A crescent moon was high up in the sky with a million stars to keep him company. The distance sound of drums at the Dalada Maluwa was soothing to the ears. Wind blew from Parakrama Samudra bringing a cool air that covered our bodies. There was a group of monks walking in a line looking downwards in meditation. The upper bare-bodied guards with bandanas carrying swords and spears were stood at every entrance looking menacingly. Clinking and clattering of horses moving about was music to my ears. The Buddha statues looked serene in the flame light. Moonlight reflected on the granite surface falling that light on the leaves. For a moment everything came to a standstill and I felt a calmness wash over me.—

“Let’s go, it’s getting late” Atha woke me from my reverie. I dragged myself towards the car and we drove away. Passing the Parakrama Samudra where you can see it clearly from the main road I put my foot down hoping to step on the brakes but realized it was Atha who was driving. Shouting for him to pull over I unbuckled myself getting the camera out of the backseat where it was being charged. We stopped and both ran like madmen to the viewing point. What we saw is something every person’s dream but only a handful of us were lucky enough to see it.

The sun was at this last stage of setting in the distance across the Parakrama Samudraya. The water rippled in the wind and the vivid colors reflected on the surface beautifully. I was lost for a minute. There was no one else but me. Now you’re gonna see what I saw but let me warn you, the pictures are not even half as good as what I saw for real.

Now, look at this

Now, look at this

Simply breath-taking

Simply breath-taking

Burning horizon

Burning horizon

Dark clouds to the left

Dark clouds to the left

Standing all alone

Standing all alone

Beyond words

Beyond words

Ok folks, going to eat and sleep now... See you in the next one

Ok folks, going to eat and sleep now… See you in the next one

Oh dear, this has really been a marathon of archeology. We’re all but exhausted and all we need is a delicious meal and a cozy bed.

I hope you folks enjoyed it as much as I did bringing it to you. I don’t have to reiterate the fact that I went to great trouble to bring you a comprehensive narration of what we saw within 7+ hours.

Thanks for being patient and reading through. Now go imagine yourselves in the former glory of Polonnaruwa and we’re gonna get some rest.

I’ll bring you the Chapter 2 in the next report with more pictures and details. Until then, take care and keep travelling.

Sri…

Strolling through the Ancient Marvels – Pulathisipura Chapter 2…

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Year and Month 17 Apr, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Athula and Me
Accommodation New Ranketha Rest, Polonnaruwa
Transport By Car and on foot.
Activities Archaeology, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent except for a shower between 3pm and 4pm. Nevertheless it was extremely hot with temperatures as high as 39 degrees.
Route Polonnaruwa->Habarana->Dambulla->Kurunegala->Minuwangoda (No. 5 Bus Route)->Katunayake->Dematagoda (E3)->Borella->Rajagiriya->Pita Kotte.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Refer to the Previous Trip Report for more details.
  • Archeological Site opens at 7am.
  • Protect the Nature and don’t litter.
  • A detailed map of the Archaeological Site will be really useful. There are vendors who sell books which have the map in details.
  • Make sure you have plenty of memory cards and spare batteries or portable power banks so that you won’t run out of either the memory or power.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hello everyone, hope you’ve had a great time especially after the Pulathisipura Chapter 1. Tell me I managed to massage your urge to go see them as soon as possible. If you got that craving and learned something useful, then I can consider myself successful and worthy of all the troubles I took. Now, if you’ve been waiting wondering where the Chapter 2 is, here it is. I’m sure you’re excited so am I, why wait any longer let’s go rock ‘n’ roll.

I left you all with a beautiful sunset over the Parakrama Samudra. The room was comfortable and AC kept humming away as if trying to put us to sleep. We slept like logs until 5am. Getting up at that time is not appealing to many but for us, it’s something we’re now used to thanks to Ana. We got up and hurriedly got dressed coz we wanted to go to the bund of Parakram Samudra just before sun came up. We really wanted to have the reservoir to ourselves and feel the serenity and calmness in the morning.

Coming out of the hotel in a hurry, we almost bumped into the Doberman of the hotel. Thankfully Mr. Thomas warned us just in time and we escaped without a scratch. Just imagine having to come across a huge and fierce doggy in the dark. We drove fast to the bund while the early morning rays were coming out of their hide out. Having parked our car, we walked along the bund and surprisingly, there were quite a number of people out and jogging reminding us of Colombo walking paths. It was in a way a good scene as people are getting really health conscious.

Water was almost still and a slight breeze brushed our cheeks. Gulls kept hovering above the water looking for an easy prey. The road was practically isolated save for the joggers. The sun started his ascent right in front of the reservoir, I’d have loved if it came up beyond the water surface but it wasn’t to be. Dimbulagala rose high into the sky bringing back memories of us walking all around after getting lost. As usual, the sky turned into yellow, orange and crimson before the sun appeared through clouds and rose above the coconut trees. I’m sure you like to see the pics so let me pamper your minds.

Just after 5.30am

Just after 5.30am

There he comes

There he comes

Slowly

Slowly

Look at those beautiful colors

Look at those beautiful colors

Patterns

Patterns

Nearly up

Nearly up

There he is

There he is

Bright and huge

Bright and huge

Coconut leaves in the morning breeze

Coconut leaves in the morning breeze

Parakrama Samudraya

Parakrama Samudraya

Morning flying

Morning flying

Another

Another

How’s that? Sensational, don’t you agree? We decided to take it easy and drive towards the New Town just to get a feel of the city life. The town folks were still in New Year mode and most of the shops were closed. It was one helluva thing to find a place which was open where we could get some snacks for breakfast. We managed to find two different rolls. Then we drove further towards Kaduruwela keeping the railway line to our left. I just remembered in the recent floods, the whole A11 got flooded and people used the railway line which is somewhat higher than the road, to move about.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Gal Viharaya aka Rock Temple.
  2. Nearby Archaeology Remains at Gal Viharaya.
  3. Nelum Pokuna.
  4. Thivanka Image House.
  5. Demala Maha Seya.
  6. Shiva Devalaya and Other Remains.
  7. Alahana Pirivena.
  8. Kiri Vehera.
  9. Hevisi Mandapa Pavilion and Crematory Stupas
  10. Lankathilaka Image House
  11. Baddha Seema Prasadaya.
  12. Rankoth Vehera.
  13. Monastic Hospital Complex.
  14. Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter & Inscription.
  15. Menik Vehera.
  16. Shiva Devalaya.
  17. Well & Trade Stalls

Gal Viharaya

A peacock was roaming about but shied away when we tried to stop and take a picture. Around 7.00am, we decided to get back to our main purpose of the day. We arrived at the main archaeological office just after 7am and bought the usual Rs. 50/- ticket. Then ignoring everything else in the vicinity, we drove straight to the Gal Viharaya as we really wanted to have it for ourselves without people bustling around. The morning rays lightened the surrounding and we took in the scenery while driving to the destination. The car park was empty and only a small group was walking towards the site and we followed suit.

This was a sight worth seeing again and again during your lifetime. I’m not surprised people who visit Polonnaruwa primarily visiting the Gal Viharaya ignoring or not knowing other attractions. This is a magical and wonderful creation not just in Sri Lanka but in the whole world. There are three prominent Buddha Statues (Samadhi, Standing and Sleeping postures) carved out of solid granite and placed in such a way as if they’ve been done somewhere else and brought here for the display. There’s a roof covering the statues now and the golden brown sun rays illuminated the statues falling slowly on them as if not wanting to make it too obvious.

We walked along the footpath and there was the tiny lake to our left full to the brim in the recent rains. It looked nice and placid and reflections of the trees could be seen on the surface. We climbed down the steps and arrived at this magical place. The sandy floor in the site had been already swept and I felt a bit ticklish walking barefoot on it. Looking at the serene Buddha Statues is something enchanting. I felt a deep calmness washed over me making my mind and body relaxed. The few devotees chanted “Sadu, Sadu, Sadu” and my hands automatically raised in worship. I felt tears rolling down my cheeks as if all the burdens and troubles inside being filtered out of me. This was something heavenly.

The carvings were that good even the pillow of the sleeping Buddha has been designed to depict the crease when his head is on the pillow. You’d have to look a bit closer to identify this. Well, let me show you what we saw but don’t expect it to be that glamorous coz you gotta be there in person and see it with your own eyes. A famous and well-known myth about the standing statue is that it is of Ananda Thero. However this is not true as the statue is placed on a Lotus Pedestal which is only used for Buddha Statues. Thus the theory this is of Ananda Thero is contradicted and believed after all this is of Lord Buddha. Before we go, let’s see what it says on the signage.

Contents:

This was built by the King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) which was also known as Uththararamaya in the ancient time. At that time separate image houses were set up for each statue. Such statues are known as meditating statue, standing statue and sleeping statue respectively. The stone inscription including the Sanga (monks) amendments engraved by the King Great Parakramabahu is also found here.”

Just off the car park

Just off the car park

Nearby tank

Nearby tank

Good morning!

Good morning!

Towards the marvels

Towards the marvels

Beautifully maintained

Beautifully maintained

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

There it is

There it is

First one

First one

Simply amazing

Simply amazing

Either side of the statue

Either side of the statue

At the base

At the base

Side view

Side view

The center area

The center area

Carved stone pillars

Carved stone pillars

So clever and artistic

So clever and artistic

This is inside the cage

This is inside the cage

Closer look

Closer look

Other carvings

Other carvings

Here's the huge inscription

Here’s the huge inscription

Closer look

Closer look

One of the best statutes I've ever seen

One of the best statutes I’ve ever seen

Closer look

Closer look

Shadow of the roof on the top part

Shadow of the roof on the top part

Feet on the lotus stand

Feet on the lotus stand

Full picture

Full picture

Standing and sleeping

Standing and sleeping

No words to express my feelings

No words to express my feelings

Do you see the slight inwards shape of the pillow?

Do you see the slight inwards shape of the pillow?

Full length

Full length

From the other side

From the other side

Nearby Archaeological Remains

Afterwards, we roamed around the complex taking in the rest of the remains. There was a refectory (Dhana Shalawa) nearby and another unnamed structure a bit further away. There are signs of a pond closer to the temple as well. After exploring around, we decided to go explore the rest of the sites as the crowd was getting bigger every minute. We were really lucky to have had the place to ourselves without people milling around. We took a walk around the lake and saw the Kiri Vehere looking as white as freshly got milk glistening above the trees. We found a hawk nestling on a tree branch and managed to take a couple of pictures. There was another bird too we found among the leaves which looked really beautiful.

The hawk was really big and unfortunately my knowledge of birds is less than limited. Hopefully Dhana would be able to figure them out. This was one of those key moments in my photography as I hadn’t had a close encounter with a hawk before. Let’s see them before heading to our next destination.

From the path

From the path

You can read the sign

You can read the sign

Superbly maintained

Superbly maintained

No idea what this is or any signage to say what it was

No idea what this is or any signage to say what it was

Closer look

Closer look

Going towards the tank

Going towards the tank

Oh hello!

Oh hello!

Look at the reflection

Look at the reflection

Sunbathing

Sunbathing

Just look at the reflection

Just look at the reflection

Here's the real one

Here’s the real one

And the copy on the water

And the copy on the water

Lotus walk

Lotus walk

Oh ho

Oh ho

Walking around the tank

Walking around the tank

There he is

There he is

Fiery eyes

Fiery eyes

Another pic

Another pic

Ok, off to other things

Ok, off to other things

Lotus Pond

Our next destination was the Lotus pond which is about 1km away from Gal Viharaya. However we didn’t know that despite all the signage there was no mention of the distance to the particular shrines. Leaving the car at Gal Vihara car park, we decided to take a walk hoping to catch more birds on the way. We did see many but weren’t lucky enough to catch them on the camera. The road was mercifully shady as it ran through the forest patch. Morning rays filtered through the tree branches and leaves.

We met one of the archeological officers coming to work from a nearby village. He spotted a group of deer inside the jungle sunbathing but hearing our footsteps, they ran into the jungle. The walk looked endless when we saw the turn off to Demala Maha Seya but decided to see it on the way back and carried on until we arrived at the Lotus Pond. This created a big sensation because the Lotus Pond Auditorium in Colombo was designed after it otherwise only a few interested parties knew of this and how wonderful it really is.

We saw a couple of Black-Headed Orioles (Kaha Kurulla for the laymen) as we turned towards the pond. In terms of the size, if you’re expecting to see a mammoth pond, you’ll be disappointed coz we’re used to seeing these gigantic creations in Polonnaruwa. This was somewhat smaller and there was no one around making it easier for us to take pictures at will. So let’s go see how it looks. Further away from it lie remains of what they call a circular shrine as well.

Contents:

The shape of the pond, built in the form of a full blown lotus flower gives it the name, Lotus Pond. This falls within the premises of the Jethavanarama (Monastery) built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD), and according to Mahavamsa eight such ponds have been built. Ruins of several such ponds have also been discovered during explorations within the limits of this monastery.”

Three attractions on this road

Three attractions on this road

Love the bright colors

Love the bright colors

Lonely road

Lonely road

Black-headed oriole

Black-headed oriole

Cleaning session

Cleaning session

There it is

There it is

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Oh wow

Oh wow

Look at those precision carvings

Look at those precision carvings

Speechless

Speechless

All around

All around

The circular shrine between Lotus Pond and Thivanka Image House

The circular shrine between Lotus Pond and Thivanka Image House

Not much excavated

Not much excavated

Thivanka Image House

Walking further way we saw a huge building bordered with a skeleton metal work showing that it was under restoration. This was the world famous Thivanka Image House. I recalled going through many times during my school days remembering who built which. Thivanka Image House was a big sensation in our history lessons. Unfortunately, I guess the current school syllabus doesn’t have history as a primary subject as far as I know. A country without a history is like a curry without salt for me.

We’ve so much of history but very little attention is paid to that and learn from them. Once again, we had the place to ourselves because all the people were busy at Gal Viharaya and probably go away afterwards without exploring any further. This is very much similar to the Thuparama Image House at Dalada Maluwa (check my Polonnaruwa Chapter 1) and to be seen Lankathilaka Image House. The main complex has housed a huge Buddha Statue while there were other statues on either side. There was a path created through the thick walls that goes in a semi-square around the image house but inside. This was used by monks to meditate while walking along it. We were lucky to have been shown the inside of this. Of course, Thivanka Image House has the most intact walkway and we walked through the dark tunnel like confined pathway which now owned by the bats.

The archaeology officer on site was very friendly and gave us a lot of information. There were faint signs of some beautiful paintings similar to Sigiriya Frescoes. Unfortunately, most of them are now gone leaving only a very few of them. State Engineering Cooperation has undertaken the restoration work and now in progress. There were many artistic creations on the outer walls as well but taking pictures through that skeleton barrier was not easy. I will definitely go there once it’s done, hopefully within a year or so.

There are a few giant squirrels that visit the shrine and one came while we were there. The fella looked very tame but we decided to leave it be. Well, let’s go see how this looks like, shall we?

Metal covering for renovation

Metal covering for renovation

Can't get a better pic of the outside

Can’t get a better pic of the outside

All around it's covered

All around it’s covered

Guard stone

Guard stone

The other

The other

Steps

Steps

Look at that precision artwork

Look at that precision artwork

Parts of statues remain

Parts of statues remain

Interior

Interior

Can you see the giant statue inside

Can you see the giant statue inside

The roof

The roof

Paintings are fading away

Paintings are fading away

Some more

Some more

Few of the good ones

Few of the good ones

Another

Another

Must’ve looked beautiful

Must’ve looked beautiful

Some more

Some more

Endless

Endless

There you go

There you go

The last in my collection

The last in my collection

Only a partial one

Only a partial one

The lotus seat has been restored

The lotus seat has been restored

You can see the restored walls

You can see the restored walls

The roof also renovated

The roof also renovated

The low entrance to the meditating path

The low entrance to the meditating path

Inside of it, very narrow

Inside of it, very narrow

The roof

The roof

A window

A window

Back out of it, this is the steps to the second floor

Back out of it, this is the steps to the second floor

Outside

Outside

Time to go

Time to go

But not before without a chat with him

But not before without a chat with him

Demala Maha Seya

Leaving the Thivanka Image House wasn’t easy coz I simply wanted to spend more time there but we had to get back to Colombo the same day so left while a group of visitors arrived on site. Retracing our steps, we passed the Lotus Pond before entering into the path to the Demala Maha Seya. It got its name due to the way this was built. King Parakramabahu had brought many Tamil Prisoners after invading South India and had used them to build this huge Stupa giving it the name.

It’s being restored under the funds of UNICEF. They’ve allocated 10 Crore (100 million rupees) for the project. The supervisor on site, Mr. Sampath revealed that in the 80s, there had been a similar attempt to unearth the whole stupa and restore it but apparently the officials hadn’t done it the proper way. According to him, so far they’ve uncovered 1/12th of the whole stupa. I simply couldn’t believe my eyes as there was a huge area had been unearthed but it was less than 10%.

Hopefully they’ll do the finishing within my lifetime. He showed us the way to the top of the Stupa where a smaller one could be seen. From the top, we could see the tops of Rankoth Vehera, Kiri Vehera and Lankathilaka Image house above the lush greenery against a cotton wool and royal blue sky. It was as if we were in a different world. We could see the Dimbulagala in the distance with its prominent Akasa Chaithya but the glaring sun made it almost impossible to zoom in for a picture.

On our way back, the workers offered us plain tea served in coconut shell cups. This was an offer we didn’t wanna turn down as we were very thirsty having left our water bottle in the car. After bidding farewell to them, we headed back towards the Gal Vihara Car Park but not before encountering some more remains. I know you’re now itching to see the pictures but we must check what we can learn from the facts given at the plaque.

Contents:

This is called Demala Maha Seya because it was built by Tamil prisoners-of-war from King Parakramabahu’s (1153-1186 AD) South Indian campaigns. The stupa was built enveloping an existing hillock and is about 600 meters in circumference at its base. The summit of the stupa dome is levelled and contains a small stupa at the center. It is not clear whether this was left undone because of the size of the project or whether it was an attempt to build a stupa of the Kota Vehera type.”

Washed out in the rain

Washed out in the rain

Cut to explore the interior

Cut to explore the interior

At work

At work

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Where men at work

Where men at work

One end of the basement

One end of the basement

The path to go to the top

The path to go to the top

Look at the view

Look at the view

Bricks are clearly visible

Bricks are clearly visible

80-foot deep pit to inspect the interior

80-foot deep pit to inspect the interior

Can you see that?

Can you see that?

From left, Rankoth Vehera, Lankathilaka Image House and Kiri Vehera

From left, Rankoth Vehera, Lankathilaka Image House and Kiri Vehera

Rankoth Vehera

Rankoth Vehera

Kiri Vehera and Lankathilakaya

Kiri Vehera and Lankathilakaya

On the top, see how big the area is

On the top, see how big the area is

Those pits are for inspecting the core

Those pits are for inspecting the core

A ladder

A ladder

The small stupa on top

The small stupa on top

Closer

Closer

There it is

There it is

I simply love this

I simply love this

Plenty of space on top

Plenty of space on top

One of the worker's

One of the worker’s

Ok, time to go

Ok, time to go

Other Archaeological Remains including a Shiva Devalaya

We walked back towards the main road after a reviving tea offered by the workers. The sun was up and we were beginning to regret not taking the car but had no choice. All along the road we noticed a few places where there were signs of plenty of garbage left behind. Apparently these were the places where vendors would do those temporary shops when there are many tourists. Unfortunately, none, either the Urban Council or those vendors, had the sense, the courtesy or the obligation to clear the place after the shops are closed.

We arrived finally on the main road and saw another complex of archaeological remains that stretched right up to the Alahana Pirivena. This could very well have been a part of it as well but I’ll show you some pictures before going into the Alahana Pirivena main complex. See what do you think about them?

This is right before turning to the Lotus Pond, Demala Maha Seya and Thivanka Image House

This is right before turning to the Lotus Pond, Demala Maha Seya and Thivanka Image House

Shiva Devalaya

Shiva Devalaya

Here are some more pics

Here are some more pics

Rest of the area

Rest of the area

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

Endless

Endless

Alahana Pirivena must stretch as far as this

Alahana Pirivena must stretch as far as this

Ok, let's go now

Ok, let’s go now

Alahana Pirivena

We then walked towards the car park and quenched our thirst with long pulls from the water bottles before turning right to the Alahana Pirivena through which you have to get to the absolutely breath-taking and grandeur Kiri Vehera. Now talking about Alahana Pirivena, there had been 5000 monks resided in the monastery and guess what, every one of them had their own chamber (“Kuti” in Sinhala). So this gigantic monastery had 5000 individual chambers in the premises along with Refectories, Preaching Halls, Ponds & Wells and many other buildings.

The king was responsible for the well-being of the monks and it must’ve been a great deed to the Buddha Sashana. As usual, I’m gonna give you the contents of the archaeology sign located at the premises. Let’s see what it says:

Contents:

 Having an extent of 35 hectares, this is the largest monastery in Polonnaruwa extending from here up to Rankoth Vehera. Established by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.), the name suggests that the site had been a former cremation ground which has been confirmed by archaeological excavations carried out here in several places. It is believed that the small stupas here were built on the cremation sites of prelates or of the Royalty. The monastery has a terraced layout of Kiri Vehera, Lankathilaka Image House, Baddhasima Prasada and the small stupas (some of them are crematory stupas) and located on two upper terraces while the monastic hospital, ponds and hundreds of resident monks’ cellars are located on the lower terraces.”

So, what are we waiting for? Yeah, of course the pictures, ain’t it? Right, here they are but don’t spend too much time coz we’ve plenty to cover today and need to leave for Colombo as well.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Kiri Vehera

Kiri Vehera

Another pic

Another pic

The path, but our focus was to the right of the path for Alahana Pirivena

The path, but our focus was to the right of the path for Alahana Pirivena

These are mainly Monks' Cells

These are mainly Monks’ Cells

A sight I couldn't resist

A sight I couldn’t resist

There

There

Many more like these

Many more like these

One of the ponds

One of the ponds

See them stretch to the far

See them stretch to the far

Another angle of the pond

Another angle of the pond

There must be millions of stone pillars in this complex alone

There must be millions of stone pillars in this complex alone

The drainage system

The drainage system

Perfect square, completely made of stone

Perfect square, completely made of stone

Kiri Vehera

Kiri Vehera

One of the crematory stupas

One of the crematory stupas

Closer look

Closer look

Another

Another

5000 cells for the 5000 monks

5000 cells for the 5000 monks

The wall where the terraced layout is in place, Kiri Vehera is in that level

The wall where the terraced layout is in place, Kiri Vehera is in that level

Another drain

Another drain

Right, let's call it off and go to Kiri Vehera

Right, let’s call it off and go to Kiri Vehera

Kiri Vehera

Impressive, isn’t it? Alahana Pirivena has so many remains of chambers and halls that I could’ve taken more than a couple of thousand pictures. Now you know what it is, we’ll move into the other places but you haven’t seen the last of Alahana Pirivena coz after Rankoth Vehera, we’d come back into it from the other end. Kiri Vehera is located right next to the Alahana Pirivena but on an elevated area. So are Lankathilaka Image House and Baddha Seema Prasada.

Kiri Vehera is as the name suggests glistens with pristine white after its paint work. Well, as soon as you heard the name Kiri Vehera, it’s the Kataragama Kiri Vehera that comes into your mind, doesn’t it? Well, this is also Kiri Vehera and more than 900 years old. This is a sight worth seeing again and again if you can manage. The beautiful white Stupa rising into the royal blue sky full of even whiter clouds is something out of a dream. We didn’t feel the ferocity of the heat as there was a cool breeze flowing across us as if to feel us welcome.

I know now you’re very impatient to see the pictures and here they are without further delay. Take a look and tell me what you feel. Do you feel the same heavenly feeling as I did? Probably not coz seeing the pictures are not as half good as seeing them for real but you’ll have to be content with that for the time being if you haven’t been there already.

Oh before all that, what Kiri Vehera is? Here’s what the archaeology department has to say. I’m also putting the translation of the Kiri Vehera Inscription which is kept to the side of the stupa.

Contents:

Nothing is known about the ancient name or the stupa popularly known as Kiri Vehera. But it is speculated that this is the work of Queen Subhadra, a consort of King Parakrambahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.) The present name probably derives from the fact that its lime plaster of the dome is better preserved than of most other stupas in Polonnaruwa.”

Kiri Vehera Slab Inscription:

The inscription reveals victories of King Nissankamalla and General Lak Vijayagu Senevi in the wars with the countries such as Pandaya, Cola, Kalinga and Cambodia. As a memento of these victories the Hindu Temple, Nishshankeshwara was built in Rameshwaram. On his return after the victories a pavilion with this inscription was built for worshipping Lord Buddha’s relics.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Partially broken Moonstone

Partially broken Moonstone

Just had to wait for nearly quarter of an hour for this pic

Just had to wait for nearly quarter of an hour for this pic

Just don't know how long I could've waited like this

Just don’t know how long I could’ve waited like this

What do you think?

What do you think?

And this?

And this?

I could've taken hundreds of pics

I could’ve taken hundreds of pics

There you go

There you go

Small image houses in front of the stupa

Small image houses in front of the stupa

Here's the inscription

Here’s the inscription

Very long but broken in places

Very long but broken in places

A different setting

A different setting

Hevisi Mandapa Pavilion and Crematory Stupas

Our next stop was the Hevisi Mandapa in front of the Lankathilaka Image House which looked very much similar to the Nissankalatha Mandapa but without those beautifully carved and shaped pillars. Instead this too had some wonderfully crafted pillars with plenty of artwork. It was not mentioned what it really was but one of the guides said it really was a “Hevisi Mandapa” where the drummers played their drums for religious rituals like they do in Dalada Maligawa and all the Buddhist Temples. There were few other Crematory Stupas as well.

They were in different sizes and then we found the larger the stupa was, the higher the level of spiritual status of the monk was. For example, if a monk had obtained Arhath Level of Status, his remains would’ve been kept in a bigger stupa while someone with Anagami Level would be in a smaller one. It was really interesting and we walked around taking hundreds of pictures. We could see the almighty Lankathilaka Image House close by but before you go anywhere near that, take a look at these pictures. And then we’ll go see the marvelous Lankathilaka Image House. I’m gonna tell you how the name Lankathilaka came about so be ready.

Crematory stupa

Crematory stupa

Look at this drain

Look at this drain

Small one

Small one

Medium sized

Medium sized

Another tiny one, see the Lankathilaka Image House in the background?

Another tiny one, see the Lankathilaka Image House in the background?

Pavilion where they played drums

Pavilion where they played drums

Front view

Front view

So many pillars

So many pillars

Carvings too

Carvings too

You can see the tip of Kiri Vehera

You can see the tip of Kiri Vehera

There you are

There you are

Closer look of the lotus

Closer look of the lotus

More beyond where we stood

More beyond where we stood

One of my favourites. Main image of the Lankathilaka can be seen through the pavilion

One of my favourites. Main image of the Lankathilaka can be seen through the pavilion

Some more artwork

Some more artwork

One of the many

One of the many

Now to the biggest Image House

Now to the biggest Image House

Lankathilaka Image House

Now you’ve seen what the rest of the ruins are like including many more crematory stupas, let’s go see the third and probably the biggest of all image houses in Polonnaruwa. You remember, we saw Thuparama Image House yesterday and Thivanka Image House this morning both of them were simply amazing. Now it was time to see the Lankathilaka Image House which compared to the other two, somewhat more damaged. However the tall walls on the image house could be seen from the top of Demala Maha Seya along with Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera.

There were a few tourists walking about so we stayed for them to go to other places before visiting it as I wanted to have the place for myself as long as possible. You’d know why if you ever go to one of these archaeological places and find that there’s only you. You could in your own imagination go back in time and picture how it might have looked in the pinnacle of its time. Unfortunately, the stream of never ending visitors kept making it harder for me.

Now talking about the image house itself, one of the guides said that this is called Lankathilaka because it was like a gem for the whole country. Now let’s see what the archaeology department has to say about it all.

Contents:

This is the vaulted type (gedige) image house built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.) and is the largest image house built in ancient Sri Lanka. The two pylons at the entrance and the giant standing Buddha image inside signify its scale. There is evidence that the interior and exterior walls had been adorned with paintings. The stucco relief sculpture on the exterior walls show South Indian influence. Obvious indications are there that this image house had been renovated during the Dambadeniya period (13th century A.D.) the building with stone pillars in front of the image house may have been a pavilion for Hevisi Drummers.”

Well, before you go into the pictures, there’s another inscription found here which is called Lankathilaka Guard Stone Inscription. Let’s see what it says:

Lankathilaka Guard Stone Inscription:

Reign: Vijayabahu IV (1270-1272 A.D.)

Period: 13th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Pali

Contents:

Inscription mentions that King Vijayabahu IV renovated the Lankathilaka Vihara, hundred years after it was built by the great King Parakramabahu”

Ok, here we go.

Gigantic, isn't it?

Gigantic, isn’t it?

Grand

Grand

Korawakgala

Korawakgala

Left one

Left one

And the right

And the right

Another view

Another view

Amazingly beautiful

Amazingly beautiful

Do you see the carvings? They are found like this only here

Do you see the carvings? They are found like this only here

Broken statue, you saw something similar at Thivanka Image House

Broken statue, you saw something similar at Thivanka Image House

Entering

Entering

To the left wall

To the left wall

Like Thivanka Image House, partially broken

Like Thivanka Image House, partially broken

Full frame

Full frame

Right wall

Right wall

The narrow steps to the top

The narrow steps to the top

The tiny meditating pathway

The tiny meditating pathway

Inside, hundreds of bats screamed at me when I took this picture

Inside, hundreds of bats screamed at me when I took this picture

Other entrance

Other entrance

Through one of the windows

Through one of the windows

Looking back at the entrance

Looking back at the entrance

One of the side entrances

One of the side entrances

Some of the restoration work is going on

Some of the restoration work is going on

Next in line

Next in line

Baddha Seema Prasada

Ok, it really is something, isn’t it? Now, let’s go and see Baddha Seema Prasada a bit further from Lankathilaka itself. Baddha Seema Prasada is a Chapter House where they rehearsed the code of discipline. The place is in an area further elevated above the rest of the structures and around it is the ruins of magnanimous Alahana Pirivena. We saw a couple of more crematory stupa and two ponds where they probably bathed. It looked amazing and we could see both Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera either side of us.

Let’s see what this really is.

Contents:

This is the Uposathagara (Chapter House) of the monks of the Alahana Pirivena where they rehearsed the code of discipline (especially the Pati Mokka). The pillars and brick walls suggest that there had been a storied building. This is the largest Uposathagaras in the island and according to Mahavamsa was twelve storied. The central platform within the building was to locate the relic casket.”

All are crematory stupas

All are crematory stupas

Getting to the top of the terraced layout

Getting to the top of the terraced layout

Some more stupas

Some more stupas

We took a walk

We took a walk

Another pond

Another pond

Very narrow steps, probably one could've gone down or up at a time, don't know why?

Very narrow steps, probably one could’ve gone down or up at a time, don’t know why?

Further below

Further below

Another part of Alahana Pirivena

Another part of Alahana Pirivena

Oh, another pond

Oh, another pond

Just look at that

Just look at that

Waiting for a prey

Waiting for a prey

Another of my favorites

Another of my favorites

Ok, now let's go and see the Baddha Seema Prasadaya

Ok, now let’s go and see the Baddha Seema Prasadaya

Paths

Paths

Drain from an upper level

Drain from an upper level

Directed to the lower level

Directed to the lower level

Windows of the upper floor of Lankathilaka

Windows of the upper floor of Lankathilaka

There's our destination

There’s our destination

Never ending walk

Never ending walk

You can go around

You can go around

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The top layer of the area is for Baddha Seema Prasadaya

The top layer of the area is for Baddha Seema Prasadaya

Closer look

Closer look

Side walls

Side walls

Instructions to the visitors

Instructions to the visitors

There were many of these (note the white patch towards the middle of this pillar)

There were many of these (note the white patch towards the middle of this pillar)

It is this, gotta be very careful

It is this, gotta be very careful

Walked all around before entering

Walked all around before entering

Ready to go

Ready to go

Moonstone is intact

Moonstone is intact

Here interior

Here interior

Could've been the center stage but used for what?

Could’ve been the center stage but used for what?

Ruins all around

Ruins all around

Windows

Windows

So many pillars

So many pillars

There Rankoth Vehera

There Rankoth Vehera

Over the trees

Over the trees

Nice blue sky

Nice blue sky

The wall to the outside

The wall to the outside

From the back

From the back

Now, the big stupa

Now, the big stupa

Rankoth Vehera

Our next stop was Rankoth Vehera which we could’ve reached walking through the many thousands of ruins in Alahana Pirivena coz it covers so much ground and spreads from Kiri Vehera towards Rankoth Vehera. However, we decided to come back to the Gal Viharaya Car Park and take the car. It’s about 500m drive to the Rankoth Vehera and there’s a spacious car park as well. The roads are well maintained and looked after. We reached the not-so-crowded car park and got down to this majestic dark brown stupa looking as large as anything.

The towering stupa was really a sight to see and we hurried towards it as there were only a few people around. It was so hard to take pictures with the bustling crowds moving about. We got to the footpath that led to it and started clicking away. The sight was something incredible and I simply wanted just to sit and watch. However, the time was against us and I only wish we had another day, at least, to explore more closely. Right folks, let’s go see what the archaeological background this wonderful creation has before moving onto the pictures. There’s an inscription like in any other places.

Rankoth Dageba Pillar Inscription:

Reign: Nissankamalla (1187-1196 A.D.)

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

This inscription records that the king inspected the main cities and villages of the country and rendered all beings to live without fear. The methods for economic progress and the victories gained from the Cola and the Pandaya wars are mentioned. This inscription is inscribed on the pavilion from which his majesty worshipped the relics in the Ruwanweli or the Rankoth Dageba.”

Did you notice that Rankoth Vehera is also known as Ruwanweli Vehera? Well, it’s getting really interesting, isn’t it? Until I read this, I didn’t know anything about it. That’s why you need to be very thorough when visiting archaeological sites such as this coz there are many things, seemingly trivial, we miss out due to various reasons. I really must go again and see them leisurely, probably leaving my camera behind.

There’s another inscription and let’s read that as well before moving on.

Rankoth Dageba Gal Asana (Stone Seat) Inscription:

Reign: Nissankamalla (1187-1196 A.D.)

Period: 12th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

This inscription includes records of donations and the war victories of the king. It further mentions the stone seat on which this is inscribed was the seat from which king observed the construction of the Ranweli Dageba or the Rankoth Vehera at Polonnaruwa.”

Oops

Oops

Amazing

Amazing

The Kotha of Rankoth Vehera

The Kotha of Rankoth Vehera

A structure before the stupa

A structure before the stupa

Here it is

Here it is

Stupa is about 50m from here

Stupa is about 50m from here

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The inscription

The inscription

Closer look, can you see the precision area like a single rule book

Closer look, can you see the precision area like a single rule book

Good view

Good view

Through the trees

Through the trees

Looks like a huge tank

Looks like a huge tank

Towards the upper part

Towards the upper part

Full frame with image houses

Full frame with image houses

So many of them

So many of them

There in front

There in front

Small moonstone

Small moonstone

Buddha Statue

Buddha Statue

Just look at this

Just look at this

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

This is where the pillar inscription is

This is where the pillar inscription is

Can you see the writing?

Can you see the writing?

Some more

Some more

Structures beyond the stupa

Structures beyond the stupa

Another image house

Another image house

Stony doorframe

Stony doorframe

Inside with flash

Inside with flash

Another angle

Another angle

Stone window

Stone window

Closer view

Closer view

Ok, let's move on

Ok, let’s move on

Monastic Hospital Complex

It really was a great sight to walk around this majestic creation. We then started walking towards the Alahana Pirivena from the other end. If you remember my first trip to Ritigala Archaeological Site, I showed you a hospital complex which must’ve been very modern at the time. So inside the Alahana Pirivena, we came across another hospital which was used by the monks in the monastery. It further proves this monastery was self-sufficient in every possible manner and the kings provided generously for the well-being of Maha Sangha and Buddha Sashana.

The place seemed to have had many different areas for the monks probably depending on their condition and we even saw the remains of a herbal tub made of stone where the patients were submerged in herbals in the pond. Let’s see what the history says of this place.

Contents:

Archaeological excavations here have confirmed that this is an ancient hospital. One room has still a stone cut medicine trough (Beheth Oruwa) which has been used for treating patients by immersing in herbal oil. Several surgical and medical equipment used at the time have been found during excavations at the site. This 12th century hospital more or less follows the 8th century Mihintale prototype.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here it is

Here it is

Let's go in

Let’s go in

Pretty big

Pretty big

Here's the stone trough

Here’s the stone trough

Toilet

Toilet

Probably a drainage pit

Probably a drainage pit

Side view

Side view

Moving on

Moving on

Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter & Inscription.

Our next stop was the Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter which is about 50m opposite the hospital inside the Alahana Pirivena. Nowadays, it’s a slightly raised rock with a huge Nuga tree grown on the top. There was no sign explaining what this place really was but they’d put the meaning of the inscription. Let’s first see what it says and then probably the pictures will help you make out what it really is. However, as the inscription had been done in either 1st or 2nd century, it looks as if there had been people well before the pinnacle of Polonnaruwa era which was the 12th century during King Parakramabahu the Great and Nissankamalla.

In addition to this, we walked a bit around the Alahana Pirivena further examining the ruins and you’ll also see more pictures after the Gopala Pabbatha.

Gopala Pabbatha Rock Inscription:

Period: 1-2 Century A.D.

Script: Later Brahmi

Language: Old Sinhala

Contents:

A donation to the Chulagala Viharaya by Chula Ahalya, son of Ayatiya Buta is mentioned in the inscription.”

It's over there

It’s over there

Can you see?

Can you see?

Like a door

Like a door

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Mostly rubbed off

Mostly rubbed off

Closer

Closer

Going to the top

Going to the top

See the Nuga invasion

See the Nuga invasion

Huge one

Huge one

This is through that door

This is through that door

Lower side

Lower side

There you are

There you are

Many cells of Alahana Pirivena

Many cells of Alahana Pirivena

Some more

Some more

Here

Here

The path from Baddha Seema Prasada to the Rankoth Vehera

The path from Baddha Seema Prasada to the Rankoth Vehera

Baddha Seema Prasada is over this

Baddha Seema Prasada is over this

Another drain

Another drain

I simply couldn't get enough of this

I simply couldn’t get enough of this

Portrait

Portrait

Menik Vehera

Now the time is getting past 1pm and the sun is ever so unforgiving. We must’ve drunk more than 14 liters of water from yesterday yet still feel mighty thirsty. So we topped ourselves more with water and decided to go for the last prominent attraction for the day. However, despite our meticulous planning and walking, we still missed quite a few places of interest which means, will need another day or two at this grandeur place.

We decided to leave the car and started walking towards the Menik Vehera about 200m away which felt like 2km in the end. You have to walk backwards as in towards the inner Citadel or where the Dalada Maluwa is to visit the Menik Vehera. It’ll be there just outside the Inner Citadel. This is not a tall stupa like Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera thus not that much visible from the main road. Only a few people visit this place as a result, especially the foreigners who carry a map of the ancient kingdom.

Contents:

Popularly known as Menki Vehera, the history of the monastery is not known. But according to the architectural features, it could date back to the 8-9 centuries A.D. This monastery has a terraced layout and consists of a stupa, a bodhigira, refectory, monks’ dispensary and cells. Built on a high terrace surrounded by a high wall, the stupa here is of a rare type.”

The path

The path

Have to climb up

Have to climb up

Monk's cell

Monk’s cell

Lavatory

Lavatory

Full length

Full length

Squatting pan

Squatting pan

There it is

There it is

Closer view

Closer view

Surrounding image houses

Surrounding image houses

From the front

From the front

Damaged a lot

Damaged a lot

Another

Another

Muragal

Muragal

That's the Bodhigara

That’s the Bodhigara

There you can see the sign

There you can see the sign

Surrounding cells

Surrounding cells

Ok, go see what this is

Ok, go see what this is

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Here we go

Here we go

Left

Left

Right

Right

A jumbo, haven't seen that before

A jumbo, haven’t seen that before

Lion faced tablets etched into the wall

Lion faced tablets etched into the wall

Through the granite doorframe

Through the granite doorframe

Apparently there had been a structure here as well

Apparently there had been a structure here as well

Like Kota Vehera, they've cut it open

Like Kota Vehera, they’ve cut it open

Other ruins around

Other ruins around

See the wall covering the stupa?

See the wall covering the stupa?

Time to go

Time to go

Trade Stalls, Well and Shiva Devalaya

Ok, here’s the last part of our journey where we walked back to the car park from the Menik Vehera. There were many ancient remains of Trade Stalls either side of the road which must’ve been quite a sight in the old days. I wonder what they might have sold and how the royalty and the others went shopping. In addition to the trade stalls, there were a couple of wells littered with plastic bottles and garbage by our so-called visitors and another small Shiva Devalaya. Well, you must be tired after checking so many things (well over 200 word pages) so will show you the pictures without further delay.

Well paved road

Well paved road

Walls bordering the road

Walls bordering the road

Many of these along the road

Many of these along the road

Shiva Devalaya

Shiva Devalaya

There you go

There you go

Shiva Lingam

Shiva Lingam

One of the wells

One of the wells

Another

Another

Rains had made a pool

Rains had made a pool

There are the trade stalls

There are the trade stalls

Some more

Some more

Either side of the road

Either side of the road

The last one before we left

The last one before we left

Couldn't have been a better picture

Couldn’t have been a better picture

Ok, what do you think? Don’t tell me it took you one week to finish the report. To be honest, I’ve never felt this tired before after writing a report, not even after the Lakegala. However, I hope someone, especially the kids, will learn something out of it and I’ve done enough to satisfy their curious little minds and tempted their hearts to go see these wonderful creations.

We must teach our younger generation the value of these things so that they’ll safeguard them for the years to come. Tell them what a proud nation we’d been in the past when the rest of the world was nothing but crawling along the ocean floor. I hope I’ve achieved my target in the two chapters and you and your kids learnt something worthwhile.

Well, time for me to say bye for now and will see you soon with a brand new fairy tale. This is Sri signing off for now.

Take care!

Sri…

Grand Jumbo Bonanza – Udawalawe National Park…

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Year and Month 3 & 4 May, 2015
Number of Days 2
Crew Lasantha, Podi, Dimuthu & Me
Accommodation Pokunuthenna Wildlife Bungalow, Udawalawe
Transport By Bus & Hired Jeep
Activities Relaxing, Photography, Wildlife, Safari, etc…
Weather Excellent (Showers in the late afternoon but no problem for our plans)
Route Nugegoda->Udawalawe by Bus.Udawalawe Safari by JeepBack to Colombo by Bus.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Pokunuthenna is one of the five Bungalows inside the park and is a very nice and cozy place to stay and can be booked either from the Wildlife Office at Battaramulla or online on their website.
  • It was Rs. 6,963.03 for one day and can accommodate up to 10 people. This is the furthest located bungalow in Udawalawe almost at one end about 24km from the park entrance.
  • Behind the Pokunuthenna Bungalow is the Tank and beyond lies villages of Weli Oya and Hambegamuwa.
  • Sanath @ Udawalawe (0777-360035) is one of the jeep owners and is a very good person.
  • When you make a booking, you don’t have to pay for the park fees but must pay for the vehicle. (We paid Rs. 280/-)
  • Take all the essentials things with you such as food items, linen, etc. Even though the bungalow will provide a bed cover, it’s not advisable to depend on that.
  • There’s no extra charge at the Bungalow other than the booking such as Electricity or Gas.
  • Don’t wander around the Bungalow as there are elephants roaming around, especially at night.
  • Two bungalow keepers, Nishantha and Dhammika are very good and can cook wonderfully.
  • There’s no electricity at the bungalow, only the solar-powered lighting. So don’t expect to charge your phones, etc.
  • There’s drinking water at the bungalow but the taste can be a bit funny (you know slightly brackish). So it’s recommended you take your own (couple of 5-litre cans will suffice) if it’s a problem for you.
  • Ath Athuru Sevana (Elephant Transit Home) is open for public from morning but the baby elephant feeding times are 9am, 12 noon, 3pm and 6pm. So try to visit during one of those sessions.
  • You have to buy a ticket for the Elephant Transit Home, Rs. 20/- per person. Rs. 10/- for children and Rs. 5/- for school kids.
  • Help protect the Mother Nature.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Alintai, Lamaintai – Naliyantamai Hitha.” (Elephants and Kids are always very playful)

“Ali Belillei, Bali Belillei – Iwarayak Ne.” (One can’t get enough of watching Elephants and Cultural Ritual called ‘Bali’)

I’m sure most of the Sri Lankan, if not all, have heard the above sayings related to elephants or jumbos as many refer to them. They are such lovely creatures of the Mother Nature. I simply can’t get enough of watching them, especially when they are in their natural habitat. Many say they are one of the most intelligent animals in the world and have long memories. Watching them in their home turf is something I really love. My memories of the Maduru Oya Journey still keep me going despite having seen only a few. This time I longed for more jumbos and the Mother Nature had already decided to grant her son’s innocent wishes.

One of my friends is gonna get married in September so he wanted to go on a relaxing journey before his arms and legs are tied. As I’d not been to Udawalawe before, this turned out to be the perfect opportunity. Apparently the scary things bring along good and happy returns with them. So we planned the journey during the Vesak as we all could get away without an issue. However, this time there wasn’t any of my Lakdasun buddies to accompany me. It was just the four of us, my close friends outside Lakdasun. So we all got ready to spend a night at one of national park known to harbor more than 300 jumbos. Our biggest concern, if we’d get a better bungalow.

There are four known bungalows at Udawalawe. They are Seenuggala, Thimbiriya Mankada, Gonawiddagala and Weheragolla. When I visited the Wildlife Department website to make the booking online (this is a great thing introduced by them. It saves so much trouble and painstaking process many undergo until not so long ago), none of those bungalows was available. Gonawiddagala and Thimbiriya Mankada were highly recommended but I had no luck. There was however a fifth option, Pokunuthenna, and it’s not listed in the information page for the bungalows which has photos and accommodation details. I was in two minds whether to cancel our jumbo watching and do something else coz every wildlife bungalow at all the national parks was booked.

This was when one of my friends came to our rescue. She said that I was indeed very lucky to have got the chance to go to Pokunuthenna and it hadn’t been available for booking for some time. So without any more haggling, I went on and did the booking, fingers crossed. The online booking process is very efficient and they even send you a text message with the reference number. You can go back and keep an eye out for the status of the booking as well. So let’s hope we would get a better experience.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Ath Athuru Sevana (Elephant Transit Home), Udawalawe.
  2. Udawalawe Reservoir & the Dam.
  3. Udawalawe National Park.

The whole country was busy with the preparations for the Vesak while we did the final touches on the planning. This time I was without any of the old and trustworthy traveling companions so everything had to be fixed and looked after by me. It took so much scribbling and changing before I arrived at the food items to be taken to the bungalow. We decided to have only two meals at the bungalow making it easy for planning and taking the food items. The shops would be closed so we bought all the dry rations on the 2 May. Everything was in order when I finally hit the sack on the eve of Vesak.

Day 01

Getting up at 2am, I got ready and joined my friends at the bus stop around 3am. It was another good half hour before an Embilipitiya bus arrived by which time we were ready to go back to sleep on the pavement. The golden plate like moon was high in the sky signaling it was a full moon Poya day. The bus was jam packed with people but we didn’t wanna wait for another and managed to squeeze in. I was hoping to catch up on the lost sleep in the bus but big fat chance I had in the current state. We set off being squashed from all around. We fell asleep standing and hanging from the bars.

After swaying as if in a boat amid a rough sea, we got seats closer to Sankhapala. There were hundreds of white clad devotees at the Sankhapala RMV despite the early hour. Finally, we arrived at the Udawalawe junction just after 7.30am and started our journey towards the reservoir on Thanamalwila Road. From the Udawalawe junction, Elephant Transit Camp is located about 3km away and you could take a Udawalawe bus or anything going along that road which is the Thanamalwila-Thimbolketiya road. However feeling ravenous, we stepped in to a nearby shop which was doing a soaring business of breakfast, rice and curry. After a tiring and sleepless bus ride, a hot meal was just what the doctor ordered so we went in and savored every morsel of our meal. Now let’s do something fruitful than having a plateful of rice.

Elephant Transit Camp aka Ath Athuru Sevana

We first decided to take a walk to the dam as there was no sign of a bus but about 100m into our walk, there came a bus and we hopped in. They dropped us near the Udawalawe closer to the Transit Camp. From there we walked towards the dam in the hope of getting a few pictures. There were hundreds of vehicles going on the road probably to Tissamaharama and Kataragama. When we reached the dam, we were fully exposed to the burning down sun. Within seconds we were soaked with sweat and everyone complained about having to walk in the fierce heat. Nevertheless, we walked for a couple of hundred meters and saw the faint outline of the mountain range that runs from Kalthota via Diyawinna towards Gevilipola. Sensational Diyawini Ella could also be seen amid the thick haze but taking a picture was impossible. The fishing boats were anchored to the right of the reservoir due to the Poya.

My friends never stopped grumbling so I decided to save the trouble and turned around to visit the Elephant Calves. But, you would surely wanna see some pictures, so here they are.

On the dawn of Vesak

On the dawn of Vesak

Placid water

Placid water

Not fishing on Poya Day

Not fishing on Poya Day

Oh, hi baby!

Oh, hi baby!

Hello there!

Hello there!

Here's where people bathe, can see from the amount of garbage left

Here’s where people bathe, can see from the amount of garbage left

No one has come yet

No one has come yet

Now this is just abandoned

Now this is just abandoned

Ok, over to Ath Athuru Sevana

Ok, over to Ath Athuru Sevana

On the way towards the Transit Camp, we met Sanath and he said the jeep would be coming to the camp shortly. So we hurried to the camp and found a large group of people already inside while a few others were trying to get through the gate. It was five minutes to nine, just before the first of four times those calves are fed. Feeling lucky, we too hurriedly bought the tickets and ran out to the viewing platform beyond which was the feeding center. Now you don’t have to run with us, take it easy and lemme give you an overview of the place.

“Overview of Elephant Transit Camp

There are over 30 (we counted 31) baby elephants in different ages and sizes being looked after at present. They are resided in the park and brought to the feeding center during four times a day. They are from 9am until 6pm at three-hour intervals which mean 9am, 12 noon, 3pm and 6pm. They are fed Lactogen 2 powdered milk. You have to buy tickets to enter into the premises which is Rs. 20/- each for adults, Rs. 10/- each for children and Rs. 5/- each for school kids. The money collected selling the tickets goes to the well-being of the elephants and if you are really interested, you could become a sort of poster parent by sponsoring one or more elephants for their quota of milk. The parking area is open for the public only just before and during the feeding times so make sure you plan your arrival at an appropriate time.”

Now you know what to expect let’s go experience this wonderful sight. By the time we arrived on the platform, there was a big crowd but managed to squeeze through and find a better place to watch the proceedings. Elephants were coming from their resident areas and were waiting outside an electric fence some 50m from the feeding shed. One officer was keeping them in order with the help of a stick. At the shed, there are 3-4 counters where calves can come and claim their rations. Closer to the platform but separated by another electric fence (so that they wouldn’t come near the public) is an open ground almost two volleyball courts in size. There were branches of jack tree lying around so that they could munch on them after the milk.

There was a heart-breaking site of a small calf with the lower part of its right hind leg missing, probably blown off by a landmine. The wildlife officials had fixed him with an artificial lower part made of steel. The stump had been fixed to an open basket like metal container slightly bigger than the leg so that it would fit nicely. The basket had holes in it probably for ventilation. It then had a metal stick attached to the bottom so that the calf could walk even with a difficulty. The sight of this cute little one walking made me feel so sorry for the fellow. He’s kept at the feeding site separate from the others coz he can’t move freely and the chances of him getting injured again are high.

Before any of the others came in they allowed him to have his quota of milk and this was a very sorrowful but a new experience. He finished his milk and dragged himself to the open field much to the delight of the kids watching him. We heard kinda deep growls made by the impatiently waiting calves. Finally the wire fence was open but the officer allowed only a couple of them at a time otherwise it’d have been a huge uproar at the feeding shed.

The first group came running and making noises before coming to an abrupt halt in front of the feeding rack. The officers had a time control their impatient demands. Most of them drank their quota hungrily while some spilled most of the milk in their hurry. The first group finished but they simply didn’t wanna leave. They hung around the shed in the hope of more milk but another officer with a stick chased them to the open field.

Then came the second, third and fourth batch of baby jumbos and got busy with their drinking. One tiny fellow drank his milk kneeling on the ground as if asking for more or maybe even thanking for providing him with milk. Another tiny fellow kept screaming for more milk and defying the stick. I remembered Tom Sawyer and him asking for a second helping of the watery soup but got a beating instead. Sometimes a calf would drink his milk from the rubber hose attached to the container while putting his little trunk over the rack to straight to the container itself trying to be a bit cheeky and drink simultaneously in two ways. Some large elephants refused to drink from the hose and the officers poured the milk into the cement tank on the ground.

It was another thing that made us all laughing from ear to ear. A couple of the calves drank their milk, and then wandered off to the open ground. After a while they slowly circled around and joined the queue once again to have milk. The first one or two were successful and had a second helping but the others only received a bash on their backs. After finishing the leaves lying on the open ground they were herded back out of the center and we decided to explore the visitor center before going out. I know you must be craving for those pictures and here they are before we show you around.

Ok, now you are as content as those calves, aren’t you? Let’s see what the information center has to offer. It has wall papers with valuable information pertaining to the jumbos, their history, how they evolved from mammoths, present condition and future difficulties. There were a few elephant skulls as well. The most prominent one was the complete skeleton of a jumbo assembled at the entrance to the information center. I remembered the whale skeleton in the national museum. Meanwhile, I received a call from Akalanka, our jeep driver and we went out to join him. Take a look at some of the pictures before we go.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Can you see the stump and the metal attachment?

Can you see the stump and the metal attachment?

What a sight!

What a sight!

He goes away after the quota and the others arrive

He goes away after the quota and the others arrive

Difficult job to contain them

Difficult job to contain them

Running like hell

Running like hell

"Please uncle, give me some more"

“Please uncle, give me some more”

"A little bit more please"

“A little bit more please”

"Is there anything left?"

“Is there anything left?”

"This cable is not so big"

“This cable is not so big”

"Oh dear! You spilled all of them"

“Oh dear! You spilled all of them”

"Hurry sis, I can't wait anymore"

“Hurry sis, I can’t wait anymore”

"Here we come"

“Here we come”

Play time

Play time

Munching on leaves

Munching on leaves

Away they go

Away they go

A sorrowful sight

A sorrowful sight

The sleeping doggy couldn't be bothered

The sleeping doggy couldn’t be bothered

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

A jumbo skeleton

A jumbo skeleton

From the back

From the back

Rib cage

Rib cage

Tail and the back

Tail and the back

Skull

Skull

Foot

Foot

Full body

Full body

Entrance to the hall

Entrance to the hall

Inside

Inside

Set of teeth

Set of teeth

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Our jeep

Our jeep

We drove to a shop and bought everything in the list. It took so much effort and time agreeing on the meals. It is so complicated when you think of how many ingredients are required to cook a meal. No wonder they say cooking is an art and put so much emphasis on the techniques. If one tiny thing is missing, the whole curry would be tasteless. Afterwards we came to the junction and ordered lunch packets to take with us saving having to cook another meal. So finally around 11am we started our drive to the entrance passing the dam. Towards the other end, we saw the beggar elephant waiting for someone ignorant person to throw something at him.

There are many signs placed all along the road in all three languages requesting not to feed the fellow warning that he’s still a wild elephant and can be dangerous. Unfortunately not many heed the advice. As we were passing there was a long tailback on the dam. It’s prohibited to park on the dam itself but that like not feeding the jumbo had fallen in deaf ears. There were vehicles waiting for their turn to get closer to the jumbo and probably feed him. There already was a lady carrying a kid in one hand and an umbrella in the other dangerously close to the elephant. Her group was inside the van taking pictures and others getting out to join the lady with the kid. This was beyond being silly and unnecessarily putting not only one’s life but also the little kids’ lives in danger. Here look at the pictures.

What's the traffic?

What’s the traffic?

Holy moly guacamole

Holy moly guacamole

When will they learn?

When will they learn?

Looks innocent but he's a wild elephant

Looks innocent but he’s a wild elephant

Udawalawe National Park

We drove and entered the park. You have to drive another few hundred meters to the ticketing office. There’s also the car park where if you want, can leave your vehicle overnight when staying inside the park. We produced our online booking papers and were asked to pay for the jeep which was Rs. 280/-. Our tracker was a young wildlife officer, whose hometown is nearby, named Prasad (not my Lakegala mate Dodam) and we entered the forest. We showed our permit to the officer at the entrance to the jungle and were waved through.

Here we are

Here we are

Entering

Entering

Not functioning anymore as I heard

Not functioning anymore as I heard

Ticket office

Ticket office

Inside

Inside

Nice replicas

Nice replicas

Some more

Some more

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Elephant collar

Elephant collar

Close up

Close up

Some more

Some more

Ready to go in

Ready to go in

“Facts about Udawalawe National Park:

Established: 30 Jun 1972

Area: 30,821 ha (76,160.30 acres)

Details: Before the designation of the national park, the area was used for shifting cultivation (Chena Farming). The farmers were gradually removed once the national park was declared. The park is 165 km (103 mi) from Colombo. Udawalawe is an important habitat for water birds and Sri Lankan elephants. It is a popular tourist destination and the third most visited park in the country.

The Udawalawe Elephant Transit Home was established in 1995 for the purpose of looking after abandoned elephant calves within the park. A total of nine calves, on two occasions in 1998 and 2000, with another eight calves in 2002, were released in the park when old enough to fend for themselves. Currently there are some 30+ calves in residence.”

Safari in Progress

Lemme give you a short description of the layout of the Udawalawe National Park. Until this was declared a national park in 1972, the forest had been cleared for Chena Cultivation. As a result, even today the first half of the park is more like an open ground with bushes and a few trees scattered every now and then. Due to the jumbos feeding on the tiny plants such as teak, even today this area doesn’t have many trees. It’s one of the reasons why you can see jumbos very easily. Most of the 3-hour safaris roam around these open areas. However if you go deeper into the park such as Seenuggala and Pokunuthenna, you will be able to experience the typical jungle very much like Wilpattu and Yala.

As soon as we entered into the park, we came across the first of many jumbos we encountered in the journey. He was resting under the shade of a tree, leaning against it keeping his eyes half closed. The fierce heat bothered them as much as us even though their skins are thick enough to endure the hardships of the jungle keeping them safe from the thorny bushes and trees. He made an imposing sight and I filled my memory card with more than a dozen pictures. Ok, let’s go see what else is in store for us. Already Mother Nature kept her promise and as the day progressed, we’d come across many dozens. You wanna see what he looks like, don’t you before we move on?

How do you like the fella? Well before we go any further, lemme tell you the birds we saw in addition to the number of jumbos. Pokunuthenna is a great place for birding and our Lakdasun birders would love it there. We saw many but managed to picture only a handful of them. I’m not a great bird watcher and my knowledge of them is as good as my Greek. Finding their names was like my Advanced Level Pure Maths paper. You know the names of the complex formulas but that is as far as you would go. But, after a lot of time and searching, I’ve found the names of them. Here we go:

  1. Red-Wattled Lapwing (Kirala)
  2. Changeable Hawk Eagle (Crested Hawk-Eagle)
  3. Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Crested Honey-Buzzard)
  4. Indian Peafowl (Peacock)
  5. Purple Heron
  6. Common Kingfisher
  7. Sirkeer Malkoha (Southern Sirkeer)
  8. Malabar Pied Hornbill

Ok, now that is taken care of, we might go on. We came to an abrupt halt after a short time to find a large group of jumbos, mainly calves and females, resting under a huge tree. Some of the tiny ones were sleeping on the ground under their mummies’ tummies. The bushes prevented us getting a better picture of them but the rest of the group, a dozen or so, just stayed still as if trying to fall asleep. However our intrusion must have woken them from their after lunch siesta. This was a sight I had been dreaming about and we spent nearly half hour until my friends got tired before moving once again.

The tiny ones kept moving about not allowing their mothers to settle down. Do you know that elephants are have the longest pregnancy period? The elephant mothers hold their babies for 22 months, yeah you heard right, nearly two years, before giving birth to their calves. Just imagine having to bear a baby for nearly two years. The little ones looked so cute and playful and I felt like jumping out, running to them and hug those tiny fellows. You can watch these cute darlings all day long without batting an eyelid. Well, enough of my descriptions and you enjoy the pictures.

What do you think? Sensational isn’t it? Well we saw two other groups like that during the safari and a couple of others as well. I didn’t honestly expect to see that many elephants in that time of the day because it was so hot but Mother Nature took pity on us and asked those jumbos to welcome us. Well I guess it’s time I let you enjoy the rest of them as well before we moved to the thick forest on our way to the bungalow. Here you go, enjoy them to the fullest but come back for the last leg coz I’ve got a couple of hawks to show you.

The first one

The first one

All alone

All alone

Bye mate

Bye mate

Another loner

Another loner

Another

Another

A dead water buffalo

A dead water buffalo

One of the many tiny ponds

One of the many tiny ponds

View through the jeep

View through the jeep

A pair of them

A pair of them

Looking for something?

Looking for something?

Another pond

Another pond

First big group

First big group

Sheltering from the piercing sun

Sheltering from the piercing sun

Hiding its trunk

Hiding its trunk

Rest of the group

Rest of the group

I like this one

I like this one

See the tiny fellow

See the tiny fellow

That thick bundle in the middle is a baby elephant sleeping on the ground

That thick bundle in the middle is a baby elephant sleeping on the ground

He's away from the herd

He’s away from the herd

Posing

Posing

Another

Another

Loner found after

Loner found after

Greeting us

Greeting us

See you!

See you!

Another pair

Another pair

Saying hello

Saying hello

Smiley face

Smiley face

Crossing the road

Crossing the road

No hurry

No hurry

Second lot

Second lot

Similar expressions

Similar expressions

A pregnant lady?

A pregnant lady?

He's exhausted

He’s exhausted

There a tiny one

There a tiny one

Oh yes, she is pregnant alright

Oh yes, she is pregnant alright

Protecting the little one

Protecting the little one

See hiding behind

See hiding behind

Don't forget to eat though

Don’t forget to eat though

I simply love those tiny calves

I simply love those tiny calves

The whole group

The whole group

Oh, no head

Oh, no head

Like the posture

Like the posture

Keep munching

Keep munching

Another pond

Another pond

Oh ho, having a great time

Oh ho, having a great time

Completely relaxed.

Completely relaxed.

Ok, now I’m getting hungry so let’s go to the bungalow for lunch. Our lunch packets are still hot thanks to the unforgiving sun. We drove along the road and entered the buffer zone between the thick forest and the open area. It was like a mixture of both and the signs of the jungle slowly advancing towards the open terrain were visible. This is when we noticed a hawk resting on top of a dead tree. This was well my second countable encounter with one (the first was at Archeological Site in Polonnaruwa) and we spent some time taking the pictures. The fella had a few feathers (a crest) on top of his head like a crown giving it the name Crested Hawk Eagle. It’s also known as Changeable Hawk Eagle. He looked absolutely sensational and here are the pictures.

There he is

There he is

See how he balances

See how he balances

Closer

Closer

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Another

Another

Look at the crest

Look at the crest

Let's see the other one

Let’s see the other one

Passing him, we came across another fellow but this time a slightly different one. It was an Oriental Honey-Buzzard or Crested Honey-Buzzard. He stayed on a tree branch right by the road but flew as we settled down but the long range in my camera managed to capture a few more pictures of the fella. Here they are.

One of my favorites

One of my favorites

Love the colors

Love the colors

Just then he flew away

Just then he flew away

But went to this branch

But went to this branch

Shady branches didn't help

Shady branches didn’t help

A bit clear

A bit clear

The path to the bungalow, note the thick forest

The path to the bungalow, note the thick forest

Just before the group of deer ran away

Just before the group of deer ran away

Well, after him, we entered the thick forest and carried on the shady road. On our way, we passed the turn off to the Seenuggala Bungalow. The journey was uneventful except for a few spotted deer that ran across the road, too fast for a picture. Finally we arrived at the bungalow almost at the edge of the park bordered by the Pokunuthenna Tank thus the name for the bungalow as well. I’ve given a fairly detailed description and a few pictures on a separate post. Check the Pokunuthenna Bungalow Post here. I’ll give you some more pictures while we have our lunch. Be seeing you soon!

Here we are

Here we are

Spacious

Spacious

Worn out

Worn out

Dining area

Dining area

You definitely need those mosquito nets

You definitely need those mosquito nets

Another room

Another room

Behind

Behind

The other half

The other half

Side view

Side view

Another view

Another view

Solar panels

Solar panels

Ok, if you have enjoyed them, I’m gonna show you a little more around the bungalow. As I said earlier, this is located at one end of the park and beyond the electric fence and the tank are the villages of Hambegamuwa and Weli Oya. Nishantha, one of the keepers, said it is only 6km to the Hambegamuwa main road from the bungalow. Well look at these pictures while we take it easy and relax. Afterwards we’re going to have a cuppa coffee.

Our jeep is taking a break

Our jeep is taking a break

Behind the bungalow facing the tank

Behind the bungalow facing the tank

Thick tree cover is a godsend

Thick tree cover is a godsend

Tank with many water plants

Tank with many water plants

With the bungalow

With the bungalow

Where the water tank is

Where the water tank is

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

The dam

The dam

Beautiful, ain't it?

Beautiful, ain’t it?

Beyond this is the village

Beyond this is the village

Some water surface

Some water surface

The electric fence blocking jumbos going from this end to the village

The electric fence blocking jumbos going from this end to the village

Oh hi!

Oh hi!

Lasantha looking for any birds

Lasantha looking for any birds

Another of my favorites

Another of my favorites

Good one to end the day

Good one to end the day

Ok pals, while you were at it, we spent some quality time chatting and drinking surprisingly good coffee. I can hear the dinner is being made as we speak. It’s gonna be Soya Meat, Gotukola, Potato Curry, Mushroom (yummy, yummy) with Papadam. We had dinner a lot earlier than any other group and the bungalow keepers kept saying this was the first time four-person group arrived coz always they bring the full complement of 10 or very likely a couple extra as well.

Well, that is not how we do things. The night arrived in all four corners enveloping the bungalow. We heard towards the evening, farmers of the bordering paddy fields making noises to chase the elephants. When that didn’t work, they fired an elephant cracker too. I was hoping for those jumbos to pay a visit to us and had my torch ready but none appeared. Ok folks, we’re going to hit the sack and I can hear mosquitoes circling around making that dreadful noise. Thankfully we’ve got the nets even though I hate to sleep in that confined space of a net; it felt good to have it. It’s been a long and wonderful day experiencing many new things. So the Udawalawe treated us really well in our first ever journey. Did I tell you that there is only solar powered electricity here? However we saw the bungalow keepers watching TV, probably using a small generator (couldn’t hear any noise though) or a battery.

We’re no fans of the TV and can live without electricity for a while so settling comfortably in our new home, we went to sleep. I simply couldn’t take the jumbos, especially those cute little darlings off my mind. I was hoping for a jumbo to come in the night and make a roar or something but they must have decided to let us have a good sleep. I’ll see you in the morning folks, good night!

Day 02

Good morning folks and I hope you slept soundly. We enjoyed the cool air coming from the Pokunuthenna tank. The birds were out in numbers looking for some breakfast and we had our tea while contemplating the day ahead. It was the second day of Vesak and the end of a long holiday so we had to make it as early as to the bus stand to get home early. After a few pictures around the bungalow, we got ready to have our breakfast. While we eat, why don’t you look at them?

While we eat this, you check the pics

While we eat this, you check the pics

Good morning Pokunuthenna!

Good morning Pokunuthenna!

Morning rays

Morning rays

Clear water

Clear water

Fully red

Fully red

Floating

Floating

My team looking for hawks

My team looking for hawks

Saw only this one

Saw only this one

Birds' nest

Birds’ nest

Home grown

Home grown

Morning stroll

Morning stroll

The road to the village

The road to the village

We took a walk

We took a walk

Oh ho

Oh ho

Not edible

Not edible

Prasad is next to me while Akalanka is right corner

Prasad is next to me while Akalanka is right corner

Two chefs, Dhammika and Nishantha

Two chefs, Dhammika and Nishantha

We then took our leave bidding farewell to our cooks. On our way our first encounter was a peacock sitting majestically on top of a tree branch. We then saw a parrot looking through a hole in a tree but we couldn’t get pictures of him as he got frightened by our arrival. Afterwards Prasad pointed at a bird on the road ahead of me and he said it was the Sirkeer Malkoha. The fella went ahead of us for about a couple of hundred meters keeping us on our toes and making us delay as we tried to take as many pictures of him as possible. He would walk a bit then raise its head to hear and look then put it low and run for a few feet before doing the same again. The way he ran with the head low was a great sight. Here look for yourself.

Afterwards it was the Hawks that kept us going. We saw at least half a dozen of them but got lucky to picture only three. The first fella was feeding on a dead rather killed bird. He was plucking the feathers in an attempt to dig up what little meat was there. Sensing our presence, he then flew with the prey. The second one was on top of a dead tree (must be their favorite place to sit and watch) and after a while flew away. All the time there was not a sign of the jumbos as if they wouldn’t wanna come out of their homes. I was frantically searching for them when there was another Crested Hawk Eagle sitting on a short stick sunbathing. He was very vigilant and looked fierce. However our close encounter got disturbed by a herd of water buffaloes. The bird sensing trouble flew away. Dam those buffaloes. The last bird to come face to face was a beautiful Hornbill with bright yellow and black feathers. It flew into a tree nearby and we enjoyed our encounter. There was a fairly large hole in the tree and Prasad informed that a leopard had gone into that and apparently got stuck. He’d been there the whole day and everyone came to the park got lucky to see the fellow. Well, no such luck for us and I’m gonna find an elephant even if I have to spend the rest of the day going around. See the pictures while I check on them.

There he is

There he is

It was hilarious the way he ran

It was hilarious the way he ran

Malkoha waiting for a prey

Malkoha waiting for a prey

Cute one

Cute one

Got something in the mouth?

Got something in the mouth?

Out in the sun

Out in the sun

Wow

Wow

Prob the best of the whole lot

Prob the best of the whole lot

Before he left

Before he left

There in the distance

There in the distance

Another

Another

Inspecting the claws

Inspecting the claws

Before he took to the air

Before he took to the air

The other

The other

Closer

Closer

Another of my favorites

Another of my favorites

Trying to balance

Trying to balance

Time to take off

Time to take off

Hornbill

Hornbill

Closer look

Closer look

Thunpath Rena

I promised to show you some jumbos and here I got lucky with a Thunpath Rena (a small group of elephants that consists of two adult females and a tiny calf). As we were about to leave, I pleaded with the tracker to try a different route and as we were going halfway, there was the trio. I was over the moon and took a lot of pictures before noticing one of the adults, not the mother, was in a way pointing with her trunk at the front left leg. Then we saw it. A swollen wound full of puss as large as a wood apple was sticking out of her leg almost at the base. She kept pointing to it and we felt really sorry. There was another jeep and the driver said it could be a gunshot wound probably one of those rudimentary set-guns or in Sinhala “Kandan aka Bandina Thuwakku”.

Prasad immediately contacted the office and asked for a medical team to be sent. Meanwhile the baby elephant was playing around his mother making sure he was always closer to her. Prasad said it’d be better if he went and reported in person when the naughty calf started to have milk from the mother. Gosh, this was a sight very rare and we had to spend a few more minutes before leaving. We didn’t get a very clear look as he was behind the mother. We waited a little while even though feeling a bit guilty for doing so. Afterwards we went out of this wonderful park which gave me a lot of things in my inaugural visit. The matter of the wounded elephant was also another concern for our early departure. Now look at the pictures and tell me if they are any good.

Here they are

Here they are

Closer look

Closer look

Mum's going away

Mum’s going away

"Don't go mum, they might kidnap me"

“Don’t go mum, they might kidnap me”

"Oh yeah, keep him hidden"

“Oh yeah, keep him hidden”

See anything?

See anything?

The wound

The wound

Playful calf

Playful calf

Don't know what she's looking for

Don’t know what she’s looking for

Lovely

Lovely

Imitating the mother

Imitating the mother

Other one kept pointing to her wound

Other one kept pointing to her wound

"I'm hungry"

“I’m hungry”

There he goes

There he goes

Slowly

Slowly

Must've felt shy

Must’ve felt shy

Not really, but we left them for themselves to inform the officials about the other one’s wound

Not really, but we left them for themselves to inform the officials about the other one’s wound

We arrived at the office and Prasad went straight to the park warden to inform about the elephant and hopefully she’ll get the proper medical care and be better. We then bid farewell to Prasad and drove towards the dam. Two of my friends wanted to bathe in the reservoir so we got ourselves dropped at the public bathing place at the beginning of the dam when coming from Udawalawe Junction. They had a bath while we waited. There were many people enjoying a dip in the shallow waters.

Serene

Serene

Very shallow

Very shallow

Where my friends had a dip

Where my friends had a dip

Second day of Vesak, still no fishing

Second day of Vesak, still no fishing

Shady and cool

Shady and cool

Adventurous youths

Adventurous youths

Fitting pic to finish our adventure

Fitting pic to finish our adventure

Finally we took a bus to Embilipitiya in the hope of getting a seat but it turned out to be a 2-hour wait before we got the chance. Even then, it was a low-level bus and we reached Avissawella by 5.30pm. This was going to be bad and it was just that coz the high-level road was blocked by the people going to Colombo for Pandols, Lanterns, Dansal and many others. They walked all over the road and there were thousands of vehicles as well. It took us four and a half hours to get to Nugegoda. It felt like an eternity but finally we got home around 10.30pm.

Well, here ends another fairy tale of Sri and I hope you like it and I managed to keep you interested right throughout. Well, I’m saying bye for now and will meet you with another soon.

Take care!

Sri…

P.S. I’m no bird expert and the names of the birds in this report, I just found out on the internet but I might be wrong. So please correct if there are any mistakes. Apologies in advance for any errors.


Off to Mannar

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Year and Month June, 2014 (14th)
Number of Days 01-Part of two days trip to Mannar
Crew 04 – Myself, Wuminda, Dushan and Nirosh
Accommodation Four Tees Inn Thoddaveli, Mannar
Transport By Car
Activities Archeology, Photography and Just travelling
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Puttalama (පුත්තලම) -> Thabbowa Lake (තබ්බෝව වැව) -> Wilandagoda (විළදගොඩ) Hermitage – > Returned in same route to A12 (Puttalama-Anuradhapura-Trincomale road) -> Sinharagama (සිoහාරගම) -> Oyamaduwa (ඔයාමඩුව) -> Thanthirimale (තන්තිරිමලේ) -> Gajasinghapura (ගජසිoහපුර) -> Mannar
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Road conditions are excellent along E03 (Colombo to Katunayaka), A 03 (Katunayaka to Puttalama), A12 (Puttalama to Sinharagama). Road from Sinharagama to Thanthirimale and to A 14 road is also good after Dayata Kirula development.
  • Behave accordingly at Buddhist hermitage. Get permission from chief priest / priest if possible. Sometimes civil defense officers are there at the entrance. Tell them your purpose of visiting.
  • It takes whole one day if you completely cover Wilandagoda Buddhist Hermitage. It is nice to have a chat with the chief priest of Wilandagoda. He will tell more about the place.
  • Better visit Thanthirimale in evening or early morning to avoid excessive heat. It also takes 2-3 hours to watch everything there.
  • Oyamaduwa (ඔයාමඩුව) and Nawodagama (නවෝදාගම) archeology sites were renovated parallel to “Dayata Kirula” දැයට කිරුළ-2012.
  • Baratha Naga Lena (බරතනාග ලෙන) cave complex is a kind of monastery. Be silent and calm there. Don’t make any disturbances for meditation.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We have visited Mannar on June 15th as one day trip. On the way to Mannar we were able to visit at following places mainly having archaeology importance. Though it is bit expired story I thought to write it down as it would be important to anyone who travel to Mannar from Colombo along this way.
We have visited following places on our way:
1. Thabbowa Lake
2. Wilandagoda Buddhist Hermitage.
3. Thanthilimale Temple
4. Oyamaduwa archeology site.
5. Baratha Naga Lena Monastery.
6. Nawodagama Archeology site.

Thabbowa Lake and sanctuary behind it

Thabbowa Lake and sanctuary behind it

Some information

Some information

Though it is a bird paradise we didn't have enough time to enjoy it

Though it is a bird paradise we didn’t have enough time to enjoy it

Scenery

Scenery

Wilandagoda (විළදගොඩ) Buddhist Hermitage

Wilandagoda can be reached along Anuradhapura-Puttalama road. Get the left hand side turn at 17th mile post towards Pahala Puliyankulama (පහළ පුලියන්කුළම). After about 3-4km drive along the gravel road you can reach Wilandagoda Buddhist Hermitage. It is situated 4km from southern border of Wilpaththu National Park.

History goes back to Anuradhapura era-King Dutugamunu (දුටුගැමුණු) period. Prince Saliya-සාලිය (Only son of King Dutugamunu) was here with his low cast wife Asokamala (අසෝකමාලා). Neelamaha Yodaya-නීලමහා යෝදයා (one of the ten giants of King Dutugamunu) has found this while he was constructing a dam across Kala Oya (කලා ඔය). Then he got a promise from King Dutugamunu if he tells where prince Saliya hides he shouldn’t be bring without any harm.

King came to meet prince Saliya and offered him roasted paddy (Wilanda) and bee honey. He was asked to build Wihara’s Shrines, Dagoba, caves and religious monuments equal to roasted paddy he got.

This area got the name Wilandagoda like that.

There are number of caves (about 64), ruins of temples, ponds and few stone inscriptions to be seen here.

At the entrance

At the entrance

What you have to watch - Click Image to Enlarge

What you have to watch – Click Image to Enlarge

Ruins of “Tampiti Wehera” ටැම්පිටි වෙහෙර

Ruins of “Tampiti Wehera” ටැම්පිටි වෙහෙර

One of the ponds-“Dakunu Wewa” දකුණු වැව

One of the ponds-“Dakunu Wewa” දකුණු වැව

“Saliya Pokuna” සාලිය පොකුණ

“Saliya Pokuna” සාලිය පොකුණ

Another pond

Another pond

Another cave

Another cave

Pond with the cave

Pond with the cave

“Salawana Wiharaya”සාලවන විහාරය

“Salawana Wiharaya”සාලවන විහාරය

“Salawana Wiharaya” සාලවන විහාරය

“Salawana Wiharaya” සාලවන විහාරය

Stone inscriptions-This should be appreciated that they have protected it at least in this way

Stone inscriptions-This should be appreciated that they have protected it at least in this way

“Balumgala” බැලුම්ගල

“Balumgala” බැලුම්ගල

Another pond

Another pond

“Seema Malakaya” සීමා මාලකය

“Seema Malakaya” සීමා මාලකය

“Padanagaraya” පධානගරය

“Padanagaraya” පධානගරය

Ruins of another temple-“Madyama Wiharaya”මධයම විහාරය

Ruins of another temple-“Madyama Wiharaya”මධයම විහාරය

Main cave

Main cave

Thanthirimale Temple (තන්තිරිමලේ විහාරය)

This is one of the famous Buddhist monasteries in Sri Lanka. History of Thanthirimale goes back to Anuradhapura era. This temple was built by King Dewanampiyathissa (දේවානම්පියතිස්ස රජතුමා) as a one day visit place for Arahath Theri Sangamiththa (සoඝමිත්තා තෙරණිය) on her way to Anuradhapura.

Thanthirimale is a place of one of first eight shoots of Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi (ජය ශ්‍රී මහා බෝධිය) planted (First Sri Maha Bodhi plant).

During king Dewanampiyathissa period this area was called Thiwanka Bamunu Gama (තිවoක බමුණු ගම). Prince Saliya has been here with his low cast wife-Asokamala. At the end King Dutugamunu has forgiven them and prince was offered a necklace having a shape of a butterfly known as Thanthri. Then this area got the name of Thanthirimale.

There is a museum situated at temple premises but time didn’t permit us to visit there.

List of places you have to watch at Thanthirimale

List of places you have to watch at Thanthirimale

New constructions + sacred Bo tree

New constructions + sacred Bo tree

Lotus Pond-“Nelum Pokuna”-නෙළුම් පොකුණ

Lotus Pond-“Nelum Pokuna”-නෙළුම් පොකුණ

Ruins

Ruins

Evening view

Evening view

It is nice to spend the evening there

It is nice to spend the evening there

Might be an abounded lake

Might be an abounded lake

Sacred Bo tree.

Sacred Bo tree.

Pagoda

Pagoda

Image house-new constructions

Image house-new constructions

Samadhi Buddha statue. This was engraved at late Anuradhapura period. Height is 8 feet

Samadhi Buddha statue. This was engraved at late Anuradhapura period. Height is 8 feet

“Padanagaraya” පධානගරය

“Padanagaraya” පධානගරය

Monastery Library –“Poth Gula” පොත් ගුල

Monastery Library –“Poth Gula” පොත් ගුල

Cave with pre historical drawings

Cave with pre historical drawings

Cave paintings

Cave paintings

Cave paintings

Cave paintings

Nawodagama (නවෝදාගම) archeological site

Nawodagama archeological site is situated closer to the road. It consists of ruins of a small pagoda and “Tampiti Wehera” (ටැම්පිටි වෙහෙර).

Ruins of the pagoda

Ruins of the pagoda

“Tampiti Wehera”-ටැම්පිටි වෙහෙර

“Tampiti Wehera”-ටැම්පිටි වෙහෙර

Oyamaduwa Archeology Site

This archeology site was excavated in 2012 and can be seen ruins of a pagoda and a “Tampiti temple” (ටැම්පිටි වෙහෙර).

Oyamaduwa archeology site is situated about 500m away from main road.

Ruins of the Pagoda

Ruins of the Pagoda

Tampiti Wehera

Tampiti Wehera

Baratha Naga Lena (බරතනාග ලෙන)

This is a cave complex has seven caves with inscriptions and pre historical drawings. Baratha Naga Lena is situated about 1km away from the main road.

According to the history (mentioned at cave complex), this is the first temple made at Thanthirimale area. This was built during the period of Mahadatika Maha Naga මහා දාඨික මහා නාග රජතුමා king (A.C03-19).

Details of the cave complex -It is nice to see my school name is there

Details of the cave complex -It is nice to see my school name is there

Stone inscription at 6th cave

Stone inscription at 6th cave

Stone inscription at 3rd cave

Stone inscription at 3rd cave

This is the main cave

This is the main cave

Pre historical paintings

Pre historical paintings

Another one

Another one

Have a safe journey

Cycling to Nuwareliya: A Pedaling adventure

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Year and Month June, 2014
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew Two
Accommodation Rest house in Geli Oya and Nuwareliya
Transport 2 Bicycles
Activities Cycling
Weather Sunny, mind thunderstorm
Route Colombo -> Kandy (via A1 road) Nuwareliya -> Hatton (Via A7 road) -> Avisawella -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Carry less, take proper sun protction like sun screen, shades. Drink plenty of fluids.
Author Gene
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The planning for our cycling adventure began early May 2014 and when I suggested to my friend Dhanushka, he was totally in despite not knowing what we were about to experience. We knew it would be a hard ride especially ascending 6000 feet on bicycles. Preparation stage included servicing the bicycles and getting them ready for the long tour.

Dhanushka was from Nugegoda, Colombo and I was from Negombo. We decided to leave from Colombo instead me starting from Negombo and Dhanushka from Colombo. The weekend before our tour I rode 40km to Dhanushka’s place and kept it at his place.

On 19th June, I went to Dhanushka’s place around 5 am and after strapping all our bags we embarked on our 3 day adventure to explore the hill country on 2 mountain bicycles.

19th morning, 5.30am, Strapping our bags and getting ready for the ride

19th morning, 5.30am, Strapping our bags and getting ready for the ride

near the Parliament

near the Parliament

By day break we were near the Parliament and pushed on through Kaduwela, Malabe, Biyagama and Weliveriya before joining the A1, Kandy road.

We made sure to drink plenty of water every 20 minutes at least to be properly hydrated and consumed instant energy foods like bananas

Breakfast around 9am near Miriswatta. Sring hoppers, dhal curry and pol sambol

Breakfast around 9am near Miriswatta. Sring hoppers, dhal curry and pol sambol

It drizzled when we left and mountain bicycles without proper mudguard will leave you with mud bath

It drizzled when we left and mountain bicycles without proper mudguard will leave you with mud bath

Day 1: On A1 road, En-route to Kandy

Day 1: On A1 road, En-route to Kandy

Pedaling through the flat section was rather easy and we were able to maintain a good average speed of 15kmph. On the first day of the tour our target was to reach Kandy by dusk and to spend the night in a guest house. Good night sleep is a must after a long rides and usually its recommended to sleep for at least 8 hours.

Day 1: on A1 Kandy road. More king coconuts to reload all the lost minerals.

Day 1: on A1 Kandy road. More king coconuts to reload all the lost minerals.

When we started off it was gloomy , however as we passed Nittambuwa, clouds cleared and temperature started to rise. We had to apply a thick layer of sun screen and drink lot of water.

1st Incident: Day1 near Warakapola

1st Incident: Day1 near Warakapola

As we passed Nittambuwa roads started to incline and we had to engage low gears frequently. In some areas, as soon as we climb the inclined section we would quickly engage high gears, so as to go down the sloples very fast and climb the next inclined section without putting much effort. This had put lot of stress on the gear cables in my bicycle and the rear gear cable snapped while flipping the gear ratchet.

I had brought the toold kit and some spares but not extra gear cables. Pushing the bicycle was not an option since were losing lot of time. We had to improvise with the equipment we had and a did a quick fix with few cable ties I had in my tool kit.

1st Incident: Day 1 near Warakapola : quick fix with few cable ties

1st Incident: Day 1 near Warakapola : quick fix with few cable ties

Day 1 : At the local bicycle repair shop

Day 1 : At the local bicycle repair shop

This gentle man was so helpful and he replaced the gear cable and did few other adjustments

Day 1: back on the road after fixing the gear cable

Day 1: back on the road after fixing the gear cable

Day 1: Fruits: instant source of energy

Day 1: Fruits: instant source of energy

Day 1: Invading every fruit stall on the A1 road

Day 1: Invading every fruit stall on the A1 road

Day 1: Mountain roads, power nap. 72km done

Day 1: Mountain roads, power nap. 72km done

Day1 : Pushing the cycle became more of a habit

Day1 : Pushing the cycle became more of a habit

Day 1 : A1 road Kadugannawa

Day 1 : A1 road Kadugannawa

After passing Mawanella, we were exhausted and we were basically pushing our bicycles upto Kadugannawa Police station

Day1: A1 road, Kadugannawa, thunder shower, exhausted, temperature dropping

Day1: A1 road, Kadugannawa, thunder shower, exhausted, temperature dropping

Day 1: Long waited Kadugannawa rock tunnel

Day 1: Long waited Kadugannawa rock tunnel

With energy nearly sapped out, we stopped for only a moment infront of the Kadugannawa rock tunnel. After covering our bags with garbage bags we pushed on.

Day1: Entering Kadugannwa town. One of the towns in A1 road where its hard to find flat road

Day1: Entering Kadugannwa town. One of the towns in A1 road where its hard to find flat road

Since day 1 target was to reach Kandy and proceed up A5 road as much as possible, thunder showers pounded Kadugannawa onwards. After Kadugannawa Police station it was a downhill ride and we were relieved to free wheel after pushing the bicycle for nearly 10 km.

Day1: Clocked 100 km on A1 road.

Day1: Clocked 100 km on A1 road.

After passging Kadugannawa the only worry was to find lodging for the night. We were few km from Kandy city limits and we did not want to go to Kandy city to find a place for the night. From Peradeniya junction Kandy is about 8km and if we were to go to Kandy city we would have to ride another 8 km back to again join the A5 road next day.

Day1: Kandy city limits, taking turn and after passing the mighty Mahaweli river we officially made it to Kandy

Day1: Kandy city limits, taking turn and after passing the mighty Mahaweli river we officially made it to Kandy

Even though we have been to Kandy countless times seeing the Kandy sign board after pedaling for nearly 12 hours was such great delight. Our moral was up and we had this sense of achievement. The moment I pulled out my camera to take a photo, it started to pour again, with no shelter around that place I had to take a quick snap and ride back to the junction.

Since it would take at least an hour to ride 16 km we decided to by pass Kandy city and proceed up A5 road and look out for any lodges along A5 road between Peradeniya and Gampola.

Dhanushka queried about lodges  from the tuk tuk drivers and they said there were few between Peradeniya university and Gelioya. With thunder storm and no street lights it was hard to see the winding roads. Some vehicles whizzed pass us. It is usually hard to spot cyclists in such weather condition. We had 2 torches and a bicycle light. Even with all the lights lit up we knew the vehicles will not spot us unless they are close within 20 feet.

In our first attempt, shop owner directed us to a guest house what he considered was under 1km. We rode nearly 2.5km down winding and unpaved roads but couldnt find a single house with light. Since we were wasting time riding down the by-roads Dhanushka suggested we go further up the A5 road and look out for any road side guest houses instead of deviating from the main road.

As we approached Geli-Oya we thought we might not find any places until Gampola. After few kms Dhanushka spotted a sign board which said “Rooms”. When we inquired they told us that it was full and pointed us towards Gampola. We were frustrated and wondered whether we would spend the night on the road.

We had no choice but to pedal further despite the exhaustion. Again we saw similar sign board and we stopped to inquire. As we entered the guest house compound there was a power outage in that area and we were standing in pitch black. We tapped, knocked and screamed but no one was at that guest house. We tried the land phone number but no one answered. The door was unlocked so we knew some was there but wondered why they had kept the gate and door unlocked in a situation like that.

Later we tried the mobile number and a guy answered. He asked us to wait for few minutes and came across the street/ We told him that we were coming from Colombo and planned to go to Nuwareliya. He felt sorry us and gave a room for 1300 rupees, which was reasonable. After having a quick dinner in a restaurant next to the guest house we kept the alarm at 6 am and slept .

DAY 2

Waking up on day 2 was the hardest thing, whole body was aching and we had to pop some pain killers as soon as we woke up. After getting ready we started our day 2 of the adventure. We expected a flat road to start off but from the guest house we had to pedal uphill.

Day2: Breakfast near GeliOya

Day2: Breakfast near GeliOya

After 1km in we were super hungry and we had nothing but water in the morning. Food in a local restaurant was heavenly and we were ready to face whatever the mountain was going to throw at us on the second day.

In Gampola: Increasing tire pressure, less friction and less energy wasted.

In Gampola: Increasing tire pressure, less friction and less energy wasted.

In Gampola town, We have ascended about 1590 feet from sea level and got another 4000 feet to go

In Gampola town, We have ascended about 1590 feet from sea level and got another 4000 feet to go

Taking left turn and proceeding up A5 road. 53km to Nuwareliya

Taking left turn and proceeding up A5 road. 53km to Nuwareliya

After taking the left turn from Gampola, you have to make up your mind to face the one of the steepest and hardest mountain roads in Srilanka. There are few flat and downhill sections to keep you motivated but the uphills will zap all that if you are not positive about what you are about to do.

We are amateur cyclists and the place we come from there are few, rather no hilly areas. Anyone would agree that riding 100km on a flat road is easier that doing a 25km uphill ride.

Golden rules in cycling are:

  • Consume enough fluids to keep you hydrated and do it before you feel thirsty. If you wait to get thirsty, you are already too late
  • Keep steady and comfortable pace and intake instant energy foods which have readily available sugars, minerals etc.  You’ll feel fuzzy and light headed when you run out of glycogen and that is something you don’t want to happen.

Day2: Pussellawa, slight drizzle

Day2: Pussellawa, slight drizzle

Off the edge: Strong gust almost sent Dhanushka’s bicycle off the edge

Off the edge: Strong gust almost sent Dhanushka’s bicycle off the edge

During one of out break session strong gust nearly sent Dhanushka’s bicycle off the edge. The fall slightly damaged the rear gears and we had to adjust the jog wheel before pedaling again.

32 km done (on A5 road ) and 34km more to go to reach Nuwareliya. More hairpin bends

32 km done (on A5 road ) and 34km more to go to reach Nuwareliya. More hairpin bends

Stopping once in a while to admire the beauty

Stopping once in a while to admire the beauty

King coconut and glucose: Rejuvenated

King coconut and glucose: Rejuvenated

Ramboda falls….

Ramboda falls….

Some friendly K9s on the way

Some friendly K9s on the way

Close up view of the Ramboda falls.

Close up view of the Ramboda falls.

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After passing the Ramoba falls we were exicited to see the Ramboda road tunnel. 225m tunnel is  the logest road tunnel in Srilanka. We have gone through it numerous times on motorcycle and vehicles but cycling through it was some what special.

Ramboda road tunnel. 225m

Ramboda road tunnel. 225m

Inside the Ramboda tunnel

Inside the Ramboda tunnel

More hair pin bends after passing the Ramboda tunnel

More hair pin bends after passing the Ramboda tunnel

Enjoying the hike through the dense forest

Enjoying the hike through the dense forest

First sign of Nuwareliya but long way to go  before reaching the Nuwareliya town

First sign of Nuwareliya but long way to go before reaching the Nuwareliya town

Temperature starts to go down visibility reduces with the evening mist

Temperature starts to go down visibility reduces with the evening mist

Slight drizzle along with the chilly breeze. 13km more to reach Nuwareliya

Slight drizzle along with the chilly breeze. 13km more to reach Nuwareliya

Time was around 6pm and after riding for nearly 10 hours uphill even walking became an impossible task.

With poor visibility and rain we decided to call it a day and find a guest house for the night. After passing the 56th mile post we saw a guest house by the road. After negotiating the charged we quickly went to the nearest food joint, had a kottu and got back in the freezing weather.

Next day was the final day in our adventure. We had to ride back to Colombo no matter what. Waking up on the third day was not as bad the second day, we had terrible muscle ach, but since we knew we were about to conquer Nuwareliya we were all hyped up to leave as early as possible.

The gentleman in the guest house offered hot cup of coffee in that cold morning. He was shocked and amused to hear that we rode all the way from Colombo. He bid us goodbye and assured that after we pass the Nuwareliya sign board the mist will clear up.

DAY 3

Early morning at the guest house around 7am, our bicycles covered in dew

Early morning at the guest house around 7am, our bicycles covered in dew

Third day selfie

Third day selfie

We started off pedaling, later decided to slow the pace and walk in the steepest sections so as to not to get tired this early

We started off pedaling, later decided to slow the pace and walk in the steepest sections so as to not to get tired this early

Few power naps on the way

Few power naps on the way :-)

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Nearly after leaving the guest house we reached the Nuwareliya town. The official RDA sign board was few feet from this one so we pedaled another 100 feet before celebrating our victory.

Covered in mist and finally we did it

Covered in mist and finally we did it :-)

Epic selfie moment with Dhanushaka

Epic selfie moment with Dhanushaka

Must needed breakfast in the freezing cold

Must needed breakfast in the freezing cold

We saw a restaurant opposite the “Nuwareliya sign board” and we could not proceed further without having the breakfast

Warm and refreshing cup of coffee and friendly waiter

Warm and refreshing cup of coffee and friendly waiter

We were soon greeted by some customers in the restaurant and they all inquired about where we came from and where we were headed. After having a little chat we headed to the Nuwareliya town.

Weather cleared up as we approached the town and we stopped at the Nuwareliya Cargills to buy water bottles, pain killers and cough syrup.

Eight pills so far

Eight pills so far

Taking the A7 road to Avissawella

Taking the A7 road to Avissawella

We planned to take A7 towards Colombo via Hatton and Avissawella. Since it was going to be a downhill ride we were expecting a quick descend.

From Nuwareliya, Avissawella was 117km and Colombo was about 55km from there.

Part of the A7 road was still under construction and we had to go through mud and gravel

Part of the A7 road was still under construction and we had to go through mud and gravel

Part of the A7 road was still under construction and we had to go through mud and gravel. Since we were descending this was not an issue but we had to apply the brakes through out to keep control. The roads were slippery and taking the hands off the brakes even for a moment will take you downhill so fast that you will go out of control.

Riding on the edge

Riding on the edge

On and off we had to go close to the edge of the cliff to let the construction vehicles to pass. Some drivers would wave at us and we would wave back. Some would even slow down to let us creep through small gaps.

Around Nanu Oya. 196.6 km done and counting. Down the muddy trails

Around Nanu Oya. 196.6 km done and counting. Down the muddy trails :-)

Dhanushka’s bicycle dint have mudguards and it was quite fun to ride through mud. We swapped bicycles on and off and both of us were soaked in mud.

Nanu oya. New railway crossing under construction

Nanu oya. New railway crossing under construction

After passing Nanuoya we were back on tarmac.

After passing Nanuoya we were back on tarmac.

After passing Nanuoya we were back on tarmac. There were few inclines and we were enjoying the landscape while freewheeling.

Watawala with some beautiful landscapes

Watawala with some beautiful landscapes

Infront of the St. Claire’s falls in Talawakele

Infront of the St. Claire’s falls in Talawakele

Nature at its best, St. Claire’s falls Talawakele

Nature at its best, St. Claire’s falls Talawakele

Devon Falls, Talawakele

Devon Falls, Talawakele

Upper Kotmale reservoir

Upper Kotmale reservoir

Train cutting across tea plantation

Train cutting across tea plantation

Reached Hatton by 4pm.

Reached Hatton by 4pm.

Dhanushka’s bicycle had disc brakes and more effective than my ones.  My hands started to ache after pulling the lever hard for few kilometers at a stretch. Swapping bicycles became a routine every 20 minutes. When we got closed to Ginegathena, Dhanushka inspected the brake shoes and much to our surprise they were melted for the excess heat.

With more downhill distance to cover we could not afford to cover the downhill in slow speed. While passing the Ginigathhena town we managed to stop by a hardware shop and get 4 brake shoes for my bicycle.  We quickly changed all 4 worn out shoes and back on the road doing an average 20kmph.

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By 6.30pm we reached Kitulgala and we pushed on. We kept a target of 10 km before every stop and water break. At times we would cover  more than 15km without stopping. After reaching Karawanella junction where A7 road meets the Kegalle road we took a 15 min break.

From Karawanlla to Avissawella, we nearly road nonstop and we stopped at a Pharmacy in Avisawella to reload out pain killer supply.

After Avissawella we were very much exhausted but tried hard to keep the speed above 15kmph.  We took more than 5 hours to pedal from Avissawella to Colombo and by 1.30 am we reached Nugegoda.

And we had clocked 348.5km in 3 days

And we had clocked 348.5km in 3 days

The route covering 348.5km and reaching one of the highest towns in Srilanka, Nuwareliya

The route covering 348.5km and reaching one of the highest towns in Srilanka, Nuwareliya – Click Image to Enlarge

 

Out & About – Jaffna Peninsula Chapter 1…

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days 2
Crew I, Me & Myself
Accommodation Morgan’s Inn, Nallur
Transport By bicycle and on foot.
Activities Archaeology, Photography, Sightseeing etc…
Weather Mixed (Heavy Rains, gloomy on and off with bright sunshine as well)
Route Nugegoda->Ratmalana by Car.Ratmalana->Palaly by Helitours.Palaly->Jaffna by Van.In Jaffna by bike and on foot.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Helitours charges Rs. 8,750/- (one way) and Rs. 17,500/- for return.
  • Please read the notes carefully under each topic for further information.
  • Knowing Tamil is beneficial but you can get by with a few mandatory words.
  • People in Jaffna can be very shy so be careful when taking pictures and talking to them.
  • A bicycle is the best option to travel in Jaffna if you don’t have your own transport. Buses are there frequently but a bicycle will sort the matters easily.
  • There are many bicycle thieves in Jaffna now. So be careful if you ride in one especially when leaving it unattended. Even a lock won’t be sufficient as they are very good at breaking them with ease.
  • You must have plenty of drinking water. Bottled water is recommended as the water in Jaffna has that slightly brackish taste which I don’t like myself.
  • Don’t dump things here and there. Help protect the environment.
  • Special Thanks to the Heroic Soldiers of Sri Lanka Armed Forces who fought for the freedom of this country, freeing it from the clutches of the terrorism making our future safe while sacrificing their own. You’ll forever be remembered.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Dedication:

I dedicate this report for the Sri Lankan Armed Forces (Army, Air Force, Navy, STF and Police) for freeing this country from barbaric LTTE terrorists. We wouldn’t have been able to visit freely around this country if it wasn’t for your brave hearted souls. Thank you for everything you’ve done for us and our motherland. You’ll be remembered in our history just like the great kings Dutu Gemunu, Parakramabahu, etc. May those who lost their precious lives because of us attain Nibbana!”

Hello guys, how are things with you? Tell me where have you been and what are you up to? Do you believe in luck? Are you superstitious? Well what came upon me in the guise of work was a real piece of luck and I grabbed it not only with my arms, but also the legs. Ok, keeping aside the details and making a long story short, I got the chance to go work in Jaffna temporarily for two weeks and I readily agreed. It came while I was itching to get out to the golden peninsula after a flurry of trip reports appeared on Lakdasun. What better chance than this so off I went on a very gloomy and wet morning to the Colombo International Airport (Ratmalana), my first visit to the place. I was to fly from Colombo to Jaffna, another first, and I couldn’t have been happier. SLAF-operated Heli Tours do the domestic flights. It was raining nonstop and the sun had hidden himself behind charcoal grey clouds. There were quite a few people waiting at the departure lounge but compared to the BIA  Katunayake, this was a small time operation. However I can bet that Ratmalana was a good deal busier than Mattala.

Around 6am, we were checked in and led to a more spacious area where you could see the runway. A dark blue bird was perched on the rain slicked asphalt track while a half a dozen mechanics in raincoats did the final checkups. I felt the hair on my neck beginning to rise when I made out the make of the aircraft. It was an MA-60 turboprop (civilian version of a military aircraft) built in China and the worst part is one of the most accident-prone one in service. However I had faith in the SLAF and its personnel. An aircraft is as good as not only the country it’s made, but the people who are looking after it. Feeling less depressed we all just stared at the rain pelting on the runway making small puddles. At 7am, when we should have taken off, we were still chewing our nails and the weather didn’t seem to give in. Most of the passengers started to wonder if the flight would get cancelled but despite my misgivings about the aircraft, I didn’t want it to happen.

We finally took off one hour late and pierced the thick cloud cover which hung over us. The constant humming of the twin turbo engines made the in-flight talk almost impossible and everyone looked sullenly out of the grimy windows. We were to fly through China Bay, Trinco and it takes usually 45 mins to get there. The aircraft rose to 10,000ft and leveled and we could still saw thick clouds below us obscuring our view. Unfortunately I didn’t get a window seat and had to keep peeping past a sleeping lady to get a view. Guess what, the funny thing is you are weighed just before getting onboard and apparently your seat is decided after that. Probably they balance the weight across the aircraft as it is not a sophisticated and dedicatedly built passenger aircraft such as Boeing or Airbus. We then got the in-flight meal, rather snack of various things such as Cashew Nuts, Apple Juice (either that or Orange Juice), Jelly Crystals, Bran Crackers and an Energy Bar. Not too bad if you’re not that hungry but I was so ravenous it simply felt like an aspirin tablet fallen into the Kelani River.

After about half hour we cleared the thick clouds and entered a clear blue sky with plenty of sun. As we were about to land at China Bay, the plane circled around the port giving an amazing bird’s eye view of the harbour. There were many small fishing craft scattered across the water and a couple of larger ships were anchored off the main pier. The half circular shape of the bay was clearly visible but you simply can’t get a decent picture through the twin layered windows which are grimy. We then waited until the most of the people disembarked and after about 20 mins were airborne once again. Now that the view was clear, we could see the endless land mass mainly paddy fields and tanks. The roads ran all around like a hastily woven spider web. The A9 looked as straight as a foot ruler. The color of the earth changed from its usual yellow brown to brick red signaling we were above the Jaffna peninsula. I actually took a series of videos from air when flying back from Palaly to Ratmalana via China Bay. Check them out.

They had started ploughing and the fields looked like gigantic cakes cut into equal size pieces.  Finally we arrived at Palaly and waited for the signal to get down. There were only about 10 people in the plane and when I went out to the exit, the second to leave, I got the shock of my life. I walked along the center isle of the aircraft and bid farewell to the airhostess and just poked my head out of the door and oh my goodness! Crack-crack-crack. There was this 100-foot long red carpet laid very straight right from the foot of the steps, elite commando soldiers stood either side in their signature maroon berets and carrying MP5 submachine guns. Half a dozen cameramen were scattered covering every angle. Couple of well-dressed civilians was waiting anxiously with garlands decorated with purple orchids. Another couple of high ranking army and air force officials wearing their full military suit decorated at the breast with many medals and stars on their shoulders stood at attention. At the end of the red carpet were half a dozen vehicles comprising of two luxurious white Toyota Prado Land Cruisers and four escorts open backed Land Rovers with more commandos. It took all of five seconds maximum to take in this VIP welcome standing just out of the door on top of the stairs. I must have looked ghastly white for one of the air force personnel came and motioned to get down and led me and my colleague who was already waiting at the foot of the stairs to the side.

Oh I forgot to tell you that there was a government minister in the plane with us. So this welcome was not for me but for him. Apparently the crack-crack sound was the half a dozen cameras going in unison. They had probably anticipated that it was the minister coming through the door. After he and his entourage had been escorted away we took on to the red carpet and followed to the arrival lounge until our shuttle arrived. Both my colleague and I had a very good laugh at the expense of the minister. Welcome to Jaffna! Very dramatic chain of events those were and apologies if I bored you with that. Now we are finally here, let’s get started and explore what to expect in this colorful city.

It was a wet and gloomy morning

It was a wet and gloomy morning

Being prepared

Being prepared

One of the many MI-17s SLAF has

One of the many MI-17s SLAF has

Y-12 aircraft

Y-12 aircraft

Getting on board

Getting on board

The snack which disappeared in no time

The snack which disappeared in no time

Minister's crew getting down

Minister’s crew getting down

Sun and shine in Palaly

Sun and shine in Palaly

There our red carpet

There our red carpet

Long and nice

Long and nice

An-32 taking off

An-32 taking off

Ok, I’ve decided to present you a trip report which could guide you what to see in and around the heart of Jaffna town. I’m sure it’ll help plan your next trip if you haven’t been to Jaffna before or if your journey is a short one. You can probably cover the whole lot in a day but I spent two days going over them. Remember if you have a bicycle, traveling around will be very easy. However, make sure you can lock it and you are not far away from it for long. Ideally, you have to leave it in somebody’s care and walk around. There are many bicycle thieves in Jaffna now and breaking a lock is like a dry stick for them.

I guess Jaffna is one of the towns not so much notorious for traffic jams as most of the population use bicycles to travel. Unfortunately the widened roads and the increase in motor vehicles have increased the number of accidents as well. Reason being they haven’t yet come to terms with the fact that the number of vehicles have quadrupled over the last couple of years. Ok, let’s see what the attractions are:

Tour Highlights:

  1. Sri Naga Viharaya.
  2. Railway Station, Jaffna.
  3. Nallur Kovil.
  4. Rajamanthree Palace.
  5. Sankilian Thoppu aka Fort (Entrance & the Foundation of a Building).
  6. Yamuna Pond.
  7. Public Library of Jaffna & The Tower.
  8. Clock Tower.
  9. Archaeological Museum.
  10. Dutch Fort, Jaffna.
  11. Gurunagar Jetty & Fishery Harbour.
  12. Sunset at Nagadeepa Road Causeway.
  13. Everyday Jaffna.
  14. Authentic Jaffna Cuisine & Eating Places.

I’d been to Jaffna before two times, in 2011 & 2013. Now in 2015, it looks like I go there every two years but everytime I’ve improved both in terms of the length of the stay and the things I saw. As the name suggests, this is just one chapter of my tours around Jaffna and you will see the rest in the future. Here we go.

Sri Naga Viharaya

Naga Vihara Buddhist Temple is probably one of the most historic places in the Jaffna Peninsula despite having so little space for the temple premises. I guess like all the other archeological sites in the peninsula, this too had faced the same issue of losing its property to the invading people who don’t give a toss about historical value of places like these. This is located on Stanley Road and Point Pedro Buses go on the same road.

Fortunately, the chief monk is doing a good job and there’s even a place for the pilgrims to stay called “Naga Vihara Vishshrama Shalawa”. It’s located right in front of the temple. You can check the accommodation options by calling this number, 021-2222014.

Jaffna railway station is about a couple of hundred meters from here and the KKS railway runs about 50m from here. Central Bus Stand is also located very close to the temple about 500m from it. This is a very tranquil place in the middle of a busy town. The stupa looked beautiful and the rustling leaves of the Bo tree added to the picture. You will feel completely at ease under the shade of the Bo tree. Well, come let’s see the pictures.

Entrance

Entrance

Outer wall

Outer wall

In I went

In I went

It's being rebuilt

It’s being rebuilt

Main courtyard

Main courtyard

Bo tree

Bo tree

Buddha statue

Buddha statue

Another image house

Another image house

Plenty of history

Plenty of history

It was dark and gloomy then

It was dark and gloomy then

Majestic

Majestic

Another of the majestic stupa

Another of the majestic stupa

Main image house

Main image house

I went in

I went in

Here is the main statue

Here is the main statue

Looks very old

Looks very old

Probably found ages ago but no way to check

Probably found ages ago but no way to check

Another of those things

Another of those things

Paintings

Paintings

Some more

Some more

Time to go

Time to go

There is the Vishrama Shalawa

There is the Vishrama Shalawa

Jaffna Railway Station

My next stop was the Jaffna station which had been out of operation for nearly two decades. I walked into the station on a gloomy morning around 6.30am. The station was devoid of any activity. There were two trains parked, one S11 Indian Power Unit and the other is an M10, another Indian engine copied from the venerable Canadian engines produced in the 1950s.

It still looked new and good looking. I walked around taking pictures. Here they are:

From Stanley Road

From Stanley Road

Going in

Going in

Not a soul in sight

Not a soul in sight

Just 3m above sea level

Just 3m above sea level

Indian copy of the veteran Canadian engines

Indian copy of the veteran Canadian engines

One of those modern power sets

One of those modern power sets

Portrait

Portrait

Jaffna station

Jaffna station

Isolated platform

Isolated platform

Centre platform joined by an underground tunnel, note the time

Centre platform joined by an underground tunnel, note the time

Here it is

Here it is

Going to the main platform

Going to the main platform

Nobody bothered to come in this early but me

Nobody bothered to come in this early but me

Ticket counters empty

Ticket counters empty

Time table

Time table

Ticket prices

Ticket prices

Entrance to the platforms

Entrance to the platforms

Finally some human touch

Finally some human touch

First floor

First floor

Logo

Logo

Looking down

Looking down

From the front

From the front

Note these (Went to all but the Church)

Note these (Went to all but the Church)

Good bye

Good bye

Nallur Kovil

The next stop was the famous Nallur Murugan Kovil. It’s dedicated to the God Murugan aka Katharagama. I’m going to show you the pictures I took in the evening and the following morning. This located in Nallur along Point Pedro Road. Popular Rio Ice Cream shop is also nearby but we’ll come to that later in the report. Now, enjoy the pictures.

Nallur Kovil

Nallur Kovil

From the front and fortunate not to have anyone in sight

From the front and fortunate not to have anyone in sight

Let's go in

Let’s go in

The top

The top

Roof

Roof

Interior but can't go in with the camera

Interior but can’t go in with the camera

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

One of the statues either side the entrance

One of the statues either side the entrance

Colorful pillars

Colorful pillars

Another one being built

Another one being built

The main pillar

The main pillar

Colorful

Colorful

From the front

From the front

Closer look

Closer look

The top

The top

Farewell

Farewell

Rajamanthree Palace

Apparently, Minister Rajamanthree had been one of King Sangili’s ministers and today we can see his palace located on Point Pedro Road about 1km from the Nallur Kovil. It’s been built using coral rocks and been a partial two storied house. Even today the well-used by the household can be seen and is still in use probably by the nearby villagers.

The legend is that the wife of Rajamanthree was so beautiful and he didn’t want anyone to see her. So he’d made a tunnel from the palace to the nearby Yamuna Pond so that she could go unseen by anyone for bathing. Right, let’s see what it looks like even though you must have seen this before.

Here we are

Here we are

Upper section

Upper section

Top most

Top most

Side view, next door is a lorry park

Side view, next door is a lorry park

Another angle

Another angle

From the side

From the side

Two story

Two story

Look at the bricks

Look at the bricks

Towards the back

Towards the back

Alledged tunnel that runs to the Yamuna Pond

Alledged tunnel that runs to the Yamuna Pond

Back

Back

Very much intact

Very much intact

Different windows

Different windows

The well to the right

The well to the right

Still in use

Still in use

Where they used it as a tank

Where they used it as a tank

Coral like bricks

Coral like bricks

Inside

Inside

Upper floor

Upper floor

Upper floor

Upper floor

Wooden carvings

Wooden carvings

Door frame and the second story is visible

Door frame and the second story is visible

Looking out through the main door

Looking out through the main door

Main entrance to the interior

Main entrance to the interior

Wooden pillars still standing

Wooden pillars still standing

Main passage

Main passage

This is right above the door frame

This is right above the door frame

Look at those pillars close together

Look at those pillars close together

Time to go

Time to go

My friends and guides

My friends and guides

Sankilian Thoppu aka Fort

Very close to the Rajamanthree Palace is the Sankilian Thoppu. Unfortunately only the entrance to it and a foundation of a building remain now. The entrance gate is covered with a roof but the lands of the fort is gone save for the tiny piece of land behind the entrance with the remains of a building. It’s unlikely the archeological department will be able to uncover anything further as everything else is private property now and it’s gonna be a big issue if they ever do.

There’s also a statue of King Sankilian very close to the entrance on Point Pedro Road. Ok, here are the photos and hopefully you’ll see something you haven’t seen before.

Right by the main road

Right by the main road

Portrait

Portrait

The top

The top

See the wall behind?

See the wall behind?

The top, good they've built a roof

The top, good they’ve built a roof

Side view

Side view

Crumbling down

Crumbling down

This from behind, Point Pedro road is the one you see

This from behind, Point Pedro road is the one you see

The top from behind

The top from behind

The foundation of what believed to be a part of the fort

The foundation of what believed to be a part of the fort

A kovil closer to it

A kovil closer to it

The pond of it

The pond of it

Yamuna Pond

About a couple of hundred meters from the Sankilian Thoppu is the Yamuna Pond and I told you the most popular legend related to that before. The water is used by the nearby houses for various purposes but not for drinking. Ok, enjoy the pictures.

Here we are

Here we are

There's a structure in the middle, probably a changing room

There’s a structure in the middle, probably a changing room

Wall of the pond and bordering house

Wall of the pond and bordering house

Not good for drinking

Not good for drinking

Look at the garbage, the steps to the pond

Look at the garbage, the steps to the pond

Another side

Another side

King Sankilian Statue closer to the Sankilian Thoppu by the road

King Sankilian Statue closer to the Sankilian Thoppu by the road

Closer

Closer

The front

The front

Jaffna Library & the Tower

Jaffna library must be one of mostly talked about libraries in the world. After the burning, now it’s been restored back to its former glory. The building is a hallmark of Jaffna. Even though you can take pictures of the library from the outside the gate is possible, non-members can’t go inside. However, they allow visitors into the library for a tour, details as follows:

“Library Visiting Hours for Tourists & Non-members: 4.30pm-6.00pm (Closed on Monday and Public Holidays)

Entrance Free is Rs. 10/-.

No photography allowed inside.”

However, thanks to my contacts, I managed to get a few pictures of the interior and going to share them with you. This is a great piece of architecture and I simply loved the whole design. Just out of curiosity, I asked one of the librarians how many books were there but she or her colleagues had no idea. Then one of the other ladies said that there are more than 300,000 books in the library.

At one corner of the library is a tower but I simply couldn’t get the details as to why it was built and when but check out the pictures all the same. One incident was that there was this boy who was sound asleep in one of the study cubicles and I couldn’t help taking a picture of him. He didn’t make a move and must’ve been dead tired to have fallen asleep like that.

View from the road

View from the road

Closed gate

Closed gate

Important (Click image to enlarge)

Important (Click image to enlarge)

Oh ho

Oh ho

Amazing isn't it?

Amazing isn’t it?

Center part

Center part

God Saraswathi Statue in front

God Saraswathi Statue in front

Entering

Entering

History

History

Thiruvalluvar

Thiruvalluvar

Here is a closer look

Here is a closer look

Long isles full of leather bound books

Long isles full of leather bound books

Check in and out counter

Check in and out counter

Books availability based on subjects

Books availability based on subjects

The ceiling

The ceiling

Old chest of drawers

Old chest of drawers

Loads of books

Loads of books

Corridor towards the rear

Corridor towards the rear

This is from the rear entrance

This is from the rear entrance

Study section

Study section

Separate cubicles

Separate cubicles

Excellent for some quiet studying

Excellent for some quiet studying

Well, not for him. It's nice and cozy for an afternoon nap

Well, not for him. It’s nice and cozy for an afternoon nap

Newspaper area

Newspaper area

Going to the next story

Going to the next story

First story

First story

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Balcony

Balcony

Looking down

Looking down

Left side of the building

Left side of the building

Upper interior

Upper interior

Time to go

Time to go

They are going home

They are going home

The detailed map of Jaffna town

The detailed map of Jaffna town

See you!

See you!

The pillar I told you about

The pillar I told you about

Full height

Full height

The top

The top

Clock Tower

The clock tower is near the police station junction and about 100m from the library. The hospital is also about 100m away but to the other side. This is a three-way junction and they have placed statues of three kings, namely Ellalan, Pararajasekaran and Pandaravanniyan.

The sight of the tower is something you must enjoy. It must be closer to 100ft in height and one of the major landmarks. Here are the pictures.

One of those ponds in the heart of the town

One of those ponds in the heart of the town

There my next attraction

There my next attraction

There it is looking as tall as anything

There it is looking as tall as anything

Making a big impression

Making a big impression

The base, wish we could go in and see

The base, wish we could go in and see

The top

The top

Time is working beautifully unlike most clock towers which show four different times on four sides

Time is working beautifully unlike most clock towers which show four different times on four sides

Can we go up there?

Can we go up there?

The three kings I told you about

The three kings I told you about

The second

The second

The third

The third

Time to go

Time to go

This took on another day when the sky was nice and clear

This took on another day when the sky was nice and clear

Wow

Wow

Archaeological Museum

The museum is a must visit and located within the Navalar Cultural Hall premises. You can reach this very easily by taking the Point Pedro Road and you will find a right turn into the Navalar Road after passing the Naga Viharaya for about 500m. Another hundred or so along Navalar Road is the museum. Nallur Kovil is another 400-500m from the museum.

Museum closed on Tuesday and Poya Day.

Entrance is free of charge.

Photography inside is allowed.

Opening Hours: 08.00am-04.45pm.

Here I am

Here I am

Whale skeleton

Whale skeleton

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Another angle

Another angle

Two interesting things

Two interesting things

Here's the part of the wall

Here’s the part of the wall

And the Dutch artillery

And the Dutch artillery

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Can you read that?

Can you read that?

Another

Another

Clearer

Clearer

Just look at that

Just look at that

Poor mother

Poor mother

Let's go in

Let’s go in

Entrance

Entrance

Important details

Important details

First of many

First of many

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Gaja Luxmi (remember Galpotha at Polonnaruwa?)

Gaja Luxmi (remember Galpotha at Polonnaruwa?)

Wooden carvings

Wooden carvings

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Some more

Some more

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

More wooden carvings

More wooden carvings

Closer

Closer

Wooden pillars

Wooden pillars

Interior

Interior

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Old umbrella stand

Old umbrella stand

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Another view of the interior

Another view of the interior

Tamil inscription

Tamil inscription

Inner courtyard

Inner courtyard

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Queen Victoria

Queen Victoria

Symbol of the King

Symbol of the King

Click image to enlarge (Info on Fort Hammenhiel)

Click image to enlarge (Info on Fort Hammenhiel)

Map of Fort Hammenhiel

Map of Fort Hammenhiel

Ancient swords

Ancient swords

And knives

And knives

Very old

Very old

Closer look

Closer look

A casket where relics were kept

A casket where relics were kept

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Another wooden Sesath

Another wooden Sesath

Lion's creation of rock

Lion’s creation of rock

Another water container

Another water container

Feet of Bodhisattva

Feet of Bodhisattva

Pedestal of a Buddha Statue

Pedestal of a Buddha Statue

Another Buddha Statue found at Kadurugoda

Another Buddha Statue found at Kadurugoda

Closer look

Closer look

Buddha's feet

Buddha’s feet

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Some more wood carvings

Some more wood carvings

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Another Buddha Statue

Another Buddha Statue

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Half broken Buddha Statue

Half broken Buddha Statue

Another big Buddha Statue

Another big Buddha Statue

See the interior with Buddha Statues

See the interior with Buddha Statues

Bundy full and fast asleep

Bundy full and fast asleep

Dutch Fort

This is probably the most popular tourist attraction in the Jaffna town by the tourists. People seem to like to go for a walk along the high walls in the evening. Parallel to the fort wall along the edge of the lagoon is a newly built walking path. Unfortunately the people who use it don’t know the real meaning of keeping it clean. You will find so much of garbage scattered around and thrown in the lagoon.

Let’s get back to the fort. There had been a lot of renovation done recently and thanks to that the fort looks in decent condition. I walked all over taking pictures and there’s one misgiving about the whole project which is the way they have laid the cables. They are all over the place going from every directions and making it probably not safe for the visitors as well.

The renovation is still undergoing and probably things will improve when they are completed if they ever do. Please don’t throw garbage into the rooms, wells and other corners in the fort. We have to protect these places. Ok, let’s go and see what the new look is like.

This is from the place where they park the long distance buses

This is from the place where they park the long distance buses

Long walls with the channel

Long walls with the channel

Rains have increased the water levels

Rains have increased the water levels

I was walking out of the fort along another wall

I was walking out of the fort along another wall

Main fort, looks impregnable

Main fort, looks impregnable

This was cleaned and opened recently

This was cleaned and opened recently

Outer boundary of the fort and one of those tunnels found

Outer boundary of the fort and one of those tunnels found

Inside

Inside

Leads to another

Leads to another

Keeps going along it

Keeps going along it

Almost at the edge

Almost at the edge

Cacti

Cacti

Came out to the road

Came out to the road

Walking along to the front

Walking along to the front

The channel

The channel

Distant view

Distant view

No vehicles

No vehicles

In I went

In I went

Curving path as a security measure

Curving path as a security measure

Main entrance into the fort

Main entrance into the fort

High walls

High walls

Right shall we go in or you wanna see other sides?

Right shall we go in or you wanna see other sides?

So, here the main section of the fort

So, here the main section of the fort

One of those security tunnels

One of those security tunnels

Walked through it

Walked through it

Out I came

Out I came

Let's go up and see

Let’s go up and see

Here I go

Here I go

The main entrance to the inner part

The main entrance to the inner part

Shall we go?

Shall we go?

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Two of those peeping areas of the guards

Two of those peeping areas of the guards

I'm walking towards it

I’m walking towards it

Some of the holes in the walls, must've been stores

Some of the holes in the walls, must’ve been stores

Closer look at one of them

Closer look at one of them

The workers going to hand their equipment after a hard day's work

The workers going to hand their equipment after a hard day’s work

See the guard tower to the left

See the guard tower to the left

Here it is

Here it is

Inside, and let's see what the guard must've seen those three holes

Inside, and let’s see what the guard must’ve seen those three holes

This is from the right hand side hole

This is from the right hand side hole

Center

Center

From the left

From the left

Inner chamber where there had been a huge map drawn all along

Inner chamber where there had been a huge map drawn all along

One of the two rooms inside

One of the two rooms inside

Nothing but empty

Nothing but empty

The second one

The second one

Things about archaeologically important places in the North

Things about archaeologically important places in the North

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Map of the Jaffna Fort

Map of the Jaffna Fort

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

From the inner courtyard looking back

From the inner courtyard looking back

Open terrain surrounded by the high walls

Open terrain surrounded by the high walls

The chambers along those walls

The chambers along those walls

Another

Another

Closer look

Closer look

The steps to the upper area is to the right

The steps to the upper area is to the right

One of the bigger chambers

One of the bigger chambers

Let's go in and see

Let’s go in and see

Broken down

Broken down

Huge area

Huge area

Ready to go upstairs

Ready to go upstairs

View to the right

View to the right

And to the left

And to the left

Library in the distance towering above the city

Library in the distance towering above the city

The Gallows

The Gallows

Closer look

Closer look

Under renovation

Under renovation

The roof

The roof

Zoomed in Library

Zoomed in Library

Well cut lawn

Well cut lawn

Drainage system

Drainage system

Watch points

Watch points

Below

Below

Interior

Interior

Open areas

Open areas

Long corridors

Long corridors

The road and outer wall

The road and outer wall

Here I'm at the edge of a watch place

Here I’m at the edge of a watch place

Enjoying a group tour

Enjoying a group tour

Other side of the fort

Other side of the fort

The buildings of the town beyond

The buildings of the town beyond

The rocks used to renovate the fort

The rocks used to renovate the fort

Another chamber

Another chamber

This leads to the outside where you saw when I was walking along the road

This leads to the outside where you saw when I was walking along the road

Being used for some work

Being used for some work

Going up to the top once again looking for the other side

Going up to the top once again looking for the other side

Here I go

Here I go

Other end

Other end

Similar to the other side but not as big

Similar to the other side but not as big

Another guard place

Another guard place

Time to say bye

Time to say bye

Gurunagar Jetty & Fishery Harbour

I took to the road and rode along parallel to the lagoon in the evening. It’d been raining heavily making it nearly impossible to go out in the evening but I got the break I was waiting for. So riding towards the Gurunagar jetty was a pleasure. The sun had started his descend and there was very little activity at the fishing harbour.

The boats in various sizes were parked in the jetty and the fishermen were working in some of them, mending the equipment and fishing nets. It’d have been so busy in the morning but unfortunately I couldn’t make the time. However I got very lucky with one of those evening fish market at Anaikoddai along Karainagar road but you will have to wait for those pictures. Just see if these are any good.

Oh wow

Oh wow

Taking a break

Taking a break

Different sized boats

Different sized boats

Gurunagar Jetty full of craft

Gurunagar Jetty full of craft

The sun was setting fast

The sun was setting fast

Ooops

Ooops

Very colorful

Very colorful

Must hurry otherwise I'm gonna miss the sunset

Must hurry otherwise I’m gonna miss the sunset

Sunset at Nagadeepa Road Causeway.

Afterwards I cycled along the road back towards the causeway hoping for a sunset. Even though Jaffna is very famous for its sunrises and sets, I got just one opportunity out of all the time my stay. The water levels of the lagoon had gone up due to the adverse weather which brought so much of rains.

The causeway stretch is being repaired and the road to Kayts is about 75% complete. The typical fishing net cages were all over the lagoon which is used to catch the prawns and fish. Many water birds and eagles mainly chocolate brown and white Brahminy Kites were perched on the sticks hoping for an easy catch.

The water glistened in the evening sunlight. Slowly the sun changed the colors of the sky, turning them into orange, pink and yellow then turning them into purple and crimson as he was almost kissing the infinity. This was one of the moments I was waiting for and didn’t miss out. Well, I’ll let you decide how good they are before we move into the more interesting things.

Finally after days of waiting

Finally after days of waiting

I couldn't get enough of this

I couldn’t get enough of this

Colors

Colors

Oh hello!

Oh hello!

Found anything?

Found anything?

Sure did

Sure did

On and on

On and on

Those fishing cages added to the picture

Those fishing cages added to the picture

Just look at this

Just look at this

Kept shooting on

Kept shooting on

Golden cage

Golden cage

Nothing but gold

Nothing but gold

Going deeper into the ocean

Going deeper into the ocean

Is that the end?

Is that the end?

Burning at the edge

Burning at the edge

How about this?

How about this?

Well, you can relax now

Well, you can relax now

Everyday Jaffna

Well, as I was walking and riding around I saw the typical Jaffna lifestyle but unfortunately most of them I couldn’t capture them on my lenses but riding bicycles in Jaffna is a very interesting thing.

Usually they ride in groups blocking the whole road and go in their own speed. They’re not yet used to the 20ft long carpet roads, pedestrian crossings or worse for traffic lights. There is just one traffic lights system in place in the town. The cyclists will ride to the traffic lights and if it’s red, they’ll get down and push it to the other side while cops look at them helplessly. Another fascinating thing is how they tag along with motorbikes and tuk-tuks. One cyclist will hold the hand of the motorbike rider, usually the passenger in the back seat, and will go at the speed of the motorbike without having to pedal. Same way with the tuk-tuks. They would hold onto a side of the tuk and go at their speed. Very scary thing and one of the motorbikes even offered to take me after seeing how much I was struggling against a headwind but I couldn’t do that stunt so managed to cycle out of it.

It’s not all; the cyclists hardly ever check either side of the road before entering into it either from their homes or from a side road. I heard a foreigner exclaimed that people in Jaffna have a death wish everytime they take to the roads. He said he’s surprised to see most of the population still alive the way they ride and drive. So if you’re driving in Jaffna, stick to the center of the road and keep a close eye to the summersaulting bicycles and tuk-tuks. If you’re a cyclist, just be careful how you ride and think twice before turning into another road.

The other fascinating thing is the number of kovils in the peninsula. There must be thousands of them scattered all around. You can hardly go for a km before coming across at least a couple of them. However there are only a handful of so-called famous ones are there such as Nallur. You will see some of the ordinary ones here but the prominent ones will have to wait.

There are many crows and stray dogs in Jaffna probably many times more than the Colombo. The number of stray dogs keeps going up as there doesn’t seem to be anything to control their growth. That is a great menace to the public in Jaffna. Well you will also come across many water birds and hawks and eagles. There is a whole family residing near the station. The funniest thing is the bill boards with comical spellings and ways of writing. I know one should never laugh at others’ mistakes but these are too hilarious and you won’t be able to stifle a laugh.

Well there’s so much more to say but will save them for later. Now enjoy the pictures.

Brahminy Kite Juvenile

Brahminy Kite Juvenile

Her husband

Her husband

On the lookout for others

On the lookout for others

Look at her pose

Look at her pose

Typical Jaffna house

Typical Jaffna house

Kovil near Navalar Road

Kovil near Navalar Road

Typical sight but not the famous Karuthakolomban

Typical sight but not the famous Karuthakolomban

Another pond and kovil on Rakka Road

Another pond and kovil on Rakka Road

Hiding from me

Hiding from me

Same pond

Same pond

Nuga seeds, very popular among birds and squirrels

Nuga seeds, very popular among birds and squirrels

Another kind

Another kind

Fighting crows on Stanley Road

Fighting crows on Stanley Road

Fierce battle

Fierce battle

Very tasty when ripe, you call it Nongu or Mongu

Very tasty when ripe, you call it Nongu or Mongu

One more kovil with a courtyard

One more kovil with a courtyard

Play time

Play time

The most popular mode of transport in Jaffna

The most popular mode of transport in Jaffna

Palmyra plant from underneath

Palmyra plant from underneath

Patient hunter

Patient hunter

Just look at that, near Nallur Kovil

Just look at that, near Nallur Kovil

Jaffna Cuisine & Eating Holes

Most of my FB friends have seen the authentic Jaffna dishes but I’ll share them for you all the same coz I have very few (compared to most of my other friends) very few friends on FB. Before that, you would like to see where one needs to go for a decent meal. I’ve a few places which are listed below. I’ve been to all of them and can recommend them.

  • Green Grass on Hospital Road near the Station – The best of them and probably the most expensive but not so much. Has rooms and worth a visit.
  • Cosy near the Naga Viharaya – Delicious food and slightly expensive but worth the price.
  • Gnanam on the Clock Tower Road closer to the Central Bus Stand – Moderate prices and has rooms as well.
  • US Hotel in Chundikkuli – Serves superb seafood rice. Prices moderate.
  • Mangos near Nallur Kovil (Vegetarian) – Reasonable and very tasty.
  • Akshathai in front of Naga Viharaya (Vegetarian) – Good for breakfast and reasonable prices.
  • Malayan Café in the Grand Bazaar (Vegetarian) – Excellent for typical Thosai and Wadei. The best Saambaru Curry I’ve ever had.
  • Rio Ice Cream near Nallur – The most popular place in whole of Jaffna. They are very well known for the signature ice cream in the peninsula. Mango Sundae is probably the best and it simply is pampering.

Note that there are other ice cream shops as well but not as popular as Rio though. One such place is Lingans near Rio.

Additionally, Fort Hammenhiel Restaurant in Karainagar and Thal Sevana in KKS are among the best if you can bother to go that way. There will be pictures but not in this report.

Ok, now let’s talk about the typical Jaffna styled curries. There is the mouth-watering crab curry, very hot and spicy. Then there’s cuttlefish, prawns and many different fish curries. There are many different kinds of rice as well especially the seafood rice. There are typical Jaffna foods such as Thosai, Wadei, Uththapam, Puri, Masala Dosei, Parota, etc. Not only that, there is some delicious sandwiches as well. Here are the pictures but don’t blame me for tempting you.

Breakfast

Poori with Sambol and Dhal at Thelippale

Poori with Sambol and Dhal at Thelippale

Typical Thosai and Ulundu Wadei at Akshathai

Typical Thosai and Ulundu Wadei at Akshathai

Pittu with the trimmings at Akshathai

Pittu with the trimmings at Akshathai

At Malayan Cafe, the best ever Sambaru Curry

At Malayan Cafe, the best ever Sambaru Curry

After meals Beetle chew

After meals Beetle chew

Brunch

This is not a Jaffna dish but tasty all the same

This is not a Jaffna dish but tasty all the same

Baked potato with garnish

Baked potato with garnish

Lunch

Authentic Point Pedro lunch

Authentic Point Pedro lunch

Yummy is not the word

Yummy is not the word

Fried mullet at Fort Hammenhiel Restaurant

Fried mullet at Fort Hammenhiel Restaurant

Devilled cuttlefish at Fort Hammenhiel Restaurant

Devilled cuttlefish at Fort Hammenhiel Restaurant

Delicious pasta, home made by my boss

Delicious pasta, home made by my boss

Afternoon tea goes well with these Murukku

Afternoon tea goes well with these Murukku

Dinner

Mixed Seafood rice at Cosy

Mixed Seafood rice at Cosy

Delicious Jaffna-styled crab curry to go with

Delicious Jaffna-styled crab curry to go with

Poori, Prawns and Potato curry at Gnanam

Poori, Prawns and Potato curry at Gnanam

Ready to eat

Ready to eat

Mangos Special Dosai, that one was delicious

Mangos Special Dosai, that one was delicious

Hot and spicy crab curry at Green Grass

Hot and spicy crab curry at Green Grass

With garlic naan

With garlic naan

Tomato Uththapam at Mangos

Tomato Uththapam at Mangos

Devilled prawns at Gnanam

Devilled prawns at Gnanam

Hot battered cuttlefish at Gnanam

Hot battered cuttlefish at Gnanam

Deep fried pork and onion rings at Thal Sevana

Deep fried pork and onion rings at Thal Sevana

Prawns sticks at Thal Sevana

Prawns sticks at Thal Sevana

When served with all the trimmings

When served with all the trimmings

How about some of these?

How about some of these?

Time to go, enjoy your day!

Time to go, enjoy your day!

Well folks, I guess the time has come to end my fairy tale. I hope I managed to get across what I wanted the things to see in the heart of Jaffna. I hope this will help plan your trip in a proper manner without wasting too much time.

I’ll be seeing you with the next chapter before long. Until then, take care. This is Sri signing off for now.

P.S. I’m sure you would be wondering if I came across the disturbances which wreaked havoc in Jaffna. Here is my two cents about it.

That was an unpardonable crime no matter where it happened and I hope those criminals will get the punishment they deserve for such a heinous crime. However if we start burning tyres, throwing stones at the court, attacking the security forces, forcing to shut down a whole town, burn innocent people’s properties and attacking them every time something like this happens, where would it lead us? Can any of those things undo the damage done or resurrect the dead? We’re living in the 21st century and in a more civilized world. There are crimes in various degrees committed all around the country. What we need is a more effective application of the law and possibly the reintroduction of the death penalty.

Those protesters’ ulterior motive was to disrupt the Victory Day Celebrations on the 18 & 19 May. The politically driven agendas took precedence over the rape and killing. Those ignorant and stupid protesters burned and attacked their own friends’ businesses and vehicles. They without shame tried to pin the incident on the security forces at first. This is a family dispute which went sour and in the end, an innocent girl was the victim for some elders’ sins. These opportunistic political parties take advantage over incidents like these herding uneducated and ignorant people into harm’s way. We need to understand the truth and look at the things in every possible angle before acting like the bull in a China shop.

Remember, we live in a civilized society not in medieval times. The perpetrators have to be prosecuted according to the existing law whether we like it or not. It’s up to those imbecilic policy makers to change the laws accordingly. We don’t kill criminals in public without proper steps no matter how grave the crime they have committed or give them to the angry mobs to be taken apart limb by limb. Those pro-terrorist politicians think they still rule certain areas the barbaric way the terrorists did. How they killed people whenever it suited them. We are not a cannibalized country to behead people in public or stone them. I hope those sinners will be punished to the fullest and they rot in hell.

Coasting along of the Northern Tip – Jaffna Peninsula Chapter 2…

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days 3 Separate Days
Crew I, Me and Myself
Accommodation Morgan’s Inn, Nallur
Transport By Bus, tuk-tuk, bicycle and on foot
Activities Photography, Archaeology, History, etc…
Weather Excellent. (Too hot)
Route Day 1

Nallur->Keerimale->Dambakola Patuna->Kadurugoda->Nilawara->Thondamanaru->Point Pedro->Vallipuram->Manalkadu->Nallur.

Day 2

Nallur->Point Pedro->Nallur.

Day 3

Nallur->KKS->Kondavil->Nallur.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Please read the notes carefully under each topic for further information.
  • Knowing Tamil is beneficial but you can get by with a few mandatory words.
  • People in Jaffna can be very shy so be careful when taking pictures and talking to them.
  • You should ideally have your vehicle or hire a tuk-tuk. Otherwise getting around is going to be tricky if you use public transport.
  • Entering certain places need special permission from the security personnel so be careful about them.
  • You must have plenty of drinking water. Bottled water is recommended as the water in Jaffna has that slightly brackish taste which I don’t like myself.
  • Don’t dump things here and there. Help protect the environment.
  • Special Thanks to Hasi for his report and all the other reports published by my Lakdasun friends.
  • Check the Jaffna Chapter 1 here.
  • Special Thanks to the Heroic Soldiers of Sri Lanka Armed Forces who fought for the freedom of this country, freeing it from the clutches of the terrorism making our future safe while sacrificing their own. You’ll forever be remembered.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hi everyone here I am once again with another fairy tale. Hope you enjoyed the last one when we looked around the heart of colorful Jaffna wandering along the bicycles infested streets. This time I’m taking you towards more rural areas with many more things to see. My friends and I have visited most of these places before and I guess you must have read some of their narrations. However I’m gonna bring them all back and hope you will find something better. Now you must be wondering where we are going. We’ll cover the northern part of Sri Lanka from Mathagal (Dambakola Patuna) to Manalkadu. There are many interesting places to visit and hope you will like what you see. It took me one full day and two half days to cover all of these but I’m hoping you would be able to visit them in less time after reading this.

I used all sorts of transport options from a tuk-tuk, a bicycle, public transport (bus and train) and a motorbike ride from a friend of mine. If you have your own vehicle, it’d so much easier to get around but how long it takes is purely up to you. A little bit of Tamil will certainly help but you can get by so long as you can act well and show them what you want with your face and arms. Ok, if you are ready, let’s see where we are going, shall we? I’m gonna put them in the order I visited but you could plan the best course of route after reading through. By the way, at the end, remind me to tell you what I have missed seeing as well so that you could add them also to your list.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Sri Durga Devi Kovil, Thelippale.
  2. KKS Cement Factory & the Controversial Presidential Palace (from a distance along Maviddhapura-Keerimale Road)
  3. Sirappar Madam aka Ambalama.
  4. Keerimale Pond & Naguleshwaram Kovil.
  5. Dambakola Patuna, Mathagal.
  6. Kadurugoda Temple.
  7. Chunnakam Station & Northern Power Company of CEB.
  8. Nilawara Bottomless Well, Puttur.
  9. Selva Sennathi Kovil & Thondamanaru River.
  10. Northern Border of Sri Lanka, Point Pedro.
  11. Vallipuram Kovil (Vallipura Sakkara Alwar Thiruthalam), Vallipuram.
  12. Dutch Church & Cyprus Trees with Sand Dunes, Manalkadu.
  13. Unidentified Pond, Nelliady.
  14. Therimuri Madam, Point Pedro.
  15. Point Pedro Jetty.
  16. Point Pedro Light House
  17. Maviddapuram Kovil.
  18. KKS Light House.
  19. Thal Sevana Resort, KKS.
  20. KKS Station.
  21. Kondavil Station.
  22. Palmyra Toddy Tapping, Kondavil.

Well, what do you think? Of course, there is so much to see and I got lucky with the last one as I was taking a walk along the railway line from Kondavil. This is the exact order but you could adjust it according to your plans. Before we hit the road, just remember to be careful how you travel and when. Also, think twice when you photograph places, especially Kovils where they are very secretive and want to keep the inner sanctums away from others, people, etc. Further, most of the kovils require the males to remove their shirts when entering inside so make a note of that.

“I visited the places in the following order.

No. 1-13: One day tour hiring a tuk-tuk.

No. 14-16: Using bus and a bicycle for more than half a day.

No. 17-20: With a friend of mine in his motorbike and it took about 3hrs.

No. 21-22: Traveling by train. It took about an hour.”

Day 1

Ok, here we go.

Sri Durga Devi Kovil

We set off at 5.45am from Nallur and took the KKS Road passing Kondavil and Inuvil. Our first stop was the gigantic Hanuman statue in Inuvil and the golden temple. I then took a walk through the Inuvil fair while Sashi, the tuk-tuk driver, went to fill up the petrol. The vendors were busily selling mangoes (“Maampalam” in Tamil) especially the famous Jaffna Karuthakolomban, bananas (“Vaaleippalam” in Tamil) and various vegetables including Vengayam (onions).

Speaking of onions, lemme tell you something really funny I experienced while ordering a meal in one of those restaurants. I went and ordered a “Vengayam Utthapam”, a pizza like roti with onion toppings. They also have tomato topping. When the waiter heard my order, he got very animated and said that there was no such meal as Vengayam Utthapam. However, he pointed at the menu and offered me an Onion Utthapam. When I tried to explain that was exactly I wanted in my broken Tamil, he said rather to my amazement that Onion was a Tamil word, thus the name Onion Utthapam not Vengayam. I felt really foolish of me trying to learn the real Tamil words when even they don’t use them. Like many languages such as Hindi, Tamil and Sinhala they use a lot of English words in between making most of the original words look alien even to the native speakers.

Ok, now that I have taken it off my chest, let’s get on with the journey. After a few snaps, much to the surprise of the vendors and customers (as much as I was surprised to see them at work, they too were equally if not more surprised to find this stranger in shorts and a hat with a camera among them), we went further up towards Chunnakam. Before getting there, Sashi directed me to one of the mostly visited and famous Kovil in Jaffna, Durga Kovil. As I mentioned in my previous article (Jaffna Chapter 1), there are thousands of kovils scattered all around and I was surprised to see that many kovils in such a small area. However, there are a dozen or so popular ones that many people visit and this was one of them. Let’s see the pictures but you will find only the outside of the kovil as they are not keen on revealing the identities of the gods to the media, at least not for casual photographers like me.

Hanuman Statue near Inuvil

Hanuman Statue near Inuvil

Close up

Close up

There Karuthakolomban Vendors

There Karuthakolomban Vendors

Valaippalam

Valaippalam

Maampalam

Maampalam

Now you know the name

Now you know the name

The pond in front

The pond in front

Here it is

Here it is

Interior

Interior

No more pictures beyond here

No more pictures beyond here

KKS Cement Factory & the Controversial Presidential Palace

Well, you must be wondering how on earth I managed to get to these places. I didn’t, just merely took a few pictures from the road thanks to the zoom lens.

We continued further up the KKS Road passing Chunnakam, Thelippale and Mallakam before reaching Maviddapuram Junction. From here if you go straight it’s KKS Junction and if you turn left, it’s the Keerimale Road. To get to KKS, you need permission from the security forces. We’ll come to it later, now let’s turn left.

It’s about 3km from Maviddapuram to Keerimale. On the way, you can see the cement factory to the right rising from the bushes towards the blue sky. I took a few pictures from the road wishing I could go in and see the place. Here are some of the pictures.

In the distance

In the distance

Close up

Close up

Crumbling down

Crumbling down

Another part

Another part

Afterwards, we went further towards Keerimale and suddenly stopped at the sight of the parliament like building to the right. It was almost at the edge of the northern part of the country. There is a huge ravine separating the road to Keerimale from the Moolai-KKS Road on which this palace is located making it impossible to get there other than from the road. I took a few pictures from the edge of the road and here they are.

Beetroot, you’d be surprised to see the things they grow in Jaffna

Beetroot, you’d be surprised to see the things they grow in Jaffna

Empty land but what’s in the far

Empty land but what’s in the far

One of the hot topics in the country

One of the hot topics in the country

The best I could capture

The best I could capture

Away they go

Away they go

Sirappar Madam aka Ambalama

We reached the point where the turn to the Keerimale Pond is. If you want to use the public transport, take the No. 788 Keerimale-Jaffna Bus. It goes right up to Keerimale and there are a number of them. If you read my previous report of the Jaffna Experience in 2013, you must have seen an abandoned structure near the Keerimale Pond. Nobody took any notice of the derelict structure those days but now it’s completely reformed. This is one of the few Madam or Ambalama in Sinhala (resting places) in the Jaffna Peninsula. I got lucky to visit another at Point Pedro but we’ll come to it later.

This is called the Sirappar Madam and must have been built for the benefit of those who came to Naguleswaram Kovil and Keerimale Pond. Archeology department has cleared the place and put up a sign as well. There are signs of separate rooms and a big hall in the center. The walls are still in good shape and built using those typical coral mixed stones. Unfortunately there was no other information or anyone to ask about so check out the pictures.

The shops on either side

The shops on either side

Main entrance

Main entrance

Archaeology board

Archaeology board

Interior

Interior

This used to be full of weeds and bushes

This used to be full of weeds and bushes

One of the many rooms

One of the many rooms

Must've been a pretty big in its prime

Must’ve been a pretty big in its prime

Corridors

Corridors

From the back, Naguleswaram Kovil is right next to this

From the back, Naguleswaram Kovil is right next to this

Time to go

Time to go

Keerimale Pond & Naguleshwaram Kovil.

We then visited the Naguleswaram Kovil next to the Ambalama. It was under renovation so I managed only a couple of pictures from outside. I then walked towards the Keerimale Pond. The time was just gone 7am and the place was completely isolated. There was not a soul in sight and I enjoyed the peacefulness of the place. The morning sea was calm and kept lapping at the shore gently. The Keerimale Pond had about 3ft of water which remained very still. Bear in mind that you can use the pond from 6am to 6pm.

It was a faded blue in color with a tinge of green mixed together. Usually this is full of people bathing in the pond but not today. I could have had a nice and lonely dip coz I had it all for myself but didn’t fancy the idea. There is a sluice gate which brings the water in and out from the sea. There is a drain dug from the gate to the sea about 50-75ft long. Last time I came here, one of my friends had a bath and claimed it was just slightly salty the taste of water. Well it’s one of those miracles by the Mother Nature. If you remember my visit to Baththalangunduwa, they too are blessed with drinking water in that tiny fishing islet which is another of those Mother Nature’s miracles. We’ve a long way to go so see the pictures and get ready.

Entrance to the Kovil

Entrance to the Kovil

Under renovation

Under renovation

Typical signage found all around Jaffna peninsula

Typical signage found all around Jaffna peninsula

Another common tree found in Jaffna

Another common tree found in Jaffna

Long hall at the Kovil

Long hall at the Kovil

Info

Info

There it is

There it is

Not a soul in sight

Not a soul in sight

Placid and isolated

Placid and isolated

Steps around

Steps around

The sluice gate I told you about

The sluice gate I told you about

Not many would've been able to take a pic like this without anyone jumping in and out

Not many would’ve been able to take a pic like this without anyone jumping in and out

The gate from the seaside

The gate from the seaside

Here the canal that leads to the sea

Here the canal that leads to the sea

Morning sea

Morning sea

Hi folks!

Hi folks!

Found on the way to Dambakola Patuna... They seem to cater for the people from outside Jaffna thus the board in Sinhala

Found on the way to Dambakola Patuna… They seem to cater for the people from outside Jaffna thus the board in Sinhala

The fishing vessels nearby

The fishing vessels nearby

Some of them just coming in

Some of them just coming in

Was sitting on his own in the middle of water

Was sitting on his own in the middle of water

Dambakola Patuna

We then drove towards Mathagal where one of the most important incidents in the history of this country occurred many years ago. Dambakola Patuna is where Rev. Sangamiththa Therani brought the sacred branch of the Sri Maha Bodhi, probably the most worshipped tree in the whole world. The road ran parallel to the coast and except a couple of small fishing villages it was largely isolated. You can spot many Brahminy Kites circling around hunting for fish.

Finally we arrived at the Dambakola Patuna passing through the Mathagal town which comprised two tiny shops. There is a huge building now at the car park with a sign saying “Dambakolapatuna Rest”. This is a newly formed rest and run by the navy. It’s a great thing as there is hardly any place for the pilgrims to stay. I’ve got the contact details and accommodation options for your information.

“Dambakolapatuna Rest by the Navy

Telephone No. 021-3202731

7500/- for AC Room (9 People)

3500/- without AC (9 People)”

If you fancy taking the public transport, you have to take the No. 787 Mathagala-Jaffna Bus. I then took a walk through this tranquil temple with its pristine white stupa and serene Buddha Statue and the shady Bo tree. We must be grateful for the Navy, Army and Air Force for looking after places like these so that we could go and worship in peace. The place was impeccably maintained day and night by the navy boys cleaning it and having a tough time with the stray dogs. Let’s go and see the pictures.

Very historical place

Very historical place

Let's go in

Let’s go in

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

Very well maintained

Very well maintained

Beautiful stupa

Beautiful stupa

Just look at that... is this Gatakara or Danyakara?

Just look at that… is this Gatakara or Danyakara?

Love this

Love this

Khomba flowers

Khomba flowers

The image house

The image house

The legend

The legend

You are here

You are here

How it happened

How it happened

Closer look

Closer look

How can you ever forget those heroes?

How can you ever forget those heroes?

A pity having to place such notice boards

A pity having to place such notice boards

None in sight

None in sight

Well, not really

Well, not really

Don't worry, they are not fingers but sea plants

Don’t worry, they are not fingers but sea plants

The replica of the vessel

The replica of the vessel

Beautifully created

Beautifully created

There's Rev. Sangamiththa's statue

There’s Rev. Sangamiththa’s statue

Must be a water spring

Must be a water spring

The road and the anicut

The road and the anicut

Part of the vessel showing its sails

Part of the vessel showing its sails

From the road

From the road

Other side of the water way

Other side of the water way

Found him in the distance

Found him in the distance

Resting place near the navy-run hotel

Resting place near the navy-run hotel

Car park and the Dambakola Patuna Rest

Car park and the Dambakola Patuna Rest

Here it is

Here it is

Going back towards Kadurugoda

Going back towards Kadurugoda

Natural harbor for the fishing boats

Natural harbor for the fishing boats

All alone

All alone

Kadurugoda Temple

We retraced our steps and returned to Maviddapuram from where took the Chunnakam road. We hadn’t had any breakfast or water so stopped at a shop in Thelippale. After a Poori and Wadei meal followed by a typical local chewing gum like thing (made of beetle leaves, aricanut, tobacco and Ca(OH)2 or CaCO3. It makes your saliva brick red and is commonly used by farmers, laborers, etc. Bear in mind the use of tobacco can cause cancer), we arrived at Chunnakam.

You have to turn left to Kadurugoda if coming from Jaffna and the right will take you to Puttur where Nilawara bottomless well is located. As we came from KKS side, we took a right turn and it’s about 4-5km from Chunnakam to Kadurugoda. The road is well sign posted so you can easily find it. The place is in better shape compared to the last time and army is providing the security because the temple has already lost a lot of land thanks to the greedy and extreme neighborhood.

This is mainly a crematory ground of the Arhath Monks in the past. There are 60 crematory stupas (remember the Alahana Pirivena in Polonnaruwa). They have located 56 tombs out of those 60. You will see different sized stupas (definitely depending on their spiritual levels) numbered by the archeological department. Ok, let’s now see the pictures.

Done a lot of renovation to the site

Done a lot of renovation to the site

The path

The path

Boundary of the neighbors

Boundary of the neighbors

Beauties

Beauties

The legend. Did you know the Sinhala name of Chunnakam was Hunugama?

The legend. Did you know the Sinhala name of Chunnakam was Hunugama?

Image house

Image house

The area is fenced off

The area is fenced off

Here they are

Here they are

Closer look

Closer look

Newly numbered

Newly numbered

One of the bigger stupa

One of the bigger stupa

Several others

Several others

Some more

Some more

The 56th one

The 56th one

Bo tree

Bo tree

Another tiny image house

Another tiny image house

Found them on the way back

Found them on the way back

Looks great

Looks great

Chunnakam Station & Northern Power Company of CEB.

We turned around and reached Chunnakam and carried straight on towards Puttur. About half a km from the Chunnakam junction we met the Chunnakam station. I just got Sashi to stop and went in search of the newly built station. After a walk around, as I was getting into the tuk-tuk I happened to see this huge cylindrical tanks about 150m from the road. It turned out to be the CEB complex. I took another few pictures so you can see them now.

Newly built Chunnakam station

Newly built Chunnakam station

Isolated

Isolated

The power plant is there

The power plant is there

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

See those boys sitting and taking a break near the signal pillar

See those boys sitting and taking a break near the signal pillar

Famous Jaffna onion fields

Famous Jaffna onion fields

Tobacco leaves

Tobacco leaves

And Jaffna Chilies too

And Jaffna Chilies too

Close up

Close up

Ploughed and ready to sow

Ploughed and ready to sow

One of the agricultural wells

One of the agricultural wells

They are getting things ready

They are getting things ready

Nilawara Bottomless Well

Let’s go see what this mysterious well is. We continued along the Puttur road and after a couple of kms reached the well. It’s really a surprising place and nobody has found how deep it really is. Apparently a group of American geological experts had come but not been able to find the exact depth. I guess we have to put more emphasis on the mystery of this and must try to solve it one way or the other.

If you scroll up and check the tour highlights for a second, you will see the unidentified pond at number 13. I heard that these ponds (Keerimale, Nilawara, Nelliady, etc.) are all interconnected together underneath. Well who knows what other mysteries are there? Before going into the pictures, remind me to tell you something about Thondamanaru when we go to Point Pedro coz I got lucky to have met a retired surveyor from Point Pedro who has plenty of experience in the area. Right now, enjoy the pictures of the mysterious well.

The mysterious well

The mysterious well

Let's go in

Let’s go in

Here we are

Here we are

Strange color

Strange

colour

The steps to the water level

The steps to the water level

There

There

This taken from the water level

This taken from the water level

See the pipeline that takes water from the well?

See the pipeline that takes water from the well?

Common sight along the roads

Common sight along the roads

Brahminy Kite

Brahminy Kite

Devouring its catch

Devouring its catch

The lagoon before Point Pedro off Achchuvely

The lagoon before Point Pedro off Achchuvely

Isolated road

Isolated road

Continuous hunt for something to eat

Continuous hunt for something to eat

Very still like a statue

Very still like a statue

Fish traps

Fish traps

Selva Sennathi Kovil & Thondamanaru River

Our next stop was the starting point of the Kataragama Pada Yathra, Selva Sennathi Kovil. We continued until Achchuveli and then turned to the north to reach Thondamanaru. The Thondamanaru River was to our right and it flows into the sea off Selva Sennathi Kovil. The ride was very pleasant despite the unforgiving sun. Finally we arrived at the kovil and took the pictures. There were a handful of people in the kovil and another group of people was enjoying a dip in the Thondamanaru River.

Northern Provincial Hydrological Research Center is also located nearby with a sluice gate barricading the flow of water into and from the sea. Well, I asked you to remind me of the story about Thondamanaru River, didn’t I? According to the surveyor, the water of Thondamanaru river had been in excellent quality but after the LTTE terrorists started wreaking havoc in the area, all the irrigation systems were abandoned thus paving way for the sea water to get mixed with the pure water of Thondamanaru river and made it nearly useless.

He claims that it could easily solve the water issue in the peninsula if the authorities brought back the irrigation systems and divert the excess water of Iranamadu to the Thondamanaru river. I think it is more important for the people than the highways. Hopefully someone will recognize the importance of this and make it happen in the near future. This also reminds me what the Dutch (guess it’s them, or is it the English?) did in Delft Island. Those heartless idiots dug tunnels from the sea linking them to the internal fresh water ponds and making them unusual. This resulted natives fleeing the island so that they could breed the horses and do their sea operations without a problem. Right, here we check out the pictures.

There it is

There it is

Closer look

Closer look

Beautiful

Beautiful

Where the famous and traditional Pada Yathra begins

Where the famous and traditional Pada Yathra begins

The interior

The interior

Closer look

Closer look

A small pond where people take a bath before and after bathing in Thondamanaru River

A small pond where people take a bath before and after bathing in Thondamanaru River

Located nearby

Located nearby

There's the anicut

There’s the anicut

Long and beautiful

Long and beautiful

Closer look

Closer look

Not accessible

Not accessible

Time to go

Time to go

Northern Border of Sri Lanka

Our next stop was going to be one of the places I had dreamed day and night. The northern most part of my country where there is a lion’s flag erected. To be able to see that lion’s flag with my own eyes was another milestone in my traveling career. We passed Thondamanaru and drove through Velvatithurai. Sashi wanted to take me to see the house where one of the sadistic and evil terrorists was born but I vehemently opposed the idea. That was the last thing I wanted to go see. If he thought I spent all that time and money traveling all the way to visit that house, he had another think coming.

We drove along the busy coastal road with plenty of fishing boats were anchored. The owners were mending the nets, preparing fish for drying, etc. The sun was climbing up steadily becoming fierce every second. Finally, I saw the distant view of the magical flag and my heart leaped with joy. I urged Sashi to drive quickly “Thakkana Ponga” and he obliged. As soon as the tuk-tuk came to an abrupt halt, I jumped out and ran out to the flag feeling ten feet tall. There I spent around 20mins taking pictures and admiring the view. Unfortunately someone or a group of people had barricaded the land to the right of the flag post making the view not so grand. I wonder who was responsible for that. Anyway, here are the pictures. Hurry up coz we gotta travel a long way.

Now along the northern most road

Now along the northern most road

Busy at work

Busy at work

Around Velvetiturai

Around Velvetiturai

Tough way of living

Tough way of living

Dried fish area

Dried fish area

Lion's flag is nearby

Lion’s flag is nearby

Throw the net

Throw the net

There it is in mid-air

There it is in mid-air

A dream come true

A dream come true

Cages, must be used to dry fish

Cages, must be used to dry fish

Oh yeah, I was there

Oh yeah, I was there

Beautiful place but didn't like that fence like thing

Beautiful place but didn’t like that fence like thing

Sensational

Sensational

I had to have pic of mine (see the distance given from Dondra to Point Pedro?)

I had to have pic of mine (see the distance given from Dondra to Point Pedro?)

A huge chunk of fish

A huge chunk of fish

Brahminy Kite on the prowl

Brahminy Kite on the prowl

Attending to their trade

Attending to their trade

Getting closer to PP jetty

Getting closer to PP jetty

The rest of PP will come later

The rest of PP will come later

Vallipuram Kovil (Vallipura Sakkara Alwar Thiruthalam)

Here we go. We drove inland from the Point Pedro Harbour and passing through the town centre went further down on Point Pedro-Jaffna road. At the 32nd km post (near Puloly) took the left turn into the Vallipuram road. Remember if you come from Jaffna, it’s the right turn. If you do the light house which is further along the coastal road passing the harbour, the other Point Pedro-Vallipuram road (B370) is linked to the main one (B371) at Katkovalam. Study the map and you will know what it is. Remember, if you go to Manalkadu, it’s the same road you have to take, but we’ll come to it later.

We drove along the marshy land bordered road until we arrived at the famous Vallipuram Kovil. It’s said that a gold inscription was found in the premises but no further details could be found. I hope someone can shed some light on the matter as to what happened to it and what was written in if the story is true. There was a Bo tree in the Kovil premises which was full of hung tiny skeleton wooden baskets (very much like children cots). I wonder if the parents without kids hang them hoping to have kids. This could be a similar ritual of the Hindus like what the Buddhists do by hanging flags on Bo trees. How about some pictures?

Entrance to Vallupuram Kovil

Entrance to Vallupuram Kovil

Walking

Walking

Ripe Nuga fruits, favored by birds and squirrels

Ripe Nuga fruits, favored by birds and squirrels

This is in fact the back entrance

This is in fact the back entrance

Those things I told you about

Those things I told you about

Closer view

Closer view

Stone statues and creations found on site

Stone statues and creations found on site

Stone statues and creations found on site

Stone statues and creations found on site

Side entrance

Side entrance

Here's the front

Here’s the front

Looks grand, doesn't it?

Looks grand, doesn’t it?

Portrait

Portrait

Found next to the entrance

Found next to the entrance

Let's move on

Let’s move on

Manalkadu Sand Dunes & the Ruins of the Dutch Church

 

Our next stop was Manalkadu. You have to continue along the Vallipuram road (B371) and turn left at the 9th km post. There is a big signage as well so you can’t go wrong. From there onwards, you will notice the change of landscape with white sand dunes and Cyprus trees mixed together. Similar landscapes could be found in the areas of Kilali and Nagarkovil where our soldiers defended the Jaffna peninsula. There is very little cover and they lost many brave soldiers in many fierce battles.

After a couple of kms, we saw the Dutch church in its last legs but without stopping went till we came to the beach. Tsunami had destroyed this area as well and we saw new housing schemes for those who affected had been built. After a short stay, we turned around and headed to the remains of the church. Its outer walls are still in place you will find an archeological notice also nearby. The burial ground of the villagers is located also closer and surprisingly it’s on the sand itself. We then returned on the same road and on the way among the cyprus trees was a palmyra roof hut. We saw many people coming out of it and found it to be a toddy selling point. Unfortunately they had just finished the business so we came back to the Point Pedro road and headed towards Jaffna. Well you may check out the pictures now.

Sign board

Sign board

Found at the turn off

Found at the turn off

Buds

Buds

Oh ho

Oh ho

There the Manalkadu beach

There the Manalkadu beach

No one in sight

No one in sight

Old church and a statue to commemorate the Tsunami victims

Old church and a statue to commemorate the Tsunami victims

Here's the Dutch Church

Here’s the Dutch Church

See the archaeological board?

See the archaeological board?

Only the walls remain

Only the walls remain

Inner section

Inner section

Walls from inside

Walls from inside

Long walls

Long walls

Cyprus trees

Cyprus trees

A whole lot

A whole lot

Very unique place

Very unique place

What's that?

What’s that?

The toddy place

The toddy place

Time to go

Time to go

Unidentified Pond

Well, don’t get alarmed at the topic coz I simply couldn’t get the name of this place despite having a typical archeological notice nearby. This is located in Nelliady right next to the Nelliady Kovil which had been built rather recently compared to the pond. This is not as big as the Yamuna Pond but a lot deeper. The water level is about 20ft below the ground level and is about 10′ X 10′. There is a path that leads to the pond but can’t get to it.

The belief is that this pond is interconnected together with the Nilawara Bottomless Well, Keerimale Pond and Selva Sennathi Kovil underground. Whether it is true or not is something we don’t know and might never find. Let’s see the pictures coz we’re coming to the end of the day 1. I have to get back and plan for the other places. Until then check the pictures.

Here it is very clear


Here it is very clear

This is the pond and pity there is no info

This is the pond and pity there is no info

One end

One end

Pretty deep

Pretty deep

Side walls

Side walls

Full view

Full view

Waiting patiently

Waiting patiently

And flew away

And flew away

Day 2

Hello folks, are you ready for the day 2? Let’s go to Point Pedro and see what else is there for us to see. I went to the Nallur Kovil where I took a 751 Point Pedro bus but it turned out to be a big mistake coz it goes through Thondamanaru, Uduppidy, Velvettithurai, Polikandy and Alvai rather than going straight to Point Pedro. For that you should take the 750 bus. After a round about trip I finally arrived in Point Pedro where one of my friends was waiting for me. Before we go anywhere, just take a look around the Point Pedro market.

Just opened the stall

Just opened the stall

Long lines of vegies

Long lines of vegies

I simply loved this place; see the different materials of camouflage

I simply loved this place; see the different materials of camouflage

Therimuri Madam

Our first stop was Therimuri Madam located a little bit away from the Point Pedro town along Thumpalai road. It’s kinda huge entrance into the Point Pedro. The madam is built on either side of the road with a roof connecting the two sides. The old roof had been gone but the authorities have been kind enough to place a new one protecting the walls. On one side of the structure there is a sign that must have been a door leading into inner chambers but now nothing else is there other than the two narrow corridors on either side about 15ft in length. Let’s look at the pictures and I’m going to my friend’s house for some breakfast and to borrow a bicycle for the rest of the journey.

The road goes through

The road goes through

Built long ago but when?

Built long ago but when?

Narrow corridor

Narrow corridor

Closer look

Closer look

From the other end

From the other end

Now they even park bicycles

Now they even park bicycles

The door I mentioned you about

The door I mentioned you about

Done in the recent past

Done in the recent past

Granite pillars

Granite pillars

Time to go

Time to go

One of those typical village wells

One of those typical village wells

This is my friend's house, very old

This is my friend’s house, very old

Point Pedro Fishing Harbour

After breakfast we rode along the roads seeing the day-to-day lives unfolding. The bicycle I rode was a very old one but still in good shape. No wonder coz its maker is Asia Bike and made in Japan. That is another example for the quality of Japanese products. We road towards Alvai passing the famous Hartley College. The fishing boats had come in to the shore from their fishing and the beach looked really busy. The dogs, crows and many other birds including Brahminy Kites were busy too wondering what to choose from many different kinds of fish.

We then started cycling towards the jetty but my friend showed me a Palmyra tree bending towards the sea along the coastal road to the light house. She said that this was considered the top most point and coincidentally this Palmyra tree is the marker. Apparently it’s been there all the time and going to that I too felt that there must be something in folklore. But let’s look at the jetty first. There is a sign erected giving directions to the nearby countries from Point Pedro. Well, I won’t bore with the details, just look at these pictures.

Here is my bicycle

Here is my bicycle

Original from Japan

Original from Japan

A house in ruins

A house in ruins

There Gaja Laxmi

There Gaja Laxmi

Very famous Hartley College, PP.

Very famous Hartley College, PP.

The church in front of it

The church in front of it

Front

Front

Back along the northern tip

Back along the northern tip

Coming into the natural harbor

Coming into the natural harbor

Bringing their catch

Bringing their catch

Anchored craft

Anchored craft

The crow boat

The crow boat

Familiar sight and no age barriers

Familiar sight and no age barriers

Separating the fish according to their kind

Separating the fish according to their kind

Saalaya

Saalaya

Being dried in the piercing sun

Being dried in the piercing sun

Fresh catch

Fresh catch

Hovering

Hovering

He’s found something to eat

He’s found something to eat

The Palmyra tree I told you about, can you see it leaning towards the sea?

The Palmyra tree I told you about, can you see it leaning towards the sea?

PP Jetty

PP Jetty

Closer look

Closer look

Anchored and waiting

Anchored and waiting

Few vessels at the jetty

Few vessels at the jetty

Getting ready to have some lunch

Getting ready to have some lunch

Other side

Other side

He was still cooking and the smell of dried fish curry made my mouth salivate to no end

He was still cooking and the smell of dried fish curry made my mouth salivate to no end

Many vivid flags

Many vivid flags

Boat along the sand

Boat along the sand

Here is the name board

Here is the name board

Property of SL Customs

Property of SL Customs

Must go see it

Must go see it

Can you see the info on the board in Tamil?

Can you see the info on the board in Tamil?

Inside

Inside

Here is something really interesting

Here is something really interesting

Map of the southern part of the world

Map of the southern part of the world

See the distances?

See the distances?

Point Pedro Light House

We rode further along the beach road passing many fishing vessels, fishermen and fish drying spots. Couple of times I went into the huts where they prepare the raw fish to be dried. We were very thirsty as well so stopped by a shop and had orange barely. I guess that was the tastiest orange barely I ever had. Then, we arrived at the Palmyra tree I mentioned above and took a few pictures.

Ok, let’s go and check if they would allow us to see the light house. It is inside the Point Pedro navy camp and most of the people I checked said that they wouldn’t allow for me to go see it but I was going to take my chance. There was a navy soldier at the guard house and all I had to tell him was that I was there to see the light house. He immediately summoned one of his colleagues and asked him to let us see the light house.

Even though it is technically inside the navy camp, the navy soldiers have wisely fenced off the light house (the size of about 15’X15′) making a separate entrance to the base. I asked the soldier who came to show us if they allow anyone to visit and he said yes they would if we asked. So remember, just go and ask then they will allow you in. Even my friend who has been born and bred in Point Pedro hadn’t been to the light house all her life thinking that was out of bounds. Well it was but not anymore. This light house is 88m in height (four times compared to the KKS one) but they wouldn’t allow you to climb up as the iron stairs are rusty. I’m sure it’d have easily held me but I didn’t wanna push my luck to the breaking point.

Hopefully, in the near future these light houses would be renovated and opened for the public. Let’s keep our fingers crossed and wait. Until then, you just have to be content with these pictures.

These are slightly bigger than sprats

These are slightly bigger than sprats

Famous Katta

Famous Katta

Closer

Closer

These were being cut into square shaped chunks

These were being cut into square shaped chunks

Here and coated with salt

Here and coated with salt

Some more people at work

Some more people at work

Ready to be mixed with salt

Ready to be mixed with salt

Safety first

Safety first

Many boats

Many boats

With the lion's flag

With the lion’s flag

More

More

Closer look

Closer look

Anguluwa, look at the stings at the mouth

Anguluwa, look at the stings at the mouth

They were being cut and cleaned

They were being cut and cleaned

Couple of rays

Couple of rays

Common sight

Common sight

That Palmyra tree

That Palmyra tree

That stinking comms tower has destroyed the beauty of the light house

That stinking comms tower has destroyed the beauty of the light house

Closer look

Closer look

Wow

Wow

Entrance, see the Tsunami level

Entrance, see the Tsunami level

Imposing

Imposing

Steps to the top

Steps to the top

Looking up to the lamp house

Looking up to the lamp house

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Wish I could climb up

Wish I could climb up

Navy is maintaining it well

Navy is maintaining it well

Oh my goat

Oh my goat

From the distance

From the distance

Couldn't get any closer

Couldn’t get any closer

One of my favorites

One of my favorites

Me looking up and squinting coz of the sun

Me looking up and squinting coz of the sun

Ready to catch some

Ready to catch some

Threw the net

Threw the net

And got this

And got this

This is where most of the people come in the evening to enjoy

This is where most of the people come in the evening to enjoy

Couldn't get enough of her

Couldn’t get enough of her

Through the openings and see the rungs?

Through the openings and see the rungs?

Navy sign

Navy sign

What's there in the middle?

What’s there in the middle?

Oh, like Mickey Mouse

Oh, like Mickey Mouse

Time to go eat

Time to go eat

Well, afterwards I went and had a delicious and authentic Point Pedro lunch with Chicken, Murunga, Dhal, Rice and Pittu. You saw the pictures in the Chapter 1. Now I’ve got to go catch the bus back to Jaffna and I’m going to make sure it’s the 750 bus not the 751. See you on the day 3.

Day 3

Hi everyone, are you ready to complete the tour along the northern tip of Sri Lanka? Well, if you are, we’ll make a start. It was 6.30am when I left Nallur with another friend of mine in his motorbike. Our destination, KKS. We rode merrily and arrived at the Maviddapuram junction.

Maviddapuram Kovil

We stopped to take pictures of the Maviddapuram Kovil which is in a derelict state. This is still considered one of the most popular Kovil among those thousands. We will have to face some barriers ahead. I’ll tell you how we overcame them after the pictures.

Inuvil Station

Inuvil Station

I'm sure you remember this

I’m sure you remember this

Maviddapuram Kovil

Maviddapuram Kovil

Not in use

Not in use

KKS Light House

The road from Maviddapuram junction to KKS is run through the high security zone. However the army lets the Lorries which go to the port to bring the cement and other goods carried by the ships. We went and told the military police about our intentions of seeing the light house. One officer looked as if he wanted to walk up a ceiling. I managed to convince that I was not an escapee from the mental hospital. He then said that we were not to take any pictures of the place. So finally I told him that we’d just go and see it as we’d come that far.

We were given a pass which said “Thal Sevana”. So we continued and arrived at the KKS junction and saw this beautiful white structure rising to the sky. This was renovated by the army couple of years ago and in good condition however you are not allowed to climb up. There was nobody around so I took a couple of pictures just because I couldn’t resist it. Compared to other light houses, this is a tiny one with a height of 22m. We then went towards the Thal Sevana coz we were hungry and decided to take a look at the resort anyway. Here are some pictures of the light house and mind you there are pictures taken from the Thal Sevana Resort as well. There is a walking path from the resort and you can see the light house clearly.

The story, hope you can read it

The story, hope you can read it

Oh yeah!

Oh yeah!

Beautiful

Beautiful

Must be one of the very few in good condition

Must be one of the very few in good condition

Copper plated lamp house

Copper plated lamp house

This is the walking path from Thal Sevana

This is the walking path from Thal Sevana

Closer

Closer

Excellent

Excellent

Let's go see the hotel now

Let’s go see the hotel now

Thal Sevana Resort

We arrived at a typical brick red train wagon with the Thal Sevana board. On the wagon there was a name plate “Yaal Devi”. There was a station master in his usual attire but he of course was working in the restaurant. This is a wagon length restaurant separate from the resort but owned by them. A good place to go and have a meal. We were the only customers and after ordering we went out for a walk. You wanna see the pictures for sure here they are.

Here we are

Here we are

Going in

Going in

Train carriage

Train carriage

Me at Yal Devi

Me at Yal Devi

Interior

Interior

Towards the kitchen and see the chef?

Towards the kitchen and see the chef?

Along the red carpet

Along the red carpet

Out and about

Out and about

Nice setting

Nice setting

Playground for the kids

Playground for the kids

Screaming at the top of its voice

Screaming at the top of its voice

Relaxing points

Relaxing points

Me with the SM's cap

Me with the SM’s cap

Here our hosts

Here our hosts

Now to the main area

Now to the main area

Very big

Very big

Swimming pool, note they don't use sea water

Swimming pool, note they don’t use sea water

Wouldn't mind staying a few days here

Wouldn’t mind staying a few days here

Garden

Garden

Well, they'll be remembered

Well, they’ll be remembered

Around

Around

These are cottages

These are cottages

Lamps

Lamps

Ship at KKS harbor

Ship at KKS harbor

This says quite a lot

This says quite a lot

Here's the front

Here’s the front

Hospitality

Hospitality

Old vehicles

Old vehicles

Morris Oxford

Morris Oxford

Here it is

Here it is

Austin Cambridge

Austin Cambridge

Here it is

Here it is

Finally Austin A30

Finally Austin A30

What do you think?

What do you think?

Model of Aandiya Well, used to be very popular in Jaffna but not anymore

Model of Aandiya Well, used to be very popular in Jaffna but not anymore

Ok, don’t be surprised if you didn’t find any pictures of our meal because you saw them in the previous report. We bid farewell to the chefs and walked towards the resort. You can get more information on it on their website. This really is an ideal place for your next holiday. There were a couple of groups already enjoying their hard earned holidays. Well you can check the pictures now and I changed my plans for the return journey.

KKS Station

The time was around 9.30am and there was a red S11 idling at the northern most railway station, KKS ready to leave for Colombo via Jaffna. I told my friend to go ahead without me and pick me from Kondavil station. The station looked brand new and I took a few pictures. Then we set off stopping at Maviddapuram, Thelippale, Mallakam, Chunnakam and Inuvil before coming to rest at Kondavil where I got down.

Creating history once again

Creating history once again

Indian lady without her veil

Indian lady without her veil

Not ready to leave yet

Not ready to leave yet

Isolated station

Isolated station

Interior

Interior

No one in

No one in

Here we go

Here we go

Mallakam

Mallakam

This is the Chunnakam Power Plant

This is the Chunnakam Power Plant

From the moving train

From the moving train

Stopped at Inuvil, just before my destination

Stopped at Inuvil, just before my destination

Kondavil Station

It took about 20mins to reach Kondavil and without much hullabaloo, here are some pictures just to show you around these unknown and not frequently visited places.

At Kondavil

At Kondavil

She left me

She left me

Still new

Still new

Moving on

Moving on

Palmyra Toddy Tapping

Well, what do you know about toddy? Raise your hand if you have ever tasted toddy? Well don’t look sheepish if you raised your hand. There are three different types of toddy in Sri Lanka. Coconut Toddy in the Southern Part, Kitul Palm Toddy in the Central (remember Nava Mama tapping the Kitul Tree in his land in one of my trips?) and Palmyra Toddy in the North. While I stacked the camera in the bag and called it a tour completed and walking out of the station, there was a movement to my left.

Looking to the left, I noticed a man climbing down a Palmyra tree with the things carried by a tapper. He then took the juice tapped to his bike parked nearby and poured it into the big container. I looked up to see plenty of clay pots hanging from the Palmyra trees around. He then returned and started his journey up along another. By then I was ready and took everything on my camera which will be presented to you now. This is the last of my attractions from the tour of Northern Tip. Enjoy its pictures before I come for my dramatic conclusion.

Look at that

Look at that

Closer look

Closer look

Ready to go

Ready to go

On the go

On the go

Not easy

Not easy

Come on, keep going

Come on, keep going

Finally

Finally

Collecting

Collecting

Not easy but for him it's a walk in the park

Not easy but for him it’s a walk in the park

Careful

Careful

Ok, time to go... be safe

Ok, time to go… be safe

Finally my friend's house near the station

Finally my friend’s house near the station

Well, what do you think? Was it helpful in anyway and is there anything I missed? Yeah, I did miss a couple of things both intentionally and without the means.

* Cave Complex at Thondamanaru.

* KKS Cement Factory.

The cave I purposely ignored coz I’m not a great fan of caves especially that kinda one. I’d have loved to visit the cement factory though but didn’t get lucky with a useful contact. Maybe some other time. I’m sure that there are many things to see and places to visit hidden away from the public. I tried to bring as many of them as possible to you and hope my efforts were worth the trouble. Here I end my Chapter 2 of this colorful part of our beautiful country.

I’ll see you in the next one and it’s gonna be very especial too. Until then, take care and keep traveling. This is Sri leaving for now.

Ferrying from Island to Island – Jaffna Peninsula Chapter 3…

$
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Year and Month May 2015
Number of Days 2 Separate Days
Crew Only me on Day 1 // Friend of mine (Paval) & Me on Day 2
Accommodation Morgan’s Inn, Nallur
Transport By Train, Bus, Tuk-Tuk and on Foot
Activities Archaeology, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Day 01

Nallur->Jaffna->Kurikkattuwan>Nagadeepa and back.

 Day 02

 Nallur->Jaffna->Kayts->Eluvathivu->back to Jaffna->Karainagar->Fort Hammenhiel>Casurina Beach->back to Jaffna.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Please read the notes carefully under each topic for further information.
  • Knowing Tamil is beneficial but you can get by with a few mandatory words.
  • People in Jaffna can be very shy so be careful when taking pictures and talking to them.
  • A bicycle is the best option to travel in Jaffna if you don’t have your own transport. Buses are there frequently but a bicycle will sort the matters easily.
  • There are many bicycle thieves in Jaffna now. So be careful if you ride in one especially when leaving it unattended. Even a lock won’t be sufficient as they are very good at breaking them with ease.
  • You must have plenty of drinking water. Bottled water is recommended as the water in Jaffna has that slightly brackish taste which I don’t like myself.
  • Don’t dump things here and there. Help protect the environment.
  • Special Thanks to the Heroic Soldiers of Sri Lanka Armed Forces who fought for the freedom of this country, freeing it from the clutches of the terrorism making our future safe while sacrificing their own. You’ll forever be remembered.
  • Special thanks to everyone who helped me in my 100-report travelling career. I can’t mention the names even though I really want to. It’d have to be another mile long report if I decided to do so. So accept my heartfelt gratitude my dear friends.
  • Check Jaffna 1 and Jaffna 2 for more details.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Abeywickrema – 100*

“How much have you seen in this country?”

“Have you finished seeing everything there’s to see?”

“Don’t you get enough of travelling around getting wet and tired?”

“Is there more left for you to see?”

“How many reports have you written by now?”

Questions, endless questions like these are being asked my friends and colleagues day in and day out. No matter what I tell them, they keep coming up with these questions every now and then. Sometimes they rephrase them but the end result is still the same old question. Even I wonder myself sometimes thanks to the persistent enquiring by them how much I’ve really seen in this country. Once at a training about 1 year ago, one of the foreigners asked what I loved doing for which I replied traveling around Sri Lanka. He then asked much I’d seen of Sri Lanka for which I said without thinking much, about 5%. He laughed at me and remarked “some traveler you are then”. I knew he meant it in a sarcastic manner but didn’t wanna pursue the issue further coz there was no point in that.

Even today, when my friends keep on and on I just tell them that I’ve seen less than 10% of what there’s to see in this country. “Is that right?” they won’t stop and I’d reply “I honestly don’t know”. I don’t think anyone can give a specific answer to a question like that. And for those who ask if I don’t get tired of travelling, I’ve got a straight forward answer ready in my armory, “not a chance”. Of course there’s plenty for me to see in this country so that question is pretty much irrelevant. By the way, I don’t travel just because I want to prove that I’ve visited all those places or boast, it’s just my passion nothing more.

And to the last question, I had no idea how many trip reports I’d written coz it’s too difficult to keep abreast with them. I gave up keeping track of them long ago. However, when I published my Udawalawe report, one of my colleagues at work exclaimed that I had only three more to reach a century of reports. I couldn’t believe that but realized he’d not been exaggerating after checking. By then I’d already sent the Jaffna 1 and Jaffna 2 report and was on the process of writing this report. So I figured I’d already completed my 100th trip report but didn’t know about it. Well, don’t ask me how or what I felt coz it simply came so unexpectedly and I’d already completed the 100th report when it dawned on me thanks to my curious colleague.

I can remember though when Ashan published his 100th report long ago (about a year and a half) and felt pretty good about it. I even kept wondering what would it be like to write 100 reports and if I ever could achieve that feat. Finally now that I’ve reached the magical number, I guess I’m supposed to feel overjoyed and be jumping up and down. I joined Lakdasun in July 2012 and since then been a part of this wonderful family for the past  34 months (of course by the time I write this article) and now I’ve reached as Tony Greig would’ve said the triple figures. Looking back, I can see four significant events in my travelling life which transformed it into where I am today.

My first ever trip report which was about Sinharaja helped me get a feel of travelling and I was hooked since then. Then came a major turning point when I attended the Lakdasun gathering on 02 Mar 2013 and met many keen travelers. As a result, Hari (my long-term buddy) and I did the Great Western hike. That was something I really enjoyed and kept me going on and on. The third most crucial one was when we got together and did Bathalegala with Tony, Hari, Dhana, etc. It was a great journey and helped form a great friendship and bond between us. Finally, my 50th trip report helped me expand the scope of travelling when I visited the isolated and very little known Baththalangunduwa Fishing Island off Kalpitiya. Those four journeys have helped me grown from a toddler to man when it comes to travelling. Ok, now you know my secret and achievement, let’s go see what I’ve got for you in this journey, shall we?

Jaffna 3

You now know that I’ve been roaming around Jaffna Peninsula as if it would vanish the face off the earth soon. So far I’ve brought you the things to see in and around the heart of Jaffna (Jaffna 1) and then we travelled along the northern tip of Sri Lanka from Mathagal to Manalkadu (Jaffna 2). This is something different what I’m gonna bring you. Now you’ve seen most of the Jaffna Peninsula had to offer. I know I must have missed quite a lot but hopefully I managed to bring most of the key things. Now, let’s go beyond the peninsula into the islands off the northern part of Sri Lanka.

If you want to know the Islands of Sri Lanka, please click on the link which will take you to the Wikipedia list of islands belong to SL. Even though it looks at a glance as if the Jaffna Peninsula is one huge block of land, it’s in fact a combination of islands. They are connected to the mainland through causeways thus making them look like part of the mainland. The following islands are connected to the mainland via causeways: I’ve given both the Tamil and Sinhala names of them.

Punguduthivu – Punguthdeepa

Mandathivu – Mandadoova

Kurikkattuvan – Kiralakatuvana

Velanai (Kayts) – Bellana (Uruthota)

Naduturitti – Madduriththa

Karaitivu

The above mentioned islands are connected to each other and you can find them if you travel to Nagadeepa along Jaffna-Kurikkattuvan Road. In addition to them, there’s another huge island off Kayts connected via a ferry and that is:

Karaitivu (Karainagar)

Ok, now you have a fairly good idea about the Jaffna Peninsula and its islands which can be reached by road. Of course there are many others that you have to take a dedicated ferry. They are as follows:

Delft (Nethunthivu) – Maedundoova

Nainathivu – Nagadeepa

Eluvaithivu – Eluvadoova

Analaithivu – Annaladoova

Then there are some others that you have to either hire a fishing boat or have a navy contact to go in one of their boats. Let’s see what they are:

Chirutivu – Hiridoova

Kachchathivu – Kachchadoova

Kanantivu – Kaennadoova

Karaitivu

Palaitivu – Paludoova

Paratitivu – Paludoova

Puliyantivu – Kotidoova

Thorattapputti – Doratumukka

Now that our geography lesson is done and over with, we can start our journey.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Nagadeepa Island.
  2. Nagadeepa Viharaya.
  3. Buddha Walauwa Temple.
  4. Nagapusani Amman Kovil.
  5. Flamingoes @ Kayts Causeway.
  6. Eluvathivu Island.
  7. Fort Hammenhiel Restaurant.
  8. Karaingar Light House.
  9. Casurina Beach.
  10. Karaingar Shivam Kovil.
  11. Anaikoddai Fish Market.

Day 01

I was all alone and had nobody to accompany me. Getting up around 5am, I started walking to the Jaffna bus stand and reached by 6am. I wanted to catch the first bus to Kurikkattuvan Jetty which is about 33km from Jaffna. The first bus (always a CTB No. 776 and the ticket is Rs. 72/-) leaves Jaffna at 6.30am and usually gets to Kurikkattuvan in real quick time. It always gets to Kurikkattuvan well before 7.30am so ample time to catch a ferry to Nagadeepa or even to Delft.

Nagadeepa Island & Nagadeepa Viharaya

The bus ride as usual is no worse than a roller coaster. I can still remember my first experience in the Jaffna-Kurikkattuvan bus when I visited Jaffna in 2013. These drivers don’t believe in driving slowly and they keep their foot firmly planted on the accelerator. No stopping or slowing down but keep going at the speed of wind. Fortunately the road from Jaffna to Kayts is under construction and most of it is finished. However it got really interesting when we turned towards Velanai and from there to Kurikkattuvan. The road is not in good shape especially the long Pungudutivu causeway. There are so many pot holes but the driver tried to go above them rather than slow down and take it easy.

The result was that we didn’t have our bottoms on the seat for second or two at a time. The bus would fall into a pit and down goes the seat leaving the bottoms hanging in mid-air. Then the bottom starts its downward journey but by then the fallen bus had started its upward journey thanks to the shock absorbers. This meant the bottoms going down would meet the seats coming up and have this collision. I just gave you the description of a fraction of a second process. This kept going on and on until I couldn’t feel my buttocks anymore. I kept touching them after getting down to make sure I had them still on me.

Getting out of the bus at Kurikkattuvan I just started taking a few pictures while waiting for the ferry to get to Nagadeepa. The morning was nice and cool and the lagoon looks absolutely sensational. Do you want to see the pictures? Here they are:

The bus to Kurikkattuvan

The bus to Kurikkattuvan

The tiny causeway before the Jetty

The tiny causeway before the Jetty

Taking a break

Taking a break

But not him

But not him

Selfie in a different manner

Selfie in a different manner

RDA ferry, probably that takes vehicles to the islands

RDA ferry, probably that takes vehicles to the islands

The RDA run ferry to Delft, free of charge and leaves at 8.30am. There's a second one at 9.30am

The RDA run ferry to Delft, free of charge and leaves at 8.30am. There’s a second one at 9.30am

This is not my boat but the one I took to get to Nagadeepa

This is not my boat but the one I took to get to Nagadeepa

Already there was a large group of people who had come all the way from Hambanthota. I joined them inside the ferry. They kept saying how calm the Jaffna Sea compared to the rough seas in Hambanthota. Probably they didn’t know that this was simply a lagoon and not like Hambanthota. We arrived at the newly renovated jetty of Nagadeepa. Before we go in to the temple, see some of the pictures of the ferry ride.

By the way, you have to pay Rs. 30/- for the ferry ride one way. Why I mentioned one-way is because one lady kept complaining that it was so unfair to charge Rs. 30/- one-way and even offered to suggest they build a bridge between Nagadeepa and Kurikkattuwan. She went onto say that she’d donate Rs. 1000/- for such project.

People from Hambanthota

People from Hambanthota

Leaving the jetty

Leaving the jetty

View in front

View in front

That magnificent flag of all

That magnificent flag of all

Kurikkattuvan behind us now

Kurikkattuvan behind us now

Two vessels going their way

Two vessels going their way

This one returning from Nagadeepa

This one returning from Nagadeepa

There's the entrance to the Temple

There’s the entrance to the Temple

The Kovil

The Kovil

Getting closer

Getting closer

Clad in white and see the little girl

Clad in white and see the little girl

Cheeky

Cheeky

Navy on guard duty

Navy on guard duty

Getting ready to berth

Getting ready to berth

Newly built pier at Nagadeepa

Newly built pier at Nagadeepa

I jumped ahead the rest of the crew as I needed the space to take pictures of the temple without anyone walking around. I was really lucky as I had no problem taking pictures at my will. Other group was clad in white and was on a real pilgrimage. They didn’t hustle and bustle but got on with the rituals and then settled down on the sandy floor in front of the silvery stupa to worship. The peacefulness of the temple enveloped me and I simply didn’t wanna leave. It was so nice I didn’t even want to bother with my camera. After sitting down under the shade of the Bo tree and feeling re-energized, I walked around and took these pictures for you.

Well I’ve a piece of news as well. If you want to go around the island, a tuk-tuk can be found for about Rs. 1,000/- – Rs. 1,500/-. I didn’t really want to try it. In addition to that, there’s a bus now running in the island coz the number of people living in it has gone up. It operates from Nagapusani Amman Kovil to the other end of the island (about 1km) back and forth throughout the day. Even a ride in that bus might help you if you really wanna see the island.

Here they get off

Here they get off

I started ahead them

I started ahead them

The vessels moored along the beach

The vessels moored along the beach

Special boat service

Special boat service

Here they come

Here they come

The wall of the Temple

The wall of the Temple

Very ancient temple, the second place where Lord Buddha arrived in Sri Lanka after Mahiyangana

Very ancient temple, the second place where Lord Buddha arrived in Sri Lanka after Mahiyangana

Muchalinda Naga Daranaya

Muchalinda Naga Daranaya

This is one of the most beautiful Dagobas I've seen

This is one of the most beautiful Dagobas I’ve seen

Silvery

Silvery

Spire

Spire

Other side of the road

Other side of the road

Bo tree

Bo tree

Closer

Closer

The legend

The legend

Image of Lord Buddha preaching to the Nagas

Image of Lord Buddha preaching to the Nagas

The beliefs

The beliefs

Worshipping

Worshipping

Simply amazing

Simply amazing

Inside one of the image houses

Inside one of the image houses

See who's built a house?

See who’s built a house?

Main image house

Main image house

The legend

The legend

In Sinahala

In Sinahala

And in English

And in English

Going towards it

Going towards it

The top

The top

Replica of a moonstone and guard stones

Replica of a moonstone and guard stones

Main Buddha Statue

Main Buddha Statue

One each on either side

One each on either side

The other one

The other one

Beautiful paintings of Nagas

Beautiful paintings of Nagas

Some more

Some more

The ceiling

The ceiling

People who've kept the temple going all this time

People who’ve kept the temple going all this time

A replica

A replica

Here they are worshipping

Here they are worshipping

Time to go and leave them in peace

Time to go and leave them in peace

The bus being operated on the island

The bus being operated on the island

Buddha Walauwa Temple

Did you like those pics? Right, let’s take a short walk, shall we? I started walking towards the Nagapusani Amman Kovil but stopped suddenly when I saw a notice to my left saying “Buddha Walauwa Temple – 500m”. Well, I don’t have to tell you what I did next, do I? I started walking towards it and had to take another right turn before reaching the completely isolated temple. I guess they’d found this granite Buddha Statue in the location recently and kept it for display. However, it doesn’t look like anybody goes there.

I was the sole person on site except for a gorgeous Indian Roller aka Dumbonna (not a good name for such a beautiful bird but what to do?). The granite Buddha statue kept in a small box like thing on a pedestal looks simply beautiful. Why delay further, here are the pictures.

Nobody is around yet

Nobody is around yet

Here's the turn off and note the name of the road

Here’s the turn off and note the name of the road

One of the houses along the road

One of the houses along the road

Found him too

Found him too

He was a bit far away

He was a bit far away

Palmyra land

Palmyra land

Finally here

Finally here

Tiny image house with a Bo tree

Tiny image house with a Bo tree

Here the other building

Here the other building

Couldn't know what this exactly was and the significance of it

Couldn’t know what this exactly was and the significance of it

Ancient Buddha Statue found

Ancient Buddha Statue found

Closer

Closer

Fully granite

Fully granite

The Indian Roller

The Indian Roller

Some of the ruins found on the way

Some of the ruins found on the way

Closer look

Closer look

P.O. Box

P.O. Box

Nagapusani Amman Kovil

I walked back to the main road and started the short walk towards the Nagapusani Amman Kovil. The stalls either side of the road were being opened by the owners. The sun had risen fully up to the sky sending his blazing, fresh and golden rays all over. The sweat had already appeared all over me but I had to endure the open area and go see the kovil. Just like the temple, this too didn’t have many people so I enjoyed a bit of peaceful picture taking. Without much hullabaloo, here are the pictures.

Now I'm at the Kovil

Now I’m at the Kovil

Can walk along the road

Can walk along the road

Cute

Cute

Near the main entrance

Near the main entrance

Wanna go in and see

Wanna go in and see

The main pillar

The main pillar

In I went

In I went

Here's the kovil

Here’s the kovil

Not many around

Not many around

His parents were adamant he poses like this

His parents were adamant he poses like this

Afterwards, I started walking towards the jetty and got on board the same ferry I came in. the ride was without an incident and we arrived at Kurikkattuvan about 9.30am, still the whole day ahead of me. Here are the pictures and I’ll tell you about the rest later.

Heading back to the jetty

Heading back to the jetty

Nagadeepa Temple entrance in the distance

Nagadeepa Temple entrance in the distance

The tiny boat you saw while coming to the temple earlier offers this service

The tiny boat you saw while coming to the temple earlier offers this service

Resting for the day

Resting for the day

Some are being repaired

Some are being repaired

Looks abandoned but very much in use

Looks abandoned but very much in use

The hospital boat

The hospital boat

That gorgeous flag

That gorgeous flag

One of the better ferries but was not operating that day

One of the better ferries but was not operating that day

Nagadeepa entrance zoomed in

Nagadeepa entrance zoomed in

Ready to berth

Ready to berth

Not very old boy

Not very old boy

This is our ferry,  look at those red flowers on it

This is our ferry, look at those red flowers on it

Leaving them behind

Leaving them behind

Giving balance of Rs. 20/-

Giving balance of Rs. 20/-

Ready to get onto the Kurikkattuvan

Ready to get onto the Kurikkattuvan

The RDA Ferry

The RDA Ferry

I reached Jaffna and went around seeing many other things but you already saw them in my Jaffna Chapter 1 report. So I won’t bore you with that stuff. The next day is reserved for more island touring but I was in two minds whether to go ahead with that or not. There was so much doubt lingering and I kept wondering whether to postpone it for another day so that I’ll have more planning time but Paval, one of my working mates in Jaffna came to my rescue and promised to join me.

That sealed the journey and we fixed another tuk-tuk to go on the journey. It’s gonna be one heck of a ride so be ready till I come tomorrow.

Day 02

Good morning everyone, how are you doing? Tell me you wanna go rock ‘n’ roll with me coz that’s exactly what we’re gonna do today. I got up around 5.30am and got things ready and Paval came in the tuk-tuk around 6.30am and away we went like birds out of a cage. The morning was nice and crisp. We drove along the Kayts Road which is under construction but a lot of it had already finished. The lagoon air kept kissing us all over very lovingly and we passed the Velanai (Nagadeepa) turn off which I went the other day by bus. You can easily get to Kayts by bus as there are a lot of them available from Jaffna every half hour or so. However I took the three-wheeler as I had many other plans too. Ok, let’s make a move.

Flamingoes

I’m not expert when it comes to birds; well I’m not even a novice, far below. However despite my poor knowledge, I still love to see them. I’ve managed to learn a few names of the birds but don’t think will ever be able to manage like Dhana who’s got a birds’ dictionary stored in his brain. Thanks to the Udawalawe trip, I saw quite a lot of Eagles and now recognize them should I happen to come across any of them again. Among all the birds I simply love Flamingoes with long legs, pinkish feathers and tall bodies. They roam the waters in large flocks and can be found along causeways in Mannar and Jaffna.

I’ve always wanted to see them but never got the chance. However during my visit to Baththalangunduwa and Mannar, we saw some of them along the Mannar causeway, but so far out only a faint line was visible. As we got closer to Kayts all of a sudden I saw a pinkish thing to the right among the water and looking closer found it to be a flock of flamingoes. I got down the tuk-tuk and slowly crept along the grassy patch towards the lagoon so as not to disturb them. Nevertheless they sensed my approach and very gently started moving away deep into the lagoon. Finally they had enough of me and slowly flew away leaving me looking up and feeling sad.

I managed to take a few pictures at the extreme zoom and wished I had one of those mega zoom cameras. However, what I managed to take satisfied my crave for the flamingoes somewhat but at the same time it doubled my yearning to see them more and more. Here are some pictures and see if you like them.

There those beautiful ones

There those beautiful ones

Oh my gosh

Oh my gosh

Closer view

Closer view

Just taking off

Just taking off

Here goes

Here goes

Closer

Closer

Shadows

Shadows

Kayts Ferry Point

We then arrived at the Kayts Ferry Port where it connects to the Karainagar via a ferry service. It’s run from morning to evening (every hour or so) but I couldn’t get the exact time table. Just note that there’s no service during the lunch time say from 12noon till about 2pm. What’s really fascinating is you can see the Fort Hammenhiel from the ferry port. It looked absolutely breath-taking in the middle of the sea and very much imposing. Fort Hammenhiel restaurant could also be seen from there. Here are some pictures while we travel to the Kayts Jetty where it connects the two islands, Eluvathivu and Analaithivu via another ferry service.

Just bear in mind that the ferry to Karainagar and back doesn’t take any vehicles due to the poor condition of the ferry. Only exception is motor bikes and bicycles. We had to take a long detour as a result.

Here's the ferry port at Kayts

Here’s the ferry port at Kayts

Those are captured ones from illegal stinking Indian fishermen

Those are captured ones from illegal stinking Indian fishermen

Closer look

Closer look

There's the ferry at Karainagar pier

There’s the ferry at Karainagar pier

One of those loners

One of those loners

Another but smaller

Another but smaller

What's that?

What’s that?

The mighty Fort Hammenhiel

The mighty Fort Hammenhiel

The restaurant

The restaurant

Eluvathivu Island

We arrived at the Kayts Jetty which is about 2km from the Ferry Port around 8.30am. However, just before the jetty, we were warmly welcomed by an Indian Roller that looked gorgeous in the morning sunlight with its royal blue feathers. I spent good 10mins talking to him and getting him to pose for the pictures. Finally we arrived at the jetty. There were two ferries already with people in them and we ran towards them checking the departure times and which was going to which island. Thankfully I had Paval and the tuk-tuk driver who could converse in Tamil. I’ll give you the ferry times for both the islands so that it’d make matters easy should you ever make up your mind about visiting these islands. If you wanna go by public transport, the Kayts buses go to the Jetty at regular intervals especially depending on the departure and arrival times.

  • The ferries leave Kayts Jetty at 9am to both Eluvathivu and Analaithivu. It’s better nevertheless for you to be there by 8.30am.
  • Eluvathivu is located closer to the Jetty than the Analaithivu.
  • The return Ferry from Eluvathivu is at 11.30am and there’s more than one ferry operating between Kayts and Eluvathivu but I couldn’t get the other times.
  • Apparently there’s one ferry operating between Analaithivu and Kayts. The return ferry from Analaithivu is at 3pm. However we were told that there’s a ferry leaving from Kayts to Analaithivu at 12.30pm as well.
  • The ferry time to Eluvathivu is about half an hour and to Analaithivu is about one hour.
  • It costs Rs. 25/- one-way to reach Eluvathivu in the ferry.

Ok, hopefully you’ll find the above information helpful. We were in a dilemma whether to go to Analaithivu or Eluvathivu. As the return ferry from Analaithivu is at 3pm, we decided to go to Eluvathivu first and depending on the time and energy levels, to take the 12.30pm ferry to Analaithivu so that we could return by the 3pm ferry. I also wanted to go to Fort Hammenhiel but it looked such a toll order and I knew I would have to sacrifice one or the other. Finally we got into the Eluvathivu ferry and settled on the roof so that we could get a good view.

Both ferries launched simultaneously but the Analaithivu one went faster than ours coz it had so much distance to cover. The sea was rougher than usual and we got splashed by the stray salt water and I had trouble keeping my camera out of the way. Here are some pictures for you to look at till I get onto the island.

Hi!

Hi!

"Oh it's you!"

“Oh it’s you!”

"I've got to scratch"

“I’ve got to scratch”

Well, see yah

Well, see yah

Here we are

Here we are

This was one of the ferries

This was one of the ferries

Read the name. That had come from Galle and taking a break here

Read the name. That had come from Galle and taking a break here

Ready to go

Ready to go

One of the loners hard at work

One of the loners hard at work

Inside our ferry before anyone came in

Inside our ferry before anyone came in

Engine

Engine

There goes Analaithivu ferry overtaking us

There goes Analaithivu ferry overtaking us

Here's ours

Here’s ours

There's Eluvathivu

There’s Eluvathivu

Getting closer

Getting closer

Almost there

Almost there

Time to go explore

Time to go explore

We reached the island around 9.30am were helped by a boy who had come to the jetty on a bicycle. Later we found out he was the one who runs a shop at Eluvathivu and he’d come to pick up the bread which is delivered daily all the way from Jaffna by bus and then on the ferry. Even though they take such a long journey, the price is only Rs. 10/- more than what it is in Jaffna.

As usual there’s a small navy contingent based on the island and will take down the details of any visitors to the island. So make sure you carry some sort of identification with you, preferably the NIC. I’ve got a few facts about the Eluvathivu Island down below and it might help you get an idea about the island and its people.

  • Selvan (0778-996717) is the boy who has a land master should you wanna take an island tour. He takes Rs. 500/- and worth the journey even though it’s a very short one.
  • If you want to spend a night at the island, Selvan will help you stay at the church but will have to ask permission from the navy first.
  • There are about 170 families living in the island which means about 500 people.
  • There’s a small government run hospital on the island but for serious cases they have to go to Karainagar and navy does a grand job helping those people.
  • There’s electricity in the island powered by 3 small diesel-powered generators (2 – 100kv and 1 – 28kv). They are run one 100kv each for day and night. Shasheedharan is the guardian of the power plant.
  • There are no snakes in the island.

We got talking to Selvan (thanks to Ashan and Amila’s first visit) and he came in with his land master. We gave our ID numbers, names and contact numbers to the Navy officials and went away. There was no one about and we stopped at the shop (I told you about the owner who came to pick up his bread) and had some snacks. He runs the shop with his wife. Afterwards, we drove on passing the hospital and arrived at some jungle patch beyond a few houses. Our tuk-tuk driver asked in Tamil if there was any Palmyra toddy available and Selvan duly obliged by stopping at one house.

There were two men who were having a chat and seeing that they got visitors they came out to chat with us. Unfortunately the morning quota of the toddy was finished except for a tiny amount which they served us in a tiny glass. I took a sip and it was very much like the Kithul toddy. Afterwards they offered us Nongu which is the Palmyra version of our King Coconut. One person climbed to one of the nearby trees and plucked nearly a dozen or so and gave us. Paval was crazy about Nongu and kept at getting as much of them down his throat as possible.

It has three tiny holes about the size of a 2-rupee coin and about 2 inches deep. There’s a fleshy inner cover and very little juice. You gotta use your fingers to get the flesh out after drinking the juice which is very little. This doesn’t even come closer to King Coconut or Kurumba but for those people who can’t have them, this is really good. After thanking and giving them some money for all the trouble, we bid our farewell to them.

Afterwards, we drove back towards the jetty and reported to the navy personnel of our getting back safely. Then we waited for the ferry and right on time, we got on board and said goodbye to this wonderful place. There was a group of surveyors who had come to do some surveying and they too joined us in the ferry ride back to Kayts. Most of us fell asleep for a while due to the heat and the constant swaying of the boat. We arrived at the jetty just before noon and contemplated about our options. While we decide what to do, you guys enjoy these rare pictures.

Boat stop

Boat stop

Paval doing the talking

Paval doing the talking

Here's our land master

Here’s our land master

Getting it to safety

Getting it to safety

Isolated

Isolated

The best resting place on the whole island

The best resting place on the whole island

Ready to go

Ready to go

The church I told you about

The church I told you about

The shop

The shop

Lonely road

Lonely road

The hospital is nearby

The hospital is nearby

Here it is

Here it is

All around it's Palmyra

All around it’s Palmyra

Power house

Power house

Inside

Inside

100kv one

100kv one

This is the 28kv one

This is the 28kv one

Main board

Main board

Shasheedharan the keeper of the place

Shasheedharan the keeper of the place

Entering the other side

Entering the other side

Here it is lonely

Here it is lonely

The household that treated us well

The household that treated us well

They were close by

They were close by

Typical Palmyra branch fences

Typical Palmyra branch fences

Ready to climb the tree

Ready to climb the tree

There he goes

There he goes

Hard work

Hard work

I was feeling giddy

I was feeling giddy

There he reached the target

There he reached the target

Got down

Got down

They're curious

They’re curious

Some of the fruit

Some of the fruit

Cutting it fine

Cutting it fine

Juicy and delicious

Juicy and delicious

My friend looked after them all

My friend looked after them all

Finished

Finished

They love the bark

They love the bark

Having a chat but my friend is still at it

Having a chat but my friend is still at it

Back to the coast

Back to the coast

Boats parked

Boats parked

They're working on them

They’re working on them

One of the fish drying places

One of the fish drying places

Almost in ruins

Almost in ruins

Back to the shady Nuga tree near the pier

Back to the shady Nuga tree near the pier

Time to go

Time to go

They are in better condition

They are in better condition

Here is one of the survey people

Here is one of the survey people

Others were in the far and this is a zoomed in pic

Others were in the far and this is a zoomed in pic

Through the structure at the jetty

Through the structure at the jetty

They came to the pier while we waited

They came to the pier while we waited

And had these on board

And had these on board

Ready to go

Ready to go

Oh hi

Oh hi

He's the boatman and waiting impatiently for the survey people

He’s the boatman and waiting impatiently for the survey people

Most of them fell asleep due to swaying

Most of them fell asleep due to swaying

Finally at Kayts

Finally at Kayts

Catch if you can

Catch if you can

Getting closer to the jetty

Getting closer to the jetty

Small navy detachment is here

Small navy detachment is here

Flamingoes Once Again

Paval looked seasick and complained that he’d had enough islands for one day so we decided to keep Analaithivu for another time and leave for Fort Hammenhiel straightaway. Having started our journey once again and we reached the Kayts Ferry Port hoping to catch a ferry to Karainagar but there was nothing till 2.15pm so decided to take the long detour and reach Karainagar by the tuk-tuk itself. On our way where we saw flamingoes in the morning, there was another group idling away and I jumped and went slowly towards them trying to hide myself behind the thorny bushes. I managed to take a few decent shots but they kept going away sensing my probing eyes and finally took to the sky shouting at me for disturbing their afternoon siesta. Here are some pictures.

Here they are once again

Here they are once again

Sunbathing

Sunbathing

Very vigilant

Very vigilant

Going away from me

Going away from me

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Fort Hammenhiel Restaurant

We drove along the Jaffna-Karainagar road and passed yet another long causeway before arriving on the Karainagar Island. We passed many sesame cultivations and the farmers were harvesting them. We saw quite a few birds as well. Driving along the causeway, we noticed that there were huts placed on sticks in the lagoon resembling the paddy fields and chena cultivation in the down south. The heat was getting on our nerves but the breeze along the causeway restored our sanity back. Here are some pictures.

Sesame fields

Sesame fields

Macro of one of the branch

Macro of one of the branch

They just flew away as I tried to picture them

They just flew away as I tried to picture them

Just got him

Just got him

Welcome to Karainagar

Welcome to Karainagar

Near the start of the causeway

Near the start of the causeway

Those houses I told you about

Those houses I told you about

Closer look

Closer look

Oh

Oh

Beautiful ain't he?

Beautiful ain’t he?

Typical crane

Typical crane

Very thorough in his search

Very thorough in his search

Cat walk on the lagoon

Cat walk on the lagoon

Empty road bordered by the lagoon

Empty road bordered by the lagoon

The ferry port from Karainagar side

The ferry port from Karainagar side

We arrived at the Fort Hammenhiel restaurant which is located closer to the SLNS Elara at Karainagar. Anyone can go to the restaurant for a meal but will have to obtain a pass from the navy officer at the gate. We arrived at the restaurant and the first impression was a big wow. There was a small group of people already having lunch and we too joined them. Taking a seat outside the air-conditioned hall and we ordered our lunch. Don’t worry I’m not gonna show the pictures of the food as you saw them in the Jaffna 1 report.

While they got the meals ready, we roamed around but my heart was broken when they refused to let us go to the island. The Fort Hammenhiel was looking majestic in the middle of the sea about half a km from the restaurant but we were denied access claiming only the people with bookings could go there. I felt so frustrated and nothing will change their minds. Finally, we had to satisfy ourselves with the pictures taken from the jetty.

After a many pictures and vowing myself that I’d be back again, we sat down to enjoy our lunch which was delicious. While we eat, would you care to see some of those gorgeous pictures?

There it is

There it is

Closer look

Closer look

At the front

At the front

Typical navy style

Typical navy style

Inside

Inside

Again navy hallmarks all over

Again navy hallmarks all over

Reception desk

Reception desk

Just a replica

Just a replica

Artist's version of Fort Hammenhiel

Artist’s version of Fort Hammenhiel

Sailing ship replica

Sailing ship replica

Looking out through the entrance we came in

Looking out through the entrance we came in

Out in the open

Out in the open

There's the fort

There’s the fort

Closer look

Closer look

Left most part

Left most part

And the right

And the right

Wish I could go there

Wish I could go there

Restaurant

Restaurant

Hope lunch is ready

Hope lunch is ready

Where we sat

Where we sat

A/C dining area inside

A/C dining area inside

The tables along the corridor

The tables along the corridor

Don't know if they are being used

Don’t know if they are being used

One final look at with a heavy heart

One final look at with a heavy heart

Vesak celebrations at the restaurant

Vesak celebrations at the restaurant

Leaving

Leaving

We took our leave with heavy hearts and drove back on the same road after returning the pass to the navy soldier at the gate. On the way, we were greeted by yet another Indian Roller. He kind of wanted to soothe our wounded hearts and told us not to worry. Such a beautiful creature he was.

Just look at this

Just look at this

Beautiful colors

Beautiful colors

Portrait

Portrait

Curious look

Curious look

Karainagar Light House

Still I felt pretty bad of not letting us see the fort. This is when our tuk-tuk driver, Balasubramaniam, cheered us by asking if we wanted to see the light house in Karainagar. I’d never heard about a light house at Karainagar so was very much keen on going and seeing it. I’d covered the other light houses in the northern peninsula such as KKS and Point Pedro and wouldn’t dream of missing this one. Ok, this is located at the north-west edge of Karainagar Island.

To make it easy for you to understand the location, just remember the location of Casurina Beach. If you’ve been there, it’d be pretty easy. When you reach the Casurina Beach, facing the sea, look to your left and in the far with a tiny piece of land jutting out of the main island, you’ll see a light house. The distance is about 1.5-2km. However, you can’t walk along the beach and get to the light house because there’s a navy camp in between and they won’t let you go beyond them.

Go towards the Karainagar Depot and about 1km before the depot, about 2-3km before the Fort Hammenhiel turn-off, there’s a junction and you can get the directions from them. You need to take a right turn when going from Jaffna and it’s another 2km along winding roads to the light house. I’m extremely sorry that I can’t give you better directions and I should’ve pin-pointed the GPS location but in my highly excited moments, I completely forgot about it. Hopefully, you won’t miss this.

We arrived at the place thanks to Balasubramaniam but guess what, some of the villagers who were living about 1km from the light house didn’t know its existence. Thanks to Paval and Bala who could speak Tamil, we managed to reach the light house without further delay. Unlike the other light houses, this one wasn’t inside a navy base so you could enjoy the surrounding peacefully. However, don’t try to climb to the top as the railings were very rusty and on the verge of breaking down. We even so ruins of an old building but couldn’t make out what it really was. It was located right by the base of the light house. The navy camp was about half a km from the light house towards Casurina Beach and we were uninterrupted.

The sun was setting but not at the last bit so there was plenty of light still remaining. The sky had the typical royal blue and with a few of those stray clouds. I won’t waste any more time but will let you enjoy the scenery. Here we go:

Oh my gosh

Oh my gosh

Navy camp to the right

Navy camp to the right

We stopped the tuk-tuk and started walking

We stopped the tuk-tuk and started walking

Closer

Closer

Rusty and decaying top

Rusty and decaying top

At the base

At the base

The structure I told you about

The structure I told you about

Closer look

Closer look

Inside

Inside

Some more

Some more

Must've been the fire place

Must’ve been the fire place

The chunky base

The chunky base

Built in 1916

Built in 1916

Inside

Inside

Dangerous to climb up

Dangerous to climb up

The zoomed in view of the lamp room

The zoomed in view of the lamp room

Love the color of the sky

Love the color of the sky

Calm sea

Calm sea

Time to go

Time to go

Casurina Beach

Having fascinated our parched minds after the Fort Hammenhiel debacle, we started for Casurina Beach. The time was just after 4.30pm but the light was still very good. We drove towards the Casurina Beach. Paval wanted to have a bath but I’m no keen on bathing in the sea so let him get on with his swim and started strolling around the beach taking pictures. Karainagar Light House could be seen in the distance and I felt really happy that I was able to add it to my collection. I would’ve loved to stay till the sunset but there was plenty of time left and I had to get to Jaffna early so decided to leave it for another day. Here are the pictures of the Casurina Beach. We’re getting closer to the end of this journey so enjoy them.

Here we are

Here we are

Anchor

Anchor

They do tours I assume

They do tours I assume

Some Cyprus trees

Some Cyprus trees

Playtime

Playtime

Mummified looking

Mummified looking

What's that?

What’s that?

A hut used by the police

A hut used by the police

Miles along the beach

Miles along the beach

Resting

Resting

Life on the sand

Life on the sand

Picnic points

Picnic points

On the beach

On the beach

Tiny crabs are responsible for this creation

Tiny crabs are responsible for this creation

Not grapes

Not grapes

Do you see anything?

Do you see anything?

What about now?

What about now?

Time we went home

Time we went home

Karainagar Shivam Kovil

We left Casurina Beach and upon Paval’s request decided to visit the famous Shivam Kovil nearby. It’s about 1.5km from Casurina Beach and has a lot of history behind it. They believe its history goes as far as the Chidambaram Temple in Tamil Nadu. One of the slain MPs by the LTTE had been a big devotee of this temple. We went in and as usual had to take off the t-shirt before entering. There was nobody in sight except Paval and me. The Poosari came in and showed us the damaged roof and we donated some money for the kovil’s fund. Will share some of the pictures.

Had to come here

Had to come here

Front view

Front view

Closer look

Closer look

One of the statues at the entrance

One of the statues at the entrance

In I went after Paval

In I went after Paval

The ancient kovil inside

The ancient kovil inside

Reminds of those in Polonnaruwa

Reminds of those in Polonnaruwa

Another look

Another look

Anaikoddai Fish Market

We started driving back towards Jaffna and on the way saw the sun setting behind us. I wish I’d stayed at Casurina beach by then but what to do. We reached Anaikoddai and found a lot of people gathered along the road. Bala said it was the fish market at Anaikoddai. What happens is these fishermen go fishing during the day time, especially in the lagoon and bring their catch to be sold here. It’s not a mega fish market but about a dozen or so fishermen bring whatever they managed to catch during the day. They are very fresh and healthy and have a huge demand from the nearby villagers. Paval and Bala wanted to get some fish so we stopped.

The fishing harbor beyond looked gorgeous with the anchored vessels in the dusk while fishermen tried to attract the passers-by attention to sell their fish. There were many different kinds of fish but I could recognize Prawns, Cuttlefish and Crabs. I’m sure you would like to see the pictures and here they are.

Anicut

Anicut

See the circular wall

See the circular wall

Freshly caught cuttlefish

Freshly caught cuttlefish

And prawns too

And prawns too

Jumbo crab

Jumbo crab

Some more

Some more

Waiting for buyers

Waiting for buyers

Different kinds

Different kinds

Boats parked in the dusk

Boats parked in the dusk

Sun had started his descent

Sun had started his descent

Had to use flash

Had to use flash

Like a leopard

Like a leopard

They are only for cutting

They are only for cutting

Setting sun over the lagoon

Setting sun over the lagoon

Good bye Jaffna and will be back again for more

Good bye Jaffna and will be back again for more

Well, I guess that’s about it folks. Hope you enjoyed the Chapter 3 as much as the first two chapters. I tried to cover everything but surely I must’ve missed quite a lot, notably the Analaithivu Island and Fort Hammenhiel. However, I’ll be revisiting the Jaffna Peninsula and cover them and bring the experience to you. This turned out to be a grandeur experience in Jaffna.

I must say thanks to my colleagues in Jaffna and everyone else who helped me visit these wonderful places. Not forgetting the security forces who still sacrifice their lives for the safety of us and our country. Without them, I can’t even begin to think about where we would’ve been. So thank you all! Also, those who laid their lives for the sovereignty and territorial integrity of our country are and will be remembered forever. May you all attain Nibbana! They lost their lives, limbs, etc. for our freedom and future. My heartfelt gratitude also extends to their families for parting with their loved ones for us.

Finally, this 100-report long journey wouldn’t have come by without the help and support of my dear friends. Starting with Mithila for starting this wonderful place for us to share our experience and create awareness among the general public of preserving the Mother Nature. Then my very close friends (namely Thadi Hariya, Ana, Atha, Uncle Tony, Sheham, Prasa, Dhana, Prince, Wumi, Ashan, Niro, NG, Sanketha, Amila etc.) for being great travel companions. Further to all my, how can I say it, support staff maybe such as Nava Mama (Meemure), Morgan (Great Western), Daya & Tissa (Ritigala), Sunimal (Gange Wadiya), Nimal (Kudawa), Ranjith (Bambarakanda), etc. for helping me reach my goal safely. Thank you all from the bottom of my heart!

Well, this is Sri signing off for now but will come on and off in the future. I’m trying to take a break from this intense report writing (definitely not from travelling) and take it easy in the future.

Best regards and keep travelling!

Sri…

 

Ups & Downs – Ohiya to Bambarakanda…

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Year and Month Jun, 2015
Number of Days 2
Crew Ana, Atha, Prasa, D and Me
Accommodation Bambarakanda Rest
Transport By Train, on foot and by Van
Activities Hiking, Photography, Relaxing, etc…
Weather Excellent (Gloomy towards the evening)
Route Colombo->Ohiya by Night Mail.

Ohiya->Bambarakanda on foot.

Bambarakanda->Ohiya by Van.

Ohiya->Colombo by Train.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Bambarakanda Rest is the ideal place for accommodation and costs Rs. 2500/- per person full board a day.
  • Booking of the Night Mail (Berths) and First Class (AC Coach) needs to be done as early as possible. Now you can do the bookings within 45 days.
  • It’s Rs. 1250/- per person both Sleeping Berths and 1st Class AC Tickets.
  • It’s about 14km altogether from Ohiya to Bambarakanda.
  • It took us 7 hours to walk from Ohiya to Bambarakanda including breaks.
  • Even though a part of the road from Kalupahana towards Udaweriya is in good condition (about first 6km), the rest is in very bad condition.
  • Take water and other snacks as required.
  • Gamini’s shop at Ohiya opens around 5.30am if you plan to have a coffee or some breakfast.
  • Don’t carry heavy backpacks.
  • Please help protect the nature and don’t dump any garbage on the way.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya! Hope you guys getting on nicely. After the 100th trip report, I kinda wanted to take a break from writing and just reflect on the road I’d come. However when I realized that there was another hike coming up, I had to forget about the break and wear my writing pants once again. This time it was another of my long-awaited hikes and one of the mile-long list of things in my to-do-list.

I’d always wanted to hike from Ohiya to Bambarakanda. Even during my first ever visit to Bambarakanda, I attempted to do it the reverse order but had to cut it out just before the Devil’s Staircase. When Ana suggested we do the hike from Ohiya, I couldn’t wait for it. Doctor D managed to get the last 5 tickets of the 12 sleeping births and we all got together at the Fort Station around 7pm. While the most of the people coming into the station were intent on getting home, we just idled around waiting for the train. It was good to be back again together and I felt like in one of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five stories.

I’d booked the Bambarakanda Rest before setting off and Mrs. Mayakaduwa, the owner, sounded delighted to hear that we were coming. I hope you guys remember our previous journey around Bambarakanda in 2014 where we had a marathon waterfall hunt. This time the rains were very awkward and never looked falling according to a pattern making it really hard to plan for a waterfall hunt. Bambarakanda sounded really cool and soothing after my long Jaffna tour amid unforgiving sun.

Finally the train came to the platform and we got on board. The tiny cubicles with bunk beds were hardly enough for two people to move about but were adequate for our purpose. After a light meal, we settled down in one cubicle and had a chat. It was a very hot evening and we felt as if inside a furnace. Fortunately as the train started moving things got better. Finally we all settled in our beds hoping to catch some sleep but nobody did get more than a couple of hours of sleep due to the roar of the train and the constant uneven moving. It was nevertheless so much better than the seats. Finally after what felt like a long night we reached Pattipola and waited for the two German ladies to get together in the front. You like to see a few pictures of the cabins while they do? Well, I’m always willing to co-operate.

Very old notice... Rs. 20/- fine

Very old notice… Rs. 20/- fine

Tiny cubicle with bunk beds

Tiny cubicle with bunk beds

Upper one

Upper one

Hardly enough space for Ana

Hardly enough space for Ana

Narrow corridor, dimly lit

Narrow corridor, dimly lit

With flash

With flash

Day 01

We arrived at the Ohiya station right on time around 4.40am. Surprisingly it wasn’t that cold. I remembered how we shivered like fur-less polar bears before we started the rail hike from Ohiya to Pattipola. The station master was very friendly and even offered us some tea but we had our portable cooker with us. Ana and Prasa as usual got the things going and within no time, we were sipping on hot coffee. The winds made us shiver slightly from time to time but it wasn’t unbearable. After the washing and brushing we were ready to hit the road but not before the inevitable photo shoot. We had brought sandwiches so didn’t have to wait for Gamini to open his shop in front of the station. Just after 5.30am while it was still pretty dark, we started our hike with torches. It was tough going with the laden backpacks. So until we get used to the weight, you guys enjoy these pictures.

Here we are

Here we are

Portable cooker

Portable cooker

There they making coffee

There they making coffee

Posing

Posing

The group

The group

We walked in the dark feeling the chill of the mountain air. Except for the dogs, everyone seemed to be asleep. One of the dogs took a fancy to us and started following us probably thinking we were going to the Horton Plains. Probably he might have even smelt the egg sandwiches we were carrying. The light started to chase the darkness away. The morning sun rays filtered through the woods lifting the mist hung over the trees.

There was just one vehicle coming from the Horton Plains and we were wondering what they were up to. After about 40 mins, we reached the turn off to the Udaveriya Estate road that runs through the Devil’s Staircase. There is a big sign board so you can’t miss the turn. We were going uphill from the station to this place along the road and it looked to get steeper towards the Horton Plains. The doggy thinking we were going to the Horton Plains kept going up while we took a break and unwrapped the delicious egg and potato sandwiches, another of Ana’s experiments.

However the doggy didn’t approve of the brown bread and flatly refused to eat anything. After a short break and more than half the sandwiches gone we decided to hurry as there was so much to cover. The surrounding was fully lighted so we wanted to cover the open area before the Devil’s Staircase before it got really hot and uncomfortable. So while we get ready, you look at some of the pictures up to now.

In the dark

In the dark

Sun was still sleeping

Sun was still sleeping

The bend where Udaveriya turn off is

The bend where Udaveriya turn off is

Here it is

Here it is

Found a new scarf

Found a new scarf

The friendly dog that followed us

The friendly dog that followed us

The team (Pic by Ana)

The team (Pic by Ana)

We walked for about three quarters of a km before coming to the open terrain. The view was simply amazing as the Gon Molliya Range rose to our right and the thick tree cover of the Horton Plains was also visible. I remembered the happy moments we had during our stay at Nagrak which was beyond the Gon Molliya and Balathuduwa. We could see the Udaveriya estate houses and the two abandoned factories below.

One of those factories is the one you can see while traveling along A4 between Belihul Oya and Kalupahana so far up you would wonder how on earth they built it up there. Walking along the road and at times taking short cuts through the tea bushes felt very nice. Around 8.30, we arrived at the factories and stopped for a few more pictures before heading further. Well here are some to satisfy your curiosity.

Sensational, weren’t they? Let’s move on coz sun is getting het up. We made some Jeevani to help us fight against the dehydration. There was a boy who walked behind us telling us about the surrounding in Tamil. Even though we understood most of what he said there was very little we could reply in return. The funny thing was in his excited speech the boy pointed towards the Horton Plains and exclaimed “Ande, Singam Irikka” which meant there are Lions (no mistake there) in that area which is the forest belonging to Horton Plains.

His face showed the terror as he said that. We all started laughing as he said that and he looked scornfully at us. Doctor D sensing his discomfort soothed him and corrected him saying “Singam Illei, Puli Irikku” which means there is no Lion but Leopard. He shook his head vehemently and insisted that it was the Singam aka Lion not the Puli aka Leopard. Apparently he didn’t even know the word ‘Puli’. Anyhow we all had a good laugh at his expense. He turned to his house after a while waving at us and we kept going.

The going got tougher but as the saying goes “When the going gets tough, the tough get going”, we didn’t feel disheartened by the difficulty. Finally we came to the stretch that is famously known as the Devil’s Staircase. It’s the sheer difficulty of the road that must have got this name. We saw two Mitsubishi Delica vans which are great workhorses. In Sri Lanka, we refer to this particular vehicle as JR Model, Rukmani Model, etc. I’m sure old Tony would give a better explanation in the comments.

It’s a real surprise how that model goes on this road coz it’s being used as the mode of transportation by the people living in the area. Similarly there are two other vans in Meemure but made by Isuzu. We passed the Devil’s Staircase and started to get to the tarred area just before the Udaveriya Estate sign board. It took a heavy toll on our legs and bodies to get up to this place. We all took a much needed break and the shade offered by the trees bordering either side of the road. This is where I reached in my very first visit. Before we go any further, take the time to see the pictures up to now. Then let’s go downhill.

The sun woke up

The sun woke up

Beautiful

Beautiful

Signs of landslides

Signs of landslides

First glimpse of Gon Molliya and Balathuduwa

First glimpse of Gon Molliya and Balathuduwa

Closer view

Closer view

Wow

Wow

The valley below

The valley below

What's that?

What’s that?

A church

A church

One of the two factories, this is the one seen from A4

One of the two factories, this is the one seen from A4

The road in better condition compared to the downhill

The road in better condition compared to the downhill

16th km post

16th km post

There they go

There they go

Not ours

Not ours

A real workhorse

A real workhorse

Waiting for us

Waiting for us

Took a short cut here through the estate

Took a short cut here through the estate

The factory we saw

The factory we saw

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Gon Molliya kept us company all the way

Gon Molliya kept us company all the way

Finally at one of them

Finally at one of them

Abandoned

Abandoned

Must've been real busy then

Must’ve been real busy then

Through the factory windows

Through the factory windows

Out in the open

Out in the open

Ploughed

Ploughed

Sowed

Sowed

Another short cut

Another short cut

Ready for planting

Ready for planting

No GPS

No GPS

Two lane concrete

Two lane concrete

The one seen from A4

The one seen from A4

The Singam boy

The Singam boy

One of SD bungalows

One of SD bungalows

Oh hi!

Oh hi!

Like beans

Like beans

Now the terrible road and towards Devil's Staircase

Now the terrible road and towards Devil’s Staircase

Walawe basin faraway

Walawe basin faraway

The road is to the right of this

The road is to the right of this

Terrible is not the word

Terrible is not the word

One of those tiny bridges

One of those tiny bridges

Another reliable Delica

Another reliable Delica

Martin Air part II?

Martin Air part II?

No rest for us

No rest for us

Last bit of Devil's staircase

Last bit of Devil’s staircase

Now it was the typical estate road through Udaveriya and Yahalathenna estates. The team was exhausted but kept going. Mobile reception is terrible and the clouds appeared from the HP making us wary of the rain. Eventually we arrived at the point where we reached the Udaveriya road after the last Waterfall Hunt.

Passing on, we then reached the turn to the top of Bambarakanda Ella. Last time we had a nightmarish walk downtown in the heavy rains and over slippery pine needles and loose rocks. Afterwards we crossed the stream that feeds the Bambarakanda Ella. Finally we arrived at the famous V Cut and took another break. Up to the stream that feeds Bambarakanda Ella, they have laid 1/4 rocks as the foundation before finishing with the interlocking stones. About 500m towards the Bambarakanda Rest from the V cut, the road is completed and in good condition. Ok, the pictures up to that point will help you digest the journey better.

Selfie time

Selfie time

Tired but with a smile

Tired but with a smile

Beautiful

Beautiful

17kg pack and falling asleep

17kg pack and falling asleep

Tiny cascade along the road

Tiny cascade along the road

The group except D

The group except D

Towards Kalupahana we went

Towards Kalupahana we went

Thankfully it was shady

Thankfully it was shady

Yellow

Yellow

Winding path

Winding path

More to go

More to go

Tamil Vidyalam now abandoned

Tamil Vidyalam now abandoned

Another of Delica

Another of Delica

As strong as an ox

As strong as an ox

Mist in the distance

Mist in the distance

They kept roaming around

They kept roaming around

The mist blocked the sun

The mist blocked the sun

7X7 Walk aka Hathe Hatha Wedila

7X7 Walk aka Hathe Hatha Wedila

Mist chasing us from HP

Mist chasing us from HP

The small estate line houses

The small estate line houses

Zoomed

Zoomed

Now more familiar terrain

Now more familiar terrain

Hiya

Hiya

Exhausted

Exhausted

Where the Bambarakanda Falls feeding stream crosses the road

Where the Bambarakanda Falls feeding stream crosses the road

There it is

There it is

Good for a cool dip but didn't want to

Good for a cool dip but didn’t want to

The V cut is just ahead

The V cut is just ahead

There it is

There it is

The team

The team

More to go

More to go

All the time it was walking on the uneven road but finally this well finished section brought some smiles to our battered feet. We got to the Bambarakanda Rest in one piece around 12.15pm after 7hrs of walking and were welcomed by Mrs. Mayakaduwa. While the lunch was being served, we had a nice bath and let the tightened muscles unwind. There was a hint of rain in the air as well. After a hearty meal, we took a nap. The chill helped us settle more comfortably.

The evening was spent chatting about and recalling the day’s events. As usual we had an early dinner and hit the sack once again to rest our bodies more. Even though we had nothing planned for the following day, we wanted to get up early and enjoy the fresh mountain air and the sunrise. Ok folks, it’s time you too took a break and meet us tomorrow for the return journey. Good night!

Back on the move

Back on the move

Almost took a dive from here

Almost took a dive from here

Zooming in

Zooming in

There, the path to the entrance of Bambarakanda Ella

There, the path to the entrance of Bambarakanda Ella

Sharp bends

Sharp bends

Along the path

Along the path

First glimpse of the tallest lass in Sri Lanka

First glimpse of the tallest lass in Sri Lanka

Oh on the middle of the road

Oh on the middle of the road

Hi

Hi

Close up

Close up

She kept us company now

She kept us company now

Portrait

Portrait

Colorful one but no idea what he is

Colorful one but no idea what he is

Mist coming thick and fast

Mist coming thick and fast

Time to call it a day

Time to call it a day

Day 02

The morning dawned on the Bambarakanda Ella and the Gon Molliya range lighting up everything little by little. We got up and savored every second of this ritual. Last night’s rain had freshened the trees and shrubs making them greener than ever. A group of people had camped out on the open area between the Wangedigala and Balathuduwa. We could faintly make out their tent. It must have been a grand experience but the drizzle must have troubled them a little.

The view from the rest is something you can’t get enough of. We enjoyed our morning tea and had company of the two adorable dogs in the rest, Changumi and Ruby. Now don’t get worked up about their names. They were simply cute and we enjoyed their company as much as they enjoyed ours. The breakfast was then in the list of things for the morning. The van Mrs. Mayakaduwa had arranged for us to go to the station came right on time.

Finally it was time to bid farewell to the Bambarakanda and take our leave. Mrs. Mayakaduwa had made toast for us to take with us as well. We got in the vehicle and waved our hosts goodbye. The morning drive did us good and we could see the Udaveriya Tea Factory so far up in the mountains and wondered how on earth we got down even though it was along the road. Right while we head towards the station, you enjoy these pictures.

Good morning everyone!

Good morning everyone!

Still the mist hung to them

Still the mist hung to them

Sunlight coming

Sunlight coming

Over the rest

Over the rest

Balathuduwa full lighted

Balathuduwa full lighted

Color of love

Color of love

Macro

Macro

Another

Another

Time for a cup of tea

Time for a cup of tea

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Couldn't get enough of her

Couldn’t get enough of her

The range towards Balathuduwa

The range towards Balathuduwa

Wangedigala

Wangedigala

Another of those gorgeous pics

Another of those gorgeous pics

Closer look

Closer look

Gon Molliya

Gon Molliya

Balathuduwa zoomed

Balathuduwa zoomed

Wangedigala zoomed

Wangedigala zoomed

Not the one we saw yesterday

Not the one we saw yesterday

There's Changumi

There’s Changumi

Ruby on the left

Ruby on the left

Adorable

Adorable

The team with Mrs. Mayakaduwa (Pic by Ana)

The team with Mrs. Mayakaduwa (Pic by Ana)

Time to go (Pic by Ana)

Time to go (Pic by Ana)

We arrived at the station well ahead of time for the train and spent that time lazily lying on the benches. Out of nowhere a mist appeared and enveloping the whole area. I wish this had come when we were doing the rail hike from Haputale to Ohiya. The train arrived on time and we got to the first class carriage which was air-conditioned. The seats were big and comfortable just like inside an airliner. We settled in our seats and relaxed our weary bodies against the comfy cushions. Well enjoy this final set of pictures.

Entering the Haputale station

Entering the Haputale station

In we go

In we go

Poson celebrations at the station

Poson celebrations at the station

Old but reliable

Old but reliable

Made in Birmingham, England

Made in Birmingham, England

Haputale

Haputale

Signal

Signal

Mist coming our way

Mist coming our way

One of the quarters belonging to the railway department

One of the quarters belonging to the railway department

Yellow rose

Yellow rose

Bright orange

Bright orange

Pink too

Pink too

Dark pink

Dark pink

Thick mist

Thick mist

Coming through the fog

Coming through the fog

No sign of the train

No sign of the train

At last

At last

Baton change

Baton change

Interior of First Class

Interior of First Class

Feeling excited

Feeling excited

Where we walked along

Where we walked along

Misty Idalgashinna

Misty Idalgashinna

Guard room

Guard room

An angel watching cartoon

An angel watching cartoon

It says all

It says all

Selfie and see Ana asleep and the girl still enjoying Madagscar (top of the pic)

Selfie and see Ana asleep and the girl still enjoying Madagscar (top of the pic)

Well folks, what do you think? For me that was a great journey and a dream come true. Like to see a couple of Panos?

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Hope you enjoyed this 101st story and hopefully I will send some others in the future. However I might take a break from this intense writing as there are many new members nowadays who send some really good trip reports.

This is Sri signing off for now. See you later. Take care and keep traveling…

When the Going Gets Tough – The Tough Gets Going – Kurullangala…

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Year and Month 26-28 Jun, 2015
Number of Days 3
Crew Ana, Stefan, Shiyana, Gayani and Me
Accommodation Don Diogu Villa, Wellawaya

(055-2274713, 077-7366720)

dondiogu@sltnet.lk

mervynw@sltnet.lk

Transport By Car and on foot.
Activities Archaeology, Photography, Rock Climbing, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Malabe->Avissawella->Pelmadulla->Udawalawe->Thanamalwila->Wellawaya.

Wellawaya->Karandagolla->Rakkiththakanda Temple->Kurullangala->back to Wellawaya.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Please check the Tips and Tricks given in the report for details on preparation.
  • Don Diogu Villa is a very homely place about 2km from Wellwaya along Ella Road. The owners are very friendly and the food is delicious.
  • Meththananda (072-6108392) is a very good person and a guide. You can trust and depend on him entirely.
  • Chief Monk of the Rakkiththakanda Temple is very friendly and helpful. You can contact him for more details. Rev. Karandagolle Sugatharansi Thero 072-8473285, 077-7845527 & 071-7544664.
  • Please study this report and plan your journey as much as possible.
  • Thanks to Ashan for his report.
  • Check the Video Series here.
  • Check This Article in relation to the similarities of these paintings with Aboriginal ones in Australia.
  • Help protect the Mother Nature.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Someone asked one day what was I really liked to see. I had no hesitation answering that question. Waterfalls, I declared confidently. But, I added, I’m not that choosy when it comes to traveling. Almost everything from Waterfalls to Mountains to Archeology and Paintings is appealing to me. I’m very much a cosmopolitan traveler. When Ana said that he would be visiting Kurullangala, I readily agreed to join forces.

Kurullangala has been a very hot topic ever since it was discovered by the Swallows’ Nests Poachers. Afterwards one of the media group went and videoed the place rousing the curiosity of the nature lovers and environmentalists. As a result many people (well not as many as you think but a good number of them), including the archeological department, took the trouble to visit the place. If you still haven’t come across what Kurullangala is, lemme give you an overview.

Kurullangala

Kurullangala is located about 16km from Wellawaya on Ella Road (A23). From the 16/2 Bokkuwa, you have to turn left when coming from Wellawaya. This area is known as Karandagolla. There’s a big Tourism Ministry signage at the turn off saying “Rakkiththakanda Ancient Temple – 2km”. Another sign says that this is the Access Road to TBM where one of the Uma Oya Project Sites located. Follow this road and after about 2km, you will see another signage to the left, this time a small one saying “Rakkiththakanda RMV (Cave Temple), Karandagolla”. The temple is another 500m or so from here. The trail to the Kurullangala starts about 100m before this turn off. This is a huge pile of quarter inch rocks so you can’t miss it.

There is very little chance you can make it to the top of the rock to your right without a guide. The best and probably the only person is Meththananda (072-6108392), a local who knows the area like the back of his hand. The importance of the place is the pre-historic looking cave paintings. They believe these paintings are about 5000 years old but no evidence such as carbon dating, has been found to confirm this theory. As usual Ravana the Great is also included in these beliefs. There are three prominent rocks in and around Ella which are Kurullangala, Diyapeellangala & Kinihira. The paintings are located at 1135m (about 3800 ft) above the mean sea level. The trail to the cave paintings is about 3km in length and lies along a treacherous path through the thick forest. Kurullangala has inherited its name due to a couple of mysterious birds stay at the top of the rock. According to the folklore, these birds can’t be seen but heard. They appeared to be making a sound similar to that of Black Eagles.

You can contact the Rakkiththakanda Temple (Rev. Karandagolle Sugatharansi Thero) on 072-8473285, 077-7845527 & 071-7544664.—

Day 1

Ok, now we know what we’re going to see, let’s get back to the story at hand. This time there were three new faces added to my little travel group. Ana picked me up at 4am (a little late for our usual schedule) on the 26th morning and I said hi to the three new members. Stefan, (one of Ana’s very long term friend), Shiyana (Ana’s daughter) and Gayani (Shiyana’s friend) made our happy little traveling crew. It was Stefan who had this unquenchable thirst for Kurullangala Paintings and we got lucky to have been able to tag along. We planned our journey based on Ashan’s report which was one of the few sources available on Kurullangala.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Rakkiththakanda Ancient Cave Temple, Karandagolla.
  2. Kurullangala Cave Paintings, Karandagolla.

 We drove on while the sun was struggling to find his way up after a late night movie. We kept falling asleep while Ana concentrated on the road. Around 7.30am we reached Udawalawe and kept an eye out for Rambo the begging jumbo near the spill gates. He usually swims across the reservoir and stay all day long waiting for someone stupid enough to throw some delicacies on his way. If you have read my Udawalawe Report before, you must have seen how careless people are to try to feed a wild animal despite numerous warnings placed all along the dam. The road was all but isolated and Rambo wasn’t to be seen. However, as we neared the end of the dam, we happened to glance towards the tiny island in the reservoir. There in the middle of it was the culprit.

Rambo, apparently knowing that nobody was around yet, was feeding on the grass in the tiny island. It was a great sight to see an elephant on a tiny island amid the huge body of water. It looked as if Rambo used this as a transit camp in his long swim from the national park. We got down hurriedly while Ana went ahead to the parking lot. We were willing it to get into the water and start swimming coz it’d have been a super scene to photograph an elephant swim. Something I’m yet to experience with my own eyes. However, he didn’t give a toss about us and went on feeding his belly. Eventually sensing our prying eyes on him, he slowly went behind a tree and stayed partially hidden. Knowing he wouldn’t come out again anytime soon, we drove into a nearby hotel for some coffee. While we enjoy this morning cuppa coffee, you guys can see the pictures of Rambo on the Island.

Small island in the Udawalawe Reservoir

Small island in the Udawalawe Reservoir

Who's on it?

Who’s on it?

Rambo the Beggar

Rambo the Beggar

Any idea to swim?

Any idea to swim?

Road is fully isolated

Road is fully isolated

Gorgeous looking

Gorgeous looking

Three musketeers

Three musketeers

Look at the hair style

Look at the hair style

Very patient

Very patient

Spill gates

Spill gates

Here they are

Here they are

Info of Udawalawe Reservoir

Info of Udawalawe Reservoir

The coffee tasted sweet and warmed up up chasing the sleepiness away. We resumed our journey and arrived at Wellawaya closer to 10am. Our hotel was Don Diego located 2km from Wellawaya along Ella Road. It’s a nice little homely place where you can stay in comfort and peace. The two cooks can cook like a dream but I didn’t take pictures of our meals as they’d distract you unnecessarily. As soon as we got there, I took the trouble of taking a few pictures including the doggy residing in the house called Sarah. She’s a darling with huge paws but sadly blind in her left eye. The owners Mr. and Mrs. Mervyns welcomed us warmly. While we indulge in some fresh passion fruit juice, you can see some of the pictures of the hotel.

Elephant Trail Hotel where we had tea

Elephant Trail Hotel where we had tea

More than 4 decades of friendship

More than 4 decades of friendship

Solid furniture

Solid furniture

Painting I loved in the hotel

Painting I loved in the hotel

Sitting room

Sitting room

One of the bedrooms

One of the bedrooms

Bunch of them

Bunch of them

Huge one in the garden

Huge one in the garden

Close up

Close up

There's Sarah

There’s Sarah

Not interested in her lunch

Not interested in her lunch

Stef and Shiyana having a chat with the Owners (Pic by: Ana)

Stef and Shiyana having a chat with the Owners (Pic by: Ana)

After a bit of chit chat and a cold bath, we sat down for a delicious lunch followed by curd and treacle. Our initial plan was to do a recce on the temple and the trail head that day so that it’d be easy to find our way the following day. Feeling the weight of the lunch in our bellies, we decided to take a nap and then visit the temple in the evening. I’d already informed Meththa about our plans. Well I can feel two heavy lead blocks on my eye lids forcing them down. I’m gonna take a nap so you may follow suit if possible; otherwise just wait for me to get up. Ssshh, don’t make a noise, can’t you see I’m sleeping.

Rakkiththakanda Ancient Cave Temple

We got up around 3pm and after a cuppa tea drove to the Rakkiththakanda Ancient Cave Temple. It’s not difficult to find. We reached the temple and the chief monk was glad to see us. After telling us about the temple and its paintings, he took us over to the main image house where some beautiful paintings could be seen. They were from the Kandyan Era but apparently had a bit of English influence as well. There is a huge sleeping Buddha with a couple more Samadhi Buddha and Standing Buddha Statues. Additionally couple of statues of the gods can be found as well among the paintings.

Couple of examples is the British Court of Arms painted above the door frame as you enter the image house. There was another better looking one inside as well. Further, the paintings of the gods had crosses hanging from their necks. Interestingly there was a painting of an English Soldier on Horseback on the roof of the rocky cave. In addition to these, the paintings looked well preserved and in good condition. However, there was a painting with a date mentioned at the top saying “Year 1886”. Well, it might have been when these were painted or renovated. I guess those English influence must have been added to the paintings at that time. Unfortunately the paintings on outside wall are slowly fading away due to sun, rain and the winds.

The temple is a complex of many caves and apparently there is a tunnel too which connects to the Bogoda Temple in Hali Ela and the Dowa Templa in Bandarawela. You can see a small inscription above the entrance to this on the rock. This had been another of the many King Walagambha’s hiding places during his 14-year hidden preparations against the South Indian invaders. Well, he’s appeared to have been the most traveled king of all times (probably even more than Ravana the Great) in those 14 years.

The monk is trying to build a preaching hall for the temple so that the villagers can use it for the rituals such as Observing Sil, Poya Day Rituals, etc. He’d planned to obtain some support from the Uma Oya Project such as concrete and metal. However the Iranians sponsoring for the project are not in favor of helping Buddhist Temples thus leaving the construction of the hall stranded. After the protests of the villagers in and around Karandagolla, they had finally agreed, even though unwillingly, to give some of the materials needed for the temple. But it doesn’t quite fulfill the requirements so if you can, please help either with money or materials for the building. You can contact the chief monk on the numbers I’ve given above.

 However, just before we left the Chief Monk gave a short preach and we welcomed his ideas. Then he made a prediction that Ana and Stefan won’t get to the top of Kurullangala but Shiyana, Gayani and me. He said that there was a professor recently who had visited many places in Sri Lanka yet he couldn’t make it to the top. A valdi enough reason but little did he know about the determination and will of Ana and Stefan. I’m sure both of them decided to give it a better than their best shot just to prove this prediction was wrong. Let’s see if they can take on the challenge.

Well, I’ll leave you to take a look at the pictures while I call Meththa with the final instructions for tomorrow. It’s going to be a tough day so we have to get to the hotel soon and get a good night sleep.

The big signage I told you about

The big signage I told you about

And the other

And the other

This is the turn off after 2km on that road

This is the turn off after 2km on that road

View towards Wellawaya

View towards Wellawaya

On a clear day, you should be able to see a lot more than this

On a clear day, you should be able to see a lot more than this

Walking towards the image house… Note the formation of this rock

Walking towards the image house… Note the formation of this rock

The roof of that rock with the drip ledges

The roof of that rock with the drip ledges

Ana and Chief Monk going ahead

Ana and Chief Monk going ahead

Gorgeous colors

Gorgeous colors

The inscription and beyond this is the tunnel

The inscription and beyond this is the tunnel

Tiny bell

Tiny bell

This is where the image house is

This is where the image house is

Let's go up

Let’s go up

Small Dagoba

Small Dagoba

He's explaining about the temple and its paintings

He’s explaining about the temple and its paintings

The entrance

The entrance

See the Court of Arms?

See the Court of Arms?

Either side of the door, they're slowly peeling away

Either side of the door, they’re slowly peeling away

Some more

Some more

Large area

Large area

Inside and the main Buddha Statue covered with a glass wall

Inside and the main Buddha Statue covered with a glass wall

Took a close up

Took a close up

Old and huge

Old and huge

Samadhi posture

Samadhi posture

Standing statues

Standing statues

Chief monks in Buddha's era

Chief monks in Buddha’s era

Solosmasthana in paintings

Solosmasthana in paintings

Some more and note the monk in blue is Mugalan Thero

Some more and note the monk in blue is Mugalan Thero

Paintings of God Saman (left) and Kadawara

Paintings of God Saman (left) and Kadawara

Slowly peeling away

Slowly peeling away

These are statues of God Kataragama (left) and another. Note the crosses around their necks

These are statues of God Kataragama (left) and another. Note the crosses around their necks

Many more

Many more

Even the rocky ceiling is full of paintings

Even the rocky ceiling is full of paintings

Some of the Solosmasthana Dagobas

Some of the Solosmasthana Dagobas

Roof paintings, see anything different?

Roof paintings, see anything different?

Here's a close up... an English Soldier on horseback

Here’s a close up… an English Soldier on horseback

Note the year on the top (Pic by: Ana)

Note the year on the top (Pic by: Ana)

Close up... Wonder if that 10 and 22 represent 22nd of Oct. (Pic by: Ana)

Close up… Wonder if that 10 and 22 represent 22nd of Oct. (Pic by: Ana)

British Court of Arms in bright colors inside (Pic by: Ana)

British Court of Arms in bright colors inside (Pic by: Ana)

Walking towards the caves

Walking towards the caves

Here they are

Here they are

A statue depicting Lord Buddha's unyielding attempt to attain Nirvana

A statue depicting Lord Buddha’s unyielding attempt to attain Nirvana

Time to go and come back tomorrow

Time to go and come back tomorrow

We arrived at the hotel around 5.30pm and settled down for the night after a delicious dinner. Despite all the preparation and going through the available resources, we still had very little idea as to what to expect in this hike. Hopefully, it won’t turn out to be anything like Lakegala but little did we know about the hardships that laid ahead us. The dark gods smiled at each other as they already had planned the journey for us. Well, usually we do a small hike at least a walk before a major one but this time we didn’t have the time or the means. It’d also prove fatal within the next 18-24hrs. We’re going to hit the sack and will see you tomorrow. Be ready by 5am if you wanna join us.

Day 2

As usual Ana was the first up and his shuffling around woke me too. Mr. Mervyns said that there are elephants coming into the garden which is bordered by the Kirindi Oya in the back. They come and stay the night under a jack tree before leaving for their homes in the morning. I was wishing for them to come and make a roar but none arrived. We had our morning coffee and were ready to leave by 5.30am. We had sandwiches packed to be taken with us while Roti and boiled eggs were packed separately for lunch. I called Meththa asking him to meet us at the temple.

It was just before 6am when we got to the temple and woke the monks too. The sun was coming up but we couldn’t clearly see him due to the tree cover. However the temple is located at a higher elevation about 2200ft on a rocky slope with a view towards the Hambanthota area. According to the chief monk, on a clear day you could see right up to Hambanthota and Tissa but we weren’t that lucky. We could see the top of Kurullangala over the roof of the temple. We left the vehicle and started going towards the road to meet with Meththa. As we started walking towards the road, we saw the sunlight slowing bathing the Kurullangala rock. The golden brown rays made it glisten. Even then, we didn’t know exactly where the cave paintings were. However, I’ll point them out as now we know where they are exactly so that you’ll be able to figure out the scope of this. Some pictures till we get there.

Good morning!

Good morning!

Sun is rising slightly to the left

Sun is rising slightly to the left

Hills in the morning

Hills in the morning

Our target over the roof

Our target over the roof

Still dark

Still dark

Closer view

Closer view

Now the sun is on the rock

Now the sun is on the rock

Guess where the paintings are?

Guess where the paintings are?

Near the Pines Trees to the left below the tip of the rock

Near the Pines Trees to the left below the tip of the rock

Here's a closer view of those Pine trees... The paintings are on the wall angling in beyond them

Here’s a closer view of those Pine trees… The paintings are on the wall angling in beyond them

We arrived at the road and got ready for the journey. Still we were not fully aware of the full scope of the task ahead. So lemme give you a few tips now that we have learned a lesson in the hard way.

“Tips & Tricks

  • Check the weather first and foremost. If there’s even a slight chance of rain, it’s advisable to wait till the dry weather. There’re plenty of streams you have to cross and it’s gonna be really tough if you attempt this in the rains. In addition to this, you have to climb up along rocky walls which will have water coming down making it deadly dangerous going up. Accuweather and Fallingrain are very good and reliable sites to check on the weather.
  • Make your group as small as possible. Ideally 3-4 people.
  • Do a short hike or a walk before this just to get your body stretched. Ideally the day before.
  • Call Meththa and the Temple before the journey and talk to them about it.
  • Always follow Meththa’s instructions to the letter.
  • You’ll need climbing equipment such as ropes (at least two ropes, ideally knotted ones, with a minimum length of 30ft), karabiners, harnesses, gloves, hats, etc.
  • Keep the weight of the things you carry to a minimum.
  • Don’t carry large backpacks as they tend to wear you down very easily and strangle you among the bushes and branches.
  • Carry water at least 2 liters per person. It’s better not to carry those aluminum or porcelain ones as they add extra to the weight.
  • Take sandwiches or similar snack with you along. Better not to have a large breakfast before starting as it’ll drag you down. Keep eating in small quantities as you go along.
  • Energy bars, some biscuits, chocolate or cheese will do nicely but be careful not to take more than you really need.
  • Jeewani or similar Vitamin C supplements will be real handy.
  • Cover yourself with long-sleeved t-shirts and flexible pants. Remember, you must be able to move your arms and legs freely without your clothing hampering them.
  • Remember you’ll have to pull yourself up at many places with your arms which mean they’ll be stretched quite a lot. So make sure your arms can hold your body weight.
  • A pair of shoes with a solid grip. You’ll have to decide whether to climb the rocks barefoot or with the shoes. As long as you’re comfortable with one way or another, that’s all. It’s your call.
  • Carrying heavy lenses is not recommended but again it’s your call. Stefan carried a 100-400mm and 24-105mm lens with him with a greater difficulty.
  • Keep your mobiles with you but don’t bother to answer when you’re concentrating on the climb. The phones became a real nuisance as they kept ringing at the most awkward moments during our journey.
  • Most of all you’ve gotta be the judge of yourself. Ask yourself if you could do it or not and make the right call. Don’t let anyone decide it for you coz nobody else knows you better than yourself.
  • Don’t feel ashamed or bad if you feel you can’t do it coz there are many things that we can do and can’t do. What’s really important is getting back safely to tell your story. So please don’t take unnecessary risks trying to do this. It’s not a competition and you won’t get anything if you did this or will lose anything if you didn’t do this.
  • Keep a whole day for the journey and start as early as possible, preferably before 7am. We started at 6.30am and finished at 3.30pm after 9hrs of tedious walking and climbing.
  • Prepare both in your body and mind for the journey.”

Kurullangala Paintings

We met Meththa at the trail head where there was a huge pile of ¼ inch rocks were. The group posed for a photograph in very high spirits and we entered the jungle which was dark and overgrown. The weather had been nice and dry over the last few days and Accuweather predicted a slight shower between 1pm and 2pm. Other than that things looked awesome. There were two pipelines carrying water from the hills for the use of villagers. We followed the path parallel to them. Meththa said that there are all kinds of animals and snakes in the forest which made us a bit uneasy. After about an hour the going became really tough as the path had been overgrown and covered with many millions of dead leaves.

You have to be very careful where you keep your foot as those leaves are very deceptive. One miss, you’ll end up with a sprained ankle. Also, the snakes are bound to be hiding among them so use a stick in front of you as a precautionary measure. The path became steeper as we ate up the distance. It was full of lose rocks which made it even more dangerous. The people who went in front had to be very careful not to disturb them otherwise they’d fall onto the people coming behind. Couple of times we escaped miraculously and once a rock went past Ana’s phone with only a few mm to spare.

Humidity was a great enemy as we kept sweating like pigs. We could see the top of Kurullangala through the thick tree cover once or twice. Uma Oya site was also visible where they tunnel to remove excess air is being built. According to the folklore, they’d found a golden bed in that cave and apparently been taken away by the powers-that-be after the site was cordoned off by the security forces. However, you have to take these stories with a pinch of salt and not get carried away by them. If you remember, similar controversial story was connected with the cave at Sadinnagala, another part of Uma Oya.

Shiyana and Gayani accompanied by Meththa and Stefan went ahead of me and Ana very enthusiastically. The journey was very joyful as we had many interesting stories and experiences to share among us. One of them was a story about Portuguese. Well, I can’t tell you the story but it kept us going throughout the journey. We finally arrived at the base of the rock where you have to either make it or break it. As I mentioned in the Tips & Tricks, don’t take unnecessary risk and jeopardize the whole journey.  You gotta think carefully and make the call whether to go ahead or stay behind. You can always come back if you fail once. You must have some climbing gear such as knotted ropes at least 30ft in length and harnesses, karabiners and gloves. We had two ropes (one knotted and one without) 30ft in length, two harnesses and necessary karabiners and two pairs of thick gloves (wish we had another couple of pairs at least).

There was a creeper going uphill along the 90-degree slope of the rocky surface and Ana very stubbornly decided to chuck the ropes and climb along that. We had a time trying to restrain him. Afterwards we took a break and contemplated our journey further. We also had a small portion of the sandwiches we carried here with water. Stefan very wisely suggested we eat every now and then but in small amounts. Foolishly, we had forgotten to take any chocolate, biscuits or cheese with us which was a real drawback. Ok guys, while we munch on the sandwiches, you can see the pictures up to this point.

Happy faces

Happy faces

At the trail head with Meththa in the middle

At the trail head with Meththa in the middle

Initial stage

Initial stage

Ana crossing a dried up stream

Ana crossing a dried up stream

Beautiful

Beautiful

More to go

More to go

Rare glimpse of the top

Rare glimpse of the top

Can you see those clump of Pine trees just below the horn-shaped top? That’s where we have to go

Can you see those clump of Pine trees just below the horn-shaped top? That’s where we have to go

Many obstacles

Many obstacles

They kept up the pace with those smiles

They kept up the pace with those smiles

Some flat terrain

Some flat terrain

"Lewke Mathindu Ada Thaniyama Wela Medde"

“Lewke Mathindu Ada Thaniyama Wela Medde”

Uma Oya Project

Uma Oya Project

Close up

Close up

Many trees covering the sun disturbing us

Many trees covering the sun disturbing us

Have to go along the stream

Have to go along the stream

There they go

There they go

The path we came up

The path we came up

Stefan waving for the pic

Stefan waving for the pic

Meththa and Stefan taking a break

Meththa and Stefan taking a break

Deceptive track uphill

Deceptive track uphill

All the tricks in the book came into play

All the tricks in the book came into play

Oh gosh, we just came up from below

Oh gosh, we just came up from below

Now the exhaustion showing in their faces

Now the exhaustion showing in their faces

It was a constant battle uphill

It was a constant battle uphill

Ana using the back to turn around

Ana using the back to turn around

We're almost at the base of the rock

We’re almost at the base of the rock

Getting along the gorge parallel to the rocky wall

Getting along the gorge parallel to the rocky wall

Slowly and cautiously

Slowly and cautiously

See the creeper going up the rock?

See the creeper going up the rock?

Oh my god! Somebody stop him

Oh my god! Somebody stop him

Having a much-needed sandwich

Having a much-needed sandwich

Rock Climbing

We took a long break and stretched our legs. Already the exhaustion was setting in making further movement painful but we had made a vow not to turn back and give it our best shot but not at the expense of injury. Hope you remember the challenge threw at Ana and Stefan by the chief monk yesterday evening. He predicted that they won’t get beyond this point and looking at the 90-degree 20-foot climb with nothing to hold onto, I was wondering if any of us could go beyond this let alone Ana and Stefan.

This is where the meticulous planning of Stefan and Ana came into play. They’d foreseen the difficulties and had brought ropes, harnesses, karabiners and gloves and without them we would’ve had to turn back and come empty handed. Meththa expertly climbed to the top of the rock where there was a tree and rocky ledge enough for 2-3 to stay. He then tied the two ropes and sent them below. Gosh, this was like Lakegala Part II but we didn’t have that much to climb.

So I decided to have a go and holding onto the rope pushed myself up and was on the ledge with Meththa in no time for the joy of my team mates. Then Shiyana tried to come up but we let her climb without the help of the harness. Unfortunately after climbing about 1/3 of the journey, it proved a little too much for her arms and she managed to lower herself without a problem. That was a mistake made by us coz we shouldn’t have let her attempt without the harness. It kinda made her lose the confidence and panic resulting us having to leave her there with only a salamander to keep her company. A decision I regret so much even now it keeps nagging at me coz we’d never before left any of our crew behind. She nevertheless took it calmly and asked us to go on without her. I’m sure if we had helped her with the harness at first; she could’ve made it but didn’t wanna push it after she lost the first attempt.

The came Gayani’s chance and at least this time we didn’t make a blunder. She wore the harness and with the help of Meththa managed to hoist herself up to the rocky ledge where I was videoing everything below. Stefan followed suit and managed to get himself too leaving Ana to make up his mind. The rocky ledge was getting crowded so I climbed up to the tree and balanced myself among the branches. Ana had no second thoughts and with a short break in the middle, he too was up and smiling with us. We thought all our worries were over and from here it’ll be a footpath to follow but we were wrong by miles.

We then asked Shiyana to keep in touch with the phone and promising to get back as quickly as possible started the descent from there. We left the rope without knots tied to the tree and carried only the knotted one with us. Here we had to put the rope once again.  As usual Meththa kindly went ahead and tied the rope once again and this time Stefan, Gayani, Ana and I followed in that order. When that ordeal was over, we had to crawl ourselves along the rocky gorge full of lose rocks and overgrown bushes. By now we were bruised all over and the scratches were bleeding in places smarting when they came into contact with the pouring sweat. To make matters worse, at the slightest chance lose rocks came tumbling down making it deadly for the people laboring up behind.

Now our limbs were screaming and they felt as if they would come off the body at the next pull. However none of my team mates complained or were ready to back out. We all had one goal which was to get to the cave paintings. So we kept pushing us beyond the limits and finally arrived at a safe ground where we could sit and take a breath. We decided to eat 2 sandwiches each and have some water. While we get at them, you’d be best off looking at some of the pictures. Mind you, I was concentrating on taking videos more than the pictures so you wouldn’t find many pictures in the collections but be sure to check the video series.

Almost 90-degree

Almost 90-degree

Selfie king

Selfie king

Stefan going up to where the rope is needed

Stefan going up to where the rope is needed

Followed by Gayani

Followed by Gayani

Meththa went on this way

Meththa went on this way

I was following them (Pic by: Ana)

I was following them (Pic by: Ana)

The rope is hanging and Meththa was up (no pictures as I was the first up and then was busy videoing)

The rope is hanging and Meththa was up (no pictures as I was the first up and then was busy videoing)

Ana climbing from the second spot

Ana climbing from the second spot

What do you think?

What do you think?

We had to go up along the left flank

We had to go up along the left flank

There he goes

There he goes

Now the view getting clearer

Now the view getting clearer

Hills in the far

Hills in the far

It was a walk in the park for Meththa

It was a walk in the park for Meththa

Gosh, that was tricky...

Gosh, that was tricky…

Let's have some more

Let’s have some more

Final Assault

After a break and checking if Shiyana was ok we resumed the journey. This time we maneuvered along the gorge till we once again came up against a rocky boulder this time about 15ft and about 70-degree elevation. There were two vines coming from the top hugging the rock and I tested them to see if they’d hold my wait without waiting for Meththa to tie the rope. They did and I slowly dragged myself up the rocky surface adding more bruises into the existing ones. At the end I got stuck amid many bushes and branches and Meththa had to come to my rescue. We got the others up with the help of the rope.

Oh dear, there was still more to go and we could see the yellow and black rock towering above us. There was no path but green foliage covering the ground. We had to crash through the thorny bushes and kept a safe distance between each other so as not to get seriously injured from the lose rocks falling. This went on for about 100m which felt like 100km and again we were at a tricky point where the rocky surface to the left was not passable without a rope. There was a tree fallen hugging the rocky at a 45-degree angle. One has to balance like a ballerina or a gymnast to get to the top of the rock going along the tree trunk.

As usual Meththa went ahead and put the rope. This time Stefan took the challenge and climbed along the tree hugging the rocky wall. It was scary and one mistake you’d have ended up on those thorny bushes we just came up. I then followed him with Gayani and Ana closely behind. “Are we there?” I asked Meththa for the umpteenth time and got the same reply “Not yet”. Gosh, I wanted to cry and the muscles started protest in agony. The path now ran through a Mana patch with razor sharp blades cutting into our exposed flesh drawing blood mercilessly. However we soon came to another point and had to use the rope again.

This time Gayani went in front with Stefan and me behind and Ana bringing the rear. “We’re here” I heard the joyous shout from Gayani and I wanted to jump up and down like a maniac in joy. When I got up there, gosh, the mirror like rocky wall looked as if it was covered in blood but looking closer it was the paint used by whoever drew these paintings to color them. While we enjoy the scene and embrace each other in joy, you better check these photos.

Just started the next phase

Just started the next phase

Razor sharp

Razor sharp

Couldn't resist taking this

Couldn’t resist taking this

Oh my gosh, where's the path?

Oh my gosh, where’s the path?

We have to go along the left side to the top

We have to go along the left side to the top

One of the scary moments

One of the scary moments

Ready to go but waiting for the harness

Ready to go but waiting for the harness

Meththa was very helpful

Meththa was very helpful

Gosh, this was scary

Gosh, this was scary

The other rock we had to turn left from here

The other rock we had to turn left from here

Gayani is getting ready

Gayani is getting ready

Leaning on the rocky wall is the best way

Leaning on the rocky wall is the best way

Hugging onto the tree for the dear life

Hugging onto the tree for the dear life

Here comes Ana watched by Meththa

Here comes Ana watched by Meththa

Target now close by

Target now close by

View

View

Yet another rope climbing

Yet another rope climbing

And this itchy and scratchy Mana bushes

And this itchy and scratchy Mana bushes

The rock on the other side

The rock on the other side

Here we are... note the deep red to the bottom right

Here we are… note the deep red to the bottom right

Paintings at Last

We all started panting and dancing at the same time feeling the excitement. We were both exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. Talking about the rocky wall with paintings, it has two plates separated horizontally. The total length is about 40ft and the height is about 25-30ft. Apparently there had been paintings all over the surface but now they’re only limited to the right hand corner with the size of about 10-20sqft. These are not drawn and then painted with colors. Instead they’d been straight away drawn along the outer lines with the reddish paint. Rocky wall looks really flat very much like a mirror but they hadn’t used any plaster over it to draw the paintings. If you have seen the paintings in those old temples they’d been done with a coat of plaster on the rocky surface and then drawn over it.

Now let’s talk about the images drawn by them. There were well quite a number of them but most of them had been drawn over each other. I wonder if they were trying to make them look like 3D or just drew over the ones which had been painted before. There are mainly birds which look like from Dinosaur Age and a couple of them looked like Crested Hawk Eagles. Other than that, there were reptiles in different shapes. Some of them had the bodies very much like those of Dinosaurs with saw-like zig-zag patterns. It’s really hard to judge what they look like.

So far no responsible organization or personnel has been able to give at least a clue as to how old these paintings are. Meththa said that the general belief was they were about 5000 years old but nothing to verify this claim. Amid all this Stefan confirmed that these paintings very much resemble the Aboriginal Paintings found in Australia which are something between 20,000-60,000 years old. There are some palm prints with the fingers very much like a human being’s but larger. There were 4 clear prints with possibly 2 more partial ones.

Talking about the surrounding, Meththa said Punagala was beyond this rock and I was wondering if it’d have been easier if we came from that side and started abseiling towards the paintings. It’s about 100-150ft drop to the cave where the paintings are. Well it’s not really a cave but the upper part of the rocky wall is leaned forward kind of making a shelter but you can’t stay here in the rains without getting wet. There were signs of water streaming along the wall rubbing the painting with them. Fortunately the paintings in the extreme right hand side still more or less intact but for how long is the million dollar question. Maybe we went there just in time and few of the lucky ones.

In terms of the surrounding, we could see the rocky boulder to the right and left of the paintings rising to the sky beyond which is Punagala. On the other side we could see the Wellawaya-Ella Road and the separate sites of Uma Oya Project. The rocky pile where we started the journey could also be seen. Further in the distance was the Wellawaya and other towns towards Hambanthota.

Well, while we take a break, how about you going through these pictures and make up your own mind.

Gayani doing the introduction

Gayani doing the introduction

The mirror-like wall

The mirror-like wall

The base of the painting wall with better preserved pics

The base of the painting wall with better preserved pics

It's all a jumble of paintings drawn over one another but if you look closely can see the differences

It’s all a jumble of paintings drawn over one another but if you look closely can see the differences

This bit was above the main collection

This bit was above the main collection

To the left top of the main collection, note the water seeping marks along the wall

To the left top of the main collection, note the water seeping marks along the wall

Just look at them

Just look at them

Looks like from Dinosaur age

Looks like from Dinosaur age

Damaged by water

Damaged by water

Can you see the palm prints?

Can you see the palm prints?

One of the darker one and it was the biggest of all

One of the darker one and it was the biggest of all

Reminds me of Phoenix bird

Reminds me of Phoenix bird

Here a close up of it

Here a close up of it

Leg of the Crested-Hawk Eagle like bird

Leg of the Crested-Hawk Eagle like bird

They were the highest located paintings

They were the highest located paintings

See the damage done by water? These are again Dinosaur like

See the damage done by water? These are again Dinosaur like

Some more slightly above

Some more slightly above

Another

Another

Faded

Faded

Hard to imagine what this is

Hard to imagine what this is

Looks like a reptile

Looks like a reptile

Here the Crested-Hawk Eagle like bird

Here the Crested-Hawk Eagle like bird

Will have to do something before they're fully gone

Will have to do something before they’re fully gone

The rest of the wall but no more paintings

The rest of the wall but no more paintings

See the cave like angle of the upper part

See the cave like angle of the upper part

There’s a reddish tinged mark on the rock below the trees on the rock

There’s a reddish tinged mark on the rock below the trees on the rock

Here it is, hard to say what it is, looks like more painting

Here it is, hard to say what it is, looks like more painting

Surrounding scenery

Surrounding scenery

Let's take a close up

Let’s take a close up

Uma Oya Project

Uma Oya Project

Working areas

Working areas

One of the piles of rocks, we started our trail somewhere similar to this

One of the piles of rocks, we started our trail somewhere similar to this

Meththa with the paintings

Meththa with the paintings

Me and my patented pose

Me and my patented pose

Stef showing his gratitude to the man of the moment, Meththa

Stef showing his gratitude to the man of the moment, Meththa

The team with all smiles

The team with all smiles

Here a groupie of all of us... I look as if giving first aid to Stef

Here a groupie of all of us… I look as if giving first aid to Stef

Going Downhill

Ok, hopefully I managed to fulfil my promise and show you all the pictures as best as possible. Now we’ve gotta get down and my legs simply refuse to even think about it. However, we must hurry as Shiyana is waiting for us with a shy salamander. Thankfully there’s mobile reception so she could keep in touch with us and the rest of the world checking her Facebook account. As usual Meththa played the anchor role and this time our roles were reversed coz it was all about coming down.

Most of the time we just tested the friction of our bottoms by simply sliding down along the rocks. The clothes were dirty and torn along with our skin. We were like a bunch of junkies. However, our downhill journey was faster than the uphill. Gayani and I went in front keeping a fair distance between the rest of the group so as not to get killed by lose rocks. We managed to climb down most of the way without the help of a rope. Eventually we got to the place where Shiyana was anxiously waiting.

The journey was far from over coz we had to climb down on that rocky wall for about 20ft. I went down first and Shiyana said that we’d been gone for 3hrs. Finally the whole group came down safely without so much drama and we savored our success together with the last of our water. Still the thought of having to leave one member of our group kept nagging at me and I’m sure it’ll be there for a long time. However she took it calmly and had no problem of us leaving her behind.

The journey from there is supposed to be easier compared to what we went through but it proved more challenging as our legs kept playing all the instruments known to the human kind from Sitar to Violin. No matter how much you promised to give a good rubbing for the legs, they still protested probably knowing that it’d turn out to be yet another false promise. There was a lot of crashing on the way. Finally we saw the pipeline and knew it was very little to go. Around 3pm, we emerged out of the thorny bushes onto the carpeted road and I’d never been happier to see that charcoal grey surface before. We all sat down on the road and took a long breath. Golly, did it test our stamina? While we lick our wounds, you may see some of the pictures coming down. Here they are:

Stef playing the anchor man

Stef playing the anchor man

Where we were a few minutes ago

Where we were a few minutes ago

We slid along the rock

We slid along the rock

We had to use the rope here and Shiyana was waiting for us

We had to use the rope here and Shiyana was waiting for us

Others getting down

Others getting down

Here's Gayani

Here’s Gayani

Meththa, Stef and Ana just before the solid ground

Meththa, Stef and Ana just before the solid ground

Getting the things back together

Getting the things back together

You know what it is?

You know what it is?

A mummified Giant Squirrel

A mummified Giant Squirrel

Here's the team with all smiles

Here’s the team with all smiles

Away they go to the vehicle

Away they go to the vehicle

We then walked up to the temple along the road and even that proved challenging as we kept wobbling like injured horses. We’d been on the go since 6.30am till 3.30pm, a solid 9-hour back-breaking hike. Our meal of Roti and Lunumiris was still in the vehicle but not edible as they’d been waiting since 6am so we only had to satisfy with a boiled egg and a banana. The monk was really surprised to hear that Ana and Stefan climbed all the way. After giving a donation for the temple’s coming up Preaching Hall, we bid our farewell to him kindly declining his offer for some milk coffee.

We drove to the hotel feeling over the moon and after a scalding bath and a good rubbing down of the grime and thorns still sticking into our bodies only we felt half human. Even as I type now, I can still feel some of those tiny thorns still under the soft layer of my palms nagging like a granny. A good hearty meal was ready in no time and we ate like beggars. After wolfing down as much as we could, we settled for the night dreaming about creepers, bushes and lose rocks. The following morning, we left for Colombo and made it to our homes before lunch.

Well folks, that’s about it of our Kurullangala Fairy Tale. This had been a big dream of mine and thanks to Ana and Stefan; I managed to make it a reality. If you ever wanna do this, please go through all the details and plan it properly. I hope I’ve been able to give you a good comprehensive narration of the journey.

This is Sri signing off for now and will see you again…

Take care!


Visiting the Symbolic Representation of the Living Buddha – Pic Journey 10…

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Year and Month 22 Jul, 2015
Number of Days 1
Crew Two friends of me and their family members and Me (10 in all)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Hired Van
Activities Archeology, History, Photography, Exclusive Viewing of the Tooth Relic at Dalada Maligawa, etc…
Weather Drizzling on and off
Route Colombo->Pilimathalawa->Gadaladeniya->Lankathilaka->Embekka->Geli Oya->Peradeniya->Kandy and back on A1 to Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Anyone visits the Dalada Maligawa (Tooth Temple) can view the Tooth Relic Casket Dagoba if they go during the rituals I the morning, noon or evening. However it’ll be only for a brief moment and from about 25ft away.
  • To get an exclusive and closer view (almost as close as 5ft) you either have to do a Dhanaya (Almsgiving) or have a known contact of the guardians of the Tooth Relic to get there.
  • Pilimathalawa-Embekka via Gadaladeniya and Lankathilaka road is in very good condition. All within 6-8km from the main Kandy-Colombo road off Pilimathalawa Town.
  • You could also come to this road from Gelioya side and visit them from Embekka to Gadaladeniya via Lankathilaka.
  • If you visit Lankathilaka on a Wed or Sat, you can see the statues of the respective gods with their wives (something not depicted anywhere else).
  • Wear clean and white clothes to visit the Buddhist Temples especially Dalada Maligawa and keep your phones either on silent or switched off.
  • You may take flowers, incense sticks and coconut oil to do the rituals at the temples but please don’t burn lamps or incense sticks closer to the old paintings or statues.
  • Be quiet and speak softly inside the temple premises.
  • Check if you’re allowed to take pictures before do so.
  • Don’t take pictures keeping the statues behind you.
  • Don’t behave in a way that offends other devotees.
  • Don’t litter or pollute these places. Help if you can clean them.
  • Check My Previous Journey here.
  • Try to avoid weekends and holidays as these places get very much crowded then.
  • Don’t touch or get closer to the paintings and statues as they get damaged very easily due to the age.
  • Help protect them for the future generations
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Who’s been to the Dalada Maligawa or Tooth Temple?”

I know it’s one of the silliest of questions I could’ve asked you but I had to ask it to enter my fairy tale. I’m sure most of the Sri Lankans regardless of their religion have visited this magical place on earth where the Left Canine Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha that was retrieved from the sandalwood funeral pyre of Kushinagar is kept. This is also visited by many foreigners and as the statistics reveal it is the second place visited mostly after the Elephant Orphanage at Pinnawala. At an estimate about 80-90% of all the tourists pay a visit to Dalada Maligawa.

“Ok now how many of you have been fortunate enough to see the Tooth Relic Dagoba?”

Now the numbers starting to diminish, don’t they? There are hundreds and thousands and millions of people who go many miles just to get a peek at this beautiful and holy Dagoba when it’s unveiled for the public during the rituals and special occasions. Now you might want to confront me asking what they carry on the elephant back during the Esela Perahera. Isn’t it the same Tooth Relic Dagoba? Well I don’t know for sure and I don’t think it is either. It will be a huge security risk for the sacred relic to take it on elephant back through those streets. I’m assuming it probably is a mock-up of the original holy Dagoba.

“Now how many of you have been that extra fortunate to have seen the Tooth Relic Dagoba at close quarters in its own residence?”

Well, I doubt if the numbers are anywhere near a respectable amount. It’s so difficult to get such an opportunity. It’s not only that but also you must be very lucky to be able to get that closer to the holy Dagoba. You can get this opportunity if you manage to obtain an almsgiving to the Dalada Maligawa but trust me, it’s like once in a blue moon you get that lucky. The other is that you need to have a contact of the guardians of the Tooth Relic which might (I repeat might) pave the way for a close viewing.

Ok, we got the chance from the latter and were extremely lucky to have witnessed this Holy Relic Dagoba at almost touching distance. Ok, let’s get to the story at hand now that I’ve done my boasting.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Gadaladeniya Temple.
  2. Lankathilaka Temple.
  3. Embekke Kataragama Devalaya.
  4. Dalada Maligawa.

We left for Kandy around 8.30am (so much late for my liking) on a bright sunny day. It felt very awkward to travel with 10 members in a crammed van with very little space to move about. There was hardly any talk of the usual topics and we by and large remained quiet. After a lot of delays and traffic jams (travelling along A1 is a true nightmare regardless of the day and time now) we arrived at Pilimathalawa around 1.30pm and decided to go see the three main attractions closer to the main road.

Gadaladeniya Temple

Gadaladeniya RMV was built by the King Buvanekabahu IV in 1344 according to an inscription found on site. This beautiful temple is located on a flat rocky hill in a village called Diggala. It’s believed that the chief architect was a South Indian named Ganeshvarachari thus giving it South Indian architectural design. Kandyan-era King Sri Veeraparakrama Narendrasinghe handed the guardianship of this temple to Ven. Welivita Sri Saranankara Thero sometime in 1707-1739. During the King Parakrambahu VI (1412-1467), this temple was renovated and whitewashed.

The image house of the complex is the oldest building. There are similar architectural designs identified between this temple and Natha Devalaya, Kandy and Nalanda Gedige, Matale.

There’s a bit of confusion when it comes to the real name of the temple. An inscription has indicated this temple as “Dharma Kirthi Viharaya” which is believed to be the name of the founding Buddhist Monk who initiated the work. The “Nikaya Sangrahaya” however differs from it and identifies this temple as “Saddharmathilake”. To make things more interesting “Saddharmalankaraya” identifies this as “Gadaladeniya Viharaya” probably after the village it is located.

For more details, refer to this link.

The history

The history

Entering

Entering

Let's go in and see

Let’s go in and see

Tiny image house, there are four on the four sides

Tiny image house, there are four on the four sides

Most of it faded

Most of it faded

Even the wooden door is full of paintings which is common in Kandyan-era

Even the wooden door is full of paintings which is common in Kandyan-era

Inner walls

Inner walls

The elephant carvings of granite were a common sight too

The elephant carvings of granite were a common sight too

Another of the four entrances

Another of the four entrances

Interior

Interior

Inner walls as usual full of fading paintings

Inner walls as usual full of fading paintings

Ok, let's move on

Ok, let’s move on

Some more elephant carvings

Some more elephant carvings

The main image house still under renovation

The main image house still under renovation

Tiny pond in the courtyard

Tiny pond in the courtyard

Just a single flower

Just a single flower

Just look at that

Just look at that

Going to the image house

Going to the image house

Artistic steps

Artistic steps

Guard stones

Guard stones

Tiny elephant carved of solid granite

Tiny elephant carved of solid granite

Along the steps

Along the steps

The granite frame at the entrance

The granite frame at the entrance

Pillars carved from granite

Pillars carved from granite

Lions' carvings

Lions’ carvings

Solid three-legged wooden bench

Solid three-legged wooden bench

Found inside

Found inside

The main statue

The main statue

One of the two paneled door

One of the two paneled door

Safe and secure

Safe and secure

See the artwork?

See the artwork?

Paintings on the door

Paintings on the door

Some more

Some more

Huge Buddha Statue

Huge Buddha Statue

Side angle

Side angle

Monumental Relic Casket

Monumental Relic Casket

An old metallic statue

An old metallic statue

Relics all around

Relics all around

Interior of it

Interior of it

Side by statues

Side by statues

Another

Another

Can see a good Makara Thorana overhead

Can see a good Makara Thorana overhead

Moonstone at the hall adjoining the hall

Moonstone at the hall adjoining the hall

Damaged at places

Damaged at places

Some more subtly carved ones

Some more subtly carved ones

Another

Another

Well time to go

Well time to go

Final look up the top

Final look up the top

Lankathilaka Temple

Lankathilaka RMV which was built during the Gampola Kingdom was built at the crest of a large rock named Panhalgala” overlooking the Hantana Mountain Range in the Hiripitiya village off Gadaladeniya. This too was built during Gampola-era under King Buvanekabahu IV. Senadhilankara, he king’s chief minister, had taken the initiative to build this temple and given the task to another South Indian architect named Spathirayar.

According to the legendary archeologist Dr. Senarath Paranavithana this had been used as both a Buddhist Temple as well as a Hindu Kovil for worshipping. He further states that there are similarities found in the Nagayon Temple in Pagan built in the 11th Century. This proves that there’s a mixture of Indo-China architectural designs used in this.

Another very interesting thing is the statues of Gods Vishnu and Saman depicted with their wives. According to the archaeological officer on site, this is something not found or depicted anywhere else. You can see these above (on either side) of the Buddha Statue in the main image house. If you visit on a Wed or a Sat, you should be able to see them in the respective Devalaya too.

For more details, refer to this link.

History

History

Entering

Entering

Muddy ground

Muddy ground

This is one of the entrances to a Devalaya

This is one of the entrances to a Devalaya

This one was off the main complex

This one was off the main complex

If I'm not mistaken, this is God Aluth Nuwara Dedimunda

If I’m not mistaken, this is God Aluth Nuwara Dedimunda

Time to explore

Time to explore

Two different drums for the festivals

Two different drums for the festivals

Dagoba

Dagoba

Clear blue sky is missing

Clear blue sky is missing

This was at the base of Dagoba on the rocky surface

This was at the base of Dagoba on the rocky surface

Going to the front

Going to the front

In the distance, you can see the Hanthana

In the distance, you can see the Hanthana

Main image house is through this

Main image house is through this

Wanna go

Wanna go

Saw a similar one at Gadaladeniya

Saw a similar one at Gadaladeniya

The pavilion in front of the entrance to the image house

The pavilion in front of the entrance to the image house

Locked doors

Locked doors

Ok, let's go

Ok, let’s go

The moonstone like place

The moonstone like place

Makara Thorana

Makara Thorana

Guard stones

Guard stones

Just by the door to the interior

Just by the door to the interior

Looks ancient but not sure how old

Looks ancient but not sure how old

Looking down at the pavilion

Looking down at the pavilion

Just before the door side by side

Just before the door side by side

Not sure what this represents though

Not sure what this represents though

The door that leads to the inner sanctum

The door that leads to the inner sanctum

Top of it

Top of it

The main image house with a huge statue

The main image house with a huge statue

Portrait

Portrait

Makara Thorana but note the two gods either side with their queens

Makara Thorana but note the two gods either side with their queens

Other statues

Other statues

God Vishnu with his wife

God Vishnu with his wife

And God Saman with his wife

And God Saman with his wife

The roof still in good condition protecting the statues

The roof still in good condition protecting the statues

Wall paintings in good quality

Wall paintings in good quality

Some more

Some more

Zoomed

Zoomed

Ceiling

Ceiling

Hansa Puttuwa, the significance is that there are 4 swans whereas the typical one has only 2

Hansa Puttuwa, the significance is that there are 4 swans whereas the typical one has only 2

The original statue that King Buvanekabahu worshipped

The original statue that King Buvanekabahu worshipped

Time to move on

Time to move on

Long hall

Long hall

Brief description of what it is

Brief description of what it is

The entrance to the temple

The entrance to the temple

The roof

The roof

Before we left

Before we left

Embekke Kataragama Devalaya

Embekke Devalaya was built in 14-15th Century was initially used as the Audience Hall (Magul Maduwa) by the Gampola-era kings. It was later converted and dedicated to the Sinhalese War-God Kartikeya or popularly known as God Kataragama.

According to archaic documents and the epic Embekke Varnanawa composed by Delgahagoda Mudiyanse, it was built during the Gampola period of King Wickrema Bahu II (1371 AD). One of his consorts named Henakanda Biso Bandara, in association with a drummer named Rangama, as told in a miraculous dream, is supposed to have built this Devalaya and dedicated it to God Kataragama in a superb three-storied building which is now no more.

In the Drumming Hall (Dig-ge), are to be found sculptured in the medial panels of the wooden pillars on the beams conventional Sinhalese designs of the Swans, the Double-headed Eagle, the Woman growing out of the Vine, Bacchanalian Figures in Characteristic Pose, a Wrestling Pair, Dancers and Soldiers, Men and Women in fluent and graceful movement. These unique carvings display the skills of the ancient masters and bear testimony to the craftsmanship of the school of wood sculptor of the period.

The roof of the Embekke Devalaya bears some ingenuous revelations of classic carpentry masterpieces in fixing the rafters. The ‘Madol Kurupuwa’ is one of the finest examples of medieval carpentry excellence. It is a wooden pin (Madol Kurupuwa) which holds together 26 rafters at the hipped end of the roof of the Dig-ge of Embekke Devalaya.

Some people mistakenly call this as the “Keni Madala” which is not true. The Keni Madala refers to a full circle of rafters joined together by one wooden pin but here at Embekke Devalaya, it’s only a half circle of rafters are joined together and is called Madol Kurupawa.

In terms of the wood carvings, there are 125 series of Decorations, 256 Liyawel, 64 Lotus Designs in Pekada, 30 decorative patterns on timber, roof members, making a total of 514 such exquisite carvings. The UNESCO has identified this as a unique set of wooden carvings which is not found anywhere else in the world.

For more details, refer to this link.

The legend

The legend

Entering

Entering

Main hall

Main hall

Closer

Closer

Typical Makara Thorana

Typical Makara Thorana

Lion depicted either side

Lion depicted either side

This is inside; remember a similar statue was at Lankathilaka?

This is inside; remember a similar statue was at Lankathilaka?

Ancient bells

Ancient bells

Look at those locks

Look at those locks

This is somewhat common

This is somewhat common

To the right of the main complex

To the right of the main complex

This is where the weapons are stored

This is where the weapons are stored

Tiny image house next to that

Tiny image house next to that

Wall paintings too

Wall paintings too

Still in good condition

Still in good condition

Some more

Some more

Ceiling

Ceiling

Gods depicted either side of the Makara Thorana

Gods depicted either side of the Makara Thorana

Left

Left

Another artistic lock

Another artistic lock

The door too is painted

The door too is painted

Another angle of the lock

Another angle of the lock

Go and see the famous wood carvings

Go and see the famous wood carvings

First this

First this

See the Madol Kurupawa

See the Madol Kurupawa

Count and see if there are 26 rafters. If there were rafters all around, then it becomes a Keni Madala

Count and see if there are 26 rafters. If there were rafters all around, then it becomes a Keni Madala

Wrestlers

Wrestlers

Images

Images

Images

Images

All around

All around

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

This is known as Kiwisum Muna

This is known as Kiwisum Muna

Images

Images

Lion attacking a tusker

Lion attacking a tusker

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

Images

The rafters along the roof are too carved beautifully

The rafters along the roof are too carved beautifully

Look at this

Look at this

Another part of the complex

Another part of the complex

The Kitchen and the Storage of Grains

The Kitchen and the Storage of Grains

Main complex

Main complex

Time to go

Time to go

Temple of Tooth – Dalada Maligawa

As I’ve done a short introduction of our journey, we’ll go straight to the pictures. Mainly, I simply have no words to express the feeling of seeing the Sacred Dagoba at close quarters. It’s something one would get at a very rare opportunity. Please be warned that you can’t take pictures at such close proximity to the Dagoba but when it’s opened briefly, you might get lucky to take a long-range shot at it providing you’re in a steady position among the many who push and pull to take a peek with your camera ready at the right time.

By the way, it is not a secret that the barbaric terrorists attacked this sacred place in 1998 which caused a lot of damage but miraculously saved the holy chamber where the tooth relic is stored. Ultimately, those brutal terrorists were wiped out and it’s no secret that the attack on this holy site was the reason for the downfall for them. Archaeological experts from both Sri Lanka and overseas did a remarkable job of getting this back to what it was after the attack.

For more details, refer to this link.

Gloomy sky

Gloomy sky

Bogambara Tank, many call it Nuwara Wewa which is in fact in Anuradhapura

Bogambara Tank, many call it Nuwara Wewa which is in fact in Anuradhapura

Common sight along the lake bank

Common sight along the lake bank

Looks as if he's got some kind of a disease

Looks as if he’s got some kind of a disease

Sleeping

Sleeping

Funny way to sleep

Funny way to sleep

Entering the main complex

Entering the main complex

Anagarika Dharmapala Statue

Anagarika Dharmapala Statue

There it is with the moat

There it is with the moat

Most sacred place for the Buddhists

Most sacred place for the Buddhists

Paththirippuwa

Paththirippuwa

Moat in the front

Moat in the front

Paththirippuwa another angle

Paththirippuwa another angle

Going in

Going in

Colorful ceiling

Colorful ceiling

Ground chamber of the Weda Sitina Geya or where the relic is kept

Ground chamber of the Weda Sitina Geya or where the relic is kept

Gold plated fence protecting it from intrusions

Gold plated fence protecting it from intrusions

Back entrance

Back entrance

From the image house next door

From the image house next door

The upper chamber where the rituals are conducted

The upper chamber where the rituals are conducted

Main image house

Main image house

Closer

Closer

Those white statues are mainly given by the countries like Thailand, Burma, etc.

Those white statues are mainly given by the countries like Thailand, Burma, etc.

Golden Buddha

Golden Buddha

Up close

Up close

The ceiling is very beautiful too

The ceiling is very beautiful too

Many things to look at and worship

Many things to look at and worship

One of those statues

One of those statues

And another with a different posture

And another with a different posture

Another one

Another one

Oh, a tusker

Oh, a tusker

See the carvings on it

See the carvings on it

How about now?

How about now?

Roof

Roof

Buddha statues line all along the hall

Buddha statues line all along the hall

Artistic work along the ceiling as well

Artistic work along the ceiling as well

The statues that line the wall

The statues that line the wall

There were paintings too above the statues depicting special occasions of the Buddha's life

There were paintings too above the statues depicting special occasions of the Buddha’s life

Here is the evening rituals

Here is the evening rituals

Getting ready

Getting ready

Lower chamber

Lower chamber

Flags hung along the corridors

Flags hung along the corridors

Granite work

Granite work

Here's at the Paththirippuwa

Here’s at the Paththirippuwa

Statues

Statues

Where people can freely go and worship

Where people can freely go and worship

Another donation from one of the Buddhist countries

Another donation from one of the Buddhist countries

Another like the above

Another like the above

They kept it going

They kept it going

Been wanting to stay at the premises till dark

Been wanting to stay at the premises till dark

Beautifully lit

Beautifully lit

Like heaven

Like heaven

It only needed a full moon overhead

It only needed a full moon overhead

Ok folks, I hope you liked the pictures. I just wanted to keep you up-to-date with the latest set of pictures. Hope you like them and will get a chance to see the Representation of the Living Buddha with your own eyes. I couldn’t have asked for a better birthday gift. So tomorrow (it’ll be too late by the time you read this) I’m gonna have the best birthday.

This is Sri signing off for now and will see you with another story later.

Take care and keep travelling!

Colours of Mullaitivu

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Year and Month September, 2015
Number of Days First day of a two day trip (Day two report)
Crew 2 (Me and my better half)
Accommodation Chundikulam nature park
Transport Pajero
Activities Bird watching, culture, Road trip, Photography
Weather Clear sky
Route Chilaw -> Anuradhapura -> Vavuniya -> Puliyankulam -> Nedunkeni -> Oddusudan -> Mullaittivu -> Alampil -> Nayaru -> Kokkilai -> Mullaittivu -> Vellamullivaikal -> Puthukkudyiruppu -> Visuvamadu -> Paranthan -> Elephant pass -> Chundikulam
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Some places require 4WD
  • Bit of Tamil would help alot
  • Ask directions from locals

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Amila for helping in bookings and guidance

Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
The map - click to enlarge

The map – click to enlarge

Ok there was a huge gap in my traveling history and I needed to cover it up ASAP. Yes Mullaitivu needed to be explored but in a unique way. Both of us decided before hand not to focus on any remains that glorify the past of Terrorism other than few road side monuments. So this was more of a road trip and exploring beautiful and giant reservoirs in this virgin forest district. First of all I should thank the government for the superb road conditions which was a great relief for us and it speeded up the journey too. Though Mullaitivu is the main town of the district it still shows signs of non-development. One wouldn’t feel like you are in a major town (even Kilinochchi is bigger than Mullaitivu) if not for few large government buildings. There is lot to catch up for this war battered city.

We left Chilaw early to reach Puliyankulam in the morning where we decided to head towards Oddusudan from there. I must warn you it’s difficult to give directions because we used Google maps most of the time because of the language barrier. From Oddusudan we took a road which led us towards Muttiyankaddu reservoir. This was a lovely tank which produced some stunning scenery for us. On the way to the dam we came across an archeology site (we were looking for this) which is now a kovil.

sun rise at Medawachchiya

sun rise at Medawachchiya

road side bicycle at Nedunkerny

road side bicycle at Nedunkerny

livlihood

livelihood

heat is a major problem

heat is a major problem

Muttiyankaddu kulam tank gates

Muttiyankaddu kulam tank gates

lovely

lovely

Muttiyankaddu kulam tank

Muttiyankaddu kulam tank

lovely colours

lovely colours

using sand from the tank

using sand from the tank

couldnt stop clicking

couldnt stop clicking

 lonely hut

lonely hut

Muttiyankaddu ancient temple now a kovil

Muttiyankaddu ancient temple now a kovil

note the ancient rock stones

note the ancient rock stones

ancient drainage system

ancient drainage system

Paddyfield Pipit having a mud bath

Paddyfield Pipit having a mud bath

palmyrah roof

palmyrah roof

 the school building with coconut leave walls

the school building with coconut leave walls

Next stop was at Mullaitivu and from there we headed southwards to reach Kokilai. On the way we had few stops at Nayaru lagoon and drove on the dried out muddy lagoon like free birds. Where the lagoon meats the ocean there is an army camp (19th Gemunu) and on the opposite side of the road is an ancient temple called Gurukanda Rmv. This land belongs to archaeology department and there are some ruins which were found here, kept on display in the Army camp (we got permission to visit these stuff).

Nandikadal lagoon

Nandikadal lagoon

Purple coot

Purple coot

the lagoon

the lagoon

flock of ducks

flock of ducks

whistling ducks

whistling ducks

 fishing stall

fishing stall

calm and quiet lagoon of nanthi kadal

calm and quiet lagoon of nanthi kadal

dried out Nayaru lagoon

dried out Nayaru lagoon

lovely scenery

lovely scenery

at nayaru lagoon

at nayaru lagoon

lagoon ride

lagoon ride

 halted

halted

 fishing at the lagoon

fishing at the lagoon

 where the nayaru lagoon meets the ocean

where the nayaru lagoon meets the ocean

north east of SL

north east of SL

fishing harbour

fishing harbour

 fishing huts

fishing huts

another road side lagoon

another road side lagoon

Spot-billed Pelicans

Spot-billed Pelicans

paradise for birds

paradise for birds

 Indian darter or Oriental darter

Indian darter or Oriental darter

beach near 19th gemunu camp

beach near 19th gemunu camp

Ruins found at Gurukanda RMV

Ruins found at Gurukanda RMV

Ruins found at Gurukanda RMV

Ruins found at Gurukanda RMV

Next stop was Kokilai. Though we have been to Kokilai from Pulmude side we couldn’t reach the point where the lagoon meets the ocean but this time we didn’t skip that out. It’s really a nice place to have a bath because the water is so calm at this junction. After having a long walk under the sun we returned back to Mullaitivu to have some lunch at a beach side restaurant.

shores of Kokilai

shores of Kokilai

Kokilai lagoon

Kokilai lagoon

gulls

gulls

 bird life at Kokilai lagoon sanctuary

bird life at Kokilai lagoon sanctuary

mini island at kokilai

mini island at kokilai

patterns

patterns

where the lagoon water meets the ocean

where the lagoon water meets the ocean

clean beaches

clean beaches

 nice place to have a bath

nice place to have a bath

shells

shells

miniature mountain cliffs

miniature mountain cliffs

Cost of Mullativu

Cost of Mullativu

Next we reached Vadduvakal Bridge which passes over Nanthi kadal lagoon. At the starting point of the bridge there was a road leading towards Samudragiri RMV where an old sthupa could be seen. From here we headed towards the Puthukkudyiruppu war memorial and museum.

 view from Wadduvakal bridge

view from Wadduvakal bridge

daytime fishing

daytime fishing

trying to sell some fish to me

trying to sell some fish to me

the catch

the catch

use of a kumbuk tree

use of a kumbuk tree

tough life

tough life

Ruined pagoda at Sri samudra giri viharaya

Ruined pagoda at Sri samudra giri viharaya

new pagoda

new pagoda

fishing at nandikadal

fishing at nandikadal

victory monument at Puthukuduiruppu

victory monument at Puthukuduiruppu

Next on list were four tanks (we visited all four tanks during our two days). Just before Vishnu madu we took a left turn to reach Udayarkattukulam tank.

At Vishuvamadu we took a right turn to visit Piramanthanaru tank and a left turn to visit Visuamadu kulam tank.

new tar mac

new tar mac

Udayarkattu kulam lake bund

Udayarkattu kulam lake bund

Udayarkattu kulam

Udayarkattu kulam

ah i plucked this one!

ah i plucked this one!

bicycles with number plates

bicycles with number plates

road leading to Piramanthanaru tank

road leading to Piramanthanaru tank

Piramanthanaru tank

Piramanthanaru tank

dried out

dried out

Visuamadu kulam tank

Visuamadu kulam tank

 the tank of vishnu madu

the tank of vishnu madu

small but lovely

small but lovely

Our next target was a huge reservoir called Kalmadu kulam tank and it was also located in Vishnu madu area. Google maps were our only aid in this venture. After visiting the tanks we headed towards Chundikulam Nature park resort via Iyakachchi junction. It was a difficult 18km ride but totally worth it. Please stay in touch until I publish the details of magical Chundikulam stay.

bund of Visuamadu kulam tank

bund of Visuamadu kulam tank

Bund of Kalmadu kulam

Bund of Kalmadu kulam

Kalmadu kulam

Kalmadu kulam

no elephants were seen

no elephants were seen

we went further

we went further

driving in to the tank

driving in to the tank

 after school

after school

unique to the north

unique to the north

Tantalizing Virgins of Uva – Tour de Waterfalls 18…

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Year and Month 3 Oct, 2015
Number of Days 1

(2nd of a 3-Day Tour)

Crew My Guide (Ashan) and Me
Accommodation Friend’s Place at Monaragala
Transport By Jeep and On Foot
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent till 2pm and heavy rains afterwards
Route Monaragala->Bibila->Lunugala->Passara->Dewathura.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Choose the rainy season if you wanna see rich water levels in the falls.
  • Start as early as possible and plan your journey well.
  • You can either start from Passara then go downhill or vice versa.
  • Some of the water falls are used to provide water to the urban areas. So make sure not to pollute them in anyway.
  • Don’t leave garbage or polythene lying around.
  • Carry some water as drinking from these water sources can be harmful due to various minerals and bacteria in them.
  • Refer to Ashan’s Report for more details.
  • Special thanks to Ashan for Help and Guidance on top of tolerating this crazy wanderer.
  • Check the Video Journeys here. Episode 01, Episode 02, Episode 03 & Episode 04. (Note this includes the videos of the next journey too.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

I woke up one fine morning having spent the previous night at the base of Maragala Mountain Range that is probably one of the longest ranges in Sri Lanka, in Monaragala. I know you must be wondering how on earth I ended up in Monaragala, especially at the base of a mountain range. It’s because I’ve started my story in the middle. I can hear you groan with disappointment wondering what on earth is going on here. “What this mad wonderer is up to now?” you are asking yourselves, aren’t you? Well, just take it easy coz I’m not gonna keep you out of this wonderful experience.

I started my journey the previous day morning, around 3am and after a mixed bag of a day, ended up here at Monaragala sleeping off the weariness of the journey. Well, that’s all about the previous day for now. You can read more about it and the next day in the next report. For now, let’s concentrate on the present and see where I’m gonna take you this time. Waterfalls – one of the sweetest words in English. My heart starts beating faster and leaps with joy every time I hear that word. “You look like the cat that got the milk”, my friends say when they see me. It’s something beyond a passion for me.

It was first week of Jan 2015 when I did my last waterfall hunt and since then there was nothing much when it comes to waterfalls. I had to be content with other attractions while the rains played havoc with all of us. The patterns of the rains have shot to hell making it extremely unreliable and unpredictable. Is it the El Nino or the Global Warming to be blamed? I’ve no idea but I can feel we are heading towards the hell if anything like that exists. If you don’t know what a hell really is, just listen to the Red Indian Leader Seattle for a second.

I’ve shared this before but going to share it again. This quote from Chief Seattle is so good and relevant for the present that it should be put up in big bold letters on every notice board, every household and every office building.

“Only when the last tree has been cut down,

Only when the last river has been poisoned,

Only when the last fish has been caught,

Only then you will realize that money can’t be eaten.”

It is so good and I’ve put it up here for you in bold letters. Hopefully the powers that be will realize this bitter truth before it’s too late, before we are in a position where there would be no turning back.

While I was pondering over the day’s prospects I could hear Ashan shuffling about in the dark. Time was just past 5am and I remembered we agreed to make an early start. So with an effort managed to drag myself out of the reverie and get ready in a very short time. Our plan was to cover the Bibila-Passara stretch of the A5 which is full of waterfalls thanks to Ibban Oya, Kumbukkan Oya and many other waterways. Well I guess, I don’t have to introduce my guide for the day to you, do I? Ashan must’ve been a one of those surveyors in his last life especially in Uva Province. There’s very little that has escaped his tentacles. So what better person than him to be my guide?

I will tell more about the significance of this journey for Ashan in the next journey. Right now, we’re hungry and thirsty so must go find something to eat in Bibila which is about another 20km away. Thankfully the roads were in good condition save for the causeways that brought our intestines to our mouths when the vehicle jumped over them. Ashan knows nothing about ‘slow-and-steady-method’ when it comes to travelling and it’s no different in driving either. We covered the distance in a short time and my stopped for one of the lousiest breakfasts I’ve ever had during my travels. Oh dear, what would I have given for those egg sandwiches, fish cutlets, boiled cassava with hot chilies, etc. we had during our travels to HP with Ana and Co.?

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Pahanawala aka Panawala Ella, Bibila.
  2. Mudiyala Kandura, Mudiyala.
  3. Naya Kandura Ella aka 32 Ella, Malaputuwala, Alawaththagoda.
  4. Arawakumbura Dunhinda Ella, Arawakumbura.
  5. Besamwala Bathing Place and Cascades, Yapamma, Hopton.
  6. Rodakadanguwa Ella, Peessagama.
  7. Peessa Ella, Peessagama.
  8. Adi 60 Wala Ella, Hopton.

Ok, are you ready? Let’s head along Bibila-Passara Road aka A5 which is one of the longest and key highways in Sri Lanka but probably one of the worst A Grade roads as well, especially the stretch we’re gonna cover today. We’ve got the best mode of transport for the road, a Mitsubishi Jeep which is known among Ashan’s friends as the CTB Bus. Ok, hop in and hold tight.

Pahanawala Ella aka Panawala Ella.

We drove towards the Unagolla RMV where Hitihami Mudiyanselage Rate Raala killed the then British Agent of Uva Province, Sylvester Douglas Wilson on 16 Sep 1817 during the Kandyan Rebellion. Even today you can see the memorial placed just before the temple right by the road and a statue of Rate Raala at the entrance to the temple grounds. There’s so much history buried in Uva-Wellassa area. In fact Wellassa means Wel Lakshaya or One Hundred Thousand Paddy Fields where they supplied the whole country during the fights against Elara by our King Dutugemunu the Great. Would you like to see a few pictures?

Here's the memorial

Here’s the memorial

Close up

Close up

Some note in Sinhala too

Some note in Sinhala too

We then reached the point where we had to get downhill to the left about 50m to reach the top of Pahanawala Ella. This is located just before the 185th km post and about 4-5km from Bibila. Pahanawala Ella has got her name due to the shape of her base pool as it is similar to a lamp. Some even call it Panawala Ella too. She’s being fed by the Ibban Oya which is a main tributary to the mighty Gal Oya that ends at Senanayake Samudraya having travelled through the Gal Oya National Park and creating a mysterious rocky formation popularly known as “Makare”.

There’s another gorgeous lady created by Ibban Oya some way upstream in Arawakumbura Village known as Arawakumbura Dunhinda Ella. Oh hold it right there coz don’t get too excited and start wondering about her now. Right now, let’s go see this sexy lass known as Pahanawala Ella and I promise I’ll take you to the Arawakumbura Dunhinda Ella little later. So be patient folks and be careful when you get down as the path is slippery and keep an eye out for the tiniest surveyors in the whole world. Ok, for those who don’t know about the smallest surveyors in the world, they’re known as Leeches where they keep coming to you measuring the distance between you and them. You don’t trust me, do you? Wait till you see them if you haven’t already.

We arrived at the top of this beauty whose beauty is somewhat tarnished by an irrigation canal by diverting water. I couldn’t be cross with that coz these areas get very little water by rain and the farmers need every drop they can get hold of to grow their plants and feed the 20+ million hungry mouths in the mango-shaped island. She was falling in two sections on either side with a space about 10ft between them. From where we stood we could see the right hand side but not the left hand one so Ashan kept going slowly towards the left parallel to the water stream to get a better look.

In the meantime I was busy taking this beauty in the early morning while sun bathed the green leaves slick with water from the previous night. The smell of the wet earth carried by the soft wind went through my nostrils all the way to the brain and it made my hair sit on their roots. Not that I have a lot of hair though. After a few pictures and admiring this beauty I headed along the general direction where Ashan went but found him already snapping from the downstream about 20m from the falls. Before I go off my head and run towards him, see a few pictures of her.

Here we are

Here we are

She's cute, isn't she?

She’s cute, isn’t she?

Water overflowing from the irrigation canal

Water overflowing from the irrigation canal

Need to go down for a better look

Need to go down for a better look

The main part falling to the base and look at the rock formations

The main part falling to the base and look at the rock formations

If only we could get there

If only we could get there

Better view

Better view

Time to get down

Time to get down

I felt elated and hurried along the slippery rocky surface before finding a rope knotted to a huge wine to get down to the water about 12ft below. It was just an ordinary coconut mat rope but had held Ashan’s weight. So I knew it’d hold me just fine as Ashan was probably one and half times heavier than I am. I was for the first time glad that Hari wasn’t with us coz he’s easily three times my weight and the rope would’ve broken like a dry twig had he put even the weight of his arms.

I managed to get down with no incident and joined Ashan. “Oh my my” was the first thing that came to my mind and I’d spoken it out loud coz Ashan looked at me bewildered wondering if I might have injured myself. She looked absolutely sensational and even Ashan who’s roamed around Uva as if in a trance not leaving any stone unturned, hadn’t been to the base before. So we both enjoyed like a pair of cats that got the milk. The overhanging branches of a tree added a great mixture of green to the white of the falls and the muddy greenish river with metal grey stones doing the finishing touches.

A picture painted in heaven and sent down to the earth in a wet canvas. Oh baby, such beauty is unheard of and unseen before. We spent as long as time permitted, even though could easily have stayed the rest of the day, and got back on the path uphill maneuvering with a difficulty up the rope which is strictly off limits to Hariya. Ok, while we get back to the road and get going, you folks enjoy this beauty. I’ve been very liberal with the pictures and don’t forget to enjoy the videos as well coz you’ll find Ashan doing a commentary (probably for the first time in his one and half centuries travels) as well.

There a better view

There a better view

Close up

Close up

Base pool and see the garbage collected at the end

Base pool and see the garbage collected at the end

Where we had to climb down

Where we had to climb down

Greenish tinge to the water

Greenish tinge to the water

Look, she's trying to hide

Look, she’s trying to hide

No hiding from us baby

No hiding from us baby

I'm afraid these pictures don't do enough justice to her beauty

I’m afraid these pictures don’t do enough justice to her beauty

See both sections?

See both sections?

There goes Ibban Oya in search of Gal Oya

There goes Ibban Oya in search of Gal Oya

Time to go

Time to go

Ready for it

Ready for it

There he goes

There he goes

Mudiyala Kandura Cascades

This is something where I needed the expertise of my guide and he knew where to go without me having to waste so much of time asking here and there. We travelled for about 1km from Pahanawala Ella and turned to the right at the 184/4 Bokkuwa (Don’t I just love these signs coz it’d simply be impossible for you to find your way in the future when you go to see these beauties). This is the road that goes to Kotagama where there’s another famous bathing place but we didn’t attempt to go there as our primary target was the silken beauties of Uva.

We travelled until we came to a paddy field to the left. There was also a narrow road adjoining it to the left with a rudimentary bus stop right by the main road. We stopped the Jeep and started walking and the lush greenery of the paddy fields were to our right and in the far distance appeared the mountain range of Madolsima beyond which lies Kohonawala where I’ve seen my quota of share. You will see the notice of Mudiyala Grama Niladhari’s on your way and keep going for about 600m on this road till you reach a mega site of a gem mine at the end of the paddy fields across the stream.

There was a small dam built to diver the water towards the village and we walked along it and hit the stream. Oh on our way along the cement wall there came a dog running from the mine and met me in the middle. The wall was so narrow and there was no way he could’ve walked past me so without stopping to slow he jumped right into the water and swam past me and got back on the cement wall. Gosh what a sight it was and we both couldn’t stop laughing.

We then walked along the stream and despite heavy rains it was easy to walk without getting my shoes wet. The mine to our right has been working for a long time and the workers were just getting up for the day’s work. The rocks were slippery and we sang “Hickery Dickery Dock – Slippery Slippery Rocks” as we went along.

We walked upstream for about 400m till we reached the first cascade of Mudiyala Kandura. She was small and falling into a tiny base pool. Had I come alone or with someone else, we’d have turned around here but Ashan said the main cascade is about a short distance upstream so we climbed more rocky boulders before arriving at the main one that fell in two sections.

However the lighting was not so great due to the thick roof cover so after a short stay we retraced our steps. On the way we found several pits which had been abandoned carelessly after digging for gems. The destruction they’ve done to the environment is so much I wonder why no authorities take any action against them. Gosh, we need to free our government organizations from the clutches of the corrupt and ignorant politicians as soon as possible before we fall below South Sudan’s levels. Ok, here are the pictures.

Paddy fields I told you about

Paddy fields I told you about

Another sign post

Another sign post

Well, some sort of typical village thing I guess

Well, some sort of typical village thing I guess

Towards the edge of Madolsima

Towards the edge of Madolsima

Not ready yet

Not ready yet

No walls to put up notices

No walls to put up notices

The path goes on

The path goes on

Here's the water stream

Here’s the water stream

Just near the first cascade

Just near the first cascade

There she is and I'm sorry about the quality of the pics due to poor lighting

There she is and I’m sorry about the quality of the pics due to poor lighting

Closer look

Closer look

Here the elder sisters

Here the elder sisters

Even she looks better in real life

Even she looks better in real life

Base pool

Base pool

Portrait

Portrait

Time to go and we later heard that there are bigger ones upstream but very difficult to reach them

Time to go and we later heard that there are bigger ones upstream but very difficult to reach them

Back on the path

Back on the path

Their life goes on

Their life goes on

Naya Kandura Ella aka 32 Ella

We got back to the A5 and drove up towards Alawaththagoda. At the 182/6 Bridge which is located in Malaputuwala Village we stopped the Jeep and went to the water stream to the right. This bridge is one of the few newly done bridges on this road with ready-made materials and located between 31st and 32nd Mile Posts. As a result this falls is also known as 32 Ella in addition to her real name Naya Kandura Ella.

As soon as you get to the stream, you will see the dam built to collect the water and then divert it to Bibila using a huge and long pipeline. Please be kind enough not to litter around this area or relieve yourselves as we shouldn’t be making the people in Bibila sick with diarrhea or hepatitis. Ashan said that Monaragala suffered a major outbreak of Hepatitis as a result of a few line houses scattered closer to the water supply of the city. So be extra careful not only when you go along the rocky path but also with the things you do. About 100m from the road you’ll find this sensual girl so close to the main road but cleverly hidden from the prying eyes.

She was in full flow and we managed to get closer without slipping on the rocks (remember our song, Hickery Dickery Dock – Slippery Slippery Rocks). Nobody travelling on the road would know such beauty existed so closer to them unless they knew about her. I fell in love with the moment I saw her. The base pool looked deep and was large but you’re requested not to attempt to bathe here. Well, you should not attempt to bathe at any such places unless you’re absolutely sure they are safe or villagers use them. Remember, your safety comes first and you must get back in one piece to tell your story of glory not a tragedy.

We stayed looking her over until Ashan nudged me and reminded that we have a long way to go and the rains will come around 2pm. Gosh he should’ve joined the Met Dept. instead of choosing medicine coz as it turned out the rains came exactly at 2pm. So we have to go see them before it rains and jeopardize our chances of seeing the ladies in their new costumes. Until then, you guys enjoy the pictures.

The bridge I told you about

The bridge I told you about

Just got to the stream and the path to the falls is to the left from here

Just got to the stream and the path to the falls is to the left from here

There she is all dressed up

There she is all dressed up

So beautiful

So beautiful

Wide angle

Wide angle

Portrait

Portrait

The top of her

The top of her

The mid-section

The mid-section

And the base pool

And the base pool

No bathing please

No bathing please

Time to go sweet heart

Time to go sweet heart

But one pic with me

But one pic with me

If you can make out why I took this pic, please let me know

If you can make out why I took this pic, please let me know

Where we had some tea

Where we had some tea

View towards the East

View towards the East

Arawakumbura Dunhinda Ella

We had a cup of plain tea and some roti from the shop near the bridge before starting our journey. After a short distance we passed the district boundary of Monaragala and Badulla. Just as you pass you’ll see a signage put up by the Uva Provincial Tourism Ministry to the left saying Arawakumbura Ella. It looks like the Uva PC had taken some trouble to promote these beauties to the visitors even building some paths and observation points. So thank you for whoever initiated these and hopefully they will continue to improve on them. However, please make sure you leave the nature unharmed in the process and try to curb illegal activities such as logging and mining.

No. 180/2 Bokkuwa is located here as well so you simply can’t miss this beauty even if you wanted to. From the sign, take the path downhill which goes through a private property of Pepper Creepers and Areca Nut Trees but the owners won’t mind so long as you behaved yourselves. You can see the falls in the distance about 300m away. Despite the distance, it offers a full portrait view of the falls and there’s a road about 500m from the signage that goes to the left where you can use to go to the top of the falls.

We even saw a lady drying her clothes on the top so had to take extra precautions to avoid the bright red and yellow clothes playing silly with the pictures. Hope you can remember I told you before at Pahanawala Ella that this lass is also borne by the Ibban Oya before joining with Gal Oya. Well, this is some fall coz she’s tall and beautiful.  There was ample water thanks to the rains and we enjoyed her to the fullest except the clothes drying at the top of her. Look at these and tell me what you think. Isn’t she adorable and kissable?

The signposting, thanks a lot Uva PC

The signposting, thanks a lot Uva PC

Just there is this

Just there is this

Oh look at her

Oh look at her

Such beauty!

Such beauty!

See the lady on top in red?

See the lady on top in red?

The head and shoulders

The head and shoulders

Lower body

Lower body

She was majestic and just imagine when she's in her full flow

She was majestic and just imagine when she’s in her full flow

Another look at the top

Another look at the top

Time to go baby

Time to go baby

Besamwala Bathing Place and Cascades

Our next stop was at Besamwala which is one of the many bathing places in Uva where one can enjoy a cool dip in safety. When coming from Bibila, you’ll find a notice (thanks to the Uva PC) announcing the place to the right. This is about 3-4km before Lunugala Town. Travel this road for about 2km before arriving at a bridge where you need to stop the vehicle (if you come by one) and take the steps just passing the bridge to the right.

The road is in good condition but extremely narrow. There’s hardly any point where two vehicles can go past each other and we were lucky to have not come across any. The water levels were healthy and there were two cascades formed by the stream. The bathing spot is on top of the first one and at the base of the second cascade. The water levels of the pool had risen making it probably more than 5ft in depth but still it looked a safe place for a bath.

You will feel the cool water inviting you to shed the clothes and jump right in but we resisted the temptation. There was nobody there leaving the whole place for us completely and we got to enjoy this beauty to the fullest. The good thing was even Ashan hadn’t seen such healthy water levels before so this was an unforgettable journey for him as well. I know you’re getting impatient to see this place so here are the pictures. Now don’t start blaming us for not having a dip in such a grandeur place. We still have a long way to go and the time is catching up with us. We could see the black clouds coming from the mountains in Madolsima threatening to break open the sky.

It is a very safe place

It is a very safe place

Where we parked the vehicle

Where we parked the vehicle

This is across the bridge

This is across the bridge

What are those?

What are those?

Read carefully

Read carefully

Lower base pool, note not here where you can have a bath

Lower base pool, note not here where you can have a bath

Lower cascade with a canoe-shaped base

Lower cascade with a canoe-shaped base

Portrait

Portrait

Narrow pool

Narrow pool

Going up to the main bathing place

Going up to the main bathing place

The lower cascade from the top

The lower cascade from the top

The top cascade

The top cascade

Closer look

Closer look

Another angle

Another angle

Here's the pool, large and about 5ft deep towards the falls

Here’s the pool, large and about 5ft deep towards the falls

Time we went

Time we went

Rodakadanguwa Ella

Now I know what’s going in your mind. What a weird name for a waterfall, isn’t it? I’ll tell you what a villager said about how the name came about. Apparently one of the estate managers, an Englishman had fallen off his horse cart near this place giving it the name and we just followed suit and called her the Rodakadanguwa Ella. In fact she’s a series of cascades that fall in majestically on her way. She’s borne by the Kumbukkan River and further downhill makes the mighty Peessa Ella. As soon as I heard the name I remembered my grandmother using the names “Padanguwa”. The old folks used this word to describe clothes which had been used many times and are at the verge of falling apart. They used the same thing for old rope sacks “Goni Padanguwa”.

Having resumed our journey we came to the junction where there’s a prominent sign board announcing Peessa Ella is 5km away to the left. Without a second thought we turned to the well carpeted road. Driving downhill we saw a waterfall in the distance to the left and Ashan exclaimed that she could be the Yodakadanguwa or something as he’d heard about her during his previous visit but not got the time to pay a visit.

So we stopped by the main bridge across Kumbukkan Oya to ask one of the villagers what it was. He confirmed it was the Yodakadanguwa (well it can be misheard as Yodakadanguwa when in fact it is Rodakadanguwa) and showed us the road. One needs to travel for about 2.5km along the road and take a left uphill concrete paved road in front of a transformer. You then have to travel for another 2km along this road (just note that there are odd patches where no concrete is available which can be awkward for low clearance vehicles) till the Peessagama Grama Niladhari Office with a small playing ground.

Unless yours is a 4WD or 3WD, this is where you gotta leave your vehicle and start walking along the wide but typical estate road full of jutting out rocks and pot holes. We got the directions from one of the villagers who said it’s about 500m and then we’ll have to get to the water through the Mana bushes which can be very vicious and scrape you so bad you’d wish you were dead. Always make sure to cover your body with long cargo pants and long-sleeved T-shirts if you travel through the Mana bushes. Also keeping a thick stick about 4ft in length in front of you as a shield to bend the plants as you move forward is a good idea.

We first of all lost the way as we went too far and had to turn around. So let’s not get into that now. About 500m from the playground you will come to a small drain across the road and your best bet is to follow the tree patch along the stream to the main water body which is about 150m downhill but can feel like half a km. However we made the mistake of approaching it a bit farther away through the Mana and managed to have a few dozens of the thorns embedded in our exposed skin. They hurt like hell but finally we walked across instead of downhill and met the tiny stream and followed the slippery rocks.

With a greater difficulty we reached the water and were mesmerized by what we saw. All the pain and trouble we took was worth it. The whole river flowed down through the rocks making a huge roar as if a Boeing 747 was taking off in full throttle. Unfortunately we got to the top of the falls and there was no way down to the base. If there was slightest the opportunity, we would’ve attempted it but the risks were enormous. So we took a few pictures and turned around. Here are some of the pictures for you to see but they don’t say half the story.

The signage just by the A5

The signage just by the A5

Granite walls where we asked for directions

Granite walls where we asked for directions

The place where we reversed and got back

The place where we reversed and got back

Ok, if you can make out the place in future

Ok, if you can make out the place in future

Butterfly

Butterfly

Where we got to the water and note the diversion

Where we got to the water and note the diversion

Beginning to fall down

Beginning to fall down

There she goes

There she goes

The river goes on to make Peessa Ella

The river goes on to make Peessa Ella

The best view we could get of the upper cascades

The best view we could get of the upper cascades

She is tall and has many cascades, need to come from along the river

She is tall and has many cascades, need to come from along the river

Rocky outcrop made it difficult to get to the base

Rocky outcrop made it difficult to get to the base

Let's get going

Let’s get going

Mushrooms among leeches

Mushrooms among leeches

Lonely road

Lonely road

Already looking gloomy

Already looking gloomy

In the distance

In the distance

Close up

Close up

Peessa Ella

We got back into the vehicle and drove slowly and saw the mountains to the right rising with clouds covering them. We wanted to see if we could get a proper view of the whole set of cascades and stopped about 200m away and got down. The view was ok but not satisfactory so Ashan got on top the Jeep and took a few decent pictures. Here are some pictures of the opportunity.

He couldn't resist it any longer

He couldn’t resist it any longer

There a better vantage point

There a better vantage point

One of the pics he took with my camera

One of the pics he took with my camera

See the tiny cascades falling beautifully

See the tiny cascades falling beautifully

Zoomed in view

Zoomed in view

Another

Another

Time to get down and go

Time to get down and go

We then got back on the main road and drove towards the falls. Like Rodakadanguwa Peessa Bride originates thanks to the raging Kumbukkan Oya and falls almost 100m right down to the base. About 5.5km from the A5 we arrived at the point but you can easily miss it coz there’s no sign near the steps. There’s a U bend after 5.5km and this is where you gotta stop and look for the steps to the right. Keep your eyes peeled off so that you won’t miss it. Someone had made an attempt to carve a sign in Sinhala on the bark of the tree at the head of the steps. The steps had been recently done and in good condition. You have to climb down for about 300-400m before arriving at the viewing point.

I remembered the path to Sera Ella and then Kirindi Ella. However this was well maintained compared to the Kirindi Ella and I always wonder why the relevant local government bodies introduce a ticketing system to enter these places. The money earned from the visitors could be used to pay the wages of the people employed and maintain the paths. However, it’s not an easy task as the person working at the ticket counter can easily charge the visitors without issuing tickets (very much like public car parks in Colombo) making the whole project collapse.

We walked and found the Hydro Power Plant about halfway down. Well, I’m not gonna talk about my hatred to these things now coz it serves no purpose. The water stream which had been diverted to the power house was gushing through the concrete channel at such speeds I was scared it would blast the whole canal into million pieces. Passing that we came to the point where the concrete canal has been sloped to get the water from the top and here it was another rich waterfall even though she was artificial. Ashan named her Peessa Canal Falls.

From here the path downhill was steeper very much like Kirindi Ella and whoever built it had done a superb job trying to keep the nature around it intact. It was a pleasure to walk on and we could hear the Peessa Manamali (Bride) falling down with a huge roar. I was beginning to lose patience and my heart started doing summersaults beating faster than a Concorde Jet. We got down to find another group of people waiting at the platform and I ran past them and stopped dead the moment I saw this tantalizingly beautiful Mother Nature’s creation.

“Oh my gosh, how on earth I stayed all this time without coming to see this one?” I asked myself. She was falling in one long jump sending millions of tiny water droplets spraying the surrounding. I wish I could hug her. The color of her was like the milk drawn in the morning from a young cow after her calf had had his share. Ok, now you would want to know how on earth you’re supposed to know the color of that. Me and my idioms just don’t worry. She was pure white and this long white silken cloth fell seamlessly over the rocky wall and scattered on the ground like a glass.

This is not a sight to be missed so folks, you gotta make the journey especially during the rainy season and go see the beauty of our country has in store for us. There’s no such place on earth like this tiny island where you can practically experience anything worth having. We madly took pictures all over and did another documentary. Ashan is improving I can tell  you in his narrations but not quite in the class of Hari and Tony but he’s getting there and needs more practice. Ashan pointed out a rocky cave about one third from the top behind the water and said that it could be accessed from a different path. Maybe another day and time I decided. So I’m not gonna keep you guessing anymore. Here’s the beauty of the Mother Nature.

The scratching on the tree bark

The scratching on the tree bark

The steps built

The steps built

View towards Monaragala, can see the falls towards the right among the greenery

View towards Monaragala, can see the falls towards the right among the greenery

Close up

Close up

The water flow after the power house

The water flow after the power house

In the middle you see is the Maragala Range in Monaragala and I stayed near the base towards the left

In the middle you see is the Maragala Range in Monaragala and I stayed near the base towards the left

We followed the trail

We followed the trail

Just after the power house

Just after the power house

There it is, and the water gushing through that narrow gorge was ferocious

There it is, and the water gushing through that narrow gorge was ferocious

"Peessa Canal Falls" according to Ashan, this is diverted from the top

“Peessa Canal Falls” according to Ashan, this is diverted from the top

It was fearsome

It was fearsome

Getting down along the path which is well maintained

Getting down along the path which is well maintained

Looking back, reminds me of Sera Ella

Looking back, reminds me of Sera Ella

Keeping the natural beauty intact

Keeping the natural beauty intact

The cave complex

The cave complex

See the falls

See the falls

Close up

Close up

Platform

Platform

We are here

We are here

Oh beauty!

Oh beauty!

Her little sister to the right

Her little sister to the right

The top

The top

Below

Below

Rocky base

Rocky base

Milky way

Milky way

Simply stunning

Simply stunning

Tree branches across making it more beautiful

Tree branches across making it more beautiful

If it wasn't for the railing, we'd have fallen over

If it wasn’t for the railing, we’d have fallen over

You can't get enough of her

You can’t get enough of her

Here we are

Here we are

Trying to lean on her

Trying to lean on her

Ashan the Caveman inspecting a prospective shelter

Ashan the Caveman inspecting a prospective shelter

There he goes

There he goes

Likens and moss

Likens and moss

Going up was very exhausting

Going up was very exhausting

Was waiting for us

Was waiting for us

Old signs still along the road

Old signs still along the road

Adi 60 Wala Ella

We then got back to our vehicle and uphill journey was really tiring and we were battered by the strenuous hike to see the Rodakadanguwa and as Ashan wisely pointed out if we had done the Peessa first we wouldn’t have dared going downhill to see the Rodakadanguwa. So if you’re faced with two difficult situations, it’s advisable to choose the most difficult first coz the less difficult one will look more appealing after the strenuous one.

We then drove towards the 19th Mile Post Junction in Hopton along A5. There’s a tuk-tuk park and a shop on the left side with the name, “Ayingaran Stores?” (I got the spelling right so don’t worry about it). From this junction, take the concrete paved road to the right and go about 1.5km before coming to a point where you can see the upper section of the falls in the distance and then start walking. Ashan has sweet memories of this place where he’d been crawling along the stream to the waterfall about 1km when he should’ve taken this road. What to do, you sometimes learn the lessons in the hard way. If you wonder why I picked Ashan as my guide, you now know why. Where he’d had to work like a slave to get to the falls, I was going in the comfort of the front seat of a Mitsubishi driven by my driver cum guide.

Unfortunately about 1km up, we came across an obstacle where the road was blocked by the lorry unloading sand. So we left the Jeep and started walking. The clouds looked menacingly down at us as if to warn us. We walked fast and found a group of kids hanging around and as we passed one of them called out “Photo”. So we stopped and got them to pose for a picture and promised to publish it on the newspaper.

Afterwards, we walked the last bit to the base of the upper part of the falls. Ashan had reached the bottom before but we could get a decent view of the bottom section from the path itself. On the other hand we were exhausted and hard pressed for time to go see her from the base. Instead having pictured her we reached the base of the top half.

If you wonder why she’s called Adi 60 Wala Ella, it’s coz of the depth of the base pool which is according to the folklore about 60ft in depth. This hasn’t been verified by anyone so you’d have to go with the flow. Ok, enough of my ranting about, here are the pictures. Hurry up coz we need to get back before the heavens open up and drench us.

The boys who asked to be photographed

The boys who asked to be photographed

Pink and Blue houses

Pink and Blue houses

Now the sky is really angry with us

Now the sky is really angry with us

The falls in the distance

The falls in the distance

Lower part where Ashan had crawled up to last time

Lower part where Ashan had crawled up to last time

Zoomed in view

Zoomed in view

Surrounding

Surrounding

Surrounding

Surrounding

The top where we could easily get to

The top where we could easily get to

Portrait

Portrait

The top

The top

Base

Base

Sensual, ain't she?

Sensual, ain’t she?

Do you think the depth is 60ft?

Do you think the depth is 60ft?

Another angle

Another angle

Goes downstream to create the lower section

Goes downstream to create the lower section

Time to go sweet heart

Time to go sweet heart

Rare beauties

Rare beauties

50:50 Goat, black and white – In fact Ashan had to imitate their sound of “Bahhhhhhhhhhh” to get the bugger to pose

50:50 Goat, black and white – In fact Ashan had to imitate their sound of “Bahhhhhhhhhhh” to get the bugger to pose

Ancient signs still on the road

Ancient signs still on the road

Started raining just as we called it a day

Started raining just as we called it a day

As soon as we were safely inside the Jeep, the rain started and kept up till we got to Passara where according to Ashan harbors the highest number of Piaggio tuk-tuks. Oh Passara is Ashan’t most favorite town as well. He simply loves it and even when he hears the name Passara, he looks very eager and hopeful. Remember to ask him why he loves Passara so much if you come across him. I won’t be responsible for the aftershocks though.

We had lunch at Passara and bought some provisions for dinner and headed towards Dewathura, another remote but unbelievably beautiful village in Sri Lanka hidden behind Namunukula. We’d spend our night in this beautiful village before exploring what she has to offer. Well it’s gonna be the next report when I’ll be telling you about my Day 1 and Day 3.

Well, folks, I hope you like the story I told you. It felt so good to be back with the veiled princesses and I enjoyed it to no end. Wait for the next report where I’ll bring more of them to you and some of them only seen through Ashan’s eyes before. Thanks to my guide, I managed to make a grand tour in Monaragala and Badulla.

Well, I’ll see you soon and until then take care and keep travelling. This is Sri saying good bye for now.

The Power of Raging Torrents – Tour de Waterfalls 19…

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Year and Month 3 Oct, 2015
Number of Days 2

(1st and 3rd of a 3-Day Tour)

Crew Day 1

2 Tuk-Tuk Drivers (Ranga in Hunuketiya and Chamika in Buduruwagala)

Day 3

My Guide (Ashan) and Me

Accommodation Friend’s Place at Monaragala & Dewathura
Transport By Bus, Tuk-Tuk, Jeep and On Foot
Activities Archaeology, Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent till afternoon around 2pm and heavy rains afterwards
Route Day 1

Colombo->Bandarawela->Ella->Hunuketiya->Randeniya->Wellawaya->Buduruwagala.

Day 3

Dewathura->Passara->Badalkumbura->Buttala->Monaragala->Colombo.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Choose the rainy season if you wanna see rich water levels in the falls.
  • Start as early as possible and plan your journey well.
  • You can either start from Passara then go downhill or vice versa.
  • Some of the water falls are used to provide water to the urban areas. So make sure not to pollute them in anyway.
  • Don’t leave garbage or polythene lying around.
  • Carry some water as drinking from these water sources can be harmful due to various minerals and bacteria in them.
  • Refer to Ashan’s Report for more details.
  • Check out the Day 2 Report here.
  • Ranga is a helpful contact at Hunuketiya (072-1242003) and Chamika at Buduruwagala (071-7803743)
  • Special thanks to Ashan for Help and Guidance.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hi folks! Hope you are ready for the next episode of Waterfall Hunting in the Uva Province. I hope you enjoyed the Day 2 and I’m going to tell you about the Day 1 & 3.

Not seeing a waterfall for some time is like living without an aim for me. I simply adore them and when it starts raining out of nowhere my mind starts to protest. Thankfully there is no Lipton Circus in my mind otherwise I would have had to call on the riots cops with water cannons, tear gas and batons to restore the law and order.

Now the rain patterns are shot to pieces making it extremely unstable and not reliable. However the downpours that started in late September seems to have more power than I thought. As a result one of my much awaited tours had to be brought forward. The waterfalls in Uva had been evading me for years mainly my focus was on elsewhere and they were too far away. I just wanted to make sure I cover as many of them as possible in one solid journey but it didn’t seem to come anytime soon.

Suddenly the rains appeared and I got tempted as usual. So I decided to seek professional advice before making the 250+km journey. When it comes to Uva, there is nobody better than Ashan. I wonder if there is a place where the fellow hasn’t been in the area. So I called to find him still honeymooning in Mullaittivu. He promised to get back as soon as he went back to Monaragala while I tried to get someone to join me.

Most of them were too busy but I was hopeful about Shareez who had come back to Sri Lanka on holiday and was ready to go for a grand journey. Last time I managed to take him to see Asupini Ella. Unfortunately he pulled out at the eleventh hour due to personal commitments leaving me in the forlorn hope that something miraculous would come by. As a matter of fact a magical thing happened. Ashan’s planned exploration to Maduru Oya got cancelled and he agreed to play the guide for me on Saturday and Sunday leaving me to fend off for myself on Friday. Something was better than nothing so I prepared in a couple of hours to leave on the wee hours of Friday.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Wisari Ella, Hunuketiya.
  2. Elle Wala Ella, Randeniya.
  3. Kaluwala Ella aka Ice Peella Ella, Wellawaya.
  4. Buduruwagala, Wellawaya.
  5. Habaraththawa Cascades, Dewathura.
  6. Kandahena Cascades, Dewathura.
  7. Aradunu Ella, Passara.
  8. Pareiyan Ella, Badalkumbura.
  9. Menik Ganga Dunhinda Mini Falls, Badalkumbura.
  10. Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella, Badalkumbura.

Day 01

The Badulla bus took off slower than I wanted and my attempts to fall asleep were turned out to be futile. The sun peeped around the corner when we reached Balangoda. From there falling asleep was simply impossible coz of the gorgeous range of mountains to the left from Pettigala towards Kalupahana where Wangedigala, Balathuduwa and Gon Molliya stood proudly above the rest. Sweet memories of Bambarakanda and Nagrak came flooding to my stream of thoughts. Boy, have I enjoyed them!

I kept my eyes peeled for Brampton Falls and Surathali Ella just to get an idea about the water levels. Passing Belihul Oya what I saw pained my heart to no end. It was nothing extraordinary but a small stream slowly going downwards. “Where on earth all the water had gone?” I wanted to scream. Then came two major heartbreaks one after the other. Brampton Falls looked sad and no wider than a coconut tree. Surathali had lost her mischievous behavior and slid down the rocky crevice as if she didn’t care anymore for attention.

I was getting frantic and almost jumped out to return to Colombo. “Have patience” the calm side of my brain said. “Get the hell outta here fast” the panicky side screamed in the back of my head. I took a deep breath and weighed the options and decided to listen to the calm side. “You will be sorry” the impatient side mocked me. I’ll just go do what I’d planned to see today and return if it turned out to be hopeless, I decided and sat back to get a rest.  Finally after a long journey I reached B’Wela just after 8.30am. Without wasting any more time, I got into a Wellawaya bus and settled. Without even my knowing, I’d fallen asleep and missed seeing the Bambaragama Ella too. When I got up, we were passing the turn off to Kurullangala.

Wisari Ella

I’ll give you the directions first. Hunuketiya is about 14km from Wellawaya in Uva Karandagolla area. There is also a sign board put up by the Uva PC. Wisari Ella is on the Hunuketiya-Kurugama-Bambaragasyaya Road about 3km from Hunuketiya junction. Best method of transport is to hire a tuk-tuk from the junction. If you go in your own vehicle, by a car, you can go up to Kurugama village or with a high ground clearance vehicle all the way to Bambaragasyaya. There is also a single bus operating between Wellawaya and Kurugama (No. 998) but couldn’t get the exact times.

I did the sensible thing on Ashan’s advice and hired a tuk-tuk. The driver was a friendly person called Ranga and we drove up to the last house where you have to start walking along an irrigation canal for about 400m. The path is now well paved and easy to reach the falls. We met one Mini Hydro Power Plant and Ranga informed that it is now redundant after the main power supply came to the area and he went onto say that the village used to have three such power plants. However all of them have been made redundant since the arrival of national grid. Hurrah!!! I felt like dancing.

We could also see the rocky hill where Kurullangala is. The memories of our back-breaking journey in the recent past sent a shiver down my back. Ranga said that there’s even a path from the top of the Wisari Ella to the Rakkiththakanda Cave Temple where we went last time before the hike. Project sites of Uma Oya could be seen in the distance and the water in the streams has turned into an unusual white color after the ammonia mixed with it as a result of tunnels dug out to take water for the Uma Oya Project. That was quite visible even to the naked eye.

We got to the falls in no time but what I saw made me cry. There was very little water in her as if coming from a blocked tap. She is tall and the rocky surface is ample but the water level was abysmal. “Oh dear! Did I just come 250km after some 7hrs to see this?” I felt. This was worse than even St. Claire after the Upper Kotmale Project. “Didn’t it rain here at all?” I exclaimed out of sheer frustration. “It did but as this is not the regular season (Nov to Jan), the water levels are low” replied Ranga.

I was beginning to realize that after all the negative side was correct and I should have turned around while I could. Now it was too late and no going back until I finished the day. Look at these pictures and tell me if I was right to be frustrated.

Already dark clouds developing

Already dark clouds developing

Towards Badulla

Towards Badulla

Should be ready soon

Should be ready soon

Redundant power plant

Redundant power plant

Going rusty

Going rusty

Well maintained

Well maintained

Oh, not the sight I was hoping for

Oh, not the sight I was hoping for

Abysmal, isn't it?

Abysmal, isn’t it?

When in full flow, she must look gorgeous

When in full flow, she must look gorgeous

Portrait

Portrait

The upper part

The upper part

Wishing for more water and left

Wishing for more water and left

Gorgeous looking

Gorgeous looking

Beautiful views

Beautiful views

See anything familiar?

See anything familiar?

Kurullangala, the mysterious cave paintings

Kurullangala, the mysterious cave paintings

Know what they are? Amu Kaha flowers

Know what they are? Amu Kaha flowers

My first thought was an Orchid

My first thought was an Orchid

Time to go

Time to go

Didn't taste that good coz of the rain

Didn’t taste that good coz of the rain

Elle Wala Ella

We returned to Hunuketiya but on the way Ranga said that there’s a path through the jungle where it leads to the top of Elle Wala Ella. I was very excited and asked if he could find someone to take me there. Unfortunately his cousin brother didn’t share the same enthusiasm so we had to give up the idea. This path could have been one used by the Sinhala forces on their way to massacre the Portuguese invaders at Randeniwela.

I then decided to take the tuk-tuk all the way to Randeniya just to save time and trouble of having to find the falls on my own. Lemme give you the directions first.

Randeniya junction is about 3km from Wellawaya along Ella road. There is a school named J. M. Kumaradasa. With it there’s a road to the left (when coming from Wellawaya). The pillars of Iran-Sri Lanka are also located nearby should you happen to miss the school. Take this road for about 3km. You will find the reservoir for the Uma Oya is being built on the way and the road goes at the edge of the would-be water body. There is hardly anyone to ask the road so make sure you have your bearings right. You will then meet a village and take the left side path (not quite visible from the road at a glance) as soon as you pass the first house to your left. That is how we were given the directions by one of the people we met. This is where you have to leave your vehicle coz this is 3WD/4WD terrain. There are houses on either side so you can get directions. It’s another 1km before you reach the last house at the end of the road. From here you need to take the footpath (well used) parallel to the water stream (on your right) for another 400-500m to reach the destination.

I hope you got it right. So let’s go and see what she has to offer. There was nothing positive for me for the whole day since I started my journey but the moment I saw her I felt I was human after all. Two puppies followed us from the last house and they too looked awed by the beauty in front of them. She reminds me of Dunhinda (the actual one) but a smaller version. She was falling from left to right where as the original Dunhinda falls other way around.

The base pool looked huge and gradually increased the depth towards the falls. The surrounding is devoid of any disturbing activity save for a anicut built downstream to take the water but not harming the waterfall in any way. There were plenty of Kumbuk and similar trees around making it like a giant canopy shielding us from the piercing rays before the rain.

However there is one rather silly video I came across (thanks to Ashan) on YouTube I came across. It’s about something called Dual Survival where two lost people trying to find the way to civilization. In the video, one of them climbs to the top of the falls to find any humans are there but comes across a herd of jumbos. This is hilarious coz no jumbos roam in this area according to the locals. Watch it and see. All they had to do was retrace the path they took to the falls to find civilization. It proved documentaries done by even the most prominent channels could be no better than movies.

Ok guys, while in savor the first good thing for the day you can enjoy some of the pictures. As I keep reminding myself and you folks, the pictures don’t do enough justice to the beauty of these places. So just don’t judge by them by not so glamorous pictures of mine. There is very little my point-n-shoot can capture. Here we go:

There's Elle Wala, the first glimpse

There’s Elle Wala, the first glimpse

Our guides

Our guides

Very shady and soothing

Very shady and soothing

Finally some happy thoughts

Finally some happy thoughts

Base pool gradually increases its depth

Base pool gradually increases its depth

Closer look

Closer look

Portrait

Portrait

Sandy floor

Sandy floor

Downstream

Downstream

Found a delicacy

Found a delicacy

Couldn't get enough of

Couldn’t get enough of

See the dam built for diverting water?

See the dam built for diverting water?

Pipelines

Pipelines

Closer look

Closer look

Different angle

Different angle

The view was spectacular

The view was spectacular

Ranga, the tuk-tuk fellow who roamed around with me

Ranga, the tuk-tuk fellow who roamed around with me

Time to say bye

Time to say bye

Kaluwala Ella aka Ice Peella Ella

After a good 30-40mins we left for Wellawaya. Ranga decided to take me all the way which suited me just fine. This is when Ashan called and said that he’s going for a bath there with a couple of friends. We arrived at Wellawaya and while I was pondering what to do, Ranga said that he would take me to the place. It was a good idea coz I was not in the mood for bargaining with tuk-tuk fellows. Here are the directions:

This is located about 1.5-2km from Wellawaya along Koslanda road near the Water Pump Station which is popularly known as the Ice Peella Pompagaraya. Just look for the No. 215/3 Bokkuwa. There is a tiny footpath between the pump station and the adjacent house to the right. Take this and it’ll circle to the back of the pump station and you will come to a narrow concrete canal built across the stream which is about 25ft below.

This is where all your gymnastic skills will come into play. The canal is about a foot and a half each in width and depth. Either side the concrete walls are about 5-6 inches wide. Yeah inches not feet. You have to balance on this (remember no getting into the canal) for another 30ft to reach the safety of the other end. For those who still don’t get what I am trying to tell you, just imagine walking along the iron bars on the railway line only about 1/3 in width. My legs shook so bad I had to caress them a bit and do a little pep talk. They kept refusing but the urge to see this beauty overpowered the unsteadiness of the legs.

I got on to the concrete and didn’t look back or up until I was on the other side. Just as I was heaving a sigh of relief, the legs reminded me of the return journey. Stopping the breath in mid-air, I followed the water to a leak in the canal. All this is about 200m from the main road even though I try to make it like 20km. This is when I met Ashan and his friends coming after a bath. They kept on coz he had work till late and I urged Ranga forward.  Here go downhill to the right until the base of the falls. This is a rare beauty with a large base pool and another rock pool on the top.

The water level was not so bad and I was beginning to change my mind about going back to Colombo. Well, it was one of the wisest things I’ve ever done in my life coz the journey ended after 17 waterfalls. Almost all of them looking rich and glamorous. So the lesson you have to learn is always weigh a situation when faced in a dilemma and listen to your calm side. The temptation to have a cool dip was so much but I felt that Ranga was in a hurry so decided against it and got back to the path once again crossing the canal with legs playing all the guitars from Rhythm to Base. I’m sure you’re itching to see the pictures and here they are. Next I’m gonna take you to a place quite different from the theme of the journey. An archeological site which is known all over the world for its craftsmanship like at Aukana and Res Vehera.

It's behind this premises

It’s behind this premises

Water treatment plants

Water treatment plants

Another

Another

Where we had to go

Where we had to go

Just before the falls

Just before the falls

There she is

There she is

Looking at the rocky wall, she must get very wide during heavy rains

Looking at the rocky wall, she must get very wide during heavy rains

Lots of tree cover

Lots of tree cover

Portrait

Portrait

image095

Safe enough for bathing

Safe enough for bathing

Let's go up

Let’s go up

From the top

From the top

Downstream

Downstream

The water pool on the top of falls

The water pool on the top of falls

Nice and shallow for people like me

Nice and shallow for people like me

Time to go

Time to go

Huge ones

Huge ones

Shady path parallel to the stream

Shady path parallel to the stream

Ranga had no problem

Ranga had no problem

Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala is located about 6km from Wellawaya along Thanamalwila road. Near the main road you can see the Buduruwagala Archeological Museum but the main archeological site is another 4km from the main road passing the Buduruwagala Tank. The charcoal grey clouds had developed over Ella mountains and were on their way to the southeast where we were. I bid farewell to Ranga and thanked him for the help and guidance. I got into a Thanamalwila bus amid the not-so-friendly gestures of the conductor. It was around 2pm and the bus was crowded with school children.

It is only Rs. 15/- to Buduruwagala and I spent a restless quarter hour trying to make sure I don’t miss the Buduruwagala junction. Finally I managed to make my way out of the bus after a lot of wriggling. I was in two minds whether to go to the museum or the archeological site. Finally I decided to go to the archeological site as it was the most important thing. I hired another tuk-tuk and made our way to the magical location. Chamika, the tuk-tuk fellow, seemed quite a nice person and we chatted along. After about 15 mins we arrived at the site to find four buses of school kids (two groups) swarming around. Fortunately one group was just leaving and I asked Chamika to come with me to visit the stone sculptures.

It’s about 400m walk to the place along a beautifully done path. We rushed to beat the school kids coz I wanted some decent pictures of the statues without having to wrestle with a bunch of playful kids. However you hardly have a chance with a bunch of let-loose kids. After a few pictures they invaded the site running all over. I was glad that the ground was sandy not muddy coz they would have turned it into a ploughed paddy field in seconds from the way they ran around. Chamika said that they would be gone sooner than they arrived and for me to stay put. So I sat at one corner and concentrated on the sculptures.

There are 7 in all. Two groups of three either side of the main Buddha Statue in the middle. Like at Res Vehera, the makers had either not been able to or purposely left them bringing forward from the granite wall. They are carved into a huge rock about 100ft in length and more than 50ft in height. The Buddha Statue here is 51ft high and considered to be one of the tallest in the world especially after the brutal and extremist attack on Bahamian Buddha Statues in Afghanistan. Just like to the LTTE, see what happened to those ruthless killers.

On the right of the Buddha Statue (to your left) is the Avalokitesvara (the Bodhisattva of Compassion). To the left of this white-painted figure is a female figure thought to be his consort, Tara. Local legend says the third figure represents Prince Sudhana. Moving onto the other side, the crowned figure at the centre of the group is thought to be Maitreya, the future Buddha. To his left stands Vajrapani, who holds a Vajra (an hourglass-shaped Thunderbolt Symbol) – an unusual example of the Tantric side of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. The figure to the left may be either Vishnu or Sahampath Brahma. Several of the figures hold up their right hands with two fingers bent down to the palm – a beckoning gesture. For a comprehensive reading, please read the article on Wikipedia and Amazing Lanka.

Just as Chamika predicted the kids vanished as they found very little excitement looking at the stone statues leaving me to enjoy the ingenuity of our forefathers. I’m gonna share them with you.

Trying to beat the large crowds

Trying to beat the large crowds

Please adhere by all means

Please adhere by all means

We almost ran past these

We almost ran past these

There it is

There it is

Closer view

Closer view

To the left of the main statue

To the left of the main statue

The middle one looks as if it had been coated with some kinda plaster

The middle one looks as if it had been coated with some kinda plaster

To the right

To the right

Center one

Center one

Side angle

Side angle

Oh god, finally they were all over

Oh god, finally they were all over

The teachers had a time getting them to sit and pose for a picture

The teachers had a time getting them to sit and pose for a picture

Surrounding

Surrounding

Finally some space

Finally some space

See the carvings

See the carvings

Back to the left side

Back to the left side

Is that a tiny Buddha Statue on the middle of the head dress?

Is that a tiny Buddha Statue on the middle of the head dress?

This was huge and reminded me of Aukana and Res Vehera

This was huge and reminded me of Aukana and Res Vehera

Full view

Full view

Some peace for the place after the raucous crowd

Some peace for the place after the raucous crowd

The rain was imminent

The rain was imminent

Good day's work

Good day’s work

Spotted purely by chance

Spotted purely by chance

See you again

See you again

We then left this grand place and got back on the road. Chamika was hooked on the phone and paid very little attention to my questions. So whenever I want him to stop, just a pat on the shoulder. We saw remains of another Buddhist temple with a Dagoba and stone pillars some way before the main complex. And I got him to stop at the Buduruwagala tank as well. Here are some of the pictures and I can hear Ashan’s calling impatiently. Gotta hurry up and get to the Buduruwagala junction.

The canals leading to Buduruwagala

The canals leading to Buduruwagala

Rains have taken care of them

Rains have taken care of them

Waiting game

Waiting game

Buduruwagala Tank

Buduruwagala Tank

There it is

There it is

Got a nice view point

Got a nice view point

Isolated

Isolated

Greenery

Greenery

Done for the day

Done for the day

Rain is imminent

Rain is imminent

Very true

Very true

The Dagoba I told you about

The Dagoba I told you about

Here it is

Here it is

Closer look

Closer look

Standing on the top

Standing on the top

More to excavate and see

More to excavate and see

I met Ashan and went to Monaragala where I’d spend the night. Well, don’t expect anything from tomorrow coz I’ve already told you guys about it. If you wanna refresh the memories, check out the Day 02 on this link. Well, on day three, we’re going to see some more beautiful girls and it is going to be Ashan’s farewell for them as well having been in Monaragala for so long, he’s due a transfer to Chilaw (will have been transferred by the time you read this and probably done a half a dozen tours as well).

On the day 02, we reached Dewathura, another beautiful and isolated village surrounded by the mountains in the Namunukula Range. To reach there, take the Passara-Palwatta Road till the 11th km post. Just there take the right uphill turn for another 6km and you will be in Dewathura and mark my words, it’s gonna wow you to no end. It was raining cats and dogs when we reached there. Well there was nothing else to do but have a sumptuous dinner and tuck in for the night. The distant noise of the Dewathura Oya put us to sleep and I slept like a hibernating grizzly bear. Come in the morning for another roller coaster ride.

Day 03

Somebody walking around woke me and as I peeped out of my thin-layered sleeping bag I saw Ashan moving about and the time had gone past 5am. “Go back to sleep. There is more time” was I remembered just before falling asleep once again. When I got up again it was well gone by 6am and I wriggled out of the sack holding me. The sun was coming up over the mountains but from where we were there was precious little to see the morning show.

I came back and had a wash coz the rains and the dew usually leave their prints on the soft petals and green leaves in the shape of droplets of water. While I was washing I heard Ashan saying that he’d been busy trying to shake the water off the leaves and petals. “What a wicked thing you’ve done” I screamed but realized that he was trying to take the mickey out of me when I ran out into the garden.

The mountains in the distance looked amazing and below them about 100m from where I stood was a paddy field with its typical green coat on. My under feat felt cold due to the dew on the grass and many flowers smiled at me as if trying to make me feel better. The dew was there all over the plants, leaves and the colorful flowers. I was just getting crazy wondering where to start. Pink rose petals were like cheeks of a new born baby girl. They had many droplets of dew clinging lovingly to the soft tissue like petals. I wanted to feel them but was scared to touch them. The whole garden smelled of fresh dew, grass and flowers invigorating my mind and the soul.

Well, I know I’m making you jealous and you should be coz this is not something you get to see everyday. Here are the pictures for you to enjoy. Oh just forgot to tell you about the juicy guava which were waving for my attention. I just jumped up and scooped up a few and popping one in and chewing slowly I realized how tasty they were. They were from a different world, gosh I want more.

Good morning!

Good morning!

Where we stayed

Where we stayed

Here we go, Ashan probably shook these off

Here we go, Ashan probably shook these off

Ginger

Ginger

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

Sign of dew

Sign of dew

Oh just look at that color

Oh just look at that color

Not ready to bloom yet

Not ready to bloom yet

Not ripe enough otherwise you wouldn't have seen this

Not ripe enough otherwise you wouldn’t have seen this

Drenched birds' nest

Drenched birds’ nest

Water was all over them

Water was all over them

Almost touching the ground

Almost touching the ground

See the dew all over?

See the dew all over?

More

More

Like a glass flower

Like a glass flower

Guava, very juicy and tasty

Guava, very juicy and tasty

We had them after the picture

We had them after the picture

Gorgeous red

Gorgeous red

I went mad trying to take pics of all

I went mad trying to take pics of all

Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea

Central Dispensary, Dewathura

Central Dispensary, Dewathura

Here it is

Here it is

See who it is?

See who it is?

Resting after breakfast

Resting after breakfast

Paddy fields

Paddy fields

Gorgeous but rains have ruined the crops a lot

Gorgeous but rains have ruined the crops a lot

See the hut?

See the hut?

There, looks strongly built

There, looks strongly built

Still more to grow

Still more to grow

Time for the waterfalls

Time for the waterfalls

Habaraththawa Ella

After a good hour or so of my enjoying the guava and the beauty of this remote village we decided to go for the first waterfall of the day. She’s been named as Habaraththawa Ella by Ashan coz the place where she is known as Habaraththawa. She originates from Dewathura Oya that starts from Namunukula Mountain. It’s easy to find coz everyone in the village knows it. Located about 1-2km off the main road where the last stretch (800-1000m) you need to go on foot. The turn off is near a cement built bus stop about 1km before the Dewathura Central Dispensary.

We drove on and parked at the last house before we had to take it on foot. The walk along the leech infested path was no trouble and I was impatient to see this beautiful falls. When we got to the flowing Dewathura Oya, I just couldn’t take my eyes off of what I saw. Here in front of my eyes was a scene I dearly would love to see anywhere and anytime. This not-so-tall fall was jumping over a wide rocky wall creating a white cloth full of silken threads.

“Oh my gosh!” was all I managed to utter before firing the shutter button until Ashan laughingly said that this is not the real fall. “What do you mean? Is there another falls here?” I asked feeling anxious. “Right over there” he pointed downstream where the water fell into a deep gorge. We had to be extremely careful not to slip and fall into the fast flowing water or hitting the rocks scattered around. While we do that you check these out. I can’t afford to lose concentration now.

Where we parked our vehicle

Where we parked our vehicle

Mountains in the distance

Mountains in the distance

The boy behind said "Amme ayyage photo gaththa"

The boy behind said “Amme ayyage photo gaththa”

It may be a rural village but the creativity is not lost

It may be a rural village but the creativity is not lost

If only you know the trouble we took to take this single shot

If only you know the trouble we took to take this single shot

Tiny ones

Tiny ones

The leech-infested path

The leech-infested path

Japanese umbrella?

Japanese umbrella?

Dewathura Oya

Dewathura Oya

The upper cascade

The upper cascade

Oh looks really good

Oh looks really good

Wow

Wow

One sexy lady

One sexy lady

Like a set of threads falling in unison

Like a set of threads falling in unison

The base pool is huge but deep too

The base pool is huge but deep too

Through the blocks

Through the blocks

She was so beautiful I couldn't get enough of her

She was so beautiful I couldn’t get enough of her

Another close up

Another close up

Spent quite a long time with her

Spent quite a long time with her

Well, guess time to go see her elder sister

Well, guess time to go see her elder sister

After slipping and sliding down, we managed to get to the top of where the water fell and here was a taller and gorgeous lady. I pinched myself in the left arm to make sure this wasn’t a fairy tale dream. “Please let this be real not another of my dreams” I pleaded and “aawh” I gasped at the bite my nails made on the exposed biceps. But the joy I felt overpowered the pain coz this was for real and I was there in person and what I was seeing the real thing not a hallucination.

She is tall and playful as she curved around before falling onto the rocks below. “I want to go down” I told Ashan who was balancing carefully on a rock which was very slippery. “No can do. We have to cross the river but not when she’s in a raging mood”. He was right and the fattened up body of Dewathura Oya looked very dangerous to be messing around. I looked around frantically for a way down but none safe way was available. However I managed to get about 5ft down to another rock hanging onto a wine where I got a decent look. Last time Ashan had come, he’d been able to get to the base but the water levels were very low compared to now.

This was a long and pure white flow of water. I just looked mesmerized by her playful ways. Every minute felt like a second as time flew past me but I simply didn’t want to leave. Here was a sensual and adorable virgin that was worth looking again and again for the rest of the day. However as always it looks as if it always drags us from the best of the things rather quickly while the sorrows seem to stay on forever. Feeling both elated and sad at the same time, we turned around to go for the next beauty waiting for us. Remember; never leave a gorgeous girl waiting for you too long. Here are the pictures you are craving for.

The top

The top

Slanting along the rocky surface

Slanting along the rocky surface

It was tough to get the whole length in one shot

It was tough to get the whole length in one shot

See the base

See the base

No chance to get there

No chance to get there

The best shot with the whole falls

The best shot with the whole falls

Top part

Top part

Glistening in the sunlight

Glistening in the sunlight

Hugging to the rocks

Hugging to the rocks

Dewathura Oya was rich and dancing

Dewathura Oya was rich and dancing

Wish they were edible

Wish they were edible

"The God Must Be Crazy VII"

“The God Must Be Crazy VII”

It was cool to be among the filtering rays

It was cool to be among the filtering rays

Superb

Superb

Had to spend a long time to capture him

Had to spend a long time to capture him

Saying bye

Saying bye

A million-dollar worth pic

A million-dollar worth pic

Kandahena Ella

Like the Habaraththawa Ella, this was named by Ashan as she is located in Kandahena Estate. She originates from a stream that starts from Namunukula Mountain. Here are the directions for it but should be no trouble to find her either.

Take the road to Kandahena Tamil School No. 2 (there is a concrete road that is off the main road running through the tea plantation) and go past it up to the sign board “Kandahena Tea Nursery”. The road after about a couple of hundred meters is simply not drivable except in a 4WD. Fortunately we were in one and swaying from side to side as if we were in a choppy sea, we drove on while students from the school looked surprisingly at us. From the sign (a good place to leave your vehicle if you were foolish enough to take it that far) go straight through the gate and then turn left at the line houses and follow the trail. Remember that the road you followed up to the sign is continuing with a sharp bend to the left. If you have the time, follow it and it will bring you to the top of the falls and farther higher up is the Kandahena Tamil School No. 1. You simply don’t understand the difficulties until you go there in person and I just can’t imagine the plight of the kids who have to traverse the rugged terrain probably in just a pair of flip flops.

The path will take you after another couple of hundred meters to a place where you can see the falls in the distance. The trail was muddy and we got bogged down a few times but managed to free ourselves without muddying the socks. Here was a fall with a relatively bigger and taller upper part and many small cascades as she plunges down. The trail we were taking had been a fairly wide estate road but now overgrown into a tiny footpath due to the minimal use by people let alone vehicles. Here are some distant shots both zoomed in and out.

On the move

On the move

Ran and hid behind the mother

Ran and hid behind the mother

Line house you have to turn left

Line house you have to turn left

Droplets on the leaf

Droplets on the leaf

Furry

Furry

She's there and this is the actual distance

She’s there and this is the actual distance

Zooming in

Zooming in

Reminded me of Wee Oya Ella

Reminded me of Wee Oya Ella

Perfect frame

Perfect frame

Managed to find a better place

Managed to find a better place

The top part

The top part

Bottom

Bottom

Ok, let's get closer

Ok, let’s get closer

Wonder if this is a trap

Wonder if this is a trap

Full package

Full package

We then walked up to a wide bridge signaling this had indeed been a large jeep track. The cascades went under the bridge making some more downstream. However the view of the top was somewhat blocked due to the close proximity of us standing closer to it. “Shall we climb up and see if there is a good view?” asked Ashan and I didn’t want a second invitation. So we climbed on all fours like land crabs holding onto the rocks and roots of grass bushes. Mana blades scraped our already smarting (after the Rodakdanguwa Ella experience) exposed skins mercilessly. But their resistance was just a trifle compared to our determination to get up there.

After slipping a countless times, we finally reached a good vantage point where it offered a grand view of the top section and a couple of other segments. After a while, we decided to get back onto the solid ground but found it was gonna be tougher than we anticipated. Do you remember what happens to the cats, leopards and most of the feline family that are silly enough to climb up trees? They simple don’t know how to get down and were faced with a similar a dilemma. So why don’t you enjoy these pictures while we do the climbing down?

Up close, covered with the rock and we gotta get up there

Up close, covered with the rock and we gotta get up there

See that

See that

Only the top part is visible when zoomed

Only the top part is visible when zoomed

Cascade just below the main one

Cascade just below the main one

Closer look

Closer look

Another one (the third in overall from the top)

Another one (the third in overall from the top)

Here's the fourth cascade

Here’s the fourth cascade

Portrait of that

Portrait of that

The fifth one

The fifth one

The bridge where we started climbing up

The bridge where we started climbing up

Just near the bridge and we couldn't get below the bridge to see the rest of the cascades

Just near the bridge and we couldn’t get below the bridge to see the rest of the cascades

Towards Monaragala and South East

Towards Monaragala and South East

Our Jeep aka CTB Bus waiting for us

Our Jeep aka CTB Bus waiting for us

Black & White

Black & White

Aradunu Ella

Our next attraction for the day was Aradunu Ella in Passara which is according to Ashan is the headquarters of Piaggio tuk-tuks. So we returned to Dewathura and had breakfast before driving fast to Passara. If you had read Ashan’s report, there is a hydro power plant which is run using the water of Aradunu Ella. If you’re to see healthy levels of water one needs to go there before 8am. We spent so long with beauties of Dewathura and the time was past 10am.

While we were wondering whether or not to visit Aradunu Ella (I had no intention of visiting a dried up rocky wall), Ashan came up with an idea. He’d the telephone number of one of the workers at the power plant and we called to check the situation. Fortunately he answered after a frightening delay and to the joy of us said that there’s ample water despite diversion to the power plant. We drove faster not wanting to miss this great lady.

Aradunu Ella originates from Loggal Oya which then flows separating Kohonawala from Badulla side. To get to the falls, take Madolsima Road from Passara for just over 2km and take the left turn at the name board. Then take the left on that road at the first Y point and then a right when you come to a shed which is about 200m from the main road. From here stick to the right and walk for about 1.8km at the edge of the tea estate. However you will have to keep checking the directions coz it’s hard to give you exact directions due to the nature of the estate road. However if you happen to come to a place where the towering Namunukula is in front of you and a deep ravine below with paddy fields, you have gone too far. We too got as far in the jeep and decided to walk back.  Just back track and take the road that goes downhill to the left or right depending on how you go. We lost it a few times even though Ashan had been here twice before but some two years ago. Fortunately we got lucky and found a person to get the correct directions.

Alternatively you could take the Passara RMV Road which meets the former path about 1km before the power plant and the falls. We walked down hearing the roar of Aradunu Ella in the distance. The closer we came, the louder she fell. I was as excited as a boy who is going to see his girlfriend on their first date. Finally we saw the roof of the power plant and a notice warning against bathing in the base pool. We had no such idea and crashed through the bushes almost falling headlong into the viewing point. “Oh my my” was all I seemed to manage recently when coming face to face with such beautiful and graceful ladies.

The worker was right coz there was so much water even though they had diverted a large amount to generate electricity. She was simply truly amazing and worth every trouble we took to visit her. We just sat on a rock and admired the sheer beauty in front of our eyes. I knew for sure this was no dream and felt very happy about it. Well, I won’t keep you guessing for long and here are the pictures.

Sign board at the Madolsima Road

Sign board at the Madolsima Road

Gorgeous Namunukula... If you’ve come this far, you gotta turn around and take the first left downhill path

Gorgeous Namunukula… If you’ve come this far, you gotta turn around and take the first left downhill path

To the right of her

To the right of her

Left of her

Left of her

Valley down below

Valley down below

Gem mining goes on with backhoes despite the ban

Gem mining goes on with backhoes despite the ban

Couldn't resist taking more of her

Couldn’t resist taking more of her

Re-tracing our steps

Re-tracing our steps

This is the point where the Madolsima trail (to the right uphill one) and Passara RMV trail (from where this pic taken) meet. You need to go towards Ashan

This is the point where the Madolsima trail (to the right uphill one) and Passara RMV trail (from where this pic taken) meet. You need to go towards Ashan

You can see the roof of the power plant

You can see the roof of the power plant

She's a beauty, ain't she?

She’s a beauty, ain’t she?

Beginning of the endless pic journey

Beginning of the endless pic journey

Portrait

Portrait

Base pool

Base pool

So much water despite the water diversion

So much water despite the water diversion

Lower section

Lower section

Goes downstream

Goes downstream

Tiny pools like these are inviting for a bath

Tiny pools like these are inviting for a bath

After using by the power plant

After using by the power plant

Wide angle

Wide angle

Closer view

Closer view

Rocky gorge where water gushing down

Rocky gorge where water gushing down

Felt like flying

Felt like flying

Time to go

Time to go

Trustworthy companion waiting patiently

Trustworthy companion waiting patiently

Pareiyan Ella

Our next target was the Pareiyan Ella in Badalkumbura. We were tired after the hike up and down to the Aradunu Ella and the sun was scorching hot making us sweat profusely. “It’s gonna rain sooner than yesterday” Ashan predicted but I yearned for him to be wrong like our Met Department. Well later it would prove that he was right about it. We took the Passara-Badalkumbura road which was under construction. About half of it is fully completed but so much more to do.

We lemme give you the directions first. Pareiyan Ella originates from Menik Ganga and is one of the unorthodoxly beautiful waterfalls in Sri Lanka. If you care for such beauty, take the Badalkumbura-Buttala road for about 4.5km then take the right turn with a sign announcing Pareiyan Ella thanks to the Uva PC. Follow this road for about 2km before turning to the right towards a house where you have to leave your vehicle. Look for a small sign stuck on a tree saying “Ella” at the turn. You had better keep checking the directions from the locals just to be on the safe side.

From the house take the path to the right with steps all the way to the river. Follow the river downstream along the left bank till the Pareiyan Ella. It’s about 400m walk. We were initially planning to buy some lunch from Badalkumbura and have it at the Pareiyan Ella after a bath in the river where there is a safe bathing spot as soon as you reach the water. However the weather changed faster than a couple of movie stars changing their clothes in the songs leaving us with very little choice.

We decided to skip lunch and drove to the falls. As soon as we stopped the vehicle, we knew the rain was imminent but rushed down the steps. Ashan had a small umbrella which is excellent when taking pictures in the rain so long as winds are mild. Unfortunately I was without one except my raincoat (just didn’t cross my mind to take one all the way from Colombo) which is useless when trying to take pictures unless you have a waterproof camera.

We reached the Menik Gang that was gushing down with a manic (rhymes beautifully ain’t it? – manic Menik Ganga) energy. We followed the trail and reached the base of the falls as the sky opened up their flood gates. It added to the havoc wreaked by the raging water and we were stranded under a tiny umbrella. Pareiyan Ella looked chocolate brown due to the soil eroding power of the water but not less in beauty. We took turns taking pictures of the falls covering our cameras. The rains kept on making our pictures cris-crossed with falling water drops. After a lot of futile attempts, we managed to take a few decent shots and Ashan pointed at a set of carved steps into the rocky wall other side of the river.

According to the folklore, this had been done by a king when he sought refuge here and enjoyed his water sports near the waterfall. Our kings managed to live in style whether they were in power or hiding from the invaders. A quality which has evolved and being used even today by the politicians whether they are in power or in the opposition. Here are the pictures.

Turn off here

Turn off here

At the river

At the river

Rocky formation, more pics later

Rocky formation, more pics later

Just look at her

Just look at her

The rain was intense

The rain was intense

Closer view

Closer view

Mixture of muddy brown and white

Mixture of muddy brown and white

Will have to come back

Will have to come back

See the steps to the left of the rock just below the tree line

See the steps to the left of the rock just below the tree line

The river was raging downhill

The river was raging downhill

Another day and time, this would've made a beautiful place to camp

Another day and time, this would’ve made a beautiful place to camp

Ashan said that going to see the Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella is very dangerous as we had to go downstream of the river. A task which would have ripped us apart to pieces in a single wrong movement. So quite sadly, I agreed and got back into the trail and reached the top of Pareiyan Ella. The rain seemed to lessen and we thought of waiting to see what would happen. While we were waiting, we took these pictures. Note the brick red color of the granite here which is unusual but gorgeous.

Happened to come across them

Happened to come across them

Rain drops hanging

Rain drops hanging

Very tiny

Very tiny

Top of the right hand section

Top of the right hand section

Closer

Closer

It was so slippery

It was so slippery

You can see the base of it too

You can see the base of it too

The rocky boulder separating them prevented us getting a glimpse of the other part

The rocky boulder separating them prevented us getting a glimpse of the other part

The top of her

The top of her

The base

The base

Wide angle

Wide angle

Rains have stopped and must go back

Rains have stopped and must go back

The river goes down

The river goes down

Rocks with vivid colors

Rocks with vivid colors

Some more

Some more

Very slippery

Very slippery

Little bit of sunlight

Little bit of sunlight

Up stream

Up stream

 image501

Ok, time to go see without rain blockade

Ok, time to go see without rain blockade

Menik Ganga Dunhinda Mini Falls

This was the last in line of my marathon waterfall hunt but the ferocity of the river made it next to impossible and deadly dangerous. Even though we gave up the idea to visit her, it kept nagging at the back of our minds. Finally the rains eased and I suggested we go take some more pictures of the Pareiyan Ella. Ashan was reluctant but followed me yet. He was suffering from the same frustration as of me not being able to go see this beauty having come so close. Not to forget this was his farewell to the virgins of Uva. He then suggested we try to get downstream walking through the jungle parallel to the river. Well I guess you know me well enough not to miss anything like that. So while I took a couple of clear pictures of the Pareiyan Ella, Ashan went in search of a way. Care to see more pictures of the Pareiyan Ella?

Here we are

Here we are

Need to be careful to tackle here

Need to be careful to tackle here

How's that?

How’s that?

Awesome

Awesome

Portrait

Portrait

Let's go explore the others

Let’s go explore the others

Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella is about 200-300m downstream from Pareiyan Ella. That is if you follow the river. However we were trying to find an alternative route through the jungle bordering the river and I heard Ashan shouting that it is not difficult to get through the jungle.

So we started to follow the river along the left bank for Dunhinda Ella. Remember this was dry zone and its forests are notoriously famous for poisonous snakes so we had to be extremely careful. The ground was full of fallen and decaying leaves which sank under our weight as much as a foot. Snakes like resting under these leaves so every step was a real danger.

The last time Ashan visited here with Kasun, there was very little water and they had been able to walk along the river to the top of Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella. The situation was vastly different now and we kept on keeping the river about 50-100m from us to the right. Having walked for about 400m (which felt like 40km) we decided to follow a dried up stream down to the river. The rocks were slick with green slime and all of a sudden Ashan jumped back shouting there was a snake.

Oh dear, the only thing we wanted right now but he said it was a relatively low venomous one known as “Kunakatuwa” or Hump-Nosed Viper. However had it bitten, things would have been far from complicated. Thankfully he spotted just in time. Wanna see a picture? See how camouflaged the fellow is.

Can you see it?

Can you see it?

Dangerous pose

Dangerous pose

We shaking like fever patients descended the rest circumventing the snake and bingo, at the water with a beautiful waterfall. I thought this was the Dunhinda Ella but Ashan said she’s at the far side. So I just used the name Menik Ganga Dunhinda Mini Falls very much like the original Dunhinda Ella in Badulla who has a little sister downstream. This was falling in the middle of the very wide rocky wall and there was a tiny cave behind the body of water. Lemme show her to you and tell me if all the dangers and risks though calculated ones, we took were worth it.

I thought this was the original falls

I thought this was the original falls

She's in a nice setting

She’s in a nice setting

If only there was more water, she'd look like Sera Ella

If only there was more water, she’d look like Sera Ella

Time to go see her elder sister

Time to go see her elder sister

"Let's go" Ashan kept saying

“Let’s go” Ashan kept saying

"Well, one more" I kept saying

“Well, one more” I kept saying

"Oh, another" I kept delaying him

“Oh, another” I kept delaying him

Rocky cave in front of the Dunhinda Ella

Rocky cave in front of the Dunhinda Ella

Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella

After a while, Ashan urged me to make a move to Menik Ganga Dunhinda Ella. We could barely see a Niagara like body of falling towards the other side of the river with a thunderous bang. So we circled the river bank which was full of washed down garbage, plastic bottles, clothes, etc. Then walking through a 10ft high rocky boulders we got the first proper glimpse of this hidden beauty.

“Holy, Moly, Macaroni!” we screamed in unison. This was a big one and a ferocious one too. The water was so fierce it tried to tear the solid granite walls into pieces. She was white but like a school girl who had spent too much time in the playground rather than the classroom, had brownish stains scattered around the dress.  She surely looked naughty but lovable all the same.

We got closer to her and spent a long time staring at the beauty of the most beautiful thing we had seen on the day. Ashan kept asking if I was impressed. Well he can say that again coz impressed doesn’t even come closer to express my true feelings. I want to impress you too and here’s how. Before that, this was the perfect farewell for Ashan and the grandeur ending I was hoping for.

Just look at that

Just look at that

Must get closer

Must get closer

She's gorgeous

She’s gorgeous

Clearer ground

Clearer ground

Getting closer

Getting closer

Some more

Some more

Much more to capture

Much more to capture

Slightly tinged with muddy brown

Slightly tinged with muddy brown

Portrait

Portrait

She was too wide for the frame at times

She was too wide for the frame at times

Oh yeah

Oh yeah

Raging river downstream

Raging river downstream

Little sister through the trees

Little sister through the trees

One more look before leaving her

One more look before leaving her

Custard mushroom

Custard mushroom

Pareiyan Ella in the distance

Pareiyan Ella in the distance

Oh, what a window?

Oh, what a window?

Typical wild flowers

Typical wild flowers

Ready to say good bye

Ready to say good bye

One last look

One last look

Well guys and gals, what do you think? Tell me if you’re as ecstatic as I am. I just couldn’t get enough but all good things come to an ending so very sadly we bid farewell to this sensational creature of the Mother Nature. I’m sure she felt sad too seeing us leaving so soon but we had no other choice.

The return journey was quicker but more frightening as we kept trying to evade the snake which came across and any others. Finally we reached Pareiyan Ella and said goodbye once again. Afterwards we traced our way back to the jeep feeling over the moon but exhausted physically beyond imagination. We then realized we were ravenous and drove to Buttala and had a hearty meal.

Afterwards Ashan dropped me at Monaragala where I was to take a bus to Colombo. So bidding him farewell and thanking for the guidance and help, I got into a bus. The driver had very little sense of music as the same CD of Shelton Muthunamage (16 songs) were played again and again for the next 6hrs. They kept ringing in my ears even after one week.

Well folks, I just can’t believe I was that lucky. Hope you all like what we saw and enjoyed it as much. Thanks for your patience in reading through the mile long fairy tale and hopefully will see with another before long. Until then this is Sri signing off.

Take care!

The Long-Awaited Breakthrough at Kumana National Park – Pictorial Story 2…

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Year and Month 25-27 Mar, 2016
Number of Days 3
Crew Hasi, His Wife, Gayan, His Wife and Me
Accommodation Thunmulla Bungalow
Transport By Car & Safari Jeep.
Activities Safari, Archaeology, Photography, Sightseeing etc…
Weather Excellent.
Route Colombo->Potuvil via Ratnapura->Pelmadulla->Udawalawa->Thanamalwila->Wellawaya->Monaragala->Siyambalanduwa and return on the same route.

Potuvil->Panama->Kumana and back to Potuvil by the Safari Jeep.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Sena was our jeep driver (thanks to Anton for introducing him to Lakdasun) and is a very good person. He’s a nature lover and tries to help save it as much as he can.
  • You may book the Thunmulla Bungalow via Department of Wildlife Website.
  • Please refer to the post for more information on Thunmulla Bungalow.
  • Please note there’s only the Thunmulla Bungalow inside the park. So booking it can be very tricky and you’ll have to be very lucky and time it properly. Additionally there are a couple more camping sites where you can stay.
  • Gal Amuna Campsite is very popular and it’s located at the river bank of Kumbukkan Oya, about 2-3km from the mouth of the river at the beach.
  • The bungalow keepers (Shanaka & Sandaruwan) were very good cooks. They just kept themselves to themselves without bothering us at all.
  • Our tracker was Nalinda who was very sharp, knowledgeable and helpful.
  • The road up to Panama is very well carpeted and from there it’s about 12km to the Kumana Park Entrance along a dusty road which goes past Kudumbigala.
  • You can leave your vehicle either in Potuvil or Panama coz Sena has contacts that will look after your vehicles in their houses until you return.
  • The water at Thunmulla is brackish and you need to carry drinking water with you. It’s also best to take extra to cook as well; at least the rice coz there’s slightly tinged with mud and will make the rice a bit yellow. (Now don’t get alarmed unnecessarily coz there’s nothing dangerous or harmful about it)
  • Take plenty of liquids coz you’re bound to get dehydrated easily and it’s always a best bet to keep yourselves topping up with liquids.
  • Don’t roam around the bungalow in the night coz there are many wild boars and wild buffaloes that roam around. Not to forget the bears and jumbos either.
  • The last place to buy any essential items is Panama but you won’t find any food city there. However Potuvil has a couple of them.
  • You can always get Sena to buy the items by depositing some money to his account so that you wouldn’t have to carry heavy stuff like coconut, water and rice all the way from Colombo or waste your time shopping in Potuvil.
  • Don’t get down from the jeeps unless the tracker says so coz there is many wild buffaloes and they’re more dangerous than any other in the jungle.
  • Don’t throw things out of the jeep into the jungle and please bring back all your garbage (mainly polythene and plastic) with you and dispose of them in Potuvil or back in your homes. Leaving them at the bungalow will not help much. Please do take every step to safeguard the environment.
  • Don’t throw food outside the bungalow; just dispose of them into the bins in the kitchen.
  • Linen (bed covers and pillow cases) are provided but you could take your own if you prefer that way.
  • There’s solar power in the bungalow so don’t expect to charge your phones or cameras. Carry the power banks and spare batteries.
  • Cutlery and crockery is available. So is gas so there won’t any problem with cooking and eating so long as you take enough food items with you.
  • Remember first and foremost that you’re guests of the animals’ country. So respect their rights and stay away from them as much as possible.
  • Bring back only the pictures and memories.
Related Resources Check the Pictorial Journey 1 – Wilpattu here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The Long-Awaited Breakthrough at Kumana National Park – Pictorial Story 2…

Hello my friends hope you’re doing well and not being roasted alive on a stick. The sun had got very ferocious showing no mercy whatsoever. I hope you enjoyed my Pictorial Story 1 from Wilpattu where we spent two full days roaming along the muddy and flooded tracks looking for the Holy Grail with no luck. However as we were down and out, a Sloth Bear took pity on us and paid a quick visit about a few kms from the entrance thus making our efforts somewhat fruitful.

I hope you liked the new version of report which I’ve introduced which sort of told you the story of our wildlife, especially the plight of them in Wilpattu thanks to a Government Minister who’d taken the law into his hands destroying many acres of precious lands belonging to the buffer zone of Wilpattu by giving it to his supporters. It’s just pathetic the way things happen even though the Ministry of Environment is under the President himself. We also saw how they started building Mini Hydro Power Plants at Handagiriya destroying many more cascades very recently. It’s just so saddening to see the people who’ve been elected to safeguard these things help destroy them for monetary benefits. I hope they will soon see the erroneous ways they’ve been handling our natural resources and get back on track to protect them. However the million dollar question is, “Will it be too late?”.

So, just like that journey, I’m going to plunge straight into business and leave the fairy tale stuff aside. I’m sure the story of the wildlife in Kumana, the farthest away from Colombo, is much more interesting than my vivid imagination. However, just a bit of foreplay wouldn’t be too much to bear I suppose. Well, the newest of our crazes has become the wildlife, probably due to the less appealing states of my beloved waterfalls. Thankfully Hasi too shares the same taste and ever since Wilpattu, we’ve started to manic chase of our wildlife.

So during the Wilpattu journey and amid chit chats, we decided to do Kumana as soon as the time permitted coz it’s probably the farthest located Wildlife Park in Sri Lanka. If you’re not from Colombo or surrounding areas, I’m sure you’d agree. Well, here’s a list of National Parks in Sri Lanka administered by the Department of Wildlife if you’re not familiar with them.

Ok, guess it’s time we got on with the journey. We left Colombo around 2am even though we were planning on leaving at 12 midnight. Hasi had taken care of the pre-journey tasks such as booking the Thunmulla Bungalow which is extremely difficult as it is the only one in Kumana. He’d also paid an advance to Sena, our Jeep Driver, and fixed some water bottles (5-litre) and all the other little things. We reached Potuvil and met Sena and he helped us leave our car in one of his friend’s house in the town. Please be warned that there are many jeep drivers in Potuvil who are trying to just rob you in broad daylight as Anton had very truly mentioned in his report. So try and get Sena to accompany you by all means. He’s also taking parties to Kebaliththa so if you’re doing Kebaliththa, you can still contact him unless you’ve found some reliable contacts from elsewhere.

If you want to buy any stuff, you can do so at Potuvil (there are two well-known supermarkets). Also, Panama (now don’t get too confused with Panama files) too has some groceries where you can get essential stuff. There are some archaeological sites both inside and outside Kumana. You’ll find many typical black archaeological signs on the way after Monaragala and Lahugala. Kudumbigala is at the border of the Kumana NP and before Panama town, you can see Sashthrawela and many others.

Inside the park there are a few more archaeological sites such as Nelumpath Pokuna, Bowaththa Cave Complex, Bambaragasthalawa, Okanda Devalaya, Kuda Kebaliththa, Kebaliththa etc. You’re not allowed to go to the Nelumpath Pokuna Archaeological Site but there’s a pond some distance before the site you can get see. Bowaththa Cave Complex and Bambaragasthalawa can be visited with the help of the tracker. Unlike Bowaththa Cave Complex, it’d take almost a day to visit the Bambaragasthalawa due to the distance and the difficulty of the track. I’ve noted down some historical information on Nelumpath Pokuna and Bowaththa Cave Complex below.

Nelumpath Pokuna

—This is a rocky mountain of around 286ft in height. There are two huge rocky fountains situated on one such mountain which are not affected even during dry season. It’s true to admit that these two rocky fountains are unparalleled creations of nature serving wild beasts to quench their thirst. There are few pagodas on top of the mountain which have been devastated by treasure hunters. A stone script on one of these rocks dates back to King Kanishtatissa Era (167-186). According to that, in the past this place had been called as “Gosagalamahavihara”.—

Bowaththa Rock Cave Temple

—It’s very difficult to trace the real historical facts of this place as no historical study or survey had been conducted. Even such, it is possible to unearth a few historical facts related to this place by studying the book written by Ven. Ellawala Medhananda Thero having studied the stone scripts found in the premises, “Eastern Province & the Sinhala Buddhist Heritage in Northern Province”.

 According to the book, there are four prominent stone scripts found in the place. Two of which are referring to a King named “Jettatissa” who was the son of the “Great King Mahasena”. This book further sheds light on evidence from stone scripts to effect that the Great King Jettatissa had contributed to various religious activities in Ruhuna as mentioned in the “Mahavamsaya”. It further reveals that one such script reveals about conducting a Pooja by King Jettatissa in 8 A.D. for making way to “Ariyawansa Pirith” Sermon. According to the views of Medhananda Thero, Boawaththagala Cave Temple has been named as a place where the very famous Ariyawansa Sermon had been conducted.—

Ok, brace tight folks and here we go.

Some of the Tour Highlights:

  1. Bowaththa Rock Cave Temple.
  2. Gal Amuna Camp Site.
  3. Kuda Kebaliththa Devalaya.
  4. Plenty of Birds & Wildlife

Day 01

We came to the park entrance around 11am and went in. There’s a museum at the ticketing office with plenty of skeletons and other form filled creatures. We were planning to go straight to the bungalow after an hour or so coz the check-in time is 12 noon. Here’s the story of them until we go settle down at the bungalow.

"Yo! I'm the Pied King Fisher"

“Yo! I’m the Pied King Fisher”

"I'm the Lesser Adjutant or you very insultingly call me as Thatta Manawa"

“I’m the Lesser Adjutant or you very insultingly call me as Thatta Manawa”

"Oh, I'm the Black-Headed Ibis"

“Oh, I’m the Black-Headed Ibis”

“Can you see my reflection? I’m a Grey Heron”

“Can you see my reflection? I’m a Grey Heron”

Okanda Devalaya where people gather before the Pada Yathra across Kumana and Yala

Okanda Devalaya where people gather before the Pada Yathra across Kumana and Yala

Well, it's a Ramsar Wetland too (Click image to enlarge)

Well, it’s a Ramsar Wetland too (Click image to enlarge)

Well, now you’ve seen that Kumana was also named as a Ramsar Wetland and if you wonder what Ramsar Wetlands are, just click on the link and it’ll be directed to the information on that. For your benefit, I’ve just put the list of Ramsar Wetlands in Sri Lanka below with the size of them in hectares. According to that, Kumana is the second largest after Wilpattu.

List of Ramsar Wetlands in Sri Lanka

Name Area (ha)
Annaiwilundawa Tanks Sanctuary 1397
Bundala 6210
Kumana Wetland Cluster 19011
Maduganga 915
Vankalai Sanctuary 4839
Wilpattu Ramsar Wetland Cluster 165800

Ok, shall we go on the journey then?

Very nicely done

Very nicely done

A great pity to see the number of jumbo, especially the tuskers being killed like this

A great pity to see the number of jumbo, especially the tuskers being killed like this

Gosh, even I got scared

Gosh, even I got scared

This was on the roof and there were 2 of them.

This was on the roof and there were 2 of them.

Get a sense of the distance

Get a sense of the distance

Nicely done and maintained

Nicely done and maintained

Oh, look at them

Oh, look at them

"Oh hi, you know me, don't you? You'll also see our proud Chestnut Headed folks too"

“Oh hi, you know me, don’t you? You’ll also see our proud Chestnut Headed folks too”

“Who asked you to take my pictures?”

“Who asked you to take my pictures?”

"Oh hi, I'm the Maha Mugatiya"

“Oh hi, I’m the Maha Mugatiya”

The giant hearth. Just imagine the size of the people who cooked in such a huge pot

The giant hearth. Just imagine the size of the people who cooked in such a huge pot

A nice bridge across Bagura Lagoon

A nice bridge across Bagura Lagoon

Must belong to an eagle

Must belong to an eagle

If you’re willing to see pictures of the Thunmulla Bungalow, please click on the link so that it’d direct you to the post I’ve published. I purposely left of them from the report as I wanted to put more pictures of the wildlife. Now that we’ve arrived at the bungalow, it’s time to take stock of the situation and get our cooks to make some lunch for us while we unpack our baggage and take a break coz we’ve been on the go for the past 10+ hours.

Our two young chefs were very efficient and the smell wafting from the kitchen was churning the worms in my tummy. We waited with the greatest difficulty and the moment it was served to the table, we swarmed over it like a pack of wolves. After lunch, we were restless coz we wanted to get out and explore but the sheer hot conditions prevented us getting out and the animals would be in the shades too. So around 2.30pm, we embarked on our evening voyage, a voyage which is to be treasured for the rest of my life.

"Now stop that shooting right now"

“Now stop that shooting right now”

"Can't you just leave a woman to have a bath?"

“Can’t you just leave a woman to have a bath?”

He'd just walked along this road, even on top of the tyre marks

He’d just walked along this road, even on top of the tyre marks

"Don't think I've got sore eyes"

“Don’t think I’ve got sore eyes”

"Be careful"

“Be careful”

"Got my buddy's marriage tomorrow"

“Got my buddy’s marriage tomorrow”

"Hey, what's up?"

“Hey, what’s up?”

"Fellas, that jackal is around, watch it"

“Fellas, that jackal is around, watch it”

"I'll just settle for some more of these lush grass"

“I’ll just settle for some more of these lush grass”

"Hmmm, juicy"

“Hmmm, juicy”

"Will have to run and hide"

“Will have to run and hide”

Bowaththa Rock Cave Complex

Our next stop was to visit the Bowaththa Rock Cave Complex which is located about 50m off the main jeep track. This is one of the few places you’re allowed to get down but always adhere to the advice of the tracker as you’re entering into the dangerous territory. The bears tend to roam these caves and you need to be extra vigilant when you’re going around. Always stick together as a group and don’t get separated whatever happens.

On the way

On the way

This is called Gal Kema (ගල් කෑම / කෙම)

This is called Gal Kema (ගල් කෑම / කෙම)

Another

Another

Must've been used for drinking or bathing

Must’ve been used for drinking or bathing

There it is

There it is

From the front

From the front

Writings on the drip ledge

Writings on the drip ledge

Some more scripts found on the rocky surface

Some more scripts found on the rocky surface

Despite the low number of visitors, this kind of vandalism can still be seen. You just can't believe what kind of psychotic ill-minded people they are

Despite the low number of visitors, this kind of vandalism can still be seen. You just can’t believe what kind of psychotic ill-minded people they are

Stone steps still visible

Stone steps still visible

Time to go before the bears arrive

Time to go before the bears arrive

Back to Wildlife Exploration.

The time was flying and sun was dipping fast. We decided to turn around can go back to base. However little did any of us know that we were about to make first-ever contact of the most sought-after animal in Sri Lanka, the Leopard. It was so sudden and none of us was expecting it when that happened. It took Gayan by so surprise he’d found it unable to utter a word and point him to us. Thankfully our guide was so sharp and he pointed us in the direction.

I just couldn’t believe my eyes. There was this beautiful animal about 100m away standing on his hind legs and scratching at a tiny wood apple plant. He stopped doing that and looked at us coz of the noise of the Jeep. Then started slowly walking away into the jungle. The light was so dim and the foreground grass made it too much of work for our point-n-shoot cameras. I was trying to get the camera to focus properly but managed only couple of pictures with average quality. Well, this was anyway a great sighting and hopefully there’d be many more in the future coz we’d keep coming. Here are the rest of the pictures for the day.

"Hey, can barely see you"

“Hey, can barely see you”

"Hey, you are too late"

“Hey, you are too late”

"Sorry, not today, probably another time. My wife won't be happy if I got late"

“Sorry, not today, probably another time. My wife won’t be happy if I got late”

"Where was this rabbit?"

“Where was this rabbit?”

"Don't be deceived. I'm not from Ambalangoda and not a puppet head either."

“Don’t be deceived. I’m not from Ambalangoda and not a puppet head either.”

View from the bungalow

View from the bungalow

"Do you see anything strange of me?"

“Do you see anything strange of me?”

We finished a hearty dinner held a cabinet meeting as to what to do on the following day. Our initial plan was to go to Bambaragasthalawa on the second day but when we put our idea to Sena and our tracker, they said it’d take a whole day to go cover it. We actually didn’t wanna spend a whole day on archaeology having come so far. So after a lot of arguing and counter arguing, we all agreed that Bambaragasthalawa would have to wait even though it was very important and beautiful as we had to give priority to the wildlife. Our sighting of the leopard this evening sort of made a strong point in this regard.

Oh, it wasn’t the only thing we argued about. Most of the time we couldn’t figure out whether it was a male or a female when it came to birds and animals and my theory was hotly contested by Hasi and Gayan whereas their wives were all in favor. I told them that if it was a very beautiful one, it was the male and not so beautiful fella was the female. It’s only among the Humans and Horses we’d see the females more beautiful than the males. However, Hasi and Gayan were not in agreement so we went to bed with that though in mind in the upper dormitory where there are 8 beds with mosquito nets. Well, you’re welcome to share your ideas on this hot topic.

The night was calm and relatively cooler. There was the noise of the wind and the tree branches fluttering in the winds. Then there were noises of buffaloes crossing the tank in front of the bungalow in large numbers. A few other animals too made some unintelligible sounds and it sort of put us into sleep. Tomorrow we’d be packing our breakfast and leaving early in order to save time and increase sightings.

Hello folks, here I’m with the second day of our marathon run at Kumana NP. Hope you guys enjoyed the journey on day 01 and ready for another day of wildlife. Let’s get going then folks.

Day 02

We got up and took a few pictures of the moon and the tank in front while the breakfast was being prepared. Here are a few.

Good morning! The moon was dipping to the west

Good morning! The moon was dipping to the west

The morning sun falling on the tops of the trees

The morning sun falling on the tops of the trees

We went to the tower which has been built for bird watching. However there were not very good sightings so we went on our early morning safari and there were a couple of other jeeps too but it was not a mad rush like in Yala or at Wilpattu. That’s one advantage of Kumana coz of its location, only a few groups go there and hardly ever you’ll get half-day tours. I hope it’ll stay like that forever. If only they can limit the number of jeeps entering to Yala (I heard that there are 400+ jeeps operating there) in order to make it more pleasant to the visitors and bearable to the wildlife as well.

Oh, we got very lucky coz we managed to photograph a pair of Black-Necked Storks aks Ali Manawa that are very rare to find. They’re apparently the tallest birds found in Sri Lanka (I’m sure our bird experts like Dhana can provide us with the exact details) with a height of around 129-150cm (51-60inches). We only managed a couple of long range shots but come tomorrow rather in the next report coz we’ll have some stunning images of them for you. Here we go:

"Get off my back you brute!"

“Get off my back you brute!”

"Hey, what are you doing?" - "You got a big tick here man"

“Hey, what are you doing?” – “You got a big tick here man”

"Hey, don’t die on me"

“Hey, don’t die on me”

"Hey, how do I look?"

“Hey, how do I look?”

"Got it but got a scratchy limb here"

“Got it but got a scratchy limb here”

"This is our community toilet"

“This is our community toilet”

"I lost most of my sexy feathers due to this severe drought"

“I lost most of my sexy feathers due to this severe drought”

"Time to go look for some delicacies"

“Time to go look for some delicacies”

"I know I look Royal"

“I know I look Royal”

"Hey, do you know that I’m the tallest?"

“Hey, do you know that I’m the tallest?”

"Hey, just you wait"

“Hey, just you wait”

"Must go behind these"

“Must go behind these”

"Must go behind these"

“Must go behind these”

"I'm in the Great Seal of US with a bunch of arrows and an olive branch"

“I’m in the Great Seal of US with a bunch of arrows and an olive branch”

"Hey honey, how’s my dance?"

“Hey honey, how’s my dance?”

Bird Watching Hut

Bird Watching Hut

Well, water levels are a bit more in Kumana Willu

Well, water levels are a bit more in Kumana Willu

"I'm feeling sad today"

“I’m feeling sad today”

"Look, you need to find a partner like us and enjoy the life"

“Look, you need to find a partner like us and enjoy the life”

As you might have noticed there were only a few birds we could see from the tower despite our early arrival at the point. Ok, let’s go and see if we can get lucky with some more sightings before I wrap it up for this report and meet you again with the next episode. Oh by the way, we were also able to go see a rocky cave used by an ex LTTE Terrorist Leader. He’d tried to build a fully pledged bungalow by laying a foundation stone as well but thankfully our heroic soldiers managed to end the brutal control of those barbaric killers just in time. Our tracker said in the past when the East was more or less controlled by those LTTE killers, they’d killed so many animals, especially the leopards for their skin and others such as deer, wild boar, buffaloes, etc. for meat. That damage was irreparable and it’d take so long for it to get back to normal if it ever does. However the poachers and henchmen of the powers that be might continue this from where the LTTE left. Keeping our fingers crossed, let’s hope for the best.

"Olu Pipeela Wila Lela Denawa Sudata Sude Nango"

“Olu Pipeela Wila Lela Denawa Sudata Sude Nango”

"Hey, you think this is Kumana Star Contest?"

“Hey, you think this is Kumana Star Contest?”

"That's the thing and I'm the Kumana Star anyway"

“That’s the thing and I’m the Kumana Star anyway”

"Hi, I'm Kithala or Purple Swamphen"

“Hi, I’m Kithala or Purple Swamphen”

Looks glamorous

Looks glamorous

"There's a nice Willu here"

“There’s a nice Willu here”

Here it is

Here it is

Tons of leopard and bear poo

Tons of leopard and bear poo

Lush greenery beyond

Lush greenery beyond

"Hey, you see my broken tail"

“Hey, you see my broken tail”

"Hmmm, where did that little one go?"

“Hmmm, where did that little one go?”

Gal Amuna Camp Site

This is probably one of the best camp sites in the whole country. We actually wanted to go and see the famous Gal Amuna which had apparently been built so long ago across Kumbukkan Oya in order to stop sea water flowing inland making the water in the river not usable. It’s about 1.5-2km from the river mouth and located with plenty of shade from mammoth Kumbuk Trees. Usually you’re not allowed to go into the camp site when it’s been booked by another party as it’d be an intrusion into their privacy. However we were wanting so badly to see the Gal Amuna so our tracker offered to go and check with the residing party if we could go take a few pictures and return.

Thankfully they welcomed us and allowed us to go and see the place to our sheer joy. So you too are lucky to see it the way we did and here are the pictures. Oh guess what, according to our tracker there are plenty of sea fish that come upstream during the low tide and get trapped in the tiny ponds along the river bank. We also wanted to go to the river mouth but as Sena didn’t have the wrench in his jeep we decided not to attempt it coz the path was so muddy and would have made it so difficult. So we played it safe and didn’t go up to the river mouth.

Kumbukkan Oya

Kumbukkan Oya

Towards the river mouth but far away

Towards the river mouth but far away

Nice view

Nice view

Here’s the famous Gal Amuna

Here’s the famous Gal Amuna

“Hey, you’re not out to catch us, are you?”

“Hey, you’re not out to catch us, are you?”

Well, time we went

Well, time we went

Back on the Safari

I hope you liked what you saw but it was nothing compared to what you’d see with your own eyes. Let’s go on the last bit of Safari where we’d take you to another significantly important religious location inside Kumana, Kuda Kebaliththa. The road to Maha Siyambala Devalaya aka Kebaliththa goes near this which is located off Kumbukkan Oya. Most of the Jeep drivers would not dare do it in one jeep instead they’d insist on two jeeps just in case if one broke down which is quite common on that road due to the extremely bad conditions.

I’ll take you up to Kuda Kebaliththa and end it there coz it’ll have to be a better planned journey to go beyond that to Kebaliththa. We’re going back to the bungalow for lunch and a break after this and will come back in the afternoon for the rest of the day.

"You must be thinking I'm mad to dry them out but jump in again into the water"

“You must be thinking I’m mad to dry them out but jump in again into the water”

"I can't bear this pain anymore"

“I can’t bear this pain anymore”

“This froggy is a very slick one”

“This froggy is a very slick one”

"Hey guys"

“Hey guys”

"Well, I'm not as tall as that Ali Manawa"

“Well, I’m not as tall as that Ali Manawa”

Kumbukkan Oya near Kuda Kebaliththa, the Moya Kata aka River Mouth is nearby

Kumbukkan Oya near Kuda Kebaliththa, the Moya Kata aka River Mouth is nearby

With the blessings of the gods, you may go. But don't forget to come again

With the blessings of the gods, you may go. But don’t forget to come again

We turned around after seeing a couple of jeeps coming from Kebaliththa. They looked as if they’d all been through a hurricane and the people inside looked haggard and were coated half an inch thick with dust. The drivers were the worst affected and their faces were white and visibly exhausted. It told us how difficult the journey to Kebaliththa actually is and how much planning and time needed to do it the proper manner. Still you’re bound to get knocked about in that difficult terrain.

We turned around and came to the bungalow for lunch as the time was getting closer to mid-day. On our way we met a few other friends who came forward to tell their story but some of them were still vary of our presence so stayed well away from us. Here we go:

"Hiya folks, how's it going?"

“Hiya folks, how’s it going?”

"Gotcha"

“Gotcha”

"Such a greedy stork"

“Such a greedy stork”

"Thani Thatuwen Piaymbanna"

“Thani Thatuwen Piaymbanna”

"Off we go then"

“Off we go then”

"I heard some rifle shots I guess"

“I heard some rifle shots I guess”

We came in time for a still warm lunch. It was midday and the heat was unbearable but the breeze coming from the tank was a blessing. We all stretched our legs and took showers while waiting for the lunch to be served. Despite the heat and exhaustion, we felt elated at some good sightings in the morning. So we decided to take a short break, about one and half hours before venturing onto the wild once again. The water in the bungalow was brackish with a touch of mud in it. So you should not expect a similar bath you’re having in Colombo or elsewhere. However, it’s nothing alarming but if you’re frantic about water and its condition, just watch out so that you won’t get disappointed. Also, remember not to expect so much as the main purpose of those bungalows is for the facilitation of wildlife sightings, not deluxe accommodation.

After a break (we were too excited to take a nap), it was time to get on the track again. We got Sena and our tracker Nalinda out of their resting points and got back on the jeep around 3pm. The heat was somewhat bearable so we made it slowly towards deep into the jungle. Let’s see what we’d find now before I wrap this up for today.

"Morning runs are always really good"

“Morning runs are always really good”

"I know you're impressed with our spoon like beak"

“I know you’re impressed with our spoon like beak”

"Just hurry it up son"

“Just hurry it up son”

"This is how you take off vertically"

“This is how you take off vertically”

"And land vertically"

“And land vertically”

"You saw my husband?"

“You saw my husband?”

"Hey, you got me"

“Hey, you got me”

" Must have a wash like this"

” Must have a wash like this”

"And brush my feathers well"

“And brush my feathers well”

"Hi, I’m the Podu Poroluwa or Hoopoe"

“Hi, I’m the Podu Poroluwa or Hoopoe”

"It's very hot today"

“It’s very hot today”

"I've torn my ears"

“I’ve torn my ears”

"Perfect Jumbo, huh?"

“Perfect Jumbo, huh?”

"Hey, do I look beautiful?"

“Hey, do I look beautiful?”

"Yo, I'm taking a nap"

“Yo, I’m taking a nap”

"Lols, I know I'm fat"

“Lols, I know I’m fat”

“I left it here”

“I left it here”

"Hey Lapwing, what ya looking buddy?"

“Hey Lapwing, what ya looking buddy?”

"You guys need some help?"

“You guys need some help?”

"This is good for our wedding photo"

“This is good for our wedding photo”

"Oh, you scared me"

“Oh, you scared me”

"Did you hear that?"

“Did you hear that?”

"Well, should I run?"

“Well, should I run?”

"It's the best time for a relaxing float"

“It’s the best time for a relaxing float”

"Ok, now you can pass"

“Ok, now you can pass”

Up close

Up close

View from the bungalow

View from the bungalow

So what you think about them? It was great especially the Spoon Bills and that huge Croc. Of course the credit of spotting the Spoon Bills should go to Gayani (Gayan’s wife and now don’t ask about the coincidence in them having similar names) coz we probably had missed good many of them as they were very much like those Egrets you find almost everywhere. And they keep their beaks either buried in the water looking for food or at odd angles making it difficult to spot. However, thanks to her we managed to see a good number of them as we were looking for them since the first sighting.

All in all, it was a majestic day and we witnessed another glorious sunset over the trees. By the time we arrived at the bungalow, the sun had all but dipped below the horizon leaving this orange and crimson mixture on the sky. We’re ready for some noodles and hit the sack. Come back in the morning as we would be spending the last day at Kumana and will be leaving after lunch. So we’d be doing a morning session and come back for brunch and check out of the bungalow and do a small safari again before saying good-bye.

Day 03

Good morning and hope you’re all set for a morning session with these beautiful creatures. Well, let’s not waste any more time and get cracking. We witnessed this glorious sunrise on our way over the lagoon and treetops. Here are some pics of that.

Glistening beautifully

Glistening beautifully

A dreamy shot

A dreamy shot

Reflections on the water

Reflections on the water

That was a great show, wasn’t it? Who would’ve thought we’d be treated to such glory inside a National Park? That was a really good stroke of luck. Ok, now let’s go to the nearby lagoon coz we saw a couple of Ali Manawa (Black-Necked Stork) yesterday and see if they are there. It’s such a rare sighting of them as much as Pelicans and Spoon Bills. Hopefully we’ll get lucky and they’d have a word with us.

Glistening beautifully

Glistening beautifully

A dreamy shot

A dreamy shot

Reflections on the water

Reflections on the water

"A nice juicy breakfast"

“A nice juicy breakfast”

Our arrival at the lagoon for the big show

Our arrival at the lagoon for the big show

"Did you catch anything?” - Nope not here"

“Did you catch anything?” – Nope not here”

"Those Ali Manawas are very proud"

“Those Ali Manawas are very proud”

"You got stuck?"

“You got stuck?”

"Let's go there"

“Let’s go there”

"Pooh, almost broke this spoon"

“Pooh, almost broke this spoon”

“How’s my landing?”

“How’s my landing?”

So guys, how did you enjoy the mesmerizing display of the Ali Manawa? They were simply amazing and the morning rays lit up the whole lagoon bringing their colors beautifully. Well, we couldn’t have asked for a better way to kick off our day and let’s go and see what else lies ahead for us.

"I'm a lot better than the one you saw yesterday, right?"

“I’m a lot better than the one you saw yesterday, right?”

"Plenty of food here"

“Plenty of food here”

"Not very tasty though"

“Not very tasty though”

"Oh honey, been looking for you all over"

“Oh honey, been looking for you all over”

"Hey stop disturbing me and go away"

“Hey stop disturbing me and go away”

"Ok, then let's get started"

“Ok, then let’s get started”

"Why did you get so late? Been waiting for ages"

“Why did you get so late? Been waiting for ages”

Our team from left: Nalinda, Sena and two cooks)

Our team from left: Nalinda, Sena and two cooks)

We arrived at the bungalow around 11am and had rice and curry so that we could hold until we were well away from Potuvil before we had to stop for meals. However, we got some Roti made and packed to have on the way. It was very saddening to bid farewell to this wonderful location and I wish we had more time. We said good-bye to our cooks and left for the entrance. This was one helluva journey and I’d treasure it to the rest of my life. However, we managed to do a little more safari before winding up our tour and here are those pictures.

"It's a nice shady place"

“It’s a nice shady place”

"Anything down there?"

“Anything down there?”

"Just admiring my nice and long beak"

“Just admiring my nice and long beak”

"It's a nice place for us"

“It’s a nice place for us”

"Xo xo xo"

“Xo xo xo”

"Oh you taking a portrait of me"

“Oh you taking a portrait of me”

"The nectar is tasty on these"

“The nectar is tasty on these”

"Shiny feathers"

“Shiny feathers”

"I'm watching you closely"

“I’m watching you closely”

Well, that was our journey inside the Kumana National Park, one of the very best in SL. If you’ve not been there yet, please go by all means and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed. Please take care of the nature and bring back all the garbage with you. Treat the nature with the due respect and do everything possible to protect it for the future as well. We left the park having thanked our tracker Nalinda who was a very good person. There was so much we couldn’t see yet, namely the Bambaragasthalawa and Kudumbigala. It means we’d definitely have to come back once again to this breath-taking place.

On our way, we came across somebody who was very muscular and handsome. You’d wonder if it was a Bollywood or Hollywood Star. Well, lemme show you what he looks like.

"Perhaps it's best if I flew away"

“Perhaps it’s best if I flew away”

"Well why should I coz it's my place?"

“Well why should I coz it’s my place?”

Well, how was the star player? He was really muscular and reminded me of Sylvester Stallone in Rambo. I think it’s time to end this report and hope you all enjoyed these beautiful encounters as much as we did. There was so much we missed capturing on our lenses so it’s really important for you to be there in order to get a better understanding of these beautiful and wonderful creatures of the Mother Nature.

Well, that’s it from Sri and I’ll see you once again with another Pictorial Story from another National Park. Until then, take care and keep travelling.

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