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Huffing & Puffing…… from East to West – A Memorable Ride through Nilgala Forest

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Year and Month April, 2012
Number of Days Day 4 of a Nine(9) Day Trip (Reports of Day 012345678)
Crew 2
Accommodation Outside an abandoned Wildlife department Bungalow
Transport Our faithful Push Cycles
Activities Cycling
Weather Excellent
Route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • All you need know about our trip is nicely summarized by Priyanjan in this post
  • What did we carry? Here is the list
  • Thank you Priyanjan for planing this trip fro A to Z. If not for your planing and execution I wouldn’t have even dreamed of doing this tour on my own!

** A BIG THANK to ALL of YOU who HELPED us in may different ways. Some of them good friends who knew us for long, some of them we met on the way for the first time. Without all of you we wouldn’t have made it! **

Author  Mithila
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Dawn of our third day of the tour was a very colorful one

Colorful Dawn

Colorful Dawn

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As usual we were on the road by 6.00 a.m. We had to track back about 1km from the temple to find the gravel road through Nilgala forest towards Komana.

Ready to go

Ready to go

Tracking back to Find the Gravel Road

Tracking back to Find the Gravel Road

Towards Nilgala Forest

Towards Nilgala Forest

Dawn

Dawn

Unpaved Road through Forest

Unpaved Road through Forest

Two Machines

Two Machines

.

Endless!

Endless!

One of several water crossings

One of several water crossings

Protected!

Protected!

After a few kilometers through what appeared to be a forest department protected area we started to encounter some signs of civilization.

Sign of Civilization

Sign of Civilization

Wow!

Wow!

Some rough ascends so we had to PUSH

Some rough ascends so we had to PUSH

Hard work!

Hard work!

More rough terrain

More rough terrain

...and some better sections of road as well

…and some better sections of road as well

More cultivations

More cultivations

Traditional Technology Still intact

Traditional Technology Still intact

After about 12km on unpaved roads though forest and chena’s, we crossed Guruwala Oya and reached a paved road. Time was around 8.30 a.m. Once on the paved road we stopped at the first place which appeared to have something to eat!

we crossed Guruwala Oya

we crossed Guruwala Oya

Last water crossing before we reached a moterable road

Last water crossing before we reached a moterable road

 

Whereabouts

Whereabouts

Public Transport

Public Transport

පලවෙනි තේ කඩේ

පලවෙනි තේ කඩේ

ගල් බනිස්

ගල් බනිස්

After some tea and ගල් බනිස් it was again time to hit the road. Next milestone was Pidiyathalawa. Another 12km through beautiful rural villages took us to Padiyathalawa via Komana, Dorakumbura and Kolamantalawa.

Signs of a better tomorrow

Signs of a better tomorrow

Beautiful Landscapes

Beautiful Landscapes

Beautiful Landscapes

Beautiful Landscapes

Crossing Over

Crossing Over

May be next time.....

May be next time…..

At Padiyathlawa the first task was to find a place to have a proper meal. Rusiru hotel whch was right at the junction appeared irresistible!

රුසිරු අවන්හල - පදියතලාව

රුසිරු අවන්හල – පදියතලාව

Breakfast? Lunch? how about a "Brunch"? :-)

Breakfast? Lunch? how about a “Brunch”? :-)

After a tasty meal it was time for some rest and re-planing. We were already at Padiyathalawa, the planned night park location for the day. The day however was still quite young! So we decided to take some rest and proceed as much further as possible.

Looking for a suitable place to sit and relax, we were warmly welcomed by Mr. Alladin to the little grocery shop he runs facing Mahiyanganaya road.

Next few hours again turned in to some interesting chit chat. After the usual set of who, where, how, why, questions, Mr. Alledin who himself had been an avid traveler and an adventurer of his days, became quite friendly with us!

While chatting with Mr. Alledin we had to get our clothes dried as well

While chatting with Mr. Alledin we had to get our clothes dried as well :-)

After about 2 hours of resting we were back on the road heading towards Mahiyanganaya. It was a main road so we had to be careful not get run over by a speeding bus or a truck. Also there were several hill stretches which made us do the hard work of pushing and pushing and pushing :-) However most of the time we were quickly rewarded with a long stretch of “Down the pallam” free ride!

Passing Padiyathalawa

Passing Padiyathalawa

On A5

On A5

Open and straight A5

Open and straight A5

Provincial Boundary

Provincial Boundary

An order and an FYI

An order and an FYI

Road work ahead!

Road work ahead!

Some Tasty දොඩම් we bought on the way

Some Tasty දොඩම් we bought on the way

Stopped here to take some rest

Stopped here to take some rest

Soon there will be a "brand new" Tarmac

Soon there will be a “brand new” Tarmac

Nice!

Nice!

Our planned route was through Ulhitiya so we turned right from A5, few kilometers before Mahiyanganaya, and proceeded towards Ulhitiya reservoir.

We turned right

We turned right

Beautiful Ulhitiya Reservior

Beautiful Ulhitiya Reservior

Irrigation Canal

Irrigation Canal

Returning home!

Returning home!

It was few minutes past 5 p.m. by the time we reached Ulhitiya reservoir. We had to look for a place to spend the night. Ulhitiya was not a planned night park so we had no information on possible places to stay.

We spoke to couple of people we met to see what options were available, and narrowed down our options to a temple which was said to be there few kilometers down the road. So the two of us started heading that way.

As we proceeded sign boards indicated that we were infact inside the Maduruoya national park and the continuous electric fence suggested that we did not have much time to waste! Guess what? We came across some wildlife department buildings in the new few minutes!

Priyanjan quickly moved in to see whether there was anyone present. Luckily the park warden himself was there. He kindly agreed to let us sleep in one of the newly built but abandoned circuit bungalows of the complex.

Lucky us! After a refreshing bath in the Ulhitiya Reservior  and some “On The Go (Registered Trade Mark!)” dinner, we went to sleep in our faithful tent pitched outside the new but stinking wildlife bungalow!

Maduruoya National Park

Maduruoya National Park

We were in Elephant Country

We were in Elephant Country

This was Eye Candy!

This was Eye Candy!

The abandoned building had a strong bat smell so we decided to sleep outside in our tent

The abandoned building had a strong bat smell so we decided to sleep outside in our tent

Continue to Next Report – The Day of the Great PUSH!


Huffing & Puffing…… from East to West – Nilgala via Himidurawa, Namaloya, Galoya and Rathugala

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Year and Month April, 2012
Number of Days Day 3 of a Nine(9) Day Trip (Reports of Day 012345678)
Crew 2
Accommodation A Temple at Bulupitiya
Transport Our faithful Push Cycles
Activities Cycling
Weather Excellent
Route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • All you need know about our trip is nicely summarized by Priyanjan in this post
  • What did we carry? Here is the list
  • Thank you Priyanjan for planing this trip fro A to Z. If not for your planing and execution I wouldn’t have even dreamed of doing this tour on my own!

** A BIG THANK to ALL of YOU who HELPED us in may different ways. Some of them good friends who knew us for long, some of them we met on the way for the first time. Without all of you we wouldn’t have made it! **

Author  Mithila
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It dawned to the second day of our cycle tour across the country. By 6.00 a.m. we were on the road leaving Uhana, heading towards Polwatta Junction. The Himidurawa road to Polwatta was great cycling route with lots of scenery and diversity.

Hello, where are you two heading today?

Hello, where are you two heading today?

The irrigation canal bringing water from Inginiyagala reservoir (Senanayake Samudraya)

The irrigation canal bringing water from Inginiyagala reservoir (Senanayake Samudraya)

Himidurawa Tank

Himidurawa Tank

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Himidurawa bunt road

Himidurawa bunt road

Reflection

Reflection – Himidurawa Tank

Old and abandoned

Old and abandoned

AB001

AB001

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Beautiful!

Pragahakele Town

At Pragahakele Town

It was at Paragahakele town that we met වෑවල වසන්ත අය්යා. We stopped by him to reconfirm the route. Looking at Priyanjan, his first remark was “සුද්දෙක් නේද?”

Surprising වසන්ත අය්යා and his mates, Sudda started the conversation in perfect Sinhalese! A friendly chit chat continued for several minutes, for the most part of it it was us trying hard to rationalize why we were doing what we claimed we were up to; “a cross country cycle trip” :-)

Most interestingly, after all that friendly chit chat, wasantha ayya’s parting remark was මහත්තය කොච්චර සිංහල කතාකලත් ලංකාව නම් නෙමෙයි! :-)

Passing Paragahakele we continue towards Polwatta Junction enjoying the early morning beauty of the area.

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Ready to Cultivate

Ready to Cultivate

Life - Flowing from Inginiyagala

Life – Flowing from Inginiyagala

Paragahakele Lake

Paragahakele Lake

Reflection once again!

Reflection once again!

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we reached Polwatta junction few minutes past 8.00 a.m. We turned right to head towards Bibile from Polwatta, continuing our journey inland. At the junction we stopped for breakfast.

Road to Bibile via Namal Oya

Road to Bibile via Namal Oya

Crossing the Irrigation Canal

Crossing the Irrigation Canal

Breakfast Stop

Breakfast Stop

....and this is what we had for breakfast

….and this is what we had for breakfast

After breakfast we paid a quick visit to Owagiriya Temple which was the planned night park for the day before. After informing the monks about the change of plans we continued our ride towards Namal Oya.

The beautiful scenery continued

Beautiful scenery continued

Towards Namal Oya

Towards Namal Oya

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Where the Namal Oya bus terminate

Where Namal Oya bus terminates

We had a cup of team from the only kade there and started our ride across the bund of the  beautiful Namal Oya reservoir. It was an absolutely stunning site.

Click Click Click .....

Click Click Click …..

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Namal Oya reservior

Namal Oya reservior

Colorful

Colorful

What a sight

What a sight!

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Passing NamalOya Reservoir we entered Galoya National Park. The road was in good shape and trees on either side were providing reasonable cover from the rising sun. So we leisurely paddled through the park for the next several kilometers. The road was bit hilly, which meant that we did some pushing in between, but we were compensated equally with long and mild “Down the Pallams” :-)

Goodbye "East"

Goodbye “East” – Click Image to Enlarge

Here we come!!!

Here we come!!!

Beautiful Scenary

Beautiful Scenary

A giant standing tall

A giant standing tall

As we came out of the national park we stopped at රාලහාමි අක්කාගෙ කඩේ for some hot tea. We were warmly welcomed by both රාලහාමි අක්කා and her brother who happened to be there at the time of our arrival.

After the usual inquiries around what we were up to, Ralahami Akka’s brother said, ඒත් මම අක්කට කිව්ව ඔන්නෙ සුද්දො දෙන්නෙක් එනවා ඔරලොසුවත් විකුනන්නද දන්නෙනෑ කියල. Apparently some backpackers bring fancy items along with them as merchandise to pay for their tour!

රාලහාමි අක්කගෙ කඩේ

රාලහාමි අක්කගෙ කඩේ

We enjoyed the great hospitality and interesting chit chat over the cup of tea and said good bye to both of them and started heading towards Nilgala.

Bibile-Nilgala Forest

Bibile-Nilgala Forest

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Remnants of the dark years - Hopefully abandoned for ever!

Remnants of the dark years – Hopefully abandoned for ever!

Interesting Frame

Interesting Frame

Typical "Nilgala" vegetation

Typical “Nilgala” vegetation

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Then we reached the first “Big Climb” of our tour. It was “Makada Kanda”, roughly 150m elevation gain over approximately 4km stretch with couple of hair-pin bends. Pushing two heavy cycles up on a steep road was much tougher than we expected ! It took us a full hour of huffing and puffing, stopping every 10 minutes or so to catch our breath to reach the top.

This is where it all started

This is where it all started

Up up and further up

Up up and further up

Stopping every 10 minutes to catch the breath

Stopping every 10 minutes to catch the breath

ජීවිත 16 බිළිගත් මාකඩ කන්ද

ජීවිත 16 බිළිගත් මාකඩ කන්ද

More sharp bends to push up hills through

More sharp bends to push up hills through

View from the top

View from the top

This is where we came from

This is where we came from

Finally we are at the top

Finally we are at the top :-)

After the great push it was time to sit back and relax while gravity did its job taking us down the hills to Rathugala at record speed! Passing Rathugala we reached our night park location for the day at Bulupitiya.

නීතිය ගැන දැනුවත් වෙමු

නීතිය ගැන දැනුවත් වෙමු

Towards Bulupitiya

Towards Bulupitiya

It was around 5 p.m. by the time we reached Bulupitiya. There was a police post (Karandugala Post) so we first went there to inform them of our presence.

Then it was time for a cup of tea. As usual we went to a small තේ කඩේ and it started all over again! මහත්තයල කොහේද යන්නෙ? මේ බයිසිකල් වලින්ම! ඉතින් මොකටද මේ යන්නෙ? මහත්තයල විශ්වවිද්‍යාලයකින්ද? සමීක්ෂණයක්වත් කරනවද මෙහේ? මහත්තයල ඔය කියන ගමන නිකම්ම යනව වෙන්න නම් බෑ

By this time we knew that patiently answering these questions was the way to break ice and be friendly with the locals. So after few minutes there was Mithila and Priyanjan sitting on the “Pila” of the small kade, chatting to everyone who bothered to stop by :-)

One of them we met there was an 85 year old gentlemen. He has worked on construction of Inginiyagala Dam and the Ampara Air Field many decades ago and knew the area before the Inginiyagala dam was built. He told us what “Makara” and “Gilma” in Galoya really were before the Senanayake Samudraya swallowed up the whole area. It was so interesting to listen to him.

After about an hour of chit chat we returned to the temple. A malli we met brought us two dinner packets from a nearby home. Then it was time to go to sleep in our faithful tent, this time pitched in the “Bana Maduwa” of the temple.

The temple

The temple

Good Night

Good Night

Continue to Next Report – Memorable Ride through Nilgala Forest

Huffing & Puffing…… from East to West – To Ampara through Vast Farm Lands of East

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Year and Month April, 2012
Number of Days Day 2 of a Nine(9) Day Trip (Reports of Day 012345678)
Crew 2
Accommodation Residence of a good friend at Ampara
Transport Our faithful Push Cycles
Activities Cycling
Weather Excellent for the most part but got caught to rain during the latter part of the day for about two hours
Route
  1. Sangamankanda Point -> Kanchirankudha -> Sagama -> Veheragala -> Ambalamoya -> Damana -> Hingurana -> Ampara (68Km)
  2. Download Google Earth Trail map with both Planned and Actual tracks
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • All you need know about our trip is nicely summarized by Priyanjan in this post
  • What did we carry? Here is the list
  • Thank you Priyanjan for planing this trip fro A to Z. If not for your planing and execution I wouldn’t have even dreamed of doing this tour on my own!

** A BIG THANK to ALL of YOU who HELPED us in may different ways. Some of them good friends who knew us for long, some of them we met on the way for the first time. Without all of you we wouldn’t have made it! **

Author  Mithila
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After a good night sleep, we woke up around 5.00 a.m.

We wanted to leave as early as possible but we also wanted to make sure that we see the sunrise from the eastern most point. With what we experienced in the previous day we were determined to ride as much as possible before noon. So we loaded everything in bicycles first and then went to the beach to see the sunrise.

The beacon and the twilight zone

The beacon and the twilight zone

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The Moon, Beacon and the Clouds

The Moon, Beacon and the Clouds

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The Golden Beach

The Golden Beach

Wow!

Wow!

Few minutes before 6.00 a.m. we witnessed the rising sun!

Just before Sun Rise

Just before Sun Rise

There it is!

There it is!

We spent another few minutes enjoying the magnificent sunrise from the eastern most point of Sri Lanka

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Then we said good bye to Ganesh and left the beach hut at 7.30 a.m. Ride back to the main road (A4) was very pleasant at this time of the day.

Now it is so cool and pleasant

Now it is so cool and pleasant

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Good Morning

Good Morning

Two Long Shadows!

Two Long Shadows!

On the paved road indicates that we are close to the A4 now

On the paved road; we are close to the A4 now

Ready move from the Night Parking Location

Ready to move from Night Parking Location

The junction on A4

The junction on A4

This is where we came from

This is where we came from

Our destination of the day was Ampara. The planned route was via Sagama. To reach Sagama we had to ride about 8km along the A4 and then turn inland at Kanchirankudha (Kanchanakuda).

The Inviting A4 - It was such a pleasure to cycle on this

The Inviting A4 – It was such a pleasure to cycle on this

Endless Paddy Fields on both sides of A4

Endless Paddy Fields on both sides of A4

Good Road Does not mean A Safe Road

Good Road Does not mean A Safe Road

.

Speed will Bring Death!

Speed will Bring Death!

Being too slow can also bring death!

Being too slow can also bring death!

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Kanchirankudha

Kanchirankudha

We paddled few more kilometers to reach the junction where the roard towards Sagama branched off from the A4. Again there was a lot to see along the way.

The double loop

The double loop

Balance!

Balance!

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Where have all the tractors gone?

Where have all the tractors gone?

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කුමුදු මල්

කුමුදු මල්

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Take the left turn

Take the left turn

At Kanchirankudha junction we stopped at a lonely wayside kade for breakfast.

Breakfast Place

Yum Yum ......

Yum Yum ……

After Breakfast we were back on the raod. Now heading inland towards Sagama

B002

B002

Sagama Tank

Sagama Tank

Whereabouts

Whereabouts

This is what that sign board meant!

This is what that sign board meant!

History never to be repeated!

History never to be repeated!

සරු පොළව

සරු පොළව

.

.

Passing Sagama tank we turned left on to an unpaved road through vast paddy fields extending beyond horizon on either sides of the gravel road. As it was cultivating season, fiedls were buzzing with activity.

Fields Extending Beyond the Horizon

Fields Extending Beyond the Horizon

Perspective

Perspective

Busy at work

Busy at work

Just Planted

Just Planted

Our next milestone was to reach Ambalamoya tank but none of the farmers we met seemed to know where it is! We quickly realized that were asking the wrong question. So we switched the question to “Where does this road lead to” and there came the answer instantly; “to Manthottam” and that is what they call the area marked in the map as “AmbalamOya”

Few hours later we reached AmbalamOya junction via Veheragala, riding through some of the most picture perfect landscapes of the east. Passing Veheragala a narrow paved road took us to AmbalanOya tank.

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Over folwing Hapiness

Over folwing Hapiness

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Water the life blood

Water the life blood

No wonder it is a busy place :-)

A fuel Station

A fuel Station

Beautiful Ambalamoya tank

Beautiful Ambalamoya tank

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Passing Ambalamoya tank we continued towards Ambalamoya junction via Madalalanda. The last stretch of the road was badly damaged by frequent heavy vehicle traffic. It was almost a nightmare to ride on those dusty, bumpy roads under simmering heat, frequently being surprised by trucks going past us at breakneck speed!

An Approaching monster

An Approaching monster

Passing us breakneck speed leaving a dust cloud behind

Passing us breakneck speed leaving a dust cloud behind

Avurud is already here by the 9th April

Avurud is already here by the 9th April

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We reached Ambalamoya junction just past noon. Soon after our arrival it started to rain! We had little option but to wait for the rain to stop. So we decided to stop their for Lunch. Some Kimbula Banis from Sunil Stores at the junction was such a tasty lunch I must say :-)

Stopped by the rain

Stopped by the rain

Our route beyond Ambalanoya was via Ekgaloya with planned night stop at Ovagiriya Temple on Namal Oya road. However the prevailing weather made us think that it is a better option to night park in Ampara at a residence of a good friend. After rain stopped we continued towards Ampara.

On a wide, Paved, Flat road once again

On a wide, Paved, Flat road once again

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Rain stopped us once again.. and this what sheltered us

Rain stopped us once again.. and this is what sheltered us

We honored the request

We honored the humble request :-)

Back on road more paddling ahead

Back on road, more paddling ahead

Rain Rain go Away

Rain Rain go Away

Sugar cane land at Sewanagala

Sugar cane land at Sewanagala

Harvesting

Harvesting

A25

A25

Wayside food

Wayside food

and Drinks

….and Drinks

Crossing Galoya

Crossing Galoya

තැඹිලි!!!!

තැඹිලි!!!!

We reached our destination, the official residence of a good friend at Ampara by 5.00 p.m.

After some  great dinner it was time for a good night sleep.

Continue to Next Report – Nilgala via Himidurawa, Namaloya, Galoya and Rathugala

Huffing & Puffing…… from East to West – Reaching the Eastern Most Point

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Year and Month April, 2012
Number of Days Day 1 of a Nine(9) Day Trip (Reports of Day 012345678)
Crew 2
Accommodation Ranga’s Beach Hut – Sangamankanda (Komari) Beach
Transport Our faithful Push Cycles
Activities Cycling
Weather Excellent
Route Pottuvil -> Augambay -> Pottuvil -> Sangaman Kanda -> Sangamankanda (Komari) Beach (The eastern most point of Sri Lanka)
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • All you need know about our trip is nicely summarized by Priyanjan in this post
  • What did we carry? Here is the list
  • Thank you Priyanjan for planing this trip fro A to Z. If not for your planing and execution I wouldn’t have even dreamed of doing this tour on my own!
** A BIG THANK to ALL of YOU who HELPED us in may different ways. Some of them good friends who knew us for long, some of them we met on the way for the first time. Without all of you we wouldn’t have made it! **
Author  Mithila
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Night of 7th April 2012. I was waiting  for the Poththuvil bus at Kaduwela junction. The bus was expected in Kaduwela at 9.45p.m.

The bus arrived on time. Since we had spoken to the bus crew in advance they had seats reserved for me and Priyanjan. With extra loud music on, the bus sped along deserted roads at night.

At Wellawaya Priyanjan got in. We were on schedule to reach Pottuvil at 6.00 a.m. on the 8th April.

Sun Rise

Sun Rise – Captured from the moving bus (at break neck speed!)

Good Morning

Good Morning

Once in Pottuvil, the next task was to collect our machines! Hauling two cycles to east was made quite simple by Theshantha who picked those up from where we were and carried them to Arugambay in his double cab on his way to Kumana about a week earlier. Priyanjan arranged a place to safe keep the cycles in Arugambay.

Two of us took a Tuk-Tuk to Arugambay which took may be 10 minutes from Pottuvil bus stand to reach Arugambay. We then collected our machines. It took us about an hour to load the cycles with what we brought in our back packs.

Ulla - Arugambay

At Ulla (Arugambay)

Ready to depart

Ready to depart!

By 7.00 a.m. we were back on the A4 highway, heading north towards Sangamankanda, where the eastern most point of Sri Lanka is located.

The easternmost point which is also know as Sangamankanda (Komari) point  is about 25km north from Arugambay. The newly paved A4 was in great shape and cycling on almost flat, brand new tarmac was a breeze!

The Long Shadow - Still quite early in the morning

The Long Shadow – Still quite early in the morning

Tsunami Domes

Tsunami Domes

We were mesmerized by the beauty of the surrounding. Life was going on as usual in this far eastern part of the island as the two of us casually proceeded towards Sangamankanda at constant 10kmph speed.

We soon realized how much more you see when cycling as opposed to driving on the very same roads.

Green and Blue

Green and Blue

Cycling on Flat Brand new Tarmac was a breeze

Cycling on Flat Brand new Tarmac was a breeze

Colorful!

Colorful!

Ducks!

Ducks!

Reeds and the Boat

Reeds and the Boat

Blooming!

Blooming!

327 km on A4 (I believe measured from Colombo)

327 km on A4 (I believe measured from Colombo)

Komari

Komari

The Life's Routine

The Life’s Routine

Fully Loaded!

Triple Nelson and the Fully Loaded 2WDs :-)

Breakfast!

Breakfast!

Wow!

Wow!

Arriving at the destination

Arriving at the destination

Brand new Tarmac

Brand new Tarmac

Beauty of Sangamankanda

Beauty of Sangamankanda

Turning off from A4 towards the beach in search of the easternmost point

Turning off from A4 towards beach in search of the eastern most point

Turning towards beach from A4, our next task was to find the “Ranga’s Beach Hut” which was supposed to be in the Sangamankanda beach few hundred meters from the eastern most point. Time was close to noon and the heat was quite high. We felt like we were in an oven with both upper and lower heaters on!

Distance to destination from A4 was about 4km. However it was not that straight forward to find Ranga’s hut. We got lost in a confusing mesh of foot paths through scrub forest and farm lands which made us battle through the heat and sand for about 1-1.5 hrs before we reached Ranga’s hut.

As we turned from A4 is was a wide paved road however it soon reduced to this!

As we turned from A4 is was a wide paved road, however it soon reduced to this!

Hot sun and Hot Sand - the oven with both upper and lower heaters ON

Hot sun and Hot Sand – the oven with both upper and lower heaters ON

Final stretch before Ranga's Hut was particularly sandy

Final stretch before Ranga’s Hut was particularly sandy

The final push in hot sand!

Final push in hot sand!

We are there finally!

We are there finally – What a relief

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Ranga’s Beach Hut was a place meant for Surfers who arrive here from all around the world during the surfing season. Apparently Komari beach is one of the best Surfing locations in the world.

Since it was off-season for surfing, we had this nice beach hut all for our selves!

Ranga's Beach Hut - Sangamankanda

Ranga’s Beach Hut – Sangamankanda

Nice and Comfortable

Nice and Comfortable

After a quick lunch (some vegetable rotti we brought with us) it was time to take some rest until the heat subsided. Around 4.30 p.m. we paid a visit to beach and what remains from an old beacon which once stood at the eastern most point guiding sailors.

View from Ranga's Hut

View from Ranga’s Hut

Beautiful Beach

Beautiful Beach next to Ranga’s Hut

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What remains from the old beacon which once stood at the easternmost point

What remains from the old beacon which once stood at the easternmost point

The caretaker of the hut, Ganesh, kindly cooked us some delicious dinner. After witnessing a perfect “Moon Rise” over Palmyra fringed beach, we went to sleep in our little tent pitched on the sleeping platform!

Perfect Moon Rise

Perfect Moon Rise

Right from the first night, this little tent assured us a good night sleep free from mosquitos and other crawlies

Continue to Next Report – To Ampara through vast farm lands of the east

The Land of the Horses – Delft & Re-awakening Jaffna

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Year and Month February, 2013 (15th to 17th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 3 (between 29-31 years of age)
Accommodation Udayan Rest, 392/6, Near Kailasapillaiyer Kovil, Navalar Road, Jaffna. 021-2225660 Ravi – 0778-599701
Transport
  • Public Transport (Bus / Train / Ferry / Hired Tuk-tuk)
  • Thinakaran Bus Service to Jaffna (2429668 / 2429673 – Lake House, Colombo) – Rs. 1335/- per person
  • Leaving Wellawatte Rama Krishna Rd stand at 9.30pm – Reaching Jaffna around 7.30am
  • From Jaffna to Vavuniya by bus (takes around 3.5 hours, Rs. 173/-) Then, Train from Vavuniya at 3.10 pm (Reaching Fort by 8.00pm)
Activities Photography / Sacred Places / Sight-seeing
Weather Excellent
Route
  • Wellawatte -> Jaffna -> Kadurugoda (Kandaroddai) -> Keerimalai -> Dambakola Patuna -> Jaffna Fort
  • Jaffna -> Kurikkattuwan (Nagadeepa Jetty) -> Delft and return on the same route.
  •  Jaffna -> Vavuniya -> Colombo Fort

 

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Thinakaran bus service is very good and highly recommendable (pre-booking is advisable from the Lake House) – Rs. 1335/- per person. WebSite
  • Always a good idea to use the train whenever possible (From Vavuniya to Colombo – 3.10pm)
  • It would be an added bonus if there’s one person who can speak at least passable Tamil as many of them can’t speak Sinhala or English.
  • We did the Jaffna tour (Kadurugoda; Keerimalai; Dambakola Patuna; Fort; Archeological Museum) for Rs. 2500/-. (Contact Modhalal – 0773-452928 or his Brother Mayuran – 0779-353031). Modhi can speak a bit of English and Sinhala, but Mayuran can’t speak either.
  • If you want to do the Delft tour, Bimalan is the ideal person. Contact him on 0773-945146 – He has a Green Tuk-tuk (YE-0762). He charged Rs. 1500/- for the whole Delft tour, money well-spent.
  • Ferry to Delft leaves the same jetty as the Nagadeepa. There’s one at 9.00am from Kurikkattuwan and it takes 1 hour to reach Delft. The Ferry is Kumuthini and free of charge. The return one is the same and from Delft it’s 2.30pm. Take the Kurikkattuwan bus from Jaffna bus stand. (Private at 6.30am and CTB around 6.45am) and you can reach Kurikkattuwan by 7.30am. The ticket is Rs. 73/- per person.
  • The palace named Rajamanthri Walauwa, it’s not known by many people. Take the Point Pedro bus from Jaffna and ask them to drop you at King Sangili Statue. From there walk straight on the same road about 200m and you can see the palace on your left. In front of the palace there’s a road “Jamuna” and if you go along this and turn to your right, it should lead you to “Yamuna Pond”. However, ask the villagers for directions too. (Check out Christy’s Jaffna – Micro Attractions for more info on King Sangili who was a very brutal king.)
  • Take your swimming costume if you go to Delft, as it has one of the best virgin beaches in the whole world and stretches miles into the horizon and very shallow.
  • It’s ideal to have a tourist map as it’s really easy to find where everything is.
  • There’s a nice place called Malayan Café on Grand Bazaar street and don’t forget to have their delicious Thosai and Ulundu Wadai. Excellent service and very reasonable prices.
  • Carry plenty of water as the drinking water is hard to come by and what’s available is brackish.
  • At Delft, there’s no eating place, not even a Thosai Kade, so take something to eat. This is due to the lack of fresh water availability. Bimalan will show you a place to have some cool drinks. Even the Navy’s running a canteen and the prices are very low there.

 

Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Having read so many interesting reports on Delft and Jaffna, I decided to visit the Peninsula yet again. Coz last time, I only managed a few places.

So I decided to do a bit more comprehensive Jaffna tour and a trip to the Delft Island which is the biggest of island of Sri Lanka.
So I checked the bus services available and Thinakaran Express of Lake House came highly recommended and it really was great. I booked the tickets for that and for the return journey, the train from Vavuniya at 3.10pm.

On 14th, we got onto the bus at Rama Krishna road in Wellawatte around 8.45pm. The bus left around 9.30pm and reached the Lake House for them to take more passengers and their papers for the following day (That’s the main reason they’ve introduced a bus service so that they could make some money while delivering the papers to the peninsula). The service was great and they showed the controversial movie “Vishwa Roopam” on DVD.

However, unlike most other services, the noise levels are not too high and after around 11.30pm, the DVD is completely switched off so that people can sleep in peace.

Day 01. – Kadurugoda Temple / Keerimalai / Dambakola Patuna / Jaffna Dutch Fort / Archeological Museum

We reached Jaffna around 7.30am and took a tuk-tuk to the Uthayan Rest. (Always check with the tuk-tuk drivers about the prices as they sometimes don’t understand what you are saying or try to rob you in daylight whenever possible)

Ravi, the Caretaker at the Uthayan Rest, was there to meet us. He really is a wonderful person who tries his level best to make sure your stay is comfortable. Uthayan Rest doesn’t make meals, but provide you from outside. Ravi makes sure that you’re getting the best and not over charged.

After a typical Jaffna-style string hoppers, pittu and curries, we got into Mayuran’s brand new TVS tuk-tuk around 9.00am. We took the Palali Road, and around mid-way, I saw some beautiful plantations and immediately recognized them to be grapes. I checked with Bimalan, mostly in sign-language, if we could take a few pictures at one of the places and he happily obliged.

The one we went was about 40 perches and there was an elderly person fertilizing the creepers. When we asked if we could take pictures of the place, he was very happy and showed us around and gave a comprehensive explanation. Unfortunately, we understood only a few things coz our Tamil knowledge was minimal. It was the first time I visited a grapes plantation and it really looked gorgeous. There were green bunches of grapes hanging from creepers and it really was something to look at.

 

Udayan Rest Garden from our Room (1st Floor)

Udayan Rest Garden from our Room (1st Floor)

Wow....

Wow….

Beautifully done

Beautifully done

Not ripe yet

Not ripe yet

Couldn't resist

Couldn’t resist

Afterwards, we went further up and turned left towards Manipay road and along the Uduvil road up to Kadurugoda Temple. It’s yet another sacred area under threats by the locals as the temple premises is being captured and looted by them. The area which used to be more than 7 acres now reduced to around 3 acres. The temple houses 56 pagodas (now only about 30 visible) containing sacred relics of 60 Monks (Rahathan Wahansela). There are no monks nowadays but the Army soldiers to protect it from those bandits. One soldier said the fences start walking if they are not there. I guess the relevant people must look after these places and make sure they are protected for the future.

 

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The Legend

The Legend – Click Image to Enlarge

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Remaining Pagodas

Remaining Pagodas

One of the big ones

One of the big ones

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The Budu Medura in a shed

The Budu Medura in a shed

Our next stop was Keerimalai. We traveled along the KKS road passing Chunnakam and Tellippalai. We then reached the Maviddapuram Kandasamy Kovil at the Maviddapuram junction where we can see the KKS cement factory clearly. I wanted to go see the place but the Military police politely declined our request as we had no prior approval. Disappointed, we took the left turn towards Keerimalai. It really was something to see and one of my friends decided to go for a swim in the famous pond over there. Surprisingly the water was not salty even though it’s only a stone wall between the pond and the sea.

 

Maviddapuram Kandasamy Kovil

Maviddapuram Kandasamy Kovil

KKS Cement Factory

KKS Cement Factory

Keerimalai

Keerimalai

Good place to play too

Good place to play too

Religious ceremonies

Religious ceremonies

The water is surprisingly not salty and sticky

The water is surprisingly not salty and sticky

Afterwards, it was time to visit the Dambakola Patuna where Sangamittha Theraniya brought the sacred Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi to Sri Lanka. Navy came “Agbo” is located near the temple and they have renovated the temple and now looking after it so that we can worship in peace. It really was a very peaceful place and they even have built a replica of the ship that brought Sangamittha Theraniya to Sri Lanka. Don’t forget to have Belimal from the Navy canteen there with original Thal Hakuru.

 

Waiting patiently

Waiting patiently

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Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

The replica

The replica

Sangamitta Theraniya

Sangamitta Theraniya

Dolosmahe Pahana

Dolosmahe Pahana

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The scene depicted well here

The scene depicted well here

The path she took to reach Dambakola Patuna

The path she took to reach Dambakola Patuna – Click Image to Enlarge

They certainly are unforgettable - Click Image to Enlarge

They certainly are unforgettable – Click Image to Enlarge

Don't forget to have a cuppa

Don’t forget to have a cuppa – Click Image to Enlarge

Afterwards, we took Mathigal-Sandippai road to reach Jaffna and went around seeing the famous Jaffna fort. It was threatening to rain and started drizzling. However, it didn’t last long and we managed to do a thorough tour of the fort. It’s being renovated to its former glory and hopefully be finished very soon. It was around 2.00pm by the time we finished seeing the fort and feeling ravenous.

I told Mayuran that we need a good place to have thosai and wadai and he took us to the Grand Bazaar Street and stopped at Malayan Café. The thosai and Ulundu wadai was delicious and the service was grand. They serve you on a Banana leaf and the Sambar Curry was excellent. It had everything from Dhal, Beans, Egg Plant, Potatoes and Cucumber. 5 Thosai and 5 Ulundu wadai cost us only Rs. 290/-. Once you’ve finished eating, you have to take the banana leaf and put it into the garbage area. They only bring you the bill, and you have to take it to the cashier and make the payment. It really was a funny thing coz it deprives of the waiters getting any tips.

Afterwards, we got into the tuk-tuk and reached the Archeological Museum which is around 300m from the Uthayan Rest itself. There ended our tour with Mayuran and he charged us Rs. 2500/- for the whole tour which must have been more than 50km and it really was worth.

The museum is in an old property on Navalar road, and has so many old things from Statues, sketches to so much more. It’s apparently forbidden to take the pictures inside the museum but we managed to get the permission from the caretakers.

Entering into the fort

Entering into the fort

The walls had been painted with maps

The walls had been painted with maps

Must be the world atlas

Must be the world atlas

The central tower

The central tower

All in ruins

All in ruins

The canal surrounding the fort

The canal surrounding the fort

Being renovated

Being renovated

Archaeological Museum is behind

Archaeological Museum is behind

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

The Skeleton of a whale

The Skeleton of a whale

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Dutch artillery

Dutch artillery

Wooden sculpture

Wooden sculpture

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Reminds me of Ambekke (This is called Kenimadala)

Reminds me of Ambekke (This is called Kenimadala)

Must be something used in their festivals

Must be something used in their festivals

Dolawa (on the right for the Ladies and the left for the men)

Dolawa (on the right for the Ladies and the left for the men)

Oldest Telephone????

Oldest Telephone????

Surgical items (wouldn't wanna be operated by these)

Surgical items (wouldn’t wanna be operated by these)

Found in Mannar

Found in Mannar

Carved Lion's head

Carved Lion’s head

Telescope

Telescope

Queen Victoria's painting

Queen Victoria’s painting

Found in Kadurugoda

Found in Kadurugoda

Dutch Sign

Dutch Sign

After about an hour, we reached the Rest and had a wash. When someone visits Jaffna, there’s a place you shouldn’t miss. That’s the Rio ice cream shop and it’s a hallmark in Jaffna. We walked up to the Nallur Kovil and then took a left to the Rio Ice Cream shop and had Chocolate and Nuts which was tasty.

Then it was time to call it a day and after a tasty dinner with typical Jaffna-crab curry and turned in for the night.

Nallur Kovil

Nallur Kovil

Rio Chocolate and nuts ice cream

Rio Chocolate and nuts ice cream

Not an easy life

Not an easy life

Still hunting for fish

Still hunting for fish

Giant Paraw fish

Giant Paraw fish

Couldn't get the name

Couldn’t get the name

Famous Kattawa dried fish

Famous Kattawa dried fish

 

Day 02 – Delft Island / Yamuna Pond / Rajamanthri Walawwa

After so much protest from my friends, I got them up and running around 5.00am. Ravi very kindly prepared tea and arranged a tuk-tuk for us to go to the Bus Stand. We reached the bus stand around 6.10am, and a CTB bus was there and got into it immediately. However, there was a private bus too and it left at 6.30am and I started to get worried as we couldn’t afford to miss the only ferry to the Delft.

We then around 6.50am left for Kurikkattuwan and it really was roller-coaster ride. The driver was traveling at maddening speed and it took only 40 minutes to reach the jetty which usually takes an hour or more. Sri Lanka has definitely missed a Formula I driver in him. The jetty is about 32km from the Jaffna town. We got off at the Jetty and it’s the same as you get on board to the Nagadeepa. They now have introduced a semi-luxury ferry to the Nagadeepa called “Mani Nagadeepa”.

We were hanging about till the ferry was ready to leave at 9.00am and it’s for free. There’s another boat that carry goods to the island called “Save the Children” and it too takes passengers providing there’s enough space and they charge Rs. 60/- per person. The passenger ferry “Kumuthini” takes an hour to reach Delft and the ride was smooth. The life jackets are stinking and hardly wearable. I would’ve liked to drown than wearing one.

Bimalan was waiting at the jetty and we immediately set off. The most significant thing in Delft is that it has no brick walls or chain or Thal leaf fences. Instead, the gardens are marked using blocks of Corals kept on top of the other without using anything to keep them in place such as a cement mixture.

Delft is locally named as Neduntheevu. The island’s area is 50 km² and it is roughly oval-shaped. Its length is 8 km and its maximum width about 6 km.

Delft is a flat island surrounded by shallow waters and beaches of coral chunks and sand. There are horses (In reality they are the feral ponies) on the island that ware abandoned after Dutch period. The island was named after the Dutch city of Delft by Rijckloff van Goens. He named the eight most important islands after Dutch cities, but the seven others are now named with domestic names.

Things to see at Delft, in the order we saw them.

  1. Famous Pigeon House and the Court Complex – This really was amazing to see in person as opposed to see it in pictures. Bimalan said it used to send messages. The Court complex still has the symbol and the year says on it 1905.
  2. Dutch Fort (Through the Hospital) – You have to go through the Delft hospital to reach this and it’s in ruins now and however, has walls still rising to the skies. We can still climb to the first level and it needs protecting as soon as possible.
  3. The Tank – This is another sad story of the Delft, coz the legend says that the Dutch wanted to breed horses and get people to work for them, plus they wanted the land so that the horses could be fed using the grass grown. However, Delft was near self-sufficient due to the fresh water tank as it contained the people used to grow everything they wanted and had no desire to work for the Dutch or the English. They then did a very wicked thing one could imagine. They dug a canal from the sea to the tank so the sea water mixed with the fresh water and made using that water for drinking and farms redundant. So the people were left with no choice other than slaving for them.
  4. Fresh Water Wells – These wells provide Delft with water, however Bimalan told us that’s the drinking water is very hard to find and specially in April and after when the drought hits, things get very worse.
  5. Wild Horses – Such beauty I’ve never seen before. It was so nice to watch them running about. That’s the icing on the cake.
  6. The Giant’s foot-print – This is another amazing thing and it looks like a huge right foot print. Even though, the toes are not visible, the shape is very much like a foot. It’s on a rock surface and difficult to believe even a giant could print his foot on a rock surface like that.
  7. The stone stable – This is the place where horse were kept. The whole stable was made of rocks and corals.
  8. Pagodas – We now can see the remains of the foundations of two Stupa. There’s has been an attempt to build the foundations and try to raise them back. It seems apparently that the treasure hunters had been at work there too.
  9. The Swimming Beach – This is something to cherish as the sea stretches into the horizon miles and looks sparkling in the glistening sun. I’ve never seen such a beautiful beach and vivid colors anywhere else. One my friends couldn’t resist the temptation and he went about 1km into the sea and still it was around his waist height.
  10. Baob Tree – This is the biggest tree I’ve ever seen and very unlikely to see a bigger one. The tree must be about 40 feet in circumference. It has a whole in the middle where about 10 people can stay.
  11. Growing Stone – This is another interesting thing. Bimalan said it really is growing and people worship it in big time. I guess there must be something in it for the people to believe in such a thing called stone growing.

We finished our tour around 1.00pm and sadly there was no such place called a hotel to have lunch. This is mainly due to the fact that they haven’t got a proper supply for fresh water. We then had to wait at the jetty till 2.30pm for the ferry back.

Kurikkatuwan Jetty

Kurikkatuwan Jetty

Semi-luxury ferry service to Nagadeepa

Semi-luxury ferry service to Nagadeepa

Nagadeepa looming in the distance

Nagadeepa looming in the distance

The meter board on the Ferry

The meter board on the Ferry

View from the pilot's seat

View from the pilot’s seat

Here he is

Here he is

The engine and the fuel supply

The engine and the fuel supply

The engine and the fuel supply

The engine and the fuel supply

"Kumuthini"

“Kumuthini”

Delft Jetty

Delft Jetty

Such vivid colours

Such vivid colours

Pigeon cage and the court complex

Pigeon cage and the court complex

The symbol

The symbol

Up close is grander than on pics

Up close is grander than on pics

Post office at Delft

Post office at Delft

Delft Hospital

Delft Hospital

Through the hospital to the Dutch fort

Through the hospital to the Dutch fort

Behind the Dutch fort

Behind the Dutch fort

All in ruins

All in ruins

Inside

Inside

The entrance

The entrance

Delft Cemetery in the back

Delft Cemetery in the back

The tank in the middle of the island

The tank in the middle of the island

Tame one

Tame one

Oh ho, we've got visitors....

Oh ho, we’ve got visitors….

Better to stay away

Better to stay away

Kachchativu, last land mass of SL before India lies 10km from here and from Kachchative it's barely 12km to India

Kachchativu, last land mass of SL before India lies 10km from here and from Kachchative it’s barely 12km to India

Horse’s skull being used as a Scarecrow

Horse’s skull being used as a Scarecrow

Giant's foot print

Giant’s foot print

Stone Stable

Stone Stable

Pagoda foundation

Pagoda foundation

Small one

Small one

Tell me if you can resist taking a bath here

Tell me if you can resist taking a bath here

Inside is plenty of room

Inside is plenty of room

Mammoth tree

Mammoth tree

Inside

Inside

Growing stone

Growing stone

Up close

Up close

Navy still on the move

Navy still on the move

SL Coast Guards too

SL Coast Guards too

Guess who won???

Guess who won???

We reached Kurikkattuwan around 3.35pm and our morning bus was there. I happily got into it and expected another mad run. However, it wasn’t like in the morning even though he broke so many records. It was around 4.30pm when we reached Jaffna and feeling hungry like wolves and headed straight to our friendly water hole, Malayan Café. After yet another thosai and Ulundu wadai feast, we took a Point Pedro bus and got off at the King Sangili statue. This was largely due to Christy’s report that I wanted to go see this and we went towards the Church behind it and a group of boys showed us the way to the Yamuna Pond which is about 600m from the Statue. (There’s a proper Road in front of the Rajamanthri Walawwa).

It’s said that the Yamuna pond was where the queen of the Rajamanthri Minister bathed and there allegedly was a tunnel dug from the Walawwa to the pond where she could go and bathe without being seen by anyone. The steps leading to the pond is still there and nowadays it’s being used by other people and we could see a few tubes running from the pond to the nearby houses.

Then it was time to go see the Rajamanthri Walawwa and we almost gave up on that as no one knew about it. This might have been that they didn’t understand what we were trying to ask. However, Dimuthu pushed on the Point Pedro road saying that it must be there and he was dead right. It was about 200m from the Statue onto the left side and the Archeological Department had put up a sign saying it’s a protected area but the gate was open so we helped ourselves.

It’s in ruins and must’ve looked grand in its prime time. However, we could see the well in the house is being used by the nearby people and saw some ladies’ under skirts hanging too. The place apparently used as the tunnel now being used as a dumping place by the same villages and we could see heaps of garbage in it.

After that, it was time for another ice cream at Rio. Tired but exhilarated we went back to the Uthayan Rest and Ravi was waiting at the top of the road wondering if we had lost our way. After yet another tasty dinner we fell asleep and got up to go back to Colombo.

Don't forget to taste their thosai and ulundu wadai

Don’t forget to taste their thosai and ulundu wadai

Here's the King Sangili

Here’s the King Sangili

Yamuna Pond

Yamuna Pond

Steps leading to the pond

Steps leading to the pond

Rajamanthri Walawwa

Rajamanthri Walawwa

From behind

From behind

The well

The well

Still standing tall

Still standing tall

This should give us a clue

This should give us a clue

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The entrance may have been to the tunnel, now being used as a dumping area

The entrance may have been to the tunnel, now being used as a dumping area

Second storey is no more reachable

Second storey is no more reachable

Day 03 – Jaffna Station

On our way to the bus stand, we got our tuk-tuk to stop near the Jaffna station which now has become a paradise for all the hooligans and vagabonds. We could see lots of broken bottles and cans lying around. The walls are peppered with bullet holes and all the door and window frames including bathroom ware have been looted.

We took the Vavuniya bus at 9.45am and reached Vavuniya around 1.15pm. Went to one of my school friend’s house in Ambalangodella, 2km from Vavuniya town and had lunch. Then took the 3.10pm Express train and reached Fort by 8.00pm.

What a grand tour it was. We didn’t waste a second and everything fell into place.

Special thanks to Christy for his support getting the info on Uthayan Rest and Jaffna.

Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did and now

From left (Ravi, Me, Podi and Ranjith Kumar)

From left (Ravi, Me, Podi and Ranjith Kumar)

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No one around

No one around

The railway track is not there but will soon be

The railway track is not there but will soon be

Hope to come here one day by train

Hope to come here one day by train

Inside

Inside

From the stairs

From the stairs

"Ananthayata yana para dige" - A9 from Mankulam

“Ananthayata yana para dige” – A9 from Mankulam

 

Visit to the ancient Kingdom of Ruhuna, To see some of the Archeological Buddhist and historical sites unknown to and normally not visited by most travelers

$
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Year and Month February, 2013 (23rd 24th, and 25th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 2 (Myself Driving, my wife)
Accommodation Nilmini Rest Kataragama
Transport Lite Ace van
Activities To see some of the Archeological Buddhist and historical sites unknown to and normally not visited by most travelers
Weather Fine
Route Colombo -> Awissawella -> ratnapura -> Udawalawe -> Lunugam vehere -> Thissamaharama -> Kataragama and return Katargama Ambalantota -> Nonagama -> Embilipitiya -> Ratnapura -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You must carry enough a stock of water and food
Author Soysa
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Places Visited

  • The Ruhunu Kingdom
  • The Tomb of Pussadeva
  • Menik Vehera Dagaba
  • Ethabendigala stone pillar inscription
  • Yatala Vihara dagaba
  • Sandagiri dagaba
  • Sandagiri Godella Shrine Complex
  • Kataragama kiri vehera and dewalaya
  • The Thissamaharama dagaba
  • Pashchimarama Rajamaha Viharaya
  • The Godawaya harbor
  • Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara
  • Theraputthabhaya dagaba
  • Giri Handu Viharaya
  • Ramba Viharaya Complex
Map of Sri Lanka showing the demarcation of the ancient Ruhuna                                                              (Curtsey web of Rhuhunu SanskruthikaMandalaya)

Map of Sri Lanka showing the demarcation of the ancient Ruhuna
(Curtsey web of Rhuhunu SanskruthikaMandalaya) – Click Image to Enlarge

Having following the Television series of the “Maha Sancharakaya” of Mr. Jackson Anthony we both decided to visit some of these historical sites on a visit to Kataragama on the long weekend of 23th to 25rg February 2013.

The Ruhunu Kingdom was a provincial principality, came to focus only when King Detu Gamunu defeating King Elara and unifying the country in the early period of the Anuradhapura Kingdom.

King Vijaya the first king according to “Mahavamsa” rid himself of Kuweni and brought a princess from the South Indian city of Madura and ceremoniously crowned himself King and the princess, the Queen of Lanka.After 38 years of reign in the country and after the demise of the childless King Vijaya, his nephew, Prince Panduvasudeva, the son of his brother Sumitta came to the country and took over the kingdom and ruled from Upatissa Nuwara.He got married to Baddakahchana, a Kastriya Princess from the Sakya clan, and a relative of the Lord Gauthama Buddha.

Six of her brothers accompanied her, named Rohana, Rama, Uruwela, Anuradha, Vijiha and Dighayu. These brothers, with the blessings of King moved out and built their own settlements. Where Anuradha, the brother of Queen Baddakahchana settled, became Anuradhapura, the city that later became the seat of the Kings of the Sinhalese for more than 14 centuries.

About this time also, the country was divided into three provinces of which were I. Pihiti Rata or Raja Rata 2. Maya Rata 3. Ruhunu Rata, while the king reigned at Anuradhapura. Ruhunu and Maya reigned under two sub-kings who were invariably brothers or sons of the king. Since the Sinhalese kings were aware of the needs of the people whose main occupation was agriculture, they, with the advice and guidance of the Maha Sangha, developed the country, giving pride of place to agriculture.

During the period of rule by the Tamil King Elara who ruled from Anuradhapura, the capital of Raja Rata, the two Sub-Divisions of the Island Maya Rata and Ruhuna to the South East were administered by Sub-Kings who were loyal subjects and supporters of the supreme Monarch. At the time Elara ruled at Anuradhapura, Kelani Tissa was king of Maya Rata and Kavan Tissa was king of Ruhuna.

Earlier when King Devanampiyathissa was ruling from Anuradhapura his queen wanted to kill her brother in law Mahanaga in order to give the crown to her son and tried to poison the crown prince ( brother of King Devanampiyathissa ) realizing that his life is in danger Mahanaga left Anuradapura to the Ruhuna.and from there it was another clan was established for the kingship in Ruhuna.

Mahanaga who established a local sovereignty at Magama now Thissamaharama devoted his time to religion. The Tissa Wewa was constructed by him. He was succeeded, at his death, by his son Yatalaka Tissa who fixed his Capital at Kelaniya and built the Kelaniya Dagaba. On the death, Yakalaka Tissa was succeeded by his son, Gotabhaya, who went to Magama again to reign at his grandfather’s capital, leaving a Kshatriya by the name of Kelani Tissa, to reign at Kelaniya.

Son of Gotabhaya King Kawanthissa succeeded his father on his death at Magama. He built many edifices such as Tissa Maha Vihara and the Dighavapi Tank. Neither of them even contemplated war against Elara at Anuradhapura as they believed he was too powerful to be confronted and defeated. But King Kawanthissa built the Rohana Kingdom strongly. King Detugemunu who was the eldest son of King Kawanthissa defeated the Chola king Elara & united Sri Lanka under one government.

The Kingdom of Ruhuna became the major kingdom on the island after a South Indian invasion by Rajaraja I of the Chola kingdom.

We travelled from Colombo via Avissawella, Ratnapura Udawalawe , Debarawewa Thissamaharama and to Kataragama.

At Colambage ara we visited the tomb of Pussadeva a General of Detu Gamunu’s army.

The Tomb of Pussadeva

Pussadeva was one of the ten great warrior generals of Detugamunu’s army. It is said that Pussadeva went to his temple in his village and blew a conch shell so loudly that people were astonished. The sound was powerful as a thunderbolt and some people were terrified. Other than the skill of blowing shells, Pussadeva was a skilled archer. He could hit a target from the light of lightening. King heard of him and admitted to the service

The Tomb of Pussadeva

The Tomb of Pussadeva – Click Image to Enlarge

The Tomb of Pussadeva

The Tomb of Pussadeva

Arriving in Thissamaharama the first visit was to the Menik Vehera Dagaba on the road side.

Menik Vehera Dagaba

Menik Vehera Dagaba

Menik Vehera is not large in size. It was restored in 1894 keeping to the original shape. This stupa is also attributed to King Mahanaga. Some archeologists believe that it was constructed by King Dutugemunu.

In 1882, Governor Robert Longden had granted the land of the temple to Rev. Tangalle Sri Jinaratana, who began the restoration of the stupa and the construction of buildings for a temple. This activity would have destroyed much of the archaeological evidence..

As at Yatala, there are clusters of pillars and ruins of brick walls around Manik Viharaya. Many of the ruins are on privately owned lands. In some places, pillars have been used for construction work while in other places there used for washing of clothes and for bridges and doorsteps.

Around this temple, there are many stone pillar bases and other architectural remains of buildings. . Many of the ruins are on privately owned lands. In some places, pillars have been used for construction work while in other places there used for washing of clothes and for bridges and doorsteps.

Around this temple, there are many stone pillar bases

Around this temple, there are many stone pillar bases

Ethabendigala stone pillar inscription

Ethabendigala stone pillar inscription

Ethabendigala stone pillar inscription – Click Images to Enlarge

The Etha bendi gala inscription

The Etha bendi gala inscription

The Etha bendi gala inscription

The Etha bendi gala inscription

In the land next to the dagaoba the above stone inscription was seen protected by a roof and it is mentioned that “a village with two categories of revenue was granted to the vihara by Rohanika Gemunu Abaya son of king Gemunu abaya and grandson of King Devanampiyathissa”.

The stone pillar where Elephant Kadol was tethered

The stone pillar where Elephant Kadol was tethered

A lone stone pillar stand at the left side of the stone inscription. Legend has it that King Dutugemunu tethered his famous elephant ‘Kadol’ at this pillar. It certainly is large and strong enough to retain an elephant.

Close to Menik vihara dagoba is the Yatala Vihara dagaba

The Yatala Dagaba

The Yatala Dagaba

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Yatala Dagaba is believed to be built by regional king Mahanaga in the 3rd century BC on the grounds which his queen delivered a son. This dagaba has been identified as Mani Chethiya and Yattalaya in various historical documents. As mentioned before he was running away from Anuradhapura when his queen gave birth to the son here. It is not known what was enshrined in this dagaba but a large number of relic caskets have been discovered.

This Dagaba was completely restored and a small opening has been left to observe the different phases of construction. The restoration work of the Yatala dagaba commenced in 1883 AD. It had taken over a century to complete the restoration.

The oldest Eth Pawura (Elephant wall) in a dagaba is at Yatala Chitya

The oldest Eth Pawura (Elephant wall) in a dagaba is at Yatala Chitya

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It is not known what was enshrined in this stupa but a large number of relic caskets have been discovered in the stupa. There is an Archeology museum next to the dagaba and large number of artifacts are seen there.

Ruins surrounding the dagaba site and at the museum

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Our next stop was Sandagiri dagaba

According to the Maha Vamsa, when the Sri Maha Bodhi was brought to Sri Lanka by Theiree Sangamitta, members of the ‘Kshethiya’ clan of ‘Chandana Grama’ was present at Anuradhapura taking part of the celebrations. It is now accepted that the ‘Chandana Grama’ is the area now known as Sandagiriya in the south part of the country.

When Emperor Asoka sent various relics as gifts to the Sri Lankan king Devanampiyathissa (250-210 BC) and it is believed that they were handed over to his brother Mahanaga who was a regional king in the Ruhuna.

It is said that the king Mahanaga built Sanadagiri Stupa enshrining these relics and a rare conch shell in the 3rd century BC. This shell has been later enshrined in the Tissamaharama Dagaba. Therefore this stupa is believed to be the oldest Dagaba in the southern part of the country. Nearby inscriptions records land donations to this temple by the Kings Bathikabhaya and Vasaba. The stupa lies east to the Tissamaharama Dagaba in Tissamaharamaya.

The Sandagiri Dagaba

The Sandagiri Dagaba

The Sandagiri Dagaba

The Sandagiri Dagaba

The temple is built on 200×200 feet platform. The floor is tiled with bricks. Only about 1/2 of the stupa remains today. The circumference of the stupa is 700 feet..

It has flower altars at the four cardinal points and on the north side stone pillars are found.

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 Ancient Bo tree at Sandagiri dagaba

Ancient Bo tree at Sandagiri dagaba

Close to SandaGiri dagaba is the Sandagiri Godella Shrine Complex

Sandagirigodella lying about 1 km away from the Tissamaharama Vihara which also lies close to the ancient Sandagiri dagaba overlooking Tissamaharama Vihara.

At the entrance to the site is a stone inscription now preserved with a roofing cover.

The stone inscription at Sandagiri Godella

The stone inscription at Sandagiri Godella

The stone inscription at Sandagiri Godella

The stone inscription at Sandagiri Godella

At the entrance to this Sandagirigodella site stands a mass of ruins in stone. Some standing monolithic Stone pillars.

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There is a well preserved Korawakkagala, (balustrade) having a plain moonstone . The unique carving on one side of the balustrade is that of a figure of an elephant (in standing pose), well conspicuous to the naked eye flanked by two guard stones.

The Korawakkagala

The Korawakkagala

The elephant figure

The elephant figure

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The guard stone at the entrance

The guard stone at the entrance

The guard stone at the entrance

The guard stone at the entrance

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Since it was late evening we left for Kataragama.

Since Kataragama is a well-known and mostly visited I was not keen in taking many Photos, but thought of giving a historical background of the significance of Kataragama as a Singhalese. We worship the Kiri vehera dagaba and Kataragama god as a Sinhala provincial King who has been elevated to a god. The Bo Tree behind the devalaya was brought there as a sapling from Anuradhapura during the third century B.C. stands as a giant, witnessing the changes that had taken place through centuries.

According to Buddhist tradition God Kataragama is none other than King Mahasena who worshipped and respected the God Kihiri Vehera (Kiri Vehera) and the great Bo tree. He is one of the four gods, the guardians of Sri Lanka and a God in Buddhism. Mahavamsa projects that the Lord Buddha, on His third visit to Sri Lanka, arrived at ‘Kajaragama’and preached Dhamma to King Mahasena and his royalties at the royal park of Kihiri trees. Today the Kiri Vehera derives its name from the royal park of ‘Kihiri Trees’ that later the dagaba (Kiri Vehera). It is believed that the king became respected as a god after his death and Mahasen Devale was erected in honour of him.

According to one Hindu beliefs the birth and life of God of Kataragama is that, a youth named ‘Kandasami’ (Kanda Kumara) who came from India, had been leading an ascetic life in the mountainous jungle near Menik Ganga (the present area surrounding ‘Wedihiti Kanda’).

He is popularly known to have been married to two ladies namely ‘Thevaniamma (an Indian lady) and Valliamma (a Sri Lankan farmer lady).

The other Hindu belief is that a spy master called Kadira of King Elara. Kadira is said to have operated 6 spy rings again sub divided in to 12 groups and based him in the Kataragama area. It was these groups which later were transformed in to six heads and 12 arms of the Kataragama Deviyo. Kadira was known as the “Kadira Deviyo” who later became Kataragama Deviyo. After the defeat of Elara he became a principle benefactor and earned respect from the local Singhalese people who deityfied him after his death. But the Tamils in Kataragama never accepted him as a deity and ignored him. Those Tamils who worshipped at the shrine introduced their own god Skanda Kumar as the reigning deity of this shrine.

The statue of King Mahasena in original state

The statue of King Mahasena in original state

now a image house is built and a Devalaya  is functioning under a Kapu mahattaya

now a image house is built and a Devalaya is functioning under a Kapu mahattaya

The famous Kavadi dance by pilgrims

The famous Kavadi dance by pilgrims

travelling Kade on bicycle at kataragama

travelling Kade on bicycle at kataragama

The Kiri Vehera

The Kiri Vehera

a part of the ancient dagaba is left at the bottom of the currently repaired dagaba

a part of the ancient dagaba is left at the bottom of the currently repaired dagaba

Returning the next day we visited the Thissamaharama dagaba but do not like to elaborate as is a regular site vided by all Buddhists.

The Thissamaharama dagaba

The Thissamaharama dagaba

Returning the next day we visited the Thissamaharama dagaba but do not like to elaborate as is a regular site vided by all Buddhists.

Coming back to Thissa we visited the Debarawewa Pashchimarama Rajamaha Viharaya.

This temple is situated on the bank of Kirindi Oya, by the side of the Weerawila-deberawewa main road. Construction of this temple is attributed to King Mahanaga of the 3 rd century BC. This was an important temple, very near the capital city of Ruhuna , which went into obscurity with the change of the capital during the 12th century. It was under repairs when we went there. The pillars left at this temple are all that remains to indicate the structures, which were there for religious purposes.

 Pashchimarama Rajamaha Viharaya

Pashchimarama Rajamaha Viharaya

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A statue of the Buddha carved out of limestone was found at this temple and is kept in a temporary shelter. Statue bases, pillar bases and flower alters made of stone are found at this temple.

A statue of the Buddha carved out of limestone was found at this temple and is kept in a temporary shelter. Statue bases, pillar bases and flower alters made of stone are found at this temple.

Leaving Thissamaharama we toured the most interesting place of the Godawaya habour and the river mouth of the Walawe the point it meets the sea. The habour is near the mouth of the river.

The Godawaya harbour

Godavaya is located in Ambalamtota. Sri Lankan and German archaeologists excavate the old Kingdom of Ruhuna, gathering evidence of its glorious past.

In ancient times, Sri Lanka was heavily involved in the sea trade and exported dark red garnets. Up to the 7th century AD, these semi-precious stones were found as burial objects as far away as European graves. New research has now revealed that most of those garnets were from India and Sri Lanka. Spices were also exported from the island. The dig has uncovered Sassanian (Persian) and Chinese pottery as well as Roman coins.

Ships from the East carrying silk from China exchanged their commodities with merchandise from the West in the transit harbor of Godavaya, as trade ships from both directions usually did not go farther than Sri Lanka. Therefore, the Kingdom of Ruhuna played an important role as a trade center in early East-West trade. Godavaya was active in sea trade up until the 6th century AD. Along with trade items from Arabia and China, local articles of trade arrived via the local river.

The harbor town of Godavaya is mentioned in the Mahawamsa’s chapter on “The 12 Kings”. Even in the 6th century AD, Sri Lanka is referred to as an important sea trade centre on the Silk Route. Sri Lanka is also mentioned in The Periplus Maris Erythraei, a guide to trade on the Red Sea and India, written by an author in Alexandria, supposed around 40 AD.

The Godawaya harbour

The Godawaya harbour

the fisheries harbour currently on use

the fisheries harbour currently on use

The Walawe river mouth and where it meets the sea

The Walawe river mouth and where it meets the sea

The Walawe river mouth

The Walawe river mouth

The great River Walawe

The great River Walawe

The settlement of Godapavata Pattana, sandwiched on the peninsula between the Walawe River’s inland harbor and the sea harbor in the bay of Godavaya. A landing jetty constructed of stone pillars up to 3.50 meters high was part of the ancient harbor. While doing an underwater survey, the excavation team found one of the four ancient stone anchors discovered so far in Sri Lanka, the other three being found in Galle.

On top of the rock overlooking the entire area was the Gottapabbatha monastery, which dates back to the 2nd century AD. On the west side of the monastery an elevated ancient image house (Buddhu gedera) and a chapter house (Dharma salawa) have been excavated.

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara

Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara is situated on rocky outcrop near the mouth of the Walawe River in Godawaya which is a small fishing hamlet located between Ambalantota and Hamantota. The temple believed to have been built by Regional king Gotabaya (King Kavanthissa’s father) in the 2nd centaury BC. Godawaya is a ancient shipping port active as far as 2nd centaury BC. The temple is also believed to be have been used as the administrative centre of this port.

An inscription found in the vicinity of the temple records that a later king decreed that the taxes from the Port of Godavaya be dedicated to the temple.

The stone inscription

The stone inscription – Click Image to Enlarge

it’s covered by sand and brick to prevent destruction to elements

it’s covered by sand and brick to prevent destruction to elements

Historians have been especially interested in the Customs Building, located on the east side of the ancient monastery, which was decorated with ornaments showing an elephant placing his trunk in lotus flowers. Normally, only the King was allowed to collect taxes. In Godavaya, the tax fees were donated to the temple for its maintenance. Clay seals bearing the emblem of a lion were used to seal goods and cargo as proof that the customs duty was paid.

Several Roman coins, beads, bangles, bricks showing guild marks in the shape of an O, a huge selection of pottery and rich decorations used for roofs and houses give clear evidence of a once prosperous time. A quarry was also discovered. One large pillar covered with many drill marks dating to the middle Anuradhapura period before the 5th century AD, lies in front of the the huge rock close to the ocean. This is quite notable, as very few quarries have been documented.

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Coming Back to Ambalantota town we turned left and came to see the Theraputtabaya dagaba

Theraputthabhaya dagaba:

At the time of King Kavanthissa a man named Abhaya had a son and was called “putthabhaya” meaning son of Abhaya. Later Abhaya became a monk (monks are known as “Thera” in Pali) and his son was called “Theraputthabhaya”. Young Theraputthabhaya was strong and vigorous. His fame was heard by the King and was admitted to the service.He was a;so one pt the ten warriors of King Detugamun’s army.

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Theraputthabhaya dagaba

Theraputthabhaya dagaba

Travelling back again we passed the Walawe Bridge near Ambalantota town and came to Girihandu Viharaya

Giri Handu Viharaya

Dagaba was built by King Kawantissa in 2nd century BC inserting sacred hair given by the Lord Buddha to his first lay- followers, Thapassu and Bhalluka.same with the Girihandy seya in the eastern province too.

A ruined statue of Avalokitheshwara Buddha in 7th Century BC was discovered among the ruins. Further ruins of a Viharaya, Damma Hall and abode of monks are visible at this sacred place

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Giri Handu Viharaya

Giri Handu Viharaya

Giri Handu Viharaya

Giri Handu Viharaya

Giri Handu Viharaya

Giri Handu Viharaya

Turning at Nonagama junction to head back to Colombo we stopped at Ramba Viharaya Complex

Ramba Viharaya Complex

This ancient place is located on the bank of the Walawe Ganga, in the village of Udarata on the Nonagama-Ratnapura Road. It is about 12.8 km from Ambalantota.

Maha Nagakula was the capital of ancient Sri Lanka in the 11th century AD. The Ramba Viharaya had been the temple of the Maha Nagakula City where a large number of artifacts have been found during excavations.

The Ramba Viharaya was the Royal Temple of the day. It was also the hide-out for King Vijayabahu I who arrived there in the year 1055, while he planned his war against the Cholas for 15 years. Sri Lanka was under the Chola rule for a period of 53 year Vijayabahu had been canvassing among anti-Ramanna Desas such as Burma, Kalinga and Pandyan countries, to form an alliance against the Cholas.

He effected three attacks to surround Polonnaruwa and defeated the Cholas. His son Wickramabahu continued to reign from there while Prince Parakramabahu continued with the tradition. These reasons have prompted historians and archaeologists to carry out their research into the area. They had found a large number of monuments scattered in a land area of 200 acres of dense jungle.

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Ramba Viharaya

Ramba Viharaya

Ramba Viharaya

Ramba Viharaya

Ramba Viharaya

Ramba Viharaya

Ramba Viharaya

Ramba Viharaya

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

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A very strange Buddha image has been found excavations which had been made out of the white sand stone.

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The Ramba Vihara had become the most important religious and academic centre of Ruhuna between the 10th and 12th centuries. Scholars of the time such as Rev. Piyadassi Thera and Rev. Mahanagasena Thera had lived here and in other temples around it.

There had been an advanced civilization in the area. A large number of artifacts which had been found following research explorations conducted by scholars during the dry season had proved this fact. The venue itself is unique as there had been an ancient international harbour at Godawaya (there is evidence to support this fact).

Traders had been in the habit of travelling from China to the Arab Seas and Sri Lanka had served as an ideal venue for entrepot trading (imports are re-exported) for which customs duties were collected.

 

It is under the Ramba (banana) trees that Samanera priests had been learning their religion. Due to this reason, the Ramba Vihara had also been referred to as Kehelgamuwa. During this period in the 11th century, ships had been arriving from Ramanna Deshaya (lower Burma) at the southern parts such as Godawaya.

This area had been economically flourishing during the 15th century AD. During the Portuguese and Dutch periods, a chief priest by the name of Maha Kappinna, had lived there.

Though it had been a role model for a monastery at Maha Nagakula during the 11th and 12th centuries, now it is somewhat deserted.

Having Covered about 650 Km we retirned to Colombo via embilipitiya ratnapura awissawella road.

All information from Maha Sancharakaya TV program and internet.

Here I come up from Tissa Tank!!!! Wait for me!!!!

Here I come up from Tissa Tank!!!! Wait for me!!!!

The END

Riverston and seven waterfalls

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Year and Month October, 2012
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 3
Accommodation Personal contact (A friend’s house close to Matale town)
Transport Hijet van
Activities Waterfall hunting, Scenic driving, Photography
Weather Bright & sunny throughout, occasional showers
Route
  • Day 1: Wattala -> Kandy road to Peradeniya -> Katugastota -> Madawala -> Panwila -> Huluganga -> Alakola estate -> Huluganga -> Bambarella -> Huluganga -> Panwila -> Wattegama -> Matale
  •  Day 2: Matale -> Rattota -> Riverston -> Illukumbura -> Riverston -> Rattota -> Matale -> Kandy -> Kandy road Wattala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • The road from Matale to Rattota was under construction.
  • With regards to fuel stations please read this thread.
  • Thanks Dilhan Jayakody for your previous trip report which influenced me for this journey
Related Resources Trip Report: Knuckles Hike from Bambarella, Thawalanthenna Side
Author Shareez
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

As my 2nd journey of my 2012 vacation I decided to take a trip to Matale to visit few cascading beauties around the area. As many of our members has done it is no means a hike or some sought of. But just a road trip where we went on search few places where you could find the waterfalls around the area. So I got permission from my dad to have his Hijet “batta” as my transport and asked my best buddy to join me together with my wife for the journey.

Day 1

We left around 8.00 in the morning from Wattala, which is quite late than usual and reached Peradeniya somewhere around 10.30.

The 1st day journey was to head towards Bambarella through Panwila as there are quite a few waterfalls on the way. Just passing Panwila town we could see a large cascade flowing down gently from high up the mountains but couldn’t identify the name of the falls even after inquiring couple of locals form the area. We reached the small town Huluganga just close to 12.00 noon and stopped by the majestic Huluganga Falls, the waterfall which shot in to fame from the mid 80′s Sinhalese tele drama “Ella langa walawwa”. This is easily one of the most powerful waterfalls in our country and the energy and the force of the water is simply amazing. Until recently there haven’t been a proper viewing point but now an observation platform is under constructions close to the falls which will help everyone to have a better and closer look of this gigantic waterfall.

He managed to steel something

He managed to steel something

Probably a seasonal cascade

Probably a seasonal cascade

The bridge in Huluganga town Huluganga waterfall is just beneath this bridge

The bridge in Huluganga town Huluganga waterfall is just beneath this bridge

A Hindu god and a cow in a kovil in Huluganga town

A Hindu god and a cow in a kovil in Huluganga town

Huluganga Falls

Huluganga Falls

Powerful and gigantic force

Powerful and gigantic force

The cascading point taken from the bridge

The cascading point taken from the bridge

Then we inquired about a waterfall called Thaliya Wetuna Falls which somewhat resemble the famous St.Clare’s Falls. We had to take a small road from Huluganga town towards an estate called Alakola estate. After travelling around 2-3 kms we could see the waterfall close to the road. Interestingly within 10 minutes we were able to see Huluganga Falls which belongs to Kandy district and Thaliya Wetuna Falls which is part of Matale district. There is a clear path through the tea estates to reach closer to the base of the waterfall but it might take you an additional 1/2 an half or so. Since we were up against the time we skipped going closer and more over we were able to have a full view of the falls from the place where we were.

Alakola estate

Alakola estate

Thaliya Wetuna Falls (close up)

Thaliya Wetuna Falls (close up)

Thaliya Wetuna Falls

Thaliya Wetuna Falls

After spending few minutes enjoying the beauty of Thaliya Wetuna Falls we continued our journey towards Bambarella. Just close to the isolated Bambarella town we could see the splendid looking Jodu Falls. This twin falls also known as Depath Falls as referred by many are documented as identical in height and flows close to each other.

Close to Bambarella

Close to Bambarella

Anyone knows what's this?

Anyone knows what’s this?

Jodu Falls

Jodu Falls

The Base close up

The Base close up

As a shower is around we rushed towards Bambarella town to have a look of the Saari Falls where you have to turn left uphill before the town and continue for about 500m. The place where the Saari Falls is located is just out of this world. With the rain and large number of blood suckers we walked close to the base where you find a abandoned wooden house which may have built as the observation platform just near the waterfall.

Saari Falls

Saari Falls

The upper most level

The upper most level

The base pool

The base pool

The abandoned hut

The abandoned hut

Cannot have a better place than this to build a house

Cannot have a better place than this to build a house

Now it’s time to go to my friends house for overnight stay as we got few calls from them inquiring our whereabouts. We came back from Bambarella on the same route but from Panwila we took Wattegama as we needed to reach Matale. Since we have to pass Wattegama I was keen to visit at least one more waterfall and somehow managed to see Rahas Falls which is located just a couple of kms before Wattegama town on the main road itself. It is in two parts and the upper level is above the bridge on the main road and the lower level is below. Around 6.00 PM we reached my friends house and we got a very warm welcome from his family members.

Rahas Falls - Upper level

Rahas Falls – Upper level

Rahas Falls - Lower level

Rahas Falls – Lower level

Day 2

Our plan was to pay a visit to some of the little known waterfalls around Matale such as Kumbaloluwa Falls and Wambatuhena Falls in Laggala, Wegala Falls and the popular Hunnas Falls in Elkaduwa and few other more around. But last moment after discussing with my friends family we decided to go Riverston and Sera Falls. It was our first visit to Riverston so was really excited about it. After having a delicious breakfast we said good bye to the family members of my friend and left their place around 9.00 AM.

The journey to Riverston as most of you know is amazingly unforgettable. It took us more than three hours to reach to Sera Falls which is located about 20kms from Ilukkumura town. We stopped by many places on the way enjoying the fascinating views of Knuckles forest reserves and Riverston hills including the legendary Manigala.

Towards Riverston from my friends balcony

Towards Riverston from my friends balcony

Little hut

Little hut

Scenery

Scenery

Manigala

Manigala

Manigala

Manigala

Towards Pitawala Patana

Towards Pitawala Patana

Pitawala Patana

Pitawala Patana

Sign board of Mini worlds end

Sign board of Mini worlds end

Road to heaven

Road to heaven

End of the road??

End of the road??

The road to Sera Falls from Ilukkumbura was not in good shape but still manageable even with a small car. The water level was not as we expected specially after the rain but still it had plenty of beauty to satisfy our eyes. We didn’t miss out to go to the small cave which is behind the falls. It was indeed an unforgettable experience as you were able to see a waterfall from behind where it flows is quite amazing. There were few “Nai humbas” or snake houses on the way. As expected we came across a baby cobra on our foot steps from Sera Falls while returning back.

Way to Sera Falls

Way to Sera Falls

Rural village life along Thelgamu Oya

Rural village life along Thelgamu Oya

Sera Falls side view

Sera Falls side view

Left branch

Left branch

Sera Falls

Sera Falls

Amazing cave experience

Amazing cave experience

Viewing hut from the cave

Viewing hut from the cave

Path to Sera Falls

Path to Sera Falls

While returning from Sera Falls we stopped by Bambarakiri Falls which is located about 5kms before Rattota from Ilukkumbura. We left Matale town around 5.00 PM and reached Wattala just before 10.00 at night after 2 wonderful days of nature experience.

Paddy layers

Paddy layers

Transmission tower at top of Riverston

Transmission tower at top of Riverston

The cycling members

The cycling members

Manigala on the way back

Manigala on the way back

Bambarakiri Falls

Bambarakiri Falls

And it flows down ...

And it flows down …

The suspension bridge near Bambarakiri Falls

The suspension bridge near Bambarakiri Falls

Take a ways

Take a ways

Hanthane hills on fading light

Hanthane hills on fading light

Thank you :-)

Around Srilanka in 80 hours, a motorcycle adventure

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Year and Month February, 2012
Number of Days 3 days (in 72 hours)
Crew 2
Accommodation
  • 1st stop: City Inns Jaffna
  • 2nd stop: Inn at Pasikuda
Transport Motorbikes: Pulsar 220 & Karizma ZMR
Activities Motorcycling around Srilanka’s coast to clock 1453KM in 72 hours
Weather Mostly sunny
Route Negombo -> Chilaw -> Puttalam -> Mannar via wilpattu -> Pooneryn -> Jaffna -> Point Pedro -> Killinochchi -> Vavuniya -> Trincomalee -> Vakarai -> Batticaloe -> Kalmunai -> Arugam Bay -> Siyambalanduwa -> Monaragala -> Hambantota -> Matara -> Galle -> Colombo -> Negombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • If you head off North it is better to start off early as the Road via Wilpattu National park is only open during the day time and vehicles will not be allowed after dusk
  • Make sure you carry water food and fueled up as there are no shops or houses when you enter the Wilpattu national park
Author Gene
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It was one of the dream trip for Dhanushka and myself to Go around Srilanka on our motorcycles. We thought why not call it “Around Srilanka in 80 hours” and to circumnavigate around Srilanka in less than 80 hours.

We decided to leave on 18th February 2012, Dhanushka rode 35 km from Colombo to Negombo and we both left around 11am. The plan was to ride to Jaffna and stop over for the night.

Saturday 11am, Starting point, Negombo

Saturday 11am, Starting point, Negombo

From Puttalam we take B379 to Mannar Via Wilpattu National Park

From Puttalam we take B379 to Mannar Via Wilpattu National Park

After riding non-stop for 2.5 hours we reach Puttalam. The ride was smooth with mild traffic. We knew the next 250km ride is going to be a rough one with literally no tar roads.

Entering the wilpattu national park

Entering the wilpattu national park

After the army check point we enter the Wilpattu national park

After the army check point we enter the Wilpattu national park

We had to stop to produce our documents at the army check point. They advised us to leave the forest area before 5pm.

Partially stable bridge as we leave the army check point

Partially stable bridge as we leave the army check point

Wilpattu National park board

Wilpattu National park board

No tar… and gravel road all way long……

No tar… and gravel road all way long……

Bit of wet land and water buffalos cooling off..

Bit of wet land and water buffalos cooling off..

SLTB bus heading towards Puttalam from Mannar

SLTB bus heading towards Puttalam from Mannar

The cloud of dust was so thick we had to stop till it settled

The cloud of dust was so thick we had to stop till it settled

Few houses pop up as we reach the end of the thick Wilpattu forest

Few houses pop up as we reach the end of the thick Wilpattu forest

We had to ride parallel to keep the dust from the rear wheels getting in our way

We had to ride parallel to keep the dust from the rear wheels getting in our way

The road condition was really bad and some places we had to go at around 10km/h. As we got closer we had to tackle the sand and the bike tires sank almost an inch. After about 3 hours of riding on gravel and sand we joined the Medawachchiya – Manaar road. We sighed after seeing the tarmac and stoped by the Yoda wewa to admire the beauty.

Yoda Wewa. Water level had gone down way below but quite a sight it was

Yoda Wewa. Water level had gone down way below but quite a sight it was

Yoda wewa on the left and the famous rice bowl of Srilanka on the right

Yoda wewa on the left and the famous rice bowl of Srilanka on the right

We decided to ride 3.5km to manaar take a picture and ride towards Jaffna

We decided to ride 3.5km to manaar take a picture and ride towards Jaffna

So we officially made it to Manaar. We were running out of time and it was around 3pm we had about 102.5km to Jaffna

So we officially made it to Manaar. We were running out of time and it was around 3pm we had about 102.5km to Jaffna

Enroute to Jaffna Via Pooneryn (A32 road)

Enroute to Jaffna Via Pooneryn (A32 road)

At the army check point we were told that the concrete road ends after 10km and till Jaffna the road is still under construction. We wacked the concrete section under 10 minutes and came to another check point after which the road was in bad condition.

Gravel road again…

Gravel road again…

My license plate came off from the mount after that extremely bumpy ride

My license plate came off from the mount after that extremely bumpy ride

Dhanu on top of Sagupitty bridge

Dhanu on top of Sagupitty bridge

We made it to Jaffna around 8pm

We made it to Jaffna around 8pm

The Sagupitty bridge was constructed recently and the we missed the view of the causeway connecting Pooneryn to Jaffna peninsula. The causeway is about 4km and this area should be travelled during the day time to witness the beauty.

After making it to Jaffna we checked at “Jaffna Inns” and the room is clean and the price was also reasonable. We were so tired after the long day and worst part of the journey was the dust. Sneeze and cough settled in and we were slightly worried about our health condition during the rest of the journey.

Day 2

We woke up around 4am and checked out from the inn. After a quick breakfast in the town we set course to Point Pedro, the northern end of Srilanka

An Old Austin parked near the Jaffna Bus stand

An Old Austin parked near the Jaffna Bus stand

Dhanu on Karizma ZMR, day 2, another long ride ahead

Dhanu on Karizma ZMR, day 2, another long ride ahead

Our bikes in front of Jaffna library

Our bikes in front of Jaffna library

After about 30km ride on smooth carpet road we reached the northern tip of Srilanka

After about 30km ride on smooth carpet road we reached the northern tip of Srilanka

This is it northern end of Srilanka, we did it

This is it northern end of Srilanka, we did it :-)

The road from Jaffna town to Point Petro was a silky smooth road with mild traffic and we managed to cover the stretch in 20 minutes

Iconic lighthouse in the northern tip

Iconic lighthouse in the northern tip

Then we ride south via A9 road

Then we ride south via A9 road

We planned to take the Mullative road from Paranthan and head south. When we reached the Paranthan junction cops told us that the roads were under construction and the 40km road takes about 3 hours to cover. Dust from the construction vehicles was so dense and we recalled our previous day on Pooneryn road. We both agreed to drop that route and head towards Vavuniya via A9 road and then head east via Horopothana. The roads were back to tarmac and we were doing decent 70kmph.

En-route to Trincomalee, thick coat of dust on both bikes after our little off-roading

En-route to Trincomalee, thick coat of dust on both bikes after our little off-roading

By after noon we were in Trincomalee

By after noon we were in Trincomalee

After reaching Trincomalee we headed further down and decided to stop over at Pasikuda. Bikes were in tip top condition and I had to oil my bike chains as we had already clocked 500km from start. Dhanu’s Karizma had chain cover and had coped well against the dust and sand

Open road, no cops… could you ask for more

Open road, no cops… could you ask for more

Rented a cabana in Pasikuda

Rented a cabana in Pasikuda

By 4pm we reached Pasikuda and rented a cabana for the night. The beach was walking distance and we called it a day. Till now we had clocked 805km and the next day was the last stage of our journey where we would reach the eastern and southern most point, Sangamankandy and Dondra head respectively.

Day 3

Alarm goes off at 3am and we wake up for the 3rd stage of our adventure. None of the shops were open at that time for even a coffee so without wasting time we set course to Batticaloa. Pasikuda to Batticaloa was only 30km and the smooth tarmac didn’t fail us to hit red line on our machines. We kept around 90kmph and we were the only traffic for next 30km.

Ride was only 20 minutes and we stopped when we saw a coffee shop. The tea served with milk hoppers was heavenly and the energy was back. From Batticaloa we cruised at the normal speed to avoid any incidents and cops.

400km to go home, A4 road longest road in Srilanka

400km to go home, A4 road longest road in Srilanka

Day breaks, Sangamankandy

Day breaks, Sangamankandy

Eastern most point in Srilanka, Sangamankandy

Eastern most point in Srilanka, Sangamankandy

Pottuvil…

Pottuvil…

Through the paddy fields

Through the paddy fields

Pottuvil is one of the beautiful places with the green paddy fields. The view is absolutely stunning.

Acres of paddy fields and the tarmac across it. Pottuvil

Acres of paddy fields and the tarmac across it. Pottuvil

Lahugala, Enroute to Siyambalanduwa

Lahugala, Enroute to Siyambalanduwa

Inside Lunugamwehera national park

Inside Lunugamwehera national park

Hello Big guy….running into a wild elephant

Hello Big guy….running into a wild elephant

While riding through Lunugamwehera we looked out for wild animals and birds, we didn’t expect the surprise just before exiting the forest. We saw an elephant wandering on the road and from the first look he was very calm and seems to be not bothered by the traffic on the road.

Friendly wild elephant. Close to Sella Kataragama

Friendly wild elephant. Close to Sella Kataragama

Passers by fed the elephant with bread, fruits and biscuits and the elephant seemed quite content.

Tissa wewa, Tissamaharama

Tissa wewa, Tissamaharama

We made it to Hambantota around 2pm

We made it to Hambantota around 2pm

Dondra head, Southern most point in Srilanka, Matara

Dondra head, Southern most point in Srilanka, Matara

Scorching sun was at its peak when we crossed Tissamaharama. We passed Hambantota and Rode non-stop till Dondra head, Matara.

Most iconic Dondra head light house. Matara

Most iconic Dondra head light house. Matara

This is it, Southern end of Srilanka

This is it, Southern end of Srilanka

Heavy shower near Hikkaduwa

Heavy shower near Hikkaduwa

As soon as we passed Galle the sky became dark and started to rain near Hikkaduwa. We were glad it was the last stage and we had covered 90% of our journey. We were so exhausted after two days of riding and wanted to go home as soon as possible.

Weather improved after Aluthgama and traffic became the next concern. It was Monday evening and as we approached Colombo during the peak hours the traffic was the next unbearable thing.

By night we made it to Colombo and After bidding Good bye to Dhanu as Ratmalana I rode the next 40km to Negombo

We clocked 1453km in 72 hours right around Srilanka

We clocked 1453km in 72 hours right around Srilanka

 


Waterfalls of Colombo District – Pathetic side of the story

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Year and Month January, 2013
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew Five (Myself, wife, two sons and daughter)
Accommodation Serenity Eco lodgeserenityecolodge.com
Transport Car
Activities A family trip
Weather Excellent, bright sun on both days
Route Gampaha -> Dompe -> Hanwella -> Puwakpitiya -> Thummodara -> Labugama -> Padukka -> Bope -> Meepe -> Hanewella -> Dompe -> Gampaha
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Need to get permission from Water Board to visit Labugama and Kalatuwawa reservoirs.
Author Wije
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It was Ashan’s this report that prompted me to do this trip.

One of my intention of writing this report is to show you the heart breaking current states of the these precious waterfalls. There is nothing attractive in these pictures but you can compare the state of these waterfalls two years ago, with Ashan’s report and the pathetic state of same, today.

We came to Puwakpitiya along Colombo/Avissawella road and turned right towards Thummodara. First stop was Kumari Ella. It’s about 500 meters from main road and it is not possible in a car. We walked the distance and were disappointed with the very first sighting. Some illicit timber sellers has cut down a tree and ran away leaving their portable saw machine.

Left the saw and ran away

Left the saw and ran away

The cry of upper part of Kumari Ella

The cry of upper part of Kumari Ella

Base pool of Kumari Ella

Base pool of Kumari Ella

Lower part of Kumari Ella

Lower part of Kumari Ella

Then we proceeded about another five kilo meters along the same route towards Thummodara to the next water fall, Ella uda Ella and it was another sad story.

Upper part of Ella Uda Ella mostly the rock and less water

Upper part of Ella Uda Ella mostly the rock and less water

Lower part and the base pool

Lower part and the base pool

From there we proceeded another three Kilometers and turned to ‘Halpe Group’. This is a rubber estate and you can drive up to the water fall, Ran Mudu Ella

Dried off Ran Mudu Ella, just a string of wate

Dried off Ran Mudu Ella, just a string of wate

Driving another two KM we came to Thummodara Junction and turned left towards Labugama and first to meet was the Thummodara bridge. A hefty looking bridge was just enough you to get through.

 

Slowly creeping through

Slowly creeping through

From there we went in search of Dambora Ella. It’s on the road to Ayr estate

Poorly looking Dambora Ella

Poorly looking Dambora Ella

I was not sure whether it was the real Dambora Ella although the locals directed me to this place.

After a disappointed half day tour we proceeded to Kalatuwawa and Labugama reservoirs, just 5 KM away from Thummodara.

These two reservoirs are located in a picturesque hilly wet zone rainforest. This virgin forest is many thousand years old and some parts of it almost completely untouched by humans and with an annual rainfall of about 4000 mm, it brings the uncorrupted clean water to the reservoirs.

Colombo District is supplied with safe drinking water by three reservoirs namely Ambathaley, Kalatuwawa and Labugama. Labugama, Today boasts an output of 10 million gallons per day while Kalatuwawa which is situated three KM away has a bigger output of 20 million gallons per day. These purification plants are doing a tremendous work to provide safe drinking water.

Safe water for drinking means that it

  • Does not contain any disease causing organisms
  • Does not contain chemicals hazardous to human health
  • Water is clear, colorless, tasteless and odorless
  • It does not stain or get precipitated.

Kalatuwawa and Labugama plants receive water under gravity and there are five steps of water purification.

  1.  ’Aeration process’ – air (oxygen) is introduced into water and the taste, colour and odour causing substances and gases are removed.
  2. Second step is addition of chemicals, when chemicals are added to water it reacts with soil, clay particles, microorganisms and other substances. These particles associate with similar particles to form big flocks and when it is heavy sink to the bottom with resulting clear water at the top.
  3.  Third step is known as ‘Sedimentation process’ – clear water that is found at the surface of the tank is separated from the sediments and sent into the sand filters through a network of channels.
  4. Fourth step is ‘Filtration’ – water is filtered through the rapid gravity sand filters.
  5. Final step is ‘Disinfection’ – where they use chlorine gas to disinfect water, but they add another chemical to water, which is lime that prevents corrosion of the distribution lines.

Entrance to Kalatuwawa reservoir

Entrance to Kalatuwawa reservoir

Kalatuwawa reservoir - surrounded with virgin forest

Kalatuwawa reservoir – surrounded with virgin forest

Spillway of Kalatuwawa

Spillway of Kalatuwawa

Water purification plant at Kalatuwawa

Water purification plant at Kalatuwawa

From Kalatuwawa we came to Labugama reservoir which is only 3 KM away.

The foot step to the Labugama dam starts with an ancient moonstone although it has no historical back ground. Nobody knows how it came there. This Moonstone is believed to be the only Moonstone at a non-religious place

Moonstone at the beginning of footsteps

Moonstone at the beginning of footsteps

Labugama reservoir

Labugama reservoir

Sediments - separated from clear water

Sediments – separated from clear water

Rapid gravity sand filters

Rapid gravity sand filters

Quote

“Though three fourth of the world is covered with water, less than 1% is available for human use. Even this water is polluted by the activities of man and animals. Therefore in future, to obtain safe drinking water a large sum of money will be needed. If you protect your water resources and use only what is required there would be enough water to all even for future generations. Remember, we enjoy today the water resources protected & conserved by our Great, great grandfathers. “

After a full day tour with ‘Water’ we came to Serenity Leisure Village for the night stay. This place is comparatively very cheap and the place is very well maintained.

Entrance to Serenity Village

Entrance to Serenity Village

We stayed in a family room which can accommodate five easily. It’s a two story non A/C room with attached bathroom, H/C water, fans, TV and telephone. There are two swimming pools and ample places for outdoor games.

Ground floor of the room

Ground floor of the room

Upper floor

Upper floor

Next day on our way back we dropped at another place which is unknown to most of us. This is Ayr Bungalow situated in Ayr estate. Locals call this ‘Gal Bangalawa’ (ගල් බන්ගලාව). This place is also known as the “Tajmahal of Sri Lanka.” This is about 8 KM from Thummodara towards Padukka.

Thummodara/Padukka road well paved and surrounded with lush greenery

Thummodara/Padukka road well paved and surrounded with lush greenery

The story of Ayr bungalow is romantic. Arley Elford, a planter who was the superintendent of this rubber estate had married a Scottish girl from a wealthy family. When they came to the bungalow in Ayr estate, his bride was disappointed with his humble dwelling. She had told him to build a castle for her and returned back to her native Scotland. It then became Elford’s dream to build a house worthy of her and so began the construction of this bungalow in 1922.

He built this bungalow, which is a majestic replica of a Scottish castle, on a mountain top. It was carved out of granite bricks with double layer walls and two walls were filled in-between with sand to keep the house cool. He has taken nine years to finish this house and by that time his wife tired of waiting had gone off with another. He was using estate labours to built this house and his employers in England came to know about this colossal waste of time, money and labor and terminated his job. Ultimately, Elford lost his job, this lovely bungalow and also his loving wife. Heartbroken Arley Elford left Ceylon for United Kingdom, leaving his legacy of love.

Taj Mahal of Sril lanka (Ayr Bungalow) ගල් බන්ගලාව

Taj Mahal of Sril lanka (Ayr Bungalow) ගල් බන්ගලාව

Solid blocks of granite bricks

Solid blocks of granite bricks

This spacious, airy bungalow has now been acquired and restored by Pussellawa Plantation Ltd to a fair extent (with a swimming pool) and is now open to visitors looking for a plantation holiday of quiet walks and solitude. There are four large rooms with attached bathrooms with H/C water and equipped with air-conditioning. Each room has its own sprawling balcony affording views of the surrounding countryside.

View from the upper floor. Note the swimming pool

View from the upper floor. Note the swimming pool

The bedrooms are large and airy. You can bring your provisions and get them to cook.

If you wish you can also get meals from them and it will cost around 400/= for a meal.

This place is good for an office day out also.

Reservation:

Tel :011 7990000 / Ext 127

Mobile : 0777 774738

Pussellawa Plantations Ltd

No.168, Negombo Road,

Peliyagoda,

Charges:

Rs.22,500/- per night, entire bungalow. Maximum of 16 pax. – Accommodation only

A trip to Ampara and Monaragala

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Year and Month March, 2013 (28th to 30th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 8 (between 20-65 years of age)
Accommodation
  • Day 1: night at a friend’s place at Ampara
  • Day 2: night at Government Circuit Bungalow at Monaragala
Transport Van
Activities Visiting historic places
Weather Sunny, very hot
Route
  • Colombo -> Kandy -> Mahiyanganaya -> Dambana -> Meegaswatta -> Maha Oya -> Arantalawa -> Uhana -> Ampara
  • Ampara -> Siyambalanduwa -> Monaragala
  • Monragala -> Buttala -> Wellawaya -> Tanamalwila -> Ratnapura -> Colombo
Related Resources
Author Anjale
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Day 1
We started the journey on 28th early morning at around 3.00 am. We reached Mahiyanganaya at around 11.00 am. Next, we visited was Maha Oya hot water springs where we had a bath.

Mahiyangana Stupa

Mahiyangana Stupa

Senanayake Samudra

Senanayake Samudra

We reached Ampara around 1.00 pm. We had to pick our two friends from Dayata Kirula exhibition stall. Therefore, we spent 1 or 2 hours visiting the exhibition. Next, 8 of us went to the friend’s place where we were spending the night. It was extremely very difficult to book a hotel or a government circuit bungalow as it was the Dayata Kirula exhibition period.

While on the way to the friend’s house, we stopped for a while near Senanayake Samudra. It was around 5.00 pm when we reached the house. Since, everyone was tired due to long journey and the hot weather, we decided to have a rest even though we had ample time to travel more.

Day 2

We started our journey for the day around 6.00 am and we prepared and took the breakfast with us. The first place we were planning to visit was Deegawapee stupa.

We reached there around 7.00 am.

There were interesting paintings in the shrine rooms which describes the history of the Deedawapee Stupa.

Deedawapee Stupa

Deedawapee Stupa

Shrine room

Shrine room

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

A picture which describes how a monk fallen from the stupa while the stupa is being constructed, was saved due to the power of Dhajagga Soothra

A picture which describes how a monk fallen from the stupa while the stupa is being constructed, was saved due to the power of Dhajagga Soothra – Click Image to Enlarge

On our way to Deegawapeeya, we saw crocodiles having sun bath on a tiny island on a small lake. As we stopped our vehicle to get some photographs of them, they slowly slipped away into the water.

Next, we visited Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa. You have to travel in the same road towards Ampara a small distance and turn to another road to reach this place. This stupa is located on a small rock.

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

View from the summit of the rock

View from the summit of the rock

View from the summit of the rock

View from the summit of the rock

3 different stages of Sugar cane cultivation

3 different stages of Sugar cane cultivation

After having our breakfast, we set off to Buduruwagala. Again, it was a temple on a small rock. Since, these days the climate was very sunny and very hot, it’s difficult to walk with bare feet even it was just around 9.00 am. So, we felt that if we could reached there little earlier, it would have being better.

Buduruwagala rock

Buduruwagala rock

Tortise in the pond

Tortise in the pond

Eagle trying to attack fish in the little pond on the rock

Eagle trying to attack fish in the little pond on the rock

Skeleton of a tusker

Skeleton of a tusker

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

After that, we set off to Monaragala.

It was around 2.00 pm when reached Monaragala. Lunch was ready at the circuit bungalow and we were so tired as the weather is very, very hot. We gobbled the food in no time.

After having a small break, at around 4.00 pm we decided to visit Maligawila and Dematamal Viharaya.

First we visited Maligawila. There are two important places at Maligawila, Lord Budda Statue and Statue of Avalokeswara Boddhi Sathva.

Maligavila bear archaeological sites

Maligavila bear archaeological sites – Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Lord Budda Statue

Lord Budda Statue

Statue of Avalokeswara Boddhi Sathva

Statue of Avalokeswara Boddhi Sathva

Dambegoda Pillar Inscrption

Dambegoda Pillar Inscrption

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Next, we visited Dematamal Viharaya. The name Dematamal Viharaya derives from ‘Dutu Mal Viharaya’. The legend says, after a small battle with King Dutugamunu, his youger brother Prince Tissa has seek protection from Sanga by arriving this temple. The chief Sanga, has asked the prince to hide under the bed.

Dematamal Viharaya

Dematamal Viharaya

King Dutugamunu has suspected that his brother is in temple and has come to meet Sanga. When he inquired the monk about his brother, the monk has replied, Tissa Adehi Natha- Tissa is not on the bed.

The king has understood that this means, even though brother is not on bed, he might be under the bed. While worshipping the monk, he has bend, looked at under the bed and verified that he is there.

The king then ordered his men to guard outside the temple premises. The chief monk understanding that, Tissa won’t be ever able to leave temple premises in this condition, requested four monks to carry Tissa, pretending to carry an expired body of a monk.

King understanding it is Tissa, not a dead body of a monk, said ‘Tissa, Sangun Pita Noyaw”. Anyway, later the dispute between the two brothers was resolved by the guidance from Sanga.

Day 3

The last day of the trip, we left the circuit sharp at 6.00 am. First place we wanted to visit was Yudaganawa.

Yuduganawa Stupa

Yuduganawa Stupa

Chulangani Stupa

Chulangani Stupa

Yudaganawa is another place related with King Dutugamunu.

It is said that, Prince Gamunu went to hide in Digamadulla after a dispute with his father, King Kavanthissa. The dispute was the old king’s reluctance to fight with King Elara. After several years, King Kavanthissa expired and Prince Tissa came to throne.

Prince Gamunu received this news and requested his brother to give him the tusker Kandula and Mother Queen which are essential to be the inheritance of the throne. Since, Prince Tissa rejected the request; Prince Gamunu has no other option but to fight with his brother.

In earlier battles Tissa won against Gamunu as he was powerful due to his large royal army. Therefore, Gamunu had to be tricky to win the fight. In a battle at Yudaganawa, Prince Gamunu on his horse-back jumped across Tusker Kandula. The tusker feeling ashamed of the person who is handling him, threw Tissa down. Thus, Prince Gamunu came to throne.

It is also said that King Dutugamunu started the war against Elara from this place.

Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala

A hole in the rock with a shape of a flame

A hole in the rock with a shape of a flame

Ruins in Buduruwagala area

Ruins in Buduruwagala area

After that, we set off to Buduruwagala. The way to budurugawala was very beautiful. The path set across a beautiful village, along paddy fields and next a small jungle with lakes blossomed with red lilies.

It’s a really beautiful sight and we as travelers need to keep in mind not to harm its beauty.

Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

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Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

On the way, we saw Udawalawe tank and I could capture few photos.

We reached Ratnapura at around 12.00 pm. We decided to have lunch near Saman Deewalaya.

 

Udawalawe Tank and we can see a waterfall in a very far mountain range

Udawalawe Tank and we can see a waterfall in a very far mountain range

Saman Dewalaya

Saman Dewalaya

Sankapala Vihalaya

Sankapala Vihalaya

On the way someone suggested us to visit another temple, Sankapala Vihalaya where one of King Dutugamunu’s giant men was later meditated as a monk.

A ape family - son, mum and dad @ the temple

A ape family – son, mum and dad @ the temple

We reached Colombo around 3.00 pm. I forget to mention, on 28th night, one of crew who was at Ampara, had seen this moon ring (220 moon halo) which is called ‘Chadra Mandala’ in Sinhala. This a very rare occasion as I know, since full moon and humidity of atmosphere is required for this phenomenon to occur

moon ring – ‘chandra Mandalaya’

moon ring – ‘chandra Mandalaya’

Nature “Drive Thru” via Hambegamuwa, Welioya, Bogawantalawa and Maskeliya

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Year and Month February, 2013 (9th to 11th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 2 (Me & my wife, aged 30-32)
Accommodation BOC Upper Glencairn Bungalow
Transport Toyota Vitz
Activities Scenic drive, site seeing and Photography
Weather Sunny with occasional drizzling
Route Tissamaharama -> Pannegamuwa -> Thanamalwila -> 17½ kanuwa junction -> Balaharuwa -> Hambegamuwa -> Welioya -> Kaltota -> Rajawaka -> Balangoda -> Pinnawala -> Bogawantalawa -> Dickoya -> Maskeliya -> Delhouse -> Dickoya -> Hatton -> Colombo -> Matara
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Stretches between 17½ Kanuwa junction to Kaltota and Balangoda to Bogawantalawa are narrow, rough and bumpy.
  • Between 17½ Kanuwa junction and Balaharuwa junction there is an Elephant corridor called Galkatukanda. So, avoid evening and night driving.
  • Stretch from Balangoda to Maratenna is not safe to drive during night. It is prudent to refrain from driving through whole Balangoda – Bogawantalawa stretch during night.
  • Please do not litter. Dispose waste properly. Help to keep the sites clean.
Related Resource

 

Author Hasitha KM
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

There are plenty of scenic roads around Sri Lanka offering breathtaking views intersecting different landscapes. This was such a “photo journey” along three scenic roads offering unique views where Hambegamuwa – Welioya – Kaltota through Paddy centered low country dry/intermediate zone, Balangoda – Bogawantalawa – Norwood through Tea centered mid/up country, Dickoya – Delhouse through Tea centered up country reservoir banks. Diversions on the way to see some cascading beauties were icing on the cake.

We started around 5.30 am from Tissamaharama and moved towards Tanamalwila. From there we took the left turn to Uda Walawe road. Travelling few kms along this road there is a sign board for the turn off at Bodagama indicating it is 40 km to Welioya. We avoided this turn off as it was early in the morning and driving through this isolated road through the jungle is an unnecessary risk. Hence we proceeded further up to 17½ kanuwa junction and then took the right turn towards Hambegamuwa/Welioya. This road connects to the road coming from the previous turn off after few kms.

This road is running through a famous Elephant corridor named Galkatukanda located between 17½ kanuwa junction and Balaharuwa junction. This stretch is through the jungle and possibility of meeting an Elephant is very high. So in this area, jungle is cleared up to 15-20m either side of the road.

Since it was early morning there were no vehicles coming from that area to inquire about Elephants but we slowly kept on moving forward. Fortunately a small bus came towards us. As the driver confirmed that there are no Elephants, we hurried up and very watchfully crossed Galkatukanda.

We reached the first landmark of the day, Balaharuwa junction. Road coming from Kuda oya (A2) is connecting Hambegamuwa/Welioya road here. Road we came so far was narrow, bumpy and badly washed away at many places. We had to travel very slow and drive carefully to prevent rocks and ridges hitting underneath.

Balaharuwa junction

Balaharuwa junction

After having a look around and having a chat with the shop owner there, we started moving towards Hambegamuwa. Road condition improved a little but was still a testing time.

Reaching Hambegamuwa. Point of satisfaction after an extreme drive. But this is about Police area. Town may be miles away

Reaching Hambegamuwa. Point of satisfaction after an extreme drive. But this is about Police area. Town may be miles away

Hambegamuwa

Hambegamuwa

Hambegamuwa school. Happy to see these rural people have been gifted with modern infrastructure

Hambegamuwa school. Happy to see these rural people have been gifted with modern infrastructure

Hambegamuwa town

Hambegamuwa town

Another morning to Hambegamuwa. Town has not come live yet

Another morning to Hambegamuwa. Town has not come live yet

At Hambegamuwa we did not forget to witness the morning beauty of Hambegamuwa wewa. At Hambegamuwa town there is a narrow concrete road towards right which is leading to Hambegamuwa wewa. It is just a walk of around 500m. It was indeed a lovely sight.

Concrete road leading to Hambegamuwa wewa

Concrete road leading to Hambegamuwa wewa

It was early morning

It was early morning

Green touched water

Green touched water

Jungle on water

Jungle on water

Mirror

Mirror

After enjoying the scenery there, we started moving forward in search of a relaxing place to have our breakfast. After a few minutes’ drive we found a nice shade close to a water body.

The bonnet breakfast

The bonnet breakfast

Then we started moving towards Welioya where we witnessed most eye catching “on the way” scenery. There were several water bodies full of Olu mal. Endless lush green paddy fields with mountains at the back drop were a wonderful sight which cannot be expressed by words and pictures

Green all round

Green all round

What a scenery…

What a scenery…

Hut under shade

Hut under shade

Endless…

Endless…

Up to the mountain range…

Up to the mountain range…

Wow

Wow

Olu pipeela wila leladenawa…

Olu pipeela wila leladenawa…

Beautiful…

Beautiful…

Another milestone

Another milestone

Welioya town

Welioya town

It was a drive through relaxing greenish landscapes blended with irrigation channels, water bodies, structures like Sapattu palam, etc. all the way up to Kaltota.

Conveying life

Conveying life

Sapattu palam are the means to cross many waterways

Sapattu palam are the means to cross many waterways

What a ride

What a ride

Huge trees by the road. Villager said this is “Panu Muguna”

Huge trees by the road. Villager said this is “Panu Muguna”

Famous Kaltota Sapattu palama

Famous Kaltota Sapattu palama

Welcome

Welcome

From Kaltota we took Balangoda road and after 2 km we took the right turn to see Kaltota Duwili falls. It is a 3.3 Km travel along a paved road but there were 4-5 damaged segments where it was difficult for the car to tackle.

Road which motorbike comes is Balangoda road. Other one is towards Budugala ruins.

Road which motorbike comes is Balangoda road. Other one is towards Budugala ruins.

Road to Kaltota Duwili falls

Road to Kaltota Duwili falls

Road closed. She is there to issue tickets and open the way.

Road closed. She is there to issue tickets and open the way.

Unmatched Duwili falls of Kaltota

Unmatched Duwili falls of Kaltota

Coloured by the rainbow

Coloured by the rainbow

Front view. But I like the unique side view most.

Front view. But I like the unique side view most.

Duwili duwili doowiliii…

Duwili duwili doowiliii…

Full flow

Full flow

Leak of Samanalawewa reservoir is a blessing

Leak of Samanalawewa reservoir is a blessing

View from Kaltota – Balangoda road

View from Kaltota – Balangoda road

If I was a bird…

If I was a bird…

Then we rushed to Balangoda and had lunch there. We started from 17½ kanuwa junction at 6.00 am and managed to reach Balangoda by 1.45 pm with plenty of stops to enjoy the endless scenery and slow driving along rough bumpy road. It has 39km from 17½ kanuwa junction to Kaltota and 28 km from Kltota to Balangoda.

After lunch we were ready for the second scenic drive of the day which was Balangoda-Bogawantalawa-Norwood and it was 2.30 pm when we turned on to Balangoda-Bogawantalawa road. Journey started without much scenery at the initial segment but scenic Dethanagala was moving around us changing the view creating a magnificent sight.

Interchange of the “drive thru”, Balangoda

Interchange of the “drive thru”, Balangoda

Directions

Directions

Dethanagala kissed by mist

Dethanagala kissed by mist

Turning around

Turning around

Green all round

Green all round

After passing the village Pinnawala, Dethanagala started unveiling the cascading beauty from her shaulder, Gerandi ella. A drizzle started blocking the view but we stayed until it settled to get some sort of a clear view.

Gerandi ella

Gerandi ella

Maximum my lens could reach

Maximum my lens could reach

After Pinnawala, it was the endless view of lush green Tea plantations. The road was narrow, rough and bumpy. But not much pot holes or heavily damaged areas. Only thing is, as we were travelling in a car with low ground clearance, very rarely we could speed up beyond 25km/h and had to reverse even for in coming three wheelers.

It was a fantastic ride all the way through the Tea plantations offering magical views.

Here onwards it is all about tea

Here onwards it is all about tea

Dethanagala in another pose

Dethanagala in another pose

Crates to transport tea!! Happy to see they are adopting best practice to meet quality standards.

Crates to transport tea!! Happy to see they are adopting best practice to meet quality standards.

Busy day

Busy day

Dressed in blues

Dressed in blues

Art

Art

It is Tea…

It is Tea…

Into a forest patch again

Into a forest patch again

Colourful

Colourful

Submerged in mist

Submerged in mist

Roadside decorated by many of these

Roadside decorated by many of these

Through pines

Through pines

Unusual blend of colours. Someone has set fire!

Unusual blend of colours. Someone has set fire!

Artistic but not natural

Artistic but not natural

Vantage point by the road

Vantage point by the road

The view

The view

Crossing the boundary

Crossing the boundary – Click Image to Enlarge

What a place to live

What a place to live

Vegetables under the patronage of scarecrow

Vegetables under the patronage of scarecrow

And it winds…

And it winds…

How to make up mind to leave here

How to make up mind to leave here

Scenery

Scenery

Endless…

Endless…

Fresh Tea shoots

Fresh Tea shoots

Further decorations

Further decorations

Reaching the final landmark

Reaching the final landmark

It was 6.30 pm when we reached Bogawantalawa and around 7.30 we managed to end the day at Upper Glencairn bungalow, Dickoya.

On the next morning it was the beginning of another scenic drive from Dickoya to Delhouse through Tea plantations along the banks of Castlereah and Maussakele reservoirs. It was 8.00 am when we stared from Dickoya and was around 9.00 am when we reached Delhouse.

On the way by Maussakelle reservoir

On the way by Maussakelle reservoir

Maussakelle dam

Maussakelle dam

Sacred mountain on the rise

Sacred mountain on the rise

From Delhouse police check point (About 500m before Delhouse, along Maskeliya – Delhouse road) there is a turn off towards left, to Moray estate. This is the turn off towards Fishing Huts and plenty of direction boards available. Only thing is this road is running downwards and from the main road you do not see it properly. We took this road to see the two famous cascading beauties, Adams peak falls and Moray falls.

It was a typical estate road and it was in very bad shape for a car. Anyhow, my “4 wheel drive” tackled the road and took us up to the turn off to Moray Tea factory. It took 45 minutes to travel that 3 km. After parking the car there, we started walking up to the factory which was 900m away as I did not want to get the car damaged. A car with good ground clearance would have made it up to the factory. Turn off to Fishing huts is located on the way and from there onwards only 4WD is allowed.

The road “condition”

The road “condition”

Place where I parked the car. Further up straight will take you to Tea factory.

Place where I parked the car. Further up straight will take you to Tea factory.

The hut at the junction

The hut at the junction

Road from junction to Tea factory

Road from junction to Tea factory

On the way. Right turn and 7 more km will take you to Fishing Huts. Keep moving straight to reach the factory.

On the way. Right turn and 7 more km will take you to Fishing Huts. Keep moving straight to reach the factory.

This is the Fishing hut road. Only 4WD allowed beyond this point.

This is the Fishing hut road. Only 4WD allowed beyond this point.

The common estate cruiser

The common estate cruiser

From the factory, there are two concrete roads starting and the one leading downwards should be taken (Downwards at the start but ascending as it continues). Walking along this, there is a sharp bend towards right where a path closed by a gate could be seen towards left at the bend. We have to walk through the gate and a guard took down our names and vehicle number. After a short walk, the beautiful Adams peak falls could be observed. It was indeed a lovely sight.

Moray Tea factory

Moray Tea factory

The sharp bend of the concrete road. Have to take the path which this lady is going, and should enter through the gate to see the waterfalls.

The sharp bend of the concrete road. Have to take the path which this lady is going, and should enter through the gate to see the waterfalls.

Beautiful Adams peak falls

Beautiful Adams peak falls

Breathtaking

Breathtaking

Directly falls to Maussakelle reservoir

Directly falls to Maussakelle reservoir

To reach Moray falls there we have to walk further along the path. A small nameless waterfall too could be seen on the way. The path becomes narrow towards the end. End of this path opens door to this beauty.

The path

The path

Reduced to this shortly

Reduced to this shortly

Nameless waterfall met on the way

Nameless waterfall met on the way

The grand Moray falls. This too directly falls to Maussakelle reservoir.

The grand Moray falls. This too directly falls to Maussakelle reservoir.

Middle segment

Middle segment

Although hours passed by, we could not change our mindset to leave these magnificent creations of the nature. At the end, we turned back with the intention of spending some good time by the road side beauty, Mohini falls.

Mohini falls

Mohini falls

Diversion

Diversion

Plunging down

Plunging down

It was evening when we reached the bungalow at Dickoya and we have not even had our lunch. But the minds were full of happy memories all along.

Random visit at places in ancient Seethawaka kingdom

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Year and Month April, 2013 (8th to 26th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 02/03
Accommodation N/A
Transport Bus, Three-wheeler and by foot
Activities Archeology, waterfalls and Photography
Weather Morning weather was excellent, At the end of the days had thundershowers
Route
  • Day 1: Colombo -> Warakapola -> Madeniya -> Dorawaka cave -> Pethangoda -> Wangedi Molgas Ella -> Back to Galapitamada -> Manikkadawara -> Thunthota -> Holombuwa -> Dadigama -> Nelundeniya -> Colombo
  • Day 2: Colombo -> Awissawella -> Thalduwa -> Ruwanwalla -> Hakurugala -> Karawanalla -> Liyangahamula -> Manella waterfall -> Return in the same route to Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Better start the journey in the early morning to visit all these places. The archaeology museum of Dadigam will be closed at 4pm. Therefore you have to be there at least 1hour before.
  • Always introduce yourself to the priests of the ancient temples and explain your purpose of visiting. Otherwise they may misunderstand.
  • Always clarify your way from locals.
  • Better negotiate three wheel charges before get into the three-wheeler.
  • Public transport system is not much good in these roads. Therefore better to have your own vehicle. If you have your own vehicle, can be covered all these places in one and half day.
  • Thanks a lot for Ravinu and his friends who came with me to Manella fall.
Related Resources
  1. Siri Laka Asi Dutu Than by S.P.S.Weerasingha
  2. Sunadara Sabaragamuwa by Tourist ministry of Sabaragamuwa
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

During this journey I needed to visit at places in Warakapola-Karawanaella, Galapitamada-Nelundeniya and Ruwanwella-Galigamuwa roads. Ancient Seethawaka kingdom was situated over this area. Although I had a tight schedule before the journey, the evening shower ruined some of my plans. Somehow I was able to visit at following places.

Day-1

  1. Dorawaka pre historical cave (දොරවක ලෙන)
  2. Pethangoda garden (පෙතන්ගොඩ උයන) and Wangedi-Molgas Ella (වන්ගෙඩි මෝල්ගස් ඇල්ල)
  3. Manikkadawara ancient Tampiti temple (මැණික්කඩවර ටැම්පිටි විහාරය) and remaining of Portuguese castle
  4. Holombuwa Sthreepura cave temple (හොලොම්බුව ස්ත්රීකපුර විහාරය)
  5. Dadigama Kotawehera (දැදිගම කොට වෙහෙර), archeology museum and Dadigama temple

Day-2

  1. Brandi Kovil (බ්රැදන්ඩි කෝවිල)
  2. Tomb of King Rajasingha (රාජසිoහ සොහොන)
  3. Ancient Britain Castle of Ruwanwella
  4. Palngamuwa suspension bridge (පාලම්ගමුව සoගිලි පාලම) and Hakurugala cave temple (හකුරුගල රජමහා විහාරය)
  5. Manella waterfall (මානැල්ල)

Places of visit- Black star-Dorawaka cave, Purple star-Pethangoda garden, Red star-Manikkadawara temple, Brown star-Holombuwa temple, Green star-Dadigama. Orange star-Britain castle, Yellow star-Palangamuwa Bridge, Blue star-Manella fall

Places of visit – Black star = Dorawaka cave, Purple star = Pethangoda garden, Red star = Manikkadawara temple, Brown star = Holombuwa temple, Green star = Dadigama. Orange star = Britain castle, Yellow star = Palangamuwa Bridge, Blue star = Manella fall – Click Map to Enlarge

Places of visit - Black star = Brandi kovil, Red star = Rajasingha tomb

Places of visit – Black star = Brandi kovil, Red star = Rajasingha tomb – Click Image to Enlarge

Dorawaka pre historical cave

Importance of this cave is it has about 30 sketch drawings belonging to pre historical era.

You have to get Madeniya (මාදෙනිය) bus from Warakapola town. (Alternative bus is Warakapola-Ruwanwella bus and has to get a three-wheeler from the junction where Madeniya road starts). If you tell the conductor or driver they will drop you in front of the road towards the cave. Actually this road starts in front of a boutique. Then you have to walk about 2km, initially it is a concrete road and later it becomes a footpath way within a rubber estate. Vehicles can be driven to a certain extent.

It likes an inverted 'V' shape. 82 feet long, 55feet  high.

It likes an inverted ‘V’ shape. 82 feet long, 55feet high.

Drawings were numbered by the archeology department

Drawings were numbered by the archeology department

Brahmin letters and symbols belong to pre-historical period

Brahmin letters and symbols belong to pre-historical period

Belongs to B.C 8-10

Belongs to B.C 8-10

Sketch of a Tusker

Sketch of a Tusker

If you need a closer view of letters and drawings, have to jump over this fence

If you need a closer view of letters and drawings, have to jump over this fence

Newly built Kuti

Newly built Kuti

Following the cave we walked back to the main road and got the bus towards Pethangoda. (First have to go to the junction where Madeniya road meets Karawanalla road and then Karawanalla/Ruwanwella bus).

Pethangoda garden

You have to get your turn to left side on the Warakapola-Karawanalla road at Pethangoda to watch Pethangoda Bamboo bushes.

The ancient road from Seethawaka kingdom to Central kingdom was situated close to this garden and people were used to rest at this garden on their way.

Following the war with King Wimaladarmasooriya, King I Rajasingha (Seethawaka Rajasingha) came to get a rest here on his way back to the Kingdom. His leg has been pierced by a bamboo thorn and it was enough to kill the King.

Nowadays you can see only two bamboo bushes here. The lake in front of the garden is now covered with plants. Ancient garden was large about 42arches.

There are other stories also behind the death of King Rajasingha. While the king was walking in the garden he was bitten by a cobra and king was unconsciousness due to snake venom. Then he was brought to the Seethawaka kingdom by a boat. Near the Anguruwalla, king’s feet became black. (Gangrenous.) Further down the river, king wanted to step down the boat and he became limp once he stepped on the bank. That area is called Karawanalla. (Korauna walla->Karawanalla)

කොරවුන+ වැල්ල-> කරවනැල්ල

The place where king’s feet became black now called Anguruwalla.

අගුරු වුන+වැල්ල->අගුරු වැල්ල

Warning

Warning – Click Image to Enlarge

Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Two bamboo bushes

Two bamboo bushes

Bamboo thorns

Bamboo thorns

Ancient lake now covered with plants

Ancient lake now covered with plants

Then we preceded our journey towards a nearby waterfall called Wangedi-Molgas Ella. (Actually it is a small water stream). This name is due to a piece of rock likes a “Molgaha” and bathing pool likes a “Wangedi”. You have to walk about 2km from Pethangoda garden towards this waterfall.

So called Molgaha

So called Molgaha

Bathing pool-Wangediya

Bathing pool-Wangediya

After having a bath at this water stream we came back to Pethangoda and got a bus towards Galapitamada. The time was around 2pm and we had to satisfy from bread for our lunch at Galapitamada town.

Then we took the Kegalle bus from Galapitamada and got down at Manikkadawara junction (less buses in this road compared to Warakapola-Ruwanwella road).The archeology board shows the direction towards the temple and distance was 2km from Manikkadawara junction.

Manikkadawara Temple

  • It has three importance.
  • Ancient Tampiti Temple-Belongs to Kandyan era.
  • Paintings of this Tampiti temple. One of them shows a Sinhala king is eating by spoon and fork.
  • The Bo tree. This is the one mention in famous poetry called Thisara sandeshaya. (තිසර සන්දේශය)

Tampiti Temple.-now under renovation. Therefore unable to watch paintings

Tampiti Temple.-now under renovation. Therefore unable to watch paintings

Temple is on 14 stone pillars

Temple is on 14 stone pillars

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

When you cross the road from the temple, you can visit at remaining of Old Portuguese castle. Nowadays you can see star shaped basement only.

Star shaped castle

Star shaped castle

Then we came to Thunthota (තුoතොට) junction and got a three-wheeler to Holombuwa to visit Sthreepura temple.

Holombuwa Sthreepura cave temple.

This is one of an interesting place I have visited.

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.

Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Nice arch over the temple

Nice arch over the temple

The door with paintings

The door with paintings

Small pagoda within the image house

Small pagoda within the image house

Roof paintings

Roof paintings

Perennial pond

Perennial pond

Then we walked about 3km towards the Dadigama (Road on the other side of the temple connects to Dadigama.) It was scenic in the evening.

Another evening to Dadigama

Another evening to Dadigama

Dadigama has three importance.

  • Kotawehera
  • Archeology museum
  • Dadigama ancient temple

Kotawehera

This was built by King I Parakramabahu (1153-1186) at his birth town Dadigama. This pagoda doesn’t have a Pinnacle. Only has three basal rings and dome.

Height is 47feet and top is 26000square feet large

Height is 47feet and top is 26000square feet large

There is a small stupa inside this large stupa

There is a small stupa inside this large stupa

Number of antiques were excavated from this archeology site and now kept at Archeology museum of Dadigama.

The brass elephant oil lamps and gold plated Samadhi Buddha statue can’t be seen there. They are kept at National museum Colombo.

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As it was around 5pm we couldn’t visit at archeology museum at Dadigama. (Archeology museum opens from 8am to 4pm) Then we came back to Colombo.

Day 2

Second day I started my journey from Awissawella and preceded from there towards Ruwanella. Before Thalduwa junction, the archeology board can be seen in right hand side towards the Brandy kovil.

Brandy kovil

The great king Rajasingha (The last king who has brought the Sri Lanka to one canopy in 16th century.) has built this kovil under instructions of “Aretha keewendu Perumal”(අරිඨ්ඨ කී වෙන්ඩු පෙරුමාල්). This was built as seven stories building to worship devil Kala or god Shiva. Rajasingha I has killed his father and later worried about it. The person Aretha Keewndu came from India and instructed the king the only way to come out of the sin is to build a Kovil by diverting the Seethawaka River.

Later Portuguese have destroyed it.

Now we can only observe the basement of this building. This land is boarded by Seethawaka River from three sides.

Brandy Kovil with it’s entrance

Brandy Kovil with it’s entrance

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Following Brandy kovil, we walked towards Thalduwa junction. Our next place of visit was tomb of Rajasingha I. you have to go in Gurugalla road about 2km to reach there.

Tomb of King Rajasingha I

Remaining of the tomb

Remaining of the tomb

Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Then we came back to Thalduwa junction and got the bus to Ruwanwalla.

Ancient Britain Castle of Ruwanwella

This is situated in the right middle of the Ruwanwella town. Nowadays Ruwanwalla police is situated in the castle. I first spoke to the receptionist of the Police and she was kind enough to show remaining of the castle after getting permission.

Entrance of the castle

Entrance of the castle

The year is 1817

The year is 1817

The wall

The wall

This part of the building is also belonging to old castle

This part of the building is also belonging to old castle

Due to historical values of the castle, police can’t do new constructions here. Therefore they have planned to shift the police to somewhere else.

Palangamuwa suspension bridge

You have to walk towards the Ruwanwella ground to visit at suspension bridge. This was built few years ago it is 555feet long and considered as the longest suspension bridge of Sri Lanka.

Longest suspension bridge of Sri Lanka

Longest suspension bridge of Sri Lanka

The Kelani River meets Gurugoda oya

The Kelani River meets Gurugoda oya

This is their bread and butter

This is their bread and butter

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We crossed the bridge and got a three-wheeler to the nearby cave temple called Hakurugala temple.

Hakurugala cave temple

This is considered as a creation of King Rajasingha I. On the way to Hakurugala temple, you can see another rock called “Biso Panna Gala”. බිසෝ පැන්න ගල

Before go to the war, one of the King has told to his seven queens, if he win the war a white flag would be waved otherwise a black flag would be seen. Although he won the war, the person who waved the flag showed the wrong one. Seven queens realized the king has lost the war and suicide by jumping from this rock. Now it is called as Biso Panna Gala.

Biso Panna Gala

Biso Panna Gala

The rock where the cave temple is situated is contact with the ground by only limited area. But the nature has kept this rock like that for a longtime without rolling down.

Hakurugala cave temple

Hakurugala cave temple

Note this rock touches the ground only by limited area. This is the side view

Note this rock touches the ground only by limited area. This is the side view

In some areas you can see the other side

In some areas you can see the other side

Not like other cave temples. Other side of the rock is also a cave. Therefore you can walk around the rock

Not like other cave temples. Other side of the rock is also a cave. Therefore you can walk around the rock

The water flows down from Hakurugala is having high density

The water flows down from Hakurugala is having high density

Image house is under construction

Image house is under construction

Drip ledge

Drip ledge

The person who worked at temple was kind enough to tell all these information as the priest was not at temple at that time. You can have a panorama view from the top of the rock but we didn’t try to climb it.

Manella waterfall

To reach Manella waterfall you have to take Kegalle bus from Ruwanwella and get down at Liyangahamula.(ලියන්ගහ මුල) From there you have to cross the bridge and walk towards Patti pelpita(පට්ටි පැල්පිට)about 2-3km. This bridge was built few years ago and villagers used the ferry to cross Gurugoda oya (ගුරුගොඩ ඔය) before that. If you come from Warakapola, there is a direct bus towards Weragala (වේරගල) to reach Manella fall.

Newly built bridge over the Gurugoda Oya

Newly built bridge over the Gurugoda Oya

Gurugoda Oya flows. It is a branch of Kelani River

Gurugoda Oya flows. It is a branch of Kelani River

Main road and foot pathway towards Manaella. It is not difficult to find the waterfall

Main road and foot pathway towards Manaella. It is not difficult to find the waterfall

Maha Manella (මහා මානැල්ල) waterfall. 20m height. Villagers believe the God Manella stays here and named this waterfall by his name

Maha Manella (මහා මානැල්ල) waterfall. 20m height. Villagers believe the God Manella stays here and named this waterfall by his name

This waterfall has two parts as Maha Manella and Kuda Manella. ( කුඩා මානැල්ල)

This waterfall has two parts as Maha Manella and Kuda Manella. ( කුඩා මානැල්ල)

Kuda Manalla. 6m height

Kuda Manalla. 6m height

Going through bamboo bushes to climb the waterfall

Going through bamboo bushes to climb the waterfall

Puhuwala ela flows to make Manella fall

Puhuwala ela flows to make Manella fall

Friends who came to visit at waterfall

Friends who came to visit at waterfall

After having a bath at Kuda Manella we finished the day. There are some more places belong to Seethawaka kingdom to be visited. Will see later

Thanks for reading

 

Land of Palmyra

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Year and Month May, 2013 (10th, 11th & 12th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 03  - Myself, Ashan and Wuminda
Accommodation Udayan rest-Jaffna-0212225660
Transport
  • From Colombo to Jaffna and return journey by Thinakaran super luxury bus. T.P-0112429673-Colombo Lake House.
  • Within the Peninsula by public transport, three wheel
  • From Jaffna to Islands by boat
Activities Photography, Just travelling and archeology
Weather Excellent
Route
  • Day 1 – Jaffna inland tour and Karainagar returned to Jaffna
  • Day 2 – Delft and Nagadeepa and returned to Jaffna
  • Day 3 – Point of Pedro,VVT,Vallipuram and Manalkadu returned to Jaffna and then Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You have to plan your tour beforehand. List the places you want to visit and make your plan around it.
  • If you have a map of Jaffna it would be easy. We used the Google map in our phones and it was really useful especially within the city.(It avoided unnecessary three wheel tours)
  • If you have motion sickness, better take pills to prevent it when you are going to Delft. It takes about 1 -1.5 hours to reach there. We saw some passengers suffered from this problem.
  • Three wheel charges outside the Jaffna city are reasonable.
  • If you plan to visit at Kanakasanthurai old cement factory need permission from Sri Lanka Army.
  • If you visit at Kadurugoda temple please bring coconut oil, incents sticks and witches as they are lack of it.
  • You can’t visit at fort Hammenhiel resort unless you are going to stay there. Need some Navy contacts if you want to visit there. But can go to Hammenhiel restaurant and have meals.
  • T.P-+94-113818215/6, fhh@navy.lk, forthammenhiel.navy.lk
  • Nathan was our three wheel driver in first day from Jaffna to Karainagar. His charges were fair-Rs. 2500.00.But he can’t speak Sinhala and English.Nathan-0770711991. Ravi-the owner of Udayan rest will arrange him.
  • Bimalan is the ideal person for Delft tour. He charges Rs 1500.00. He can speak English a bit, but friendly and knowledgeable person. Bimalan-0773945146
  • Ireshan was our three wheel driver around Point of Pedro. He charges only Rs 1300.00-extremely fair. He can’t speak Sinhala or English. Ireshan-0783259808
  • Special Thanks to Major Withanachchi Sri Lanka Army KKS, Major Chulanga Special Task Forces and Kosala Tennakoon Medical Officer Sri Lanka Navy
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We wanted to do a complete Jaffna tour within three days. Before plan this trip I read Sri’s Jaffna and Delft report (The Land of Horses-Delft & re-awakening Jaffna) which was the most recent updates of Jaffna in Lakdasun especially about Delft Island. Then I went through Kristy’s reports of Jaffna (Jaffna-Micro Attractions and which gives a good idea about rare places there. Zoysa’s Jaffna report (On the A9 Road to Jaffna 2010) also helped me to know about Vallipuram and VVT. I knew about Fort Hammenheil from Chandanie’s report (Fort Hammenheil-a prison in the middle of the ocean)
We (I and Wuminda) got into Thinakaran bus from in front of Lake House carrying so many plans with our bags. Journey to Jaffna by this but is bit slow as it stops at about 20-30places from Vavniya to Jaffna to throw their news papers. We reached the Jaffna private bus stand around 7.30am and Ashan has come there before us. After having breakfast we walked towards Udayan rest with help of our Google map. We were warmly welcome by Mr. Ravi the owner of the rest. By 9am we were able to start our journey by the three wheel.

Day 1
Our three wheel driver (Nathan) had a poor knowledge outside the city. Therefore he haphazardly brought us to these places. Then we started to direct him as we were knowledgeable than him.

Naguleshwarn Kandasamy Kovil and Keeramale Herbal Pond

Entrance of Naguleshwaran Kovil –one of four Shiva kovilas  located at four corners of the country

Entrance of Naguleshwaran Kovil –one of four Shiva kovilas located at four corners of the country

Importance of the Kovil

Importance of the Kovil – Click Image to Enlarge

Framed picture

Framed picture

Only Shiva Kovil is having male lingam on female lingam-Photo by Ashan

Only Shiva Kovil is having male lingam on female lingam-Photo by Ashan

The way towards Keeramale herbal pond

The way towards Keeramale herbal pond

Then we stepped towards Keeramale Herbal pond which was nearby.

Keeramale Herbal pond

Keeramale Herbal pond

Keeramale beach

Keeramale beach

View of Kanakasanthurai (KKS) from Keeramale

View of Kanakasanthurai (KKS) from Keeramale

Dambakolapatuna is situated few kilometers away from the Keeramale. Our next stop was that.

 Dambakolapatuna

Although they haven’t found any ruins here, according to the literature this place has been identified as Dambakolapatuna.

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We should not forget

We should not forget

Location of Dambakolapatuna

Location of Dambakolapatuna

Dambakolapatuna beach

Dambakolapatuna beach

Statue of Sangamiththa therani

Statue of Sangamiththa therani

Replica of the ship

Replica of the ship

Stupa

Stupa

Once we finished visiting there I got a call for getting permission to visit at Kanakasanthurai cement factory (KKS). I planned to get the permission to visit there and it was on the way.

Kankasanthurai cement factory (KKS)

No further cement production done here and it is having historical value only. Sri Lanka Army uses this place to put their ammunition now. We had a warm welcome there and we were given an army soldier to show the factory.

Old administrative building

Old administrative building

The cement factory

The cement factory

Familiar symbol in those days

Familiar symbol in those days

Still strong

Still strong

Hanging down

Hanging down

Remains of Old Yaldewi train  in the factory

Remains of Old Yaldewi train in the factory

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Few train compartments belong to last Yaldewi train (before the war) can be seen about 1km away from the KKS factory. We went there also and photography was not allowed there.

After thanking them we moved to Kadurugoda/Kandarodai temple.

Kadurugoda temple

Historical background

Historical background – Click Image to Enlarge

Remaining of stupa

Remaining of stupa

All in one

All in one

Here I would like to include some photographs taken at Archaeology museum of Jaffna.

Belongs to Kadurugoda

Belongs to Kadurugoda

Found at Kadurugoda

Found at Kadurugoda

Remains of Buddha statues

Remains of Buddha statues

Found at Kadurugoda

Found at Kadurugoda

Some more

Some more

Then time was around 2pm and our plan was to visit at Fort Hammenhiel at Karainagar for lunch.

Fort Hammenhiel-Karainagar

Actually Karainagar is a separate island from Jaffna. Old navy prison called Fort Hammenhiel has been converted to a hotel which has three rooms (full board for Rs 18000 per day) situated in the small island form main island. The restaurant is at Karainagara beach. This is ruled out by Sri Lanka Navy. We had our lunch there and meanwhile visited at Fort Hammenhiel hotel by boat.

The price of the lunch was reasonable.

Crossing the causeway to Karainagar

Crossing the causeway to Karainagar

Fort Hammenhiel restaurant

Fort Hammenhiel restaurant

Fort Hammenhiel

Fort Hammenhiel

Story of Hammenhiel

Story of Hammenhiel – Click Image to Enlarge

Entrance

Entrance

The picture tells the story how Dutch caught the fort  from Portuguese by destroying the rain water tank

The picture tells the story how Dutch caught the fort from Portuguese by destroying the rain water tank

Entering to a cell

Entering to a cell

Written  by prisoners

Written by prisoners

Luxurious prison compared to present ones

Luxurious prison compared to present ones

JVP leader Rohana Wijeweera also were here

JVP leader Rohana Wijeweera also were here

Courtyard

Courtyard

These were used as stores

These were used as stores

Pigeon couple

Pigeon couple

Telescope

Telescope

View of Jetty

View of Jetty

World is on the table

World is on the table

After enjoying meals and view of fort Hammenheil we needed to have a sea bath at one of a famous and beautiful beaches called Kasurina. It is situated about 5km away from the fort Hammenheil and we hired a three-wheeler to reach there.

Kasurina beach

Evening at Kasurina beach was a wonderful experience.

Kasurina beach

Kasurina beach

Kasurina beach

Kasurina beach

Tasting Palmyra

Tasting Palmyra

Sun set

Sun set

Evening discussion

Evening discussion

Floating-Photography by Ashan

Floating-Photography by Ashan

Another sun set

Another sun set

Different colours

Different colours

Long hair friend

Long hair friend

Sun set behind the Palmyra  trees

Sun set behind the Palmyra trees

Fortunately we got the last bus from Karainagar to Jaffna and came to last visit of the day- Naga Vihara temple

Naga Vihara Temple

This is one of main Buddhist attractions situated in the middle of the Jaffna town.

Historical background of Naga vihara Temple

Historical background of Naga vihara Temple – Click Image to Enlarge

Stupa

Stupa

Image house

Image house

Following worshipping Nagavihara temple we had our Dinner and walked to Udayan Rest.

Day 2

We woke up early morning and our plan was to visit at Delft and Nagadeepa. Soon after our breakfast we got into a bus to Karaikattuvan which started from Jaffna around 6.40am.

We reached Karaikattuwan Jetty around 8am and joined with the queue to Delft. “Wada Tharaka”-Northern star came to Jetty around 9.15am.

Some faces of the queue

Some faces of the queue

Loading passengers

Loading passengers

View of Nainathiw

View of Nainathiw

Happy passengers-lower floor of the boat is hot. Therefore passengers are reluctant to go there and crowded in the cabin and upper floor.

Happy passengers-lower floor of the boat is hot. Therefore passengers are reluctant to go there and crowded in the cabin and upper floor.

After boat started we also joined with the crowd in cabin. It was a fantastic experience and some people had to come to cabin due to vomiting.

Disappearing of  Karaikattuvan

Disappearing of Karaikattuvan

At cabin

At cabin

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Near to Delft Island they transferred passengers and cargo to a small boat as Delft Jetty is not enough to accommodate Wada Tharakai.

Our guide as well as driver of Delft Bimalan waited there to welcome us.

Vada Tharakai

Vada Tharakai

Delft harbour-Note the Ambulance boat

Delft harbour-Note the Ambulance boat

Bimalan started the Journey along the Delft Island.

Statue of Rev.Father

Statue of Rev.Father

Pigeon house-Used to send messages by pigeon

Pigeon house-Used to send messages by pigeon

Court house

Court house

Symbol of the court house

Symbol of the court house

The way through the Delft Hospital towards Dutch fort

The way through the Delft Hospital towards Dutch fort

Dutch fort

Dutch fort

We were loitering at Dutch fort and Ashan was attacked by wasps when he was trying to squeeze through a broken door. Fortunately we were in the hospital premises and got treatment for that.

Appearance of rash following wasp attack

Appearance of rash following wasp attack

Drinking water wells

Drinking water wells

Drinking water wells

Drinking water wells

Beauty of Delft

Beauty of Delft

Harmony-These water tanks are specially made for their purpose

Harmony-These water tanks are specially made for their purpose

Giant foot print

Giant foot print

He thinks it's his foot print

He thinks it’s his foot print

Typical for Delft –made by lime stones and corals

Typical for Delft –made by lime stones and corals

Foundation of Pagodas

Foundation of Pagodas

Happy at least this part is protected

Happy at least this part is protected

Foundation of the pagoda few years ago.. Taken from Jaffna fort information center. Compare the difference

Foundation of the pagoda few years ago.. Taken from Jaffna fort information center. Compare the difference

Swimming beach of Delft

Swimming beach of Delft

Giant Baobab tree

Giant Baobab tree

Growing stone

Growing stone

Posed –Changeable Hawk Eagle

Posed –Changeable Hawk Eagle

Couldn't taste it

Couldn’t taste it

Randomly captured

Randomly captured

Karaikattuwan Jetty in return journey

Karaikattuwan Jetty in return journey

Soon after we arrived at Karaikattuwan Jetty we got into a boat to Nainathiw. Time was around 4.30pm.

Entrance of Nagadeepa Temple

Entrance of Nagadeepa Temple

Historical background

Historical background – Click Image to Enlarge

One picture for whole story

One picture for whole story

Pagoda

Pagoda

Image house

Image house

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

On our way back we noticed a board towards another temple called “Buddha Walawwa Viharaya.”

Direction

Direction

This is the only ancient thing we notice

This is the only ancient thing we notice

Naga Pusani Amman Kovil

Naga Pusani Amman Kovil

Nainathiw stone inscription can be seen in the Nagapusani Kovil-Picture by Ashan

Nainathiw stone inscription can be seen in the Nagapusani Kovil-Picture by Ashan

Leaving from Nainathiw

Leaving from Nainathiw

Another evening to Kraikattuwan Jetty

Another evening to Kraikattuwan Jetty

Fortunately caught the last bus to Jaffna at 5.45pm by last boat from Nainathiw. But there is another task in our to-do list. Therefore we got down the town just before Araly point to get a three wheel to reach Araly point where Lt. Gen Denzil Kobbekaduwa was killed by the LTTE.

The road towards this monument is badly damaged.

Tested vehicle

Tested vehicle

List of Heroes

List of Heroes

As there was no option we hired the same three wheels to Jaffna town for reasonable price. Following our Dinner at Myauran café we walked to Udhayan rest.

Day 3

This was our last day of the trip and our main attraction was Point of Pedro. Before go there we had to visit at some places around Jaffna town. Ravi arranged same three wheel in the early morning. He brought us around the Jaffna.

Jaffna City Tour

Sangili arch believed as the entrance to King Sangili palace

Sangili arch believed as the entrance to King Sangili palace

Rajamanthri Walawwa-Recidence of King Sangili’s chief minister

Rajamanthri Walawwa-Recidence of King Sangili’s chief minister

Entrance of Walawwa

Entrance of Walawwa

The roof

The roof

King Sangili Statue

King Sangili Statue

Behind the Sangili statue there was another old building. Later we knew it Kiddu Park-“Kiddu Poonga”. No idea about importance of it.

Kiddu Park

Kiddu Park

Kiddu park

Kiddu park

Yamunari Pond

Yamunari Pond

Jaffna railway station

Jaffna railway station

Jaffna railway station-no rail tracks at all

Jaffna railway station-no rail tracks at all

Order

Order

Up stair of Jaffna railway station

Up stair of Jaffna railway station

Jaffna Clock tower- Built to commemorate the journey of Prince of Wales at 1875

Jaffna Clock tower- Built to commemorate the journey of Prince of Wales at 1875

This was built by governor James Longdon (1877-1884). The architecture was J. Samdir.

This was built by governor James Longdon (1877-1884). The architecture was J. Samdir.

Jaffna Public Library.-Unable to go in as we were so early.

Jaffna Public Library.-Unable to go in as we were so early.

Story of Jaffna Dutch fort

Story of Jaffna Dutch fort – Click Image to Enlarge

Plan of the fort

Plan of the fort

One entrance of the fort

One entrance of the fort

Jaffna fort under renovation of Dutch aids

Jaffna fort under renovation of Dutch aids

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

From Jaffna fort

From Jaffna fort

Following visit at Jaffna fort we were dropped to Jaffna bus stand. After having breakfast we got a bus to Point of Pedro. First we wanted to visit at Nilavarari bottomless well.

Nilavarari bottomless well

Have to get down at Puttur on the way to Point of Pedro and take the left hand side road about 2.5km to reach this well situated next to a Kovil.

Nilavarai bottomless well

Nilavarai bottomless well

This is not underwater photography

This is not underwater photography

We reached Point of Pedro town by 11.30 am it was dam hot and dusty. Our schedule was so tight and need to go back to Jaffna town before 7.00pm. We discussed with a three wheel driver with little Tamil and more body language. He gave us a fair charge for our schedule.

First we went to see Point of Pedro light house. You can watch it outside but to get in, needs permission from Navy. However Ashan’s friend has prearranged it and we were able to go inside the light house. But we were reluctant to climb it up.

Point of Pedro light house

Point of Pedro light house

Rising up....

Rising up….

Risky

Risky

Inside

Inside

Educational matters

Educational matters – Click Image to Enlarge

Then he drove along the beach road (I think the most northern road of Sri Lanka) first towards the Point of Pedro Jetty and then most northern point of Sri Lanka-Point of Pedro.

Point of Pedro-Jetty

Point of Pedro-Jetty

Most northern point of Sri Lanka

Most northern point of Sri Lanka

Fishing at point of Pedro

Fishing at point of Pedro

Now we are here

Now we are here – Click Image to Enlarge

Passing point of Pedro, we came to Valvettithurai. The LTTE leader Prabakaran and TELO leader Kuttumani have born here. We wanted to visit at Prabakaran’s house. But no evidence of a house there now.

Everything was demolished now

Everything was demolished now

Then we came to Selva Sanadhi Kovil and Thondaman Aru. Katharagama Pada Yathra begins at Selva Sanadhi Kovil. The river next to this Kovil called Thondaman Aru. It has a shallow water but salty.

Selva Sanadhi Kovil –Katharagama Dewalaya of North

Selva Sanadhi Kovil –Katharagama Dewalaya of North

Inside of the Kovil

Inside of the Kovil

Thondaman Aru

Thondaman Aru

We requested Ireshan to bring us to Vallipuram and then Manalkadu beach. He turned the vehicle back and drove towards Vallipuram Kovil. Vallipuram/sand city has a high archaeological back ground. Currently no evidences can be seen here.

Vallipuram Hindu Kovil

Vallipuram Hindu Kovil

Devotees

Devotees

Colorful

Colorful

Manalkadu is famous for sand dunes. On your way towards Manalkadu beach you can notice a large number of sand dunes and it makes a beautiful picture. Just next to Manalkadu cemetery remaining of Manalkadu Dutch Church is visible.

Manalkadu Sand dunes

Manalkadu Sand dunes

View of Telecommunication tower of Point of Pedro from Manalkadu beach

View of Telecommunication tower of Point of Pedro from Manalkadu beach

Remaining of Manalkadu Dutch church

Remaining of Manalkadu Dutch church

We finished our journey around Point of Pedro and said good bye to Ireshan. He asked only Rs1300 for this round. (about 40-50km)

Fortunately got a quick bus towards Jaffna city from Point of Pedro and came to Archeology museum which is close to Udayan rest.

The caretaker of the museum was very kind and he described it very well and allowed us to take pictures although it is prohibited.(I think he tells everyone taking pictures are prohibited but allow it).

Remains of a Whale's skeleton

Remains of a Whale’s skeleton

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Umbrella rack

Umbrella rack

From Jaffna Archeology museum

From Jaffna Archeology museum

From Jaffna Archeology museum

From Jaffna Archeology museum

“Dolawa”

“Dolawa”

Tamil stone inscription

Tamil stone inscription

Then we walked towards famous Nallur Kovil. It is about 500m away from the archeology museum.

Nallur Kovil-No photography inside the Kovil

Nallur Kovil-No photography inside the Kovil

On our return journey we tasted ice cream from Rio as well.

Famous Rio Ice cream shop-Photo by Ashan

Famous Rio Ice cream shop-Photo by Ashan

It ended our three days visit to Jaffna and got the bus towards Colombo.

Thanks for reading

 

The Village way of experiencing Vesak around Maduru oya

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Year and Month May, 2013
Number of Days 2 consecutive days
Crew 2
Accommodation First day at Ampara hospital with my friend Chanaka, Second day at Maha oya Nadeesha rest
Transport A Car
Activities Archeology / wild life / sight seen
Weather Hot and Humid
Route
  • D1: Monaragala -> Siyambalanduwa -> Ampara -> Uhana -> Maha Oya -> Rambakan oya -> Maha Oya -> Maduru Oya -> Maha oya 
  • D2: Maha oya -> Padiyathalawa -> Dambana -> Ulhitiya -> Rathkinda -> Henanigala -> Kudagala -> Dehiaththakandiya -> Aralaganvila -> Kandegama -> Maduru oya -> Maha Oya
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Get permission from the head priest
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Behave accordingly at hermitages
  • Explain your intentions clearly
  • My main intention is creating awareness, if you need more information I can email you few images taken from Ellawala Medananda thero’s book.
Related Resources
  1. Web page: Lesser Known attraction SLTDA
  2. Books: Digamadulu wandana gamana , Sinhala Baudda Urumaya by Ven Ellawala Medhananda thero
Author
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
map of maduru oya - Click to enlarge

map of maduru oya – Click to enlarge

The coming weekend was Vesak holidays and there would be plenty of free food everywhere waiting for me to have a taste. So I decided to hang around Maha oya and experience the village style of celebrating Vesak though my main objective was visiting few archaeology sites. I got together with my batch mate Chanaka and arrived at Maha oya leisurely at around 9am and after having some breakfast we wanted to visit one of the Mega irrigation projects which was underway. It was a 19Km drive along Rathmalgaha ela dusty road to reach Rambaken oya reservoir and on the way we also noted roughly about 4 or 5 new lakes been completely restored and the canal system connecting each other was reconstructed in parallel with Rambaken oya reservoir project. I have never seen a huge project like this in Sri Lanka, so I recommend you guys to go and see this newly built reservoir which is located at a beautiful location on the outskirts of Gal oya national park. Though the reservoir is not fully done there is some water staged up with weeds. The most fascinating finding is the ancient canal system running away from the ancient dam located at the same location signifying that this reservoir was once a fully functional one. To get to this canal system (also called watawala kandiya) one needs to take a left turn just before the newly built dam where a rock symbol can be found. It is indeed an engineering miracle. I wonder how the huge rocky plates were fitted together. The lock system was so simple and successful that it still holds on. We did experience how the local villages came in tractors to see the reservoir while visiting other lesser known temples in the region. This is something totally different from the “Vesak” rounds people do in urban areas and this seems to be the correct way of spending Vesak day other than religious activities. To our surprise each and every archaeology site we visited had loads of local visitors who traveled by tractors.

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Rambakan oya
Once dammed and tamed by the great Kings of Sri Lanka like King Saddatissa and Parakramabahu the great Rambakan Oya is a tributary of Mundeni Aru, which flaws though Borders of Moneragala and Ampara.Today after being cold stored for nearly three decades due to the war, Rambakan Oya irrigation project is back on track with a mega dam being built in Pollebadda, a village occupied by the Vedda, the Indigenous community of Lanka.
Rambakan Oya would be the biggest irrigation project in the Eastern province and is expected to cost Rs. 2.5 billion rupees. The project provides clean accessible drinking water to over 2,500 families in the area who now walk miles for drinkable water, in these semi-arid provinces.The dam will be over one kilometre long and 25 meters tall sustaining 130 square kilometres of water. The dam would have three sluice gates including a separate gate for the supply of drinking water.From the dam a 6.7 kilometer long Anicut is being constructed to feed the water to six other smaller reservoirs, which are also under construction. These six reservoirs would provide water to irrigate over 12,000 acres while a 12 kilometer underground canal carrying drinking water would be constructed connecting to a new reservoir named in Nilabe.Nearly 3000 families, who were exiled from their land due to raging war, would be resettled under the new irrigation scheme bringing hope to lives ravaged by a three decade long war.

Rambaken oya reservoir

Rambaken oya reservoir

full of weeds

full of weeds

danigala range as seen from rambaken oya

Danigala range as seen from rambaken oya

what a view

what a view

under construction

under construction

gates of the reservoir

gates of the reservoir

ancient canal system spreading 100 meters at rambaken oya

ancient canal system spreading 100 meters at rambaken oya

 inscription on the waterway

inscription on the waterway

meaning

meaning

two canals

two canals

the lock system

the lock system

On the way back to Maha oya we saw a black board saying Hingure mada, where we had to take a left turn and again after traveling 1km another turn to the left. The road was totally washed away at one point and we had to leave back the vehicle and walk about 2Km to get to the temple which was surrounded by the lake on three sides. On our way we met a Vedda villager of Pollebedda and asked the distance to the temple and he answered “Tawa Damwel hatharaka dura tiyenawa mahaththayo” and after hearing that we were perplexed for few seconds and continued wondering what was the length of a “dam wala”. At the temple premises one can find the ancient sthupa few ruins of building complexes, etc. For me the best thing was the stunning view of the surrounding lake. While returning back we did come across a “beema dansala” and a “Bath dansala” which full filled our requirements for the day.

Hingure mada pagoda

Hingure mada pagoda

korawak stone and a moonstone at Hingure mada

korawak stone and a moonstone at Hingure mada

more pillars at Hingure mada

more pillars at Hingure mada

beauty

beauty

lake at Hingure mada

lake at Hingure mada

Next stop was Henannegala Cave temple which is 10km away on Aralaganvila road. This giant cobra hood like rock is located right on the side of the road and within five minutes one can get to the base of it via the foot path. This was once said to be an Hermitage which harbored 500 monks and this is a must visit place for a traveler. The chief monk is very helpful and he would give a nice description about every inch of it also don’t forget to enjoy the view from the vandalized sthupa. Actually this was a brisk visit and we couldn’t explore the area properly. So if you are going there take some time to visit the ancient kuti, vedda drawings, to see the pre historic weapons, and climb the rock if time permits. Just like Rambaken oya Henannegala also was filled with visitors who came to worship the place.

Henannegala cave temple

Henannegala cave temple

its vesak

its vesak

what to see

what to see

wow

wow

the pond

the pond

omanugala as seen from the base of the rock

omanugala as seen from the base of the rock

vandalized

vandalized

paintings

paintings

plenty of kuti

plenty of kuti

villages visiting historical sites during vesak

villages visiting historical sites during vesak

After a quick chat with the monk we hurried towards the Maduru oya reservoir to enjoy a spectacular sun set. The ancient “sorouwa’ which was found during the initial constructions of Maduru oya reservoir project can be seen on the southern end of the dam and the archaeology department information board has lot of details about the history of it. The spectacular sun set made our day but the full moon over Omanugala plus jumbos of Maduru oya made it a memorable one.

Omanugala changing its shape

Omanugala changing its shape

on guard

on guard

ancient sorouwa of maduru oya

ancient sorouwa of maduru oya

bit of history

bit of history – Click to enlarge

sun set at maduru oya

sun set at maduru oya

towards ulhitiya

towards ulhitiya

towards narakamulla and barons cap

towards narakamulla and barons cap

splendid scenery

splendid scenery

 the process of vanishing off

the process of vanishing off

here she goes

here she goes

a huge pack

a huge pack

Day two one of my colleagues (Sanjaya) from Monaragala did join with me and both of us together decided to ride around the Maduru oya reservoir. And at around 8am we took off towards Dambana where we first visited Mawaragala hermitage which was right on the side of the road. This is a huge hermitage which extends uphill, we did come across a closed drip ledge image house at the “bo maluwa” and not so far away from that a large “bawana gala” can be found. At that particular time a person was meditating so we didn’t make any disturbing sounds while enjoying the surrounding. There is a foot path that leads to the summit but it is overgrown and difficult to tackle so we had to abandon that idea. After reaching the entrance point we entered the area with plenty of drip ledge caves where meditating monks reside. Some drip ledge caves had inscriptions too; this is a very well maintained and functioning hermitage with many monks. The four guard stones’ resembling the ones found in Anuradhapura was a fascinating find in such a location.

mawaragala hermitage dambana

mawaragala hermitage dambana

piece of art

piece of art

 drip ledge cave at mawaragala hermitage

drip ledge cave at mawaragala hermitage

image house

image house

in deep meditation

in deep meditation

modern day sculptures

modern day sculptures

ruins at mawaragala hermitage

ruins at mawaragala hermitage

wow the guard stones

wow the guard stones – Click to enlarge

 a superb korawak stone

a superb korawak stone

modernized kuti

modernized kuti

some had inscriptions

some had inscriptions

one of those caves

one of those caves

the bitter truth

the bitter truth

learning process

learning process

From Mawaragala we continued about 1km towards Mahiyangana and at 52 mile post junction we took the road towards Ulhitiya which was in bad shape all the way to Henanigala. On the way we did have some stops at the dams of Ulhitiya and Rathkinda to enjoy some stunning scenery. One can simply enjoy the whole of knuckles range without much of a fuss. Next we reached Henanigala tank. At a point from the dam of Henanigala we took a left turn and reached Panchawasa temple with uttermost difficulty due to bad road conditions.

view from ulhitiya bund

view from ulhitiya bund

view towards towards kokagala

view towards towards kokagala

view towards knuckles range

view towards knuckles range

mini worlds end madolsima  as seen from ulhitiya

mini worlds end madolsima as seen from ulhitiya

a shikra

a shikra

reflection at Rathkinda

reflection at Rathkinda

one leg up and one hand up

one leg up and one hand up

Rathkinda reservoir panorama

Rathkinda reservoir panorama

This is again one of those must visit temples with plenty to see. There is an ancient Buddha statue at the entrance and not so far away there is a huge rock fortress and a small pond with a cobra carved on a rock. Inside the temple complex one can find a pagoda, image house, bo maluwa and few other building in ruins completing the requirement for a Panchawasa temple. And I would love to re visit this place someday specially because of the scenic rock on the opposite side of the temple complex.

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Henanigala Panchawasa Raja Maha Viharaya

Believed to be one of the sixty four temples built by King Kawanthissa, Senanigala shot to fame when his son, great King Dutugamunu, chose the rock monastery to gather his forces against King Elara, a Tamil king who usurped the throne of Anuradhapura. 

Identified to be one of the two ‘panchavasa’ temples remaining in the country Senanigala holds a stupa, a shrine room, a bodhigara or house around the Bodhi tree, a gathering hall and a preaching hall essential to qualify as a ‘panchavasa’ temple. 

Scattered around the main temple on the rocky plateau are a compound laid with stone slabs anda ninety five feet long drip-ledged cave, which housed the meditating monks of the eras gone by. Among the broken statues are a five feet tall Buddha image and a six feet statue believed to be of King Datugemunu.  A moonstone adorned only with figures of elephants, stairway stones and stone pillars of intricate beauty adores the entrance to the shrine room. The stairway stone or Korawakgal are over five feet tall and are believed to be the tallest found in the country while the shrine room has a two entrance structure unique to Senanigala. A bodhigara or a stone housing built around the Bo tree found near the pond lay in ruins although the stone slabs laid around the Bo tree still remain intact. But the stupa had been completely vandalised by treasure hunters its body carved out and its top taken apart and thrown away. 

Nothing but a road paved with stones wide enough for two horse chariots to pass abreast still remain at the foot of the mountain as witness to the bustling army organisation that was present in and around Senanigala nearly 2100 years ago. 

Turn left onto Mahiyangane-Dimbulagala-Dalukkane Hwy –Diyawiddagama – Nawa Medagama (22 Km From Mahiyanganaya) – Turn to Henanigala road (5 Km) (225 Km 4 Hours 25 Min)

fortress at henanigala

fortress at henanigala

budhdha statue at henanigala panchawasa temple

budhdha statue at henanigala panchawasa temple

at the entrance at henanigala panchawasa temple

at the entrance at henanigala panchawasa temple – Click to enlarge

beauties

beauties

the cobra carving

the cobra carving

an inscription

an inscription

bodhi maluwa

bodhi maluwa

sannipatha shalawa

sannipatha shalawa

plenty of visitors

plenty of visitors

budu geya

budu geya

72 ancient korawak stone

cracked moon stone

cracked moon stone

bahiwaraya

bahiwaraya

part of a punkalasa

part of a punkalasa

the pagoda

the pagoda

panoramic view of knuckles from the temple rock

panoramic view of knuckles from the temple rock

Next we headed along the canal system again and somehow managed to find Kuda gala Punchi Seegiriya. Actually the term is misleading, may be this place is called Seegiriya because it had murals (now not to be found) similar to the ones found in Seegiriya and Gonagolla. There is a rock just like Seegiriya very close to this said site which resembles the shape of Seegiriya rock which adds up to the confusion. The Kudagala complex is an ancient hermitage where one can find a cave which had murals in the center of the rock and there are few drip ledge kuti in the area too. There is a foot path to the summit but we were not in an adventurous mood on that particular day. So after having a look around and enjoying some “dawal dane” ;-) we headed towards Dehiaththakandiya road.

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Kuda gala punchi seegiriya

Known as the Kuda-sigiriya for its drip ledged caves adorned with murals Kudagala had been a monastery for the last two thousand years. Situated few miles away from Dehiattakandiya Kudagala is a three hundred meter tall mountain in a range that governs the horizon on the Weheragala road.  

Although most of the caves had been designed as abodes for the meditating monks and had been sponsored by a group of merchants, in the area, according to a rock inscription found on a rock table, one cave carries the remnants of murals drawn on a specially laid plaster inside a cave designed to be a shrine room. The murals drawn with natural colors mainly illustrate red, orange, green and brown and have been polished over with a natural wax to safeguard then from rain and glare. 

The design created with lotus flowers and vines is the only remaining part of a mural, which had once covered the whole ceiling of the cave. A new plaster had been laid over some parts of the mural while some parts, alleged to be comprising a picture of a bodhisattva had been covered with a white paint, done by the ignorant at the beginning of the last century.

The entrance to the cave faces a steep slope and has a natural rock terrace which affords a view of the Mahaweli River and the Hunnasgiriya mountain range. The small holes on floor of the cave would have been made to support the wooden roof, which would have sheltered the cave entrance and the Buddha statue, which lay in ruins today. 

Remnants of a stupa, which would have been once visible to the whole valley below, stands on the top of the mountain, pillaged by treasure hunters while it’s top and bricks lay strewn around. 

Colombo – Kandy – Mahiyanganaya – Giradurukotte Road – Sadungama – Dehiatthakandiya – Aralaganvila Road (6 KM) – Iluk kade Juntion – Kumaragala Mahaweli Village (5Km) – Kudagala(243 KM, 4 hours 31 Min)

seegiriya like rock near kuda gala

seegiriya like rock near kuda gala (image from SLTDA)

kuda seegiriya rock

kuda seegiriya rock

the cave as seen from the road

the cave as seen from the road

a kutiya

a kutiya

a statue

a statue

steps towards the cave

steps towards the cave

a place to meditate

a place to meditate

 few more steps to tackle

few more steps to tackle

cave with murals

cave with murals

the gap

the gap

plaster with faded flower patterns

plaster with faded flower patterns

scenery from the cave

scenery from the cave – click to enlarge

From Dehiaththakandiya we took off to Aralaganvila and just before entering the Maduru oya national park we came across an archaeology board which forced us to have a look. At the boarder of the national park of Maduru oya Kandegama archaeological reserve can be found. This is a huge complex with 70 drip ledge caves and out of those we did visit only about four or five, there is a newly built pagoda and an image house at one of those huge caves with a drip ledge. The most significant finding was the inscription been on a side rather than on the top of the cave. There is ruined image house also which seems to be partly restored in the premises. According to the chief monk there is plenty more to see around including the reclined vandalized Buddha statue at a summit level cave. Here is a link to an interesting article on Kandegama reserve which has loads of information. After a brief visit we headed back via Maduru oya to Maha oya where we enjoyed a sun set over a paddy field to end our Vesak adventure.

Kandegama mountain

Kandegama mountain

the sthupa

the sthupa

newly built image house

newly built image house

the kutiya with the karaduwa

the kutiya with the karaduwa

an image house

an image house – click to enlarge

little monk showing us few caves out of 70

little monk showing us few caves out of 70

steps

steps

where they meditate

where they meditate

another cave

another cave

the drip ledge inscription

the drip ledge inscription

exploring around

exploring around

passing by shot of omanugala (may be on another day)

passing by shot of omanugala (may be on another day)

sun set over a paddy field

sun set over a paddy field

have a nice sleep traveler

have a nice sleep traveler

Thanks for reading!

Kalpitiya Dutch Fort and Thonigala

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Year and Month May, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 4 Adults
Accommodation Not Required
Transport Car
Weather Heavy rains throughout the trip
Route Colombo –> Negombo –> Kalpitiya and back.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It was a rush trip to pave way to a more planned trip
Author Christy
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Last year, my friend from Australia compelled us to run through Trincomalee on a rush trip with his family. My trip report too was equally a rushed one!!!

This time he came alone and suddenly demanded a trip to Kalpitiya, just to enjoy the bio diversity!!!!. I had time only to arrange an approval from Sri Lankan Navy to visit the Dutch Fort.

We started around 4.00 am from Maharagama. It was raining cats and dogs and motoring was virtually difficult.

By the time we reached the extended arm of the island, it was morning and the weather was not that promising. However we were able to go to coal power plant of Norochcholei and got down in front.

The area is scattered with wind power generators which is a very pleasant scenery for any green person, especially in the vicinity of a coal plant.

WIND MILLS

WIND MILLS

However the giant(Coal power plant) was sleeping when we were there. No activities at all. A friendly navy person with a high sense of humor commented “ It is always sleeping and once in a while gets up to send out smokes to say it is still alive”.

SLEEPING GIANT OF NOROCHCHOLE

SLEEPING GIANT OF NOROCHCHOLE

With the approval of Navy, we stayed half an hour in the beach and proceeded to our next destination.

BEACH NEAR POWER PLANT

BEACH NEAR POWER PLANT

PART 2

AGRICULTURE IN PROGRESS

AGRICULTURE IN PROGRESS

St. Anne’s Church of Thalawila itself is a one day trip. However by the time we reached it, the rain was pelting and we could not even get down from the car. We stayed in the car for some time and no sooner the rain stopped for a short spell, visited the place in a rush.

Following is extracted from internet about the church.

“The Thalawila church has a long history and once account says that a European Trader travelling in a ship dedicated to St. Anne, was shipwrecked off the coast of Thalawila in the 18th century and found the church following success in business after placing a vow at this place. The other account says that in the 17th century a Portuguese man travelling from Mannar to Colombo slept at a tree in Thalawila and dreamt seeing St. Anne’s statue at the foot of tree, and when he awoke from the dream the statue was physically there as he dreamt.”

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THALAWILA CHURCH

THALAWILA CHURCH

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PART 3
From Thalawila, we drove direct to the Dutch Fort of Kalpitiya.

The Fort is a part of the Navy Command hence prior approval is required to visit the Fort. They were very helpful and gave us a guided tour.

NAVY COMMAND IN KALPITIYA

NAVY COMMAND IN KALPITIYA

The Fort was built in 1667, on the spot where the Portuguese had a stockade and a Jesuit chapel. It is classified as a medium size Fort. The walls are about 4 meters high and inside are the remnants of the chapel, a commander’s house, barrack rooms, a prison and several go downs.
It was said that consent to build the Fort was obtained from the ruling King on the pretext that it would only a cover for the church. Two church like arches were built inside the complex to make outsiders believe that it was in fact a church. When seen from inside, these arches have no relevance to the main buildings.
There was a tunnel leading from the Fort. It is now closed.
The Fort bears a deteriorated appearance and in need of urgent restoration. A Navy Officer told us that several foreign tourists have expressed their willingness to fund such a task but no one bothered to pursue those offers. Usual scenario !!!!

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

MAP OF THE FORT

MAP OF THE FORT – Click Image to Enlarge

SIGNS OF ENGLISH OCCUPANCY ON THE DOOR

SIGNS OF ENGLISH OCCUPANCY ON THE DOOR – Click Image to Enlarge

BELL ARCH OVER MAIN DOOR

BELL ARCH OVER MAIN DOOR – Click Image to Enlarge

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WATCH TOWER

WATCH TOWER

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LEADING TO TUNNEL

LEADING TO TUNNEL

TUNNEL NOW CLOSED

TUNNEL NOW CLOSED

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PRIDE OF NAVY BOYS

PRIDE OF NAVY BOYS

After the guided tour of the Fort, a Navy brother volunteered to take us to a clean and safe bathing place. We had to drive following his motor bike for a considerable distance to a Navy guarding point facing the sea (not the lagoon). The guarding point is only a temporary hut but warm welcome of the Navy boys instantly made it our home.

NAVY POINT WITH POOR FACILITIES

NAVY POINT WITH POOR FACILITIES

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PIER

PIER

A roughly laid stone pier which extended to the sea has made an alcove where fishing boats were shored. All incoming and outgoing boats are required to report to the Navy point.

FISHING HARBOUR

FISHING HARBOUR

BOATS REPORTING TO NAVY

BOATS REPORTING TO NAVY

PART 05
It is a unique bathing place safe from rough sea and we spent several hours in water. All had to suffer scratching sun burns for several days after the trip.

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After a bath of fresh water, we had our lunch inside the Navy hut.

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NAVY BOYS WHO ASSISTED US

NAVY BOYS WHO ASSISTED US

AT LAST WE FOUND THEM

AT LAST WE FOUND THEM

PART 06
The day was still young and I asked our Australian friend whether he wish to go any other places. He readily told us that he wanted to visit Thonigala.
Thonigala is a rock located in Anamaduwa about 2 kilometers from the town, on Puttalam Road. It is famous for 2 gigantic rock inscriptions made on it. The tank called Galawewa is bordering the rock.
About 20 feet above the bottom line of the Rock, there are inscriptions carved on the rock face . Each letter is about a foot in height and has been chiseled out for an inch deep in to the rock.
Some times back, these inscriptions were covered with soil by villagers to protect them from erosion. Now the State has taken over the function and let the nature to do the obvious job. ( I always wonder why people of this country rely on an alarmingly inefficient government department to protect our heritage. It is high time to form an organization to do that. )
Apart from the inscriptions, the place is of interest and of beauty due to the low level rock, the wewa and the greenery surrounding. Ecological beauty is beyond imaginations. The environment is unique for camping.

ONLY 150 METERS FROM THE ROAD

ONLY 150 METERS FROM THE ROAD

THE WALK IS ENCHANTING

THE WALK IS ENCHANTING

YET TO REACH FIRST ONE

YET TO REACH FIRST ONE

PASSING THE TANK

PASSING THE TANK

FIRST GIRI LIPI

FIRST GIRI LIPI

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SCRIPT

Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisaha wapi acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa dine. Dewana pi maharaja Gamini Abaye niyate acanagaraka ca [tawi] rikiya nagaraka ca. Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisa niyata pite raj aha agata anagata catudisa sagasa.

TRANSLATION

The tank of the parumaka Tisa, son of the parumaka Abhaya, at the mountain of Acagirika Tisa, is given to the priesthood of the four quarters, present and absent. The great king, beloved of the gods, Gamini Abhaya, ordered : Acanagara and Tawirikiyanagara, which have been established
by my father, King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, [are given] to the priesthood of the four quarters, present and absent.

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The second inscription, largest ever, is another tranquilizing walk away.

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SOME RUINS

SOME RUINS

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SECOND ROCK INSCRIPTION

SECOND ROCK INSCRIPTION

SCRIPT
Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisa niyate. Ima wapi acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa. Dewana piya maharaje Gamini Abaye niyate acanagaraka catawirikiya nagaraka ca acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa. Parumaka baya puta parumaka Tisaha wisara niyate pite.

TRANSLATION
King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, ordered : This tank at the Acagirika Tisa mountain is given to the priesthood of the four quarters present and absent. The great king, beloved of the gods, Gamini Abhaya, ordered : Acanagara and Tawirikiya nagara [are given] to the priesthood in the four quarters present and absent. The tank of King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, is established by my father.

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EVERY TRIP HAS A COMMON DEFECT.
IT ENDS


Four days at Mannar and Wilpattu

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Year and Month April, 2013
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew Five (Myself, wife, daughter and two sons)
Accommodation Four Tees Rest Inn at Mannar and a private house at Wilpattu
Transport Car
Activities A Family trip, Visiting Adam’s bridge, Wild life
Weather Excellent
Route Gampaha -> Puttalam -> Nochchiyagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Thanthirimale -> A14 -> Murukkan ->
Seelawathura -> Arippu  Mannar -> Thalaimannar -> Back on the same route to Nochchiyagama -> Wilpattu -> Puttalam -> Gampaha.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Four Tees Rest Inn is an average place with reasonable charges
  • Try to be as early as possible at Thalaimannar pier, to avoid the scorching sun, on your return journey.
Author Wije
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We started at 5.00 am from Gampaha and reached Puttalam rest house by 8.00 am and had our breakfast.

Puttalam lagoon and wind power mill

Puttalam lagoon and wind power mill

From Puttalam it was a relaxing drive along A12 and passing Wilpattu we turned left at Nochchiyagama towards Oyamaduwa and reached Thanthirimale temple. This road is narrow and curvy but well paved.
When the Sri Maha Bodi was brought from India by Buddhist nun Sangamitta, the pot containing the sapling was kept at Thanthirimale for one night. It is believed that there was one branch separately grew from the pot and it was planted at Thanthirimale.

We climbed (apparently ran) the rock and it was boiling, under scorching sun.

Thanthirimale Rock

Thanthirimale Rock

Top of the rock

Top of the rock

The Bo tree at the top of the rock

The Bo tree at the top of the rock

Reclining statue

Reclining statue

From Thanthirimale we drove another 10 KM to meet A14 Medawatchchiya/Mannar road at Gajasinghapura. Then we came to Madu junction and turned right and drove another 10 KM to reach Madu church. The road was in great shape all the way up to the church.

Turnoff from A14 to Madu

Turnoff from A14 to Madu

Madu Church

Madu Church

Surroundings are very peaceful

Surroundings are very peaceful

Mannar railway line under construction

Mannar railway line under construction

From Madu we came to Murukkan along A14 and turned left to reach Seelawathura. From there we drove another 5 KM on a gravel road to reach Dorick House, the colonial bungalow which was built in 1804, the residence of the first Governor of Sri Lanka, Sir Fedrick North.

Ruins of Dorick House

Ruins of Dorick House

Dorick tower seen at a distance

Dorick tower seen at a distance

This house was built near Silawathura beach and some of the walls were seen fallen on to the beach.

Inside the house

Inside the house

Fallen parts of the building

Fallen parts of the building

Driving another few kilometers on the same gravel road, we reached Fort of Arippu. This was a Dutch Fort where Robert Knox sought protection to escape after his 19 years (1660 – 1679) captivity. Robert Knox is popular for the book he wrote, named ‘Historical relations of Ceylon’

Fort of Arippu

Fort of Arippu

Inside the Fort has become a jungle

Inside the Fort has become a jungle

From Arippu we came back to Murukkan and drove towards Mannar and then stopped near Giant tank and had our lunch and it was almost 5.00 pm.

Giant tank

Giant tank

Giant tank

Giant tank

From Giant tank we proceeded along A14 and came to Thirukedeeswaran Kovil. We couldn’t get near as the gate was closed. Thereafter, we visited the Biobab tree which is situated in the heart of Mannar town.

Thirukedeeswaran Kovil

Thirukedeeswaran Kovil

Biobab Tree

Biobab Tree

This tree was brought there by Arabians during 1477 which is 7.5 meters tall and has a circumference of 19 meters.

Biobab tree

Biobab tree

Huge trunk of the tree

Huge trunk of the tree

Then we proceeded through Mannar causeway and came to Four Tees Inn.

Mannar causeway

Mannar causeway

We were greeted by the owner Mr. Lawrence a very helpful and obliging person.

Next day morning we left to Thalaimannar to visit Adam’s bridge. It’s 24 Four Tees Inn and the road was excellent.KM from

Sri Lanka Navy operates boat tours to Adams bridge sand dune islands. It is also called Rama’s bridge or Rama Sethu. They charge Rs 600/= per head and our boat could accommodate six. We were given life saving jackets and there was a life saver also to accompany us, in addition to the boat operator. So the safety is guaranteed.

Road to Thalaimannar

Road to Thalaimannar

At Thalalimannar pier

At Thalalimannar pier

Adam’s bridge is a 30 KM long chain of 16 islands. The folk story is that ‘Rama’ had built this bridge with the help of ‘Hanuman’ to rescue ‘Sitha’ from ‘Ravana’.

We started the boat tour around 7.00am

We started the boat tour around 7.00am

Riding towards the deep sea

Riding towards the deep sea

The sea was calm and it was an unforgettable journey and really enjoyable. After about one hour we reached the second island of the Adam’s bridge.

They were disturbed by our boat

They were disturbed by our boat

Flying away

Flying away

Getting close to the island

Getting close to the island

This island is home for several birds

This island is home for several birds

We walked through these shallow ponds

We walked through these shallow ponds

And finally reached the second island

And finally reached the second island

It was an amazing experience when you land on it. As you step on to the island, you get the feeling that it’s virtually a desert. But when you explore it deeply, you will realize that it is actually a heaven.

Some flowering plants

Some flowering plants

Probably unique to this island

Probably unique to this island

Another peculiar plant unique to this island

Another peculiar plant unique to this island

Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes on the beach

Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes on the beach

There were some nice drawings on the sand, done by the master sculptor, ‘Nature’

Nicely drawn by waves

Nicely drawn by waves

Another peculiar drawing on sand

Another peculiar drawing on sand

We were walking freely from one end to the other and it was a wonderful experience.

Amazing landscape

Amazing landscape

image079

Amazing landscape

Freely walking

Freely walking

Freely walking

Freely walking

Getting ready for the return journey

Getting ready for the return journey

Hard life of a fisherman

Hard life of a fisherman

Talaimannar pier seen from the sea

Talaimannar pier seen from the sea

'Thal kola Weta' Palmyra leave fence is Very common in Mannar

‘Thal kola Weta’ Palmyra leave fence is Very common in Mannar

We came to Four Tees Inn around 11 am and after having lunch said good bye to Mr. Lawrance and came on the same route through Thanthirumale to Nochchiyagama and then to Wilpattu. We stayed at a private house arranged by my trekker Sampath and next day by 6.30 am we were at Wilpattu entrance.

6.30 am at Wilpattu entrance

6.30 am at Wilpattu entrance

It was just after the rainy season and the park was looking bright with lush greenery all over with blooming flowers and the water levels had gone down. We drove for about five hours but did not come across any significant sighting except for few birds. I am not a birder and therefore I have no idea of their nomenclature.

1

1

Just by the side of the road

Just by the side of the road

2

2

3

3

4

4

5

5

6

6

7

7

8

8

9

9

My guess is they are all common birds.

Then we came to Modaragam Aru river near the Kokmote bungalow. We had a nice cool dip there and had lunch.

Kokmete bungalow

Kokmete bungalow

River Modaragam

River Modaragam

Captured near Modaragam river

Captured near Modaragam river

Another colourful one at Modaragam river

Another colourful one at Modaragam river

Enjoying a bath

Enjoying a bath

Moving very slowly

Moving very slowly

Fully grown sambur

Fully grown sambur

Just crossed in front of our jeep

Just crossed in front of our jeep

They were not in abundance this time

They were not in abundance this time

It was almost 5.30 pm and we decided to get back. On our way to the main entrance, all of a sudden the driver stopped the jeep and signaled us to be quiet. We were amazed to see a sloth bear about ten meters away from the jeep.

He was hidden behind a shrub and couldn't get a good view

He was hidden behind a shrub and couldn’t get a good view

After few minutes he moved away hurriedly and walked into the jungle

After few minutes he moved away hurriedly and walked into the jungle

We were disappointed as we couldn’t get a good view. Then we moved little forward and our trekker Sampath asked the driver to stop the jeep and turn off the engine. We patiently waited for about five minutes and to our luck the bear appeared again and came near the jeep and stood for few seconds, without moving even an inch. He was inviting us to snap him as much as possible, so we did it.

Unmoved, Nicely posing, just by the side of the road

Unmoved, Nicely posing, just by the side of the road

Then he moved a bit and looked at us

Then he moved a bit and looked at us

and vanished into the jungle

and vanished into the jungle

Walking away

Walking away

We came to the bungalow around 6.30 pm. Next day morning we returned home with loads of remarkable memories.

 

Yatiyanthota-Bulathkohupitiya re-explored on bikes!

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Year and Month July, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 4 (Ashan / Amila / Harinda / Sri )
Accommodation N/A
Transport two bikes
Activities Waterfall Hunting / Scenery / Bike ride
Weather Sunny day
Route Maharagama -> Avissawella -> Karawanella -> Yatiyanthota -> Parusella -> Malalpola -> Halgolla -> Punugala -> Amanawala -> Halgolla tea factory -> Wewelthalawa -> returned back to Parusella -> Ampagala -> Puna hela -> Bulathkohupitiya -> Thunbage -> Dedugala -> Ihala Pelanpitiya -> Bulathkohupitiya -> Gonaramba -> Ruvanwella -> Avissawella -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Don’t disturb wild life
  • Wewethalawa / Wewelthalawa requires 4WD access
  • Need special permission to visit ITN transmission tower but you don’t need permission
    to get to the top of the mountain
  • Beware of broken glass bottles
  • There are Leeches, be ready to tackle them
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Rocks may be slippery
  • Beware “Mana” is sharp, you will itch for weeks

**SPECIAL THANKS TO** Lahiru

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map 1

Map 1 / Click to enlarge

Map 2

Map 2 / Click to enlarge

It had been raining continuously during the past few weeks and the waterfalls were living their dream. It was time for another waterfall hunt and the idea was further facilitated by my friend Amila who said lets go on a bike ride and find few cascades tomorrow. So as usual this bike ride was planned on 8pm on the previous day and to be successfully carried out on the following day. Harinda decided to break the silence and join in this venture after a long pause and Sri was ever so ready to explore some beauties. We decided to explore Wee oya valley of Yatiyanthota and Ritigaha wahaka oya valley in Bulathkohupitiya , targeting few hidden cascades that were waiting until some waterfall lovers visit them.

So all four of us got together as planned at 4.30am at Maharagama and headed towards Avissawella, where the magical sun rise over Kelani River forced us to step on the breaks. Next stop was Karawanella where we had our breakfast and also packed up some bread as lunch and hurried towards Yatiyanthota. From Yatiyanthota we took the Seeforth road along Wee oya valley. The scenery towards Wee oya forced us to take few stops even before we had a glimpse of the first cascade of the day. Wee oya falls can be viewed cascading from the slopes of the opposite mountain resembling Diyaluma falls just before reaching Halgolla. In parallel to it another cascade could be seen plunging down and we named it Wee oya 2 falls.

dawn over Kelani valley

dawn over Kelani valley

the kelani river flows peacefully

the kelani river flows peacefully

the 1111's

the 1111′s

on the road

on the road

a dam of Wee oya

a dam of Wee oya

endless rubber estates

endless rubber estates

Wee Oya ella 1

Wee Oya ella 1

Wee Oya ella 2

Wee Oya ella 2

Just before reaching Malalpola we came across a road side cascade called Malalpola falls where we shot some close ups before heading towards Malalpola junction where Kithul falls could be found. Kithul falls is another road side beauty which has got its name because of the abandoned Kithul trees in the vicinity. From here onwards the houses and the boutiques seemed to be belonging to some other decade from the past. Next road side beauty was Punugala fall which is formed by Anda dola, we enjoyed this beauty from the bridge rather than attempting to get to it by donating some blood to the blood suckers :-P . This waterfall plunges down through a canal in a rock wall in an angular fashion. On the way to Amanawala we did see another cascade plunging along the steep rock on the opposite hill which is called Gorok fall and there was a temple at the base of it. There was a small reservoir across Wee oya close to it which we decided to explore on our way back. Before reaching Olu falls we did come across few road side Cascades where we didn’t forget to photograph.

endless scenery on seeforth rd

endless scenery on seeforth rd

Peella

Peella

 malalpola falls

malalpola falls

Kithul ella

Kithul ella

top of it

top of it

ancient looking

ancient looking

road side antique houses

road side antique houses

Punugala fall(Andadola cascade)

Punugala fall(Andadola cascade)

part of it

part of it

Punugala distant view

Punugala distant view

the temple at the base of goraka ella

the temple at the base of goraka ella

gorak ella

goraka ella

another view

another view

cascade at hagolla upper part

cascade at hagolla upper part

cascade at hagolla

cascade at hagolla

a beauty

a beauty

Close to Amanawala we went across a wooden bridge and suddenly noted that we were crossing Olu ella and again the breaks were put in to action :-D . Olu Ella which is said to be the 5th highest in Sri Lanka has many levels and from the bridge one can easily visualize its upper and middle parts. Since it had rained during the past few days the waterfall was in full flow.  Few locals who passed by advised us not to get down from the bridge, showing us the danger that awaits us. Whenever a vehicle crosses the wooden bridge our legs had a free massage due to the shakiness of the planks. Just passing the bridge there was a foot path towards Wee oya which we took and reached the base of the lower part to get a full view of the waterfall. The slippery rocks made our task very difficult than we expected. Though we had a good view of the cascade from this point it is said that a better view could be gained from the power house on the opposite bank of Wee oya. Just like all other waterfalls we came across up to now Olu ella also terminated in Wee oya which eventually joined Mighty Kelany river. On our way back we did not forget to enjoy a walk along the suspension bridge across Wee oya which we noted previously.

Quote

Olu Falls

Between 15 and 18m wide, and 100m tall, Olu Falls is an impressive sight. it cascades downwards in four streams into a pool at the base known as Olu Dola. The waters then merge with the Wee River, before flowing into the Kelani River, near the Saman Temple at Yatiyantota. The water serves the areas of Mevia and Gilma.

A wooden bridge spans the river and during rainy weather the fall’s spray soaks passing villagers. The local people have noticed that the water volume has started to decrease, though there is still enough to sustain them. The water is also used for several turbines in the area and to irrigate the surrounding paddy fields.

The fall can be found 19km along the road from Yatiyantota town, heading in the direction of Seepotha (Galle District, Yatiyantota PC Amanawela GS area). The Kitulgala rest-house is 34km away.

Olu ella

Olu ella

top most part

top most part

the wooden bridge

the wooden bridge

the riders!

the riders!

a glimpse

a glimpse

full view of Olu fall

full view of Olu fall

lower part

lower part

a swallow

a swallow

next target wewelthalawa

next target wewelthalawa

Wewelthalawa mountain

Wewelthalawa mountain

safety first

safety first

for them its a routine

for them its a routine

At the bridge we did note a mighty mountain and when we inquired about it the locals said it was called Wewethalawa/Wewelthalawa, suddenly I remembered that I have been thinking of getting to the top of it for ages and since there was a road to the top of it we decided to give it a try. On the way back we arrived at Halgolla tea factory where we pumped some air in to Amila’s bike before starting to ascend from that point onwards. The road which branches out from Halgolla tea factory was winding around the mountain and rapidly gaining elevation producing some stunning scenery which is a pleasure to the eyes. After about 7Km’s we reached a significant landmark at the base of the rock called Dripping rock which is a place of worship for the locals. The name has been given to this point because of the continuous drooling of water along the rock for about 100m during the whole year. It is one of those unique places one needs to visit whenever they get a chance. Passing the dripping rock we further ascended uphill through the forest patch of Amanawala reserve and on the way we did note cable carts which once carried tea leaves from Wewelthalawa to Halgolla tea factory and immediately we did stop to have a better look at this masterpiece from the past. After tackling the winding uphill route with many hair pin bends we reached the plateau of Wewethalawa which seemed like a hidden heaven on top of a mountain and the summit of it was seen to be having two transmission towers. From the plateau we had to proceed to the left from the Budhdha statue and the road begun to get bad to worse within no time. The scenery was priceless and it did force us again to have some quick stops. On the way we came across a memorial done in remembrance of the WW2 and we were clueless of its significance.

endless scenery on the way to Wewelthalawa

endless scenery on the way to Wewelthalawa

plenty of u turns

plenty of u turns

approaching the dripping rock

approaching the dripping rock

and it felt like it was raining

and it felt like it was raining

yep it does drip

yep it does drip

continous shower

continuous shower

place of worship

place of worship

through Amanawala reserve

through Amanawala reserve

used long ago

used long ago

suddage weda

suddage weda

the starting point of the cable carts

the starting point of the cable carts

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

scenery from the the plateau at wewethalawa

scenery from the the plateau at wewethalawa

beauty

beauty

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

tea it is

tea it is

towards the summit

towards the summit

 it says sour memories of WW2

it says sour memories of WW2

The road through the forest patch towards the summit is a 4 wheel ride and you really need a 4WD to tackle this road. Our bikes faced many obstacles on the way through this forest patch which was similar to Horton plains. At some places we even had to push our bikes for few meters. The road is in terrible condition and we did suffer the consequences later. After tackling the last 5Km we reached the summit which was covered with mist. After passing the SLBC tower we reached a closed gate towards ITN transmission tower where we had to get special permission to proceed in which we achieved successfully. Unfortunately the mist was not in our favour so it obscured a panoramic view towards Colombo and Kitulgala areas. If you have been to Kitulgala you would have noted Wewelthalawa transmission towers clearly. We were shown a foundation of building from WW2 era, where the British had their military camp and a main communication and observation tower during that period. It was time to leave this summit which was 4200ft in altitude and reach the drier Bulathkohupitiya region. The descend was equally difficult and we did manage to get down with caution, Amila’s bike had already lost some air and we needed to get it fixed ASAP so we had to skip the Observation point at Wewelthalawa Plateau this time. When we reached the Seeforth road both bikes had punctured tubes and that summed up the road condition to Wewelthalawa.

difficult terrain

difficult terrain

SLBC

SLBC

SLBC tower at Wewelthalawa

SLBC tower at Wewelthalawa

a palm tree

a palm tree

its flower

its flower

it was like horton plains

it was like horton plains

misty

misty

life

life

69 harinda posing

harinda posing

ITN Yatiyanthota transmission tower

ITN Yatiyanthota transmission tower

minature habitat

minature habitat

it never cleared off

it never cleared off

remains of the WW2 watch post

remains of the WW2 watch post

remains of the foundation of the British army base during the WW2

remains of the foundation of the British army base during the WW2

the gap we came through

the gap we came through

where we were

where we were

after we went it cleared off a bit

after we went it cleared off a bit

the plateau at wewethalawa

the plateau at wewethalawa

free day is used for collecting wood

free day is used for collecting wood

once served a purpose

once served a purpose

getting gloomy

getting gloomy

its going to pour down

its going to pour down

at Parusella junction

at Parusella junction

road side cascade on parusella bulathkohupitiya rd

road side cascade on parusella bulathkohupitiya rd

After repairing the two bikes of Amila and Harinda we reached Parusella junction and headed towards Bulathkohupitiya Rd. while heading towards Bulathkohupitiya along Ruwanwella rd we noted Punahela falls on the right hand side of the road close Ampagala. Next stop was Bulathkohupitiya junction. After buying some stuff we headed along Dedugala road. Next attraction is Rikili ella which springs down the slope of a hill on the left hand side to end in Ritigaha wahaka oya and you won’t miss this waterfall which has a road side name board same as the next two waterfalls. After passing few more Km’s we reached the board saying Nalagana ella where we proceeded along the foot path which led towards it. This is my second visit to these waterfalls almost after 4 years that is. At Nalagana Ella we came across a couple who was in deep romance and didn’t note us until 5 or 10 minutes passed by. To get a closer view of this beauty I did crawl upon some boulders with some difficulty but at the end the view was ever so rewarding. This was the most beautiful waterfall for me on that day. It was Dancing down just like a Nalagana and it think that name suits her very well. We did have our bread as lunch and headed back to the road in search of the next road side beauty which was Rukmal Ella. Rukmal ella is yet again another road side attraction which one will come across while traveling up to Dedugala.

Quote

Rikili Falls

The source of the 30m fall is the stream flowing from the northern side of the Hunusahaldeniya mountain range (600m). It flows via Ritigaha to the Kelani River. It is 5km from the Dedugala highway, and the nearest town is Kitulgala.

Nalagana Falls

Springing from the Ritigaha Oya reservoir, the Nalangana Falls comprises a number of chutes, each measuring about 40m in height. The fall is situated at Dedugala, 9km east of Bulathkohupitiya. The nearest town is Bulathkohupitiya, and the Kitulgala rest-house is 41km away

Rukmal Falls

This 20m rukmal fall is best viewed from the highway. To reach it from Bulathkohupitiya, travel along the road to the east for 13km. It is 45km from Kitugala rest-house.

Suramba falls(Punahela fall)

Suramba falls(Punahela fall)

close up

close up

a nice shower

a nice shower

its base

its base

Rikili ella

Rikili ella

close up of rikili ella

close up of rikili ella

the cave at its base

the cave at its base

Nalagana falls

Nalagana falls

top of Nalagana fall

top of Nalagana fall

like a veil

like a veil

full view

full view

a cascade close to nalagana falls

a cascade close to nalagana falls

Ritigaha wahaka oya

Ritigaha wahaka oya

interesting mushrooms

interesting mushrooms

hodala (do not eat)

hodala (do not eat)

front view of rukmal ella

front view of rukmal ella

Rukmal fall

Rukmal fall

beautiful

beautiful

After passing Dedugala we proceeded further 5Km to reach Ihala Pelanpitiya “kada mandiya” where we asked directions about a hidden beauty called Diyagirena/ Diyangiri / Devagiri Fall. And to get to it we had to proceed on a newly concreted road and then descend through the tea estate until we reached the base of this 90m tall cascade which was like a creation in heaven. The term “Diya agirena Ella” suits it very well. After snapping around we removed all those leeches that hung on us and proceeded up hill to witness the sunset through the Ihala pelanpitiya gap. According to locals on a clear day when the sun is vanishing off one could easily appreciate the BOC tower and the twin towers of WTC at Colombo but we were not so lucky on that day. It was almost 5pm and we had to rush back towards the main road to end our waterfall hunt with some treasured memories. We somehow reached Avissawella close to 7pm where I said good bye to my friends and headed back to Monaragala.

Quote

This 90m fall was previously known as ‘Diyawegirena Falls’, denoting its perennial flow, but underwent dialectal change to its present form. The plants in the surrounding Dedugala Reserve have valuable medicinal qualities but are being pilfered by unscrupulous thieves who sell them as ornamental plants. Local villagers are calling for urgent action to protect the existing plants and to grow more. The government has already started taking steps towards this. The fall is located at Pallampitiya village, Kegalle District (Kegalle Electorate, Bulathkohupitiya Divisional Secretariat no.131B, Pallampitiya area). It is 96km from Colombo, 24km from Navalapitiya and 3km from Dolosbage. From the Upper Pallampitiya village bus stop, take the road to Kelvin B Colony for 2.5km to find the fall.

gap towards colombo

gap towards colombo

rocks and mud

rocks and clay

glimpse of Devagiri or Diyangiri or Diyaagirena fall

glimpse of Devagiri or Diyangiri or Diyaagirena fall

beautiful Diyaagirena fall

beautiful Diyaagirena fall

lovely

lovely

ihala pelanpitiya gap through wee oya valley

ihala pelanpitiya gap through wee oya valley

A Drive Through Knuckles, Meemure & Rathna Ella

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Year and Month April, 2013 (16th and 17th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 3
Accommodation Camping at meemure
Transport SUV
Activities Waterfalls, driving through one of the most scenic areas of the country & Camping
Weather Excellent
Route
  • Day 1Delgoda –> Belummhara –> Pasyala –> Giriulla –> Kurunegala –> Ibbagamuwa –> Dodangaslanda –> Yatawatta –> Matale –> Kandenuwara –> Kabaragala -> Madulkelle -> Bambarella –> Rangala –> Udispattuwa –> Medamahanuwara –> Hunnasgiriya –> Loolwatta –> Meemure
  • Day 2Meemure –> Hunnasgiriya –> Hasalaka –> Hettipola –> Pallegama –> Ilukkumbura –> Riverston –> Rattota –> Matale –> Katugastota –> Kurunegala –> Giriulla –> Payala –> Belummahara -> Delgoda
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Total distance travelled 627km
  • Had to turn back from Rangala and take the udispattuwa/medamahanuwara road via hunnasgiriya to loolwatta
  • Please bring back everything you took. Leave only footprints, take only photos.
  • Better to carry a stock of water for drinking.
  • Although ‘Navarathne mama’ promised to help us at meemure, he never showed up and eventually was left on our own (we did find one helpful villager) to find a place to camp. This “not so welcome” treatment prompted us to cut short on our trip and return home the very next day.
Author Lahiru
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Another one of those trips hastily arranged after seeing we have an extra couple of days off after the sinhala & tamil new year festivities.
This time our plan was to go on a camping trip to meemure, thereby making use of the tent I bought about 1 ½ years ago but has never been used.
So on the 16th 2 of us left Delgoda at 4am picking up the 3rd member on our way from Dambadeniya. By about 6.30am we were at kurunegala and proceeded towards ibbagamuwa as we intended to take the dodangaslanda – yatawatta road to matale.
The 38km distance from ibbagamuwa to matale was a gradual ascend. The scenery as we gained elevation was breathtaking.

Sun rise on the yatawatta-matale road

Sun rise on the yatawatta-matale road

scenery along yatawatta-matale road

scenery along yatawatta-matale road

scenery along yatawatta-matale road

scenery along yatawatta-matale road

After having breakfast at matale and buying some rations required for our stay we headed along the kandy road where we took a left turn towards the kandenuwara –kabaragala –madulkelle road. The journey was a continuous uphill climb along one of the most scenic roads I’ve travelled. The drive up to Rangala along carpeted tea estates and the views were simply breathtaking.

View towards elkaduwa/kandy from kandenuwara road

View towards elkaduwa/kandy from kandenuwara road

Views along matale-kandenuwara road

Views along matale-kandenuwara road

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Waterfall with little water

Waterfall with little water

Taking a break to enjoy the stunning scenery

Taking a break to enjoy the stunning scenery

Matale town(360m above msl) from a 1000m above msl

Matale town(360m above msl) from a 1000m above msl

Posing for a picture

Posing for a picture

More views

More views

World’s best tea

World’s best tea

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Lunch was from jothi hot pack

Lunch was from jothi hot pack

Unknown waterfall @ madulkelle

Unknown waterfall @ madulkelle

Huluganga Falls

Huluganga Falls

Top part of the falls

Top part of the falls

Bottom part

Bottom part

.

Distant view of jodu ella/ twin falls

Distant view of jodu ella/ twin falls

A close up

A close up

More scenery along the way close to rangala

More scenery along the way close to rangala

Raiding a mynah nest

Raiding a mynah nest

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A waterfall seen close to rangala

A waterfall seen close to rangala

Badly wanted to have dip but time wasn’t on our side..

Badly wanted to have dip but time wasn’t on our side..

On the way to rangala

On the way to rangala

From rangala our intended route was through Thangappuwa to Loolwatte but due to conflicting information (some said the thangappuwa – loolwatte road was damaged by earthslips and was not motorable) given to us by locals we decided against it and turned back towards teldeniya to take the hunnasgiriya – loolwatte road to meemure.

Topmost part of a waterfall seen on the left of the main road @ hunnasgiriya

Topmost part of a waterfall seen on the left of the main road @ hunnasgiriya

Middle part

Middle part

Bottom part

Bottom part

Heading towards loolwatte from hunnasgiriya

Heading towards loolwatte from hunnasgiriya

@ loolwatte

@ loolwatte

Waterfall seen at loolwatte..this can be seen from udu dumbara as well..

Waterfall seen at loolwatte..this can be seen from udu dumbara as well..

Panoramic view from loolwatte

Panoramic view from loolwatte

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@ corbett’s gap

@ corbett’s gap

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Waterfall seen on the way to meemure

Waterfall seen on the way to meemure

It was around 5.30pm when we reached meemure and contacted ‘navarathne mama’ as he had promised us to help find a place for us to set up camp when I contacted him for the first time two days earlier and for the second time a day before. But when we contacted him upon our arrival at meemure he was less willing to come by and told us to ask someone who is around to help us to which we found none. The excitement of our first camping trip was suddenly gone when we felt we were helpless and was in a state of despair. After asking numerous people one person directed us to the road where the famed ‘suriya arana’ film shooting places was located. So finally we headed in that direction with a glimmer of a hope in finding a place to camp. While heading on that road we were relieved to finally find a person to help us. This person showed us the numerous places where the film was shot and also a place to set up camp on top of a rockbed beside the river.
It was already dark when we finished setting up camp. After having a dip in the river for about an hour we prepared our dinner and by about 10.30pm we were off for the night.

Right after setting up tent and a fire..

Right after setting up tent and a fire..

Preparing dinner

Preparing dinner

With the not so fond memories of the previous evening still weighing on our minds we decided to cut short on our trip and leave meemure after breakfast.

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Lakegala bathed in morning sunshine

Lakegala bathed in morning sunshine

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A morning dip

A morning dip

Carrying our stuff back

Carrying our stuff back

Carrying our stuff back

Carrying our stuff back

Leaving meemure

Leaving meemure

On our way back we took the time to visit rathna falls at hasalaka.

First glimpse of rathna falls

First glimpse of rathna falls

Rathna Falls

Rathna Falls

Rathna Falls

Rathna Falls

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.Sunset over yahangala

Sunset over yahangala

We were back home around midnight a bit sad that we had to cut short on our trip. This will be etched in our memories forever as our first camping trip but mostly because of the breathtaking sceneries that we experienced while driving through the knuckles mountain range.

 

One day visit to Medawachchiya

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Year and Month August 2013 (20th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew  3
Accommodation  N/A
Transport Bus, Three wheeler and walking
Activities Archeology and Photography
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Medawachchiya -> Rathmalgahawewa -> Handagala Temple -> Back to Rathmalgahawewa -> Kiralagala (කිරලාගල) a.k.a Weherabandigala(වෙහෙරබැදිගල) in Horowpathana road -> Back to Medawachchiya -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Start the journey as early as possible. Then you can cover some more places.2. Bus service from Medawachchiya to Rathmalgahawewa (රත්මල්ගහවැව) and to Horowpathana is fairly good but fewer buses in the evening for the return journey. There are no buses in poya days from Medawachchiya to Horowpathana.
  • Discuss with one of civil defense officers at Handagala (හදගල) Temple. They will show some hidden places as well. A proper visit will take a half a day.
  • Get the help of care taker of Kiralagala/Weherabandigala archeological site.
  • Better visit at Isinbassagala (ඉසින්බැස්සගල) in early morning or late evening to avoid heat.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This was kind of an accidental visit to archaeological sites in this area as my objective was to conquer the Waddakanda-an isolated mountain range which is situated in between Medawachchiya and Horowpathana (Refer trip report Weddakanda Climb). As we were unable to find a guide to climb Waddakanda, had to visit at these places. I decided to write down them because a lot of travelers are not aware of them.

Handagalakanda/Handagala cave Temple

Handagalakanda is a rock situated in Rathmalgahawewa. It occupies caves and some other ruins belong to Anuradhapura era. On top of Handagala rock you can have a panoramic surrounding view.

Rathmalgahawewa is situated 21km away from Medawachchiya in Horowpathana road. Handagala is situated in about 5km from Rathmalgahawewa. You have to get a three wheeler from Rathmalgahawewa to Handagala.

The height of Handagalakanda temple is about 300feet from surrounding plain and 648ft above mean sea level. They have excavated about 45 drip ledged caves in this area. The name Handagala (meaning moon-rock) may have been coined because of the prominently located circular boulder on the hill crest that could be seen from a considerable distance over the surrounding forest cover resembling the full-moon. Handagalakanda was one of first excavations done by H C P Bell after establishment of archeology department in Sri Lanka in 1890. Dr Senarath Paranawithana had mentioned in his work “inscriptions of Ceylon” published in 1970 reproduced the 30cave inscriptions that have been identified in Handagala. These inscriptions are belonging to different time periods. The information recorded in them are limited to particulars regarding the donation of caves owned by different persons for the benefit of the priesthood as was generally characteristic of inscriptions of that era. Bell’s report for the year 1892 is accompanied by a photograph of a vihara building and a line drawing done to scale by the Survey Department of what was available of a fresco painting on a cave roof at Handagala. The reproduction of the pieces of the painting shows two figures – a male and female. While the male whose face is missing appears to be sturdily built, the portions of the other human figure show a female face, and a pair of graceful hands. A temple drum is also to be prominently seen. The costumes of the two figures as seen from the fresco fragment indicate them to be a pair of dancers. This fresco which appears belong to a later era, may have been one of several that may have covered much of this particular cave roof which is the largest at Handagala.

Summarized and quoted from- amazinglanka.com/heritage/handagala/handagala.php

Entrance of the temple.

Entrance of the temple.

When you climb along stone footsteps, first you will meet an ancient Pohoya House (පොහොය ගෙය) which has been renovated. Behind this building there is a cave which had ancient paintings now we can’t see. Ancient Dewalaya is situated in front of these structures. Close to the Dewalaya a stone inscription can be noticed and it has been documented. Get down by the foot pathway on right hand side of Dewalaya to come across 3-4 drip ledged caves with stone inscriptions.

Ancient Pohoya House with “Seema Malakaya” සීමා මාලකය

Ancient Pohoya House with “Seema Malakaya” සීමා මාලකය

The cave which had ancient paintings

The cave which had ancient paintings

Ancient Dewalaya.

Ancient Dewalaya.

Documented stone inscriptions

Documented stone inscriptions

Above mentioned stone inscription.

Above mentioned stone inscription.

The cave with drip ledge.

The cave with drip ledge.

Stone inscription with Brahami letters

Stone inscription with Brahami letters

Another stone inscription.

Another stone inscription.

The first stupa you will come across close to Dewalaya is a new construction. Ancient image house is situated few steps above this stupa. It has been renovated recently. A “Hulang Kapolla” (හුලo කපොල්ල) can be viewed on right hand side of the image house. Go upwards by passing the image house to reach the summit of this rock.

Ancient image house.

Ancient image house.

“Hulang Kapolla”. White arrow shows the hole through which wind passes.

“Hulang Kapolla”. White arrow shows the hole through which wind passes.

Paintings of the image house.

Paintings of the image house.

The ceiling.

The ceiling.

Footsteps upwards.

Footsteps upwards.

We had a panoramic view on top of the summit. Two stupas can be seen here. Newly made seated Buddha statue adds a beauty to this temple. Waddakanda, Mihinthale and main pagoda’s of Anuradhapura can be viewed from here.

View of Waddakanda from Handagala. Waddakanda is the highest point of this area.

View of Waddakanda from Handagala. Waddakanda is the highest point of this area.

Mihinthale.

Mihinthale.

Nearby another rock temple called “Kuda Dambulu Wehera”-කුඩා දබුලු වෙහෙර.

Nearby another rock temple called “Kuda Dambulu Wehera”-කුඩා දබුලු වෙහෙර.

Newly built stupa on top of Handagala.

Newly built stupa on top of Handagala.

Ancient stupa.

Ancient stupa.

Buddha statue.

Buddha statue.

There is a small foot pathway in between two rocks in front of Dewalaya. It brings you to some other caves and a stupa. These caves are larger than previous ones and have some evidences of wall paintings. Stone inscriptions can be seen there. This stupa is also fairly large and has been preserved well by the archeology department. At the moment it has three basal rings only.

Narrow foot pathway and direction is shown here.

Narrow foot pathway and direction is shown here.

Drip ledge and stone inscriptions.

Drip ledge and stone inscriptions.

Another stone inscription.

Another stone inscription.

Evidences of paintings.

Evidences of paintings.

A Buddha statue has been there.

A Buddha statue has been there.

This must be the largest cave.

This must be the largest cave.

Ancient stupa.

Ancient stupa.

A part of stone pillar...these ruins can be seen around the stupa.

A part of stone pillar…these ruins can be seen around the stupa.

Another ruin.

Another ruin.

ආදා ලකුණ-Evidences of treasurer

ආදා ලකුණ-Evidences of treasurer

Kiralagala/Weherabandigala (කිරලා ගල/වෙහෙරබැදි ගල)

This archaeology site is situated in Medawachchiya-Horowpathana road close to Horowpathana. It’s old name is Weherabandigala and this name is still used in maps as well. But the name used by villagers and archaeology department is Kiralagala.
Kiralagala archaeology site has features of old Buddhist monastery belongs to Anuradhapura era. This site has been well preserved by archaeology department. It occupies ruins of a hospital, an image house, a large pond, a stupa and few residencies of bikku.

Upper part of umbrella stone.

Upper part of umbrella stone.

A moon stone without engravings.

A moon stone without engravings.

The path inside the archeology site.

The path inside the archeology site.

A basement of a structure.

A basement of a structure.

Most probably the basement of a residency of bikku (ආවාස ගෙය)

Most probably the basement of a residency of bikku (ආවාස ගෙය)

“Bodhigaraya” බෝධි ඝරය

“Bodhigaraya” බෝධි ඝරය

Steps to the image house.

Steps to the image house.

Small pond situated close to the image house. Picture was taken 3years ago.

Small pond situated close to the image house. Picture was taken 3years ago.

Ruins of a hospital /”Ganthagaraya” ජන්තාගාරය.

Ruins of a hospital /”Ganthagaraya” ජන්තාගාරය.

Urinal stone.

Urinal stone.

The pond.  This is the most significant structure found in this site. It is a massive construction.

The pond. This is the most significant structure found in this site. It is a massive construction.

When it fills with water. This picture was taken 3years ago.

When it fills with water. This picture was taken 3years ago.

Steps to getting down.

Steps to getting down.

How water came into the pond.

How water came into the pond.

Stone inscription found close to the stupa.

Stone inscription found close to the stupa.

Stupa

Stupa

When you travel from Kiralagala to Rathmalgahawewa you will come across an isolated archaeology site on left hand side. It carries ruin of a stupa situated in a paddy field. According to the care taker of Kiralagala this stupa also belong to Kiralagala site. This area is called Kulumeemakada (කුලුමීමාකඩ). The special feature I have noticed at this stupa is arches on either side of staircase. There is a slab inscription as well.

Kulumeemakada stupa.

Kulumeemakada stupa.

Note the arches on either side of staircase.

Note the arches on either side of staircase.

“Siri Pathul Gala”

“Siri Pathul Gala”

Slab inscription.

Slab inscription.

Content of slab inscription.

Content of slab inscription.

Vevalkatiya (වේවැල්කැටිය) Archeological site.

This site is situated about 1km from the road of Medawachchiya-Horowpathana. It will come across after Rathmalgahawewa when you travel from Horowpathana. It has two pillar inscriptions.

Direction.

Direction.

Pillar inscription 1.

Pillar inscription 1.

Isinbassagala (ඉසින් බැස්ස ගල)-“The rock that saga came from”

This is somewhat popular place situated about 1.4km away from Medawachchiya towards Vawuniya. Although it’s history goes back to Anuradhapura era no much archaeological things to be seen there. It is believed Mahinda Arahath Thero first arrived here before Mihinthale. On top of the rock you can have a beautiful panoramic surrounding view. Great stupa of Anuradhapura and Mihinthale can be viewed from here.

This temple complex was built by King Dewanmpiyathissa (250-210BC) right after introduction of Buddhism. Most of the constructions are seen nowadays belonged to early 20th century.

Towards the top of Isinbassagala.

Towards the top of Isinbassagala.

Arrival of Mihindu Arahath Thero with his followers to Isinbassagala.

Arrival of Mihindu Arahath Thero with his followers to Isinbassagala.

Sacred foot print is the only archeological thing I could notice.

Sacred foot print is the only archeological thing I could notice.

View of Mihinthale.

View of Mihinthale.

Three great stupas of Anuradhapura- Ruwanwelisaya, Jethawanaramaya and Abhayagiriya.

Three great stupas of Anuradhapura- Ruwanwelisaya, Jethawanaramaya and Abhayagiriya.

Isinbassagala new temple.

Isinbassagala new temple.

Newly built stupa. This was built at the place of old temple.

Newly built stupa. This was built at the place of old temple.

Cave temple. This is called “Arahath Guhawa.” අරහත් ගුහාව

Cave temple. This is called “Arahath Guhawa.” අරහත් ගුහාව

Thanks for reading.

Mannar, revisited

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Year and Month October,2013 (18th -20th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 5  (family of three kids – 13,11 & 6)
Accommodation Four Tees Rest, Thoddaveli, Mannar
Transport SUV
Activities Site-seeing
Weather Sunny most of the time, but the rainy season for Mannar just started with Madu and Mannar getting light showers in the evening and at night.
Route Colombo -> Puttlam -> Nochchiyagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Madu -> Mannar and return on Mannar -> Valankai -> Arippu -> Silavathura -> Murunkan -> Oyamaduwa -> Puttlam -> Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  1. It’s better if you can carry a stock of water at least for drinking purposes.
  2. Leave as early as possible to make maximum use of the day as well as to avoid scorching sun.
  3. Road via Oyamaduwa is a treat to drive but take extra care to spare the sun bathing reptiles on the tarmac.
  4. When visiting Adams Bridge make sure to be at the pier as early as possible (at least by 6.30 am) esp. during weekends
Author Nayani
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The long weekend in October was eagerly awaited as a trip to Mannar was planned with family friends. Unfortunately, at the last moment they couldn’t make it, but we decided to keep to our plans though the kids were a little disheartened.

We left home (Nawala) at 5 in the morning and took our first break at the dried out Thabbowa Tank around 8am. We expected some bird activity but guess we were too late for that.

Dried out Thabbowa Tank

Dried out Thabbowa Tank

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We proceeded to Nochchiyagama and refilled our tank. The IOC shed there is the last one with “extra premium” and “extra mile” brands of petrol/diesel. Though there is an IOC shed in Mannar it does not have these.

We drove through the Deyata Kirula Road to Oyamaduwa, which is a treat to drive. But we could not enjoy our drive as there were many katussas and thalagoyas killed on the road. Many were majestically sunbathing on the tarmac without knowing their fate. We had to drive very slow, with extra care avoiding the lizards on the road. We passed that stretch around 9 am and may be they come out for sun bathing. We saw a cobra and had to stop to assist a tortoise to cross the road. There were some crushed tortoises too. This is what happens when we encroach their territory.

“Deyata Kirula Road” through the greenery

“Deyata Kirula Road” through the greenery

Inmates of Oyamaduwa Farm coming out

Inmates of Oyamaduwa Farm coming out

It is 50kms from Nochchiyagama to Thanthirimale and we reached there by 10 a.m. The road from Oyamaduwa to Thanthirimale is not carpeted but is in good shape Though it was a Poya Day it was not crowed as we expected. We were blessed with a gloomy sky, if not it would have been a nightmare to walk on the rock in the hot sun.

Thanthirimale Rock Temple

Thanthirimale Rock Temple

Surrounding ponds

Surrounding ponds

Buddha Statue Carved into the rock

Buddha Statue Carved into the rock

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We entered A14 at Gajasinhapura, only about 8kms from Thanthirimale, and from there onwards the road was a dream.

We took a detour to see “Periyamurippu Irrigation Project” just 1km away from A14. You have to turn inland near Madu Police Road (long before Madu). The water level has reduced to a minimum and the old bridge will be replaced by a new bridge very soon.

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project (Two years ago)

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project (Two years ago)

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Water level reduced to a minimum now

Water level reduced to a minimum now

Upcoming new bridge

Upcoming new bridge

Suspension Bridge

Suspension Bridge

We did not forget to enjoy ourselves on the suspension bridge built nearby. The drastic change we noticed in the environment, apart from the water level, was that normalcy had returned to this area. There was a small kovil built near the bridge and villagers were performing a pooja with a priest. They offered us hot hot “muruthan bath” which we enjoyed welcoming the friendly gesture.

We proceeded towards Madu and the road was in great shape all the way up to Madu. By 11.00 we were in Madu and it was crowded with devotees. The new Madu Railway Station must be bringing these large crowds. Madu too had undergone development during the past two years and one addition was the new cafeteria that has come up near the entrance offering a variety of food including lunch packets. Madu received showers after a long lapse of ten months while we were there. That was the first sign of the onset of the rainy season there.

Madu Shrine at a distance

Madu Shrine at a distance

Inside the Shrine

Inside the Shrine

We left Madu around 12.30 and stooped at the Giant Tank, which was also dried out, for lunch. It was welcoming the see the “Jana Awanhala” operated by the Army has been converted into the “Rice Bowl Restaurant”. They have used natural material from roof to floor including benches, chairs etc. They were very helpful and allowed us to use to place to have our home brought lunch.

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Dried out Giant Tank in the background of the gloomy sky

Dried out Giant Tank in the background of the gloomy sky

Rice Bowl Restaurant

Rice Bowl Restaurant

After a hearty lunch we proceeded towards Mannar. As the sky was getting cloudy, we briefly stopped at the causeway and did not wait long. We witnessed some bird activity, but the migrants are yet to come as the ponds are still dried out.

Causeway framed by clowdy sky

Causeway framed by clowdy sky

Mannar landscape has changed over the past two years, especially with the addition of the new railway line running across. The work is in rapid progress and hopefully will be completed by December. The old Thoddaweli Railway station right in front of 4Ts is no more, but is being replaced with a new one. (Which will soon bring loads of bird watches to Mr.Lawrance! )

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station – two years ago

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station – two years ago

The upcoming station in front of 4Ts

The upcoming station in front of 4Ts

We were warmly welcomed by ever-friendly Mr.Lawrance and 4Ts hasn’t changed much. The new wing has just begun when we visited in 2011. We had booked the large family room with one double and two single beds– the only room with A/C. We relaxed in our room until the harsh Mannar sun go down and left 4Ts around 3.30 to explore the town.

We first visited Thirukketiswaram Kovil, a famous Hindu Kovil, which is just a few kilometers away from A 14 – on the new Poonaryn Road. The lake in front of the Kovil was full of birds and we spent some time enjoying the scene.

The turn off from A14 towards Kovil

The turn off from A14 towards Kovil

Thirukketiswaram Kovil

Thirukketiswaram Kovil

Lake full of birds in front of the Kovil

Lake full of birds in front of the Kovil

We came back to town via new Mannar-Poonaryn Road, but heard that road work has been stopped just a few kms away from the Kovil. We stopped on the way to watch some local boys collecting their daily catch in the shallow lagoon.

Fishing in the lagoon by Mannar-Poonaryn Road

Fishing in the lagoon by Mannar-Poonaryn Road

The trio

The trio

We visited the famous Biobab tree close to the town. The place was crowded with two large bus loads of people. That is one change we witnessed in Mannar after two years. Today there are many local tourists visiting Mannar. May be people have had enough of Jaffna and Mannar must be the next attraction!

Gigantic Biobab Tree and my three dwarfs

Gigantic Biobab Tree and my three dwarfs

The last stop for the day was the old Duch Fort in the heart of the twon. We walked along the thich walls right round the Fort. There were many local tourists roaming around enjoying the scenay from the elevated walls of the Fort. From there we watched the sun go down the causeway painting a myriad of colours in the horizon.

Old Dutch Fort

Old Dutch Fort

A bell tower??

A bell tower??

Note the thick walls

Note the thick walls

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Causeway at a distance

Causeway at a distance

The sun going down

The sun going down

After witnessing the sun going down we had a refresing cup of tea with delicious pol rotti from the Army kade near the Fort. (even the next evening kids insisted going their for the tasty pol rotti.)

We headed back to 4Ts enjoying the twilight scenery.

At 4Ts the power supply was disturbed on and off. Mr. Lawrance said its now a common occurrence in Mannar. May be Mannar was over-crowded with tourists for the long weekend and the power grid was unable to serve the demand. But 4Ts had their generator running providing an uninterrupted service. We had their special string hoppers with cuttle fish curry, paripu and sambol for dinner and settled for an early night.

DAY 2

Our priority No. 01 was a boat trip to Adam’s Bridge. S0, we left for Thalaimannar with the first rays of the sun as we wanted to catch the first boats. But it was one of those overcast mornings after overngith rains and we all douted our luck. We were by the pier by 7.30 and were the first to arrive. The Navy has moved their boat service colse to the light house/pier as the sea is rough around where they operated two years ago.

The boats waiting in the backdrop of a gloomy sky

The boats waiting in the backdrop of a gloomy sky

The Pier

The Pier

The lighthouse

The lighthouse

View from the pier

View from the pier

We got the opportunity to walk along the pier and saw the decaying railway line of yesteryears, while hopefully waiting for the boat service to start.

A page from history

A page from history

The decaying pier

The decaying pier

Decaying….

Decaying….

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The service did not start as scheduled at 7.30 due to overcast skies and the officers were waiting for a green light, communicating with their counterparts on the “sands”. The place was getting crowded with loads of tourist but the gloomy weather cast doubts on everyone’s minds.

Finally our prayers were answered and around 9.30 we were given life jackets and were loaded into a small boat. But the boatmen found it difficult to start the engine in the shallow waters filled with sand and they had to drag it far into the sea to get the boat started. Finally we set off to Adam’s bridge despite the gloomy sky.

Started off against the overcast

Started off against the overcast

Fading landscape

Fading landscape

Approaching the “Sands”

Approaching the “Sands”

The isle is ours

The isle is ours

Patterns of nature

Patterns of nature

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No boundaries…..its all ours

No boundaries…..its all ours

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Colours of “Sands”

Colours of “Sands”

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Fertile ground – a myriad of colours….

Fertile ground – a myriad of colours….

Good bye sands…..

Good bye sands…..

Enjoying the ride back to shore

Enjoying the ride back to shore

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We were back at the pier by 11 and by then there was a large crowd waiting for the boats. We thanked the Navy personnel for bringing us safely back and left for Urumalae.

To get to Urumalee you have to come back to the main road and turn right (towards sea) between the Thalaimannar Police Station and the school. That road takes you to Urumalae.

Towards Urumaalae

Towards Urumaalae

Old lighthouse at Urumalae

Old lighthouse at Urumalae

Closer view of the iron giant

Closer view of the iron giant

From Urumallee you can see a tower in Rameshwaran far far away in the horizon, with your naked eye. We initially planned to have a sea bath at Urumalea but since there were no sea bathers we gave up.

From there we proceeded to see “Adam’s Mausoleum”. To reach the 20 ft long two graves one has to turn left from the Uramalae Road (the turn off is just as you pass the statue shown below). You have to proceed nearly 1km until you come to the small green building behind a clearing where the two graves are housed. We could not gather any information regarding the history or the significance of “Adam’s Mausoleum” as the caretaker was not there nor was there a signboard giving details. But, it seemed that the placed has been turned into a religious site by Muslim devotees. I was later told that there are a few more places in Mannar where you get 20ft long tombs like this.

Statue at the turnoff

Statue at the turnoff

Entrance to the compound

Entrance to the compound

Entrance to the building ….the door is just 4.5ft in height

Entrance to the building ….the door is just 4.5ft in height

The two 20ft long graves

The two 20ft long graves

As there was nothing much to see we were soon on our way and passed Thalimannar Chruch.

Church at Thlaimannar

Church at Thlaimannar

After exploring Thalaimannar, we were back on the tarmac towards Thoddaweli in the hot sun. Somewhere around Pesalai we met this bridal procession crossing the road, may be after the ceremony in the Kovil.

Bridal party crossing the road

Bridal party crossing the road

We walked into the Pesali Fisheries Center just out of curiosity and they had loads of giant crabs and prawns at unbelievable prices. Crabs were just Rs.80 a kilo! Hope the upcoming railway line will help them market their catch.

We had a grand lunch at 4Ts and spent the warm afternoon in the comfort of our room. The evening had us exploring Mannar further, this time along the coastal road. The road in front of 4Ts is in great shape now and it leads you to the coastal road running towards Mannar. The coastal road is gravel but is easily manageable. We saw many bird activities and passed a number of fishing villages on our way to Mannar.

The coastal road

The coastal road

“Manthai Salterns”’ at a distance

“Manthai Salterns”’ at a distance

Majestic Mannar Church

Majestic Mannar Church

An “Education Centre” – a tuition class – along the coastal road

An “Education Centre” – a tuition class – along the coastal road

It was drizzling throughout and we abandoned the idea of going towards Thalladi Railway bridge. We bought Mannar special dried fish and a variety of mangoes from the market and headed towards 4Ts after a cup of tea with pol rotti from the army kiosk near the Fort.

Without turning to 4Ts at Thoddaveli we took the right turn that took us to Erukkalampiddi – a fishing village on a tiny strip of land. It is like an arm stretched out to the sea. When you drive towards the end you can see Mannar causeway at a distance. It was a delightful sight with the sun going down.

Erukkalampiddi at a distance

Erukkalampiddi at a distance

We had rice and curry with crabs for our dinner and there were no power interruptions that night.

DAY 3

After a filling b’fast of dossai and vadai we bid good bye to Mr.Lawrance promising another visit probably by the train. We had earlier planned to use Old Mannar Road via Vilpattu for our return journey but as we experienced rain in Mannar we thought of avoiding it as it would be an unnecessary risk in rainy weather. So to make up for the lost excitement we took the coastal road via Vankalai to Arrippu and joined A14 at Murunkan.

The turn off at Thalladi was closed due to construction work and we proceeded further and took the next turn off to the right. The road was excellent for a few kms and then there were stretches of construction going on giving us a taste of the “Old Mannar Road.”

We reached Arippu after struggling along the road for nearly an hour. “Arippu Fort” though it’s called a “fort” is a single storied building in ruins found within the boundaries of a village. It is supposed to be where Robert Knox was kept in captivity for some time.

We visited Doric House known as “Ali Rani” by the locals next. I felt The Doric has crumbed more to the sea and if restoration work of some kind is not under way it will soon be washed away.

Doric House  at Arippu

Doric House at Arippu

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The Doric Tower

The Doric Tower

We spent some time enjoying the view from Doric and proceeded to Mrunkan by turning inland at Silavathura. The road was in great shape and we joined A14 at about 11.30.

Soon we heard over “breaking news” that the Kala Oya Causeway was flooded over three feet and Puttalam – Mannar Road was closed for traffic. We were more than glad that we did not take the risk of proceeding along that road.

We passed Madu and noticed large crowds at the station waiting for a train. We bought lunch packets from a nearby kiosk – again run by the army and had it in a shady place near a dried out lake on the Oyamaduwa Road.

The return journey was uneventful as we did not do any detours. We wanted to get back early as the kids had to have a good rest to be back at school the next day. We reached home by 6 with our hearts filled with lovely memories of Mannar.

Thanks for reading!

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