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Divided between Two Giants and a Million Petals

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Year and Month 07 & 08 Nov, 2013
Number of Days 1.5 Days
Crew 5 (Sheham, Athula, Kasun, Prasanna and Me)
Accommodation Supipi Guest, Nuwara Eliya (052-2222674, 0772-902287)
Transport By Car
Activities Nelu Flower Hunting, Hiking, Scenic Driving, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwala->Kaduwela->Peradeniya->Nuwara Eliya->Horton Plains->Nuwara Eliya->Walapane->Nuwara Eliya->Piduruthalagala.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Supipi Rest is a very good place to stay. Affordable and they serve meals too.
  • You need prior permission from MoD to visit Piduruthalagala.
  • You’re not supposed to stop and get down during the drive to the summit from the security gate at Piduruthalagala.
  • There are restrictions when taking pics at the summit so check with the Air Force Personnel before you do.
  • It was the season for Nelu Flowers, so if you’re to see them, it might be a bit tricky as they don’t bloom very often. (According to what we heard, it’s between 5-12 years).
  • Hatton-Nuwara Eliya road is still under construction and very difficult to travel. So check the condition before you attempt on that road.
  • Don’t litter or harm the Nature.
  • Carry some water with you.
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Weather is changing. Seems like it’s gonna rain on Saturday heavily.” – Kasun had texted me.
“What to do buddy, we’ll take our chances.” – Replied me with a heavy heart.
“Yeah, still Friday is good. Think of any alternatives for Sat.” – He was really worried.

That’s the conversation Kasun and I had after planning our Nelu Flower hunting trip on 06 Nov. Typically it rains heavily to the upcountry along with Uva and Eastern Provinces but it didn’t scare me enough to postpone or change our plans for the weekend. It was all gang-ho as a result of Nelu Flowers blooming after so many years and everyone was yearning to go see them and we were no different.

So I sat down heavily on my chair and started to write a letter:

At Office
06 Nov 2013

My Dear Nuwara Eliya,

How are you doing? I’m doing great and can’t wait to see you again. I’m sorry it was a very brief visit last month and I couldn’t be with you long enough and hope you weren’t upset that I left very abruptly even without a proper goodbye.

Apparently, you’d been busy since then coz everyone’s talking about your newest creation, the Nelu Flowers. I too want to come and see them and be with you a bit longer too. I’ve been visiting you each year for the last 14 years and it’s gonna be two times in this year then. You know that you’re my favorite no matter what happens, don’t you?

The weather seems to keep us apart with her dark clouds and unending rains threatening to unleash her wrath. My friends are very hesitant to come as a result. Would you be able to chase her away on 08 and 09 Nov, please? You’ve always kept her at bay when I come to you and ask her to stay away from us this time too. Tell her that I promise not to hang around long and she can come back on the 9th afternoon.

I’ll be seeing you on the wee hours of 08th and till then take care.
Yours

It’s not a good idea for you to read my personal letters is it? But now you’ve read it, it doesn’t matter. I had to send this letter coz the rain kept threating to ruin our reunion and I was pretty sure she’d keep those dark clouds away. (Eventually that’s exactly what happened)

Sheham suggested we do the Nelu Flower hunt and I voted with both my feet and Kasun too, amid a very heavy workload, wanted to tag along. Athula, the ever-promising hiker, too joined willingly with Prasanna along with him. We were set for another majestic journey and decided to leave in the night to save us some time. My plan was to visit Horton Plains on 07 and do something else in the evening coz the whole day Saturday was reserved for the 3rd stage of my rail hikes.

Sheham too said that he was long overdue for a rail hike and gladly approved of the plan. However, the ever-changing weather patterns kept us on our toes right along during the planning stage. I wanted to do this no matter the weather and everybody else jumped in willingly coz they all are very seasoned hardcore hikers.

I happened to come by the Supipi Rest on Lakdasun Forums and they gave us a very reasonable rate and made the booking without second thought. On impulse, I suggested Kasun that we go see Kurundu Oya Falls as we failed to see her in the last month’s journey and we had the whole evening for us on the 8th Nov.

Day 01

Having planned everything to the last possible letter, Sheham left Dehiwala around 12.30am and picked Kasun, me, Athula and Prasa on the way and we were soon driving towards Peradeniya. We didn’t wanna take our chances on the Hatton-N’Eliya road due to its bad condition and stuck with the good old Peradeniya-N’Eliya road.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Thotupola Hike
  2. Nelu Flowers
  3. Kande Ela
  4. N’Eliya
  5. Piduruthalagala Peak
  6. Summary of Panos

The moment we passed Gampola, the road got winding like a giant snake and I felt giddy coz I’d had no sleep and neither had Kasun. We stopped around Pussellawa for some fresh air and the sky was cluttered with millions of different-size stars. It was as if a net attached with hundreds of glittering diamonds was draped right across the sky and we were simply fascinated. However the break wouldn’t work and I wanted to throw up very badly and soon it was a contest between me and Kasun.

Finally after all the hustle-bustle we reached N’Eliya around 5.30am and topped up our fuel reserves. Sheham had brought us all breakfast so we didn’t have to stop anywhere else and headed straight towards Horton Plains. We stopped at Pattipola for some coffee and the surrounding was as usual eye-catching. On the way from Pattipola the view kept making us want to stop at every now and then for picture taking and Sheham had a hard time containing us.

Finally we reached the ticket counter around 7.00am and bought our tickets. Passing the gate we reached Thotupola Trail in no time and the whole area was covered in Pink, Purple and White due to various colors of Nelu. We were simply amazed by the number of flowers, must have been about millions of them covering the whole area like a silk cloth draped over the trees. The morning dew added to the beauty of the flowers and they kept making artistic lines along the petals and leaves. What a sight for our strained eyes.

“Apparently there are 30 different kinds of Nelu and 24 of which are endemic to Sri Lanka”

We jumped out and headed towards the summit of Thotupola with an elevation about 200ft over 2km stretch. It was a sight to treasure for the rest of our lives. We were simply speechless and kept walking through dense forest patches till we reached a bit open area and the sight was simply outstanding. So many mountains were visible and Adam’s Peak was standing tall and majestic in the horizon with her distinct shape. Kirigalpoththa and the undocumented Agra-Bopath were standing next to each other.

We could see the Ambewela farm and its windmills almost 20km away. Along the path it was all about Nelu in vivid colors. All of a sudden Sheham and Atha were bending down very inquisitively and to our surprise it turned out to be a heap of freshly unloaded leopard scat. It had so many firs that the Sambar Deers have. Further along we saw hoof marks of Sambar Deers and possibly the Leopard’s too. It looked as if the leopard had been chasing the fellow from the top of the mountain and we saw a few marks where apparently the deer had skidded.

All of a sudden, Prasa was pretty scared. He kept looking back and forth and wondering when the leopard would pounce on him. We reached the first summit of the Thotupola and headed further uphill to the grand summit. There were many flowers waiting to welcome us to this wonderful creation of the Mother Nature. We reached the summit and it had that signature pit with rocks bordering and we could see they had even put up some solar panels for the telecommunication tower at the top.

It was a 360 degree panoramic view and rising sun kept us looking towards the eastern with her fierce rays. We saw the Ohiya temple and the Kovil where they had built when the 18th tunnel had collapsed and couldn’t be repaired. You can read more about it here. We spent about half hour savoring the freshness of the mountain air and gorgeous view and felt very hungry. The food was still in the car waiting for us and we hurried down and reached the road in no time.

Then we took the road further towards the Farr Inn where Thomas Farr had built it in 1900 and the entrances to the Kirigalpoththa and World’s End are located. Along the way just passing Maha Eliya bungalow we came across a Sambar Deer nibbling at the grass. We jumped out and started snapping away. We reached the Farr Inn around 10.00am and laid the mat Sheham had brought with him and spread out our breakfast which is long overdue.

Sliced bread with tempered onions and boiled eggs washed down with fruit juice was just what the doctor ordered. We rested a bit and saw the visitor center too giving out information and have replicas of animals such as leopard, snakes and owl. It was so horrendous to see a bunch of people playing cards inside a van coz there was so much beautiful sceneries to keep you occupied but those guys chose to ignore it. What a pity and a waste of a journey.

Around 10.30am we were back on our way and just passing the Farr Inn, Sheham noticed a Deer far away and wanted to take a pic and see what it really is. To see, it was not just one, but a whole gang of them sitting sunbathing about a km away. We managed to get a decent size pic with our long zoom and left them for it.

Passing Kande Ela, I wanted to get down and take a few pics. The boat service has resumed at Kande Ela and I was horror stricken to see the damage is done by the people around the area. The mountain is being invaded at a rapid rate, clearing and building apparently hotels. The way it goes, they’ll soon put up a hotel at the top of Kande Ela hill. Feeling down we reached the town and went to the hotel.

 

Towards Haggala in the wee hours

Towards Haggala in the wee hours

Windmills at Ambewela dancing in the morning

Windmills at Ambewela dancing in the morning

Getting ready

Getting ready

"Anything to eat?"

“Anything to eat?”

"Please driver uncle, give me a bun"

“Please driver uncle, give me a bun”

Towards Ambewela on the way to Horton Plains

Towards Ambewela on the way to Horton Plains

They are mesmerized

They are mesmerized

One of many wows

One of many wows

Maha Rathmala

Maha Rathmala

Couldn't take our eyes away

Couldn’t take our eyes away

Near the ticket counter

Near the ticket counter

Well done

Well done

The isolated road

The isolated road

Here we are

Here we are

One of a million

One of a million

"Hi there!"

“Hi there!”

Ready to get going

Ready to get going

Making patterns

Making patterns

Blooming like there's no tomorrow

Blooming like there’s no tomorrow

Different varieties of plants

Different varieties of plants

Many different colors too

Many different colors too

Morning dew making it sexy

Morning dew making it sexy

Ravana Ravul collecting and preserving water

Ravana Ravul collecting and preserving water

Shady bit

Shady bit

What color is this?

What color is this?

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

More flowers bordering the path

More flowers bordering the path

Too high

Too high

Bunch of them

Bunch of them

Through the trees

Through the trees

Standing tall

Standing tall

Getting towards open ground

Getting towards open ground

Sheham with his gigantic 50-500mm lens

Sheham with his gigantic 50-500mm lens

Out in the open

Out in the open

Not many like these

Not many like these

Everywhere is like this

Everywhere is like this

Royal blue

Royal blue

Like snow flakes

Like snow flakes

Path is snowed with flowers

Path is snowed with flowers

Guardian of the flowers?

Guardian of the flowers?

Faraway mountains looking at us

Faraway mountains looking at us

The view is never ending

The view is never ending

Different angle

Different angle

Couldn't get enough of this

Couldn’t get enough of this

Nicely done

Nicely done

The biggest beard?

The biggest beard?

Another different one

Another different one

Tiny fella

Tiny fella

According to Kasun, the Dhal Tree

According to Kasun, the Dhal Tree

Just disgorged?

Just disgorged?

Sight to treasure

Sight to treasure

Holding onto the droplets

Holding onto the droplets

The smile says it all

The smile says it all

Bowitiya plant turned out to be the Dhal tree

Bowitiya plant turned out to be the Dhal tree

The Adam's peak in the middle

The Adam’s peak in the middle

Another kind of orchid

Another kind of orchid

Done the preliminary work

Done the preliminary work

Feel like kissing them all

Feel like kissing them all

Many more

Many more

Where the Sambar deer apparently skidded

Where the Sambar deer apparently skidded

Top of the tree with loving red

Top of the tree with loving red

Lone tree

Lone tree

The clouds kept disappearing

The clouds kept disappearing

An old pile

An old pile

Can't get over this

Can’t get over this

Camouflage

Camouflage

Brightening our day

Brightening our day

"Hey, are you stuck up there?"

“Hey, are you stuck up there?”

"No silly, I'm having my breakfast"

“No silly, I’m having my breakfast”

Searching for more

Searching for more

The solar panels, we cleaned the plates brushing the leaves and flowers away

The solar panels, we cleaned the plates brushing the leaves and flowers away

Lone comms towers

Lone comms towers

The path towards World's end

The path towards World’s end

The Famous Five at the summit

The Famous Five at the summit

No idea what this is

No idea what this is

Holding on to the water

Holding on to the water

A bee?

A bee?

Cluster of Bowitiya

Cluster of Bowitiya

Another bee lost among the flowers

Another bee lost among the flowers

Almost stepped on the fellow

Almost stepped on the fellow

Time to say bye

Time to say bye

Atha learning to walk on his all fours

Atha learning to walk on his all fours

Kirigalpoththa and Agra-Bopath

Kirigalpoththa and Agra-Bopath

Endless plains

Endless plains

The road to the infinity

The road to the infinity

Maha Eliya Bungalow

Maha Eliya Bungalow

Posing for the pics

Posing for the pics

"Enough of posing, I'm hungry"

“Enough of posing, I’m hungry”

"Just go away, will you?"

“Just go away, will you?”

I simply love the blue of the sky

I simply love the blue of the sky

The Farr Inn

The Farr Inn

Where we had our breakfast

Where we had our breakfast

Hopefully you can get an idea

Hopefully you can get an idea

The Farr Inn

The Farr Inn

Tomas Farr, 1900

Tomas Farr, 1900

The replica of the trails

The replica of the trails

The map in details

The map in details

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Hambawa

Hambawa

Atu Bakamuna

Atu Bakamuna

Running freely

Running freely

Sambar deers' resting place

Sambar deers’ resting place

The four having fresh milk

The four having fresh milk

Lovely

Lovely

Ambewela farm

Ambewela farm

Kande Ela

Kande Ela

The hill being invaded

The hill being invaded

Those cables are always destroying good pics

Those cables are always destroying good pics

The water gets down

The water gets down

Kissable

Kissable

Macro

Macro

Not missing this one

Not missing this one

The next in line of the agenda was Kurundu Oya falls but it turned out to be a wasted journey and we were very much misled by the villagers and tuk-tuk drivers at Walapane. We left N’Eliya around 1.30pm and didn’t wanna visit Piduruthalagala coz the mist and clouds might obscure our view. Took the Ragala road which is under construction and in a very bad shape. We were thankful to the AC in the car coz we could keep the shutters closed without inhaling all the dust and poisonous smoke belching from the laboring vehicles.

Having reached Walapane around 3.00pm, we decided to ask the way from villagers to be on the safe side. Niroshan had done this before and unfortunately we couldn’t figure out the path that easily. The villagers kept giving us different directions and we went all around without success and eventually went to the Walapane town to get the help from tuk-tuk drivers but they were very unhelpful and we decided to abandon it and got back coz it’s a tedious task to drive on that road in the dark.

We should’ve taken the path through the entrance to the peace pagoda but we tried to go as far as in our car coz it was evening and didn’t wanna have to walk till the dark. So if you’re attempting this, do read Niroshan’s report and get an idea and we should’ve done the same but the luck wasn’t with us that time. Came back to N’Eliya around 5.30pm and were feeling ravenous coz we had no lunch.

There was a nice place in front of the Gregory Lake Park and we had a sumptuous meal and decided to take a walk in the dusk but the rain drops started coming down reminding us to get back to the hotel and turn in early as we had a very long day ahead the following day. We came to the hotel and embraced the sleeping beauty till morning without batting an eyelid.

 

Getting towards Walapane

Getting towards Walapane

Towards Randenigala

Towards Randenigala

Randenigala up close

Randenigala up close

Helmalu system

Helmalu system

We should've gone up the steps

We should’ve gone up the steps

Gigantic rock boulders

Gigantic rock boulders

The path we were shown

The path we were shown

Savoring the evening snack

Savoring the evening snack

Nice landscapes but where's the falls?

Nice landscapes but where’s the falls?

Rocks and rocks

Rocks and rocks

It turned out to be a wild goose chase

It turned out to be a wild goose chase

Evening sun on the Magastota

Evening sun on the Magastota

Towards Kikiliyamana

Towards Kikiliyamana

Piduruthalagala is covered in mist

Piduruthalagala is covered in mist

Gigantic cloud hovering above the lake

Gigantic cloud hovering above the lake

Flowers, the theme of the day

Flowers, the theme of the day

What a freedom

What a freedom

Showing off his skills

Showing off his skills

Not giving up

Not giving up

Wolfed down

Wolfed down

What a place to be one's house

What a place to be one’s house

Day 02 – Piduruthalagala

The morning brought with her so much promise and there wasn’t even a hint of mist and it was the perfect morning to visit the top of Sri Lanka and get a view all around. We woke up around 5.30am and were ready to leave by 6.00am and drove up to the security gate at the Piduruthalagala. We were waved away having checked our permission and there were 6km to go till we reached the summit.

The view sent us crazy and we had to bite our camera straps to keep us from getting down and walk. It’s important that you abide by the rules stipulated and not get down. There’s the threat of the leopard too and the soldier who showed us around told us that he’d once seen a leopard so big and he got very scared and rode the bike till the summit without even looking back.

Virtually all the mountains of SL were visible and the Mother Nature kept all the obstacles away from us and we must’ve got the best view one can imagine. We reached the summit well before 7.00am and were warmly greeted by the Air Force personnel. The officer who introduced himself was one of the most professional soldiers I’ve ever seen.

We toured all around and took pics. We reached the summit point and it was an unforgettable experience one could have in their entire life time. We felt honored and privileged to be there at the summit embracing the surroundings. No one felt like going any time soon. However, we had our rail hike to do so with so much hesitation, we bid our farewell to the friendly AF soldiers and Army ones too. Leaving Piduruthalagala was not at all easy as we felt as if we were dragged back towards us by some magnetic force. Let me tell you this, none of the pics in this report or in any other report for that matter, will tell you the true story. You gotta see them with your own eyes and feel it.

Ok folks, that is the story of the Two Giants and the Million Petals. Will soon bring you the tale of our Rail hike. This was one of the most memorable journeys I’d ever had and will treasure it deep down my heart forever. Beloved N’Eliya kept us safe and free from rain as usual listening to my humble request.

Take care and do check the pics, specially the summary of Panos.

 

The best morning

The best morning

Dew making all kinds of arts

Dew making all kinds of arts

Rose buds are simply making me crazy

Rose buds are simply making me crazy

Full of dew

Full of dew

Kissable red

Kissable red

Simply amazing

Simply amazing

Can't leave you

Can’t leave you

Kikiliyamana

Kikiliyamana

Our destination

Our destination

 

Take the left from here

Take the left from here

The 3rd Singha Regiment is protecting the place

The 3rd Singha Regiment is protecting the place

Do adhere to these

Do adhere to these

The forest beyond

The forest beyond

The acting guard dogs at the gate

The acting guard dogs at the gate

I'm not leaving these alone

I’m not leaving these alone

Sign on the road, not a bad attempt though

Sign on the road, not a bad attempt though

I kept biting down my camera strap

I kept biting down my camera strap

Point and shoot

Point and shoot

2km more to go

2km more to go

Finally we're here

Finally we’re here

Endless mountains and the view was superb

Endless mountains and the view was superb

Sri Pada up close

Sri Pada up close

Comms towers all around

Comms towers all around

Gotta get close and read

Gotta get close and read

Built in 1890

Built in 1890

Look at those happy faces, they tell a story of their own

Look at those happy faces, they tell a story of their own

Salutation for the heroic soldiers

Salutation for the heroic soldiers

Felt honored to be there

Felt honored to be there

The clouds were below us

The clouds were below us

Flowers everywhere

Flowers everywhere

Maha rathmal too

Maha rathmal too

SLRC tower

SLRC tower

Small temple too on the top

Small temple too on the top

The sun is up and shining

The sun is up and shining

Clouds

Clouds

It says something

It says something

The mess of the AF personnel

The mess of the AF personnel

Their relaxing place

Their relaxing place

The team going around

The team going around

Can't leave this place

Can’t leave this place

The village at the highest elevation, Shanthipura

The village at the highest elevation, Shanthipura

We met a friend

We met a friend

Having bread biscuits

Having bread biscuits

"Good morning buddy!"

“Good morning buddy!”

An airliner at 30,000 ft

An airliner at 30,000 ft

Summary of Panos…

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 11

Pano 12

Pano 12

Pano 13

Pano 13

Pano 14

Pano 14

Pano 15

Pano 15

Pano 16

Pano 16


Emerging city – Hambanthota and surrounding historical places

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Year and Month September, 2013 (11th and 12th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew Two
Accommodation One of my friend’s place at Tissa
Transport From Colombo to Hambanthota by busThen by a  motor bike
Activities Sightseeing, Archeology and Photography
Weather Intermittent showers
Route Colombo -> Galle -> Hambanthota -> Tissamaharama -> Sithulpawwa -> Back to Hambanthota -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Better have your own vehicle as some places are situated far away from main city. But most of these places can be covered by public transport system.2. Road conditions are excellent in most of the time.3. To visit at Hambanthota wind mills you need prior permission from Ceylon Electricity Board (CEB). I couldn’t get it. But I could see it well from outside the gate.
  • You need permission to watch Hambanthota Lanka Salt plant. As my friend works there I could easily visit there.
  • At some places they don’t allow to get photographs. Either we have to get prior permission or give some money to the caretaker to click there. In addition you can capture it secretly. I don’t know what is the reason to not to get photographs at archeological places.
  • There are number of places to provide accommodation in Hambanthota and Tissamaharama.
  • Better visit at Sithulpawwa in early morning to avoid heat and it can be crowded with pilgrims. Then you can visit at other archeology places on your way to Hambanthota leisurely.
  •  Special thanks to my friend Niroshan Warnathilaka who made my visit to Hambanthota is successful.
  •  Thanks for Priyanjana. Your telephone conversation was useful for me.
Related Resources
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

History of Hambanthota (හම්බන්තොට)

When the Kingdom of Ruhuna was established it received many travellers and traders from Siam, China and Indonesia who sought anchorage in the natural harbor at Godawaya, Ambalantota. The ships or large boats these traders travelled in were called “Sampans” and “thota” means port or anchorage so the port where sampans anchor came to be known as “Sampanthota” (which is now known as Godawaya). After some time the area became to be called “Hambanthota”.

Hambanthota District is part of the traditional south known as Ruhuna. In ancient times this region, especially Hambanthota and the neighboring areas was the centre of a flourishing civilization. Historical evidence reveals that the region in that era was blessed with fertile fields and a stupendous irrigation network. Hambanthota was known by many names ‘Mahagama’, ‘Ruhuna’ and ‘Dolos dahas rata’.

After a personal dispute with his brother, King Devanampiyatissa of Anuradhapura, King Mahanaga established the Kingdom of Ruhuna in the south of the island. This region played a vital role in building the nation as well as nurturing the Sri Lankan Buddhist culture. Close to Hambanthota, the large temple of Tissamaharama was built to house a sacred tooth relic.
(Source – en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hambantota )

Hambanthota is being rapidly developed during last few years. Hambanthota new port, Mattala (මත්තල) international air port and international conference center are newly added parts to this city.

Tourist attractions of Hambanthota.

Martello tower and old light house.

This is situated within the Hambanthota city. You have to go along the Kachcheri (කච්චේරි) road to reach both structures. Both structures are situated close each other.

Martello tower
This tower was built by the British military shortly after defeating the Dutch in Ceylon, end of 18th century. The builder was Captain Goper around the years of 1801 and 1803. It was built on the tip of rocky mountain close to the lighthouse. There is a panoramic view of Hambanthota town and sea on top of this tower. Later it was a part of Hambanthota Kachcheri where the land registry branch was placed. Former tower was restored in 1999 and fisheries museum was there. Now it has been renovated by archeology department and awaiting for opening.

The tower is 25feet in height and 40 feet in diameter.

Martello towers are small defensive forts that were built across the British Empire during the 19th century. They stand up to 40 feet (12m) high with two floors and typically had a garrison of one officer and 15-25 men. Their round structure and thick walls of solid masonary made them resistant to cannon fire, while their height made them an ideal platform for a single heavy artillery piece, mounted on the flat roof and able to traverse, and hence fire over, a complete 360 circle.
(Source-en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martello tower – 177kWikipedia)

Martello tower

Martello tower

On top of Martello tower

On top of Martello tower

View of Magampura Mahinda Rajapaksha Port (මාගම්පුර මහින්ද රාජපක්ෂ වරාය)

View of Magampura Mahinda Rajapaksha Port (මාගම්පුර මහින්ද රාජපක්ෂ වරාය)

Staircase to go down

Staircase to go down

Ground floor with rooms – They said photography of the inside of tower is not allowed till it’s reopening.

Ground floor with rooms – They said photography of the inside of tower is not allowed till it’s reopening.

Old light house
This light house is not functioning at the moment.

Old light house of Hambanthota

Old light house of Hambanthota

Lamp of the light house

Lamp of the light house

Then we turned back and stepped towards the old quarters used by British civil worker and famous author Leonard Wolf. Then we took the road on right hand side when just pass the quarters. It went to a circuit bungalow and we entered the beach through circuit bungalow gate. Hambanthota gallows can be seen there.

The quarters used by Leonard Wolf. Renovated and awaiting for reopening as presidential house of Hambanthota.

The quarters used by Leonard Wolf. Renovated and awaiting for reopening as presidential house of Hambanthota.

Hambanthota Gallows
This gallows was used during British colonial period for hanging people. It’s height was around 30feet. At the moment we can see only a part of this gallows. British rulers used this gallows to hang rebellions of 1818 rebellion. Leonard Woolf has watched this death penalty through the window of his house.

Gallows distance view

Gallows distance view

Hambanthota beach-Gloomy due to rainy weather.

Hambanthota beach-Gloomy due to rainy weather.

Hambanthota Gallows.

Hambanthota Gallows.

Hambanthota beach

Hambanthota beach

Catholic cemetery-Hambanthota
It is situated few meters from Hambanthota main bus stand towards Amablanthota (අම්බලන්තොට). Mr. H. E. Engelbrecht’s tomb stone is situated here. Most of the time it’s gate is closed and have to get the key from Catholic Church. But this tomb stone can be seen even at the entrance.

Tomb stone of Mr. H.E. Engelbrecht

Tomb stone of Mr. H.E. Engelbrecht

Mr. H.E.Engelbrecht was happened to be a Boer POW who was brought to Sri Lanka in 31st of May 1902. Later he became the Game sanctuary keeper of Yala National Park.

Hambanthota fish harbor
This can be seen from the main bus stand. This fish harbor was built recently and consider as an unsuccessful fishing harbor due to collection of sand there.

Hambanthota Fish harbor

Hambanthota Fish harbor

The entrance for boats

The entrance for boats

Fishing boats

Fishing boats

Andare’s Tomb (අන්දරේගේ සොහොන)

The road which brings you to Andare’s Tomb is situated in Hambanthota-Thissa road at Udamalala (උඩමළල) junction. You have to take the left hand side road from Udamalala junction where Andare’s statue is placed. After travelling about 1.5-2km in this road we came across the place where Andare was dead on his way to home.

Andare's statue at Udamalala junction

Andare’s statue at Udamalala junction

Andare's tomb

Andare’s tomb

The last poem Andare has sung before his death.

The last poem Andare has sung before his death.

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Hambanthota Lanka Salt plant and factory.
I was lucky enough to visit at factory of Lanka salt production. It is situated in Thissa-Katharagama road from Hambanthota.

Ralabadana (රළබදන) - Sea water is pumped from this bay towards salt plant. In old days sea water currents were used instead of pump

Ralabadana (රළබදන) – Sea water is pumped from this bay towards salt plant. In old days sea water currents were used instead of pump

How they send sea water for salt production by pumping.

How they send sea water for salt production by pumping.

Salt plant

Salt plant

Lanka salt factory.

Lanka salt factory.

It is a long process to produce salt what we eat from raw salt. Although my friend described it I didn’t need to memorize it.

Production of salt.

Production of salt.

Washing of salt is a main part.

Washing of salt is a main part.

Bulks of salt.

Bulks of salt.

Yahangala (යහන්ගල) and Bandagiriya (බදගිරිය) archeological sites.
These two archeological sites are situated along the road towards Bandagiriya from Pallemalala (පල්ලේමළල) junction in Hambanthota-Thissa road. First you will come across Yahangala in 3-4kms and then Bandagiriya in 9kms.

Yahangala archeological site
This is considered as a Buddhist hermitage belongs to Anuradhapura period. It has two caves, two stupas, ponds and ruins of some other buildings. Two pagodas are situated close each other. This is an important character of this place.

Climbing Yahangala rock

Climbing Yahangala rock

Twin pagodas

Twin pagodas

Stupa 1

Stupa 1

Stupa 2

Stupa 2

Ruins of a shrine house

Ruins of a shrine house

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Cave 1

Cave 1

Cave 2

Cave 2

The pond

The pond

View of Bandagiriya from Yahangala

View of Bandagiriya from Yahangala

Bandagiriya archeological site
This also considered as an ancient Buddhist hermitage belongs to Anuradhapura period. It has two rocks. Two pagodas can be seen on one rock-similar to Yahangala. New temple is situated at the base of the rock. You can have a nice panoramic view on top of Bandagiriya rock.

Heading to Bandagiriya rock

Heading to Bandagiriya rock

Details of stone inscription

Details of stone inscription

Stone inscription is protected

Stone inscription is protected

Twin Pagodas

Twin Pagodas

Steps to new stupa

Steps to new stupa

Other rock....Buddha statue is situated here

Other rock….Buddha statue is situated here

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Bandagiriya Lake

Bandagiriya Lake

Water purification project at Bandagiriya

Water purification project at Bandagiriya

Mountains at Katharagama side

Mountains at Katharagama side

View of Yahangala from Bandagiriya

View of Yahangala from Bandagiriya

Mattala air port is shown in white arrow and red arrow indicates Sooriyawewa International cricket ground.

Mattala air port is shown in white arrow and red arrow indicates Sooriyawewa International cricket ground.

Bird parade at Bandagiriya Lake

Bird parade at Bandagiriya Lake

Hambanthota wind mills
This wind mill is situated in pool tank road from Hambanthota. It is the first wind farm of Sri Lanka.It has 5 turbines and total power generates is 3MW. It belongs to Central Electricity Board. (CEB)

Four out of five.....

Four out of five…..

Full height of the wind mill

Full height of the wind mill

Closer view

Closer view

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Ranminithenna Tele Cinema Village (රන්මිනිතැන්න ටෙලි සිනමා ගම්මානය)

Ranminithenna Mahinda Rajapaksha Tele Cinema village was opened on 2010 March. It is the only cinema village located in Sri Lanka provides location for films. Then it has a modern studio and accommodation for actress and production staff. It expands over 230acres.
Tele cinema village is situated in Tissamaharama-Katharagama road.
It is opened from 9am to 5pm daily for public. Photography within the village is not allowed as shooting of an Indian film is going on these days. But somehow I managed it.

Appearance of old Bombay city for the Indian film.

Appearance of old Bombay city for the Indian film.

They only build outer construction.

They only build outer construction.

Another city.

Another city.

How they build using hardboards.

How they build using hardboards.

Some buildings don't carry roofs.

Some buildings don’t carry roofs.

Massive constructions for new Bombay city.

Massive constructions for new Bombay city.

The lake.

The lake.

The tele drama called Korale Mahaththaya (කෝරලේ මහත්තයා) was done here.

The tele drama called Korale Mahaththaya (කෝරලේ මහත්තයා) was done here.

Few boutiques of the village.

Few boutiques of the village.

Day 2 – Archeological visit to and Sithulpawwa (සිතුල්පව්ව) and Tissamaharama (තිස්සමහාරාම)

Sithulpawwa (සිතුල්පව්ව)
Sithulpawwa is situated in Yala national park. We went to Sithulpawwa from Tissamaharama (24km travelling) and this road goes through the park. It is opened for travelling from 6am to 5pm only.

This Buddhist hermitage belongs to 2nd century. The name Sithulpawwa is derived from ‘Cittalapabbata’- ‘the hill of the quiet mind’. It is said in the 1st century AD as many as 12,000 Arahants lived here.

Two main rocks at Sithulpawwa are called “Maha Sithulpawwa”-400feet high and “Kuda Sithulpawwa”. On top of “Maha Sithulpawwa” (මහසිතුල්පව්ව) you can see Pagodas and ancient Bo tree. Once you get down from Maha Sithulpawwa you can visit at “Dalada Madura” (දළදා මැදුර), old cave temple and ruins of Bodhigaraya and Patimagaraya (ප්‍රතිමාඝරය). In between Maha Sithulpawwa and Kuda Sithulpawwa (කුඩා සිතුල්පව්ව) there is a lake called “Dakshinathissa Lake” (දක්ශිණතිස්ස වැව).
The surrounding view from both Maha Sithulpawwa and Kuda Sithulpawwa is fascinating.

Places you can see and visit at Sithulpawwa.

Places you can see and visit at Sithulpawwa.

Plan of Sithulpawwa.

Plan of Sithulpawwa.

“Galgeya’’ගල්ගෙය

“Galgeya’’ගල්ගෙය

Maha Sithulpawwa main Stupa. Below this, there are three stupa. This was built by King Kawanthissa (කාවන්තිස්ස රජතුමා) (100-140AD).

Maha Sithulpawwa main Stupa. Below this, there are three stupa. This was built by King Kawanthissa (කාවන්තිස්ස රජතුමා) (100-140AD).

View of Yala Park from Maha Sithulpawwa.

View of Yala Park from Maha Sithulpawwa.

One of accessory Stupa.

One of accessory Stupa.

View of elephant rock from Maha Sithulpawwa.

View of elephant rock from Maha Sithulpawwa.

Ruins of ancient image house/Dalada Madura.

Ruins of ancient image house/Dalada Madura.

Contents of Rock inscription.

Contents of Rock inscription.

Ancient cave temple. 67feet high and 30feet long.

Ancient cave temple. 67feet high and 30feet long.

Buddha statues found in the cave temple.

Buddha statues found in the cave temple.

Below the drip ledge some marks of ancient paintings can be seen. Those are belonging to Anuradhapura period.

Below the drip ledge some marks of ancient paintings can be seen. Those are belonging to Anuradhapura period.

Bodhisathwa statue and statue of a king.

Bodhisathwa statue and statue of a king.

“Siripathul stone” සිරිපතුල් ගල .

“Siripathul stone” සිරිපතුල් ගල .

View of Maha Sithulpawwa.

View of Maha Sithulpawwa.

Information of Patimagaraya.

Information of Patimagaraya.

Steps to Patimagaraya.

Steps to Patimagaraya.

Ancient Bodhigaraya.

Ancient Bodhigaraya.

Ananda Bodhiya (ආන්නද බෝධිය). A branch of Ananda Bodhiya in India.

Ananda Bodhiya (ආන්නද බෝධිය). A branch of Ananda Bodhiya in India.

Dakshinathissa Lake (දක්ශිණතිස්ස වැව).

Dakshinathissa Lake (දක්ශිණතිස්ස වැව).

We walked to Kuda Sithulpawwa from Dakshinathissa Lake by new pathway and came down by old pathway

Steps to Kuda Sithulpawwa-new pathway.

Steps to Kuda Sithulpawwa-new pathway.

Twin ponds.

Twin ponds.

Kuti of meditating sermons.

Kuti of meditating sermons.

Kuda Sithulpawwa stupa.

Kuda Sithulpawwa stupa.

Umbrella stone.

Umbrella stone.

“Kasina Mandala” කසින මණ්ඩල

“Kasina Mandala” කසින මණ්ඩල

Cave

Cave

View of Maha Sithulpawwa and accessory stupa from Kuda Sithulpawwa.

View of Maha Sithulpawwa and accessory stupa from Kuda Sithulpawwa.

View from Kuda Sithulpawwa.

View from Kuda Sithulpawwa.

On our way back through Yala.

On our way back through Yala.

Yala Magul Maha Wiharaya (යාල මගුල් මහා විහාරය)
This is considered as the place where royal wedding occurred between King Kawanthissa (කාවන්තිස්ස රජතුමා) and Princess Wihara Maha Dewi (විහාරමහා දේවිය). (There is another place at Lahugala called Magul Maha Wiharaya.) This will come across on the way to Sithulpawwa.
It has newly built stupa on old one and scattered ruins. There are few caves and one of them was converted into an image house. Literature says there are caves with sketches of pre historical era. But I couldn’t find them.

Moonstone-No engravings.

Moonstone-No engravings.

Stupa

Stupa

Newly built Buddha statue on the rock.

Newly built Buddha statue on the rock.

Scattered ruins.

Scattered ruins.

Main cave temple.

Main cave temple.

Reclined Buddha statue found in the cave.

Reclined Buddha statue found in the cave.

Back

Back

Sandagiriya (සදගිරිය) Archeology site
Sandagiriya stupa and archeology site is situated just behind the Tissamaharama stupa. This stupa was built by king Mahanaga (මහානාග රජතුමා) (First King of Ruhuna sub kingdom). It was renovated recently. The model of old stupa can be seen on a side of main Stupa.
Ruins of a “Bodhigaraya” (බෝධිඝරය) can be seen in front of the Stupa. On right side of main stupa they have excavated ruins of a “Janthagraya” (ජන්ථාඝරය) (hospital). There is a small road on right hand side of the main stupa and it will bring you to ruins of an image house and a pillar inscription.

Sandagiriya stupa and it's model of an old form.  Note the umbrella stone found on top of the model, but not seen in actual one.

Sandagiriya stupa and it’s model of an old form. Note the umbrella stone found on top of the model, but not seen in actual one.

Ruins of umbrella stones can be seen around the main stupa.

Ruins of umbrella stones can be seen around the main stupa.

Ruins are preserved well.

Ruins are preserved well.

Entering to the Stupa.

Entering to the Stupa.

Ruins of “Janthagaraya”.

Ruins of “Janthagaraya”.

Ruins of the image house.

Ruins of the image house.

Guard stone (මුරගල) of the image house.

Guard stone (මුරගල) of the image house.

Pillar inscription ( ටැම් ලිපිය)

Pillar inscription ( ටැම් ලිපිය)

Tissamaharama Stupa (තිස්සමහාරාම ස්තූපය)

Tissamaharama Stupa was built by King Kawanthissa and it was enlarged by King Illanaga (ඉලනාග රජතුමා). This is the most famous and largest Stupa in Southern province. It has a height of 156ft and circumference of 550ft. It has the frontal bone of Lord Buddha-“Lalata dhathuwa” (ලලාට ධාතුව).
Only few ruins can be seen around the stupa.”Kanda Oruwa” (කැද ඔරුව) takes a special place from them.

Tissamaharama Stupa.

Tissamaharama Stupa.

“Kanda Oruwa” (කැද ඔරුව)

“Kanda Oruwa” (කැද ඔරුව)

Remaining ruins.

Remaining ruins.

Another view of Stupa.

Another view of Stupa.

Tisa Wewa (තිසා වැව).

Tisa Wewa (තිසා වැව).

Akurugoda pillar inscription (අකුරුගොඩ ටැම් ලිපිය)
This is a 30feet high pillar inscription contained Brahami script belonged to 2nd BC. There are different thoughts of content of this inscription among archeologists. When you go towards Katharagama from Tissamaharama on Thissa lake bunt you will come across a road in right hand side just after the road towards Tissamaharama stupa. Then you have to travel about 500m along the road to reach there.

Akurugoda pillar inscription-found as broken in two pieces.

Akurugoda pillar inscription-found as broken in two pieces.

Closer view of the pillar.

Closer view of the pillar.

There is another well preserved archeology site in middle of Tissamaharama town. It is situated in front of Tissamaharama pradeshiya sabhawa (තිස්සමහාරාම ප්‍රාදේශීය සභාව).

It is bit surprise to see an archeology site in middle of a town. As gate was closed it was captured from outside.

It is bit surprise to see an archeology site in middle of a town. As gate was closed it was captured from outside.

Yatala stupa (යටාල වෙහෙර) and archeology museum.

Yatala stupa and archeology museum will come across on your way from Tissamaharama to Debarawewa (දෙබරවැව) in right hand side.

This stupa is believed to be built by King Mahanaga in the 3rd century BC on the ground which his queen delivered a son. This stupa has been identified as Mani Chethiya and Yattalaya in various historical documents.
Mahanaga is a brother of King Dewanampiyathissa (250-210 BC). History states that that when Mahanaga was inspecting the construction of Walas Reservoir (වලස් වැව), the queen of Dewanampiyathissa send him a bowl of Mangos with the top most one poisoned. Her intention was to kill Mahanaga to ensure the throne to her son after Devanampiyathissa. At that time the son was with his uncle at the tank and child ate the poisoned mango and died on the spot. Fearing reprisal he took his pregnant wife and escaped to Ruhuna where he built up his own regional kingdom surrounding Magama area.
It is not known what was enshrined in this stupa but a large number of relic caskets have been discovered in the stupa.
This stupa was completely restored and a small opening has been left to observe the different phases of construction. The restoration work of the Yatala Stupa commenced in 1883 AD. It took over a century to complete the restoration.

(Source – amazinglanka.com/heritage/yatala/yatala.php)

Yatala stupa and surrounding water canal filled with lotus. The elephant wall (ඇත් පවුර) surrounds the stupa may be the oldest one of Sri Lanka.

Yatala stupa and surrounding water canal filled with lotus. The elephant wall (ඇත් පවුර) surrounds the stupa may be the oldest one of Sri Lanka.

Note the granite pinnacle found on the ground of the stupa.

Note the granite pinnacle found on the ground of the stupa.

Image house on the side of stupa.

Image house on the side of stupa.

Awalokitheshwara statue අවලෝකීතේශ්වර ප්රතිමාව).

Awalokitheshwara statue අවලෝකීතේශ්වර ප්රතිමාව).

Toilet stone was found at Yatala wehera. It is now located at archeology museum premises.

Toilet stone was found at Yatala wehera. It is now located at archeology museum premises.

View from museum side.

View from museum side.

he archeology museum was closed for renovation on the day of our visit.

Etha Bandi Gala (ඇතා බැදි ගල) and pillar inscription.

After passing Yatala stupa, you will come across a stone pillar on your right hand side towards Hambanthota. It is situated in a bare land, surrounded by a fence. This is called Etha Bandi Gala and a pillar inscription can be seen on it. It is believed King Dutugamunu has tied up his Elephant-Kadol (කඩොල් ඇතා) here.

Etha Bandi Gala stone pillar.

Etha Bandi Gala stone pillar.

Information of pillar inscription.

Information of pillar inscription.

Where Elephants were tied.

Where Elephants were tied.

Menik Wehera (මැණික් වෙහෙර)
Menik wehera is also situated in same side of the road towards Hambanthota about 50m after Etha Bandi Gala. It was built by King Mahanaga and due to new constructions no ruins can be seen here.

Menik Wehera can be easily captured from road.

Menik Wehera can be easily captured from road.

Debarawewa Paschimarama RMV (දෙබරවැව පශ්චිමාරාම රජමහා විහාරය).

This situated in Debarawewa junction in right hand side towards Hambanthota. It is also built by King Mahanaga. Ancient stupa, Buddha statue and scattered ruins are special features of this temple.

Stupa of Debarawewa Paschimarama RMV.

Stupa of Debarawewa Paschimarama RMV.

Scattered ruins.

Scattered ruins.

Standing Buddha statue made by limestone.

Standing Buddha statue made by limestone.

Thelulla (තෙළුල්ල) archeology site.
This place I was happened to visit. Directions for Thelulla archeology site is

Hambanthota-> Bundala junction in Thissa road->Bundala->Siriyagama->Thelulla

When you reach Thelulla ask about “Galkanu Mandiya Temple” (ගල්කණු මණ්ඩිය පන්සල). Although an archeology office is there nobody could find in our visit. Stone pillars of two buildings and basement of two stupa could be seen here. Special feature is one stupa has octagonal basement. Later I got to know this Buddhist cemetery is belong to Anuradhapura period and there are two ruined stupa in forest closer to this site.

Scattered stone pillars.

Scattered stone pillars.

Stupa-well preserved by archeology department.

Stupa-well preserved by archeology department.

Stupa which has octagonal basement.

Stupa which has octagonal basement.

Seems it has been a paradise of cattle.

Seems it has been a paradise of cattle.

Thanks for reading.

Pinch of Our Heritage – Pic Journey 1…

$
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Year and Month 17 Nov, 2013
Number of Days 1 Day
Crew 2 (Prince and Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Motor Bike
Activities Searching Old Temples, Architectural Marvels, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Nugegoda->Avissawella->Karawanella->Pitagaldeniya->Dedigama->Nelundeniya->Kadugannawa->Pilimathalawa->Gadaladeniya->Lankathilaka->Embekka and return along Kandy-Colombo Road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Avissawella-Kegalle road is under construction and very difficult to travel (Just like Hatton-Talawakelle Road).
  • There are plenty of archeologically important sites all along most of the roads and it’s just a matter of keeping an eye out for those typical black sign boards.
  • It’s not allowed to take pics inside the Archeological Museum at Dedigama. Should you want to, contact the Archeological Department and get a written permission.
  • Do refer to this website www.amazinglanka.com which is a mine of information, should you wanna read more about these.
  • Climbing to the top of the Dawson Tower is possible and the guardian of the place is one Mr. Peter. If he’s not around call him on 0726-396046. It’s better to have a torch with you.
  • Don’t litter or harm the Nature.
  • Carry some water with you.
  • Please note that this report, unlike my fairy tales, will have mainly pics and very few important facts.
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Tour Highlights:

  1. Pethangoda Uyana – Kannattota, Ruwanwella
  2. Sthreepura Purana Gallen Viharaya – Holombuwa, Pitagaldeniya
  3. Suthigara Chaithya aka Kota Vehera & Archeology Museum– Dedigama
  4. Mawela Purana Gallen Viharaya & The Hingula Falls– Pahala Kadugannawa, Hingula
  5. Kadugannawa Ambalama
  6. Dawson Tower, Kadugannawa
  7. Gadaladeniya Raja Maha Viharaya
  8. Lankathilaka Raja Maha Viharaya
  9. Embekka Kataragama Devalaya

Pethangoda Uyana

Avissawella-Kegalle Road passing Ruwanwella you’ll come across the Black Sign Board onto your left before the Warawala Town. There’s a bridge across the Gurugoda Oya and follow the road with the directions from the villagers for about 1.5-2km.

The first sign you found on the main road to the left. It says ¼ km but not really

The first sign you found on the main road to the left. It says ¼ km but not really

Cross the Gurugoda Oya

Cross the Gurugoda Oya

Take a left from here

Take a left from here

Passing the rubber estates

Passing the rubber estates

The second sign and take a left from here

The second sign and take a left from here

Lush greenery

Lush greenery

At the gate

At the gate

Rudimentary sign

Rudimentary sign

The tiny path, not motorable

The tiny path, not motorable

Please stick to these. Still I saw some idiots have carved their names on these plants...

Please stick to these. Still I saw some idiots have carved their names on these plants…

Two bushes

Two bushes

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

Very prickly

Very prickly

Scary looking

Scary looking

Standing tall

Standing tall

Drops of water hanging for their lives

Drops of water hanging for their lives

The adjoining paddy which might have been a tank in the old days

The adjoining paddy which might have been a tank in the old days

Keeping the fellow company

Keeping the fellow company

Streepura Purana Gallen Viharaya

Passing Arandara take the left at Pitagaldeniya for 3km and take a right where there’s a sign.

 

Go to the right

Go to the right

Follow this

Follow this

Passing paddy fields

Passing paddy fields

The main Dharma Shalawa

The main Dharma Shalawa

Going up

Going up

At the entrance

At the entrance

There it is

There it is

Other side

Other side

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

Tiny stupa

Tiny stupa

Not old one

Not old one

Going indoors

Going indoors

Colorful arts and statues

Colorful arts and statues

Collection of Buddha Statues

Collection of Buddha Statues

Artistic ceiling

Artistic ceiling

Gigantic sleeping Buddha

Gigantic sleeping Buddha

Going further in

Going further in

Caves going all over

Caves going all over

The pond at the end of the complex

The pond at the end of the complex

Whole temple

Whole temple

Mountains in the distance

Mountains in the distance

Suthigara Chaithya aka Kota Vehera

Take the same road from where you turned to the left at Pitagaldeniya until Thuntota. From there it’s a right turn to Dedigama and the Chaithya.

“The circumference of the Stupa is well over 800ft with a diameter of 256ft. According to the initial plan was to build the stupa to a height of 180+ft and it’d have been among the highest in Sri Lanka. Unfortunately, the invasion from South India and other civil riots kept the King Parakramabahu busy and never got the chance to finish it.”

 

Just arrived

Just arrived

Entrance

Entrance

There are a few Na Trees all along the entrance

There are a few Na Trees all along the entrance

Serene looking Buddha

Serene looking Buddha

How to worship

How to worship

Love the color combination, wish there was more blue in the sky

Love the color combination, wish there was more blue in the sky

Lion tap

Lion tap

Right side view

Right side view

Towards the back

Towards the back

Grass growing on the wall

Grass growing on the wall

Just 47 feet in height

Just 47 feet in height

Leading to the tiny one

Leading to the tiny one

It says it all

It says it all

Cut into the base

Cut into the base

It was a Poya Day and this Buddha Statue made me feel very calm

It was a Poya Day and this Buddha Statue made me feel very calm

Going in and check the opening hours (Click image to enlarge)

Going in and check the opening hours (Click image to enlarge)

Built in 1952 by D. S. Senanayake, standing tall even after 6 decades

Built in 1952 by D. S. Senanayake, standing tall even after 6 decades

Just inside the gate

Just inside the gate

Looks like a stone scripture

Looks like a stone scripture

Another one with pics

Another one with pics

Sekkuwa without its poles

Sekkuwa without its poles

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

One of the pics I took before they inform no pics

One of the pics I took before they inform no pics

The second one before the notice

The second one before the notice

Common sight in upcountry

Common sight in upcountry

Mawela Purana Gallen Viharaya

Take the Dedigama-Nelundeniya road towards Kandy road. While you’re climbing the Kadugannawa it’s on the right hand side at Hingula.

 

The notice at the main road. See the difference between the new and the old one. The new one says 103 AD but the old one says 103 BC.

The notice at the main road. See the difference between the new and the old one. The new one says 103 AD but the old one says 103 BC.

Towards Bathalegala which is about 20km away

Towards Bathalegala which is about 20km away

The concrete path towards the temple

The concrete path towards the temple

Blooming in the scorching sun

Blooming in the scorching sun

Hingula Falls at the temple, named by me

Hingula Falls at the temple, named by me

The frontal view

The frontal view

The lower bit

The lower bit

The top bit

The top bit

The entrance

The entrance

Up close

Up close

Cave temple

Cave temple

The carved stones

The carved stones

Entering the image house

Entering the image house

I felt ashamed when I saw this coz it's such a pity that the temples had to put up notices in a Buddhist Country

I felt ashamed when I saw this coz it’s such a pity that the temples had to put up notices in our Country

The newly built Stupa after the treasure hunters had their go

The newly built Stupa after the treasure hunters had their go

Inside

Inside

Going further down

Going further down

Artistic

Artistic

Bathalegala in the distance. Atmospherical haze was a bit too much

Bathalegala in the distance. Atmospherical haze was a bit too much

The second image house

The second image house

Natural water flows keep dripping

Natural water flows keep dripping

Complex of caves

Complex of caves

What a pity

What a pity

Giant Sleeping Buddha

Giant Sleeping Buddha

From the feet

From the feet

Paintings inside

Paintings inside

On the stone roof

On the stone roof

Artistic pillar

Artistic pillar

More paintings

More paintings

Giant lock on the door but couldn't keep the stinking treasure hunters away

Giant lock on the door but couldn’t keep the stinking treasure hunters away

The corridor

The corridor

 

Innovation

Innovation

Everything had a touch of art into them

Everything had a touch of art into them

Further down

Further down

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

She was very shy so I let her pass and called after her to take this pic

She was very shy so I let her pass and called after her to take this pic

Puwak

Puwak

Tiny insect trying to get some juice

Tiny insect trying to get some juice

Prince looking towards the mountains

Prince looking towards the mountains

Kadugannawa Ambalama

Located on the main road in front of the notice board towards Mawela Purana Gallen Viharaya.

 

Kadugannawa Ambalama

Kadugannawa Ambalama

Steps to the inside

Steps to the inside

Inside

Inside

The roof

The roof

It's been renovated. (Click image to enlarge)

It’s been renovated. (Click image to enlarge)

Dawson Tower

You can’t miss this. The good bit is that you can climb to the top which is about 150 feet in height. The staircase is made of wood supported by a center pillar made of 2 Kumbuk Tree Trunks joining all the way up.

 

Gigantic

Gigantic

Built in 1832. Nearly 2 centuries

Built in 1832. Nearly 2 centuries

Feeling very tiny

Feeling very tiny

From the other side of the road

From the other side of the road

The top

The top

Going up the steps

Going up the steps

Very difficult to read and located on the wall in the back

Very difficult to read and located on the wall in the back

Going around

Going around

Peter the guardian and Prince. The contact number in the middle

Peter the guardian and Prince. The contact number in the middle

The giant Kumbuk tree and the wooden steps

The giant Kumbuk tree and the wooden steps

Tiny air holes have become dumping grounds for the ignorant travelers and homes for birds

Tiny air holes have become dumping grounds for the ignorant travelers and homes for birds

Still strong enough

Still strong enough

Towards Pilimathalawa

Towards Pilimathalawa

Towards Colombo, wish a train was coming

Towards Colombo, wish a train was coming

Kadugannawa station zoomed

Kadugannawa station zoomed

With the railing around

With the railing around

The road right below

The road right below

The entrance out at the top

The entrance out at the top

The Tree trunk, see the idiots have been at work writing on it

The Tree trunk, see the idiots have been at work writing on it

Going down

Going down

Time to go, feeling hungry

Time to go, feeling hungry

Gadaladeniya Raja Maha Viharaya

Take a right at Pilimathalawa for about 1km.

 

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The entrance

The entrance

Going up

Going up

Do it by all means

Do it by all means

Taking his brother down the rock carefully

Taking his brother down the rock carefully

Sal Mal, reminded me of the school and Amara, Nayana and Chamari

Sal Mal, reminded me of the school and Amara, Nayana and Chamari

The Dharma Shalawa

The Dharma Shalawa

Unique design

Unique design

Insidge it

Insidge it

Captured alone

Captured alone

Love the color combination

Love the color combination

Inside the bottom of that Stupa

Inside the bottom of that Stupa

Stone carvings of an Elephant head

Stone carvings of an Elephant head

More to see

More to see

Another angle

Another angle

At the main image house

At the main image house

The other one

The other one

Steps to the image house

Steps to the image house

Different kind of a moon stone

Different kind of a moon stone

Every inch is covered with artistic stone carvings

Every inch is covered with artistic stone carvings

Getting washed away

Getting washed away

Every where

Every where

Stone pillars with lions

Stone pillars with lions

Even the door has paintings

Even the door has paintings

Must have been a tusk

Must have been a tusk

The brass lock looking majestic

The brass lock looking majestic

Buddha Statue

Buddha Statue

Worshiping on her own. Lord Buddha will listen to all she has to say

Worshiping on her own. Lord Buddha will listen to all she has to say

Tiny Stupa

Tiny Stupa

Like a Makara Thorana

Like a Makara Thorana

The middle

The middle

Vamana pic?

Vamana pic?

A stone pillar and a giant container

A stone pillar and a giant container

The roof with paintings

The roof with paintings

Buddha statue made of copper

Buddha statue made of copper

You too can donate

You too can donate

The legend

The legend

Not possible to enter

Not possible to enter

From the other end

From the other end

The top, under renovation

The top, under renovation

The twins or the couple with a kid?

The twins or the couple with a kid?

Being renovated

Being renovated

Not possible to get a clear pic

Not possible to get a clear pic

Where they stored paddy

Where they stored paddy

Leaving

Leaving

Lankathilaka Raja Maha Viharaya

Follow the same road for about another 3km.

 

Entering the temple

Entering the temple

Base of the rock

Base of the rock

Somewhat steep climb

Somewhat steep climb

Large chains as supporters. Can see the old steps carved on the right

Large chains as supporters. Can see the old steps carved on the right

The view is superb

The view is superb

 

The view is superb

The view is superb

Not so easy

Not so easy

Looks like Hanthana Mountain range

Looks like Hanthana Mountain range

Finally came up

Finally came up

The main image house

The main image house

Elephant carvings

Elephant carvings

Adjoining Vishnu Devalaya

Adjoining Vishnu Devalaya

Being a Poya Day, many people were there

Being a Poya Day, many people were there

Very beautiful

Very beautiful

Made of copper or gold plated?

Made of copper or gold plated?

The proud looking lion

The proud looking lion

Had to wait a long time to get this without people milling about

Had to wait a long time to get this without people milling about

The legend

The legend

From the Vishnu Devalaya Entrance. That's being used as the main entrance as many people don't wanna climb those steps along the rock

From the Vishnu Devalaya Entrance. That’s being used as the main entrance as many people don’t wanna climb those steps along the rock

The roof at the entrance structure

The roof at the entrance structure

Wooden sculptures

Wooden sculptures

A real looking moonstone but made of wood

A real looking moonstone but made of wood

Here's the artist waiting for some sales

Here’s the artist waiting for some sales

The pond in the premises

The pond in the premises

Going to the main building

Going to the main building

Not a chance to go up

Not a chance to go up

The Makara Thorana

The Makara Thorana

Getting dark and cloudy

Getting dark and cloudy

Embekka Kataragama Devalaya

Another 1.5-2km will take you along the same road from Lankathilaka.

“Among the carvings, there are 125 series of decorations, 256 liyawel, 64 lotus designs in Pekada, 30 decorative patterns on timber, roof members, making a total of 514 such exquisite carvings.”

 “The ‘Madol Kurupuwa’ is one of the finest examples of medieval carpentry excellence. It is a wooden pin (this Madol Kurupuwa) which holds together 26 rafters at the hipped end of the roof of the Digge of Embekke Devale.”

 

Just arrived

Just arrived

Important

Important

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

We didn't have to get any ticket as there was no body to issue one

We didn’t have to get any ticket as there was no body to issue one

The entrance

The entrance

On the left of the main structure another Devalaya

On the left of the main structure another Devalaya

The partition of the main building on the right

The partition of the main building on the right

Main Kataragama Devalaya

Main Kataragama Devalaya

26 rafters joined by one wooden pin

26 rafters joined by one wooden pin

Carvings on the pillars

Carvings on the pillars

One of 514 carvings

One of 514 carvings

Another

Another

Mythical one

Mythical one

Breast feeding a kid

Breast feeding a kid

Twin Swans

Twin Swans

Now getting split

Now getting split

God like

God like

Some more

Some more

Many more

Many more

Liya wala

Liya wala

Nelum Mala

Nelum Mala

Angam Pora

Angam Pora

One of horseback

One of horseback

Gajasinghe

Gajasinghe

Endless

Endless

Wooden Beeralu like things

Wooden Beeralu like things

Can't go in

Can’t go in

Locked door

Locked door

Towards the back

Towards the back

Top of it

Top of it

The kitchen on the right and the paddy storage on the left

The kitchen on the right and the paddy storage on the left

The old one

The old one

The sole Pano:

 

image467

P.S. I tried using a different format with this report. Hoping against hope you all found it useful and easy to go through. Didn’t wanna overdo my fairy tale like stories and bore you to no end.

Take care…

 

Crisscrossing through Siyane Korale on New Year’s Eve – Pic Journey 2…

$
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Year and Month 31 Dec, 2013
Number of Days 1
Crew 2 (Tony and Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Motor Bike
Activities Hiking, Photography, Archeology, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Wattala->Peralanda->Thewatte->Walpola->Gampaha->Asgiriya->Gampaha->Pilikuttuwa->Uruwala->Maligathenna and return to Miriswatte and along Kandy road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Plan the route accordingly so that you can see as many as possible.
  • There’s said to be a path from Pilikuththuwa to Maligathenna via the dense forest. Don’t attempt it without a local as the forest is infested with poisonous snakes.
  • Carry plenty of water.
  • Please don’t harm the Mother Nature.
  • Refer to Hari’s brief visit to Maligathenna here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Good morning Sri Mahaththayo!” – Tony calling with his typically cheerful tone.

“Good morning Uncle” – I can’t help teasing him.

“So, what are you doing now? Any plans?” – That’s how we laid the foundation for this unbelievably rich peep into Siyane Korale on New Year’s Eve.

It never fails to surprise me how much there is to see in this tiny jewel of an island. What amazes me more is the things to see and places to visit closer to home but go unnoticed more often than not.

It’s been during one of those adventures Tony came up with the notion to explore things in and around Gampaha, the Siyane Korale. He’s closed to the area and knows most of it like the back of his hand. To make things interesting he’s also come across a paper article about some mysterious caves located close to Asgiriya, Gampaha. Probably you will hear more about them one day, fingers crossed.
However our Antarctic-esque hike to Sri Pada kept the journey waiting till the very last day of 2013. So on the 31st morning I left for his place where I had a snack of special Roties with tasty Sambol.

We left around 8am on his good old Motor Bike which had all the faults imaginable in a bike.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Peralanda Tank, Ragama
  2. Kapuwa Tank, Ragama
  3. National Basilica, Thewaththa
  4. Walpola Tank, Ragama
  5. Ananda Bodhi Temple
  6. Henarathgoda Botanical Gardens, Gampaha
  7. Asgiriya Temple, Gampaha
  8. Henarathgoda Ancient Railway Station, Gampaha
  9. Pilikuththuwa Cave Temple Complex, Pilikuttuwa
  10. Walagamba Maha Viharaya, Uruwala
  11. Maligathenna

Peralanda & Kapuwa Tanks
We took the Mabole-Ragama-Thewatte Road passing Peralanda. These two tanks have become victims to the so-called development. People living around seem to dump their garbage to these at will destroying the eco-systems.

Peralanda Tank

Peralanda Tank

Plenty of these

Plenty of these

Duck swimming away

Duck swimming away

White ones too

White ones too

Waiting for something

Waiting for something

Kapuwa Tank

Kapuwa Tank

National Basilica, Thewatte

From Ragama follow the Thewatte road. This was the largest in the whole of Asia when it was built but there could be bigger ones now built. This Basilica was a symbol of peace as the core reason for its building based on a vow to see the most destructive thing to the humans ever-known to date, the Second World War.

 

Thewatte Basillica

Thewatte Basillica

The carpeted road

The carpeted road

Sudu Redi Hora

Sudu Redi Hora

Seen from the road

Seen from the road

Hope you can read it...

Hope you can read it…

The other person

The other person

From the front

From the front

Sideways

Sideways

The plan

The plan

Inside

Inside

The altar

The altar

Another angle

Another angle

X'mas decoration still there

X’mas decoration still there

Red carpet

Red carpet

Cardinal Thomas Cooray's gravestone

Cardinal Thomas Cooray’s gravestone

Purple

Purple

Scriptures along the wall

Scriptures along the wall

Na trees

Na trees

Walpola Tank

From Thewatte, take the Walpola road. This is the biggest among the 4 tanks located in and around Ragama. Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to visit the fourth. This is somewhat less affected by the urbanization as it’s bordered by a temple and has a “Seema Malakaya” in the middle with a bridge running up to it just like the Gangarama Temple.

 

From the road

From the road

White lilies

White lilies

Up close

Up close

Seema Malakaya

Seema Malakaya

Simply majestic

Simply majestic

The bridge connecting

The bridge connecting

Hunting

Hunting

Lush greenery paddies

Lush greenery paddies

Ananda Bodhi Temple

This came as a surprise when Tony said that there is a Kovil-like temple and suggested we visit it too. It turned out to be a replica of the sacred Buddhagaya Temple in India and had built around 15 years ago. This was found on our way from Walpola towards Ja Ela-Gampaha main road bypassing Ganemulla town.

What fascinated us most was the immaculately kept garden full of flowers and fruit trees. There was a Sapatilla tree full of fruit and the monks had done a great job of covering most of them with polythene but leaving the ones at the top probably for the birds and squirrels. It has a branch from the Original Ananda Bodhi in India. The whole temple looks like a flower garden with various kinds of flowers blossoming beautifully.

 

Turn here

Turn here

Just entering

Just entering

Makara Thorana

Makara Thorana

Replica of Buddhagaya

Replica of Buddhagaya

The top

The top

Full of art

Full of art

Very nice

Very nice

Replica Ashoka Tower

Replica Ashoka Tower

Up close

Up close

Just like a flower garden

Just like a flower garden

Red beauty

Red beauty

Now it's very rare to find these

Now it’s very rare to find these

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Endless

Endless

Buddha statue

Buddha statue

Very colorful

Very colorful

Later saw hundreds of these at HBG

Later saw hundreds of these at HBG

Branch of the Ananda Bodhi

Branch of the Ananda Bodhi

Fragrance was all around

Fragrance was all around

Some more

Some more

Whole lot of them

Whole lot of them

Very delicious when cooked

Very delicious when cooked

Dambala, the protein bomb

Dambala, the protein bomb

Well protected

Well protected

More lilies

More lilies

Very nice scenery

Very nice scenery

Papaya not ripe yet

Papaya not ripe yet

Yapahuwa Lion

Yapahuwa Lion

From the distance

From the distance

Kaduru Flowers

Kaduru Flowers

This kind coconut was very delicious

This kind coconut was very delicious

Henarathgoda Botanical Gardens, Gampaha

First started in 1876, this must be one of the oldest Botanical Garden in the world. Once you’re on Ja Ela-Gampaha road, you will see the back entrance of the garden 300m from the main road. There is a signage with the directions given. For our surprise, the gate on this side was unmanned and buying a ticket didn’t seem necessary whereas from the main gate, turning left from Gampaha-Udugampola road for 300m, requires to buy tickets and very strict rules are in place.

We took the main gate and you can take your vehicles right inside (there is no parking space available outside as what little invaded by the hiring tuk-tuks). However there is a fee to be paid (I’ve given the fees chart on a pic). Taking a camera too is tricky as they have rules limiting that. You gotta buy a ticket for Rs. 1000/- if you taking a camera, especially an SLR. The security is kinda divided about the rule when it comes to small point-n-shoot cameras so I’d advise you to keep it in your pocket coz they made arguments and counter arguments about my camera and in the end, thanks to the gent security staff (the female one point blank refused to let me through without a ticket or permission from the authorities) we were waved through.

The garden boasts the first rubber trees planted in Sri Lanka; unfortunately the very first one had been fallen down due to the storm in the 80s. There are even a couple of playgrounds available too which you can reserve for a fee. This garden is very popular among the couples in Gampaha and nearby areas. By the time we entered there were about 150-200 couples all over the place and we felt like invading their privacy. All the benches, tree roots and stones were fully booked even the grass beds were not spared. There even is a man-made lake with paddle boat rides provided for Rs. 200/- for half hour if I’m not mistaken.

They even sell plants for a nominal fee and they are guaranteed to grow better than what you’d buy at Haggala or other upcountry places as the weather is very similar to Colombo.

 

The Ja Ela-Gampaha Entrance (Back entrance)

The Ja Ela-Gampaha Entrance (Back entrance)

Along Minuwangoda road

Along Minuwangoda road

Turn left

Turn left

Ticket prices

Ticket prices

The layout

The layout

Reflection is making it difficult to read

Reflection is making it difficult to read

Started 138 years ago

Started 138 years ago

One of the two cricket grounds, most of the benches were occupied by the couples

One of the two cricket grounds, most of the benches were occupied by the couples

Color of love

Color of love

Shady path

Shady path

Inside the park, don't know who owns the fellow?

Inside the park, don’t know who owns the fellow?

The back entrance is to the left. Not a sign of a ticket counter

The back entrance is to the left. Not a sign of a ticket counter

Leaves are falling down

Leaves are falling down

Katu Una, reminds of Pethangoda Uyana

Katu Una, reminds of Pethangoda Uyana

Through the bushy bamboo

Through the bushy bamboo

Looking at another buddy

Looking at another buddy

Very nicely done but long past its prime days

Very nicely done but long past its prime days

Plenty of roots making patterns

Plenty of roots making patterns

Up we go

Up we go

What a place

What a place

Very good medicine in Ayurveda treatments

Very good medicine in Ayurveda treatments

Red, Blue and Green, 3 primary colors

Red, Blue and Green, 3 primary colors

Artistic trees

Artistic trees

Towards the boatyard

Towards the boatyard

Getting on

Getting on

Looks like a man-made lake

Looks like a man-made lake

More red

More red

Rs. 200/- per half hour if I'm not mistaken

Rs. 200/- per half hour if I’m not mistaken

One to the other

One to the other

This is outside the garden

This is outside the garden

Giant bamboo

Giant bamboo

Don't know what this is

Don’t know what this is

Orchids

Orchids

More

More

This one I don't know

This one I don’t know

Madu?

Madu?

Plenty of flower in this area

Plenty of flower in this area

Very beautifully decorated garden

Very beautifully decorated garden

Birdie made of plants

Birdie made of plants

Looks like a coconut variety, but in fact it’s Palmyra

Looks like a coconut variety, but in fact it’s Palmyra

Bunches of them

Bunches of them

A water lily

A water lily

Very common one this is

Very common one this is

Standing tall

Standing tall

Leafless Araliya

Leafless Araliya

Looks like plastic

Looks like plastic

Wow

Wow

I got tired of taking pics of these beauties

I got tired of taking pics of these beauties

The theme of the day

The theme of the day

Just getting back to the main entrance

Just getting back to the main entrance

Reminds of Peradeniya

Reminds of Peradeniya

Main reason for our visit

Main reason for our visit

Fallen down but couple of the original batch still there

Fallen down but couple of the original batch still there

Here they are

Here they are

Time to go

Time to go

Asgiriya Temple

Our next destination was Asgiriya Temple which is further ahead the Udugampola road. The main complex is on a small rocky hill and the climb is not too difficult but not a walk in the park either.

There are two telecommunications towers close to each other on the top which is a very distinct feature. You can easily identify the Asgiriya rock as a result. The view was superb but fierce sunlight made things very difficult especially for taking pics. Maliga Thenna, the highest point in Gampaha district was visible in the distance. There is a very large cave with drip edges too.

 

The legend

The legend

Just 48hrs after climbing the Sri Padaya, this turned out to be very challenging

Just 48hrs after climbing the Sri Padaya, this turned out to be very challenging

Just got here

Just got here

To the top

To the top

Need a lick of paint

Need a lick of paint

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

Image house

Image house

Right at the top

Right at the top

Looks purposely done

Looks purposely done

Blocking the view

Blocking the view

See the green

See the green

Towards the cave

Towards the cave

Here it is

Here it is

Tiny pond too

Tiny pond too

Inscription with a pic

Inscription with a pic

Here it was

Here it was

Giant Na tree

Giant Na tree

Henarathgoda Ancient Railway Station, Gampaha

This is the first station in Gampaha established in 1864, nearly 150 years ago. Many seem to miss this even though it’s almost adjacent to the current Gampaha station. If you walk along the railway from the flyover towards the station (about 100m) you can see this just before the main station with a sign. It’s a very small structure about 12′X12′ and now being used as an archeological office. If you come from the bus stand, you can see the front of it.

 

Walking about 50m from the flyover towards the Gampaha railway

Walking about 50m from the flyover towards the Gampaha railway

It says built in 1864, 150 years ago

It says built in 1864, 150 years ago

Oncoming train

Oncoming train

Wonder how the train crosses this bit

Wonder how the train crosses this bit

Pilikuththuwa Cave Temple Complex with 99 Caves

We were knackered and all the walking and climbing just after Sri Pada hike slowly taking its toll. We reached Gampaha just after 12 noon and met one of the good friends of us who is a key member of Lakdasun as well. (I’ll keep his identity a secret)

It was the first time I saw him in person even though Tony is very closely in association with him. He helped us get the details of Pilikuttuwa and directions too. Not stopping there, he invited us for lunch and called home to inform that two extra mouths of Lakdasun on their way. His wife had very kindly obliged and prepared a fabulous feast like lunch at a very short notice. Both of them were very hospitable and welcomed us warmly including their youngest 19-year old son. However the two dogs (in fact brothers) were a bit worried and made their thoughts clear. Gladly for us but for their irritation, they were confined to the cages. After a grand lunch and a wunnerful (as the Americans say) chat, we bid farewell to them, vowing to look them up should we happen to roam close to their place again, and were on the Gampaha-Radawana road.

Passing the A1 (Colombo-Kandy) road you will come across a Y junction and take the right hand road. After a short distance is this Pre-historical cave complex according to the monk at the archeological office on site. He said the temple and the structures are mainly belonging to the Kandy era even though the legends claim King Walahamba (the King of Caves) too was staying around. According to the notice the whole complex has 99 caves and most are still clearly accessible.

Be Warned:

“There are paths from Pilikuttuwa to the Maliga Thenna, which is the highest point in Gampaha district, through the dense forest. However this jungle is infested with all kinds of very venomous snakes. So walking through the forest is something you should never do on your own. Even with a guide (a villager coz there are no dedicated guides as such) you gotta be extra careful, I’d not personally recommend doing this. There are leopards too, not the big ones though (what we call “Handun Diviya” and “Kola Diviya”).”

There clear sign postings and a view point called Belum Gala provided panoramic views all around. We could see the Maliga Thenna in the distance but the jungle was very scary. Looking from there the whole area below looked lush green which is quite unbelievable as we were within 25km of Colombo and didn’t expect to see so much green let alone that big a forest there. We even came across a cobra near the archeological office which intensified our fears greatly. The monk there is very knowledgeable about the history so don’t forget to talk to him should you ever visit the place. We even told him about the Lakdasun and he was quite impressed.

 

To the left

To the left

The legend

The legend

Main Hall

Main Hall

Historical value

Historical value

Nice place to put the bell tower

Nice place to put the bell tower

The steps are to get down to the water canal

The steps are to get down to the water canal

Wooden bridge, reminds of Bogoda

Wooden bridge, reminds of Bogoda

Still very strong

Still very strong

From the other end

From the other end

Rocky temple

Rocky temple

Small pond

Small pond

Looks like a tank

Looks like a tank

Heading towards the other caves

Heading towards the other caves

The replica of Sri Pada

The replica of Sri Pada

Replica of Lord Buddha footprint

Replica of Lord Buddha footprint

From the vantage point

From the vantage point

More caves

More caves

Another big pond

Another big pond

Can see the seeds

Can see the seeds

More caves to explore

More caves to explore

To the left is the archaeological office

To the left is the archaeological office

Caves are very common here

Caves are very common here

The beginning of the trail head

The beginning of the trail head

Inside the office

Inside the office

The key places

The key places

Going along the trail

Going along the trail

Creepers in different sizes

Creepers in different sizes

Drip edges are there

Drip edges are there

Going to see the giant Puss creeper

Going to see the giant Puss creeper

Here it is

Here it is

Low ceiling

Low ceiling

Endless

Endless

Tony showing difference in colors

Tony showing difference in colors

Going uphill

Going uphill

Anthills are very common too

Anthills are very common too

Some more, what a climb

Some more, what a climb

Only the locals have managed to scribble on the rocks...

Only the locals have managed to scribble on the rocks…

Tricky entrance

Tricky entrance

The Belumgala

The Belumgala

Pineapple cultivation

Pineapple cultivation

Maligathenna in the distance

Maligathenna in the distance

So much green

So much green

Handrail too

Handrail too

Bamboo shady path

Bamboo shady path

Coming back to the temple

Coming back to the temple

Giant rocks still standing

Giant rocks still standing

Tiny stupa

Tiny stupa

Walagamba Maha Viharaya, Uruwala

Going from Pilikuttuwa towards Maliga Thenna we saw the board saying this temple and stopped for a brief visit. As the name suggests this too had been a frequent visiting place for the King of Caves and his footprints are left here too.

 

Just spotted this along the way

Just spotted this along the way

Ancient rocks covered Bo tree

Ancient rocks covered Bo tree

Image house

Image house

More Caves, Walagamba must've been here

More Caves, Walagamba must’ve been here

Tiny pond

Tiny pond

Climbing up the rock

Climbing up the rock

Buddha statue

Buddha statue

Clear blue sky

Clear blue sky

The stupa on top

The stupa on top

Nearby rocks

Nearby rocks

More to climb

More to climb

The Bo tree on top

The Bo tree on top

The endless green

The endless green

Barely visible

Barely visible

Very nice fragrance they have

Very nice fragrance they have

Don't know if it's ancient

Don’t know if it’s ancient

Stone pillars are still there

Stone pillars are still there

Maligathenna

Passing this we continued further towards Wathurugama along Miriswatta-Wathurugama road till the destination.

This is the highest level in Gampaha district and at the top gives you a 360-degree view, ideal for a fortress. The midpoint of the rock is the temple and there is a sideways path to the summit through a very narrow gap between two rock boulders which is a very strategic point when defending the fort against invading forces. This place is very similar to Dambadeniya rock, almost identical in many ways.

At the top has a pond and a Stupa constructed on a stony foundation which is original and could’ve been the foundation of the palace. We could see miles into the horizon on all around. Tony found the number of telecommunications towers visible from the top is quite impressive; he counted more than 50 on one side. Again the amount of green amazed us to no end and I was very glad. Pilikuttuwa Belum Gala was clearly visible from here and there were people and monks getting things organized to have a Pirith Chanting Ceremony on the top of 1st Jan night which was the following day. It’d be amazing to spend a night camping on the top but not sure if it’s allowed.

We decided to recollect the passing 2013 and savor the final sunset of the year at this majestic location. The clouds mercilessly didn’t offer the best of the sunsets but we managed to get a good enough one to treasure in our hearts forever.

That’s my Pic Journey 2 and you might have noticed that I have added more details than my Previous Pic Journey. This is more like a cross between that and a fairy tale and hope you enjoyed it all the way.

The Video of Setting Sun from Maligathenna…

Take care…

 

There it is in the distance

There it is in the distance

Go to the left

Go to the left

Original stone steps

Original stone steps

Peeling away

Peeling away

What a steep climb

What a steep climb

Old and new steps side by side

Old and new steps side by side

Some more

Some more

Nearly there

Nearly there

Definitely

Definitely

Entrance

Entrance

The legend

The legend

Main image house

Main image house

Couldn't agree more

Couldn’t agree more

Huge rock towering above

Huge rock towering above

Let's go

Let’s go

Not visible

Not visible

I like this against the royal blue sky

I like this against the royal blue sky

The top of it

The top of it

Gigantic looking

Gigantic looking

Let's go up

Let’s go up

See the house on a rock in the distance? That is the Dikkanda Bungalow close to Pettagamkanda

See the house on a rock in the distance? That is the Dikkanda Bungalow close to Pettagamkanda

Bend in half

Bend in half

Going and going up

Going and going up

These boys are carrying water for the Pirith Chanting ceremony on the 1st Jan night

These boys are carrying water for the Pirith Chanting ceremony on the 1st Jan night

They are coming to inspect the preparation

They are coming to inspect the preparation

Tiny monks are very playful

Tiny monks are very playful

Who kept it here?

Who kept it here?

Going up

Going up

Remind of Dambadeniya

Remind of Dambadeniya

Nearly there

Nearly there

No, some more

No, some more

Tony climbing with a difficulty

Tony climbing with a difficulty

Rocks nearby

Rocks nearby

Be careful Tony

Be careful Tony

The water tower is in Gampaha, further away is the Asgiriya

The water tower is in Gampaha, further away is the Asgiriya

More carved steps

More carved steps

Another stupa

Another stupa

Full view

Full view

Pond on top

Pond on top

Very nice place for camping

Very nice place for camping

Throwing stones

Throwing stones

He's trying to tie it against the wind

He’s trying to tie it against the wind

Very nice looking

Very nice looking

Endless greenery

Endless greenery

"Mh, nothing to eat here either."

“Mh, nothing to eat here either.”

Remind me of Anuradhapura

Remind me of Anuradhapura

Another beauty

Another beauty

Very windy

Very windy

Giving you a 360-degree panoramic view

Giving you a 360-degree panoramic view

Sun ready to set

Sun ready to set

More White

More White

1/4 red

1/4 red

More than 1/2 red

More than 1/2 red

Nearly 4/5 red

Nearly 4/5 red

Almost

Almost

Fully red

Fully red

The travelers

The travelers

Panos…

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Cave Exploration Continues – Pic Journey 3…

$
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Year and Month 14 Jan, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Tony and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Bike
Activities Archaeology, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Wattala->Ragama->Radawana Road off Kandy Road->Koskandawala Temple->Nellugahamulla->Turning left towards Warana Ancient Temple->Back to Nellugahamulla->Dikkanda->Left towards Galboda->Pettagankanda->Urapola->Attanagalla->Alawala Pre-Historic Caves->Back to Attanagalla->Haggala Junction->Algama and back to Haggala->Pasyala->Back to Colombo along Kandy Road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You have to turn left from where you had to go towards Pilikuttuwa along Yakkala-Radawana Road. (Please read my previous report for that directions here)
  • Algama Falls and Uduwaka Falls are swarming with drunks so do avoid weekend and holidays.
  • Algama falls is apparently a very small one but the Uduwaka falls is bigger and wider. Unfortunately not enough water when we visited.
  • Don’t take any polythene or plastic and leave them behind.
  • Carry water with you, plenty of them.
  • For the first half of this journey, check this report. (Crisscrossing through Siyane Korale – Pic Journey 2…)

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After our (Tony and Me) first run through the Siyane Korale, which was a grand tour, we decided to continue from where we stopped covering the remaining archaeologically important places in Gampaha District. 14 January looked like a perfect choice coz we both were free, unfortunately we missed Hari’s hike to the Sacred Sri Pada via scenic Maray Watta and Sandagala Thenna route as we both had to work the following day despite it being a Poya Day. This made Hari as mad as a lone Elephant in Maduru Oya.

We called it a day at Maligathenna the other day after a marathon run of exploration of Siyane Korale, Tony vowed to come back to do the rest of it and that’s exactly what we did at the end.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Koskandawala Temple, Koskandawala (Yakkala-Radawana Road)
  2. Warana Cave Temple, Warana Temple Road off Nelligahamulla
  3. Pettagankanda, Galboda off Dikkanada Junction
  4. Alawala Pre-Historic Cave, Alawala, Attanagalla off Attanagalla-Galapitamada Road
  5. Uduwaka Falls, Algama off Haggalla-Algama Road

Koskandawala Temple

Take the Yakkala-Radawana Road and after about 2km you’ll see the temple onto your right facing the road itself.

The entrance is just by the road

The entrance is just by the road

The cave image house and the solid rock on the background

The cave image house and the solid rock on the background

Entering into the image house

Entering into the image house

The newly built structure replacing the ancient mud walls have destroyed part of the paintings on the rocky ceiling

The newly built structure replacing the ancient mud walls have destroyed part of the paintings on the rocky ceiling

The rocky flower stand and an apparently a water container located above it to get water

The rocky flower stand and an apparently a water container located above it to get water

Locked?

Locked?

Gigantic brass key

Gigantic brass key

Got in after all

Got in after all

The rocky ceiling full of colorful paintings and art

The rocky ceiling full of colorful paintings and art

The archaeology dept. has done their bit of cleaning the place getting it to former glory

The archaeology dept. has done their bit of cleaning the place getting it to former glory

Thousands of years old yet still in mint condition

Thousands of years old yet still in mint condition

The creative base of the stupa is different from one another

The creative base of the stupa is different from one another

Peeling off at times but a chemical has been used to stop further erosion

Peeling off at times but a chemical has been used to stop further erosion

The blackish square represent the state the whole paintings were before the cleaning

The blackish square represent the state the whole paintings were before the cleaning

More paintings of Stupa

More paintings of Stupa

Done very smoothly

Done very smoothly

A plane has just gone by

A plane has just gone by

The stupa and around it we got to the back looking if we could climb that rock

The stupa and around it we got to the back looking if we could climb that rock

Seen places like these at Alu Viharaya, Matale

Seen places like these at Alu Viharaya, Matale

No clue what these are

No clue what these are

Soaring high

Soaring high

They've found shelter in one of the caves

They’ve found shelter in one of the caves

Resting place

Resting place

There had been a forest of many trees but now completely cut them off and making it like a desert

There had been a forest of many trees but now completely cut them off and making it like a desert

Warana Cave Temple

Go further along towards Radawana take the left Warana Temple Road at Nelligahamulla Junction.

 

Just around the corner of Warana Temple

Just around the corner of Warana Temple

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Don't get fooled by the distance. It's 0.3km (300m) but the dot in the middle is no longer visible or not put there at all

Don’t get fooled by the distance. It’s 0.3km (300m) but the dot in the middle is no longer visible or not put there at all

At the entrance

At the entrance

Not ripe yet

Not ripe yet

More than 2000 years old?

More than 2000 years old?

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

Huge rock with drip edges. Who would've carved them so high?

Huge rock with drip edges. Who would’ve carved them so high?

Main complex

Main complex

The history of it

The history of it

Going to the Second Stage

Going to the Second Stage

The rock pillars still standing

The rock pillars still standing

The stupa

The stupa

Resting after a heavy climb

Resting after a heavy climb

Curtained to protect the statue

Curtained to protect the statue

Still in mint condition after so many years

Still in mint condition after so many years

Endless paintings in the cave

Endless paintings in the cave

Huge inside

Huge inside

Many statues too

Many statues too

After the cleaning

After the cleaning

More paintings

More paintings

Reminds me of Sigiriya

Reminds me of Sigiriya

All of them were 100% identical in size.

All of them were 100% identical in size.

Faded paintings revealing colorful plaster underneath

Faded paintings revealing colorful plaster underneath

Wondering what we are up to

Wondering what we are up to

Imagine the size of the rock

Imagine the size of the rock

Goint to the 3rd Level

Goint to the 3rd Level

The path goes uphill

The path goes uphill

More to climb

More to climb

Similar one was at Pilikuththuwa

Similar one was at Pilikuththuwa

Another stupa up there

Another stupa up there

Another image house but it was locked maybe due to restoration by the archaeological department

Another image house but it was locked maybe due to restoration by the archaeological department

Lovely shades

Lovely shades

Closed but managed to get a pic

Closed but managed to get a pic

More paintings on rocky ceiling, like Dambulla

More paintings on rocky ceiling, like Dambulla

Serene looking Buddha

Serene looking Buddha

The ceiling is made of wood with more paintings

The ceiling is made of wood with more paintings

Cracking at places

Cracking at places

Towards the back

Towards the back

Idiotic travelers are doing this everywhere

Idiotic travelers are doing this everywhere

Through the branches of Bo Tree

Through the branches of Bo Tree

They are getting ready to fix a stall for the next day Poya

They are getting ready to fix a stall for the next day Poya

Look at the greenery to the horizon

Look at the greenery to the horizon

Very small monk going towards the image house

Very small monk going towards the image house

Another look at the giant rock and the structure underneath

Another look at the giant rock and the structure underneath

These paintings are obscured by the building you saw in the above pic

These paintings are obscured by the building you saw in the above pic

This roof covers a lot of painting on the rock

This roof covers a lot of painting on the rock

Going towards the rocky inscription

Going towards the rocky inscription

There it is

There it is

Very few letters

Very few letters

Fish tale bird

Fish tale bird

Look at the paddy in the middle with its strange layout of paths in between

Look at the paddy in the middle with its strange layout of paths in between

Pettagankanda

Get back to Nelligamulla and go further towards Radawana till you come to Dikkanda Junction and turn left towards Galboda. Ask the directions from the villagers.

Note: The rock where they called the Pettagankanda has been a victim for quarry workers. They had broken the face of it nearly in half endangering the Temple and the Meditating Monks who live there. The constant noise must’ve been a great burden for those monks. They simply ask us to put it so that someone will take notice the damage done to this place. When we visited, there was a lorry and someone was breaking the stones. The ground was a big hole full of rain water and the surrounding area must surely be full of mosquitoes as a result. It’s really surprise the PHIs or the Police don’t take any action against these people who are doing this damaged with the greedy politicians’ blessing in the area. I hope someone will take notice and take some action.

Dikkanda Walawwa:

 I’ve posted a pic of this seen from Maligathenna and apparently this is a huge bungalow with 80 rooms according to the folklore. The villagers claim that the owner of this place was to marry an ex-president but it didn’t happen. This bungalow was built in the hope of living here after the marriage. The area belonging to this place is said to be roughly 3000 acres. The bungalow itself is located on top of a hill giving it a panoramic view of the surrounding areas. The owner is supposedly remaining single to date.

 

Saw one of these along Pilikuththuwa road but missed picturing it. Very rare sighting

Saw one of these along Pilikuththuwa road but missed picturing it. Very rare sighting

Near the entrance

Near the entrance

Do read this and behave accordingly

Do read this and behave accordingly

The Quarry below

The Quarry below

10X zoomed

10X zoomed

20X zoomed. They keep digging at it

20X zoomed. They keep digging at it

The path is nearly at the edge to the temple

The path is nearly at the edge to the temple

The whole area is damaged severely

The whole area is damaged severely

Here's the Pettagan Gala

Here’s the Pettagan Gala

Closer

Closer

The surrounding, just to the left of the golden stupa is Warana and beyond that Koskandawala

The surrounding, just to the left of the golden stupa is Warana and beyond that Koskandawala

The Maligathenna in the middle and to the left is Dikkanda Bungalow and under that the farm

The Maligathenna in the middle and to the left is Dikkanda Bungalow and under that the farm

Maligathenna zoomed. Sweet memories

Maligathenna zoomed. Sweet memories

Along the shady path

Along the shady path

Got nearer

Got nearer

The stupa

The stupa

This is what it's called

This is what it’s called

Maligathenna to the right

Maligathenna to the right

There's a similar gold painted rock in Thailand

There’s a similar gold painted rock in Thailand

Just barely touching the rock underneath

Just barely touching the rock underneath

See the small surface area of the two rocks attached with no firm support visible

See the small surface area of the two rocks attached with no firm support visible

They kept going here and there

They kept going here and there

Extreme left is Koskandawla, middle Warana and to the right is some rock with a quarry

Extreme left is Koskandawla, middle Warana and to the right is some rock with a quarry

Towards the cave in the middle of the rock and the path is going dangerously close to the edge of the quarry

Towards the cave in the middle of the rock and the path is going dangerously close to the edge of the quarry

They were sitting in the middle and zoomed in to the max. While the rocks are being blasted with mallets, this idiot kept those kids closer.

They were sitting in the middle and zoomed in to the max.

Down we go

Down we go

Old man on this back sliding down

Old man on this back sliding down

Not an easy task for the old bones

Not an easy task for the old bones

Tony picturing inside the cave

Tony picturing inside the cave

They've left statues

They’ve left statues

The interior is too low for comfort

The interior is too low for comfort

Managed to squeeze in and take the pic. Maligathenna and Dikkanda clearly visible

Managed to squeeze in and take the pic. Maligathenna and Dikkanda clearly visible

The pagoda from the cave

The pagoda from the cave

Sitting close to each other

Sitting close to each other

Alawala Pre-Historic Cave

From Galboda take the same road towards Urapola. Take left of Veyangoda-Ruwanwella Road until you reach Attanagalla. From Attanagalla, take the right Pasyala-Attanagalla Road and just about 100m along there’s a turn to the right with a sign board for Alawala Cave. Follow it for 8km along Galapitamada Road and you’ll see another similar sign onto your left after Alawala Junction. Along that road about 500-600m away is a temple and ask the directions from there. There are very helpful young boys playing around and they’ll happily show you the way.

 

Just at the turning in Attanagalla

Just at the turning in Attanagalla

After 8km turn left from here

After 8km turn left from here

This huge notice board is hard to miss

This huge notice board is hard to miss

Tooth of a Shark and a bone of the extinct SL tiger also found

Tooth of a Shark and a bone of the extinct SL tiger also found

Many more stones and bones

Many more stones and bones

The story (Click image to enlarge)

The story (Click image to enlarge)

Have to climb up to the rocky ledge

Have to climb up to the rocky ledge

Our friend Sanju who met us at the temple leading the way

Our friend Sanju who met us at the temple leading the way

Many of these available

Many of these available

Just at the mouth of the cave

Just at the mouth of the cave

Sanju in the middle and the dugout seen

Sanju in the middle and the dugout seen

Signs of work done

Signs of work done

The cavity where they found all those things

The cavity where they found all those things

The cave is very lengthy

The cave is very lengthy

Signs of excavation

Signs of excavation

Tony and Sanju with Tony's sweaty hat

Tony and Sanju with Tony’s sweaty hat

Goes a long way

Goes a long way

From the cave

From the cave

When you come along the road, you have to park your vehicles near the hut at the bottom and walk up

When you come along the road, you have to park your vehicles near the hut at the bottom and walk up

He was merrily drinking

He was merrily drinking

Can't leave these sweet hearts

Can’t leave these sweet hearts

Another cave temple but now it's turned into a Devalaya where they use all these Mantra to curse people

Another cave temple but now it’s turned into a Devalaya where they use all these Mantra to curse people

The Suniyam Devalaya

The Suniyam Devalaya

Don't understand the logic doing all those bad ghtings for people hiding behind Lord Buddha, even Sanju being a kid wouldn't come to this place coz he said these people are bad

Don’t understand the logic doing all those bad ghtings for people hiding behind Lord Buddha, even Sanju being a kid wouldn’t come to this place coz he said these people are bad

Uduwaka Falls

Back to Attanagalla and continue towards Pasyala till you come to Haggalla Junction. (Don’t get confused with the Nuwara Eliya Haggala). Take the right along Algama Road till you get to Algama where the famous bathing place of Algama Falls is located. Unfortunately when we visited it was swarming with drunks in different stages of getting drunk. The waterfall is not so high and the water levels were too low so we decided not to push upwards along the stream zig-zaging the drunkards. We went further along towards Uduwaka Falls. It was no better as a huge pile of garbage was near the waterfall and again full of drunkards. However we managed to shoot a few pics and do check the reckless behavior of those stupid travelers here. Wails of Uduwaka Falls

 

Almost dried out Uduwaka Falls

Almost dried out Uduwaka Falls

To the right

To the right

And the left

And the left

The middle

The middle

Purple beauty saying good bye

Purple beauty saying good bye

Check the Panos here:

Pano 1 - Tony outside picturing the surrounding

Pano 1 – Tony outside picturing the surrounding

Pano 2 - Full width of the Pettagankanda Cave

Pano 2 – Full width of the Pettagankanda Cave

The Pano of the whole sorrouning area. From Left: Dikkanda Bungalow, Maligathenna, Koskandawala and Warana

The Pano of the whole sorrouning area. From Left: Dikkanda Bungalow, Maligathenna, Koskandawala and Warana

Tony and Sanju at Alawala Cave

Tony and Sanju at Alawala Cave

Scenic Rakwana Mountains and Kanneliya Forest

$
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Year and Month February, 2014 (2nd to 4th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 5 – two adults & three kids (12,10 & 6)
Accommodation Kotapola (Relative’s place) & Kanneliya Forest Rest (091-5671867/ 077-8416565)
Transport SUV
Activities Family trip – Scenic drive & visiting Kanneliya forest
Weather Excellent weather – sunny and bright
Route
  • Day01:Colombo – > A01 -> Gelanigama -> Ratnapura -> Pelmadulla -> Kahawatha -> Madampe -> Rakwana -> Suriyakanda -> Kollonne -> Maduwanwala Walawwa -> Kelle -> Hayes -> Deniyaya -> Kotapola
  • Day02:Kotapola -> Morawaka -> Lellawala -> Neluwa -> Thawalama -> Hiniduma -> Udugama (Kanneliya)
  • Day03:Kanneliya -> Udugama -> Bar Junction -> Nagoda -> Baddegama -> A01 -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark Some roads are under construction thus causing heavy traffic and there are some very bad stretches. Note that the following roads will be under construction for quite some time.
  • Madampe -> Rakwana (heavy construction underway )
  • Morawaka -> Neluwa ( Not as bad as Rakwana Road)
Related Resources
Author Nayani
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We have been planning for a long weekend by taking Monday 3rd Feb, off – day before National day – but were not sure of our destination. Going through the options we decided on a scenic drive to Deniyaya via Buluthota Pass since we have never taken that route. We also added Lankagama waterfalls and Kanneliya forest to our list, as all these attractions were new to us.

So, on the 2nd we left Colombo around 6am and took A01 up to Gelaniyama to reach Ratnapura via Kiriella and quite enjoyed the journey along the misty winding road. From Pelmadulla we turned towards A18 and the road was good up to Madampe. Madampe – Rakwana Road was under construction and traffic was halted a number of times as trees were being cut down for road widening. We had to pass some very bad muddy patches too. Though the road was bad we enjoyed the changing scenery.
Soon we passed the 8 hair-pin bends and stopped on a number of occasions to enjoy the landscape. We could see the Rakwana mountains and the view was breathtaking.

Changing landscape of Rakwana

Changing landscape of Rakwana

Numbered Hairpin Bends…

Numbered Hairpin Bends…

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Enjoying a road-side waterfall…

Enjoying a road-side waterfall…

Passing the bends it was time for a break and we came across a road-side paella where we washed the mud off (from Rakwana road) our vehicle and also enjoyed some hot-hot poll rotti from the nearby kade.

Peella with car wash facilities

Peella with car wash facilities

After a refreshing break we passed Sooriyakanda and took the left turn from Kandamuduna to reach the peak to view the towers. But soon we had to abandon our effort as the road turned from bad to worse. The villagers assured that the bad patch will be only for about half-a-kilometer, but we did not want to take the risk – sometimes can’t rely on these “just a half kilometer” stories!

Passing Sooriyakanda

Passing Sooriyakanda

The mountain range

The mountain range

Road condition deteriorating

Road condition deteriorating

Abandoning that task we decided to visit Maduwanwala Walawwa by turning towards Kollonne from Sooriyakanda town. The road was narrow but quite all right and has not still being touched by “road development”. We reached the old Walawa by noon and spent quite some time walking from room to room in the gloomy old mansion. The restoration work has been completed and it looked quite grand from outside.

Entrance to Walawwa

Entrance to Walawwa

Walawwa as seen from the entrance..

Walawwa as seen from the entrance..

A page from history…

A page from history… – Click Image to Enlarge

Front view of main building

Front view of main building

Adjoining building – ancient court house

Adjoining building – ancient court house

Mosaic design at the entrance

Mosaic design at the entrance

One of the many courtyards

One of the many courtyards

The outer wall

The outer wall

Complicated roof

Complicated roof

Having spent almost 1-2 hours at Maduwanwala Walawwa it was time for lunch and we inquired about a safe bathing place and ended up at Makuluwathota River by the main road. It was almost dried up therefore safe for bathing and the kids enjoyed their river bath before lunch.

After lunch we headed towards Deniyaya via Kelle without going back to Suriyakanda. It is a shortcut and we joined A17 at Hayes. The view of the surrounding tea estates was quite breathtaking making us wonder whether we were in Nuwara Eliya.

Hayes landscape

Hayes landscape

We reached Deniyaya around 4pm and proceeded towards Kotapola, just 5 kms away, where we stayed the night at a relative’s place. The house was in the midst of a tea estate boarding a dola. The kids had a great time with their cousins splashing water in the dola till sun went down.

Next morning we were to leave after breakfast as we wanted to visit Lankagama waterfalls and planned to be there for lunch. But our relatives insisted that we visit Getabaru Devalaya which is an ancient temple on top of a nearby hill. The previous night we saw the lights of the Devalaya o n top of the hill and to me it looked liked the lit up udamaluwa of Sri Pada. A vehicle can go all the way to the top (nearly 2km) then you have to climb fleets of stone steps to reach the Bodhiya, Dageba and Getabaru Devalaya. You get an aerial view of Deniyaya from the top.

The cousins at Getabaru Devalaya

The cousins at Getabaru Devalaya

Sri Pathula in the shrine room

Sri Pathula in the shrine room

Fleet of steps to Udamaluwa

Fleet of steps to Udamaluwa

View from top

View from top

After observing religious rituals we returned home and it was time for a final dip in the cool and refreshing Dola before we leave.

Cool and refreshing Dola

Cool and refreshing Dola

A basin full of rambutan on the way from the Dola

A basin full of rambutan on the way from the Dola

Finally it was almost 2pm when we bid good bye to our relatives after lunch and we realized that we had to put off Lankagama tour to another day, but the kids did not mind at all as they had a grand time running about tea bushes and plucking juicy ramburan from the garden.

We proceeded to Morawaka and then to Neluwa via Lellawala. This stretch was undergoing widening and we had to move at a slow pace. From Neluwa we proceeded about 1km towards Pelwatta and took the right turn towards Lankagama. We drove about 7km along this road to reach Kosmulla Duvili Ella. The sign board there announced another 10.15kms to Lankagama.

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We bought tickets from the counter and climbed the concrete steps to view the falls. There was a crowd bathing in the man-made pool constructed at the entrance. The climb was easy but the fall was not in its full glamour may be due to lack of rain.

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

It was almost 4.30 when we came back to the ticket counter and had a cup of plain tea with hot hot pol rotti from the nearby kade. The nearby sign board showed 10.5 more kms to Lankagama and we realized it was pointless proceeding along the badly damaged road as it would be dark soon.

We came back to Neluwa and proceed towards Udugama via Thawalama to our night’s rest, Kanneliya Forest Rest. Just 3-4 kms before Udugama we turned left along an uphill road leading to Kanneliya Forest Reserve. The narrow, winding road has been recently carpeted and we reached the Forest Rest within minutes. It being a Monday the place was calm and quiet and we loved the shady environment. The sun was going down but we managed to get a cool deep in the crystal clear stream adjoining the resort. Our Room was just by the stream and it was spacious with two double beds and a clean large bathroom.

Our friends from Matara joined us with their kids at night and we all enjoyed a delicious dinner. The roof of the dining area has been done with Beru leaves and the caretaker said that they did it almost ten years ago and it is still in very good shape. (Of course it is covered with sheets)

The roof done with Beru leaves

The roof done with Beru leaves

Next morning after a filling breakfast we proceeded to the forest. We were there by 8am and we were the first group to arrive. We chose the easiest trail covering Anagi Mala Ella, the cave and giant pus wella – covering just 2.5km.

The trails

The trails

We were assigned with a guide and we started our journey enjoying the cool breeze in the morning day light. Our guide was Mr.Gunadasa and he was a wealth of knowledge and was very keen on explaining things in detail. We were fortunate to have him as our guide and it was an educational walk in the forest for the kids.

Mr. Gunadasa howing something to the kids

Mr. Gunadasa howing something to the kids

My little Tarzen

My little Tarzen

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Wallapatta plant

Wallapatta plant

......and a grown tree

…..and a grown tree

The trail went through a cave. We all had almost to crawl through it and come out at the other end to continue the trail.

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  An observation platform

An observation platform

Note the use of Beru leaves for the roof

Note the use of Beru leaves for the roof

The next attraction was the giant pus creeper. For that we had to go off the road and climb uphill through the forest.

giant pus creeper

giant pus creeper

Anagi Mala Ella was the last attraction of our chosen trail. We had to walk into the forest for more than 300 metres to see this beautiful waterfall.

 Anagi Mala Ella

Anagi Mala Ella

 Anagi Mala Ella

Anagi Mala Ella

 Anagi Mala Ella

Anagi Mala Ella

On our way back Mr. Gunadasa showed us a very rare sighting. It was the Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard – a tiny lizard about 5 inches in length – hiding amongst the dried leaves. On our own we would have never spotted the tiny creature.

Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard

Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard

When we were coming out of the forest we met many groups walking in. There were not enough guides to assist the crowds and even the officer who issued tickets in the morning was leading a group. As we were almost close to the gate Mr.Gunadasa bid us farewell and joined a group. It looked like many have chosen Kanneliya for a day outing as it is only one hour’s drive from the Baddegame exit of the Expressway.

The dormitory at park entrance

The dormitory at park entrance

We left the park around noon and went back to the Rest looking forward towards a cool dip in the stream before lunch. The rest was crowded with day visitors but many were heading towards the forest and we had the stream to ourselves. We all had a great time in the crystal clear water.

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After almost two hours in the water we headed for lunch and had very delicious rice and curry to our hearts’ content. We went back to our rooms and had a short nap before we left Kanneliya Forest Rest around 5pm. We drove via Udagama, Kurapanawa, Nagoda to Baddegama. The road was along the Gin River and the drive was very enjoyable in the fading sun. We reached Baddegama entrance and went our separate ways – they towards Matara and we towards Colmbo – with our hearts filled with pleasant memories.

FRIENDS

FRIENDS

 

Thanks for reading.

Memoirs of Occupied Ceylon and Marooned in a Fishing Village…

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Year and Month 8-9 Feb, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew 4 (Sheham, Kasun, Kasun’s Friend Asitha and Me)
Accommodation Camping at Thalawila Beach
Transport By Car
Activities Boating, Wild Life, Photography, Archaeology, Islands, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Day 1

Dehiwala->Peliyagoda->Wennappuwa->Kalpitiya->Baththalangunduwa->Kalpitiya->Thalawila.

 

Day 2

 

Thalawila->Eluwankulama->Silavathura via Old Mannar Road through Wilpattu->Arippu->Nanattan->Mannar->Pallimunai->Mannar->Settikulam->Oyamaduwa via Thanthirimale->Saliyawewa->Puttalam->Colombo.

 

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • The distance to Baththalangunduwa is about 15-16 Nautical Miles (26km).
  • Mark Boat is the only ferry between the island and the mainland and berthed at the Kalpitiya Fishery Harbour. Owner Sujith 0773-286939).
  • The ferry operates every day except Sundays. It’s always a safe option to call them and check if you’re going on a Public Holiday.
  • The ferry leaves Kalpitiya in the morning at 08.30am and reaches B’Gunduwa around 11.30am. (Roughly 3 hours of travelling time.
  • The ticket price is Rs. 270/- per person one-way. They might charge extra if you carry a lot of luggage.
  • The afternoon ferry leaves B’Gunduwa at 01.30pm and arrives at Kalpitiya around 04.30pm.
  • There are no accommodation facilities available in B’Gunduwa. Camping is an option and you might also be able to stay at the school or talk to a fisherman and bunk at one of their huts.
  • You’re not permitted to take pics at Kalpitiya Fort. Navy has a camp inside and one of them will escort you. You’ll have to produce your ID to their checkpoint.
  • The Old Mannar Road runs through the Wilpattu Junction for about 40+km. Eluwankulama is the last town before that but you’re better off getting anything from either Kalpitiya or Puttalama.
  • There’s an entrance to the Wilpattu National Park near the Kala Oya but the office didn’t look occupied.
  • Be extra careful if and when you’re driving along this road coz it’s not in a good condition and very slippery. It’s bordered either side by the Wilpattu Jungle so make sure you don’t knock any wild animal by reckless driving.
  • That road is not suitable for vehicles with low ground clearance such as cars. We had a very tough time maneuvering around in our Toyota Wagon.
  • Don’t get down and move about as it’s not safe enough to do. Avoid driving in the dark, especially early morning and evening and at night.
  • The road from Puttalam towards Eluwankulam is under construction but most of it finished and in good condition. After the Wilpattu, from Marichchukkaddi till Mannar the road is under construction but about half of it is completed.
  • Doric House and Arippu Fort are located very close to each other. (Within about 1km)
  • Mannar Fort is just off the bridge entering the peninsula to your right. The Baobab tree is along the Pallimunai Road about 600-800m away from the Fort.
  • There’s a short cut when coming towards Colombo avoiding A’Pura. Travel along Medawachchiya road till Settikulam and passing the Station you’ll come to an Army Camp with a Lord Hanuman’s Statue onto your right. Take the right road which goes through Thanthirimale towards Oyamaduwa and meets the Puttalama-A’Pura main road at Nochchiyagama.
  • Don’t disturb the Nature or do anything harmful.
  • Respect the wildlife and obey the rules.
  • Be careful travelling in the ferry.
  • Try not to disturb the fishermen and their families living in B’Gunduwa.
  • Take plenty of water or any drinks.
  • Caps or Hats are a must if you wanna avoid the scorching sun. Sunscreen is a good solution too.
  • Parking your vehicle at Fishery Harbor is possible. Do inform the security and you’ll have to pay Rs. 50/- for parking.
  • Visiting hours of Kalpitiya Fort is from 09.00am to 05.30pm.
  • Special Thanks to the Beach Traveler, Nishantha Kahawita.
  • Don’t waste water coz you gotta go see these people to know how valuable water is and we just take it for granted and waste it at will.
  • Don’t waste electricity either. You have to go see how much they suffer without electricity so save it as much as possible.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“What on earth are you hammering the keyboard so much for?” – One of my colleagues doesn’t approve my constant tapping.

“Just writing a report, you silly” – I retort.

“How many reports have you written so far?” – He’s trying to take the mickey out of me.

“Well, I don’t know. Why do you ask?” – I’m beginning to lose my cool.

“You don’t know? You’re constantly tapping on the darn keyboard but don’t even know how many reports have you done? What a funny thing?” – The bugger is relentless.

I quickly checked and found to my own amazement that there are 46 reports published under my name. Oh dear, have I seriously written that many? I asked myself.

“46” – I casually replied wanting this stupid conversation to be over.

“All of them on-line? You’re counting the ones you’ve not even written right?” – Dear God, I seriously wanna hammer this fella.

“No you snob, it’s 46 online and I’ve some unpublished ones as well” – I quickly checked and found there are 2 more to be published and 1 to be written.

“Seriously? Let’s have a look.” – God save me and my soul. I had to get this over with so decided to just let him have a peek at my desktop.

After looking through them he asks “What are you gonna do about your Half Century?”

“What half-century?” – Since when this bugger started talking in Greek?

“Your 50th report buster, what else?” – Holy Moly Guacamole!!! That one. “I ain’t decided anything yet. But now that I know, gotta do something special”.

“Oh yeah, you gotta do something very special. I’ll be waiting for that report” – What about the other reports, I felt like asking but decided to get on with my work and with that finally the end of conversation.

Wow, 50 trip reports in just over 18 months is something I’d never dreamed of. That night at home while glancing through the news I heard a magical word. Baththalangunduwa!!!

Just managed to switch it over to the proper channel and got the news. There were people and reverends protesting against taking over Baththalangunduwa fishing island from the native villagers so that our power-greedy corruptive politicians can make money by selling it to some foreigner. B’Gunduwa has been a fishing village for generations and the people who stay there have migrated from the western coastal areas such as Negombo, Chilaw, Puttalam, Mannar, etc. They feel it’s their birthright to do fishing from this island located roughly 16 nautical miles from the mainland Kalpitiya.

B’Gunduwa was not a stranger to me thanks to the Beach Traveler Program which is one of my all-time-favorites. In his tour around SL along the coast, the beach traveler (Nishantha Kahawita), travels to B’Gunduwa and spend a night there. Since then, I always wanted to go there. His program had helped me in the recent past to find places to visit and I marked it under top-priority list. However, over time, other trips made it push further back in my list.

So when I heard this on TV, everything fell into place like a long lost jigsaw puzzle. Couldn’t think of a better time to go there like the present due to two reasons.

1. Need something special for the 50th episode.

2. If the powers-that-be decided to take over this island, then no amount of protest will save it. (Having a quick look of the recent past proves this point).

So I immediately called one of my long-standing travel partner Sheham and submitted the proposal. Sheham, being Sheham, jumped in the idea and said yes without even consulting his business calendar. Next in line was the Uncle Tony but he was having a difficult time with his job and said he might not be available. Hariya had also shown a keenness to visit the island but had to give up at the last minute co he had to do the watcher man at home. The other old fella, Athua agreed to come and I just called Kasun as well. I’m thankful I called him coz he saved the day by bringing one of his friends, Asitha as Athula had to pull back due to a personal problem at home. (Second time you missed out Atha).

Day 01

So on the 8th morning, around 2.00am Sheham picked me and we drove to Wennappuwa to pick Kasun and Asitha. E3 made it really quick and when I called Kasun somewhere in the middle of E3, he was still fast asleep. Our reaching soon his friend’s place put things in motion but we politely declined an offer of cuppa coffee from Asitha’s mother as reaching Kalpitiya ASAP was top priority. I’m now a bit worried about having to waste time for flat tires and other unpredictable problems after our delay in my Rail Hike Stage 5. The going was pretty good as the roads were isolated, no poisonous gases emitting from decades old engines. Our conversation was running wild with all the topics from Area 51 to Spies of Russia to the origin of Amazon River. It was so interesting as 4 different people talking in turns about various things. The night simply wore on and we found all of a sudden that we’d reached the Kalpitiya turn off.

It was 40km from there and the road is very wide nicely done passing the Puttalam Salt Factory and staff quarters of doomed Norochcholai power plant. At certain parts the road is still being constructed, especially the bridge about 1-2km off the turn off. We made good time and closer to Kalpitiya saw a statue of a donkey on the roadside. Gosh, not an actual statue but a very still donkey in the dark. Surprisingly those donkeys at Kalpitiya area seem to be too lazy even to move a hair on their body. Wonder how on earth they manage to stay like that.

We found ourselves at the Fishery Harbor of Kalpitiya. Our entering into the premises woke the security officer and he came running to see if a boat is coming along the road instead water. I’m sure he must’ve relieved to find it’s just a car. We told him that we were planning to go spend the weekend at Baththalangunduwa (refereed as BG hereafter) camping. He was very fascinated and gave us a lot of information about the island and Kalpitiya. It was lucky that we talked to him because we prevented a near catastrophic end to our magnificent journey.

We were planning to camp in BG and return on the afternoon ferry the following day, Sunday. However, we weren’t aware of the fact that the ferry is not functioning on Sun. Even when I called the Mark Boat and told them our plans, we weren’t told about this. I guess it was a miscommunication on both parties coz we emphasized on the dates 8 and 9 instead of Sat and Sun. Thanks to the security guy we got to know this before the journey and had to resort to abort the camping and spending the night somewhere else. I felt so down but thankfully Sheham came up with the idea of camping somewhere close by and doing the Puttalam-Mannar stretch on the following day.

None of us had done it before so it was a very welcome idea and we all embraced it with both hands. You know there’s a saying that “Everything happens for good” and we too thought as much and at the end of the journey figured it really happened for good as we managed to cover a whole lot of things in that 48 hours instead of only camping at BG. We had our breakfast of Tempered onions mixed with chilies, tomatoes and boiled eggs with sliced bread. The morning sun was creeping over the horizon and lit up the jetty full of different sized boats arrived in the night after a long stretch of fishing. Suddenly Kasun shouted and looking back I saw this glowing lava ball like Sun appearing at the edge of the horizon. What a sight it was!

I simply forgot the breakfast and Kasun ruined his hanky trying to wipe the curry-stained hands to get at the camera. We savored it to the max while the crows were coming in numbers sensing a free meal. There were a few dogs too and they had a rough time chasing the greedy crows. We shared the last bit of our bread with them coz the sunrise filled our heats and lifted our spirits. Finally we were ready to rock ‘n’ roll.

Tour Highlights:

1. 6-Hour ferry ride in total

2. Baththalangunduwa, a world of its own

3. Documentary on the Fight for Water in BG

4. Dutch Fort, Kalpitiya

5. Camping at Thalawila

6. Drive through the Wilpattu along Old Mannar Road

7. Doric House

8. Dutch Fort, Arippu

9. Portuguese & Dutch Fort, Mannar

10. Biggest Baobab Tree, Pallimunai

11. Pics of My Sister

12. Collection of Panos

We decided to visit the Kalpitiya Dutch Fort before the departure of ferry at 8.30am. When went to the entrance about 200m away from the jetty the navy officials informed us the visiting hours are from 09.00am till 5.00pm. Then we told them about our failed attempt at camping on BG and won’t be able to make it on time to see the fort. Then they said even till 5.30pm it would be ok so we left for the jetty yet again.

Longest Ferry Ride to date

I called Sujith and told him that we were at the jetty and he too was very confused about our miscommunication but could do nothing at the time. However he promised to inform the manager of the Ferry about us and give us a bit of breathing space in case we were a bit late on the return journey. Paul came and talked to us and the two helpers on the ferry were very cheerful and pointed us to sit on the shady side and took care of our 2 5-litre water bottles.

There were a lot of people waiting to get on board and many sacks of different kinds of goods were also being loaded into the cargo bay underneath. This ferry is the only connection between the island and the mainland. You could even say it’s the lifeline of those people. There are a plenty of small fishing craft that can run between the two but for those fishermen doing it between the island and the mainland is very costly, about Rs. 3500/- – Rs. 4000/- worth fuel which is way too much for their liking.

So the ferry is the only viable method of transporting people and goods in between. However we felt that there’s too much dependent on this single ferry giving a kind of monopoly to the owners. Just wondering what it would be like if the ferry stopped operating due to a malfunction for a few days. I hope they have replacement in place but didn’t see any sign of it. We boarded and sat along the shady edge. The layout is kinda funny coz the boat is three-tiered. The bottom (under the waterline) is the crew quarters, washroom and cargo bay. The mid-section above the water line is the passenger hold. Passengers sit on a wooden platform that provides little or no comfort (Beggars can’t be choosers, I guess) especially when the sea is rough. Thankfully it was nice and calm when we were on board. Above it is the roof-cum cargo-passenger hold without a shelter. I guess it’s a good viewing spot especially in the morning run but you’re bound to get sun burned due to direct exposure.

We were relieved to be on the shady side as the boat finally laden with so many essential items and about 50 people left the safety of the jetty into the Dutch Bay. It’s actually the extension of Puttalm lagoon along the arm of Kalpitiya Peninsula on the left and Eluwankulama and Wilpattu Jungle on the right. If you wanna look for BG on the map, just look right across the Kudiramale Point to the left about 5-6 nautical miles off. The navy boys look less busy now the terrorists are wiped off the face of our country. However, they have to stay vigilant as the stinking Indians continuously breaching our sea areas and the biggest threat for our youth, the illegal drug smuggling too seems to be happening across Negombo via Jaffna along the North Western coast.

About half hour into the journey somebody yelled “Dolphins” and we were so excited and forgot for a moment that we were sitting at the edge of the boat. There were about 5-6 dolphins jumping but we couldn’t take clear shots of them as the front of the ferry had a row of people sitting. I managed to get a quick pic of a dolphin but not prominent enough. Unfortunately our ferry wasn’t in the mood to hover about and see them and sadly we passed them behind. It was my first encounter with dolphins and what a sight it was.

There were a number of tiny islets full of Kadolana trees scattered along the arm of the peninsula and the mainland too. They looked green against a blue-grey-emerald green lagoon. I found the team talking to someone and found he’s a fisherman from Negombo located at BG returning to the island. His name was Nissanka and provided us with valuable information. There was plenty of time to kill and we kept chatting with him while shooting the odd picture. All of a sudden we saw a group of Pelicans flying towards us, they were not so big and we had difficulty identifying them at first. After that there was a single Pelican so skinny flying overhead that I named the Somali Pelican.

Video 01 – Just a short video of the ferry journey.

There were an endless number of sea gulls crashing like a stone and catching fish and at times floating on the water with the waves like ducks. We got fooled at first they were real ducks. The average speed of the ferry was about 8-10km an hour. It recorded a highest speed of around 20km according to Sheham’s GPS. Time wore on and all of a sudden Nissanka showed us a distant communications tower which was at BG Navy Camp. Without even knowing we had moved from Dutch Bay to Portugal Bay but for me it was the same lagoon or rather the sea. However the water looks more clean and clear than it was close to the mainland. We could clearly see the ocean floor and the depth can’t have been more than 10ft. The water looked a gorgeous emerald green too.

There was thing that happened on the ferry I found so hilarious that I couldn’t resist laughing out loud. There was a group of travelers going to BG for a reason they didn’t know. Most of them were middle age fellas with pot bellies and a few kids with their mothers too. They were staring at us as if we’d descended that very moon from the mighty Jupiter. While we were talking among ourselves and with Nissanka, they looked at us open-mouthed as if we spoke Greek. The ladies (as usual) were very curious about what’s going on around and kept asking odd question from whoever was close to them. However, one lady found it too irresistible to wait any longer with her question and asked one of the ferrymen. I couldn’t help overhearing the most hilarious conversation in 2014.

The lady: “Meke Saththuth Innawada” – “Are there animals on the island?”

The ferry worker: “Apo Innawa” – “Of course, there are”

The lady: “Mokkuda Inne” – “What kind of animals?”

The ferry worker: “Ballo, Harak” – “Dogs and Cow”

I can assure you the real conversation in Sinhalese was far better than my sloppy translation. The lady was very serious about the question and the worker very sincerely replied to her. I couldn’t help laughing nonstop and soon had to divulge it to my team mates who couldn’t control their hysterical laughs.

The lagoon was too shallow so we kept going in an arc to reach the island coz the heavily laden ferry couldn’t risk of running aground. We kept sipping the lime and mint drink brought by Sheham and it was a godsend as we felt the heat taking its toll. There are two islands joined by a narrow sand strip which are Palliya Watta and BG. At times they get separated when the sandy bank is submerged in the tide. There’d been another island named Karathivu but now it rests peacefully under water. When the tide is out the sand banks might appear but the rising sea levels have taken care of it.

We saw just off BG some divers with face masks on as if they were snorkeling. Looking at the sea didn’t reveal anything to go snorkeling for and one of the fishermen on board solved that mystery to us. He said that those were fishermen doing a part-time job of collecting “Sangu”. It’s the Tamil name for “Hakgediya” or “Conch Shell” in English. Apparently those are a sign of good luck and sell like hot cakes among superstitious rich folks.

 

The sun is appearing in the horizon

The sun is appearing in the horizon

Navy boat returning to the camp after a night patrol

Navy boat returning to the camp after a night patrol

Busy at work early in the morning

Busy at work early in the morning

Just appearing

Just appearing

Wow

Wow

Fiery looking lava ball

Fiery looking lava ball

Parked along the jetty

Parked along the jetty

Very important notice

Very important notice

This craft (Sudu Duwa) was freed by the Indian Authorities after the agreement

This craft (Sudu Duwa) was freed by the Indian Authorities after the agreement

1 million fine? Oh dear

1 million fine? Oh dear

Cubes of ice is being taken to the waiting fishing craft

Cubes of ice is being taken to the waiting fishing craft

Captured Indian vessels illegally fishing in our waters

Captured Indian vessels illegally fishing in our waters

Done a good job of building this

Done a good job of building this

The Ferry

The Ferry

Another boat that carries tourists around

Another boat that carries tourists around

Team ready to rock 'n' roll

Team ready to rock ‘n’ roll

Peering at the Navy camp

Peering at the Navy camp

Paul, the manager is overseeing things

Paul, the manager is overseeing things

Being loaded onto the ferry

Being loaded onto the ferry

Crowded

Crowded

Leaving the jetty

Leaving the jetty

Another Navy craft returning to the jetty, they moved dangerously close to us

Another Navy craft returning to the jetty, they moved dangerously close to us

The lush greenery islands

The lush greenery islands

Another large fishing craft

Another large fishing craft

Cheerful worker on the bow

Cheerful worker on the bow

Nissanka on the left

Nissanka on the left

Trying to reach to the roof

Trying to reach to the roof

First-ever Dolphin sighting

First-ever Dolphin sighting

The sea gulls like sitting ducks

The sea gulls like sitting ducks

Cargo hold is providing shelters for workers and their close friends

Cargo hold is providing shelters for workers and their close friends

Getting their catch to the boat

Getting their catch to the boat

The mother ship with the Conch Shell collectors

The mother ship with the Conch Shell collectors

Got you

Got you

Portugal bay water is more clean and emerald green

Portugal bay water is more clean and emerald green

The comms tower in sight

The comms tower in sight

Got there

Got there

Climbing down the ladder

Climbing down the ladder

The Uniquely Placed Fishing Island – Baththalangunduwa

After it felt like an eternity, we reached the BG but there was no jetty. Instead they had improvised a ladder along which you have climb down and jump to the sandy beach. I had to jump a bit further to avoid getting my shoes wet. The strong smell of fish hit us in waves but not so bad. I guess those fishermen might not be able to take that off them for a long time, might even be lasting a lifetime. There was a row of fishing huts where the 15hp-engined craft were parked under the shade of woven coconut leaves. The whole island looked less busy coz the fishing is done for the day and most of the folks were dozing after a hard run at sea from the early morning.

There were people inside those huts sorting out fish (mainly small one such as Hurulla, Salaya, Karalla, Keeramin and a new kind called Kohombaya which sounded funny), cutting them and adding salt to prepare for dried fish. To be honest I don’t think they welcome the outsiders but stay quiet. So should you ever go there, be sure to stay out of their way as much as possible. However we found some of the keen ones inviting us to take pics of their catch. The people at BG speak mainly Tamil and Sinhalese, however there’s some strange dialect unique to them but no name. It’s a mixture of Sinhalese and Tamil. The Sinhalese and Tamil speakers of the mainland find it difficult to understand this.

E.g. They’d say “Enge Yanne?” – Enge is a Tamil word meaning “Where” and Yanne is a Sinhalese word meaning “Going”. So they are asking “Where are you going?” in a mixture of Tamil and Sinhalese. Uncle Tony knows this a lot better, so should you ever come across him, do ask. He has some very interesting things to say.

So many interesting things and we enjoyed this unprecedented journey even though the sun was up and running full blast sending scorching rays mercilessly as if to fend us off. Walking along the fishing huts didn’t provide us with many landscape shots and we decided to go to the other side. We saw the makeshift wells made by digging holes in the sand burying plastic cans about 3-4 feet deep. No doubt the water is salty but they’re using that water to do cleaning pots and other utensils. The water off the beach is not so good due to garbage and rotting fish. I even saw a couple of toilets too. Wonder how they manage to dig holes without them collapsing on their own in the sand.

Crossing all this we reached the other side of the island which is about half a kilo meter and devoid of any construction. It’s a crystal clear beach but about 50ft off the beach is their main toilet too. So watch your step folks. Funnily enough it also doubles as their waterhole where they dig holes in the sand about 2ft deep looking for less brackish water. They use it to drink and bathe. The beach was however clear of the garbage save for a group of travelers who came with us in the ferry started drinking. Can you imagine the length people go just to get drunk? I was aghast.

Avoiding the drinking party we kept exploring the beach and saw a navy water jet hovering about 3-4 nautical miles off. All of a sudden we came across a Star fish but a dead one. Never seen one before except on TV so this was a very nice encounter. There were plenty of them along the beach so we took pics of them both sides. Sea shells were very common and there were very artistic ones too which didn’t escape our exploring eyes and lens. Sheham kept reminding us about the time so we decided to walk about half a kilo meter further and take a sharp turn back to where we got off.

All of a sudden one guy materialized out of nowhere and was heading towards the beach. About half way back he squatted down and we knew what he was up to. After a few minutes he got up and left; no water or tissue. That’s the way they’re living with no hygienic facilities yet making a living and sending hundreds of tons of fish to feed us Sri Lankans. Then there were 3 guys coming towards us and we saw dug holes in the sand marking their waterhole. They were very cheerful guys and chatted with us while one of them dug the sand looking for water.

Digging water out of those sandy areas is such a cumbersome thing in a way yet very simple in another aspect. They just choose a spot clear of garbage or anything else and dig a hole in a circular way about 2 feet deep and another 2 feet in diameter. You have to do it very systematically so as not to have the walls collapsing on you. The water will slowly come up as if from a spring. Then using a small plastic cup they’d fill a larger container. According to those guys you can fill about 2-3 fairly large containers with a volume of roughly 10-20 liters.

Video 02 – The struggle to dig water at Baththalangunduwa.

They told us how difficult their lives were due to the lack of water and do switch on your headphones and listen to their story. However on the ferry Nissanka claimed that it’s so surprising that they even have this kind of drinkable water in BG coz it’s practically very small and nowhere to get fresh water. They gave us a clear cup of water to taste which Asitha sampled. He claimed it was not so bad. So it shows that miracles do happen. It’s very costly to bring water from Kalpitiya costing about Rs. 500/- for a gallon of water including all the transport costs. Just imagine how lucky we really are. Therefore please by all means save water and electricity. We offered them some of the mineral water carried with us and they very hungrily took it and gulped it down. Wish we had more water with us. They’re supposed to close the waterhole after as dogs and crows will feed on it dirtying it.

After witnessing this we decided to call it a day and head back to where we got off. It was so hot and sun was very much unforgiving. Nonetheless we were very much content deep down coz this was a life-time experience. There were many solar panels in their houses along with a few TV antennas as well. We then saw a generator near one house and the secret behind the TVs was solved finally. There were plenty of kids too playing around and can’t imagine their lives being stuck in a tiny island with nothing more than sea and fish. There were plenty of cows and dogs as well. I’d never seen such bored dogs coz they simply stared at fish and dried fish as if they didn’t give a toss. The dried fish was drying in the open as none of the dogs would bother stealing them.

Cats were no different. They too look fed up of fish and dried fish. I just imagine taking a few hundred dogs and cats from mainland and dropping them there for a few hours. They’d have a field day and need to be hospitalized for over eating. There was one shop selling the day to day items but we didn’t have time to venture into it. Having reached back where we were well before the ferry departure time gave us time to recollect our thoughts. The ferry wasn’t there which gave us a jolt but around 1.30pm it was coming towards us having toured around couple of other places dropping and taking cargo and people. The stop we got off is called Sinna Gunduwa (small Gunduwa).

It was time to go and we bid our farewell to this unique place and got on board the less crowded ferry. Once again we were lucky to get the seating on the shady side facing Wilpattu and Eluwankulama. Funny thing was there were quite a few small fishing boats catching up with the ferry bringing more passengers and cargo, mainly fish or dried fish packed tightly in cardboard or rigifoam boxes. It was so fun to listen to the exchange between boats and their dialect was completely off my limits. The going was more or less easier compared to the morning one as the waves were rolling along with us instead of towards us. I could figure out the beloved Gange Wadiya in the distance with the Navy RABS (Rapid Action Boat Squadron) camp clearly visible. You can read our Gange Wadiya Adventure over here if interested.

The Kala Oya and the Kumburawa River where the Elephant Tree (allegedly the second largest Baobab tree in SL) located were easy to distinguish. Aruwakkalu Limestone Quarry was also there and the destruction is clearly visible from the ferry. There’s a stretch about 4km all looking reddish at places among replanted trees. This is where they’ve dug deep and extracted the limestone for producing cement. This area is a frequent living place for the Camalian but this kinda destruction doesn’t help their well-being. It won’t be long before they’ll be extinct from this are. This exploration keeps on going at a more devastatingly speed. Repercussions of privatization are clear for all to see.

We got a big fright when I saw one of the workers unloading bucket after bucket of oily water from the below deck and went to inspect. To my horror water was leaking inside and the worker was working furiously to get them out of the boat as quickly as possible. The mainland was looming closer so we felt somewhat subdued. It was a back-breaking task but he kept at it.

Video 03 – Back breaking task of unloading water of the BG ferry on return journey.

We got back at the jetty around 4.30pm and said our thanks to Paul and his assistants. Got back to the car and had a long pull on the lemon and mint drink and headed towards the Kalpitiya Dutch Fort.

 

The fishing huts are all along the beach

The fishing huts are all along the beach

Yet another fishing raft

Yet another fishing raft

That day's cache

That day’s cache

It's the season of small fish such as Salaya, Hurulla, Karalla and Keeramin

It’s the season of small fish such as Salaya, Hurulla, Karalla and Keeramin

Temporary shelters for the boats and people sorting out the fish

Temporary shelters for the boats and people sorting out the fish

Few big ones too

Few big ones too

Getting the dried fish ready

Getting the dried fish ready

Imagine the taste of fried Karalla

Imagine the taste of fried Karalla

Dogs and cats are nowhere near. They’re bored to death of the sight of these

Dogs and cats are nowhere near. They’re bored to death of the sight of these

Here's the Kohombaya

Here’s the Kohombaya

Temporary well for washing the crockery

Temporary well for washing the crockery

They are playing

They are playing

Not many trees like these

Not many trees like these

Long stretch with plenty of coconut leaf roofed houses

Long stretch with plenty of coconut leaf roofed houses

Water buffalo? Up close it's actually a dog in the water coz it's too hot even for them

Water buffalo? Up close it’s actually a dog in the water coz it’s too hot even for them

During the high tide all these areas get flooded with sea water

During the high tide all these areas get flooded with sea water

Very beautiful

Very beautiful

Never thought she'd look this nice when I took it

Never thought she’d look this nice when I took it

One of the waterholes

One of the waterholes

Yet another waterhole but I initially thought it's croc

Yet another waterhole but I initially thought it’s croc

The team

The team

One of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen

One of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen

Sea shell X'mas tree, made by Sri

Sea shell X’mas tree, made by Sri

Colorful shells all around

Colorful shells all around

Eroded by the continues lapping of sea water

Eroded by the continues lapping of sea water

Black Pearl?

Black Pearl?

Here's the star of the day - Starfish

Here’s the star of the day – Starfish

Belly of it

Belly of it

Looked nice through the lens

Looked nice through the lens

Some life on the unforgiving soil

Some life on the unforgiving soil

If they were in dark fatigues, you'd mistake them for a group of soldiers

If they were in dark fatigues, you’d mistake them for a group of soldiers

Just beginning the ordeal of water digging

Just beginning the ordeal of water digging

Eurekhaaaaaaaaa!!!

Eurekhaaaaaaaaa!!!

Managed to fill two containers, one of which is a rigifoam box

Managed to fill two containers, one of which is a rigifoam box

This one is poisonous I think. Name is Puffer fish if I'm not mistaken

This one is poisonous I think. Name is Puffer fish if I’m not mistaken

Pack of sea gulls disturbed by our presence

Pack of sea gulls disturbed by our presence

Stunning colors

Stunning colors

They must be leading a pretty difficult life with barely any grass and drinking water

They must be leading a pretty difficult life with barely any grass and drinking water

Taken some measures to make sure they're not exposed to dogs and cats

Taken some measures to make sure they’re not exposed to dogs and cats

Getting ready to pack and send to the mainland

Getting ready to pack and send to the mainland

Plenty of these all around

Plenty of these all around

Sigh of relief, here she comes to pick us up

Sigh of relief, here she comes to pick us up

They kept coming in boats like this and catching up with the ferry

They kept coming in boats like this and catching up with the ferry

After the cargo and passengers are on board back to work

After the cargo and passengers are on board back to work

How on earth can they sleep here?

How on earth can they sleep here?

Not for long coz he had to get busy with water leaking

Not for long coz he had to get busy with water leaking

Back breaking task

Back breaking task

Bored

Bored

The pilot maneuvering the craft with his left foot. Look closely

The pilot maneuvering the craft with his left foot. Look closely

Looking at the back

Looking at the back

Navy on constant patrols

Navy on constant patrols

Navy jetty

Navy jetty

Here we are and the carts are already waiting for goods unloading

Here we are and the carts are already waiting for goods unloading

Waiting to jump out

Waiting to jump out

Time to go

Time to go

Kalpitiya Dutch Fort and Camping at Thalawila

There are no pics to show you of the Kalpitiya Fort which is so much irritating. We went to the gate and Navy people took about 15 mins making up their minds and getting someone to escort us inside. “No Cameras or Phones” was their motto and we felt so frustrated having gone there all the way not being able to take a pic of this piece of wonderful creation. The soldier who took us gave a running commentary as if replaying a recorded cassette. I’m sure he’s done it hundreds of times and now it’s more like listening to a computer operated robot. However he was very friendly and answered our questions as best as he could. Inside it was a disaster as Navy had added numerous structures and using the interior open area as their playground.

However on a previous visit Sheham and his team had been given the permission to take pics by their escort but they’d left all their camera equipment in the cars. So it looks different messages are being conveyed at different times. There were two tunnels inside but now blocked by the earth and one was barricaded by a brick wall due to terror attacks. That soldier had tried to venture into them without success. Apparently this tunnel leads to a nearby church and the home of the commander of that time. The church is still there about 500m away from the fort complex.

It was a pity to see the current status of the fort due to the negligence by the archaeological department and additions by the navy. True they (Navy) did an outstanding job of protecting our coastal line but I think it’s time they moved out of this place and let the visitors enjoy it and take pics without all this hustle and bustle. We didn’t even have this much hassle at the top of Piduruthalagala where they have the most sensitive radar installations.

Out of sheer frustration, I asked when the Navy was planning to move and the soldier said that the archaeological department had inspected the place and will soon take over. Finally some good news but it means another trip to Kalpitiya too. After that we decided to camp around Kalpitiya and do the Mannar tour on the following morning. Having talked to numerous people about an ideal camping slot and came up with two options. 1. Kandakuli, 2. Thalawila. We, after a lot of thinking, decided on the latter. It turned out to be a wise decision and we hurried on hoping to catch the sunset. Passing “Ali Rani Palace” notice put up by the archaeological department made me wanna go there too but Kasun said that there’s hardly anything to look, just a bare unexplored area so abandoned that notion.

First- Ever Camping on the Beach, Thalawila

We reached Thalawila church around 5.40pm, well in time for the sunset and found a grassy patch just off the beach devoid of any thick bushes for camping. Doomed Norochcholai was looming in the distance and for a change working. It was belching a streak of black fumes towards the Indian Ocean signaling that it was doing something worthwhile for the money spent. From what I’ve heard, it’s been out of commission more than 50% of the time it’s been installed here. Some record.

There were wind mills too about 2km away from us. Thalawila is a very popular church among Catholics who come in large numbers during the festival season. However this being a quiet time, not many were there. Rows of houses roused my curiosity and found out they’re available for rent and get full very quickly during the festival. “For 2014 festival, already all the houses are booked”, one of the caretakers told us. We set about putting up the tent which was the biggest I’ve ever slept in. It was a massive 7-man tent but we managed to set it up in a record 20 mins. The sun was setting and we managed to shoot on and off while setting up the tent. The sandy ground made it difficult to hold the tent with 8-inch guy pins. (Those are the ones buried into the ground to hold the tent together, funny name nevertheless).

We had to use a few stones too to keep it in place. In the meantime Kassa and Asitha had gone and sweet talked one of the caretakers and arranged a washroom in one of the houses for us to have a wash. It was a very welcome thing as we badly needed to have a shower and was wondering where to go. After the camp setup we took the gas cooker and started boiling instant noodles packets and heating the pre-cooked canned chicken meat balls. The dark enveloped us quickly but a half moon lit the whole open area beautifully. Moon rays were reflecting on the still ocean surface and it was a night good for a poet.

We gobbled up the hot noodles mixed with steaming chicken meatballs, left over tempered onions and boiled eggs from breakfast. To top things off, there was a loaf of bread too. What a feast! We badly needed this kinda meal coz we were without lunch. After a sumptuous meal, we decided to turn in for the night. The tent was more spacious and we had ample room to sleep. We settled in for the night, listening for the rustle the wind made by disturbing the flaps of our tent. The waves kissed the beach in small waves making very little noise as if not to disturb us. I fell asleep and slept like a log till 5.00am.

 

Moored at sea off Thalawila

Moored at sea off Thalawila

No light house but the statue of St. Anne's on top of that tower

No light house but the statue of St. Anne’s on top of that tower

Hiya

Hiya

One of the dumbest projects, Norochcholai finally belching black smoke

One of the dumbest projects, Norochcholai finally belching black smoke

Ready to set

Ready to set

Getting redder

Getting redder

Almost sunk

Almost sunk

The biggest tent I've slept to date

The biggest tent I’ve slept to date

Chicken meat balls and eggs are ready

Chicken meat balls and eggs are ready

6 packs of noodles to go with it

6 packs of noodles to go with it

The tent in the torch light and the blue light is coming from the tower

The tent in the torch light and the blue light is coming from the tower

Day 02

Getting up, after a very good night’s sleep was a blessing and we boiled water and had Nescafe 3 in 1. It revived our bodies and we went back for our borrowed washroom to wash and get ready. By 7am, we were ready to go and bid our farewell to the friendly caretaker and were on our way merrily.

 

Good Morning! everyone

Good Morning! everyone

Busily folding the tent

Busily folding the tent

Here he comes

Here he comes

Look at the halo

Look at the halo

Sweet

Sweet

Still there where it was

Still there where it was

Busy at work in the morning

Busy at work in the morning

Laying the nets

Laying the nets

Another ready to get going

Another ready to get going

Puttalam lagoon, one of the biggest in SL

Puttalam lagoon, one of the biggest in SL

These are a familiar sight for me

These are a familiar sight for me

Going towards Eluwankulam

Going towards Eluwankulam

Old Mannar Road via Wilpattu, Doric House and Arippu Fort

We left Thalawila and headed towards Kalpitiya turn off. Reaching Puttalam starving wasn’t an easy thing to do. So we stopped to buy some buns and headed back towards Eluwankulama. The road is under construction but done quite a lot since our last visit to Gange Wadiya in Oct 2013. Passing Eluwankulama junction where the turn off for Gange Wadiya we headed further up towards the Navy camp where the Kala Oya borders the southernmost boundary of legendary Wilpattu. There was a barrier across the road with a navy soldier on guard. You don’t need any permission to go on this road but they’re checking the vehicles for any smuggling goods or taking animals too.

I hope they’re doing the same thing for the vehicles coming out of the park too coz the chances are very high for people to smuggle animals or plants out. He explicitly asked us not to photograph around their camp. Ban the photographers is the theme for them. We reached the Sapaththu Palama and Kala Oya was gushing not over but underneath, almost touching the top. It was a super duper place for camping as there’s plenty of fresh water and scores of Kumbuk Trees are providing cool shade throughout. No chance of getting permission I guess.

Video 04 – The Southernmost boundary of Wilpattu, Kala Oya

There was park office near the Kala Oya to enter the Wilpattu but looked isolated. The gravel path is uneven making it very hard for low clearance vehicles to maneuver. There’s very little traffic mainly the people either side (Silavathura and Eluwankulama) of the jungle moving from one area to the other. We saw motorbikes, small Lorries and even passenger buses going in this road. Puttalam-Mannar buses use this road. It must be noted that the bus drivers are very reckless in this road. They travel at high speeds putting both passengers and animals lives in danger.

There was one CTB bus of Mannar Depot (WP NA – 7032) travelling as if this was the Expressway about 60-70kmph. It was crazy driving totally unacceptable. There were a couple of Navy checkpoints inside the jungle taking down the vehicle numbers. I wonder why they don’t do something about these maniac drivers. There were quite a few tanks we passed along the way. Periya Villu, Periya Naga Villu, Malai Villu, Mailanganmotte and Karanchiuttan are a few of them. After a very scenic drive on a slippery gravel road, we reached the northernmost boundary of Wilpattu which is the Modara River (Modara Gan Maruwa). There was a checkpoint at Marichchukkadi the first village after the jungle. There too and those soldiers were fascinated to hear what we were doing and gonna do.

From there the road was in good condition but still under construction at most parts. Passing Mullikulam and Silavathura where the SL Army’s first offensive into the northern terror-held areas was bringing back the memories of valiant sacrifices made by our soldiers. Our first stop was Doric House which just by the road. There’s a tall white pyramid shaped monument close by. 2 Navy officers were on guard duty and talked to us were very friendly.

Doric House is nearly crumpling to the beach below. If I’m not mistaken the entire top floor is fallen off and the majority of the ground floor too is in pieces on the beach below. It was clear that nobody had taken any effort to restore this place other than putting up some sign postings. The walls are crumbling down and our Archeological Department gotta do something real soon to avoid this being fallen completely to the beach. There was color poster showing how it looked in 1804 and in 2012. The difference is heart breaking. Apparently this is where the first British Governor of Ceylon, Fredrick North resided while overseeing the pearls fishery in the North West Coast. The Arippu fort was built to safeguard the collected pearls with a garrison placed.

From Doric House, it was a short drive to the Arippu Fort. Not so difficult to find with well-placed signage. It too was crumbling down and nearby farmer had tied a calf inside showing that authorities don’t get there often enough. It was only the mere Archeological Notice going rusty that tried to fend these trespassers off. The funniest part was the name of the Pradeshiya Sabha in this area. It’s called “Musali Pradeshiya Sabha” and you all know what it means in Sinhala.

 

Just before the barrier entering the jungle road

Just before the barrier entering the jungle road

The Sapaththu Palama through the shady Kumbuk Trees

The Sapaththu Palama through the shady Kumbuk Trees

What a nice place for a bath

What a nice place for a bath

Lovely

Lovely

Imagine what it'd be like when the water levels are too high

Imagine what it’d be like when the water levels are too high

Towards the Navy camp. Wonder what those summer huts are for?

Towards the Navy camp. Wonder what those summer huts are for?

Here's the isolated Entrance office

Here’s the isolated Entrance office

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

Managed to get only him out of plenty of birds

Managed to get only him out of plenty of birds

Reaching to the infinity

Reaching to the infinity

Oh dear, so far to go

Oh dear, so far to go

This is the culprit bus who was driving like a bullet out of the gun

This is the culprit bus who was driving like a bullet out of the gun

Doric Bungalow is just by the road

Doric Bungalow is just by the road

The monument like tower about 50m away from the house

The monument like tower about 50m away from the house

Dilapidated house

Dilapidated house

Only the bare bones

Only the bare bones

Those skinny pillars won't stand long.

Those skinny pillars won’t stand long.

More than 50% of the bungalow is down at the beach due to negligence and 3 decades of war

More than 50% of the bungalow is down at the beach due to negligence and 3 decades of war

What it was like 2 centuries ago

What it was like 2 centuries ago

In 2009 but now it's worse

In 2009 but now it’s worse

Sheham on the steps to the first floor but nothing to see

Sheham on the steps to the first floor but nothing to see

Only the skeletal structures of the ground floor to see

Only the skeletal structures of the ground floor to see

Just like a tank, no waves. Very still

Just like a tank, no waves. Very still

Trying to get down to the beach

Trying to get down to the beach

Very sad looking state

Very sad looking state

Gotta do something very soon

Gotta do something very soon

On the left are the two navy personnel

On the left are the two navy personnel

From the beach below

From the beach below

Huge chunks had fallen to the beach

Huge chunks had fallen to the beach

Artistic sea plants on the beach

Artistic sea plants on the beach

Making sand houses

Making sand houses

Don't get many like these in the dry zone

Don’t get many like these in the dry zone

200m to the left from the main road

200m to the left from the main road

The story behind

The story behind

Protected by a fence but no guard

Protected by a fence but no guard

Being used to keep cattle I suppose

Being used to keep cattle I suppose

Nothing has been done to restore it

Nothing has been done to restore it

The front is like a church. This is a tactic used by all of them Portuguese, Dutch and the English to fool the SL kings

The front is like a church. This is a tactic used by all of them Portuguese, Dutch and the English to fool the SL kings

Not much left standing

Not much left standing

Plenty of these white flowers

Plenty of these white flowers

Leaving

Leaving

Well, no words to explain the hilariousness of the name

Well, no words to explain the hilariousness of the name

Pooh...

Pooh…

The long causeway joining the Mannar Island to the mainland

The long causeway joining the Mannar Island to the mainland

Mannar Fort and the Biggest Baobab Tree in SL

Then we crossed the famous Malwathu Oya and entered Nananttan Area. From there it was pretty straight forward journey to Mannar through world famous bird sanctuary, Vankalai. However in Nananttan, the roads can be a bit confusing, so don’t forget to ask for directions. The road joins the Mannar-Medawachchiya main road just before the causeway. Along the causeway we saw two white lines in the distance lagoon. We were anyway looking for the gorgeous looking flamingoes and looking through Sheham’s 500mm lens proved they really were flamingoes. Such beautiful looking pinkish birds were my first encounter with them. Wish we had a small raft to get close to them and take a closer look.

Just passing the bridge that connects the causeway to the Mannar Island we saw the Mannar fort to our right. It’s so close and we got the first right hand turn and travelled for about 400m towards it. This fort like Galle and Jaffna are in a better condition. The complex is huge with plenty of buildings bordering the perimeter. One special place inside is the Church inside with gravestones along the floor of it. I think the same thing can be witnessed at the Church inside the Galle Fort which is still functioning.

We walked along the perimeter wall and noticed the man-made moat like thing using the water from lagoon. Pretty smart move huh! After a thorough inspection we went searching for the Baobab tree and got directions from the Army checkpoint. It’s about 600-800m away from the Fort along Pallimunai Road which is the second right from the bridge.

Reaching and looking at this mammoth tree was something wonderful. Its bark is so thick and charcoal grey in color, exactly like an elephant’s. It’s even got parts of the trunk popping out like an elephant’s foot with their big toes. What a gigantic piece of creation by the Mother Nature. Time was in short supply so we hurried up and got back on the road and reach a shop called “Rice Bowl” near the Giant’s Tank maintained by the Army. The food was tasty and very reasonable. We even got the info about one of their Holiday Bungalows called “Kamatha” in the area. I’ve put a pic of their poster on the report.

After a hearty lunch and directions to shorten our journey we reached Settikulam and took a turn towards Oyamaduwa via Thanthirimale. Ultimately this joins the Nochchiyagama Junction on Puttalam-A’Pura Road. We stopped for a quick cup of tea at Pelpatha (Remember My Short Report with lots of birds). There is a giant squirrel there called “Nangi” and she’s a darling I can tell you. She’d been injured and treated by the hotel’s staff and now nestles in the Tamarind Tree inside the hotel itself. If you call her “Nangi”, she’ll come running and even let me stroke her fur. Such an adorable darling! She got frightened when Kasun tried to come near her (don’t ask me why) and Asitha managed to give her a cheese cracker. She grabbed and ran up the tree and settled onto eat it dearly.

Video 05 – Nangi having a Cheese Cracker

I could’ve spent the whole evening with her bus others were adamant on leaving. So we left for Colombo but managed to stop for another breathtaking sunset along the Puttalam-Colombo road.

Video 06 – Sunset on Puttalam-Colombo Road

After a heartfelt journey of 700+km and 48 hours of joy and fun we got back home while dropping Asitha at Wennappuwa and for the second time declining an offer for dinner.

50 Trip Reports!!! Who would’ve thought of this when I first sent in my first one in July 2012? Even I can’t believe I’ve written so much during the past 18+ months. Lakdasun has provided a great platform not only for travelers, but for writers too like me to horn their writing skills. I’ve seen so much of this paradise island in the past 18 months but compared to what’s more to do, it’s nothing.

Thank you all my friends who’d been there encouraging me to travel more and write more and more. Hopefully there’ll be more from me.

Will see you in the next episode and this is Sri signing off for now.

Take care

P.S. Numerous attempts by me to find how the Baththalangunduwa name came by went without success. Therefore I came up with my own conclusion in the end.

Baththalangunduwa could mean “Bathalayekuta Dun Gunduwa” which means Cheating a Rotund Fella. Just trying to add my mockery into this. Don’t get it serious folks.

 

The lagoon along the causeway

The lagoon along the causeway

Drinking milk from the mother

Drinking milk from the mother

The last bridge joining the Mannar Island to the causeway

The last bridge joining the Mannar Island to the causeway

The fort is just there

The fort is just there

Signs of the moat

Signs of the moat

The entrance is there

The entrance is there

Still lagoon to the right. Wish we could take this boat and close in on the flamingoes

Still lagoon to the right. Wish we could take this boat and close in on the flamingoes

One of the buildings inside

One of the buildings inside

Massive rooms

Massive rooms

Archaeological signs going rusty. This could be a symbol or a gravestone

Archaeological signs going rusty. This could be a symbol or a gravestone

Huge courtyard too

Huge courtyard too

One of the biggest forts in SL

One of the biggest forts in SL

Initial thought was a dungeon or a tunnel

Initial thought was a dungeon or a tunnel

But very abruptly ended here

But very abruptly ended here

Going to the top where the guards roamed along the wall

Going to the top where the guards roamed along the wall

Bell tower

Bell tower

The entrance and part of the lagoon from the top

The entrance and part of the lagoon from the top

Old church inside the fort

Old church inside the fort

Signs of moat

Signs of moat

Guard rooms

Guard rooms

Must've been like a small village inside

Must’ve been like a small village inside

Caught her inside

Caught her inside

Here's that church we saw from the top

Here’s that church we saw from the top

Gravestones

Gravestones

Must've been a helluva thing to carve these on solid rocks

Must’ve been a helluva thing to carve these on solid rocks

Must be some sort of a symbol

Must be some sort of a symbol

Another grave

Another grave

This was on a side wall

This was on a side wall

Coming out of the fort

Coming out of the fort

The front wall of the fort with gaps for the riflemen

The front wall of the fort with gaps for the riflemen

The biggest in SL

The biggest in SL

19.51m in circumference = 64 feet

19.51m in circumference = 64 feet

We're here

We’re here

Like a huge elephant

Like a huge elephant

Here's the foot of the elephant

Here’s the foot of the elephant

The bark is very similar to the skin of an elephant

The bark is very similar to the skin of an elephant

She was exhausted and resting her old bones

She was exhausted and resting her old bones

Placid Giants' Tank

Placid Giants’ Tank

Wonder if this is allowed.

Wonder if this is allowed.

Where we had lunch

Where we had lunch

You can check call the number given

You can check call the number given

The giant Nuga Tree at the restaurant

The giant Nuga Tree at the restaurant

Something was wrong with this fella coz he won't fly away. I took him to a leaf and kept by the Nuga tree

Something was wrong with this fella coz he won’t fly away. I took him to a leaf and kept by the Nuga tree

Here's my sister and me patting her for being a good girl

Here’s my sister and me patting her for being a good girl

She was very possessive of her biccie

She was very possessive of her biccie

She's a darling

She’s a darling

Close up of her

Close up of her

Sunset is about to happen

Sunset is about to happen

A flock of birds going home

A flock of birds going home

Windmills looking gorgeous in the setting sun

Windmills looking gorgeous in the setting sun

Wow

Wow

He's gone home and so we are

He’s gone home and so we are

Enjoy the collection of Panos now.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 11

Pano 12

Pano 12

Pano 13

Pano 13

Pano 14

Pano 14

Pano 15

Pano 15

Pano 16

Pano 16

Pano 17

Pano 17

Cascades of Matale-Illukkumbura-Pallegama Road

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Year and Month 2014 January 20th, 2014 February 04th and 05th
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 3 – Ashan, Wuminda and My self
Accommodation
Transport Public transport-by bus, Three wheel and walking
Activities Waterfall seeing, Sightseeing and Photography
Weather Excellent
Route
  • Day 1 Mathale->Raththota->Puwakpitiya (පුවක්පිටිය)->Kambarawa (කඹරව) ->Naula (නාවුල) ->Matale
  • Day 2&3 Colombo->Kandy->Matale ->Raththota (රත්තොට)->Pitawala Pathana (පිටවල පතන)->Pitawala (පිටවල)->Raththinda (රත්තින්ද) ->Atanwala (ඇටන්වල)->Maningala (මානිoගල)->Thelgamu Oya (තෙල්ගමු ඔය)->Returned back to Matale
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • The only bus from Matale to Hettipola via Illukkumbura (ඉලුක්කුඹුර) and Pitawala Pathana drives from Mathale by 8am. (Start from old bus stand). It reaches Puwakpitiya junction by 10.15am. It will come back to Matale and reaches Illukkumbura at 2.00pm. Our main transport mode was this bus. It is bit difficult to find a three wheeler in this area. This bus operates every day except Sundays.
  • Follow protective measures of leeches.
  • Don’t bath at dangerous places. Before get in to the water ask from locals whether safe or not.
  • Pitawala Pathana Ella-1 & 2 are not familiar to Illukkumbura people. Ekanayaka Mama is the ideal guide to visit there. T.P. 0663660796. Discuss with him beforehand.
  • Bambarungahana Ella is only popular among Puwakpitiya villagers. Other waterfalls are quite popular places.
  • Better couple this waterfall hunting with your visits to other popular places of the area-Riverstone, Pitawala Pathana, Mini world’s End and Maningala.
  • Road condition is fairly good. You can cover all these waterfalls in two days by your own vehicle.
  • Heights of the waterfalls are according to the waterfall book. But it seems some waterfalls are taller than this.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Matale-Illukkumbura-Pallegama road (B 274) gives access to number of waterfalls and tourist destinations like Riverstone, Pitawala Pathana etc. During this three days journey we covered following waterfalls.

Waterfalls visited during this trip (Order from Matale)

  1. Bambarakiri Ella (බඹරකිරි ඇල්ල)
  2. Pitawala Pathana Ella-1(පිටවල පතන ඇල්ල-1)
  3. Pitawala Pathana Ella-2 (පිටවල පතන ඇල්ල-2)
  4. Raththinda cascade (රත්තින්ද ඇල්ල)
  5. Wadda Pani Ella (වැද්දා පැනි ඇල්ල)
  6. Wambatuhena Ella (වම්බටුහේන ඇල්ල)
  7. Bambarungahana Ella (බඹරුන් ගහන ඇල්ල)
  8. Sera Ella (සේර ඇල්ල)

Road guide (Waterfalls in bold letters)

Road guide (Waterfalls in bold letters)

Road guide (Waterfalls in bold letters)

Bambarakiri Ella (3m)

This couple of waterfall can be found at Bambarakiri turn of Matale-Illukkumbura road. It is fairly popular place. It has two waterfalls as Maha-Bambarakiri Ella (මහ බඹරකිරි ඇල්ල) 7°29’43.02″N, 80°41’57.01″E and Punchi Bambarakiri Ella 7°29’41.05″N, 80°41’56.76″E (පුoචි බඹරකිරි ඇල්ල).

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Bambarakiri Turn

Bambarakiri Turn

Maha Bambarakiri Ella

Maha Bambarakiri Ella

Maha Bambarakiri Ella –Few years ago it had a deep pool. This claimed for so many lives. Following landslides it became shallow

Maha Bambarakiri Ella –Few years ago it had a deep pool. This claimed for so many lives. Following landslides it became shallow

Maha Bambarakiri Ella

Maha Bambarakiri Ella

Suspension bridge-Have to cross this and take right turn to Punchi Bambarakiri Ella. This bridge to connect Welannwaththa (වෙලන්වත්ත) village

Suspension bridge-Have to cross this and take right turn to Punchi Bambarakiri Ella. This bridge to connect Welannwaththa (වෙලන්වත්ත) village

Punchi Bambarakiri Ella

Punchi Bambarakiri Ella

Looked up

Looked up

Wambatuhena Ella  (7°33’13.46″N, 80°46’4.34″E)

This 10m tall waterfall is situated in left hand side of the road towards

Puwakpitiya from Puwakpitiya junction. The water stream comes from Pathana village (පතන ගම) and later joins with Thelgamu Oya.

Direction at Puwakpitiya junction- White arrow from Matale side, Red arrow to Illukkumbura and Black arrow is to Puwakpitiya. We were stranded there without having a three wheeler

Direction at Puwakpitiya junction- White arrow from Matale side, Red arrow to Illukkumbura and Black arrow is to Puwakpitiya. We were stranded there without having a three wheeler

Wambatuhena Ella

Wambatuhena Ella

Wambatuhena Ella-Different colors

Wambatuhena Ella-Different colors

Closer view of Wambatuhena Ella

Closer view of Wambatuhena Ella

Bambarungahana Ella (3m) 7°34’40.19″N, 80°44’4.73″E

This beautiful waterfall is situated at Puwakpitiya village. Getting closer to the waterfall is bit challengeable task. You have to get the foot pathway on left hand side of Puwakpitiya temple. Then walk about 1km to reach the waterfall. The origin is Dunumadala Oya (දුනුමඩලා ඔය).

(Villagers of Illukkumbura don’t know about such a waterfall. Always ask from Puwakpitiya village)

Note the direction of the foot pathway closer to the temple

Note the direction of the foot pathway closer to the temple

Pitawala Pathana Ella-1 is seen to Puwakpitiya temple

Pitawala Pathana Ella-1 is seen to Puwakpitiya temple

Pitawala pathana

Pitawala pathana

Have to cross the stream

Have to cross the stream

Bit challengeable

Bit challengeable

Dunumadala Oya. Red star shows the place of the waterfall. It is better go on left hand side of the stream (red arrow)

Dunumadala Oya. Red star shows the place of the waterfall. It is better go on left hand side of the stream (red arrow)

The beauty

The beauty

Bambarungahana Ella

Bambarungahana Ella

Closer view. It is an energetic waterfall

Closer view. It is an energetic waterfall

Sera Ella 7°35’17.95″N, 80°45’18.57″E

She is the queen out of these beauties. Sera Ella is situated at Poththatawela (පොත්තටවෙල) village. The origin is Puwakpitiya Oya. It is one of a widest waterfall in Knuckles range (about 35m width). Two waterfalls can be seen here. Sera Ella has an additional feature of a cave which is situated behind the waterfall. A Bird species called “Seru” were here to give the name – Sera Ella.

You can drive up to the foot pathway towards Sera Ella. There is a nice foot pathway to the waterfall. It branches to the base of the waterfall and to the cave of the waterfall.

This is the junction where road divides to Puwakpitiya (black arrow) and Poththatawela (red arrow). Have to drive about 2km to reach the waterfall

This is the junction where road divides to Puwakpitiya (black arrow) and Poththatawela (red arrow). Have to drive about 2km to reach the waterfall

Scenic

Scenic

Road to Poththatawela

Road to Poththatawela

Nicely made steps to the waterfall

Nicely made steps to the waterfall

Getting down

Getting down

Getting down

Getting down

Lateral view

Lateral view

Sera Ella

Sera Ella

View from the cave. Fantastic experience

View from the cave. Fantastic experience

Front view

Front view

Front view

Front view

Naturally made frog face

Naturally made frog face

Walking from Poththatawela to Kambarawa.

This was a reward for us. After visiting Sera Ella we didn’t have a time to catch the bus from Hettipola to Matale at Illukkumbura. The next available option to get a bus is to walk from Sera Ella to Kambarawa.

The total distance was about 5kms and it took 2 hours to reach Kambarawa. There was a mortable road from Kambarawa to Poththatawela a decade ago. But it has been forested and now only a foot pathway can be seen. This was an unexpected beauty. It was nice to walk along this foot pathway which was bordered by the forest.

Road from Sera Ella to Poththatawela village. Well functioning

Road from Sera Ella to Poththatawela village. Well functioning

Road gets narrow after Poththatawela village

Road gets narrow after Poththatawela village

“පැල”

“පැල”

Scenic

Scenic

Nice to walk here

Nice to walk here

Old “Sapaththu Palama” සපත්තු පාලම

Old “Sapaththu Palama” සපත්තු පාලම

Water streams crossing the road

Water streams crossing the road

Flow

Flow

Again road gets wider as we are closer to Kambarawa

Again road gets wider as we are closer to Kambarawa

Reaching to the Village. Border of Mahaweli development area

Reaching to the Village. Border of Mahaweli development area

Kambarawa Village

Kambarawa Village

Greenish

Greenish

Pitawala Pathana Ella-1 (Approxiamte-7°33’10.46″N, 80°44’26.73″E)

This 75m tall waterfall is situated at Pathana village. Origin is Pathana Dola (පතන දොල). After making Pitawala Pathana Ella-1 and Pitawala Pathana Ella-2 (Unnamed waterfall, we have named as Pitawala Pathana Ella-2) it joins with Puwakpitiya Ganga.

You can observe the full cascade of this waterfall flowing down from Pitawala Pathana at Puwakpitiya village.

Reaching to Pitawala Pathana Ella-1 is not an easy task. First you have to go to the abounded village called “Pathana Gama” පතන ගම and then take the help of the guide called “Ekanayaka Mama.” (Most of the villagers in Pitawala and Illukkumbura are not aware of this waterfall and haven’t visited there.)

Pathana Village and Redbana Company (Narrated by Ekanayaka Mama)

The story of Pathana Village is interesting. This village was established by Redbana Company in 1960-1970 for cultivation of cardamom. Initially it had about 150 families and functioned as a village with a school and a temple. After 10years this cardamom cultivation project was given up by the company. Then villagers moved to their initial residences and village was invaded by the forest. At the moment only two villagers live at this abounded village. Ekanayaka Mama is one of them.

You have to walk about 3km from Red Bana junction of Matale-Pallegama road (after 33km post) to Ekanayaka Mama’s house. Then another 1hour walk to Pitawala Pathana Ella-1. There is no proper foot pathway to the waterfall and leeches are often come across.

Red Bana junction will come across after 33km post of the road. Arrow shows the direction to Pitawala village

Red Bana junction will come across after 33km post of the road. Arrow shows the direction to Pitawala village

Initially it seems as a mortable road

Initially it seems as a mortable road

Nice to walk here

Nice to walk here

Wow

Wow

Road divides into two: left one is the correct one

Road divides into two: left one is the correct one

View of Pitawala Pathana Mini World's end

View of Pitawala Pathana Mini World’s end

Note-People at Mini world's end

Note-People at Mini world’s end

Jumping over the Fence of Ekanayaka Mama

Jumping over the Fence of Ekanayaka Mama

Small house and tree hut

Small house and tree hut

Karagahathanna (කරගහතැන්න) (Left) and Riverstone (right)

Karagahathanna (කරගහතැන්න) (Left) and Riverstone (right)

Ekanayaka Mama -He showed the ruins of houses of the village.

Ekanayaka Mama -He showed the ruins of houses of the village.

“Wallapatta වල්ලාපට්ටHunters” were there

“Wallapatta වල්ලාපට්ටHunters” were there

First view of the waterfall

First view of the waterfall

Climbing up

Climbing up

Pitawala Pathana Ella-1

Pitawala Pathana Ella-1

Lateral view

Lateral view

Another view

Another view

After successful journey

After successful journey

Then Ekanayaka Mama accompanied us for another beautiful waterfall made by the same water stream down to Pitawala Pathana Ella-1. This waterfall is bit taller than the previous one and more beautiful than it. I would like to name it as Pitawala Pathana Ella-2 as it is unnamed. Pitawala Pathana Ella-2 is much popular among Puwakpitiya villagers than Pitawala Pathana Ella-1.

Pitawala Pathana Ella-2 (Approxiamte-7°33’15.26″N, 80°44’27.63″E)

Pitawala Pathana Ella-2

Pitawala Pathana Ella-2

Pitawala Pathana Ella -2. Closer view

Pitawala Pathana Ella -2. Closer view

Pitawala Pathana Ella-2

Pitawala Pathana Ella-2

Summary of the route. Black arrow shows our approach to Ekanayaka Mama’s house. Red arrow shows the direction towards two waterfalls. Picture was taken from Mini World’s End-Pitawala Pathana. You can’t see waterfalls from here

Summary of the route. Black arrow shows our approach to Ekanayaka Mama’s house. Red arrow shows the direction towards two waterfalls. Picture was taken from Mini World’s End-Pitawala Pathana. You can’t see waterfalls from here

Zoomed view

Zoomed view

Raththinda Ella (7°31’24.00″N, 80°44’59.98″E)

This waterfall is situated at Pitawala village. It is a cascade of three parts and clearly visible to surrounding areas like Pitawala Pathana, Maningala. There is a foot pathway towards the middle part of the cascade from Pitawala village. (About 1km journey). Once you come to the middle part you can go to upper and lower parts of the cascades. There is a nice foot pathway which goes along a private land to connect with other side of the waterfall. We followed the first one to reach the waterfall and other one to come down.

Sun rise over Maningala and Thunhisgala (තුන්හිස්ගල) is far away

Sun rise over Maningala and Thunhisgala (තුන්හිස්ගල) is far away

Riverstone

Riverstone

View of Raththinda Ella from Pitawala village

View of Raththinda Ella from Pitawala village

Land mark we came across on our way to the waterfall

Land mark we came across on our way to the waterfall

Another land mark is this water tank. Drinking water project of Pitawala village

Another land mark is this water tank. Drinking water project of Pitawala village

Middle part of the cascade

Middle part of the cascade

You have to cross the middle part and follow the foot pathway on left hand side to reach the upper part. This is upper part

You have to cross the middle part and follow the foot pathway on left hand side to reach the upper part. This is upper part

Top of Raththinda waterfall

Top of Raththinda waterfall

Beautiful landscapes

Beautiful landscapes

Paddy fields of Atanwala village

Paddy fields of Atanwala village

Follow the foot pathway down to reach the lower part of the cascade. This is the lower part

Follow the foot pathway down to reach the lower part of the cascade. This is the lower part

Side view of lower part

Side view of lower part

Surrounding view

Surrounding view

Another snap

Another snap

Towards Atanwala village

Towards Atanwala village

Good morning

Good morning

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.

A hotel is under construction closer to Rathninda waterfall. Above landscapes were taken at it’s garden

A hotel is under construction closer to Rathninda waterfall. Above landscapes were taken at it’s garden

Wedda Pani Ella (7°31’2.08″N, 80°45’21.27″E)

This waterfall is made by Thelgamu Oya when it flows under the bridge connecting Raththinda and Atanwala villages. It is about 6m height waterfall. To get a clear view of the waterfall, you have to get down to Thelgamu Oya. There is another small but beautiful waterfall about 50m down to Wedda Pani Ella.

Due to the death of a Wadda by falling down from this waterfall is the reason for this name.

Thelgamu Oya flows under the bridge.  Just before to make the waterfall

Thelgamu Oya flows under the bridge. Just before to make the waterfall

Wadda Pani Ella and it's base pool

Wadda Pani Ella and it’s base pool

Wadda Pani Ella

Wadda Pani Ella

Complete view of Wedda Pani Ella

Complete view of Wedda Pani Ella

Small cascade found down to Wadda Pani Ella. Photo credit goes to Ashan

Small cascade found down to Wadda Pani Ella. Photo credit goes to Ashan

Thanks for reading

 


Four days in chilly up country

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Year and Month January, 2014
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew Three (myself, wife and son)
Accommodation
Transport Car
Activities A family trip, Waterfall hunting, visiting Lipton’s Seat
Weather Heavy/slight rains first two days only
Route Gampaha -> Urapola -> Awissawella -> kuruvita -> Rathnapura -> Wewelwatte -> Balangoda -> Pumbahinna -> Kalthota -> A4 -> Beragala -> Haputhale -> Lipton Seat -> Poonagala -> Koslanda -> Beragala -> Kalupahana -> Bambarakanda -> A4 -> Gampaha
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Best period to visit Lipton’s seat is April/May
  • Be ready for leech attacks near waterfalls.

** Special thanks ** to Priyanjan for helping me to plan my visit to Lipton’s seat

Author Wije
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

My elder son and daughter did not join due to their busy schedules. I started around 5.30 am on Poya day with my wife and younger son and reached Eheliyagoda and turned left along Dehiowita road and reached Eheliyagoda Rubber estate where you can see Bisodola Ella.

Road through Eheliyagoda rubber estate

Road through Eheliyagoda rubber estate

Bisodola Ella, didn't have much water

Bisodola Ella, didn’t have much water

Then we came back to A4 and turned left before Kuruvita junction to reach Bopath Ella.

Bopath Ella and the base pool

Bopath Ella and the base pool

It's gorgeous

It’s gorgeous

Driving another 2 KM further up along this road we reached the turn off to Dodan fall

Sign board at turn off to Dodan fall

Sign board at turn off to Dodan fall

Dodan fall did not have much water

Dodan fall did not have much water

Then we came back to Kuruvita junction and turned left and continued along Erathna road and reached Diva Guhawa. Lord Buddha had come to this place with 500 priests, while he was visiting Sri Pada.

Diva guhawa, also called Bata thota lena

Diva guhawa, also called Bata thota lena – Click Image to Enlarge

You have to climb nearly 500 steps

You have to climb nearly 500 steps

Sthupa inside the cave

Sthupa inside the cave

Diva Guhawa

Diva Guhawa

We came back along Erathna road and turned left before kuruwita junction, towards Batadombalena. About 5 KM along this road, we reached Arambe Ella just by the side of the road.

Arambe Ella

Arambe Ella

Lower part of Arambe Ella

Lower part of Arambe Ella

Then we came to Rathnapura and took the road along Siripagama. About 7 KM along this road we turned right at Malwala junction to take the Wewelwatte road.

Aanda Ella was the first waterfall we came across on this road. Another few kilometers ahead there were two water falls in close proximity.

Aanda Ella

Aanda Ella

Both falls are within 50 meters

Both falls are within 50 meters

Katu Kithul Ella

Katu Kithul Ella

Hal Ella

Hal Ella

Then we drove about another 5 KM on this road where this gorgeous Dehena ella was seen just by the side of the road.

Dehena Ella seen from the main road

Dehena Ella seen from the main road

Road to Alupola Ella

Road to Alupola Ella – Click Image to Enlarge

Then we came to Wewelwatte junction and turned left and drove about 3 km to reach Alupola Ella. As we turned to Alupola road, it started raining and we missed the waterfall and gone passing it and turned back to see this glorious waterfall.

Road side beauties along Alupola road

Road side beauties along Alupola road

Capturing Alupola Ella

Capturing Alupola Ella

On our way back from Alupola we could see the Beruwatte fall, far away.

Alupola Ella near the base pool

Alupola Ella near the base pool

Beruwatte fall zoomed, seen from the Alupola road through thick mist

Beruwatte fall zoomed, seen from the Alupola road through thick mist

From Wewelwatte junction we drove about another 2 km and reached this massive waterfall.

Beruwatte fall

Beruwatte fall

Gushing water at the base pool

Gushing water at the base pool

After a heavy battle with leeches at Beruwatte fall, we proceeded further towards Rassagala and there was another beautiful one just by the side of the road which I thought was the Wewel Ella.

Upper part of Wewel Ella

Upper part of Wewel Ella

Lower part of the fall

Lower part of the fall

Then we noted another small cascade along the main road, but when reached it only recognized that it is just a water channel with a Peela. Few more kilo meters ahead, we came across another tiny waterfall seen far away through paddy fields.

Water channel

Water channel

Seen far away through paddy fields

Seen far away through paddy fields

It is the Dodamgallena Ella or may be Demala Ella. Then we proceeded towards Rassagala

Dodamgallena/Demala Ella zoomed

Dodamgallena/Demala Ella zoomed

5.30 pm near Rassagala

5.30 pm near Rassagala

That was the last waterfall along Wewelwatte road and we came to ‘Terico Resort’ at Belihuloya. The Belihul Oya is running just by the side of this hotel.

Belihul Oya as seen from the room

Belihul Oya as seen from the room

There were plenty of open areas like this

There were plenty of open areas like this

After breakfast we left the resort and came to Pambahinna along A4 and turned right towards Kalthota. After passing Sabaragamuwa University we reached Samanala wewa dam and stopped for a while to see the famous leak.

Leaking water of the dam

Leaking water of the dam

This leak is a blessing for villagers

This leak is a blessing for villagers

This leak is a serious engineering blunder in Sri Lankan history which caused this project to be a failure. However, this leak provides a continuous supply of water to people living there and for them, the leak is indeed a blessing.

Samanala wewa Dam

Samanala wewa Dam

Road to Kalthota through thick forest

Road to Kalthota through thick forest

After driving through these lush greeneries for about 30 minutes, we came to Rajawaka and drove about 5 KM to reach Thanjantenna town where we turned right to reach Kuragala. It was 11.30 am and not the best time to climb Kuragala. So we gave up the idea and came to our next place on the list, Duvili Ella.

We had to walk about 1½ KM from the ticketing centre as the road was under repair.

And from there another exactly 362 steps down, to reach the waterfall.

362 steps to reach the waterfall

362 steps to reach the waterfall

Kalthota Duvili Ella

Kalthota Duvili Ella

There is a walking track where you can reach the top of the fall.

It’s really eye catching

It’s really eye catching

Top of the fall, not a safe place for bathing

Top of the fall, not a safe place for bathing

Top of the fall where Duvili Ella begins

Top of the fall where Duvili Ella begins

Endless views

Endless views

Then we came to Kalthota junction and took the right turn. We passed the Budugala Archeological site and the Budugala viharaya. Driving few more kilo meters we saw the Diyavini Ella.

Diyavini Ella seen from the main road

Diyavini Ella seen from the main road

Diyavini Ella zoomed

Diyavini Ella zoomed

Huge pipes carrying water from Samamalawewa reservoir

Huge pipes carrying water from Samamalawewa reservoir

Then we came to Haputhale through A4 and reached Cues Tar Inn. After a quick wash we went to Bandarawela to meet our veteran hiker Priyanjan and that was the first time I met him.

View from the hotel

View from the hotel

View from the hotel

View from the hotel

Next morning we left to Lipton’s seat. It’s a 19 KM journey through Dambetenna estate and one of the best scenic roads I have ever come across. We came to the Kelburne point which is about 5 KM from Haputhale, where you can get a unique view towards down south.

Kelburne Point

Kelburne Point

View from Kelburne point

View from Kelburne point

    Along the road to Lipton's seat

Along the road to Lipton’s seat

Along the road to Lipton's seat

Along the road to Lipton’s seat

Road through Dambetenna estate

Road through Dambetenna estate

Dambetenna tea estate

Dambetenna tea estate

After 1½ hrs drive through these lush plantation, on a very narrow road we came to Lipton’s seat. We were the first to arrive there, but the place got crowded within about half an hour.

Lipton's seat

Lipton’s seat

Place got crowded very soon

Place got crowded very soon

History of Lipton's seat

History of Lipton’s seat – Click Image to Enlarge

Thick mist around Lipton's seat

Thick mist around Lipton’s seat

We couldn’t see anything except the thick mist. Although we stayed there for more than one hour, there wasn’t any sign of a clear view.

So we left the place desperately and came back on the same road. Halfway we turned towards the Nayabedda estate. Passing Nayabedda factory we came to Bandarawela/Poonagala road and turned towards Poonagla. It’s 18 KM to Poonagala and a very scenic road through several tea estates. Poonagala is a small town and majority of people are estate Tamils. From Poonagala we came towards Koslanda which is another 14 KM drive. Before reaching Koslanda, we stopped at Makaldeniya junction

Seasonal fall along Poonagala road

Seasonal fall along Poonagala road

Found a comfortable seat in heaven

Found a comfortable seat in heaven

A massacre… Very soon there will be hotel here

A massacre… Very soon there will be hotel here

Poonagala International cricket stadium

Poonagala International cricket stadium

We took the left turn from Makaldeniya junction and there was a hotel but it was closed. I wanted to get to the top of Diyaluma but there wasn’t any trace of a walking track. This is a very lonely place and there wasn’t anyone to get any information. Wasting about thirty minutes walking up and down I gave up the idea and came back to Makaldeniya junciton and proceeded towards Koslanda. The road to koslanda is very narrow and steep with a number of hair pin bends.

Steep hair pin bends

Steep hair pin bends

and narrow roads

and narrow roads

Finally came to Diyaluma falls which is the 2nd highest with a height of 220 meters

Diyaluma fall

Diyaluma fall

Diyaluma fall

Diyaluma fall

From Diyaluma, we came to Bambarakanda which is the highest waterfall of Sri Lanka, with a height of 263 meters.

We came across few seasonal cascades along Koslanda/Beragala road.

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

We came to Bambarakanda Holiday Resort around 4 pm. After a chat with Mrs. Sera Mayakaduwa, I left to Bambarakanda water fall with my son. As I reached the turnoff to the waterfall from the main road, I was shocked and miserable to see the ‘development’ of the area. Now there are concrete steps built up to the base pool with an observation deck. The walk through those pine forest, tumbling, crawling and the struggle with leeches are no more there. Frankly, Bambarakanda is a concrete jungle now. They have spent 16 Million rupees so far and the project is still underway

Bambarakanda seen from the resort

Bambarakanda seen from the resort

Observation deck

Observation deck

Base pool as seen from the observation deck

Base pool as seen from the observation deck

Next day morning I had a walk along the Bambarakanda/Ohiya trail and the road was lightened with early morning rays.

Bambarakanda/Ohiya trail at 6.00 am

Bambarakanda/Ohiya trail at 6.00 am

Road is paved up to the V cut

Road is paved up to the V cut

After a heavy breakfast with rotty we started the hike to Lanka ella. Mrs.Mayakaduwa’s son in law ‘Lanka’ also joined with us. First part of the trail was through a pine forest.

First part is to climb through this pine forest

First part is to climb through this pine forest

Bambarakanda/Kalupahana road seen from the trail

Bambarakanda/Kalupahana road seen from the trail

Then we had to pass a thick Maana forest where there wasn’t any clear path but we managed to find the trail and finally reached this magnificent fall.

On the way to Lanka Ella

On the way to Lanka Ella

finally reached this gorgeous Lanka Ella

finally reached this gorgeous Lanka Ella

The base pool resembles the map of Sri Lanka, hence the name ‘Lanka Ella’ derived.

Shape of the base pool

Shape of the base pool

Right end of the base pool

Right end of the base pool

Then we came back to Bambarakanda Resort and said good bye to Sera Mayakaduwa and drove towards Rathnapura. On the way we saw the Surathali Ella from the main road. We walked about 100 meters through a foot path to reach the base pool.

Surathali Ella seen from A4

Surathali Ella seen from A4

Surathali Ella at base pool

Surathali Ella at base pool

Then we came to Pelmadulla and turned along Kuttapitiya Road to reach Kirindiella. It is about 7 KM drive from Pelmadulla.

Kirindi Ella seen from observation deck

Kirindi Ella seen from observation deck

What an amazing sight

What an amazing sight

It was almost 9.00 pm when we reached home and yet another memorable family trip.

 

Soaked to the Marrow – Tour de Waterfalls 4…

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Year and Month 12 Jun, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Hasitha, Dhanushka, Kasun and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Car
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Heavy Rains with Strong Winds, gloomy right throughout…
Route Maharagama->Kottawa->Kaduwela->Kandy->Katugastota->Wattegama->Bambarella and back through Kurunegala.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Leech protection is highly recommended.
  • Rainy season is the idea time to visit even though it’d be hard to travel and take pics.
  • Most of these falls, except Thaliya Wetuna Ella and Lebanon Estate Falls 1 are closer to the main roads and can easily reach by either private vehicle or public transport.
  • Avoid trying to bathe in the waterfalls, especially when the water levels are high.
  • Special Thanks to Niroshana’s Report.
  • Protect the Nature and don’t litter.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It’s been a while since Hasitha and I went out searching for waterfalls accompanied by the old boy, Tony marking the first of my Tour de Waterfalls that have grown dramatically throughout May. Waterfalls have always been my great passion and will always be. It’s such pleasure to go see them flowing down in their pristine white veils looking like angels descended straight from heaven. However it’s so painful and depressing to witness the tragic situation enveloping these gorgeous virgins by the vicious, greedy and ignorant people in our country.

The future of them looks so uncertain and I wonder how many of them will still be standing in a few years. So my aim to go see as many of these beauties has to be intensified especially in the monsoon season. I was glad when Hasitha called asking what my plans were for Poson. Tony and I celebrated Vesak skirting around Deraniyagala and the prospects of doing something similar on Poson lifted my spirits tenfold. I suggested we visit Bambarella following Niroshana’s footsteps. Even though Hasi had been there before, he still wanted to do it once again as there had been very little water at the time due to the drought.

However, we had plans for a greater cause at Kohonawala led by NG. After my first visit to Kohonawala, there were a lot of people coming forward to do something for this isolated village her occupants. NG arranged with the help of her (for many who have been under the impression that NG was a boy will now know that she isn’t) friends were preparing to do an eye clinic for the villagers with the blessings and directions of the monk. After a lot of effort and commendable commitment, she managed to formulate a plan and decided to do it on 13th June, next day after Poson. As it’s always the case, it was difficult to get the team members going together. So NG, decided to take the medical team and the equipment along with Kasun on Poson Poya day with plans to descend to the temple by late afternoon while Athula, Tony, Prasanna and me taking the night bus to reach village on Friday morning.

In the end, NG and the medical team went ahead with their plans and carried out the eye clinic taking that extra step to do something for the people in need. Unfortunately, we couldn’t join them as planned due to various reasons. This was a great relief for those neglected people by many of the relevant authorities to be able to receive such a treatment right in their rural village. I hope by the time this report comes online, you folks will have heard about it. So well done NG and her team for putting together such a noble effort. It was going that extra mile, showing we’re not only passionate about the environment, but also the well-being of fellow innocent human beings. So once again I wanna congratulate NG, her friends and the medical team for going through all those hardships to achieve their goal. It’s a pity that we couldn’t be there as promised.

There are plans for many greater things and I do hope I’ll be able to go witness and tell you all about them.

You can check the details of Kohonawala Eye Clinic here.

Ok, let’s change course and get back to our waterfall hunt. I invited Danushka and his wife, Thilini to join forces for this but only Dhana could make it. At the last minute, Kasun who was supposed to go with NG, called me and ask if he too could come with us as his leave was cancelled making it impossible to go to Kohonawala. Leave when we need is a privilege that many of employees can’t afford.

So finally the four of us left on the dawn of Poson and headed towards Kandy.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Rahas Ella, Wattegama.
  2. Hulu Ganga Ella, Panwila.
  3. Saari Ella, Thawalanthenna.
  4. Jodu Ella, Thawalanthenna.
  5. Lebanon Estate Ella 3, Lebanon Estate.
  6. Lebanon Estate Ella 1, Lebanon Estate.
  7. Kosgama Ella, Kosgama.
  8. Thaliya Wetunu Ella, Allakola, Estate.
  9. Video Journey of Waterfalls of Bambarella.

Note: We couldn’t clearly see the Lebanon Estate Ella 2 that was about 100m before the Lebanon Junction due to thick tree cover along the road and couldn’t attempt to reach around the tea patch due to time constraints. However, from what we saw through those trees, it was clear that she was a very tall girl with plenty of water and there were a few more beautiful ones further below. In addition to the list, we saw many waterfalls in the distant mountains with no means to reach and most of them would have been just seasonal falls.

Rahas Ella

This is located about a km away from Wattegama by the road at a bridge, probably the first to come across along Bambarella road. There are two parts of the falls, the upper part to the left of the road and the lower half under the bridge which is accessible via a concreted steps about 50m before the bridge to the right. She too is a victim of diversion of water making the lower half being limited to a tiny flow. The upper part is kinda hidden by a rock probably giving her the name”Rahas” (Secret). Even the lower half is obscured from view further the strengthening the meaning of her name. The water looked yellowish brown due to heavy rains.

We got down under the bridge to see this beautiful fall but looking closely figured it was just a leak from the concrete canal that takes water elsewhere. It was gloomy and cloud cover was so thick you could make marshmallows from it. It had already started to drizzle and we had to take out our umbrellas to go take pics.

The upper part, note the diversion of the water to the left

The upper part, note the diversion of the water to the left

Falling secretly behind the rock

Falling secretly behind the rock

Up close

Up close

Muddy pool

Muddy pool

Old habits die hard

Old habits die hard

Got down to the below

Got down to the below

Here's the leak and making a nice little fall

Here’s the leak and making a nice little fall

Bigger than the actual Rahas Ella

Bigger than the actual Rahas Ella

The bottom part of Rahas Ella

The bottom part of Rahas Ella

Again, no much to see

Again, no much to see

Taken from the bridge, the middle area

Taken from the bridge, the middle area

Hulu Ganga Ella

Go further along Bambarella road till you reach Hulu Ganga town with a large bridge under which falls one of the most beautiful girls I’ve ever seen, Hulu Ganga Ella. Just pass the bridge and about 50m away you will find the steps that lead you to the observation deck. Whoever done that should be blessed as it makes an ideal location to see this magnificent creature of Mother Nature. It was still drizzling and we spent nearly half hour picturing her. It started pouring with rain making us abandon our plan to visit Thaliya Wetuna Ella and head further towards Bambarella.

Passing Lebanon junction and then Kosgama Bridge we reached Thawalanthenna where we could see Jodu Ella from the road but without stopping went till the Tamil school at the Thawalanthenna.

 

Getting down to the observation deck

Getting down to the observation deck

She's one sexy lady

She’s one sexy lady

Just look at her

Just look at her

Closer, not over flowing but wait till you get to the second set of pics

Closer, not over flowing but wait till you get to the second set of pics

Pristine white

Pristine white

A tail like mid section

A tail like mid section

Flowing downhill

Flowing downhill

There's another canal taking water, this is ok as it has no effect to the falls

There’s another canal taking water, this is ok as it has no effect to the falls

Creativity of my point-n-shoot camera

Creativity of my point-n-shoot camera

Couldn't take my eyes off her

Couldn’t take my eyes off her

Saari Ella

From Thawalanthenna junction, take the concrete paved road uphill through the school for about 1km till you notice a tin-roofed cabana like structure to the left and just next to it is Saari Ella.

However along the way, we witnessed a very tall waterfall in the middle of the jungle to our right. Only the top was visible through tall trees and numerous attempts to get clear info about her failed. However many said she’s hidden in the jungle and not so easy to reach amid leech-infested undergrowth. However she is well worth paying a visit if possible.

The hut looked derelict and abandoned making it a heaven for drunkards. We saw plenty of beer cans and liquor bottles most of them were broken, so be careful where you step. It however provided the previous shelter we were seeking making it easier to take pics.

However, despite the heavy rains, there was a bunch of boys enjoying a dip in the base pool and a direct shower from the falls. As soon as we arrived, the left making it easy for us to take pics with an unobstructed view of this beauty.

 

View from the Thawalanthenna Junction

View from the Thawalanthenna Junction

It was gloomy the whole day

It was gloomy the whole day

Those 3 umbrellas were the heroes of the day

Those 3 umbrellas were the heroes of the day

The unidentified falls

The unidentified falls

Closer view

Closer view

Here she is, you can barely notice the tin-roofed hut

Here she is, you can barely notice the tin-roofed hut

From the road

From the road

Getting closer

Getting closer

Here she is

Here she is

Portrait

Portrait

The upper part of the Saari (Saari Pota)

The upper part of the Saari (Saari Pota)

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Lower half

Lower half

Giving a helping hand – “Sahayata Dani”

Giving a helping hand – “Sahayata Dani”

The hut now not in good condition

The hut now not in good condition

Beauties were all over

Beauties were all over

Now the other way round

Now the other way round

"Me Gase Boho - Amba Godak Thibe"

“Me Gase Boho – Amba Godak Thibe”

Jodu Ella

You can clearly see her from the road to Thawalanthenna and to get a closer view, take the right hand road at the Thawalanthenna junction towards the line houses. About 1km away you will reach a house which is located towards the very end of the path and from here just maneuver around the tea bushes to get as closer to her as possible.

She falls in two major parts while in heavy rains making tiny parts on either side. I figured the left on to be the wife and the right one to be the husband. However Kasun and Dhana said that the left part is fatter (wider) the right and I said that is exactly why she is the wife. Their 10-year old son was to the extreme left next to the mother while 2-year old very shy looking daughter was hiding behind trees next to the father.

As requested by us, Mother Nature blessed us with about half hour of clear whether making it easy to picture her. However 2 to 3 inch long leeches hung on to us making pin point incisions into our veins. As I always say, they could be very handy when injecting people as it would be painless and quick to get to the veins. Also patients won’t have to undergo multiple attempts by those untrained nurses of private hospitals looking for the veins.

Back at Thawalanthenna, we stopped by the shop near the school for a cup of tea. The owner Mr. Venugopal provided us with tea and hot water fascinated by our visit all the way from Colombo amid heavy rains. He was very hospitable and even refused money for it which made us buy some tipi tips in the hope of helping him some way. I have witnessed the hospitality and kindness of people in especially rural areas towards travelers. So please don’t do anything to hurt them or be a nuisance to them by your behavior. Respect them, seek their help whenever possible and always play that you don’t know better than them even if you really are. It’ll help form a good relationship and you will be surprised to see how helpful they really are and go out of the way to do it. Still there could be crooks too as it’s the case everywhere but most of them are just innocent and helpful villagers. I’m telling you this from nearly two years of constant traveling experience.

 

The reddish garbage bag was Hasi's waterproof cover for the camera

The reddish garbage bag was Hasi’s waterproof cover for the camera

Water was gushing down ferociously

Water was gushing down ferociously

Some more

Some more

The mist and clouds obscured the view

The mist and clouds obscured the view

Here she is

Here she is

The couple and the son to the left

The couple and the son to the left

Just great looking

Just great looking

Just the couple

Just the couple

The hubby

The hubby

And the chubby wife

And the chubby wife

Leeches were everywhere but our focus was only on the camera

Leeches were everywhere but our focus was only on the camera

Surrounding mountains

Surrounding mountains

Guess what? It's the "Lama Saari Ella"

Guess what? It’s the “Lama Saari Ella”

From the road

From the road

The Whole Family: From Left: 10-year old son, the wife, husband and the 2-year old daughter

The Whole Family: From Left: 10-year old son, the wife, husband and the 2-year old daughter

Lebanon Estate Ella 1

From Thawalanthenna we carried on the way we came and stopped by the roadside to take more pics of Jodu Ella. Afterwards we reached Lebanon junction and asked for directions about the Lebanon Estate Ella but nobody knew about it as mentioned by Niro. Fortunately there was this small milk collecting lorry and I asked one of the boys about the falls and he agreed to take us. His name is Velayudam and was very friendly and helpful.

We took the estate road and about 200m away reached a bridge and a small kovil. Leaving the car, we walked passing the bridge and on the way I saw a beautiful but a small waterfall to our right. I called her Lebanon Estate Ella 3 as Niro had formerly named 1 & 2. Without stopping by her, we carried on and soon could see the top of Lebanon Estate Ella 1. She was in full flow. After walking about 1km, we reached the base of the falls.

She took my breath away, looked similar to Ellepla Ella but with a raised top part which can’t be seen from the bottom. Along the way we saw the Jodu Ella in the distance. We could clearly see the flow of water coming down till it separated making the Jodu Ella. What a fabulous view it really was. Having plucked out the leeches we set about taking pics. Finally we left Velayudam and started walking back.

 

Lebanon Junction

Lebanon Junction

Can drive along this road

Can drive along this road

Where you have to stop and take the left hand side bridge. This is Velayudam who offered to help us

Where you have to stop and take the left hand side bridge. This is Velayudam who offered to help us

The bridge

The bridge

Part of the shoe bridge is washed out

Part of the shoe bridge is washed out

Dedicated to Kaali Kovil, never seen 9 pillars  like these anywhere else before

Dedicated to Kaali Kovil, never seen 9 pillars like these anywhere else before

The rain had brought the lush greenery about

The rain had brought the lush greenery about

The top of falls 1

The top of falls 1

Velayudam leading the way

Velayudam leading the way

Mountains in the distance

Mountains in the distance

Guess what? This is the Jodu Ella from Lebanon Estate. Just look at the water way

Guess what? This is the Jodu Ella from Lebanon Estate. Just look at the water way

Approaching

Approaching

Larger version of Ellepola Ella

Larger version of Ellepola Ella

Simply amazing

Simply amazing

Plenty of water

Plenty of water

Water gushing down

Water gushing down

Hitting the base hard

Hitting the base hard

The top of it

The top of it

Lebanon Estate Ella 3

I didn’t forget to stop by the Lebanon Estate Ella 1 that we saw on the way but no chance of getting closer to her due to raging water. So we had to be content with a view about 50ft away.

Back at Lebanon junction and went in search of Lebanon Estate Ella 2. We found her about 100m away peering through thick tree cover. She looked as big or even bigger as Lebanon Estate Ella 1 but no way to take a picture. We simply had no time to tackle the tea patch on the other side looking for a path so very sadly bid farewell to her hoping to come back again.

 

Here she is hidden

Here she is hidden

Not so high but so much water

Not so high but so much water

Finally a clear shot

Finally a clear shot

The rains have brought life into them

The rains have brought life into them

The bottom

The bottom

Good bye lady

Good bye lady

The bridge at Lebanon Junction, to see the Falls 2, walk down about 100m

The bridge at Lebanon Junction, to see the Falls 2, walk down about 100m

Under the bridge

Under the bridge

The stream turned into a river

The stream turned into a river

Never ending cascades

Never ending cascades

Helpful sign-posting

Helpful sign-posting

The falls 2 is somewhere to the left but no chance of a glimpse

The falls 2 is somewhere to the left but no chance of a glimpse

Kosgama Ella

We headed towards Hulu Ganga. We reached the Kosgama Bridge and stopped to look for the Kosgama Ella mentioned in Niro’s report. Under the bridge came a deafening roar of water gushing down and closer inspection revealed the Kosgama Ella downhill. The water had been diverted by yet another concrete canal but a leak once again made it look beautiful. It was practically impossible to reach the bottom and we didn’t even have the time coz I was due back in Colombo to take the night but to Kohonawala.

However as I mentioned above, Prasanna had pulled off early due to being sick and Kasun with no leave. To make matters worse, Tony called to inform Atha too had fallen down with fever and not able to make it. It was down to the two of us to join NG and the team who were already on their way.

 

Kosgama Bridge

Kosgama Bridge

The top part of the stream

The top part of the stream

The left side is created by a leak from the concrete canal

The left side is created by a leak from the concrete canal

And it makes a nice little falls

And it makes a nice little falls

The middle

The middle

Right at the bottom, but not easy to reach there

Right at the bottom, but not easy to reach there

Would've been lovely had we been able to look up from the bottom

Would’ve been lovely had we been able to look up from the bottom

Back at Hulu Ganga Ella

On our way to Thaliya Wetuna Ella, we stopped by the Hulu Ganga Ella once again coz it looked the water level has gone up. There was a thick layer of water vapor generated by the flow of water crashing onto the base rocks. We were proved correct and the water level had risen dramatically adding that brownish color to the milky white veil. However, our stay here prevented us taking pics up close of Thaliya Wetuna Ella as it started to rain cats and dogs with strong winds.

 

Now you can compare the difference

Now you can compare the difference

Water is increasing every second

Water is increasing every second

The tail like section now brownish due to rains

The tail like section now brownish due to rains

Ferocious base

Ferocious base

This water vapor enveloped the Hulu Ganga town

This water vapor enveloped the Hulu Ganga town

Flowing down

Flowing down

Before it was open

Before it was open

Thaliya Wetuna Ella

Take the road to Allakola Estate to the left at Hulu Ganga junction when coming from Wattegama. The road is in very good condition but in the estate, pretty narrow. About 1-2km of driving took us to a sharp bend to the right with a distant view of Thaliya Wetuna Ella to the left about a km away. It was simply great landscape and Dhana jumped out of the car shooting away as if he was possessed.

We started the walk towards the falls and it’s about 1.5km in length through open tea estate with plenty of Mana bushes covering the path. There were very large leeches in numbers and the path was more or less a tiny canal due to consistent rain. We came to a place with a good view about a few hundred meters away from the falls when Dhana shouted “Scorpion” and it was a big fella on the road with a shiny blue tinge to its typically black body. We walked maybe another 100m when the rain hit us in full force with strong winds threatening to take us to the charcoal grey sky with our umbrellas. We waited about 10 mins but rain showed no sign of slackening. It was so frustrating to have come so close but to turn around without being able to take decent close pics. However we were blessed and lucky throughout the day and Mother Nature tried her best to make it possible for us to give as much time as possible but couldn’t hold the heavily laden clouds any longer.

We took a few pics but all they showed was a gorgeous girl through a curtain of rain. Cameras are still nothing compared to our eyes. So we called it quits and headed back to the road and the car. There were hundreds of leeches stuck to body and clothes. Kasun even fished out one from his hair on our way.

Under the rain we spent nearly half hour shaking those blood suckers off, everyone was bleeding and Dhana’s pants were smeared with blood making him look like a villain from a Bollywood movie. Hasi and Kasun didn’t escape their brutal attack either. There were families of leeches between their toes as if bought from a land sale company refusing to untag. I wish it was as easy as untagging on Facebook.

Finally we got in drenching the car and seats and drove away. Meanwhile NG and the team had reached the village while Tony was rightly panicking. I hoped we could reach Colombo in time but it proved ungettable and had to abandon our plan to visit Kohonawala and help in some way to the eye clinic.

 

That bus delayed us almost by 10 mins robbing our precious time

That bus delayed us almost by 10 mins robbing our precious time

Beautiful Allakola Estate

Beautiful Allakola Estate

Very picturesque

Very picturesque

Walk through the heaven

Walk through the heaven

Landscape

Landscape

The falls in the distance

The falls in the distance

Closer

Closer

And closer

And closer

Up close, I was very grateful for the 20X zoom of my Sony

Up close, I was very grateful for the 20X zoom of my Sony

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Hasi and the rain cover

Hasi and the rain cover

Everywhere was a pic taking opportunity

Everywhere was a pic taking opportunity

Walking towards the falls

Walking towards the falls

Dhana screamed his head off

Dhana screamed his head off

The rain was so thick like a veil

The rain was so thick like a veil

Pity couldn't take a clear pic

Pity couldn’t take a clear pic

Just like looking through a misty window

Just like looking through a misty window

Landscape along the way back

Landscape along the way back

More beautiful mountains

More beautiful mountains

Note the falls and this was way up in the mountains

Note the falls and this was way up in the mountains

See you again Bambarella

See you again Bambarella

It was a great day visiting so many rich waterfalls but I was saddened nonetheless not being able to visit Kohonawala. Anyway it was beyond our control and I hope to go there for the next phase of NG’s plan end of the month.

Do enjoy the videos of the journey below.

Video Journey of Waterfalls of Bambarella.

Well folks I hope that you enjoyed the pics and my narration. Also if this report aroused your senses of traveling, I have been successful.

Take care and keep traveling while protecting our Mother Nature and like NG and the team did, try to help people in need whenever you can. At least try to bring them forward and be known so that those capable will do something.

This is Sri signing off hoping to bring yet another Tour de Waterfalls.

 

Mannar in brief

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Year and Month June, 2014 (15th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 04 (Myself, Wuminda, Dushan and Nirosh)
Accommodation Four Tees Inn Thoddaveli, Mannar
Transport By Car
Activities Photography and Just travelling
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Puttalama -> Sinharagama -> Oyamadu -> Mannar -> Thalaimannar -> Returned to Mannar -> Murunkan -> Silawatturai -> Arippu fort -> Return to A14 road -> Madu junction -> Madu church -> Oyamaduwa -> Puttalama -> Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Road conditions are excellent along E03 (Colombo to Katunayaka), A 03 (Katunayaka to Puttalama), A12 (Puttalama to Sinharagama). Road from Sinharagama to Thanthirimale and to A 14 road is also good after Dayata Kirula development.
  • But A14 road is under construction up to Mannar. Therefore it takes time to travel along that. Again road condition is good from Mannar to Thalaimannar.
  • If you have some Navy contacts, I think you can visit at old pier at Thalaimannar and climb light house at Thalaimannar.
  • Boat tours to Adam’s bridge are completely stopped by the Navy following last year incidence. They may start it end of this year. We tried to hire a fisherman’s boat to visit there by one of my friend’s contact. But it was unsuccessful due to rough sea. But this kind of boat tours has to be done with your own risk (As no life jackets). Then it will not be approved by Navy.
  • If you are a Buddhist it is better you can visit at two temples in Mannar. I noticed Buddhists less frequently visit there.
  • Although dry fish is the hall mark of Mannar I couldn’t find a single shop to buy them. You must go to the places where it is dried to buy them.
  • We stayed at Four Tees Inn at Thoddaveli. It is situated 10km away from Mannar town towards Thalaimannar. It is fairly cheap place to stay and room condition also satisfactory. They charge Rs400 per person for a meal. But there are enough outside food stalls at Mannar to buy food.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This was a long awaited trip for Wuminda and me. I could gather enough information about Mannar and places on the way to Mannar by reading Lakdasun reports. We started the journey from Colombo around 7.30am due to my job commitments. On the way we have visited some other places and reached Mannar around 8.30pm. (I will discuss it later by a separate report). We were warmly welcome by Mr.Rohan at Four Tees Inn.

Places we visited in Mannar and Thalaimannar

  1. Thalaimannar pier, light house and beach
  2. Urumalee light house and Adam’s mausoleum
  3. Baob tree and Dutch fort
  4. Thiruketeeswaram Kovil and Manthota ancient temple
  5. Giant lake
  6. Arippu fort/Doric bungalow.
  7. Madu Church.

We started our tour around Mannar and Thalaimannar in early morning from Four Tees rest inn. First we visit at Mannar beach which can be approached by beach road from Rest Inn in about 5minutes drive.

Thoddaveli Railway station

Thoddaveli Railway station

Early morning Mannar beach

Early morning Mannar beach

Common friend met at Mannar beach

Common friend met at Mannar beach

Then we came back to main road and drove towards Thalaimannar. Road condition from Mannar to Thalaimannar was good and development after war can be noticed.

First we came to Thalaimannar pier road and went to Thalaimannar beach.

Thalaimannar new railway station. About to open

Thalaimannar new railway station. About to open

Thalaimannar beach. Fresh fish

Thalaimannar beach. Fresh fish

Thalaimannar beach and old pier

Thalaimannar beach and old pier

Thalaimannar Pier. This old one is used by Navy. They usually don’t allow visitors to go there now as it is risky.

Thalaimannar Pier. This old one is used by Navy. They usually don’t allow visitors to go there now as it is risky.

Thalaimannar light house. Not allowed to climb up

Thalaimannar light house. Not allowed to climb up

Dry fish. Hall mark of Mannar

Dry fish. Hall mark of Mannar

On our way back we noticed the Buddhist temple at Thalaimannar. Urumalee road starts in between Thalaimannar School and police. This road ends at Urumalee Navy camp. We could see remaining of old light house of Urumalee. To reach Adam’s mausoleum, you have to come back and take right hand turn at Christ’s statue. This road ends there.

Buddhist temple at Thalaimannar

Buddhist temple at Thalaimannar

Decaying iron structure at Urumalee light house

Decaying iron structure at Urumalee light house

Closer view

Closer view

Thalaimannar church

Thalaimannar church

Adam's mausoleum. It has 20ft long two graves in bordered by a parapet. This is considered as a Islam religious place. They believe this belongs to two person came from middle east (mother and son) with 60ft height 600 years ago. Don’t know how it relates to Adam

Adam’s mausoleum. It has 20ft long two graves in bordered by a parapet. This is considered as a Islam religious place. They believe this belongs to two person came from middle east (mother and son) with 60ft height 600 years ago. Don’t know how it relates to Adam

Another view

Another view

Donkeys are common in this island and they are not used for any work

Donkeys are common in this island and they are not used for any work

Then we came back to Mannar town to visit Baob tree. You have to go along a by road about 1km to reach there.

Baob tree

Baob tree

See how large it is

See how large it is

Parameters

Parameters

Tallady Bridge connects main land with Mannar Island. We have visited Old Dutch fort at Mannar before we leave the island. This fort was built by Portuguese in 1560 and it was captured Dutch in 1658 and rebuilt in 1696. This fort has four bastions.

Mannar Dutch fort

Mannar Dutch fort

Mannar Dutch Fort

Mannar Dutch Fort

A monument

A monument

Most attractive part of the fort

Most attractive part of the fort

Tallady Bridge

Tallady Bridge

After came to main island back, we visited at Thiruketeeswaram Kovil. You have to travel along Poonaryn road and take a by road to reach there. We were able to visit at Manthota ancient temple which is situated closer to the Kovil. Palavi tank is also situated close to Kovil.

Thiruketeeswaram Kovil. Photographs not allowed inside

Thiruketeeswaram Kovil. Photographs not allowed inside

This is one of the Kovils dedicated for God Siva in the country. According to historian it has been there even before Wijaya arrival to Sri Lanka as Mannar was an ancient port. It was destructed by Portuguese and used stones to build Mannar fort. This Kovil was rebuilt in early part of 20th century

This is one of the Kovils dedicated for God Siva in the country. According to historian it has been there even before Wijaya arrival to Sri Lanka as Mannar was an ancient port. It was destructed by Portuguese and used stones to build Mannar fort. This Kovil was rebuilt in early part of 20th century

Sacred Bo tree at Manthota ancient temple

Sacred Bo tree at Manthota ancient temple

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Some more

Some more

We drove along A14 road further and next destination was Giant Tank-Yoda Wewa. This is a famous place for bird watching.

Giant tank-Yoda Wewa. Built by King Dathusena (459-477) by damming Malwathu Oya. This tank has a canal getting water from Malwathu Oya

Giant tank-Yoda Wewa. Built by King Dathusena (459-477) by damming Malwathu Oya. This tank has a canal getting water from Malwathu Oya

Little Cormorant

Little Cormorant

Asian Openbill

Asian Openbill

Cotton Pygmy-goose

Cotton Pygmy-goose ?

Overspill of Giant Tank

Overspill of Giant Tank

Then we came to Murunkan and drove to Silawatturai junction. Arippu fort is situated about 5km north from this junction. Road condition was good till Silawatturai but it is under construction from Silawatturai.

Arippu fort was the house of first British Governor Sir Fredric North. This house had four small bed rooms and a dining room at down stairs. Master bed room was at up stair. This house was planned governor himself and built in 1804. The original construction had four Doric columns, that’s why it is called Doric Bungalow.

Initial building was situated about 1km away from the sea. It is under the threat of sea erosion.

At Silawatturai Junction

At Silawatturai Junction

Remaining of Arippu fort

Remaining of Arippu fort

How it has gone to the sea

How it has gone to the sea

Closer view

Closer view

White bellied Sea Eagle

White bellied Sea Eagle

This tower is situated about 100m away from Doric Bungalow

This tower is situated about 100m away from Doric Bungalow

We came back to Murunkan junction and went along A14 road till we come across Madu junction. The road to Madu church was in good condition and the distance was 10kms from there.

Entrance to Madu church

Entrance to Madu church

The shrine of our lady of Madu

The shrine of our lady of Madu

Inside of the church

Inside of the church

.

.

It ended our short visit to Mannar and we followed the same route to come back home.

 

Thanks for reading.

 

Waterfall Symphony – Tour de Waterfalls 5…

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Year and Month 16-17 Jul, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew Harinda and Me with two of his friends (Eranga and Gabriel)
Accommodation Pitadeniya Conservation Centre
Transport By Motor Bike
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Maharagama->Horana->Bandaragama->Mathugama->Pelawatte->Neluwa->Thawalama and back to Neluwa.

Neluwa->Thambalagama->Warukandeniya->Lankagama->Pitadeniya->Mederipitiya->Pallegama->Hathmale Ella and back to Pallegama->Deniyaya->Morawaka->Neluwa and back to Colombo.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Pitadeniya Conservation Centre (PCC) booking is done from the Forest Department Office, Battaramulla. We booked the Gin Ganga Niwahana (can accommodate 5 people) for around Rs. 4,480/- per night (doesn’t include the tickets to enter the forest or guide fees).
  • Gin Ganga Nivahana has 2 bedrooms and a well-furnished bathroom and a large veranda facing the Gin Ganga. There’s two-story Pitadeniya Nivahana that can accommodate up to 16 people as well.
  • You have to buy tickets to visit Lankagama Waterfalls and Pitadeniya Waterfalls. Should you visit both of them on the same day; you have to buy tickets only once as they are valid for both of them. If you visit them on two different days (following day), you gotta buy tickets each time.
  • Ticket prices are Rs. 112/- for 4 people. You’ll have to pay for the guide separately. Unlike the Kudawa, there are no specific guide fees allocated (if there was, we didn’t see them) and it’s the only hiccup as the fees for the guides can be varied. (We gave Rs. 500/- for Lankagama and Rs. 1500/- for Pitadeniya)
  • Extra costs include, Rs. 20/- each per individual per meal for gas. In terms of electricity, if you take Diesel, 1 liter will give you 45 mins of electricity. If you can’t bother with that, they’ll charge Rs. 200/- per hour which was not too bad.
  • Take your own linen and things for your meals. There’s a cook and his food is very tasty. Take all the minor items such as spices, salt, onions, chilies, etc. as well with your main ingredients.
  • Just note that there’s no refrigerator at the PCC so avoid taking stuff that need to be stored in a fridge.
  • Check the “Documentary from Pitadeniya Conservation Centre” for details.
  • The road from Neluwa to Lankagama is ok and can manage in even in a car. However there’s a tricky bit about a couple km before the Lankagama Bridge. From Lankagama to Pitadeniya it’s about 4km but the road is extremely muddy, even walking is difficult. The road condition is being worsened by the tea collecting tractors. Take a look at this video, “Mud Battle” to get an idea.
  • Vehicle access is from Lankagama is possible only up to Aranuwa Bridge where Lankagama connects across Aranuwa Dola to Pitadeniya. From here it’s less than a km to the PCC. If you come from Deniyaya, take the Mederipitiya Road via Pallegama. From Mederipitiya (last 1km or so is in very bad condition only a very high ground clearance vehicle can make it) it’s about 1.5-2km to the PCC.
  • However, if you go by Motor Bikes like us, you can go all the way to the PCC, even cross the suspension bridge across Gin Ganga. This is how villagers of Lankagama and Pitadeniya go back and forth. However, I get this nagging feeling long before they’ll use tuk-tuks too. Hopefully Forest Department will curb any further expansion of the path than what it is at the moment.
  • As usual, do help protect the environment as much as possible.
  • Plenty of safe drinking water sources are inside Sinharaja so take a small canteen with you.
  • Leech Protection is highly recommended, especially on the trail to Malmora Ella. I can recommend Alum as a very good leech repellent. We saw how effective it really was in real life. Just wet your feet or shoes and sprinkle Alum over it and it’ll take care of those probing leeches.
  • You can enjoy The Video Journey of these Beauties here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya folks, hope you’ve been doing great and reading plenty of other trip reports and gathering intelligence for the future journeys. Well, here I’m once again with another of Tour de Waterfalls for you to read and enjoy, don’t forget to follow my steps if you’ve not already done so.

It’d been a long time since Harinda and I’d gone on a journey together and when he said that he was gonna get 6 days straight off, I decided to reap the benefits. Hari’s initial plan to visit “Eli Hatha” in Maliboda had to be called off due to intermittent rains and falling on a sudden plan B (in fact it’d been nagging at me for the past year or so), I suggested we visit Pitadeniya searching for some more waterfalls (possibly following Niroshana’s Steps) in and around Neluwa, Lankagama and Pitadeniya.

As per Niro’s report, he’d mentioned about Wedan Ella (unfortunately not been able to visit her) on Neluwa-Thawalama Road. When I mentioned this to Hari, he said that one of his friends, Gabriel is from Thawalama and I prompted him to get the info about this Wedan Ella.

He came up trumps as Gabriel not only knew the falls, but offered to take us and join for the subsequent journey as well. Another friend of Hari, Eranga (Eran for short) who’s originally from Matara also decided to join us for their first-ever hike in this category. Don’t forget to ask Hari how Gabriel and Eranga got their names. It was one of their immigration department friends who found out rather created them.

Hari decided to call Niro asking about the PCC (short for Pitadeniya Conservation Centre) and coincidently he’d been at the Forest Department Office making a booking for Morning Side Bungalow. (Until Niro sends his report, you can check my Morning Side Journey here) He found out that the Gin Ganga Nivahana is free and Hari made the booking on the following day. Everything was planned and we left for Neluwa along Kottawa-Horana-Bandaragama-Pelawatte around 5.00am (even though Hari was planning to come at 4.30am) merrily. The morning breeze chilled us to the marrow and this time unlike our last time when we did Kosmulla Doovili and the Classic Five of Lankagama (Read Hari’s Report) the roads were carpeted and in better condition but Hari’s workhorse refused to go any faster.

Tour Highlights:

1. Wedan Ella, Thawalama.

2. Thambalagama Doovili Ella, Thambalagama.

3. Thambalagama Lower Doovili Ella, Thambalagama.

4. Alibodadola Ella, Warukandeniya.

5. Kohilaketiya Ella, Lankagama.

6. Thattu Ella, Lankagama.

7. Lankagama Doovili Ella, Lankagama.

8. Gal Oruwa Ella, Lankagama.

9. Uran Wetuna Ella, Lankagama.

10. Nuga Deka Ella, Lankagama.

11. Pathan Oya Ella aka Upper Aranuwa Falls, Pitadeniya.

12. Malmora Ella, Pitadeniya.

13. Kekuna Ella aka Wathugala Ella aka Lower Aranuwa Falls, Pitadeniya.

14. Hathmale Ella, Pallegama.

Day 01

We reached Neluwa around 8.30am turned to Udugama Road that runs via Thawalama. Gabriel’s house was about 4-5km from the Neluwa Town and we reached there to find a sumptuous breakfast waiting impatiently for us. Rice and curry along with boiled grams and hot Kochchi made the day and we were given packed Grams for lunch too. Gabriel and his family were great hosts (a vegetarian family) and we got the proper directions from his father to the falls and the correct name “Wedan Ella”.

Wedan Ella

This is located in Suduwellawa, along Neluwa-Thawalama-Udugama road about 3.5km from Neluwa Town. Take the right turn (I’ve given a pic given so that you can identify the turn off) along for about 1km till you reach a house with a footpath running in front to the right. If you go by a vehicle, you can’t go beyond this point; however motor bike will be able to get closer to the waterfall. Take the footpath and about 50 feet later (not meters) it’ll fork into two and take the left hand downhill path all the way. After 100-150m, there’ll be a crossing across the canal that feeds the Wedan Ella. On a rainy day, this would be tricky, especially on a motor bike.

Go from here another 50m or so (the water stream will be to your right) till you reach another fork in the path. One will go to the left (more prominent) and the other will be a bit steep path to the right (you will have to climb a bit to get to the path). From here, you should be able to hear the waterfall and the stream will take a turn to the right. You can easily get to the top of the falls from here by crossing the open area towards the stream carefully.

Just take the right hand path should you wanna get to the base of the falls that runs through tea bushes and after a short distance, you can see the falls to your right. You can get to the base of the falls by following the footpath till the water stream (at the lower end of the path you’ll see an abandoned structure with a well) and walk along uphill the stream.

She was a very beautiful girl, dressed in pristine white and falling down so smoothly (if she was in full flow, getting to the bottom would’ve been a nightmare). We enjoyed our short time with her and Hari being the bulldozer decided to take a short cut and cleared a path through the bushes that brought us to the tea plants and from there to the footpath.

We got back to the Thawalama-Neluwa Road and reached Neluwa and followed the road towards Lankagama turn off when Eran realized Hari’s bike had a puncture. This cost us about 45 mins of precious time but saved lot of trouble as there are no decent repair shops on Lankagama Road. Hari rushed back to Neluwa while we sat on electricity poles and chatted. None of his friends had been to these falls let alone Sinharaja even though staying so close to it. So it was gonna be a first for both of them.  

Turn off at Thawalama Road

Turn off at Thawalama Road

You have to go where the bike is

You have to go where the bike is

After that house, you'll get here

After that house, you’ll get here

The stream going downhill and follow it along the path to the left

The stream going downhill and follow it along the path to the left

We came from downstream

We came from downstream

View blocked

View blocked

The bottom with the base pool

The bottom with the base pool

Upper part

Upper part

Plunging down

Plunging down

Right at the top, I managed to come to the top

Right at the top, I managed to come to the top

Here she is looking like a Mini Dunhinda

Here she is looking like a Mini Dunhinda

View from the top

View from the top

Thamabalagama Doovili Ella

Passing Kosmulla where famous Doovili Ella is located without stopping by coz both Hari and I had been there before, we pushed on towards Thambalagama. You’ll see the Thambalagama Temple to the left (the name will be there on a board with a Buddhist Flag) and just passing this and a bus stop to the right, you will come to a turn off. There’ll be a concrete paved path to the left (this is called Kabaragala or Indigaswila Road) where the Grama Sevaka’s house is located. The left hand turn off is not that visible, the land mark is a Kottamba Tree and open paddy field beyond it.

Take this road till the end of it (about 1.5km from the Lankagama Road, where the concrete paved area is finished). There’s a house to the left and you’ll come to a T junction. The left will be the entrance to the house and you have to take the right hand path. The concrete paved path is so steep and you’ll have trouble even walking along but should be possible with a vehicle up to the last house. Take the right hand footpath for about 100-150m till you reach the water stream with a rudimentary wooden bridge. Follow the water stream to the left, uphill for another 100m or so till you get to the majestic Thambalagama Doovili Ella. If you turn right and follow the water stream downhill, there’ll be 2 more mini falls close by, the first of which is very beautiful and around 12ft in height.

After this we headed further along Lankagama Road towards Warukandeniya.

Turn off towards Lankagama

Turn off towards Lankagama

Thamabalagama Doovili Ella turn off

Thamabalagama Doovili Ella turn off

View along the way, this looks like Bathalegala

View along the way, this looks like Bathalegala

End of the concrete and you have to where Hari's pointing

End of the concrete and you have to where Hari’s pointing

The bridge and to the left along the stream to the main Doovili Ella and to the right, ideally before it will get you to the little sister

The bridge and to the left along the stream to the main Doovili Ella and to the right, ideally before it will get you to the little sister

Just getting close to the Doovili Ella

Just getting close to the Doovili Ella

Lower part

Lower part

There she is

There she is

Bit more to climb

Bit more to climb

Top

Top

Bottom

Bottom

Portrait

Portrait

Thambalagama Lower Doovili Falls

From the wooden bridge turn to the right downstream and you’ll come across this beautiful tiny falls. There’s a footpath that takes you to the base of the falls just before the bridge to the right. You’ll notice another smaller falls a little below as well.

Here's the little sissy

Here’s the little sissy

The top

The top

That tree trunk destroyed the beauty of her

That tree trunk destroyed the beauty of her

It's there no matter what angle

It’s there no matter what angle

The other small one below

The other small one below

Bubbly

Bubbly

Alibodadola Ella

We then reached the Warukandeniya School and Temple Road junction and took the School Road to the left. This turn off is about 4-5km before Lankagama itself. About 100ft from the junction is a notice about the Alibodadola Hydro Power Plant to the right and a foot path that leads to a house. Take that and closer to the house go further downhill and you’ll come to a footpath that runs parallel to the stream which is on the right.

Follow this and after 100m or so, you’ll come to a place where you’ll have to cross the stream and can see the power plant across the waterway. There’s a tree as a bridge (Edanda) across the water stream and once you cross that, you’ll be at the power plant. Behind this is the footpath that runs about 1km till the waterfall. The tunnel that brings water to the power plant runs along this footpath. The waterfall is located where the dam is built to collect and divert water. The path is slippery and leeches are there in full force.

You can see the full falls above the dam and another mini falls below it. There’s another tiny falls about 50-100m before the dam but there was very little water so we didn’t bother getting closer to it through the bushes.

Afterwards it was time to go searching for Beraliya Dola aka Ratawel Dola Falls. We took the school road further up for another 1km or so till we saw the temple to our right and turned towards it. Just before the temple there’s another footpath that goes to a house about 50m away and take that. From the house you have to take another footpath that goes somewhat uphill through tea bushes.

We were informed by the household that the water levels were very low and said if we took the footpath for 100-150m till we climbed up closer to a Veralu Tree, that we can get a distant view of the falls. So we did just that and even though we could hear the water flowing along Beraliya Dola, the place where the waterfall was said to be was nothing but a rocky wall. In fact this was the Beraliya Gal Anda Falls and there was more to go for the Beraliya Dola aka Ratawel Dola Falls. We couldn’t actually see the whole of it but that abysmal view kinda sealed it for us. We decided not to push on and waste time and instead turned around and pushed on towards Lankagama.

Soon as you turn to School Road, here's the turn off

Soon as you turn to School Road, here’s the turn off

They're coming back. You have to follow this and turn to the right downhill near the house

They’re coming back. You have to follow this and turn to the right downhill near the house

She was having lunch when we went

She was having lunch when we went

The Edanda before the power plant

The Edanda before the power plant

Here it is and the footpath behind it

Here it is and the footpath behind it

Water spill of the power plant

Water spill of the power plant

After a steady but slippery climb got to the dam

After a steady but slippery climb got to the dam

Water collected here

Water collected here

Here's the falls, very little water

Here’s the falls, very little water

Separate sections

Separate sections

Separate sections

Separate sections

Downwards

Downwards

Immediately below is this

Immediately below is this

Blocking our path

Blocking our path

Couldn't resist them

Couldn’t resist them

The Alibodadola runs along

The Alibodadola runs along

Waterfalls of Lankagama

We reached Lankagama around 2.30pm and decided to pay a visit to those cluster of waterfalls within close proximity despite Hari and me having done it last November. I was nonetheless skeptical about the water levels but looking at Brahmana Falls from the Lankagama Bridge made me wanna go see them again. Last time I couldn’t take a video of Lankagama Doovili Ella so this seemed like a good opportunity.

We got the tickets luckily just before they closed the counter as there were not many visitors and entered the virgin forest.

Recently built bridge and Brahmana Ella is beyond those trees

Recently built bridge and Brahmana Ella is beyond those trees

It says everything

It says everything

Pretty short one

Pretty short one

Kohilaketiya Falls

As you might know, the trails divided into 3 parts, the left taking you to Brahmana Falls (usually this is done at last), the middle and the right joins in a circular trail. They usually take the middle one and then circle around and come down along the right hand side footpath. We did the same like the last time.

However, this time, I noticed something unusual. As soon as we reached the water stream (Hariyawa Dola) just below the Mahagaldoruwa, there’s a dam built diverting the water towards the mini hydro power plant near the bridge. However, the spill and other streams make a somewhat larger waterfall. I stopped in my tracks and slowly got closer to it despite Hari’s protest about not having enough time. “5 mins per waterfall buddy” I shouted after him. Gosh, she was a beauty but a frontal view was out of the question and I had to contend with side angle view of her. She reminded me of a compact version of Dodamgallena Falls in Rassagala Road. Does this make the Classic 5 now 6?

Our guide leading the way

Our guide leading the way

Water collection where the Kohilaketiya Falls is to the left

Water collection where the Kohilaketiya Falls is to the left

Overflowing

Overflowing

Here she is but darn, another tree trunk

Here she is but darn, another tree trunk

Top of her

Top of her

The curve in the middle

The curve in the middle

Not possible to get a frontal view

Not possible to get a frontal view

Thattu Ella

Crossing the Hariyawa Dola (Hari kept saying that it was named after him and show how old he really is if it’s the case) we entered the ever so wide Thattu Ella. Nonetheless, the water levels compared to our last visit were not grand but better than the ones outside Sinharaja. There was a group of people already visiting and they were settling for a cool dip at the base pool and we kept on, after my 5 min picture break, towards Lankagama Doovili ella.

Top of the Kohilaketiya Falls

Top of the Kohilaketiya Falls

Crossing Hariyawa Dola

Crossing Hariyawa Dola

Gushing down

Gushing down

Thattu Ella, but not much water

Thattu Ella, but not much water

Top floor

Top floor

Sliding down

Sliding down

Going towards Lankagama Doovili Ella

Going towards Lankagama Doovili Ella

Lankagama Doovili Ella

Out of all the Doovili Falls in Sri Lanka, this is my second favorite after Kaltota Doovili Ella. She’s so glamorous in a very different way but even sitting inside Sinharaja hasn’t left her unscathed. They’ve diverted water from the top of her and due to the relatively low level of water we could see the pipeline clearly. Our two new guys were hypnotized by the sheer beauty of her and we turned around and followed the path back to Mahagaldoruwa.

Here she is

Here she is

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Base pool and the bottom

Base pool and the bottom

Crystal clear water

Crystal clear water

Everyone except Gabriel in front of Thattu Ella

Everyone except Gabriel in front of Thattu Ella

Gal Oruwa Ella

You’ll then have to go uphill in search of Gal Oruwa, well there’ nothing to search as it’s there to see in plain view and above her you’ll see the lower part of Uran Wetuna Ella and it’s near impossible to get to the base of it. She as usual looks very fearsome and scary. I couldn’t fathom falling into that crevice.

This is when our guide mentioned about another waterfall which is to be unveiled pretty soon, as long as Forest Department folks get to it. This is called Nuga Deka Ella (as it falls between two Nuga trees, unfortunately one had fallen off during the heavy rains and hopefully they won’t change the name to Nuga Eka Ella) and located above the top of Uran Wetuna Ella.

Mahagaldoruwa

Mahagaldoruwa

Top of Gal Oruwa Ella with the Lower part of Uran Wetuna Ella also seen

Top of Gal Oruwa Ella with the Lower part of Uran Wetuna Ella also seen

Hard to capture her

Hard to capture her

Ferocious

Ferocious

Fierce Rock Boat

Fierce Rock Boat

Uran Wetuna Ella

Further away from Gal Oruwa Ella is the middle of Uran Wetuna Ella. You can clearly see the upper part of it and a side view of the lower part while coming up to the center. Due to low water levels I could get up closer to the base of the upper falls and from there I saw the distant view of Nuga Deka Falls. You can probably see it in one of videos. So this is breaking news I’m bringing you. According to the guide, they have plans to clear the path very soon to the base of it and that means you’ll get to the top of the Uran Wetuna Ella too.

Lower part of Uran Wetuna Ella taken along the way

Lower part of Uran Wetuna Ella taken along the way

That bit from the top, further down is Gal Oruwa Ella

That bit from the top, further down is Gal Oruwa Ella

Upper part of Uran Wetuna Ella, note the extreme top of her is Nuga Deka Ella

Upper part of Uran Wetuna Ella, note the extreme top of her is Nuga Deka Ella

Close up

Close up

Nuga Deka zoomed in all the way

Nuga Deka zoomed in all the way

That tree destroyed a great pic

That tree destroyed a great pic

We were in the middle of them

We were in the middle of them

See the destruction in search of Walla Patta?

See the destruction in search of Walla Patta?

Brahmana Ella

Last of the collection was Brahmana Ella and we stopped to get a much needed rest. She too had less water than the last time but better than many in the area.

Brahmana Ella

Brahmana Ella

This is deep

This is deep

Portrait

Portrait

Lower part of her

Lower part of her

Got around for a better view

Got around for a better view

From a distance

From a distance

The full package

The full package

Pitadeniya Conservation Centre

We then went to the nearby shop to buy the food items required for our stay. After a lot of deliberation, we were finally on our way about 4.30pm. To our horror, the road from Lankagama to Pitadeniya is under construction and there were half a dozen places the whole road is completely muddy and practically impassable even on foot let alone in a bike. Hari and Eran took the brunt of the work and kept going getting their shoes drenched in the mud a few times. Finally we reached the Aranuwa Bridge where the village connects with the Sinharaja across Aranuwa Dola.

They’d started concreting the road but only done about 50 feet and from what we heard the going was very slow. Hopefully they’ll finish it before the end of the year. Well here we were at the border of the one of the most prestigious rain forest in the world and I’ve managed to finally arrive in all 4 entrances to the Sinharaja.

It was a godsend that we decided to come on bikes as it’s possible to reach the PCC on bikes easily. If you however come using other means of travelling, this is where you stop them and start walking. It’s roughly 600-800m to the PCC and a walk worth every step. The whole path is shaded and you can hear birds chirping (this is a bird heaven, let me tell ya) and we rode along, the cool breeze and the shade reviving our battered bodies.

We reached the suspension bridge across Gin Ganga, the length is about 50m and there was a tiny concrete layer joining the steps so that bikes could go through. Hari and Eran carefully maneuvered to the other side and we were finally home as the dusk was falling. Having checked in with the duty officer we were shown to the kitchen to hand over our goods and the cook took down our orders for the rest of the stay. Then we reached our bungalow, “Gin Ganga Nivahana” which looked tranquil amid the falling dusk and we could see the river flowing merrily about 100ft away.

Unexpectedly, the two (a triple and a double) rooms were sparsely furnished and the washroom was in very good condition. We’d arranged for the electricity to be on from 6.30pm to 9.30pm and immediately went for a bath in the river. Hari started giving swimming lessons to Gabriel and Eran while I looked on. The darkness fell heavily on us enveloping the surroundings like a black coat. There was a hint of rain in the air and we hurried back to the bungalow to find it’s already illuminating with electricity.

We reflected on the day’s events and planned for the following day. After a hearty dinner, we all settled in for the night, wrapped in blankets against the chill. Continuous flow of the river kept us company while the night life of the jungle came awake. We had a good sleep and I was up early kick-waking Hari.

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

"Leli kedei paya burulen thaba waren"

“Leli kedei paya burulen thaba waren”

Gin Ganga Komaliya

Gin Ganga Komaliya

The middle is concreted to accommodate bikes

The middle is concreted to accommodate bikes

Main office with a lecture hall on top

Main office with a lecture hall on top

Shaky looking, ain't it?

Shaky looking, ain’t it?

Our bungalow

Our bungalow

Gin Ganga Sewana

Gin Ganga Sewana

Day 02

Having got up early and after our morning tea, we went for a stroll along the path where we came on the bike previous evening. It was still slightly dark inside the forest and we enjoyed it to the max. We walked up to Aranuwa Bridge and turned around. Got back at the PCC and went about getting ready for the day. Having packed everything coz the guide said it’d take 4-5hrs to finish the trail, we went for breakfast. Then it was time to head into the jungle searching for three more sexy girls hiding from the prying eyes.

Pitadeniya Nivahana is huge

Pitadeniya Nivahana is huge

Going out for stroll

Going out for stroll

Good Morning!

Good Morning!

Cascades

Cascades

Coming colors no good

Coming colors no good

See, I told you

See, I told you

Towards the Kitchen

Towards the Kitchen

Here it is

Here it is

I kept wondering if I could be this officer for a month or two

I kept wondering if I could be this officer for a month or two

Educational stuff

Educational stuff

From the sleeping clothes

From the sleeping clothes

Morning stroll

Morning stroll

Well sign-posted

Well sign-posted

This is where later in the day Eran fell

This is where later in the day Eran fell

You can't get lost here

You can’t get lost here

Magical path

Magical path

Aranuwa Bridge

Aranuwa Bridge

Skeleton of the bridge

Skeleton of the bridge

Aranuwa Dola that makes Pathan Oya and Kekuna Ella

Aranuwa Dola that makes Pathan Oya and Kekuna Ella

Here we all are

Here we all are

Wal Duriyan

Wal Duriyan

Common specie and die in vain getting caught to vehicles

Common specie and die in vain getting caught to vehicles

Pinum Katussa, out for a morning exercise run

Pinum Katussa, out for a morning exercise run

Valuable info

Valuable info

Getting back to bungalow

Getting back to bungalow

"Hiya sweety!"

“Hiya sweety!”

No hiding from me

No hiding from me

Built kinda on top of pillars

Built kinda on top of pillars

Verandah

Verandah

Room 1

Room 1

Room 2

Room 2

Washrooms, that's not a real deer skull on the wall

Washrooms, that’s not a real deer skull on the wall

Gin Ganga is just there

Gin Ganga is just there

Been to all 4 entrances now

Been to all 4 entrances now

Pathan Oya Ella

We had to get back to Aranuwa Bridge once again as the trail starts along the Aranuwa Dola under the bridge. As soon as we entered, noticed a green vine snake. On the way there were a few more snakes which we couldn’t see properly but one of them was a specie of the green vine snake but reddish brown in color. There was another green lizard (Bodilima if I’m not mistaken) but forgotten the actual name.

We reached the waterfall soon enough despite a few hallmark breaks of Hari. It was 1.5km from the turn off and the path was fully shaded. It’s an experience every human being should get. The falls looked so beautiful but the peering sun made it difficult as it was in our face. After a countless number of Hari’s pleas, we left for Kekuna Ella.

Ready to go

Ready to go

Green tape?

Green tape?

Oh, it's this fella

Oh, it’s this fella

Nearby stranger

Nearby stranger

Closer

Closer

Gorgeous colors

Gorgeous colors

Leading in front

Leading in front

Button mushrooms?

Button mushrooms?

Aranuwa Dola

Aranuwa Dola

Turn off to Pathan Oya is just beyond this

Turn off to Pathan Oya is just beyond this

Here we are

Here we are

Another roadblock

Another roadblock

Paths are wide and open

Paths are wide and open

Plate

Plate

Taking a rest

Taking a rest

This one's called "Thal Ataya"

This one’s called “Thal Ataya”

Curvy

Curvy

Wal Duriyan out in the open

Wal Duriyan out in the open

Rested here for a refill

Rested here for a refill

This is it

This is it

Circus Hari

Circus Hari

Pinum Katusu Panchek going to school

Pinum Katusu Panchek going to school

Now nearby

Now nearby

So cute

So cute

We're here

We’re here

Sun rays making it hard to capture her

Sun rays making it hard to capture her

Here she is

Here she is

The top

The top

Not much water

Not much water

Sending millions of water droplets

Sending millions of water droplets

Goes downhill

Goes downhill

Thadi Hariya Hira Wela

Thadi Hariya Hira Wela

Washing machine tree?

Washing machine tree?

Heading towards Kekuna Ella

Heading towards Kekuna Ella

Malmora Ella

On our back we took the path parallel to Aranuwa Dola which creates both Pathan Oya Ella aka Upper Aranuwa Falls and Kekuna aka Lower Aranuwa aka Wathugala Ella towards the lower end before joining Gin Ganga. We reached the Kekuna Ella but without stopping to appreciate her looks, kept on going towards Malmora Ella about 2.5km away on a leech-infested and less-travelled footpath. According to our guide, not many people visit Malmora Falls, their main attraction is Kekuna Ella and a few of them dare visit Pathan Oya Ella.

I was surprised how effective Alum was against leeches. Eran was unaffected since he applied them and we were doubly affected as a result. It seemed to take forever through largely overgrown path at many places, fallen trees blocking it then and there. All of a sudden, our guide pointed at a Pala Polanga (Sri Lankan Green Pit Viper, thanks Google) which was perched on a tree in its typical entangled way, without moving a muscle. It was my first sighting of a kind and took a long time picturing the fella while leeches slowly crept up on me.

Afterwards it was a run to the falls and when we reached there, I was shocked by the sheer height of it but there was very little water. Having spent about 15 mins replenishing our water stocks, we hurried back all the way to Kekuna Ella without stopping for a bit.

The Sambar Deer must be hovering in this area to be called "Gona Thuththiri Mandiya"

The Sambar Deer must be hovering in this area to be called “Gona Thuththiri Mandiya”

Some more of them

Some more of them

Back to Aranuwa Dola

Back to Aranuwa Dola

There's Kekuna Kekuli, but we'll see you on the way

There’s Kekuna Kekuli, but we’ll see you on the way

Going to the side of the waterway

Going to the side of the waterway

They were like traffic cops but no bribes needed

They were like traffic cops but no bribes needed

The first attack clearly visible but there after no more

The first attack clearly visible but there after no more

Shining

Shining

Looks like Bronze

Looks like Bronze

Wow

Wow

"Are you sleeping?"

“Are you sleeping?”

We are here

We are here

Mostly rocky boulders

Mostly rocky boulders

Part of her

Part of her

The top

The top

Tiny tiny cascaded getting together

Tiny tiny cascaded getting together

Sun went away and this is a better view

Sun went away and this is a better view

Almost stepped on him

Almost stepped on him

Pudding, anyone?

Pudding, anyone?

Kekuna Ella

After the somewhat difficult hike, Kekuna Ella looked even more appealing, especially up close. We all jumped into the water so wash away the weariness and tension in the muscles. The water was cool to the touch as we all enjoyed a nice half hour of blissful joy. It was sad to bid farewell to this beauty, most beautiful out of the three in Pitadeniya but we had a long journey back. There was a large crowd, about 50-60 people who’d come from Padiyatalawa to enjoy the beauty of Kekuna Ella.

We left and on the way saw the gigantic Hora Tree, significant one similar to Nawanda Tree at Kudawa. We all enjoyed a good lunch and bid our farewell to the staff at PCC and got on our bikes to head towards Deniyaya via Mederipitiya and Pallegama as Hari wanted to avoid the muddy road at all costs. As soon as we left Eran, trying to climb a steep and narrow hill on our way, fell sending an alarm through us. Thankfully he wasn’t seriously hurt, and the bike suffered a broken side mirror. We then rode carefully over the narrow path towards Deniyaya End, about 1.5km.

From the ticket counter, the road was in terrible condition for another 800-1000m. Afterwards it was a scenic drive through lush green paddy fields and hilly forests in the distance.

Just look at her

Just look at her

Closer

Closer

Amazing, but you see another tree trunk?

Amazing, but you see another tree trunk?

Top of her

Top of her

That darn tree trunk is clearly visible now

That darn tree trunk is clearly visible now

When she's full, the whole rocky wall must be full of water

When she’s full, the whole rocky wall must be full of water

Not Wela or Waraka, but a mushroom

Not Wela or Waraka, but a mushroom

Gigantic Hora Tree

Gigantic Hora Tree

The best of the lot, can you see the mosquito feeding on him. This was the same fella at the same time on our return journey

The best of the lot, can you see the mosquito feeding on him. This was the same fella at the same time on our return journey

Tasty curry is made out of these

Tasty curry is made out of these

This is the link between Lankagama and Mederipitiya

This is the link between Lankagama and Mederipitiya

Hathmale Ella

She was the secret ace up our sleeves. We reached Pallegama and turned right towards Beliaththakumbura. About 4km from the turn off there’s a sign (you might miss if you don’t keep an eye out for it) to your right with a slab-paved road called Hathmale Ella Road. This is just before a iron-railing bridge, a good landmark should you oversee the sign.

Along this road, you have to go for another 2.3km to reach the falls. The road will parallel the Gin Ganga and the falls is created by this massive water stream stopping abruptly and then crashing along the very wide rocky wall. We were tired but just the sight of this waterfall made my heart beat faster and ran the short path with steps downhill while rest of the crew were crawling by. She was a sight to behold and worth every second of it.

The legend says she falls in 7 segments but we could see clearly 4 major parts. There were only 50+ pics remaining in my memory card so I had to be very careful of the pics I took. Gosh it hurt to have only that many left but managed to finish them off just on time. Luckily there were no more photographic opportunities along the journey back.

Mederipitiya Ticket Counter

Mederipitiya Ticket Counter

Key locations

Key locations

Ayubowan

Ayubowan

The path starts from here for 1.5km to PCC

The path starts from here for 1.5km to PCC

Tend to overlook this

Tend to overlook this

The first batch of steps

The first batch of steps

Third stage of the falls

Third stage of the falls

Nicely made

Nicely made

Second and Third stages, you see the fisherman?

Second and Third stages, you see the fisherman?

Top parts

Top parts

Lower ends

Lower ends

Didn't catch anything while we were there

Didn’t catch anything while we were there

She's a beauty

She’s a beauty

Lower part

Lower part

Most of her

Most of her

Here's the Gin Ganga before the falls

Here’s the Gin Ganga before the falls

She falls down at the far end

She falls down at the far end

Bidding our farewell to this sensational girl, we got back on the bikes and settled for the long journey back. It was gone 10pm by the time we reached home and Hari was falling asleep at the handle.

Well, guys hope you enjoyed this marathon of waterfalls and thinking about a suitable name, my phone rang, the ringing tone is “Ikigasa Handana, Atheethayaka” by Amarasiri Pieris of “Butterfly Symphony” so decided to call this report “Waterfall Symphony” as it really is like a symphony that makes your mind and body relax at the same time.

Hope you enjoyed this as much as I enjoyed getting this across to you. I’ll see you next with my 2nd Year Anniversary Report, yet another waterfall hunt like the 1st Year Anniversary. Coincidently, this time too I happened to be with my beloved, now dying, St. Claire and amazing Devon…

Take care and keep travelling!

Sri…

When in Love

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Year and Month June, 2014
Number of Days Ten
Crew Two of us
Accommodation
Transport Car & other methods
Activities Everything
Weather mixed weather
Route
  • First part: Maharagama -> E1 -> Matara -> Tangalle -> Kahandamodara -> Hambanthota -> Mattala -> Wellawaya -> Buttala -> Maligawila -> Monaragala -> Bibile -> Mahiyangana -> Dehiattakandiya -> Manampitiya -> Girithale -> Minneriya -> Sigiriya -> Dambulla-> Kurunegala -> Chilaw
  • Second part: Chilaw -> Colombo -> Kalupahana -> Haputhale -> Boralanda -> Ohiya -> HP -> Pattipola -> Nuwara eliya -> Kandy -> Kurunegala -> Chilaw -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Do not disturb wild life

***Special thanks to*** NG & Yohan

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
The route map

The route map – Green first part, Purple second part

This was a once in a life time trip and I wanted it to be a spectacular one. When one is in a romantic mood its always best to stay close to mother nature and far away from the busy world. This is what we did in our little paradise nation within 10 days. So let the pictures say our story. Our first and second day of relaxation was at Back of beyond Kahandamodara. This was absolutely the paradise we searched for. Two days of perfect harmony with many activities to pass ones time like boat rides in lagoons, cycling and etc. Thanks Yohan for building such a lovely place. The staff was simply the best; you don’t get good guys like them at 5 start hotels.

our paradise at Kahandamodara

our paradise at Kahandamodara

Beautifuly blended with nature

Beautifuly blended with nature

The new Sandy at Kahandamodara

The new Sandy at Kahandamodara

we took a cycle tour to the beach on the evening after arrival and it was rewarding

we took a cycle tour to the beach on the evening after arrival and it was rewarding

day 2 we took a boat ride in Kalamatiya lagoon which was full

day 2 we took a boat ride in Kalamatiya lagoon which was full

these guys charge Rs 2500 for a full tour

these guys charge Rs 2500 for a full tour

lovely

lovely

 the largest king fisher in SL

the largest king fisher in SL

few Indian darters

few Indian darters

plenty of LW ducks

plenty of LW ducks

great hide out for birds

great hide out for birds

next we visited Wehera 9 dhageba

next we visited Wehera 9 dhageba

BOB Kalametiya was round the corner so paid a visit there too

BOB Kalametiya was round the corner so paid a visit there too

View from BOB Kalametiya

View from BOB Kalametiya

the lovely beach

the lovely beach

ha ha we rode bicycles and also trishaws

ha ha we rode bicycles and also trishaws

that evening we took another boat ride in Kahandamodara lagoon

that evening we took another boat ride in Kahandamodara lagoon

Keran koku which we had as lunch

Keran koku which we had as lunch

this is fed by urubokka oya

this is fed by urubokka oya

lagoon flora

lagoon flora

endless scenery

endless scenery

 looking back towards gongala

looking back towards gongala

where salt water meets fresh water

where salt water meets fresh water

 back to routine

back to routine

here it goes

here it goes

the huge grass land near BOB Kahandamodara adjoining the lagoon, this is a nice place to explore

the huge grass land near BOB Kahandamodara adjoining the lagoon, this is a nice place to explore

plenty of these guys

plenty of these guys

yummy

yummy

a BBQ night

a BBQ night

these two were wonderful chaps

these two were wonderful chaps

After a two night stay we left towards Hambanthota and after going in circles we reached the newly opened dry zone botanical garden at Mirijjawela. Since the walk was a 5Km one we decided to hire a golf cart for 500/=(per hr) and wonder around. This ride was an interesting one and our knowledgeable driver did his best to explain us about all the different kind of plants. For me the best section was the plant house with hundreds of cactus plants. From here we took the road through Mattala to Thanamalwila.

Newly opened dry zone botanical garden

Newly opened dry zone botanical garden

the herbal section

the herbal section

inside these there are many orchids

inside these there are many orchids

they come in white

they come in white

and purple

and purple

dried out artifical lake

dried out artificial lake

 imitating Peradeniya walking path

imitating Peradeniya walking path

these were blooming everywhere

these were blooming everywhere

a lake with water

a lake with water

the driver took the pic

the driver took the pic

landscaped

landscaped

oh my god

oh my god

so many varieties

so many varieties

Our next stop was Buduruwagala and from there we went towards Maligawila. After hanging around Maligawila we had a nice orange juice and took an unplanned visit to ancient Galtemmandiya temple. To reach Galtemmandiya one needs to go along Okkampitiya road and just before Maligawila there is a board put up by Uva tourist board on the left hand side. That day we ended our tour at my luxurious resting place at Monaragala.

main statue at Buduruwagala

main statue at Buduruwagala

some paint and plaster still remains

some paint and plaster still remains

appreciating ancient sculpture

appreciating ancient sculpture

path towards Maligawila

path towards Maligawila

the large Dhambegoda bodhisatva statue

the large Dhambegoda bodhisatva statue

a guard stone

a guard stone

tallest ancient buddha statue in SL

tallest ancient buddha statue in SL

 he has learned how to open a tap

he has learned how to open a tap

Flower alter

Flower alter

all these sculptures were done by lime stone

all these sculptures were done by crystallized lime stone

a serpant eagle

a serpent eagle

Galtemmandiya ancient temple

Galtemmandiya ancient temple

a korawak stone

a korawak stone

siripatula

siripatula

Paddyfilds of Okkampitiya

Paddyfilds of Okkampitiya

On day 4 we left Monaragala early in the morning and reached Dehigaha Ela at around 12pm. This again like Kahandamodara was another paradise and we were going to stay there for two awesome nights. After having a quick tour around we hired a safari jeep to take us to Minneriya park where we were greeted by hundreds of elephants who were grazing around. We were also lucky enough to note Enigma the tusker in action.

our destination

our destination

Sepalika cottage at dehigaha ela

Sepalika cottage at dehigaha ela

In the wilderness

In the wilderness

off we go in search of elephants

off we go in search of elephants

this one scared us

this one scared us

dried out reservoir

dried out reservoir

they were busy

they were busy

majestic Enigma

majestic Enigma

playful

playful

running to mama

running to mama

milk time

milk time

minneri tank

minneri tank

few open bills

few open bills

three musketeres

three musketeers

flying pelican

flying pelican

we got some help

we got some help

view from Pahala thilkote lake while returning back

view from Pahala thilkote lake while returning back

a mugger we noticed at Sigiriya Diya agala

a mugger we noticed at Sigiriya Diya agala

On day 5 we left towards Pidurangala and climbed on top of the windy rock. Most of the time we were crawling around to prevent been blown away. After returning back from Pidurangala we had a nice bath at Dehigaha ela and did some archeology and bat cave exploration that evening. Day 6 we returned back to Chilaw and day 7 was the rest day.

Good morning at Dehigaha ela

Good morning at Dehigaha ela

the pink lotus

the pink lotus

many species were hunting for honey

many species were hunting for honey

husband on duty

husband on duty

a common Lora

a common Lora

what beautiful tree house

what beautiful tree house

Steps at Pidurangala

Steps at Pidurangala

 Pagoda at Pidurangala

Pagoda at Pidurangala

a kutiya

a kutiya

buddha statue just before the summit

buddha statue just before the summit

Summit of pidurangala with two pagodas

Summit of pidurangala with two pagodas

what a scenery

what a scenery

towards Ritigala

towards Ritigala

endless view

endless view

Minneriya rservoir

Minneriya reservoir

the minneriya national park

the minneriya national park

 the colours were superb

the colours were superb

framed rock

framed rock

many travelers climbing the rock

many travelers climbing the rock

it was windy

it was windy

towards arangala and menikdena

towards arangala and menikdena

I love this one

I love this one

Pano towards Ritigala

Pano towards Ritigala

Pano towards Sigiriya

Pano towards Sigiriya

another frame

another frame

We stayed at the family cottage on the next day

We stayed at the family cottage on the next day

spacious place

spacious place

Kiri oya

Kiri oya

Dehigaha ela meeting kiri oya

Dehigaha ela meeting kiri oya

endemic

endemic

 I call this fellow the dry zone crow because they are so common

I call this fellow the dry zone crow because they are so common

view from the top of bat cave

view from the top of bat cave

on the way to the bat cave

on the way to the bat cave

the bat cave where once monks meditated

the bat cave where once monks meditated

he was busy

he was busy

found some time to spend at the natural fish spa

found some time to spend at the natural fish spa

Gal Pandiyas loving my feet

Gal Pandiyas loving my feet

On day 8 both of us wanted to do some trekking so we took a bus to Kalupahana. But it was a day with continuous rain and we were kept indoors at Bambarakanda rest for most of the day. Finally we got a window of 2hours without showers so we walked along the Ohiya road and descended to the top of the full flowing Bambarakanda falls. From there we visited Lanka ella and returned back to the cottage in pouring rain

a gloomy day at kalupahana

a gloomy day at kalupahana

wow full flow during the dry season lucky us

wow full flow during the dry season lucky us

on the way scenery along ohiya road

on the way scenery along ohiya road

playful doggy

playful doggy

 Idalgasinna covered in mist

Idalgasinna covered in mist

scenery just before V cut

scenery just before V cut

view from the pines plot

view from the pines plot

plunging down

plunging down

Top of Bambarakanda fall

Top of Bambarakanda fall

side view

side view

on the way to lanka ella

on the way to lanka ella

lower lanka ella cascade

lower lanka ella cascade

lanka ella

lanka ella

Bambarakanda while raining

Bambarakanda while raining

splendid view from bambarakanda rest

splendid view from bambarakanda rest

Next day morning the sun shined brightly and we asked Mrs Mayakaduwa to arrange a guide to take us to Uduwara and Nagadowa falls. Thanks to the previous days shower the cascades were decent in water levels. After returning to Bambarakanda rest Mrs. Mayakaduwa arranged us some lunch and a trishaw to Horton plains via Haputhale.

next day scenery from Lampuwatta while trekking to nagadowa falls

next day scenery from Lampuwatta while trekking to nagadowa falls

towards lower ohiya

towards lower ohiya

both falls together

both falls together

met it by chance

met it by chance

Uduwara falls

Uduwara falls

Nagadow falls blessed with the previous day showers

Nagadow falls blessed with the previous day showers

 lower part of nagadowa

lower part of nagadowa

wow

wow

 view from haputhale while traveling on trishaw

view from haputhale while traveling on trishaw

cascade found close to boralanda

cascade found close to boralanda

We reached Horton plains at around 2pm and we completed the circular trail in 2 ½ hours. We were blessed with the weather and the windy nature kept the worlds end clear. From Horton plains we went towards Nuwara eliya and on the 10th day we returned back home to end our memorable trip. Within few days with plenty of time to relax we did manage to visit different types of geographical locations like beeches, national parks, waterfalls, mountains etc. This was a perfect trip for us and was just the type of outing both of us expected.

we reached the plains

we reached the plains

the friendly guy

the friendly guy

one of those shots

one of those shots

ashoka

ashoka

chimmney pool

chimmney pool

and it flows

and it flows

it was bit lonely

it was bit lonely

leg of mutton pool

leg of mutton pool

Slab rock falls

Slab rock falls

 Bakers in full flow

Bakers in full flow

close up

close up

plenty of these

plenty of these

 Young belihul oya

Young belihul oya

love the colours

love the colours

the famous drop

the famous drop

 non perial estate

non perial estate

the not so fascinating view

the not so fascinating view

Samanala wewa and the mountain with mana is Adara kanda

Samanala wewa and the mountain with mana is Adara kanda

Gommolli and balathoduwa peaks

Gommolli and balathoduwa peaks

a darker version

a darker version

not my beard

not my beard

 I always love the view from Mini worlds end rather than the greater one

I always love the view from Mini worlds end rather than the greater one

flower of seetha pera

flower of seetha pera

in to the forest

in to the forest

 reaching the end of the circular trail which took only 2 and a half hours

reaching the end of the circular trail which took only 2 and a half hours

finally met a pack of them

finally met a pack of them

good bye misty plains

good bye misty plains

 

Encircling the Kotmale Reservoir – Tour de Waterfalls 7…

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Year and Month 26 Jul, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Athula, Tony and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Jeep
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Archaeology, etc…
Weather Gloomy and occasional showers…
Route Maharagama->Avissawella->Ginigathhena->Nawalapitiya->Harangala via Hapugasthalawa->Kumbaloluwa->Thawalanthenna->Ramboda->Pussellawa->Ulapane via Pussellawa-Ulapane Road->Nawalapitiya->Back to Maharagama same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • The road condition from N’Pitiya to Thawalanthenna via Hapugasthalawa and Harangala are ok but the road is narrow (if you can remember how Hatton-Thalawakelle Road looked like).
  • Harangala Waterfall is under the second bridge. You’ll come across two back to back bridges just passing the turn off to the Kotmale Dam and the waterfall is under the second one. You can climb down to the base of the falls about 100m from the bridge to the left.
  • To view the Top of Puna Ella, go passing Ramboda Ella about 2km, passing the view point too, and take the right hand turn through Ranbodde Estate for 500m.
  • To get down to the Ramboda Oya Lower Falls, you have to walk through Ramboda Falls Hotel (RFH) about 800m. Please ask for their permission.
  • You have to buy tickets to view the Kotmale Reservoir and the Dam, it’s Rs. 30/- each and the counter is open from 08.30am to 04.30pm.
  • Keep an eye out for the second longest suspension bridge in SL passing the Kotmale Dam about 1-2km away and close to Kotmale Holiday Resort, to your left (The longest is in Ruwanwella and this is in close contest with Nakkawita). This is located in Nugawela.
  • The Dehadu Kadulla, where the entrance from Ruhuna to Maya is located along Mahaweli Maha Seya Road close to Kotmale Dam at Kadadora Village.
  • As usual, take care of the environment and minimize the use of polythene and plastic. Dispose of them properly.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Well, it’s been a long run of waterfalls this year and just realized I’ve written 6 other Tour de Waterfalls before this and was very much surprised by it. All in all, it’s so far been a remarkable year for me but sadly, due to the decrease in the rains (anyway this time the rains were few and far between) this might be the last of waterfalls hunts of South Western Monsoons. I’ll have to hope at least this time; the North Eastern Monsoons will arrive on time to cover the falls on that side of the mountains.

After a long pause, I managed to convince Tony finally to join with us for a trip with the permission of his boss. Atha too joined with us but Sheham, our longtime partner, couldn’t make it due to various reasons. It would’ve been nice had we all four could do this but it wasn’t to be. I don’t now have to tell you this is gonna be all about waterfalls (well the name suggest that much) and will come to the point without dragging any more.

Atha picked me around 3.45am on 26th July and we then got Tony on board and took the Avissawella-Ginigathhena Road. It was good to be back with the old couple as it’s always full of many stories, most of them are hilarious. They kept at it right throughout and I hardly managed to get a word in edgeways. The Kelani River looked placid in the wee hours and the mist hung over her like a veil. We enjoyed her company most of the way. Reaching Nawalapitiya, the skies looked grey, heavily laden with rain clouds and I was thrilled as it meant more water for the waterfalls. You’d be surprised how low the water levels become even after a few days of rain.

This proved to be the case with Ramboda and surrounding waterfalls despite there had been a lot of rains even during last week. We took the Hapugasthalawa Road and then turned onto Harangala. As soon as we turned, there was a nice shop and we stopped for breakfast where they served hot, hot Coconut Rotti with mouthwatering Lunu Miris, delicious Kola Kenda and authentic Peni Walalu. We all stuffed ourselves to the tip and were on our way passing the Hapugasthalawa Tank.

Tour Highlights:

  1.  Harangala Falls, Harangala.
  2. Gane Ela Falls, Thispane.
  3. Wewahena Falls 1, 2 & 3, Kalapitiya.
  4. Devathura Falls, Ramboda.
  5. Ramboda Oya Centre Falls, Ramboda.
  6. Ramboda Oya Upper Falls, Ramboda.
  7. Ramboda Oya Lower Falls, Ramboda.
  8. Puna Falls, Ramboda.
  9. Kandamulla Ella, Ramboda.
  10. Mahaweli Maha Seya, Kotmale.
  11. Dehadu Kadulla, Kadadora.
  12. Kotmale Dam & Reservoir, Kotmale.
  13. Nugawela Suspension Bridge, Kotmale.

 

Harangala Falls

I’ve seen a pic of this on Google maps under places and tried many times to go there but it looked a bit of a detour. However, this time I got lucky as we took Hapugasthalawa-Harangala road instead of Nawalapitiya-Gampola as we’d initially planned. It’s about 12km to Harangala from Nawalapitiya and the road is narrow but in good condition, not to forget that this is one of the most scenic routes in SL. Hope you’ve ready my Tour de Waterfalls 6 as it too was a very scenic drive from N’Pitiya to Dimbula. This is easy to be missed out to the casual eye as not many are aware of a waterfall here. You’ll see the left turn off towards Kotmale Dam in Harangala Junction and soon as you passed it there will be two bridges located close to each other within about 50-100m.

The waterfall is found underneath the second bridge. Pass that and after another 50m or so, there’s a narrow path that goes downhill. Take this and you’ll reach the base of the falls where the Harangala School is also located. There wasn’t a great deal of water but we enjoyed this newfound girl.

View along the way

View along the way

Mahaweli Maha Seya kept up with us

Mahaweli Maha Seya kept up with us

Closer

Closer

From the bridge, upper part of Harangala Falls

From the bridge, upper part of Harangala Falls

We got down and here she is

We got down and here she is

Not much water

Not much water

Closer

Closer

What would be like when in full flow

What would be like when in full flow

Side view

Side view

Gane Ella Falls

We continued on along this scenic road where Mahaweli Maha Seya and Kotmale Reservoir kept up with us most of the time. The view would’ve been splendor had the weather was clear but gloomy skies made the pics bleak. Yet this didn’t stop us enjoying the view any less. We found a shop with a view point of Kotmale Reservoir and stopped for a cuppa tea. The reservoir bore very little water and wonders what had happened to all the rain.

Passing this, we reached a shop with plenty of Durian for sale in Thispane Kanda area and Atha wanted to go see. It was great that we stopped there as there was a somewhat larger falls behind the shop. An old uncle (as old as Tony) said it’s called Gane Ela. We didn’t buy any Durian in the end but took many pics of the falls to the dismay of the shop owner.

We saw a few cascades around Rogersangama and it’d be full of them when rains are in full blast.

Kotmale Dam

Kotmale Dam

Roadside cascades passing Harangala

Roadside cascades passing Harangala

View point

View point

From there

From there

Nice place to relax and have a cuppa tea

Nice place to relax and have a cuppa tea

Landmark where the Gane Ela Falls is

Landmark where the Gane Ela Falls is

All along the road it was Hakuru and Tea

All along the road it was Hakuru and Tea

Here she is, very low water levels

Here she is, very low water levels

Base

Base

Must be nice when in full flow

Must be nice when in full flow

Guess what? This bugger was on the roof of our jeep, wonder how on earth it got there

Guess what? This bugger was on the roof of our Jeep, wonder how on earth it got there

Nearly dried up falls in Rogersangama

Nearly dried up falls in Rogersangama

Very curious but friendly grandpa

Very curious but friendly grandpa

Waterfalls of Wewahena

Unfortunately we couldn’t visit Pusulpitiya Raja Maha Viharaya which is at Hedunuwewa Junction passing Kalapitiya, a major town found on this road. We continued till we reach the bridge across Kotmale Oya which is about 100ft in length. This is where Kotmale Oya joins forces with Pundalu Oya but water levels were considerably very low, especially of Kotmale Oya.

Having stopped to take a few pics, we heard a roar under the bridge and leaning against the railing, I saw this nice little waterfall underneath. It looked as if there had been a falls before but the massive foundation of the bridge had more or less made it less curvy in shape. Now she’s falling after the water collects at the base of the bridge like over a wall.

About 500m from here is another bridge and we stopped once again as this is where the Pundalu Oya crosses the road and further down joins with Kotmale Oya. She had considerably more water and looking towards the river we saw about 100m away a beautiful falls. My heart leaped and we jumped out of the vehicle and took the footpath along the river bank to find yet another waterfall hidden to the people going along the road. A bit upstream were the main section and what a beautiful girl she turned out to be. Water level was good and we spent some time photographing her. Just be careful coz the rocks are very slippery here.

We then took the path that went a bit uphill to come on top of the falls we saw. In fact there were 3 falls falling close to each other. The one closer to the road had very little water, one in the middle was the healthiest and the other side one couldn’t be seen clearly. We could only manage a side view and a pilot view of these falls as there was no way to get to the base.

These were a huge bonus and we’d already spent quite a lot of time with these unknown beauties so hurried up towards Paluwatte Junction where Pundalu Oya – Nuwara Eliya road meets this. Took the left turn and reached Thawalenthenna in no time. All along we could see the massive Gerandi Gini Ella in Thawalanthenna but very little water as she was falling in tiny streaks so decided not to take the estate road to go see her as it was time consuming.

The huge bridge where the 1st falls is found underneath, this is Kotmale Oya

The huge bridge where the 1st falls is found underneath, this is Kotmale Oya

Here she is

Here she is

Had to go some way off the bridge for a clear shot

Had to go some way off the bridge for a clear shot

Closer

Closer

Closest

Closest

Crossing towards Kalapitiya

Crossing towards Kalapitiya

At the next bridge, this is Pundalu Oya

At the next bridge, this is Pundalu Oya

Somewhat healthy water levels

Somewhat healthy water levels

Bottom of the 2nd falls

Bottom of the 2nd falls

Up close

Up close

There is the main section

There is the main section

Wow, very nice

Wow, very nice

Top

Top

Centre

Centre

3rd Falls is there, in fact there were 3 separate cascades

3rd Falls is there, in fact there were 3 separate cascades

First two cascades can be seen from here, no chance of seeing the third though

First two cascades can be seen from here, no chance of seeing the third though

Right at the top

Right at the top

No tents needed

No tents needed

Close up

Close up

This water stream separates into two making two falls

This water stream separates into two making two falls

One we can see

One we can see

Only a side view though

Only a side view though

Bottom

Bottom

Top of the first cascade, less water

Top of the first cascade, less water

Close up

Close up

Here's the bridge

Here’s the bridge

Admiring the view

Admiring the view

Helpful

Helpful

The gloomy sky made many pics less attractive

The gloomy sky made many pics less attractive

Guess these are the houses built for Kotmale Reservoir project

Guess these are the houses built for Kotmale Reservoir project

Devathura Falls

This is yet another beautiful falls just by the road before the Ramboda Tunnel. Water levels were lower than I wanted yet she was still appealing to the naked eye. We climbed along the bank a bit up to get a clear view of her upper part but overgrown trees blocked our view. Below the bridge was her lower part but near impossible to get any closer so had to be content with yet another pilot view.

We took the old road where the rock formation is like a Lion’s Paw. This road, especially towards the other end of the tunnel is used by the Ramboda Falls Hotel to park the visitor vehicles, such as buses. It was hard to believe that people travelled along that tiny road for so many years.

View towards Kotmale

View towards Kotmale

Half-filled reservoir

Half-filled reservoir

Beginning of the tunnel

Beginning of the tunnel

She's here

She’s here

Gosh, where's all the water gone?

Gosh, where’s all the water gone?

Trying hard to get a pic of the top

Trying hard to get a pic of the top

Portrait

Portrait

Goes downhill

Goes downhill

Lion's paw on the old road

Lion’s paw on the old road

Ramboda Oya Centre Falls

How many times have we driven past this in our lives? It’s almost similar to the number of times we went pass Devon and St. Claire by vehicles seeing them all the time but after some time got really fed up of them and we no longer bothered to stop by to enjoy their beauties. Atha was telling how we took the beautiful view of St. Claire for granted for years but now she’s nearly dead, we regret the times we couldn’t bother to stop by and took in that majestic view.

Ramboda Oya is mainly consisted of 3 waterfalls created by the same water stream. Ramboda Oya Centre falls is the easiest to see but very hard to get a clear pic without people in the way. It attracts many travelers, especially for a quick dip but unfortunately many drunkards too. However, we were lucky to have this beauty for ourselves, only for a short time though and I took the opportunity to take all the pics and videos I wanted in that short time.

Kotmale is everywhere

Kotmale is everywhere

Few people already on the top

Few people already on the top

Base pool

Base pool

After ages, a clear pic

After ages, a clear pic

So wide

So wide

Silky smooth

Silky smooth

Going uphill

Going uphill

Healthy water levels

Healthy water levels

Ramboda Oya Upper Falls

She’s so high up; you have to climb parallel to the water stream uphill along the concreted path for about 1-1.5km. The path is nicely done with steps all the way but now badly in need of a repair. You can at places climb down to the river to enjoy tiny cascaded along the way. About halfway up, it started to rain heavily and we fortunately had my umbrella. About 20mins later, rain went away and we continued our climb.

At the top, they’ve built a very nice platform with a roof, an area the size of maybe 15’X15’. This place is ideal for a night stay; all you need is a sleeping bag (well I’m on the hunt for one now coz one of these days, wanna go and spend a night up there with that beauty) and some food. She was so tall and reminded me of Devon, except she didn’t have that curvy shape towards the bottom. What it would be like when this one is in full flow, I kept wondering.

We did a Small Documentary and you can check that too. It started to rain and we were glad of the roof. We could see the Kotmale Reservoir in the distance and Nuwara Eliya main road too with the vehicles parked at the side of the road. It was then time to go searching for their third sister and we climbed down pretty quickly.

Path is nicely done

Path is nicely done

Few of them along the way

Few of them along the way

Old couple

Old couple

Mini cascades along the way

Mini cascades along the way

Wow

Wow

Going was very adventurous

Going was very adventurous

Uphill path is not so much used

Uphill path is not so much used

View from the platform

View from the platform

Yippeeeeeee!!!

Yippeeeeeee!!!

Amazing

Amazing

Right up

Right up

Right down too

Right down too

The road with parked buses

The road with parked buses

Good place to spend a night

Good place to spend a night

Man-made framing

Man-made framing

Begging for water

Begging for water

Sexy, ain't she?

Sexy, ain’t she?

Wild berries?

Wild berries?

Ramboda Oya Lower Falls

Having reached the main road, I was thankful for the break it offered for me to take pics of the center falls without any obstruction as she was now full of people. We drove back to the tunnel and having parked there went and asked the security officer of Ramboda Falls Hotel (RFH) if we could go down and see the falls. I wasn’t expecting a positive answer as this was a big tourist place, especially with foreigners and didn’t hope they’d allow us inside as it might be disturbing their guests.

To my surprise, we got the ok (could be coz it was old man, Tony, who went and asked for permission. The security officer too was close to his age and it would’ve been this factor that got us the chance. There are benefits of having old people around us sometimes) and we went down the road to the hotel which is some way below.

The falls was beginning to see clearly and we came to the hotel and once again ask for permission which was duly granted. You have to walk through the hotel interior and then reach the main dining hall where they were serving lunch for many tourists, mainly foreigners. We again checked with the staff and they asked us to walk through the dining hall (among diners) and I felt very awkward to do this. However everybody was pretty cool about it and didn’t even make the slightest fuss over it.

The lunch was going strong and the aroma of various foods made my mouth salivating (hope none of those diners got stomachache) and out of the dining hall, it was a breath-taking view of the falls. We even could see the Puna Falls at the distance and all around us was lush greenery and towering mountains. They’ve done a nice path up to the falls from here; about 200m and we followed it occasionally stopping to take pics. There were many foreigners coming back after seeing it probably for their lunch and we had this beauty too pretty much for ourselves just like her center and upper sisters.

There even was a rainbow as if to welcome to her and we spent a long time and got back to the jeep after profusely thanking the RFH staff and security. If you happen to go there, do please ask for their permission as they were very helpful in a way. So our heartfelt thanks for them.

Right at the edge is where she falls

Right at the edge is where she falls

View from the road

View from the road

Near the RFH

Near the RFH

Puna Ella in the distance

Puna Ella in the distance

On the way down

On the way down

We are here and had to go downhill through the hotel

We are here and had to go downhill through the hotel

Hi lady!

Hi lady!

Falls in two parts

Falls in two parts

Upper bit

Upper bit

Middle

Middle

Lower, spot the foreigners

Lower, spot the foreigners

Endless greenery

Endless greenery

They're building a platform closer

They’re building a platform closer

Can you see the rainbow?

Can you see the rainbow?

Puna Ella

When picturing her from the A5, we saw that there was a bridge over the top of Puna Falls. It meant that we could go to the top of her and possibly get down to the base (a crazy idea you might think as many have given up that notion). We passed the Kandamulla Falls on the way and just around the corner was the estate road of Rangbodde Estate to your right. Follow this, just bear in mind, there’s a security officer at the entrance and you have to ask him for permission to enter the estate road.

We got the clearance and arrived after 100m or so at a bridge where Pundalu Oya was gushing underneath with a lot of water. It was only the Pundalu Oya that had considerable amount of water. It was such a beautiful view and we followed the road another 100m to see on to our right the top of Puna Ella. Both parts were clearly visible, even though they look to be falling very close to each other; they were considerably away from each other at the top, maybe 100ft or so.

From here, I could see the Devatura Ella, the full length falling from a very high point, RFH and Kandamulla Falls too. It was a rewarding experience and we enjoyed it a lot. There were carrot beds on the slope and the farmer came to see what the heck we were doing there. When I asked if there was a way down the slope to the base, he just laughed at me at first, then seeing I was dumbly serious, he said if we were to follow the estate road some more and there is a place to get to the water stream and then we can come up along it. “However, it’s so difficult” were his paring words.

We arrived back at the gate and thanked the security guard and reached the base of the Kandamulla Falls which is at the road side. There was very little water and we took a few pics and headed towards Pussellawa where our destiny drew closer to Kotmale.

This is from the viewing platform on the main road

This is from the viewing platform on the main road

Close up

Close up

The cables blocking the view

The cables blocking the view

Right at the top, we went nearly to the top

Right at the top, we went nearly to the top

Bottom of the Kandamulla Falls

Bottom of the Kandamulla Falls

Mainly rocks, little water

Mainly rocks, little water

Upper parts of Kandamulla Ella

Upper parts of Kandamulla Ella

Just like others, water levels were very low

Just like others, water levels were very low

Entrance to the Rangbodde Estate (funny pronunciation and spelling)

Entrance to the Rangbodde Estate (funny pronunciation and spelling)

Here's the bridge I told you about

Here’s the bridge I told you about

Pundalu Oya gushing down making the Puna Ella about 100m from here

Pundalu Oya gushing down making the Puna Ella about 100m from here

Only Pundalu Oya had sufficient water levels

Only Pundalu Oya had sufficient water levels

Top of the Puna Ella is down there

Top of the Puna Ella is down there

Estate Road

Estate Road

Here we are

Here we are

You see this part from the road clearly but impossible to get down to the base

You see this part from the road clearly but impossible to get down to the base

Very nice

Very nice

The other falls of the twin originated from Puna Oya

The other falls of the twin originated from Puna Oya

Closer

Closer

RFH

RFH

Full package of Devathura Falls seen from here

Full package of Devathura Falls seen from here

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Another cascade closer to Kandamulla Ella

Another cascade closer to Kandamulla Ella

Kotmale Reservoir & the Dam

We went past Helboda Falls and Delta Falls, both of were nearly dry and didn’t bother getting off and taking pics. We then turned to the Pussellawa-Ulapane Road, just another narrow road but condition was good. This runs past Maswela (Mawela), Kadadora, Kotmale, Naya Pana, Nugawela and Kalugalhinna before reaching Ulapane North. This was yet another scenic road. By taking this we managed to do the full circular route around Kotmale Reservoir (now you know the reason for the name of the trip report) and reached Kadadora where the turn off for Mahaweli Maha Seya is.

Without turning, we went a bit forward to reach the Kotmale Reservoir Viewing Platform. We had to buy tickets and the place has a museum too with various old pics. At the viewing point, we got a panoramic view of the reservoir and could barely notice the viewing platform we had tea on our way in the morning from the Harangala Junction. It was very nice scene but we didn’t spend a lot of time there.

Turning around, we went another 500m or so along the road to the dam where we had to show our tickets. Just remember you have to buy tickets at the viewing point and they are valid for both the viewing point and the dam. You can’t drive along it but can take a nice leisurely walk along it. I was mesmerized by what I saw and amazed by the sheer size of it. It was so long and high but water levels were so far down.

This is a great example of ingenuity of the engineering. The gloomy weather conditions somewhat destroyed what otherwise would have been a sensational view.

If only there was a bit of a clear blue sky, the day would’ve been perfect but we had to be content with what we got. The dam connects the two roads we took today. Even though we wanted to spend more time enjoying, we had to get a move on and bid farewell to this wonderful creation and headed back on the way we came to go see another engineering marvel of modern times, Mahaweli Maha Seya.

Ticket office is right here

Ticket office is right here

Here it is

Here it is

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

Going towards the view point

Going towards the view point

Marvelous view

Marvelous view

Here's the dam

Here’s the dam

Entering the museum

Entering the museum

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

Mockup of the project

Mockup of the project

Inside is full of historical pics

Inside is full of historical pics

Outside, plenty of these

Outside, plenty of these

At the gate to the dam

At the gate to the dam

High security measures

High security measures

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

Walking downhill

Walking downhill

Hiya frentho!

Hiya frentho!

Side view of the dam, millions of blocks of black stone

Side view of the dam, millions of blocks of black stone

That's what the fella says to Tony

That’s what the fella says to Tony

Lone line of lights

Lone line of lights

Closer to sluice gates

Closer to sluice gates

Appeared out of nowhere

Appeared out of nowhere

Guess what, these leaves were scratched trying to embed visitors names and their affairs, typical stupid travelers

Guess what, these leaves were scratched trying to embed visitors names and their affairs, typical stupid travelers

Anything alarming?

Anything alarming?

Time to go

Time to go

Here's the plaque, too small for you to read

Here’s the plaque, too small for you to read

Old & the Handsome

Old & the Handsome

Mahaweli Maha Seya

This is well sign posted and can’t be missed. Take the left road from Kadadora and go uphill about 1.2km to reach this mammoth stupa. Surprisingly after nearly 3 decades, this is still only partially finished due to various reasons. I’m sure money would have been the most pressing issue. There is a legend that said whoever joined these two hills would die soon. As a result, they had to build something in this caliber to try and avoid it. Whether it was true or not, chief organizer of the express Mahaweli project, Late. Gamini Dissanayake died within 10 years of the project commencement.

Resembling Kalutara Chaithya, this too has a smaller stupa inside the main structure. It started raining as soon as we reached here but soon it went off giving some precious light to take pics inside. It was in a way, very strange how the echo is inside. Even if you whisper quietly, it’ll multiply by many times and everyone can hear as if you spoke into a microphone. There were four Buddha statues placed around the smaller stupa that were milky white. Looking at the serene looking Buddha was so peaceful. It’s always like this when you look at a Buddha statue. You could forget everything else and just keep looking at this statue that spreads compassion to everyone.

There was a shop near the stupa and we had some tea as lunch was deliberately skipped over traveling. We then got the directions to Dehadu Kadulla and went back the way we came.

Video of Mahaweli Maha Seya.

image305

Mighty one

Mighty one

Plenty of work to do yet

Plenty of work to do yet

See the steps to the side?

See the steps to the side?

Kotha

Kotha

Zoomed all the way

Zoomed all the way

It was nearly muddy

It was nearly muddy

The tiny stupa inside, similar to Kalutara

The tiny stupa inside, similar to Kalutara

On the steps

On the steps

Not an ancient one

Not an ancient one

Very peaceful inside

Very peaceful inside

Serene looking Buddha

Serene looking Buddha

Top of the inner stupa

Top of the inner stupa

Here's the roof

Here’s the roof

Close up

Close up

Dehadu Kadulla

This is on the same road but very much closer to the main road. As soon as you turn to Mahaweli Maha Seya road, you can see this about 20m away to the right.

According to the sign, this was one of the entrances to Maya Country from Ruhunu Country (guess you can remember Ruhunu, Pihiti & Maya). It further states that King Dutugemunu hid his royal sword at this place. I hope modern so-called kings haven’t or won’t destroy places like these searching for those swords as it’s been a maniac recently. Even the National Museum wasn’t spared in the process and even today we haven’t been able to recover what was robbed. It was the one those incidents that proved super humans are really existing.

After that, while the darkness was enveloping the surrounding, we decided to go looking for what is believed to be the second longest suspension bridge in Sri Lanka after the Ruwanwella Bridge.

Video of Dehadu Kadulla

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

It was very close to the main road

It was very close to the main road

The steps that had been built from the entrance, now preserved

The steps that had been built from the entrance, now preserved

Getting in

Getting in

Here we are, very narrow, guess it's because of security

Here we are, very narrow, guess it’s because of security

From the other side

From the other side

Pilot view

Pilot view

Nugawela Suspension Bridge

This is visible from the main road about 1.5-2km from Kadadora along Ulapane road near Kotmale Holiday Resort and International Training Centre. This looked dilapidated and looking closely over it really was the case.

The wooden planks used for the bridge were badly in need of replacement. Some of them had simply fallen off and most others were at the brink of breaking to pieces. We even saw the villagers have put up a tire on a cable not far off to cross the river. It was so dangerous.

I hope whoever responsible will see to this and do the necessary things to make sure this bridge is usable safely. Moreover, it’s a hallmark of the country as very few suspension bridges are available in Sri Lanka nowadays.

Close to Kotmale Holiday Resort

Close to Kotmale Holiday Resort

Dilapidated

Dilapidated

Tony, with shaky legs, leads the way

Tony, with shaky legs, leads the way

Very risky

Very risky

Oh yeah, his face says it all

Oh yeah, his face says it all

Another risky option of crossing the river

Another risky option of crossing the river

Signs of an old crossing

Signs of an old crossing

Very old iron bridge at Kalugalhinna

Very old iron bridge at Kalugalhinna

Panoramas of the Journey

Enjoy these panoramic views too.

Pano of Ramboda Oya Centre Falls

Pano of Ramboda Oya Centre Falls

Ramboda Oya Upper Falls in a Pano

Ramboda Oya Upper Falls in a Pano

View from Ramboda Oya Upper Falls

View from Ramboda Oya Upper Falls

There are two side-by-side falls here

There are two side-by-side falls here

Kotmale Reservoir from the viewing platform

Kotmale Reservoir from the viewing platform

From the dam itself

From the dam itself

Long dam in a Pano

Long dam in a Pano

Well, folks, it’s been a fruitful journey in many ways. I gotta see many things I had been dreaming for ages plus there were surprise bonuses as well along the way. Mahaweli Maha Seya and Kotmale Reservoir are very appealing so wouldn’t mind seeing them again.

I don’t have to say that for the waterfalls I guess as I’m one of keenest fans of them and won’t miss a chance to see them. It was good to be with the oldies again and Tony used up his quota of traveling for July with this trip. It’ll have to be in August when he can join us again providing he gets the approval from the top.

Thanks everyone taking the time to read through and I’m praying there would be some more opportunities to do a couple more Tour de Waterfalls in the foreseeable future.

Will see you guys with the next report (no idea whatsoever what it is gonna be about) and till then this is Sri signing off.

Take care and keep traveling.

Cheers

Sri…

Project Kohonawala – Donation of Wheelchair…

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Year and Month 22-23 Aug, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew Ana, Athula and Me (on the second day, two other friends of Ana)
Accommodation New Rest House, Haputale (057-2268099)
Transport By SUV
Activities Wheelchair Delivery, Photography, Scenic Drive, etc…
Weather Misty, Windy and Gloomy with Occasional Showers…
Route Koswatte->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Badulla->Kahataruppa->Urumeethenna->Kohonawala and back to Haputale.Haputale->Dambethenna->Lipton’s Seat->Back to Haputale->Balangoda->Bagawanthalawa->Dick Oya->Hatton->Avissawella->Koswatte.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can check my previous encounters of Khonawala here and the Journey to Viyangala here.
  • The contact number of Kohonawala Temple is 055-5653138.
  • This was not meant to be a trip but just a visit delivering the wheelchair to the boy I’d mentioned in my first visit.
  • The path from Kahataruppa up to Urumeethenna (about 2-3km) is concreted in parts but will be tough for a low clearance vehicle.
  • From Urumeethenna to Loggal Oya (another 2-3km) is in terrible condition, only a 4-Wheel Drive can make it, especially the return journey uphill. Of course there are tuk-tuks that do this nonetheless.
  • They’ve now built a rudimentary crossing across the Loggal Oya using sand bags as the water levels were low and there are Lorries carrying electric poles to supply the village with electricity. You might be able to go right up to the temple in a 4WD depending on the water levels.
  • Haputale New Rest House is located about 500m from the town and can be booked by calling their Ratnapura Office, 045-2222299. (A family room is Rs. 3,500/- and they have hot water and Wi-Fi as well).
  • Road to Lipton’s Seat, about 16km from Haputale is now fully renovated and can easily be done in any vehicle.
  • There are people who worked really hard to get this project done (I’ll mention the details in the report) and must thank them for all the hard work put into make this successful.
  • Check the Videos of Project Kohonawala here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After my initial visit to Kohonawala on 08-09 March 2014, NG initiated this project of funding a wheelchair to a boy who was handicapped in the village. While organizing that, she carried out a much needed Eye Clinic to the people of Kohonawala and even Urumeethenna with the help of Doctor Asela and Vision 20/20 Team. The Ministry of Health – Vison 20/20 Project  provided all the material and expertise. The villagers provided the food and accommodation for the team. Due to the nature of the deformation of the boy, a regular wheelchair couldn’t be used resulting NG to find out a place to build a custom-made one for him.

The actual cost was enormous but she managed to get it down after a lot of bargaining, yet it still was a large sum. Thanks to a key Lakdasun Member (who likes to remain anonymous), Arjuna, Ana, and his friends (who like to remain anonymous too) we managed to raise the required amount within a very short period.

So thanks to them all, the fee was paid and the wheelchair was ready to be taken but how we were to take it from Colombo all the way to Kohonawala was the million dollar question. As it was custom built so that it could handle the rugged and uneven terrain of Kohonawala, the wheelchair was, compared to an ordinary one, larger and heavier making it impossible to transport by bus. We didn’t wanna send it by train either in case it got damaged in the process as there were many cables and handles that might not survive a train journey amid many other goods to Badulla. Dismantling it was out of the question as we had no technical knowledge about many screws and bolts attached to it so had to take the full packaged assembled as it was.

Again it was Ana who came to our rescue offering his SUV to take the wheelchair to Kohonawala. So we set the dates for 22-23 Aug but due to the busy schedule NG was unable to join us but Athula and I joined Ana for the Journey. Ana had gone and picked up the wheelchair from the manufacturer at Borella in advance which took the whole back space of the vehicle and we left around 3.00am on 22 August while the rains were hitting us from all around.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Wheelchair Donation at Kohonawala.
  2. Lipton’s Seat, Dambethenna.
  3. Scenic Drive along Balangoda-Bogawanthalawa Road.

Day 01

The journey was so tough and tricky due to the heavy showers falling all the way up to Pelmadulla. We were considerably slowed down but thankfully after Beragala, the rains eased somewhat helping us catch up lost ground till we reached Bindunuwewa for a much needed cup of tea having finished a container of egg and tomato sandwiches on the way saving time having to stop for breakfast. We called the temple and informed Rev. Medananda Thero of our arrival and he promised to send some villagers to Loggal Oya help us carry the wheelchair.

We reached Kahataruppa passing Badulla around 8.30am and started the arduous journey downhill towards Urumeethenna. Heavy showers had eroded the road in many places making it so hard to maneuver. Having driven non-stop from 3.00am, Ana kept battling this unforgiving terrain till we reached Urumeethenna around 9.00am to find the road from there to Loggal Oya in an even worse condition. The road is now being excessively used by the Lorries that had carried the transformer (now installed in the village) and now transport electric poles in addition to the sand lorry.

The washed out road was dangerously slippery due to the rain and there were streams flowing across the road too in addition to hundreds of different sizes of rocks scattered all about. It took us a long time to arrive at Loggal Oya, some driving from Ana as well about 9.45am. There were a couple of boys who had come to take the wheelchair and the kids of the village along with the two little monks too awaited our arrival.

The water levels were not so high still tricky crossing over so we decided to walk the rest of the journey as we didn’t wanna chance a flash flood of Loggal Oya stranding us inside the village with the vehicle. NG had sent some books and DVDs (provided by one of her friends Mahil) to be handed to the school as well and we delivered them to Principal’s house through one of the boys but couldn’t contact him at the time. However on our return to Colombo I managed to get through to him and get the confirmation that he’d received them.

Crossing the Loggal Oya was not so tough as they had built a crossing with sand bags so that Lorries could easily reach the village with the transformer and the electric poles. It’s roughly about 2-2.5km hike to the temple which took about more than an hour. We arrived at the temple around 11.00am for a sumptuous meal of Manioc, Kurahan Thalapa with authentic Lunu Miris and Kollu Curry. Everyone was fascinated by the sight of this strange machine, especially the kids.

We chatted for some time but the large black clouds were looming from Madolsima but we went for a bath in the now alive water streams after the rains. Back at temple, we visited the partially completed Kohonawala Temple, hoping to help them build it as well in some way (more about it later). The boy and his family (Father, Mother and the Sister) came to the temple so that we could hand them the chair officially. However the monk was planning to do some Bodhi Pooja before handing them it. I’m sure it’d’ve happened long before you get to read this report and the boy is now enjoying his new ride.

Athula and Ana help them familiarize with the machine while doing some minor adjustments to it so that it fit him nicely. The monk did an introduction and handed the wheelchair and we got him to go for a ride in the temple garden with his family who were delighted at this as it’ll help them keep the boy nice and safe while they get on with their lives. It was a very touching moment to see the boy propped up on the chair and his parents standing by his side. His mother’s face said the whole story and it was a feeling that I can’t put into words, something closer to “Immense Relief”, I guess. It’s been a wonderful thing to see people like these who are really in need of things get them thanks to projects like these. I felt so proud of ourselves and hopefully we’ll be able to carry out more in future, especially environmental conservation and educating our next generation.

After they’d left we sat down for a hearty lunch of Thibbatu with Dried Fish, Polos Curry and Passion Fruit Leaves Mallung with rice. With about to be burst bellies hanging off us, we left Kohonawala bidding our farewell to everyone. Ana raced to the Loggal Oya beating everyone else and we were soon battling it out uphill. Thanks to his skillful driving, we got back on solid ground heaving a sigh of relief and headed towards Haputale.

It was so misty that we could’ve sliced it into blocks and sold instead of ice cubes. It was bone chilling by the time we got out at the rest house and Ana’s friends were already waiting for us wrapped up in thick coats. After a long hot bath, we sat down for dinner and went to bed hoping for an early morning the following day. The winds were so strong and kept hammering at our windows trying to breakthrough. I was in fact very worried that they’d succeed.

The view along Kahataruppa road

The view along Kahataruppa road

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Loggal Oya, with some water after the rains

Loggal Oya, with some water after the rains

Ready to cross

Ready to cross

Sand bags made it easy

Sand bags made it easy

Going uphill

Going uphill

Piled along the road for firewood

Piled along the road for firewood

Ana, leading the way

Ana, leading the way

Full of them

Full of them

Just look at them

Just look at them

Taking a break

Taking a break

Busy at work

Busy at work

Like a giant flower

Like a giant flower

Up close

Up close

Closing on the first house met on the way

Closing on the first house met on the way

Here's where the transformer is erected

Here’s where the transformer is erected

Can you see the charred Viyangala? Galulla village is to the right of her

Can you see the charred Viyangala? Galulla village is to the right of her

Hope it'll start functioning soon

Hope it’ll start functioning soon

Ana taking a break and we were served some tea by the house owners

Ana taking a break and we were served some tea by the house owners

Munching the peanuts we gave them

Munching the peanuts we gave them

All the necessary items ready at hand

All the necessary items ready at hand

Ana wearing a GoPro Camera. Unfortunately the battery was dead before we started recording the journey

Ana wearing a GoPro Camera. Unfortunately the battery was dead before we started recording the journey

Juicy guava plucked by Vajira

Juicy guava plucked by Vajira

The dried up stream is now alive, we had a bath upstream

The dried up stream is now alive, we had a bath upstream

Here's the wheelchair

Here’s the wheelchair

Looks robust

Looks robust

Atha doing some adjustments, even Janthu the dog is wondering what this new beast is

Atha doing some adjustments, even Janthu the dog is wondering what this new beast is

Freshly dug

Freshly dug

Ready for the Polos Curry

Ready for the Polos Curry

Here's the complete breakfast

Here’s the complete breakfast

Getting the Thibbatu ready for lunch

Getting the Thibbatu ready for lunch

Lakmali with a beautiful smile

Lakmali with a beautiful smile

Ready to cook

Ready to cook

Viyangala through the trees

Viyangala through the trees

Atha testing the chair with Vajira on it

Atha testing the chair with Vajira on it

Ana helping with the adjustments with the boy on it

Ana helping with the adjustments with the boy on it

More adjustments needed

More adjustments needed

Atha and Suddha both at work

Atha and Suddha both at work

His sister and mother waiting anxiously

His sister and mother waiting anxiously

Sister is a bit weary over all these adjustments

Sister is a bit weary over all these adjustments

Here he is

Here he is

On his new toy

On his new toy

Atha trying to show them how it's moved about

Atha trying to show them how it’s moved about

The family with Medhananda Thero.

The family with Medhananda Thero.

All the kids too wanted to pose with him

All the kids too wanted to pose with him

Ana and Atha too

Ana and Atha too

The family

The family

Rev. Medhananda Thero.

Rev. Medhananda Thero.

They took him for a ride out in the garden

They took him for a ride out in the garden

Getting accustomed to it

Getting accustomed to it

Father is pushing him around

Father is pushing him around

Still some adjustments done by Atha

Still some adjustments done by Atha

Finally they went back home, as there will be a Bodhi Pooja with the handing over later in the week

Finally they went back home, as there will be a Bodhi Pooja with the handing over later in the week

In the meantime, our Thibbau Curry was being nicely cooked

In the meantime, our Thibbau Curry was being nicely cooked

On our way Viyangala is partially hidden by the mist. She must've felt naked without those Mana bushes covering her

On our way Viyangala is partially hidden by the mist. She must’ve felt naked without those Mana bushes covering her

Suddha follwing us to the river

Suddha follwing us to the river

Crossing over to safety

Crossing over to safety

Flowing over sand bags

Flowing over sand bags

The hero of the journey, Toyota Hilux

The hero of the journey, Toyota Hilux

Day 02

We got up to a chilly morning covered in a thick layer of mist and soon got ready to leave for Lipton’s Seat, a remarkable viewing point popular worldwide. Unfortunately, there are quite a lot of people in SL that haven’t even heard about this. This is rumored to be one of the best in the whole world and one could see practically all four corners of SL on a clear day with the aid of a powerful binocular. Night mail was laboring along towards Bandarawela with 2 M6 engines and 12 carriages. The mountains towards Diyathalawa were covered in mist and we soon left for Lipton’s Seat.

The road runs uphill from Haputale Town itself along Dambethenna Tea Estate. There are buses running now from B’Wela to Dambethenna (Haputale-Dambethenna is about 9.5km) but from Dambethenna to Lipton’s Seat is another 5-6km which you can walk but not on a windy, misty and cold morning like the one we went. Driving up through lush greenery was simply awesome while the sun was battling it out with the thick layer of cloud to appear. To our right was the Walawe Basin that runs past Udawalawa, Thanamalwila and all the way to the south coast.

Passing the Dambathenna Tea Factory we met up with the mist obscuring the path. However the road is now very well tarred and maintained making it easier for any vehicle to go right up to the viewing point. Last 2-3km was like driving through a milky sea. All around us was the misty trying to envelope us as if protecting us from some evil eyes. We reached the viewing point around 7.30am, but it looked like late winter evening. There was very little light due to both mist and cloud cover. Strong winds were coming from the tea estates below trying to send us flying back to Haputale. We didn’t have to buy the tickets that are Rs. 50/- each as there was no one to sell them due to the harsh weather.

Most of the time we had to remain half bend in order to fend off the winds. The dew drops that came at us with the winds tried to squeeze their way into our cameras making it so hard to take a pic. Getting up to the refurbished concrete viewing platform (it used to be built on wood and felt shaky last I went couple of year ago) was a huge challenge. We all hug the railing as tight as we could and slowly crept up to the top. It was so fierce and cold up there and we soon got down and ran to the safety of our vehicle. I was so scared we’d be thrown off the road by these never ending winds.

Coming back we met a few boys and girls running up coming from Dambethenna side towards Lipton’s Seat dressed only in their running gear. How on earth they bore that bone-chilling cold is still a mystery to me despite their bodies were heated up after all those running. The basin below us looked breath taking and we took a few breaks to appreciate the view. Then we reached Beragala in search of some breakfast before driving to Balangoda for yet another unforgettable scenic drive.

Good morning misty Haputale!

Good morning misty Haputale!

Tinge of blue in the distant

Tinge of blue in the distant

Ooops!

Ooops!

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

New Rest House, Haputale

New Rest House, Haputale

Finally came the morning light

Finally came the morning light

Just at Lipton's Seat, you can note the rocks to the left of the picture that have been brought for renovation

Just at Lipton’s Seat, you can note the rocks to the left of the picture that have been brought for renovation

Newly painted too

Newly painted too

Here's the story

Here’s the story

Welcome all

Welcome all

Mist and the Winds were the theme of the day

Mist and the Winds were the theme of the day

Looking at the mist hoping for a breakthrough

Looking at the mist hoping for a breakthrough

The nicely built viewing platform

The nicely built viewing platform

Pic taken from it, note the trees bending in the strong winds

Pic taken from it, note the trees bending in the strong winds

Took a whale lot of effort to take this pic

Took a whale lot of effort to take this pic

Hairpin bends

Hairpin bends

Towards Walawe Basin

Towards Walawe Basin

Can you see the road?

Can you see the road?

Close up

Close up

GoPro camera was without a battery and we tried to improvise but to no avail

GoPro camera was without a battery and we tried to improvise but to no avail

A bungalow with a grandeur view

A bungalow with a grandeur view

Walawe Basin, Samanala Wewa, Udawalawa and others are there

Walawe Basin, Samanala Wewa, Udawalawa and others are there

Balangoda-Bogawanthalawa-Hatton Road.

We turned off just before Balangoda towards Bogawanthalawa. I’d heard many things about this road and almost all of who’d travelled claimed this to be one of the best scenic roads in SL and I was itching to go see this when I got this chance out of nowhere. The first few km were just driving through villages up to Pinnawala (don’t get confused with the one along Kandy Road). However, from Pinnawala started the journey through Peak Wilderness.

The road was shady and the Tea Estate had maintained either side really well planting trees. The views stretched miles into the infinity with plenty of hills and greenery. On the way we came across a pair of black eagles, probably trying to mate but they kept moving about making it so difficult to take a pic. There was a viewing platform built somewhere in the middle giving us a very picturesque view of the valley below. Arriving at Campion Estate we were met by the Keselgamu Oya to our right and she kept up with us all the way thereafter.

Passing Bogawanthalawa (the town was a great shame to all the scenery before and after as it was one of the dirtiest and ugliest I’ve ever seen) and Norwood we reached Castlereigh Reservoir where Keselgamu Oya disappeared into. The water levels were not so great but the view through tea bushes was lustrous and we enjoyed some creamy Highland Ice Cream at a nearby shop. From there passing Dick Oya we reached at Hatton and settled down for a long journey till we reach Kitulgala amid heavy rains for a delightful lunch.

Twin peaks

Twin peaks

Artistic sky

Artistic sky

Waiting for a pic

Waiting for a pic

Rest of the team, either side are Ana's friends, Chanaka and Nera

Rest of the team, either side are Ana’s friends, Chanaka and Nera

Unbelievingly beautiful

Unbelievingly beautiful

No words

No words

It was a drive worth every second

It was a drive worth every second

Well maintained by the estate

Well maintained by the estate

Famous tree

Famous tree

Reminds me of an Elephant

Reminds me of an Elephant

Twin Dolphins?

Twin Dolphins?

Back leg of a Lion?

Back leg of a Lion?

Now the elephant is more prominent

Now the elephant is more prominent

Through heaven

Through heaven

Viewing point

Viewing point

It kept rotating in the winds

It kept rotating in the winds

Just look at the view

Just look at the view

Icing on the mountain

Icing on the mountain

Wooded path

Wooded path

More greenery

More greenery

Ana mesmerized by the view

Ana mesmerized by the view

I'm in heaven baby!

I’m in heaven baby!

Busy at work

Busy at work

Steep slope towards the tea estate

Steep slope towards the tea estate

More to go

More to go

Bamboo

Bamboo

Castlereigh, to the left is the Ceybank Holiday Bungalow

Castlereigh, to the left is the Ceybank Holiday Bungalow

Looking amazing

Looking amazing

We got back to Colombo around 5.30pm after a very worthwhile journey and felt so happy of what we’d achieved.

Let me thank once again to everyone (Especially NG, Ana, Athula, and all the other friends and relatives) who chipped in to finish this in a very successful manner. It was glad to see the smile of those parents who will now be able to look after their boy with ease. I must also thank the Chief Monk of Kohonawala Temple, Rev. Dhammananda Thero for his dedication to the village. In fact he was the one who introduced this boy to us that resulted in him getting this wheelchair.

I’m in the process of finding a donor who can contribute to the education of those two little monks (Rev. Chandrananda and Rev. Deepananda, they climbed Viyangala with me) monthly. It’ll help them continue their studies at the Pirivena in Padukka, especially with the stationary and other things. The chief monk said that other two monks (there are four altogether) are being sponsored by the University of Arts and Drama and was wondering if he could find someone to do the same for these two.

If you too need to do something for this village, you could do so by contacting the monk and even donating some books and educational things to the Kohonawala School. Here’s the account number of Kohonawala Temple, Olaboduwe Dhammananda Thero, 116-2-001-4-0063593, People’s Bank, Madolsima should you wanna do any contribution.

Well, folks it’s been a pleasure bringing this series of events across to you. I hope there will be many good things to report from Kohonawala in the future. They are now about to receive electricity and I hope it’s not just another election trick (Chanda Gunduwa). I also hope they’ll get a bridge across Loggal Oya connecting them with the mainland and the road to the village be improved making their lives easy.

Ever since Ana and Wije with the help of many others pulled off a miracle to re-start the much needed Hydro Power Plant in Meemure, I realized we can do greater things as a community. There are hundreds of Lakdasun members engaged in many different areas making it easy to do various things if we get together. I heard that the Lakdasun members have done things similar to this in the past too and hope we can take the trend to the future.

A big thank-you must also go for Mithila and founding members of Lakdasun bringing us altogether in this wonderful community enabling us to pull off tasks like these. I’ll leave you with that hoping to bring much more in the upcoming months.

Take care and keep exploring!

Sri…

P.S. There had been a wildfire at Viyangala about couple of days before we went burning through the Mana bushes spread across the whole mountain. It looked blackened and charred after this wildfire and according to the villagers it had burnt nearly one and half days in a row. She now looked bare, with rocky surface is clearly visible. Hopefully, the rains turn her back into the lush greenery self soon.

More News:

After our visit with Ana, on the request of the chief monk, we’ve decided to help him build the Image House (Dhathu Mandiraya) by providing funds to buy Metal and Cement as they were the main shortcomings at present.

Ana, Prasanna and his family and Athula have already sent the money to the monk to buy them and start the construction soon. I’ll update you with the details as and when I hear about them.

Some more good news as one gentleman from Colombo has promised to donate the tiles for the image house, of course after reading our reports. Another group of people have promised to buy the clothes for the adults and kids to observe Sil and attend the Sunday school, again as a result of our reports.

It looks as if there’s a plenty of good things forthcoming for Kohonawala and her occupants as a result of our journey and reports. It makes me feel so proud of our achievements. We’ve shown that we not only visit these rural areas but whenever possible try to help them with whatever way possible. Even our reports seem to be doing a lot of good, a silent service like SL Navy.

Let’s keep the fingers crossed and hope for the best.


Searching our heritage in Dumbara valley

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Year and Month 2014 September 05th and 06th
Number of Days 02
Crew 02 Uddika and Myself
Accommodation Theldeniya Guest House 081-234916
Transport
  • By train
  • By motor bike
Activities Archeology, Photography and Just traveling
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Hasalaka (හසලක) -> Minipe(මිනිපේ) -> Rantambe (රන්ටැබේ) -> Randenigala (රන්දෙනිගල) -> Kandy -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Road condition is excellent along A26 road (Kandy to Mahiyangana). But some by roads conditions are bad. Mahaweli Raja Mawatha is under renovation at some places.
  • When you visit at old temples, first meet chief priest or a priest and explain your purpose of visit. Nowadays attitudes are so different and always think as treasurer hunters.
  • Victoria dam observation point is opened from 8.00am to 4.00pm for visitors and no need permission. To visit Rantambe and Randenigala dams and power station, you need prior permission or contact. I got it via one of my friends working at CEB. Wild elephants are roaming along this road. Therefore be careful in late evening.
  • Intercity train from Colombo to Kandy doesn’t have a luggage compartment. Therefore we sent the bike via previous day night mail.
  • The road condition to Bombure and Wewathanna is terrible

**Special thanks** Mr. Asanka and Mr.Nuwana-Engineers in CEB.

Related Resources Sirilaka Asi Dutu Than” by Mr.S.P.S.Perera.
Author
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Dumbara valley is rich in ancient places and surrounded by beautiful mountains and forests-Knuckles and Victoria-Randenigala-Rantambe sanctuary. This beauty was disturbed to some extent four decades ago after building great reservoirs.
Our target of this trip was to visit at important places when we travel from Kandy to Mahiyangana via A26 and coming back along Mahaweli Raja Mawatha (මහවැලි රජ මාවත).
We selected a motor bike as our transport mode. We sent the bike from Pettah to Kandy by train and collected it from Kandy. We were able to visit at following places in our visit for two days.

Day 01

  1. Lewalle Gangarama RMV (ලේවැල්ලේ ගoගාරාම විහාරය)
  2. Degaldoruwa RMV (දෙගල්දොරුව විහාරය)
  3. Galmaduwa Temple (ගල්මඩුව විහාරය)
  4. Kundasale (කුණ්ඩසාලේ) archeology site.
  5. Bambaragala (බඹරගල) temple and climbing to Bambaragala-view point
  6. Victoria dam
  7. Bombure monument (බෝමුරේ ස්මාරකය)

Day 02

  1. Godamunne (ගොඩමුණ්නේ) ancient Buddha statue
  2. Wewathanna (වැවතැන්න) view point.
  3. Kewulgama (කෙවුල්ගම) Gal Len Temple
  4. Kowilmada-? (කොවිල්මඩ) Center of Sri Lanka
  5. Pallepitawala (පල්ලේපිටවල) Ambalama
  6. Gurulupotha (ගුරුලුපොත) archeology site
  7. Rantambe Dam and reservoir
  8. Randenigala Dam and reservoir
  9. Keerthi Bandarapura (කීර්ති බණ්ඩාරපුර) ancient dewalaya.
Starting point is shown by yellow star at Kandy. Yellow arrows show the route we went. Approximate places of visited sites are shown by numbers.

Starting point is shown by yellow star at Kandy. Yellow arrows show the route we went. Approximate places of visited sites are shown by numbers.

Lewalle Gangarama RMV

We turned from Boowelikada (බූ වැලිකඩ) junction to Lewella and visited at this ancient temple. It has a standing Buddha statue, image house with old paintings, Magul Maduwa (මගුල් මඩුව) and stone inscription to see.

This temple was built by King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha කීර්ති ශ්‍රී රාජසිoහ රජතුමා (1747 – 1781). The temple is named “Gangarama” due to its location near the great Mahaweli River in Lewella. Gangarama was earlier associated with the educational activities of Welivita Sri Saranankara Thero (වැලිවිට සරණoකර හිමි).

Image house of Gangarama RMV. Standing Buddha statue of 27feet height is inside this. No photographs allowed inside

Image house of Gangarama RMV. Standing Buddha statue of 27feet height is inside this. No photographs allowed inside

Entrance of Image house

Entrance of Image house

Moonstone of Kandyan Era

Moonstone of Kandyan Era

Magul Maduwa

Magul Maduwa

Stone inscription tells the story of temple

Stone inscription tells the story of temple

Then we continued along the same road and got direction to Degaldoruwa RMV. (Clarify the way from villagers).

Degaldoruwa RMV

Degaldoruwa RMV has an image house with old paintings and seven Buddha statues. Ancient chapter house is under renovation. Ancient Paththini Dewalaya (පත්තිනි දේවාලය) is situated few meters away from main temple.

Degaldoruwa RMV was built by King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha (1747-1780) and later completed by his brother King Rajadhi Rajasingha (රාජාධි රාජසිoහ රජතුමා) after king’s death. After the work has been finished temple was handed over to his teacher Moratota Hamuduruwo (මොරතොට හාමුදුරුවෝ). Four painters participated in painting this image house. Out of them called Dewaragampola Silvatannee Unnanse (දෙවරගම්පොල සිලවතැන්නේ උන්නාන්සේ) was the famous. Four Jathaka stories and events of Buddha’s life were painted as continuous story at image house.

Degaldoruwa image house

Degaldoruwa image house

Makara Thorana (මකර තොරණ)

Makara Thorana (මකර තොරණ)

Moonstone-again shows Kandyan tradition

Moonstone-again shows Kandyan tradition

Story of Degaldoruwa

Story of Degaldoruwa – Click Image to Enlarge

Ancient door

Ancient door

Degaldoruwa paintings.

Degaldoruwa paintings.

Buddha statue at Degaldoruwa

Buddha statue at Degaldoruwa

Chapter house (පොහොය ගෙය) under renovation

Chapter house (පොහොය ගෙය) under renovation

Sacred foot print

Sacred foot print

Before Buddha Puja

Before Buddha Puja

Story of Dewalaya is interesting. Before king built the temple Dewalaya was situated on top of temple rock. As it is not good to have a Dewalaya above the temple, King wanted to shift it somewhere else. He has thrown his ring from top of the rock and decided to build the Dewalaya where ring has been found. So this is the place.

Story of Dewalaya is interesting. Before king built the temple Dewalaya was situated on top of temple rock. As it is not good to have a Dewalaya above the temple, King wanted to shift it somewhere else. He has thrown his ring from top of the rock and decided to build the Dewalaya where ring has been found. So this is the place.

Then we made our way to Galmaduwa temple which is situated nearby.

Galmaduwa Temple.

This is one of the beautiful archeology buildings I have visited. It is in good condition after preservation.

Galmaduwa temple was also built by King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha. While on building he was heard of finding of Degaldoruwa cave and it shifted his attention to build that temple. As a result this temple kept unfinished state. Influence of Hindu architecture on temple is seen here.

Galmaduwa Temple

Galmaduwa Temple

There is a central building surrounded by outer wall made by brick and stone

There is a central building surrounded by outer wall made by brick and stone

Central building structure

Central building structure

Door of the temple

Door of the temple

We continued our way forward and joined with A26 road at Kundasale town. When we were passing the town noticed a board to Kundasale archeology site in left hand side.

Kundasale archeology site

Nowadays only archeology land is there. It is considered as the place of Kundasale palace. We travelled about 1km from main road to reach there.

Information about the place

Information about the place – Click Image to Enlarge

Only archeological evidence at site

Only archeological evidence at site

Then we travelled up to Digana town and got right turn to Bambaragala ancient temple which is situated 6km from Digana (දිගන) town.

Bambaragala temple and Bambaragala Rock (681m)

Bambaragala temple is situated at the base of Bambaragala and there are scattered caves (about 60) in this area. There is a foot pathway to top of Bambaragala, where you can have a nice view towards Victoria reservoir. It takes about 45minutes to reach the peak. But we were not able to visit at Indrasala (ඉන්ද්‍රසාල ගුහාව) cave.

Bambaragala temple was built by King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha period and surrounding land was gifted to temple by the king. Indrasala cave is an important place where pre historic letters can be seen.

Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Towards the temple

Towards the temple

Brahami inscription above image house

Brahami inscription above image house

Paintings of Kandyan era and four Buddha statues within image house

Paintings of Kandyan era and four Buddha statues within image house

Small pagoda

Small pagoda

Directions to other places

Directions to other places

One of the caves we met where paintings on it’s ceiling

One of the caves we met where paintings on it’s ceiling

Paintings

Paintings

Reaching top of Bambaragala Rock

Reaching top of Bambaragala Rock

Bambaragala Peak

Bambaragala Peak

View of Victoria reservoir

View of Victoria reservoir

Part of Victoria dam is seen to Bambaragala Top

Part of Victoria dam is seen to Bambaragala Top

After visiting at Bambaragala temple we came back to Diagana town and had our late lunch. Then proceeded up to Moragahamula (මොරගහමුල) junction where we got right turn to reach Victoria dam observation point.

Victoria Reservoir and dam.

There is 8km from Moragahamula junction to Victoria dam observation point. This road goes inside Vitoria-Randenigala-Rantambe sanctuary (VRR) and along the bank of reservoir.

Victoria reservoir was built under Mahaweli project and has catchment area of 1869km2. It’s tunnel is 5.4km long with it’s production capacity of electricity is 210MW. It was built with financial aid of United Kingdom.

Victoria dam is an arch dam which has eight spillways and the tallest dam (122m) in Sri Lanka. Dam gates need power only to close them.

At the edge of Victoria reservoir

At the edge of Victoria reservoir

Victoria Dam, reservoir and eight spillways.

Victoria Dam, reservoir and eight spillways.

Eight spillways

Eight spillways

Construction information

Construction information – Click Image to Enlarge

Our next place of visit was Bombure monument where last king of Sri Lanka-Sri Wickrama Rajasingha (ශ්‍රී වික්‍රම රාජසිoහ රජතුමා) was captured by British.

We passed Moragahamula junction and further drove towards Hunnasgiriya (හුන්නස්ගිරිය). At Bombure with a bend there was a gravel road in right hand side. Soon after this road divides into two. Right one is to Bombure Monument and left one is to another good view point called Wewathanna.

Bombure Monument

To reach Bombure monument, you have to go down along the road till road finishes. Then take right hand side foot pathways down along the edge of paddy fields. This foot pathway divides into two and left branch will bring you to Bombure monument.

King Sri Wickrama Rajasingha, his two wives and mother were captured by British troops here at 18th February 1815. This stone pillar was established by British government in 1900. The Siyambala tree (සියඹලා ගහ) found near this was there even they capture the king.

Bombure Monument

Bombure Monument

What it says

What it says

Rainbow over Bombure....

Rainbow over Bombure….

We came back to Theldeniya town to get our accommodation at Theldeniya Guest House. Theldeniya Guest House is situated at bank of Victoria reservoir opposite to Bambaragala. Piduruthalagala range was viewed far away and in a clear day towers on Piduruthalagala can be seen. It is a nice place to stay.

Early morning view of Victoria reservoir from Theldeniya Guest House

Early morning view of Victoria reservoir from Theldeniya Guest House

Bambaragala and temple at it's base

Bambaragala and temple at it’s base

Theldeniya Guest House

Theldeniya Guest House

Day 02

As we had to cover a large area in this day, we started the journey early morning. First place of visit was Godamunne Samadhi Buddha statue.

Godamunne Samadhi Buddha Statue

Soon you pass Theldeniya town Rangala (රoගල) road will come across in left hand side. Godamunne can be reached along that road.

Godamunne Samadhi Buddha Statue. Belongs to Kandyan era.

Godamunne Samadhi Buddha Statue. Belongs to Kandyan era.

Wewathanna View point (1215m)

Wewathanna view point can be reached along the same road to Bombure. Soon you get into by road from main road, it will branch into two. Drive up in left hand side pathway. The road condition is terrible after Rajagala (රජගල) line houses and only can be approached by four wheel or bike. We took about 1hour to reach there by bike.

Wewathanna is a good view point of Dumbara valley. Victoria reservoir, Mahaweli River and Piduruthalagala can be viewed from here. There is a lake situated closer to view point. As water source is also there this might be a good camping site.

Junction. Red arrow to Wewathanna. Black arrow to Bombure

Junction. Red arrow to Wewathanna. Black arrow to Bombure

Take the road closer to Kovil at Rajagalawatta

Take the road closer to Kovil at Rajagalawatta

Take the road towards Wewathanna line houses

Take the road towards Wewathanna line houses

On the way

On the way

Wewathanna Lake

Wewathanna Lake

Closer to Lake

Closer to Lake

Peak of Medamahanuwara Kanda (මැද මහනුවර කන්ද)/Rajagala Kandaරජගල කන්ද (1339m)

Peak of Medamahanuwara Kanda (මැද මහනුවර කන්ද)/Rajagala Kandaරජගල කන්ද (1339m)

Wewathanna. Nice place for camping

Wewathanna. Nice place for camping

Surrounding view from Wewathanna

Surrounding view from Wewathanna

Surrounding view from Wewathanna

Surrounding view from Wewathanna

Kodibandihena (කොඩිබැදිහේන). Might be another good view point

Kodibandihena (කොඩිබැදිහේන). Might be another good view point

Wewathanna Line houses

Wewathanna Line houses

Restarting of Mahaweli River

Restarting of Mahaweli River

Victoria Reservoir

Victoria Reservoir

Rest for the bike

Rest for the bike

We had our late breakfast from Hunnasgiriya (හුන්නස්ගිරිය). Next place for visit was Kewulegama Gal Len Temple.

Hunnasgiriya is the highest point of A26 road. Only mortable road to Meemure (මීමුරේ) via Deenstone (ඩීන්ස්ට්න්) also starts from Hunnasgiriya.

Medamahanuwara Mountain.

Medamahanuwara Mountain.

Medamahanuwara Mountain in left. Nawenagala (නෑවෙනගල) in right

Medamahanuwara Mountain in left. Nawenagala (නෑවෙනගල) in right

Kewulgama Gal Len Temple

Take right hand side road from Hunnasgiriya town to reach Kewulgama. You will come across a junction with a transformer. Take left hand side road. Before the temple an Ambalama (අම්බලම) would be seen.

During Kirthi Sri Rajasingha period Kandy kingdom was invaded by Dutch. Then king has left to Hanguranketha and sacred tooth was brought to Kewulgama Gal Len Temple.

Kewulgama Ambalama

Kewulgama Ambalama

Wood carvings at Ambalama

Wood carvings at Ambalama

Kewulgama Gal Len temple

Kewulgama Gal Len temple

Stupa

Stupa

Ancient Door

Ancient Door

Buddha statue inside the image house

Buddha statue inside the image house

Drip ledge and Bo tree

Drip ledge and Bo tree

We came back to Hunnasgiriya town again and reached Ududumbara (උඩුදුම්බර) town. Our next stop was at Kowilmada where a stone mark placed by survey department can be seen. (In between 47th and 48th kilometer post in left hand side).

Kowilmada survey mark

People at this area called this as the center of Sri Lanka. (Nalanda Gedige (නාලන්දා ගෙඩිගේ) also called center of Sri Lanka!). But it looks like a measurement point used by survey department. I have seen similar mark at Puttalama also.

Uddika is showing the place of bench mark

Uddika is showing the place of bench mark

Fundamental Bench Mark

Fundamental Bench Mark

Closer view

Closer view

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Similar mark at Kalladi village in Puttalama

Similar mark at Kalladi village in Puttalama

After passing Kowilmada, we came across Tampitiyana (ටැම්පිටියාන) junction where we got right hand side road to reach Pallepitawala Ambalama. It was about 4-5km from this junction to Ambalama.

Pallepitawala Ambalama

This Ambalama is also similar to Kewulgama Ambalama where you can see nice wood carvings of Kandyan era.

The road towards Pitawala Village

The road towards Pitawala Village

Scenic Pitawala village

Scenic Pitawala village

Pallepitawala Ambalama

Pallepitawala Ambalama

Nice wood carvings there

Nice wood carvings there

Having a rest

Having a rest

Then we came to Tampitiyana junction and moved towards Mahiyangana. Giants of Knuckles massif-Yahangala, Kehelpothdoruwa, Dumbanagala and Sphinx rock were seen in left hand side of our way. We stopped at the beginning of 18 hair pin bends to have some snaps.

View from the beginning of 18 hair pin bends. Black star-Mapakada Lake, Red star-Dambarawa Lake, Blue star-Sorabora Lake. My guess might be wrong

View from the beginning of 18 hair pin bends. Black star-Mapakada Lake, Red star-Dambarawa Lake, Blue star-Sorabora Lake. My guess might be wrong

Black star-Mapakada Lake. Black arrow shows Friar’s hood.

Black star-Mapakada Lake. Black arrow shows Friar’s hood.

At the beginning of 18 hairs pin bends

At the beginning of 18 hairs pin bends

Few snaps of 18 hair pin bends (දහ අට වoගුව)

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We passed Gurulupotha once we got down 18 hair pin bends. Gurulupotha archeology site is situated near to Gurulupotha Rest House. It is called “Seetha Kotuwa” (සීතා කොටුව) where Seetha was kept by King Rawana (රාවණා රජතුමා). I have been there 5years ago and there were beautiful cascades down to archeology site called Seetha Kotuwa waterfalls.

Foot pathway to archeology site starts behind archeology office

Foot pathway to archeology site starts behind archeology office

Have to cross the canal also

Have to cross the canal also

Seetha Kotuwa archeology site through trees

Seetha Kotuwa archeology site through trees

Seetha Kotuwa Archeology site: It has foundation of two buildings and outer wall

Seetha Kotuwa Archeology site: It has foundation of two buildings and outer wall

Getting down.....

Getting down…..

Seetha Kotuwa waterfalls snapped 5 years ago

Seetha Kotuwa waterfalls snapped 5 years ago

Seetha Kotuwa waterfalls snapped 5years ago.

Seetha Kotuwa waterfalls snapped 5years ago.

Seetha Kotuwa waterfalls snapped 5years ago

Seetha Kotuwa waterfalls snapped 5years ago

Hasalaka was our next stop where we had our lunch and turned to Minipe with hope of joining with Mahaweli Raja Mawatha. Here we had to miss two major waterfalls- Rathna Ella (රත්න ඇල්ල) and Kaluwa Watuna Ella (කළුවා වැටුන ඇල්ල) due to lack of time.

Rathna Ella-Photo was taken 5 years ago

Rathna Ella-Photo was taken 5 years ago

Kaluwa Watuna Ella-photo was taken 5 years ago

Kaluwa Watuna Ella-photo was taken 5 years ago

The road went parallel to Minipe Yoda Ela (මිණිපේ යෝධ ඇල) and entered Sri Lanka’s largest sanctuary- Victoria-Randenigala-Rantambe (VRR). We came across Rantambe National Cadet Center. At this junction we directed to Rantambe dam and reservoir.

Rantambe reservoir and dam

Rantambe dam and power station is the most downward project over Mahaweli River in Dumbara valley. Rantambe has catchment area of 3118Km2 and production capacity of electricity is 52MW. Power station is at left bank of the dam. It was built with financial aid of Germany. Rantambe dam is a gravity type concrete dam (42m high) which has three spillways.

When we visit Rantambe reservoir has been completely emptied for repair in the dam.

Starting of Minipe Yoda Ela-Minipe Anicut.

Starting of Minipe Yoda Ela-Minipe Anicut.

The road through VRR sanctuary

The road through VRR sanctuary

Rantambe reservoir. They have emptied the reservoir

Rantambe reservoir. They have emptied the reservoir

Rantambe Reservoir

Rantambe Reservoir

Rantambe Dam

Rantambe Dam

Over spills of Rantambe

Over spills of Rantambe

Hydro power station of Rantambe

Hydro power station of Rantambe

Restarting of Mahaweli River

Restarting of Mahaweli River

Evening sky over Rantambe

Evening sky over Rantambe

Details of Rantambe project

Details of Rantambe project – Click Image to Enlarge

Following Rantambe we proceeded towards Randenigala dam. Dam and overspill were visible to the road. We entered Raja Mawatha and walked over the dam. It was nice to stay over the dam when dusk comes.

Randenigala reservoir and dam

Randenigala reservoir is the largest one built under accelerated Mahaweli project. Randenigala has catchment area of 2330Km2 and production capacity of electricity is 126MW. Power station is at left bank of the dam. It was built with financial aid of Germany. Randenigala dam is an embankment type dam mostly made of rocks. It has three spillways.

Randenigala over spills. Note the road in left hand side is Raja Mawatha

Randenigala over spills. Note the road in left hand side is Raja Mawatha

Randenigala over spills

Randenigala over spills

Randenigala Reservoir

Randenigala Reservoir

Randenigala Dam

Randenigala Dam

Randenigala over spills

Randenigala over spills

Randenigala power station

Randenigala power station

Over Randenigala dam. This is Rantambe reservoir. Road connects Rantambe road to Raja Mawatha

Over Randenigala dam. This is Rantambe reservoir. Road connects Rantambe road to Raja Mawatha

It ended our two day visits to Dumbara valley and we reached Kandy by 9pm. Before that we stopped at one place on our way to Kandy. That is Keerthi Bandarapura ancient dewalaya.

Keerthi Bandarapura ancient dewalaya is an important stop of drivers to get blessings from local god called Keerthi Bandara

Keerthi Bandarapura ancient dewalaya is an important stop of drivers to get blessings from local god called Keerthi Bandara

Thank you for reading. Have a safe journey.

Seeking the Veiled Princesses Surrounding the Sacred Mountain – Tour de Waterfalls 8…

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Year and Month 14 Sep, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Athula and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Jeep
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Scenic Drive, etc…
Weather Misty, Windy and Gloomy with Heavy Showers every now and then…
Route Kolonnawa->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Kalugala->Bodhigira Junction->Laxapana->Kiriwaneliya->Maussakelle->Mulgama->Moray Estate along Fishing Hut Road->Peak Field Estate->Back to Mulgama->Nallathanniya->Peace Pagoda via Makara Thorana->Back to Maussakelle->Kolonnawa on the same road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can check my previous last Waterfall Hunt here. (Tour de Waterfalls 7).
  • To check the unprecedented water levels of Laxapana and Aberdeen Falls, read the report Waterfall Festival.
  • Nallathanniya is called Del House in English (This may not be any news for most of you but it was the first time I heard of it).
  • The road conditions of Kalugala-Maussakelle are acceptable even though it’s not carpeted. However be sure to take the left or upper road from Bodhigira Junction as last we visited the right or lower road was in horrible condition.
  • The Moray Estate Road (left turn at Mulgama Junction about 1km before Del House) too is not in good condition but can manage even in a car with careful driving. However it’s safe to avoid rainy season if travelling in a car as the water-filled pits can be deeper than they look.
  • There’s no waterfall named “Moray Ella”. I know as soon as you see this, it will boil your blood but keep reading on to find out the truth.
  • You have to follow the Moray Estate Road up to its Tea Factory and then continue towards the Peak Field Estate to view “Peak Field Falls”.
  • There’s a nice summer hut about 2km from the Fishing Hut turn off along Fishing Hut Road. Not recommended to drive up in a car. Ideal if you could walk up there as it’s like walking through heaven. The view from the summer hut is simply amazing.
  • The commonly used name “Rajamale Falls” close to Makara Thorana along Hatton Road is not her real name. She’s the real “Sri Pada Falls”.
  • As many believe, there’s no big cascade at the lower part of Mohini Falls but a considerably taller on at the top. You can clearly see this along Moray Estate Road about 800m from Mulgama Junction but the view is pretty much blocked by the towering Turpentine Trees.
  • There are two more waterfalls close to Mohini Ella but originates from Seetha Gangula. As we could find no record or name of them, we named them “Mulgama Upper Falls” and Mulgama Lower Falls” respectively.
  • Be prepared for leech attacks and slippery ground. (Atha and I learned it the hard way.)
  • It’s better to take some water with you despite there are plenty of water streams. All the garbage left by our so-called devotees to the sacred mountain are sent back along the water streams so it’s better to avoid using that water for drinking.
  • Take care of the Mother Nature and bring back only the pics and memories.
  • Visiting Days and Times for Peak Field Estate to see the waterfall are Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat between 10am – 3pm. Be mindful of that.
  • Special Thanks to Velu Mama and Mr. Rathnayake of Peak Field Estate.
  • Check the Video Journey here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After 7 consecutive successful waterfall tours, I thought it’d be a long time before I could continue where I left off due to the variable rain patterns and severe drought in many areas. However, the late arrival of the South-Western Monsoon made me perish my previous thoughts and revive these journeys and what a time Atha and I had on 14 Sep when I re-started the program.

I’m a passionate fan of the waterfalls, the most wonderful creatures of the Mother Nature. Just a glimpse or a piece of news is enough to make me travel many miles regardless of the weather or terrain to see these Pristine-White Virgin Beauties. They can make you feel relaxed, refreshing, reinvigorating, calm, energetic, special, etc. I’ve felt a whole lot more when I’m with them and my vocabulary is not so rich to express all those feelings.

I’ve a penchant for being with them as long as possible, simply looking at them can make my all sorrows, no matter how terrible they are, vanish into thin air. I’ve already a collection of more than 100 waterfalls in my Facebook page and I hope to visit as many as possible before they disappear from the face of earth thanks to ignorant, careless and heartless activities by many idiots.

I got a sudden craving to go see some of these beauties in and around the Sacred Mountain, Sri Pada and Atha too decided to jump in and this was a very last minute journey making only the two of us this time. We left around 4.00am on a rainy dawn and reached Kalugala Junction while the sun was battling an unwinnable fight against menacingly thick and grey clouds. The Kelani River that runs parallel to A7 was not so rich making us anxious to the water levels of the falls. We were nonetheless fully committed to the mission by then to turn around.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Gerandi Ella, Morahenagama.
  2. Laxapana Ella, Laxapana.
  3. Mulgama Lower Falls, Mulgama.
  4. Mohini Ella, Nallathanniya.
  5. Mulgama Upper Falls, Mulgama.
  6. Gartmore Falls, Gartmore Estate.
  7. Peak Field Falls, Peak Field Estate.
  8. Peak Field Mini Falls, Peak Field Estate.
  9. Cluster of Seasonal Falls, Gangulthenna.
  10. Yaka Andu Ella, Gangulthenna.
  11. Peace Pagoda, Gangulthenna.
  12. Sri Pada Ella, Gangulthenna.

Morahenagama Gernadi Ella

Kehelgamu Oya, usually very rich and jumpy during the rains was not so alive. I was feeling a bit depressed inside as I longed to see more water in the falls. We chose the upper road at Bodhigira Junction that runs to Norton Bridge passing Laxapana Power Station. The morning light was appearing over the misty mountains while we savored the fresh air. For those who, including ourselves, living most of our lives in the concrete jungle of the city, filling our lungs with poisonous air, this is a very welcome opportunity and I always want to travel with lowered shutters.

We came to the Morahenagama Gerandi Falls around 6.30am and got down to see that she still had the same amount of water like we saw last time. I felt like it was high time to open the shutter count for the day and we both got out in the drizzle and started shooting away. She’s so tall yet again I could find no record of her anywhere.

Morahenagama Gerandi Ella

Morahenagama Gerandi Ella

The top of her

The top of her

Portrait

Portrait

Not much water flowing down

Not much water flowing down

Laxapana Ella

Passing her we continued our merry way until we saw the glorious Laxapana Falls to our right. None of us needed to say to the other what we should do. Atha stopped the vehicle automatically and without a word being said, we got out and captured her from a long way away on our lenses.

Unfortunately, the water levels were not like what they were last we visited yet confirming our fears of not enough rains. The milky white water flow kept plunging down to the base where we couldn’t see. Gosh, how beautiful these waterfalls really are. Even though I was compelled to go see both Laxapana and Aberdeen once again having come so close to them, I had to restrain myself continuously repeating to myself that our agenda was something else. Hesitatingly, we both got back in and drove away towards the Maskeliya turn off while the seven virgins hid themselves like always in a thick veil of mist adding to their mystery.

Misty mountains and she's falling nicely in the distance

Misty mountains and she’s falling nicely in the distance

My friends will know that I'd dearly take a cable cutter with me

My friends will know that I’d dearly take a cable cutter with me

Not much water but on our return journey we noticed the water levels had risen

Not much water but on our return journey we noticed the water levels had risen

Portrait

Portrait

Mulgama Lower Falls

Passing lusty green hills and the dancing drizzling of water we reached Maussakelle around 7.30am. This is when we decided that enough was enough and we had to eat something no matter what. Interestingly enough, I learnt that Del House is the English name for Nallathanniya and felt pretty stupid not to have known it all this time despite having come across it numerous times, especially in trip reports. It proved that there’s plenty to learn still. After a poor meal of fish buns and black coffee (usually we have a sumptuous meal for breakfast as almost all the time we skip lunch (ask Kasun, Dhanushka, Tony, Sheham and even Hasi) and devote that time to keep exploring.

Arriving on the Maussakelle Dam which was completely devoid of life was a godsend as I spent nearly half hour walking from end to end enjoying the breath-taking view of the placid Maussakelle Reservoir and never ending mountains. Unfortunately, sacred mountain had decided to cover herself completely with an impregnable veil of light grey muslin cloth. We were offered some fruit from a Poojawa at the Saman Devalaya off the dam by a lady. Atha munched on a piece of pineapple while I grabbed a grape and took on the mesmerizing view. Further away we could see the twin falls falling either side up in the hills of Gartmore Estate. They looked very narrow and so far up giving me more jitters about the water levels.

We then got underway and closer to Mohini Falls noticed a fairly large waterfall to our left and jumped off the vehicle trying to capture her on our lenses. We found a path that runs down towards the Maussakelle Reservoir and the waterfall directly fell into the reservoir marking one end of the reservoir. It’s amazing to see the number of waterfalls falling directly into the reservoir and we saw 5 of them including Mulgama Lower Falls. Others were Mohini Ella (the lower most part), Gartmore Falls, Peak Field Falls and Peak Field Mini Falls.

The view was somewhat blocked by the overgrown trees but there simply wasn’t a way to get any closer. We decided to try from somewhere else and headed towards Mohini Falls that’s right by the roadside about 150m away.

Mystery solved, Del House = Nallathanniya

Mystery solved, Del House = Nallathanniya

Isolated Maussakelle Dam

Isolated Maussakelle Dam

Simply breath-taking

Simply breath-taking

Further in the distance is the Gartmore Estate and we could see the Gartmore Estate Falls from here

Further in the distance is the Gartmore Estate and we could see the Gartmore Estate Falls from here

Sluice gates not open yet

Sluice gates not open yet

Still good enough, Canadian-made

Still good enough, Canadian-made

Powerplant?

Powerplant?

We happened to come across her

We happened to come across her

Gorgeous looking greenery

Gorgeous looking greenery

We got to the path and came this close but not a hope of reaching the base

We got to the path and came this close but not a hope of reaching the base

Zoomed in and she's fairly large

Zoomed in and she’s fairly large

Hitting the reservoir

Hitting the reservoir

The top covered by the trees

The top covered by the trees

She's so beautiful

She’s so beautiful

Endless greenery but what's up there?

Endless greenery but what’s up there?

Ooops!

Ooops!

Mohini Falls

She had a lot of water but not overflowing. It’s believed that this falls resembles a devil named “Mohini” thus the name for the falls. Villagers are believed to be very reluctant to go anywhere near her after its dark due to this reason. Despite all these folklore, we didn’t give a toss about the place being haunted or full of ghosts but her sheer beauty. She falls from a height of 30m right down to the base and then flows under the bridge and joins Maussakelle Reservoir.

Talking of Mohini Falls, I’d come across two very wrong descriptions of her. First being that she has a so much taller upper part and the second claims she has an even bigger lower part as well. From what we saw, you can neither see the top nor bottom parts from the road, just the 30m main body. However, if you drive along Moray Estate Road from the Mulgama Junction, after about 600-800m, you can see the top of Mohini Falls from the distance. Its height, I’d imagine, is around 20-30ft maximum in height and falls to a pool in the middle before making the main body of the falls. However she has this top most part where she slides along a rocky surface at an angle probably increasing her height but not by much, probably 10-15ft more.

I also wanted to check the bottom of the falls to make sure that there’s no such a long part. However, looking at it from the road made us think it was unlikely she’ll have a higher bottom part. On our return having visited Mulgama Upper Falls, Gartmore Falls and Peak Field Falls, I decided to climb down from Fishing Hut Road towards the Maussakelle Reservoir to check this and to get a better view of Mulgama Lower Falls. Unfortunately, after about 600m downhill journey and an elevation about 200ft, I came across two guys who were fishing in the reservoir and to my horror the falls was blocked by a large rocky boulder. I tried walking parallel to the reservoir bank but it was too slippery and dangerous thus abandoned on the idea.

Nevertheless, this served one other purpose. I saw the bottom most part of Mohini Ella that was not taller than maybe 10ft falling through bushes to the reservoir. What horrified me was the amount of garbage collected at the base of her on the surface of reservoir. There must’ve been a few tons of rotten garbage including plastic and polythene stuff. This is how the Sacred Mountain cleanses herself. Most of our rotten devotees to the Sri Pada leave everything they’ve used up dumped anywhere they find destroying the environment and adding onto Mother Nature’s burden. What those fools don’t understand is the Sacred Mountain doesn’t intend to be treated like that and she throws them all back at us by sending them in waves during the heavy rainy season cleansing her ruined beauty.

It was threatening to rain at any moment and we spent as long as we dare without putting our plans in jeopardy and went further up the road.

Beautiful Mohini, from the road

Beautiful Mohini, from the road

Close

Close

Plenty of water

Plenty of water

Right at the top

Right at the top

Silky smooth

Silky smooth

The full package

The full package

Parting shot, that cable almost ruined the pic

Parting shot, that cable almost ruined the pic

Mulgama Upper Falls

Just as we were passing the top of Mulgama Lower Falls, I heard (we were travelling shutter-lowered) another roar of falling water. It’s now a familiar sound that has embedded in my brain and I seemed to have developed a very good sense too in knowing where the waterfalls are. We stopped by and I could see a falls about 15-20ft in height. No second thoughts and I ran down what was only visible path towards the Seetha Gangula but landed on the top of the falls. There was no way to reach the bottom but we saw a person chopping up some wood on the other bank and below the falls and decided to come around and do likewise.

After a few pictures and half a dozen leech attacks I got back on the road and insisted Atha drive as quickly as possible. We reached the Mulgama Junction and turned to left which is the Moray Estate Road, rather Fishing Hut Road. About 500m to the road, we stopped by and took the path through the tea patch parallel to the Seetha Gangula but after 150m or so it became so slippery and muddy. Having labored so much, we reached the bottom to be rewarded by a mini version of Sera Ella or Ramboda Oya Centre Falls.

She was as I said before about 10-15ft in height and that much wide. The rain was imminent and I was thankful for the umbrella but Atha very lazily and not wanting to wet his umbrella had left his in the vehicle. We took the pictures and rain came hard and fast at us with the winds. We squeezed under the umbrella protecting our phones and cameras as best as we can (I’m glad I’m a point-n-shoot guy not a DSLR one) and waited for it to pass. The rocks were like okra, very slippery and we had a tough time getting back. I wanted to tackle the water stream and reach the top of Mulgama Lower Falls and headed on downstream.

There were two more ladies and another guy who had joined the first person in chopping up some sticks for their farms and we headed towards them when out of nowhere I was looking up the sky lying on my back. Yeah, you guessed right, I had fallen off and my back and legs and right arm all started to hurt at once. I didn’t know what to do but simply stayed like that and Atha came and gave me a hand. My next picture was him falling face down next to me having slipped on a rock. The ladies nearby scream “Ai Ayyooooo” as if we were killed on the spot.

Atha got up and inspected him for injuries and found most skin on his right elbow has been peeled off and a scary looking stream of blood was beginning to come out. I got up and found no serious damage except some more bruises. Thankfully none of our electronics were damaged in the fall (thanks goodness for the point-n-shoots). I took it as a sign not to press ahead with our plans for the downstream journey and got back, with so much difficulty on the road and went back towards Mulgama Junction searching for plasters for the wounds.

Where I got down to see the falls

Where I got down to see the falls

The top, we had to come around from the other end and managed to get to the bottom

The top, we had to come around from the other end and managed to get to the bottom

More water

More water

From the Moray Estate Road

From the Moray Estate Road

Searching for Mulgama Lower Falls

Searching for Mulgama Lower Falls

Here she is

Here she is

Amazing

Amazing

Close up

Close up

The downstream and about 100m further down is the Lower Falls but our attempts to reach her simply got washed out

The downstream and about 100m further down is the Lower Falls but our attempts to reach her simply got washed out

The base

The base

All the garbage and plastic bottles had been washed ashore

All the garbage and plastic bottles had been washed ashore

One of my mandatory requirements in a journey

One of my mandatory requirements in a journey

Cherry?

Cherry?

Wow

Wow

Long shot after our fall

Long shot after our fall

Gartmore Falls

The road is not in very good condition, typical estate road but can manage even in a car if you drive at a snail’s speed and the caution of a deer. However not ideal to do so when it’s raining as the water-filled pot holes can be deeper than they appear. It’s about well 3-4km and stick to the Moray Estate Road that leads to their factory.

The road is one of the scenic ones you’d ever see and as I mentioned above you could see the top of Mohini’s about 800m into the road to your left. The view is not so clear due to the towering turpentine trees but should be ok so long as you keep an eye out for it. Please make sure it’s the passengers that keep an eye out for it not the driver, if not you’ll all be able to have a nice bath in the Maussakelle Reservoir.

We kept going till we reached the turn off to Fishing Hut (it’s to your right that goes uphill with the name placed in big letters using white stones). We could see the factory downhill (go straight) but waited for somebody come to get the proper directions. Gartmore Falls can be seen from here in the distance and the rain had decided to leave us in peace for the time being when a motorbike arrived from the factory side. He was the veterinarian of the area and told us that there’s a nice summer hut along the fishing hut road about 2km away where you could get a majestic view of Maussakelle Reservoir and Gartmore Falls. Unfortunately he wasn’t aware of Moray Falls that we wanted to see.

We drove up the road which was even more scenic and let me tell you now that Moray Estate is one of the most beautiful ones I’ve ever seen despite its road conditions. At the beginning of the road it’s said on a notice board only 4WD vehicles allowed. However, we took the chance of going in Atha’s Jeep and it struggled but managed to drive up. After about 15mins drive and around 2km we got to the two-storied summer hut. The view was, we’ll I’m beyond words to say how I felt. It was one of the most scenic views I’ve seen so far (I’ve seen quite a few of them) and it was simply spectacular. You could spend hours looking at this wonderful creature of the Mother Nature.

The summer hut was built of bamboo and hay mainly and had two floors. A two-storied summer hut? And overlooking this gorgeous environment? What else a man can ask for except for a cup of steaming coffee to savor the beauty. We could see the lush greenery to the slope in front of us and beyond at the edge of the reservoir to our 10 o’clock was the Moray Tea Factory. Beyond all that was the placid Maussakelle Reservoir. Towering over her was the Gartmore Estate and mountain range. To our 1 o’clock was the lusty Gartmore Falls, falling straight onto the reservoir. To your right was the road towards Fishing Hut and Rajamale area. We couldn’t see more than a few km as the mist was so thick and coming at us fast. Beyond the Gartmore Falls up in the hills were the twin falls or some would say Gartmore Estate Falls. Maskeliya Town was visible in the far while the sun was peering through the cloud barrier.

The water started to glisten in the golden rays of sun while the cool breeze coming from Gartmore and Upcot area chilled our exposed skin. The mist was coming down from the Sri Pada enveloping us little by little. We still had no idea where Moray Falls was and I called Hasi several times to find out the directions but it being a Sunday he must’ve been fast asleep so instead tried the trusted old source in Tony Mama. He was at work and while we waited got into Lakdasun and Hasi’s Report and read out the directions. We had to get down to the tea factory and take a by road from there. The mist completely obscured our view and it started raining heavily and we spent the time in the shade of the summer hut.

You can check the Documentary from the Summer Hut I shot here.

Getting back in the vehicle and we started to drive downhill but I got myself dropped about 1.5km from the turn off and started walking through this heavenly beautiful surroundings.

You can check the Walk the Talk Video here.

It was a heavenly experience but the sun had completely shut himself and the constant drizzling would’ve been a nuisance if it wasn’t for my umbrella. I walked and joined Atha at the turn off and we headed downhill towards the factory in search of Moray Falls.

One of the most beautiful estates I've seen

One of the most beautiful estates I’ve seen

The reservoir in the background is simply great

The reservoir in the background is simply great

Take the right hand path

Take the right hand path

Gartmore Estate beyond the water

Gartmore Estate beyond the water

The road we came up to the Fishing Hut turn off

The road we came up to the Fishing Hut turn off

Easy to find, to the right is the Fishing Hut road and straight on is the Factory and then Peak Field View

Easy to find, to the right is the Fishing Hut road and straight on is the Factory and then Peak Field View

View from the junction

View from the junction

Carbon-copy of Devon Falls?

Carbon-copy of Devon Falls?

Portrait

Portrait

Fishing Hut Road

Fishing Hut Road

After about 2km is this

After about 2km is this

Lack of maintenance probably has given it a dilapidated look

Lack of maintenance probably has given it a dilapidated look

You can see the decaying bamboo

You can see the decaying bamboo

Panoramic view

Panoramic view

Some more

Some more

There she is

There she is

Can see the Factory and the road that leads to it

Can see the Factory and the road that leads to it

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Gartmore Estate Falls, they join to make the Gartmore Falls

Gartmore Estate Falls, they join to make the Gartmore Falls

Other side bank

Other side bank

Just look at the color combination

Just look at the color combination

Another portrait

Another portrait

I started walking

I started walking

Lush greenery

Lush greenery

Walking through heaven

Walking through heaven

Uphill

Uphill

Manicured to the perfection

Manicured to the perfection

Couldn't get enough of her

Couldn’t get enough of her

More to go

More to go

Yellow flowers adding to the already beautiful scenery

Yellow flowers adding to the already beautiful scenery

I guess you'd agree with me this is one of the most beautiful estates in SL

I guess you’d agree with me this is one of the most beautiful estates in SL

We'll see what the board says

We’ll see what the board says

You can book it using the number

You can book it using the number

Endless

Endless

Droplets hanging

Droplets hanging

Here's the warning note at the beginning of Fishing Hut Road

Here’s the warning note at the beginning of Fishing Hut Road

Here's the path

Here’s the path

Peak Field Falls

We managed to reach the tea factory which was closed and as mentioned in Hasi’s report found the two concrete paths to the right next to each other. Don’t take the one to right that goes uphill but the one goes downhill to the left. It’s almost invisible as soon as you turn to your right at the factory. They are very well paved and you can’t miss them. This is where things could go wrong if you don’t know what you’re looking for.

We asked at least half a dozen people where the Moray Falls is and none of them knew it. Everyone pointed at the Gartmore Falls that is clearly visible in the distance and when we insisted we wanted Moray Falls, they pointed back to where we came from saying, “That Moray Estate”. Oh dear, I was so frustrated and could recall what happened when we were desperately searching for Mount Vernon Falls in Dimbula Pathana. It was the same as nobody knew of the falls except Devon and St. Claire but with so much difficulty we managed to locate her.

However, finally one of the estate workers got our message that we were looking for a waterfall and he said some word which we didn’t quite catch. We followed him and about 600m on the road passing a shop too. As soon as you pass the shop which is on your right hand side the road will take a sharp bend to your right that goes uphill. From here you can see a green painted gate (most probably it’s open) to your left with a somewhat narrow road. This is the entrance to the Peak Field Estate and take that road but do stop at the gate.

Look at the notice on the gate. When you do, it’ll shock you coz there’s no Moray Falls anywhere near and you can search all you want but won’t find a thing. The notice on the gate has this both in Sinhala and English: Read carefully,

“Kindly note, due to the inconvenience caused, outsiders visiting the Peak Field Waterfall are only allowed through the Peak Field Estate Premises from 10.00am to 3.00pm on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.

Thank You

Management”

The moment we saw this, all the anxiety went away as we knew how hopeless it’d’ve been to keep looking for Moray Falls. The Moray Estate boundary is the factory and beyond that is the Peak Field Estate in which the falls is located after about 600m walk. We drove through and another 100m or saw was a closed gate and beyond that another 100m or saw was what looked like a bungalow. Beyond all this was lush tea plants followed by the reservoir and then at the far end falling majestically was, you guessed wrong, it was the Gartmore Falls not the other.

There were a couple of houses before the closed gate and a few workers were there and when we asked them about the Peak Field Falls, they simply pointed at the gate and said that we’d have to ask for permission. Remember, this was a Sunday, and people are not allowed on Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. Do keep that in mind as we were lucky but you might not be if you happen to go there on one of those days.

Having parked our vehicle, we walked through the opening next to the gate and reached the bungalow and the office. There was no one in sight even though a van was parked there. We hovered around looking for someone when an old uncle (Velu Mama) came walking up the path from the further below and he was surprised to see the strangers invading their territory. We then asked him about the falls and he said that we’d have to check with the officer in charge. He was sleeping and Velu went and knocked on the door while I was busy taking pics of the breath-taking Gartmore Falls. You remember I said before that Moray Estate was one of the most beautiful estates I’ve seen so far and you can now add Peak Field Estate too into that list. It’s the Maussakelle Reservoir, Gartmore Falls and Peak Field Falls that make it into that top category without a question.

We managed to wake him up, Mr. Rathnayaka, who was very friendly and after listening to our pleas and of course looking at Atha (he must’ve remembered his grandpa) he said we could go see the falls. It was helpful that only two of us were there. He then went onto say the troubles they have with visitors coming and dumping all sorts of garbage and drink liquor and throw everything at the reservoir. It is the same story wherever we go and we felt very sad and humiliated too.

Velu mama offered to take us to the falls and we walked along the footpath and all along Gartmore Falls was with us, smiling down at our soaked bodies. She must’ve wondered what on earth we were doing in the rain. As soon as we started walking towards the falls, there was a seasonal cascade to our right but not much water. Just bear in mind that to our right about 500ft up was the Fishing Hut Road and our summer hut (sorry it’s not our summer hut, slip of the fingers). That’s why we couldn’t see the Peak Field Estate clearly.

Walking further downhill I heard the sound of an M6 coming towards us. Now don’t look flabbergasted, I know you think I’m crazy from the toes to my head to imagine M6s in such a location but it was the same sound. I can still remember the sound Aberdeen and Laxapana Falls made (more like a dozen or so M6s coming bearing down on us) and suddenly it clicked that this could be the Peak Field Falls. Gosh, she must be huge and there should be plenty of water. I was dancing down the path practically running waving my umbrella like a sword heading into the battle.

Atha beat me to it and at the first sight he turned around and shouted “Sri, Andenawa Thani Ehata” and I ran downhill and turning to my right what I saw stunned me and stopped me in my tracks. There was this massive body of water coming through a dense forest and falling down about 100ft right into the reservoir sending a cloud of water drops all around. It was one of the greatest moments in my travels. We went slowly along the path to the edge of the reservoir to get as closer to her as possible. She was so rich and ripe and I couldn’t get enough of her but the hovering dark clouds made the lighting rubbish but as if hearing our pleas, the sky cleared as if in magic and there was a stream of sunlight across the falls making her radiant. Only thing lacking was, a rainbow.

There was another waterfall so close to us falling onto the reservoir but there was very little water in her despite she was as tall or even taller than Peak Field Falls (hard to say that name, ain’t it?) proving that there were two different streams feeding these two beauties even though they were so much closer to each other. We named her the Peak Field Mini Falls and Velu mama was so surprised to see the mad rush in us having seen these ladies. There was a worker too helping out clearing the paths and very reluctantly having taken a few dozen pics.

We got back to the office and woke Mr. Rathnayake once again to thank him and got back having tipped Velu Mama for accompanying us. As if on cue, the moment we got into the vehicle it started pouring with rain. We were given that window to go see this lady in style. We headed back towards Del House and on the way I got down to Reservoir trying to get a better pic of Mulgama Lower Falls but was not so lucky but realized there was no bigger lower part of Mohini Falls.

Moray Tea Factory

Moray Tea Factory

Please note this

Please note this

Red flowers, common in upcountry

Red flowers, common in upcountry

The closed gate

The closed gate

Garbage collection points... amazing, ain't it?

Garbage collection points… amazing, ain’t it?

The road to the bungalow cum office, in the distance is Gartmore Falls

The road to the bungalow cum office, in the distance is Gartmore Falls

No one in sight

No one in sight

What wouldn't I give to be in a place like this?

What wouldn’t I give to be in a place like this?

Atha and Velu Mama heading towards Peak Field Falls

Atha and Velu Mama heading towards Peak Field Falls

Gartmore with us all along

Gartmore with us all along

She simply won't stay away, tempting me all the time

She simply won’t stay away, tempting me all the time

Through the tea estate

Through the tea estate

Portrait

Portrait

The path and the falls

The path and the falls

Seasonal cascade at the beginning of the path

Seasonal cascade at the beginning of the path

Anyone home?

Anyone home?

Rain eased...

Rain eased…

The mountain in the background of Gartmore Estate

The mountain in the background of Gartmore Estate

Here we are

Here we are

Oh my gosh!

Oh my gosh!

Top of her

Top of her

Middle

Middle

Portrait

Portrait

Serene Maussakelle Reservoir, just beyond is Gartmore Falls

Serene Maussakelle Reservoir, just beyond is Gartmore Falls

She's super

She’s super

Velu mama on the left and another worker we met

Velu mama on the left and another worker we met

Sun appeared out of nowhere

Sun appeared out of nowhere

"Mysterious girl, I wanna get close to you"

“Mysterious girl, I wanna get close to you”

The falls nearby, we named her Peak Field Mini Falls

The falls nearby, we named her Peak Field Mini Falls

Not much water

Not much water

Very high

Very high

Time to go

Time to go

One of the nicest quotes

One of the nicest quotes

Heading back

Heading back

Top of Mohini

Top of Mohini

Clear shot

Clear shot

The bus that goes to Moray Estate

The bus that goes to Moray Estate

The part we see on the road of Mohini

The part we see on the road of Mohini

Here she is

Here she is

Full pic

Full pic

Started going down

Started going down

Greenery

Greenery

After a lot of difficulty, got down

After a lot of difficulty, got down

Base of Mohini, no big part

Base of Mohini, no big part

See the garbage collection

See the garbage collection

They were fishing

They were fishing

The Waterfalls along the Path from Del House to Peace Pagoda

We arrived at Del House and stopped at Mama Kade just passing the giant Buddha Statue. The town was pretty much muddy and isolated save for a few rain coated villagers going about their business. We stopped and asked the girl if there was anything to eat and she said there was Roti. The imaginary pic of hot Roti with Lunu Miris made my mouth salivating and we ran into the shop. All my dreams evaporated in seconds to find ice cold Roti and not so good looking Lunu Miris but did we have any choice, afraid not.

There were only three of them available and we washed them down with tasty coffee (that girl knows how to make coffee) and got ready to walk the path. Most of them thought that we were planning on climbing the Sri Pada but when we said that we were on visiting waterfalls; most of them looked at us as if we were aliens. It was still raining and we took shelter in our umbrellas and carried along the muddy path jumping over the puddles. The Seetha Gangula looked ferocious sending hundreds of thousands of gallons of brownish water downstream. The stalls normally full of vendors and buyers during the season were abandoned, their roofs partially gone in the strong gusts, doors stood ajar and the racks were falling down. Stray dogs and cats found shelter in these crumbling structures and looked forlornly at us.

We could see the top of a mighty big waterfall and thought it could be the Sri Pada Falls, I know now you’re confused coz you know Gartmore Falls as the Sri Pada Falls but not in my book. I guess Shareez and Uncle Tony had found out and confirmed the waterfall close to Makara Thorana is not Rajamale Falls but the actual Sri Pada Falls. Any how it’s very unlikely for this falls to be called Rajamale as it’s on the other side of the mountain. So we’ll stick to Sri Pada Falls if you guys don’t mind.

Getting closer we saw suddenly to our right a few streaks of white lines, do you guys remember the rocky surface that runs all the way to your right around Makara Thorana and Peace Pagoda? Looking closer we realized they were seasonal cascades that come down the rocky slab among bushes. I remembered a pic taken by Shareez some time ago and ever since was dreaming of taking something like that. Looking at the scene unfolding in front of me was exactly the same thing and I forgot that it was raining in my rush to take a pic. There were maybe half a dozen or so waterfalls; one making a few cascaded on the downward journey.

We reached the Makara Thorana and then the skeleton bridge at Seethagangulagama where these cascades were visible nicely. What amazed me most was the waterfall under the bridge, not right under it but about 20ft away from it where the Seethagangula crosses the path and then falls down about 30-40ft creating this mighty waterfall. During the season, there’s very little of this and there’s no path to get down and take a clear pic so most of the times, this waterfall goes unnoticed. The ones climbing up are in a hurry to go up as soon as possible, if they do it at night, this is out of the question and for those who coming down have nothing but getting to Del House ASAP.

The amount of water in this simply amazed me but there was no way of taking a clear pic of her. We could see a hut someway down on the other side but it has been a place used by a monk who had passed away about one and half years ago. There were a few Tamil people who got so scared when we said that we’d like to get down to the hut and take some pics. They frantically warned us not to go there saying the place is haunted. I cared nothing about ghosts but there simply wasn’t a way to get down even after we checked with the Civil Defense Forces (CDF) soldiers who were at work nearby.

We then went on towards Peace Pagoda maneuvering through the slippery path and in the distance we saw the super tall Yaka Andu Ella. There wasn’t a sign of the Sacred Peak due to the fog but the Peace Pagoda rose majestically towards the sky which was laden with water-clogged clouds. To the left of it was the Yaka Andu Ella falling down from at a guess about 600ft above. There was a person who was supplying basic items for the CDF soldiers such as rice, vegetables, etc. and he was very interested to speak with us.

When I said that we were there to see the Yaka Andu Ella he said that even he wasn’t aware of the falls name was that. He was boasting that this could be the tallest in SL and so many of my attempts at convincing him that she wasn’t fell in deaf ears. The rain eased as if on cue allowing us some time to take pics in peace. I was so hungry and asked if he’d have anything for us to eat but even the CDF soldiers were still cooking their lunch, time was around 3.30pm. Feeling ravenous but so content in our minds we started walking back towards Makara Thorana hoping to visit Sri Pada Falls when it started raining once again.

Having reached the Makara Thorana we sheltered nearby the wildlife office waiting for a break to visit the falls. She was about 50m away but the view was blocked by the trees and we had to walk up through the tea estate to get a clear view of her. The rain was relentless and I was praying for a break. The time had gone 4.30pm and it was getting darker by the minute and out of nowhere I got this feeling to start walking towards the falls despite the rain. We both tackled the slippery rocks and reached a point we got a majestic view of the falls.

What happened next was truly intriguing. The rain stopped immediately the moment we reached a point where we could take a pic of the falls. You might say I’m too superstitious which I’m not but I had so much faith in Mother Nature and she delivered it in style every time we needed a break to take pics. Looking back, it was the same throughout the day. Talking about the Sri Pada Falls, she was one grand beauty and you could simply keep looking at no matter what happened around you.

She’s about 120ft in height and wider than most of the falls we saw that day. This was the perfect ending to a perfect day. We got even closer and took few pics and videos before calling it a day and heading back towards Del House.

We reached Mama Kade once again hoping for a good cuppa coffee made by that little girl but she wasn’t there but there was a single Roti they had made which we ate like beggars. The coffee made by the Mudalali was nowhere near the quality of that little girl (he needs a lesson from her) but it warmed our chilled inside.

We left and on our way saw the water levels of Mohini Falls have risen and stopped by to take a few more pics even in the rain and were on our way.

We took the same road back and the mountainous road was covered in mist. We were practically lost in a world of its own. All in all, it was a super duper day and we enjoyed every minute of it to the maximum. The weather was very kind to us and Mother Nature looked after us.

The bridge across Seetha Gangula

The bridge across Seetha Gangula

Water levels rising

Water levels rising

Mini Falls under the bridge

Mini Falls under the bridge

I simply love this board, maybe coz it has my name on it

I simply love this board, maybe coz it has my name on it

Seasonal cascades all around

Seasonal cascades all around

Misty and you can barely see some of the white streaks

Misty and you can barely see some of the white streaks

Mini cascades all along the water stream

Mini cascades all along the water stream

Skeleton bridge under which goes the Seethagangulagama Falls

Skeleton bridge under which goes the Seethagangulagama Falls

Left of the bridge

Left of the bridge

The right and at the end is the top of the falls, to the left of the downhill is where that monk used to stay

The right and at the end is the top of the falls, to the left of the downhill is where that monk used to stay

Still standing

Still standing

The pic I was dreaming about

The pic I was dreaming about

Closer and compact

Closer and compact

Singling out

Singling out

Individual cascades

Individual cascades

Individual cascades

Individual cascades

Individual cascades

Individual cascades

It's a view one can keep looking at without getting bored

It’s a view one can keep looking at without getting bored

Atha leading the way

Atha leading the way

At the foot of the steps

At the foot of the steps

Frontal view

Frontal view

Commemoration plaque

Commemoration plaque

The writing underneath

The writing underneath

The steps from the top

The steps from the top

Isolated

Isolated

Peace Pagoda and Yaka Andu Ella in the background

Peace Pagoda and Yaka Andu Ella in the background

Golden Buddha Statue placed in front of the Pagoda there

Golden Buddha Statue placed in front of the Pagoda there

Misty Yaka Andu Ella

Misty Yaka Andu Ella

Closer

Closer

Plenty of tears

Plenty of tears

Peace Pagoda looking majestic amid all this

Peace Pagoda looking majestic amid all this

At the Makara Thorana

At the Makara Thorana

Waiting for a break

Waiting for a break

Our target, too close yet too far

Our target, too close yet too far

Close up

Close up

The path to the waterfall is from here to the left

The path to the waterfall is from here to the left

If you climb these you can get a better view from the distance, to right path will take you to the base

If you climb these you can get a better view from the distance, to right path will take you to the base

From a distance

From a distance

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Going towards the base

Going towards the base

She's unbelievably beautiful

She’s unbelievably beautiful

Portrait

Portrait

Upper part

Upper part

The Bottom

The Bottom

Saying good bye

Saying good bye

On the way back, Mohini got more water

On the way back, Mohini got more water

Plunging down under the bridge

Plunging down under the bridge

Ciao...

Ciao…

Well guys, I guess you could take a look at the Panos I took during the journey.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

So there ends yet another of my Tour de Waterfalls, the 8th to date and this was one of my favorite. Guess what, I was asked a few times what my favorite waterfall was and found out that I was stuck to give an answer. There are so many I’ve seen so far, (close to 200) and can’t put my finger on any one in particular. However, on second thoughts, St. Claire has been very close to my heart and if she was alive, I’d have had no trouble saying it was her that my favorite. However, now I’m reluctant to do that coz most of the people will remember a rocky surface with a few cascades falling down when I say St. Claire.

Thinking of her always make my heart aches but what to do. Hope you guys enjoyed it and loved the pics as much as I did taking them.

Hoping to do another soon always supposing time permits.

Take care and keep travelling and curse the ones who killed my beloved St. Claire.

Cheers

Sri…

Clutching at Straws – Tour de Waterfalls 9…

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Year and Month 24 Sep, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Harinda and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Motor Bike
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Maharagama->Kottawa->Bandaragama->Waskaduwa->Katukurunda->Thudugala->Matugama->Agalawaththa->Bellana->Polgampola->Kurupita->Baduraliya->Morapitiya->Mahawakanda->Morapitiya->Hadigalla Road->Batahena->back to Baduraliya->Matugama->Horana->Homagama->Maharagama.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • Leech protection is recommended.
    • Rainy season is the idea time to visit even though it’d be hard to travel and take pics.
    • Most of the by routes are in very bad condition. Motor bike, Tuk-tuk, Jeep, high clearance vehicles or on foot are recommended.
    • Avoid trying to bathe in the waterfalls, especially when the water levels are high. But you’ll see plenty of safe bathing spots in these places.
    • The term “Waterfall” is a highly controversial one as many of these are not so high and mainly are popular bathing places.
    • Carry water and some snacks with you but bring back the wrappings and bottles.
    • Always ask your way from locals; not from one but from a few as many of them are not so friendly (thanks to the drunkards and trouble makers) and don’t give clear directions. So try and do the homework before going on.
    • Special Thanks to Niroshana’s Report.
    • Check the Video Journey here.
    • Protect the Nature and don’t litter.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It’s been a fantastic year 2014, for me. I’ve managed to dedicate most of my time for the ones I adore this year, Waterfalls, my never-ending passion. I simply dote on them. These pristine white virgin beauties can take my breath away every time I’m with them. Seeing them again and again doesn’t make me lose interest in them but the opposite.

The more I see the more I wanna see and be with them. Visiting them again and again, I figured that I gotta do something special about them, the result being the birth of Tour de Waterfalls, my own and unique version of a guide to these wonderful creations of the Mother Nature.

The monsoon season over the last two years has been so vary and erratic causing so many discomforts to the farmers and the agricultural industry sky-rocketing the prices of food products. The draught has caused further damage depriving the people and animals of many districts. As usual the general public came to their rescue sending much needed water and dry food rations for their fellow countrymen regardless of their race or religion. Well, the draught was good for the bottled water companies, multiplying their revenues but at the same time adding an unbearable amount of plastic into the environment. Most of those (especially 500ml, 1litre and 1.5litre bottles) plastic will find their way into our forests, tanks and rivers polluting them heavily. These tiny bottles will have very little use after the draught is over.

If only we, rather the powers-that-be, could provide these draught affected areas with 50-100litre or more capacitive containers, the harm will be minimum as the tendency to reuse them is very high. We could even provide them with large cement tanks for the villagers to be used in emergencies like these instead of sending wave after wave of plastic into these areas, filling the pockets of multinational corporations and destroying our natural resources. Well, it is one of my brain waves, if one could call that.

The late arrival of the south-western monsoon helped me carry on my Tour de Waterfalls from where I stopped. The restart came before this when Atha and I visited the Sri Pada area bringing you the Tour de Waterfalls 8. It really was a treat and a godsend. After that, I wanted to do a few more and my long time travel partner, Thadi Hariya joined me for the continuation of Athwelthota and Matugama area. You can see our first visit there late last year under the name “Old Man & the Seven Virgins“.

However I’ve come to realize that the term waterfall can be highly controversial due to various reasons. There’s no minimum height required for something to be called a waterfall or any other significant aspects. For example, Abarana Ella in Hambantota district and Hakgedi Ella in Matara district are nothing but extremely tiny cascades made along the water stream. There are many more falls like that in any river and if we take them all into account, there could easily be nearly a million waterfalls in Sri Lanka alone. So it’s a tricky thing but I’ll leave it at that for the time being allowing you readers too to join in the fun. Going a bit further on this, most of these are popular bathing places than waterfalls e.g. Algama Ella, Thambadola Ella, etc.

We left early in the morning towards Bandaragama on Hari’s Dandu Monara and then turned into the Galle Road.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Thudugala Ella, Dodangoda.
  2. Thambadola Ella, Polgampola.
  3. Julee Ella, Polgampola.
  4. Bala Ella, Morapitiya.
  5. Maha Ella, Morapitiya.
  6. Sudu Kanda Mini Falls, Morapitiya.

Thudugala Ella

We reached Kalutara Temple as the sun was turning up for the day; the sky was painted mauve and then turned into bright orange. The white Chaithya looked amazing and grand. We stopped for a while and took in the scenery and the fresh air coming along the ripe Kalu Ganga. We then turned to the Matugama road at Katukurunda junction. We reached the Thudugala junction before the Dodangoda town and took the left Thudugala road.

We rode about 4.5km, on the way passing the E01 overhead. You will come to a junction just passing a narrow bridge with a bus stand to the left. There’ll be a signpost of the Thudugala Ella here. Turn left and after about 50m turn to the narrow right hand road. Well it’s the first right hand turn off so you can’t miss it. Straight ahead about 100m is the Thudugala Estate. If you go by a vehicle, you could stop at about halfway down this road. Just remember not to enter through the gate of the estate at the far end; the workers are not very friendly or welcoming. They won’t even allow you to park your vehicle there. There’s a footpath to the right just before the gate through a rubber patch and take it all the way up to the falls.

It’s about 300-400m to the falls and about halfway you can see the derelict remains of the Thudugala Factory.

The falls was in near full flow. We savored every minute of our stay there picturing her in many different angles. After that, we took on to the footpath to the top of the falls. It was a majestic location and in My Previous Visit I noticed an upper section of her and decided to explore a bit further up. The rocks can be very slippery and take every precaution possible. It wasn’t far; just 20-30m from the top we saw the upper section of her that was simply gorgeous. We stayed there a bit enjoying this isolated beauty due to the day being a Wednesday. However it was heart breaking to see the damage done to the environment around her.

There was plenty of garbage and liquor bottles, beer cans strewn about, polluting the water stream. Broken glass can be very dangerous so tread on carefully. We left and about halfway along the road back to Thudugala junction stopped at a shop called “Gemi Bath Kade”. It really was a great place, you can easily find it by the roadside and there might be a big tipper or two stopped as well. The food was hot and tasty, plenty of varieties to choose from such as string hoppers, roti, thosai, wadei, rice and curry, bull’s eye, etc. We ate a sumptuous meal and the bill was however very small compared to other places. Everything felt great and it was time to go towards Polgampola searching for two more falls.

Majestic Kalutara Chaithya in the morning

Majestic Kalutara Chaithya in the morning

Kalu Ganga, as large as ever

Kalu Ganga, as large as ever

The newly erected sign, turn left from here

The newly erected sign, turn left from here

Thudugala Estate Factory; Do Not walk through that. There's a footpath just before the gate to the right that goes through a rubber plantation

Thudugala Estate Factory; Do Not walk through that. There’s a footpath just before the gate to the right that goes through a rubber plantation

Here's the path

Here’s the path

Abandoned Thudugala Factory

Abandoned Thudugala Factory

The path and the bridge

The path and the bridge

The rubber plantation, you can see a diversion of water (green pipeline uphill)

The rubber plantation, you can see a diversion of water (green pipeline uphill)

Lower part

Lower part

There she is

There she is

Simply great

Simply great

Love the sight of her

Love the sight of her

Closer

Closer

Top of her

Top of her

Base pool

Base pool

From the top

From the top

The top of her

The top of her

Here's the top part of her

Here’s the top part of her

Covered by trees and rocks

Covered by trees and rocks

Somewhat clearer view

Somewhat clearer view

Tapper met on the way

Tapper met on the way

Busy at work

Busy at work

Razor sharp

Razor sharp

Getting collected

Getting collected

Thambadola aka Rideevita Ella & Julee Ella

We turned back onto the Matugama road and passing it reached Agalawatte town. Carry on towards Kalawana and about 1.5-2km from the Agalawatte town is Bellana area, from here turn into the right road near a Bo Tree and a Filling Station. It’ll lead to the Polgampola town via Kitulgoda. Alternatively, you could take the Matugama-Horawala road (turn right at Matugama town) and get to Polgampola via Horawala, Lihiniyawa and Moragala. Arriving at the town, take a left at the 4-way junction to Polgampola-Kurupita road. Take the first right turn after 750m or so to the Meddakanda road.

Travel along this road about 1.5-2km till you reach the second bridge with a shop to your right after the bridge. Under the bridge is the Thambadola. Passing this bridge and the shop for 20-30m, there’s a well paved path to the left. Take this, there’s a sign at the beginning of the path and it’ll then cross the Thambadola. Take this path for about 200m till you reach the Thambadola Ella to your right with a big base pool. The water levels were fairly low despite the heavy rains recently. It confirmed a very scary fact which is the water retaining capability of the soil has diminished significantly over the last couple of years due to destruction of forests in the mid and up country. The water simply flows downhill when it rains but as the rain stop so does the water flow and level. If you want to see the waterfalls with water, travel when it rains, not after. I know it’s pretty difficult, challenging and dangerous but otherwise you’ll be disappointed by what you see.

As I feared, there was very little water in the tiny falls but the base pool looked crystal clear tempting Hari to go for a dip early in the morning. While we were pondering over this, there was a group of boys come for a bath and we perished our thoughts and went further uphill keeping the stream to our right. Another 200m or so we came across a hall which we suspected to be another cancerous mini hydro power plant. Looking closer, we saw a group of adults and realized it was a Dhana Shalawa (Alms Hall) of the Thundola Hermitage which is located about 2-3km along the same footpath. Those people had brought the morning meal for the monks in the hermitage and were cleaning up. They were surprised to see us there as most of the visitors only come for a bath at the Thambadola Ella. We told them that we were on the lookout for Julee Ella which made them look dubious.

According to them there was no waterfall named Julee Ella but we insisted there was and one old uncle (not as old as Tony Mama) suggested we go uphill a bit more and take a look. They left for the Thambadola Ella going to join those boys and we went uphill searching for the Julee Ella. That uncle warned us the path was full of leeches and other poisonous specimens such as snakes and scorpions. However having seen the rotund shape of Hari, he further stated that the walk will do us some good; I knew he meant that only for Hariya though. Hariya was due for the shock of his life later in the day; we’ll go on for the time being till we get to that point.

After another 100m or so, we figured the Julee Ella can’t be this higher up as none of the previous visitors mentioned anything about an alms hall. We turned around and got back to the alms hall to see a notice asking the visitors not to try to get to the hermitage as it will disturb their meditation. If you read my Gala Muduna & Wannimana Journey, you would have seen a similar thing we came across deep in the Knuckles with a very tall waterfall close to Kahatagahawela area.  We decided to turn around and keep an eye out for Julee Ella between the alms hall and Thambadola Ella. We got that right as we saw a faint signs of a footpath leading to the stream about 50m below the alms hall.

We took it and Hariya nearly fell headlong into the stream as the path and rocks were like an eel’s back. There was this sound very familiar to me by now and I realized the falls must be close and we maneuvered around the rocks and arrived at the Julee Ella shortly. She too had a nice and safe base pool and I had no way of talking Hariya out of his monthly bath. The water levels were abysmal but we enjoyed the cool water kissing our sweat-soaked bodies. The fish like everywhere else took a fancy of our feet and started their therapy on us, free of charge of course. Having enjoyed the calm and serene environment for some time we got out of the water and got back to the shop near the bridge where we parked the bike. The lady at the shop was really good and said the Thambadola Ella is also called Rideevita Ella. There was this guy who was distributing things to the shop and talked to us very enthusiastically sharing what he knew. He said that there are some nice waterfalls and read out a list, but we had seen everything except one or two from his list and he looked as if we had nothing else to do. He told us to carry on with the Kurupita road as it’ll join up with the Kalawana road close to Lathpandura and it suited us quite well as our next stop was Morapitiya passing Lathpandura and Baduraliya.

The beginning of the path

The beginning of the path

Please do this

Please do this

Nearly dried out

Nearly dried out

Goes downhill, full of rocks

Goes downhill, full of rocks

Footpath

Footpath

Through the pine trees

Through the pine trees

Grand colors

Grand colors

Thambadola Ella, base pool

Thambadola Ella, base pool

Not much water, popular bathing spot

Not much water, popular bathing spot

Close up

Close up

Tiny

Tiny

Morning rays

Morning rays

Searching for the Julee Ella

Searching for the Julee Ella

We had bypassed the falls and now on the way towards Thundola Hermitage

We had bypassed the falls and now on the way towards Thundola Hermitage

Here's the alms hall and a request not to attempt to get to the hermitage

Here’s the alms hall and a request not to attempt to get to the hermitage

Decided to just walk a few meters uphill

Decided to just walk a few meters uphill

The path is well paved due to the existent of hermitage

The path is well paved due to the existent of hermitage

Another hut found on the way

Another hut found on the way

Not sure if it's edible

Not sure if it’s edible

Turned around and looking for the Julee Ella when we reached here. Taek the left turn to the water

Turned around and looking for the Julee Ella when we reached here. Taek the left turn to the water

Here we are

Here we are

Nothing much to see

Nothing much to see

Full of rocks but very little water

Full of rocks but very little water

The base pool

The base pool

Lovely

Lovely

Bala Ella & Maha Ella

We as per that salesman’s instructions, turned right towards Kurupita at the turn off (left will take you back to Polgampola) and joined the main Kalawana road at Bellana East close to Lathpandura. Turning right towards Kalawana, we road past Lathpandura and Baduraliya then arrived at Morapitiya. We turned to the right just after the Morapitiya Bridge to the Morapitiya-Mahawakanda road. This is the very same road that leads to the Mara Kapu Ella but there’s a Y junction you’ll come across about 1km into the road. The left is for Mara Kapu Ella and you have to take the right hand road that goes past Morapitiya tea factory. The road conditions are terrible after the factory and you shouldn’t drive in a car. Ideally, hire a tuk-tuk at Morapitiya junction or I’ll give you an alternative at the end which will help you to get closer to the falls.

Let’s for the time being stick to this. We road in this road for nearly 3-4km, the last two are simply impossible. Go straight without turning to right or left. You will cross two water streams (I guess my memory is good). One will go right across the room, no bridge or bokkuwa but the other will have a temporary bridge with 2-3 concrete cylinders used to take the water across. This area before the bridge is called Mahawakanda and beyond that is Kudumiriya. Go right up to Kudumiriya, which is technically the end of the road with a family cemetery to the left and two houses to the right. We stopped the bike here and asked the directions from the people at those two houses. We took the footpath between the two houses and crossed the Maguru River and arrived at the Aluth Mawatha.

This is the alternative route I told you about. If you are coming from Baduralia side, about 600m before the Morapitiya junction, there’s a road to your right called Aluth Mawatha. There’s also a signage saying “Piyumantha Rest” and you can take this road all the way up to where you crossed the river. They said this Aluth Mawatha is in better condition than the Mahawakanda road but I can’t be sure as we didn’t use it. Having crossed the Maguru River and reaching Aluth Mawatha, we turned left and walked probably close to a km till we reached a mud-walled house to our right and a better one above that. It looks like the end of the road but it’s not. The river is to your left all this time along with tea patches running parallel to the road.

Now is the time to cross it again to the other bank. If you look across the river close to that mud-walled house, you can see there’s a crossing made rudimentary by using rocks. We crossed the river to the other end and turned sharply to the right, which is upstream in layman’s terms. This is a very tiny footpath and there are a couple of them going away from the river as well but they are not for you. You must follow the footpath close to the water for another 600-800m. To your left is the tea patch and if you’re lucky, there will be people working on them making it easy to find the exact spot to get into the river. We were lucky as there were two couples working but if there is no one, nothing to worry coz I’ve given some pictures with landmarks for you to figure out the exact location. However, be warned: you shouldn’t attempt this by on your own, not recommended at all. I guess it goes for all the hikes and journeys. You must have at least one other person with you as you don’t know what to expect on those mysterious and unknown places.

You will see a clear path downhill to the river after 600-800m to your right. This will get you to a spot in between Bala Ella and Maha Ella. Go downhill about 100m, you can see the Bala Ella. Go uphill about 150-200m, it’ll be the Maha Ella. Simple as that. Again be careful as the rocks are very slippery. We got to both Bala Ella and Maha Ella without a problem thanks to the pinpoint directions provided by the people at those two houses. Bala Ella is not taller than 6ft but very wider, say about 10-15ft. On the other hand, Maha Ella was nearly 20ft tall and as much wider. She had a nice but very deep base pool, especially to the left. The right hand side part was not so deep but if you want to go for a bath, be sure to stick to the right hand side. It’s better not to get into water in the first place if you can’t swim. You don’t want to get yourself killed and give way to a media circus, do you?

Well Hari wanted to go for another dip but the looming dark clouds didn’t do anything to appeal me so I let him bathe while I was ready to put on the rain coat and protect our electronic devices should it rain but they went away leaving us in peace.

At the end we crossed the river

At the end we crossed the river

They were playing

They were playing

The crossing to the other side

The crossing to the other side

Hari on the other side, on Aluth Mawatha. Go to the left

Hari on the other side, on Aluth Mawatha. Go to the left

Here's the crossing again through the water. Note the mud house

Here’s the crossing again through the water. Note the mud house

Re-crossing to the other bank; turn to your right as soon as you do that

Re-crossing to the other bank; turn to your right as soon as you do that

The path through the trees, the river is to your right

The path through the trees, the river is to your right

Further along

Further along

Came to this opening and go along the river some more

Came to this opening and go along the river some more

Another tea plot, continue the walk

Another tea plot, continue the walk

The path is not visible due to tea bushes but walk along at the edge

The path is not visible due to tea bushes but walk along at the edge

One of the rare looks at the river below

One of the rare looks at the river below

Remember the landmark, here you have to go downhill to the water

Remember the landmark, here you have to go downhill to the water

Finally at the water

Finally at the water

Here's tiny Bala Ella

Here’s tiny Bala Ella

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

From the front, not so high

From the front, not so high

Water levels are not too bad

Water levels are not too bad

Looking downwards

Looking downwards

To the side

To the side

The stream uphill

The stream uphill

Time to go looking for the big sister

Time to go looking for the big sister

Slippery walk

Slippery walk

Just before the Maha Ella

Just before the Maha Ella

Rocky pools everywhere

Rocky pools everywhere

Would've been great had there been more water

Would’ve been great had there been more water

Closer

Closer

The bottom

The bottom

The clear base pool, it's very deep to the right

The clear base pool, it’s very deep to the right

Getting dark and gloomy

Getting dark and gloomy

There she is

There she is

Downhill journey

Downhill journey

Time to say good bye

Time to say good bye

Hari trying to maneuver like a monkey

Hari trying to maneuver like a monkey

The turn off to Aluth Mawatha, note the landmarks

The turn off to Aluth Mawatha, note the landmarks

Sudu Kanda Mini Falls

Well this was sheer luck. However getting back to those two houses where we had left our bike, we were very thirsty and wanted to refill our water bottle. There were a group of ladies in front having a chat the way they do at villages when we came back.

An old lady asked if we managed to find the falls and we said we did. As usual, women being women, they wanted the list of questions they had in mind answered for which we duly obliged. When they were satisfied that old lady asked Hari, pointing at me, “Did you come with your son?”. I couldn’t help laughing like a madman; this was simply crazy for her to take Hariya to be my father’s age. I was so tired but hearing this all the tiredness vanished and I wish I had taken a pic of Hariya’s face when she asked that.

He was beamingly answering all the questions when this came out of nowhere and all the others started giggling having seen me laugh. Other ladies felt sorry and it made Hariya mad as hell. Anyhow they gave us a tip when I asked if the Maha Ella was called Sudu Kanda Ella, they said, it’s not and the Sudu Kanda Ella is in fact in Mahawalakanda. I felt intrigued and decided to go find it on our way back. Afterwards, having refilled our water bottle, we got back on the road while they were still trying to stifle their giggles. Hariya rode like a mad bull despite me trying to calm him down. However, not even Tony, Sheham, Atha or Ana has ever been faced with a question like this so naturally you get angry.

We reached the bridge with cylinders, (now if you’re wondering what bridge is that, I’ll give you a clue. Press ctrl+F on your keyboard and then type “cylinders”, the search will take you to where you need to be) now supposing you know where I am, this is the boundary between Kudumiriya and Mahawalakanda. Passing the bridge, we stopped by to ask a nearby house for directions and having checked we were not on a some secret mission, a person told us to climb up along the water stream about half a km to see the Sudu Kanda Ella. Hari was reluctant but I didn’t wanna miss out this beautiful lady having come so close. We walked uphill parallel to the water stream and got down to it. Then it was sheer climbing uphill maneuvering through water and slippery rocks which was so tough.

We hadn’t had anything after lunch and it wasn’t gonna help our cause. After about 300m of hard work, Hari sat down complaining he was feeling faintish maybe due to lack of food. But, thinking back, it might even have been that lady’s remarks that made him feel dizzy. However I decided to let him rest a bit and go ahead to see if there was this Sudu Kanda Ella. The going was so tough and after 200m or so I decided to return to Hari but found he’d after all followed me slowly. From there we got a bit upstream and saw a somewhat higher rock which was wide as well. Still I saw no sign of anything to fit the bill “Waterfall”. Maybe there was more to climb up but the steep rock that blocked the water stream discouraged us going any further and it was getting dark too. Thankfully there was this tiny falls about 20m below the rock which I called Sudu Kanda Mini Falls. She was as tall as Thambadola Ella and we had to be content with her.

Then came the million dollar question, “How on earth are we going back?”. It took us best part of an hour to reach this point and would certainly have taken even more downtown journey. Time was running out fast and we had to find an alternative. We decided to climb up the forest patch to our right when we were facing downhill. Hari was up for it and it was nearly 150ft climb through the forest and then tea to reach a road that took us back to our bike. We were exhausted and rode to Morapitiya looking for something to eat. After some short eats and plain tea we headed towards Baduraliya searching for Raja Maruna Ella. But not before stopping to check the alternative route to Bala Ella and Maha Ella.

The house where you have to get down to the water

The house where you have to get down to the water

Great flowers

Great flowers

Got down to the river

Got down to the river

Tiny cascades all around

Tiny cascades all around

Where's this falls?

Where’s this falls?

More to go

More to go

Close to the Mini Falls

Close to the Mini Falls

Cave like near that

Cave like near that

This kinda blocked the whole river and wonder if a fall can be created here when the water levels are high.

This kinda blocked the whole river and wonder if a fall can be created here when the water levels are high.

No going beyond this

No going beyond this

Base pool crystal clear

Base pool crystal clear

Sudu Kanda Mini Falls is about 50m below the big rock

Sudu Kanda Mini Falls is about 50m below the big rock

Hitting the base in two segments

Hitting the base in two segments

The base pool

The base pool

One of the fellas met on the way

One of the fellas met on the way

Remains of, probably a bull or a cow

Remains of, probably a bull or a cow

The path we found was even more challenging, you can see the slight blue in the form of Hariya downhill

The path we found was even more challenging, you can see the slight blue in the form of Hariya downhill

Gosh, we have to climb up

Gosh, we have to climb up

What to do Napuru Kalata?

What to do Napuru Kalata?

Sharp pointers

Sharp pointers

Looks like Gotukola but apparently not

Looks like Gotukola but apparently not

Failed Attempt at Raja Maruna Ella

I was torn apart whether to put this or not as we couldn’t actually see the falls but decided to do it nevertheless as it’ll help future travelers finding the place with ease saving precious time. I have faced situations where we had to waste so much time to find something out because we didn’t know exactly where it is located or haven’t been able to find the proper directions. You must have experienced the same thing like me. How many times have you wondered if you had the proper directions? Well I have wondered many times. That is one reason I try to give as much directions and clues possible in my reports so that it will help others plan their journeys easily managing the precious time. I hope others will do the same because it will give up-to-date directions.

We might feel why bother with the directions or all the details as it was there in one of the reports but it might be an old report. The directions and details must have been changed so much. There may be easier ways to get to those places now than before, which is why it is crucial we update those things for others. Ok, I’ll get back to the story in hand. We carried on towards Baduraliya and stopped by a roadside shop to ask for directions when I noticed nearly 1ft long bunch of bananas in the shop. The lady said they were the famous “Nethrappalam” and I wanted to taste it coz I had never eaten them before. They were not even fully ripe but we shared a banana with Halapa. Well it didn’t taste any different, maybe not being fully ripe, but the price made my head spin. She said it was going for 200/- each but said she’d take 200/- for both the banana and the halapa. Gosh, we were nearly made penniless by that single banana. What would have happened if we had one each? Hari said that we were robbed in broad daylight, which might have been the case.

About 1.5km from Morapitiya junction towards Baduraliya, you have to turn left onto the Hedigalla road. Go on this road for about 2.5km till you reach a bend with a by road to your left. I’ve given a pic of it. This is the Hedigalla estate road which is after 500m or so is not in good shape. Go along this road for about 1.5km till u reach a Kovil (around midway, there will be a junction with a by road to the left with a sign saying “Manager’s Bungalow”, please ignore this and travel straight). You’ll notice close to the kovil the road is concreted. Just passing this kovil there will be a gravel road to the right and take it. It’s called Batahena road. The condition is not so good but surprisingly, after a couple of hundred meters, it’ll be well concreted and go straight till the end of concrete (about 0.8km) and turn left onto another gravel and terrible road that goes uphill.

After 1.2km, there’s a by road to the left bordering a rubber plantation. This is about 100m in length and at the end is a house and a nicely done Budu Medura that can easily be seen from the road. Take it or the path through the rubber plantation next to the road. You will go past tea cultivation and beyond that is the stream where the Raja Maruna Ella is. Unfortunately we had a tough time finding the right place, having wasted nearly 40 precious minutes we finally found it and reached the stream but had no clue whether to go upstream or downstream.

It was getting dark and the rain looked imminent. The light was so bad even if we found the falls; it’d have made the pics not so good. We both went upstream about 200m; we came across several cascades but nothing resembling the Raja Maruna Ella. I knew it was hopeless and dangerous to try to find it at the time, so very reluctantly decided to call it a day. However we figured in the end, having heard a familiar sound of a waterfall, Raja Maruna Ella to be downstream about 200-300m away from where we reached the water. We were so close yet so far. I guess that’s the life, we have to learn to give up when it seems not favorable otherwise the repercussions would be hazardous. It’s something I’ve learned thanks to my old gang, now Hariya too a part of it thanks to the proper identification by that lady.

1ft-long Nethrappalam

1ft-long Nethrappalam

The turn off to Hedigalla Estate

The turn off to Hedigalla Estate

Note the sign

Note the sign

Here's the turn off to the house and the road

Here’s the turn off to the house and the road

The road to the house

The road to the house

Just next to the road is the rubber plot and this path that will also lead to the water stream

Just next to the road is the rubber plot and this path that will also lead to the water stream

A hut along the path through the rubber plot

A hut along the path through the rubber plot

If you go through the house, here's the turn to go down the pallam to the stream

If you go through the house, here’s the turn to go down the pallam to the stream

The Budu Medura

The Budu Medura

Gorgeous colors

Gorgeous colors

Planted around the Budu Medura

Planted around the Budu Medura

Some more

Some more

At the water stream, we wrongly went upstream

At the water stream, we wrongly went upstream

Nothing but shallow pools like these

Nothing but shallow pools like these

"Enough is enough, let's come another day", said Hari.

“Enough is enough, let’s come another day”, said Hari.

Well folks, there ends my 9th episode of Tour de Waterfalls. I hope you enjoyed this as much as others. The episode number 10 is also in the works and should come online soon.

If I’m lucky enough, I’ll be able to do one or two more episodes this year. Just wish me good luck to achieve that. I guess I’ve reached one of my two-year old dreams by now. That was to visit 200 waterfalls in Sri Lanka. I’ve 100+ waterfalls in my FB page by now and I’m sure the total tally has crossed that magic number by now.

It’s always a great pleasure to see waterfalls in full flow and very sad to see them being killed for those lousy mini hydro power projects. Well, I’ll leave you to think about it further.

This is Sri signing off for now. Keep exploring this wonderful country, help protect the Mother Nature and more importantly take care of yourself. It’s important you get back in one piece to share your experience with us.

Cheers,

Sri…

Never Ending Passion Goes on Its Merry Way – Tour de Waterfalls 10…

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Year and Month 28 Sep, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Hasitha, and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Car
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent up to 4.00pm, there after gloomy and heavy rains…
Route Maharagama->Kottawa->Imaduwa via E-01->Akuressa->Pitabaddara->Deniyaya via Kotapola->Pallegama->Back to Kotapola->Kirilipana->Kakundeniya->Bengamuwa->Pasgoda->Matara->Maharagama.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • Leech protection is recommended but not that required.
    • Take measures to protect the environment.
    • Unfortunately most of these water sources are not safe for drinking purposes. So take some drinking water with you.
    • You can also check the Video Journey here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya folks and as promised here I am with the 10th episode of my waterfall tour. I hope you enjoyed the Tour 9 and this will complement the growing collection nicely. With this the total number of tours will hit the double digit mark. Well, let’s get down to business right away.

Having come across one of Niroshana’s report, I wanted to go see the waterfalls in Matara district.  What better person to keep company than Hasi, who was born and bred in Matara and knows the place like the back of his hand. When I put my suggestion to him, he readily agreed and we set off in the dawn of 28th Sep.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Hakgedi Ella, Kananke.
  2. Kandedola Ella, Pitabeddara.
  3. Kannadimulla Ella, Kannadimulla.
  4. Ethamala Ella, Kosnilgoda.
  5. Hathmale Ella, Pallegama.
  6. Kotapola aka Thiruwana Ella, Kosmodara.
  7. Ketawala Ella, Ketawala.

Hakgedi Ella

We took the E01 from Kottawa and were doing 100kmph while the sun as usual started his morning painting rituals. Just like waterfalls, sunrise and sunset are two other things that I never seem to get tired of, no matter how many times I witness it. It’s a whole lot different each and every time, trust me on that. The white cotton wool like clouds reflected the morning rays while sun appeared over rubber plantations and tiny hills to our left. Hasi had been busy in the weekend watching waterfalls as he’d been to 11 of them in and around Bulathkohupitiya, the day before. I wish I could have joined him for that too even though I have been to them before.

We took the Imaduwa entrance and planned our journey. The waterfalls were located so far apart, unlike many other places e.g. Bulathkohupitiya, and it took us a long time to visit them. Passing Polwatta River and entering Kananke, you should be able to go see the first of the attractions of the day, Hakgedi Ella. Hasi had his tab with him and it helped us throughout the day finding the locations.

We decided to go to the top of Matara district along Imaduwa-Akuressa-Pitabeddara-Deniyaya road and then come down the Deniyaya-Urubokka-Pasgoda-Mulatiyana-Kamburupitiya almost making a full circle around Matara district. To reach the Hakgedi Ella, go along Imaduwa-Akuressa road and just passing the Kudake bus stop turn left to Polhena-Gallala road. There had been a signpost but been removed during the road construction and nobody had thought it’s important to put it back.

Travel along this road and from the first Y junction take the right that runs through a paddy field. The road is in excellent condition. Along this road you’ll come to a by road to your right that is concrete and goes uphill called Polhena-Idurupathwala road. There is a signage put up by typical politicians’ way. Stop right there coz you have to turn back. You might be cursing me now for taking you passing the falls, right? Unfortunately this is the best landmark I could find and don’t worry you haven’t gone a long way passing the falls. Turn around and walk back about 50m (not much, huh?) keeping your eyes open. There is a tiny footpath to your left goes across the marshland but not too long. Take this and it will run straight to Hakgedi Ella.

This is said to have a treasure hidden, a similar story like Abarana Ella in Ambalantota-Nonagama road. Again she is about 3-4ft in height but the water level was rich due to the rains. We spent about 15 mins with her while the bleary-eyed villagers came awake to find strangers have invaded their lands. We then turned around and headed up the road towards Akuressa and then Pitabeddara in search of Kandedola Ella.

The bridge across Polwatta River at Kananke

The bridge across Polwatta River at Kananke

Very old one

Very old one

Morning rays on Polwatta River

Morning rays on Polwatta River

Hasi playing the traffic police, here's where you have to turn

Hasi playing the traffic police, here’s where you have to turn

Got the Sudu Pulli disease

Got the Sudu Pulli disease

Water flow of Hakgedi Ella

Water flow of Hakgedi Ella

There she is, nothing much you might feel

There she is, nothing much you might feel

Closer with sunlight

Closer with sunlight

Closest we could get

Closest we could get

Trying every setting

Trying every setting

Kandedola Ella

We were very hungry but couldn’t find any shop to eat anything till Pitabeddara town. There was a nice shop and was had a hearty meal of rice and curry. Then we took the Deniyaya road till we reached Athu Ela Bridge. Apparently we had gone past Kandedola Bridge and had to turn around close to Kosnilgoda where the turn off to Ethamala Ella is. Unfortunately, like the Hakgedi Ella, the signpost had been removed in the road construction and forgotten ever since. I’m gonna tell you an alternative route to Ethamala Ella now. Passing Athu Ela Bridge, there is a downhill path to your right with a sign saying “Nil-Wella Estate”. Take this and you will have to travel probably 2-3km but the road is in terrible condition as per what we heard. I’ll tell you what we did later.

We turned around to first see the Kandedola Ella and reached a newly built bridge passing Athu Ela Bridge which is long and huge. If you are coming from Pitabeddara, Kandedola Bridge is located before the Athu Ela Bridge. There’s the Kandedola tea factory to your right as soon as you go past the bridge. Stop here and there’s a footpath leading to the stream to the left of the bridge at the beginning of the bridge (when you’re coming from Pitabeddara). Take this and carefully climb up the stream about 100m. It’ll be so tough when the water levels are high and raining but we had none of them.

Still, it was very tough to go up but after what felt like an eternity we reached the base of Kandedola Ella. She had very little water despite the rains recently; remember what I told you about diminishing water retention capabilities. It has affected this too. She is around 20ft in height and has two parts with a twist in the middle reminding me of Meddakanda aka Dodam Gallena Ella. After 10-15 mins we made the return journey through those huge rock boulders and got back on the road.

Hiding beauty

Hiding beauty

Kandedola Bridge

Kandedola Bridge

Took to the stream to go uphill

Took to the stream to go uphill

Not so easy, especially if the rains are there

Not so easy, especially if the rains are there

Finally reached the base pool

Finally reached the base pool

Not much water but she looks super

Not much water but she looks super

Sliding along the rocky wall

Sliding along the rocky wall

The sun appeared out of nowhere

The sun appeared out of nowhere

The top

The top

Getting down was even trickier

Getting down was even trickier

Kannadimulla Ella

While we went towards Pitabeddara passing the Kandedola Bridge to turn the vehicle and ask the directions for Kandedola Ella, we were told that there is another falls borne in the Nilwala river below. She was falling to our right when going towards Deniyaya in parallel way but way below the road level, around 150-200ft below. We went back to the shop we got directions about 100m towards Pitabeddara from the Kandedola Bridge. We could barely see her in the distance and had plenty of water so decided it’d be worth taking a look.

According to the shop owner, one can get down to the river through the Kandedola tea factory (always supposing they’ll let you) and cross the river to the other end and walk up to get a better view. However risen water levels prevented us from doing that (we didn’t wanna take an undue risk) and chose the alternative. We drove back to Pitabeddara town and turned to the left which is the Pitabeddara-Pasgoda main road. After about 1km you will reach a Y junction with a school in front and turn to the left once again. You will reach Dankoluwa about another 1-2km and at the junction with a temple to your right the main Pasgoda road will take a sharp right hand turn.

You have to travel straight along Siyambalagoda road till you reach the Kannadimulla School. It’s about 2km from the Dankoluwa junction. You will see the school to your left with a right hand bend of the road at the end of the school premises. Stop here and there’s a gravel path to your left bordering the school and that’s what you gotta take. We checked the directions from the house near here and the uncle and aunty who were working in the tea patch were very polite and talked to us in a very friendly manner. They offered to look after the car while we’re gone and said that we could go see Ethamala Ella from here instead from Kosnilgoda along Deniyaya road. He said the road is not so good for a car and offered to find a tuk-tuk for us as well. Unbelievable hospitality, this is the typical Sri Lankan way which the foreigners find so unique. They go out of their way to help others, especially outsiders but most of the outsiders take them for granted and do so much damage to their villages making all the travelers being looked down by the village folks. So please seek their support whenever you can but we have to be very polite and respect them.

We went down the gravel road till it ended at a house but there was a path just before the last house to our right through a tea patch bordered by coconut trees. Take this and it will take you right down to the Nilwala river and about another 50-60m is the falls. She had no name so upon Hasi’s suggestion we named her after the village as we always do “Kannadimulla Ella”. She was wide but not so high and had two short parts totaling about 10-12ft in height. We spent some time with her and got back to where we left the car. As soon as we got back, that uncle offered to cut some king coconuts for us and our tongues were practically hanging out by then and gladly accepted it. It was like a magic drink (Remember the Magic Arishta in Asterisks?) and we drank it in one long pull.

He then told us that we could from this side get very close to the falls and didn’t need a tuk-tuk. He had one and could easily have made some easy money off us but he wasn’t ready to fall into such a lower level. I was worried if they would ask the same question that lady asked Hariya (read Tour 9 for details) but they didn’t. However the sad news is the same people who were trying to build a mini hydro power plant at Ethamala Ella is going to build one here blocking the river above Kannadimulla Ella. Those buggers are facing a court case for the Ethamala Ella project and I hope the court won’t let them destroy that gorgeous falls. Having thanked them profusely, we got underway to go see Ethamala Ella.

Here's the turn off, take the right hand side road

Here’s the turn off, take the right hand side road

The path is shaded and full of grass

The path is shaded and full of grass

Here we are

Here we are

Borne out of Nilwala River

Borne out of Nilwala River

Close up

Close up

Looks good

Looks good

Don't know what he was trying to take

Don’t know what he was trying to take

The downhill journey of Nilwala

The downhill journey of Nilwala

Parting shot

Parting shot

The tea patch

The tea patch

Not ripe yet

Not ripe yet

Gorgeous colors

Gorgeous colors

Ethamala Ella

We continued along the road further up from Kannadimulla. About 1-2km from here there’s a turn off to the left with a bridge across Nilwala river. Turn to this; you will really have to keep your eyes open to find this as it’s easy to miss. As soon as you cross the bridge the road will fork into two. The left hand side road is the one that would lead to Deniyaya road close to Kosnilgoda. You have to turn right and go along this for about 1-2km more. The river will be to your right but this road is not in good condition, especially for a car. We saw the huge steel pipes that had brought to divert the water to the power plant, the diameter was about 4ft and if used, they will kill the falls. Later in the day we saw the fate of Kotapola Ella due to the use of these huge pipes. Towards the end of the road while the river takes a sharp bend to the left you will come to a concrete paved part of the road with a sharp bend to the left that goes uphill.

You gotta leave the road and go straight along the footpath parallel to the river. In about 100m, you will be able to see the mighty Ethamala Ella. She was in full flow and looked simply amazing. It was a real pity those heartless buggers trying to kill such a beauty. We took our sweet little time with her and then very reluctantly left her hoping she won’t face a tragic end.

The killing machines of the waterfalls

The killing machines of the waterfalls

On the way, took a peep at the river

On the way, took a peep at the river

Tiny falls

Tiny falls

Plenty of water here

Plenty of water here

Here we are

Here we are

And there she is

And there she is

Up close

Up close

The top of her

The top of her

The base pool looks dangerous

The base pool looks dangerous

Downstream

Downstream

The full package

The full package

Cheerio...

Cheerio…

Hathmale Ella

Leaving Atha Mala Ella behind we reached the Pitabeddara and passing Kandedola, Athu Ela, Kosnilgoda, Morawaka and Kotapola arrived at Deniyaya and turned left in front of the police station towards Pallegama. At Pallegama, if you have time, you could turn right onto Mederipitiya and go on to Pitadeniya but I’ve been there and time was soon running out. We went straight along Beliaththakumbura road till we reached the Hathmale Ella turn off to our right. The road is also called Hathmale Ella road and there is a small signage there. It’s about 2-2.5km drive on this road to the Hathmale Ella. You can check my previous report on Pitadeniya & Hathmale Ella here.

The road is done with those bricks that used to do the pavements in Colombo but not all the way. We reached the falls after struggling along the uneven road and decided to walk the last 500m or so. Gin Ganga was rising steadily and we reached the entrance to the falls that is done with steps. Hearing the familiar M6 noise, we practically ran down the steps and whoa, she was majestic and I couldn’t take my eyes off her. Already there was a group of people having a bath in the lower pool but it was no problem for us.

She had more water than the last time but not much. The whole of Gin Ganga falls making this gorgeous girlie with 7 parts thus the name Sathmale aka Hathmale Ella. We spent a long time, especially as this was Hasi’s first time to this grand place and after a while started climbing up. At the top, I saw a path that runs through to the top of her and decided to go for a quick look. It was really mesmerizing to see how the water makes never ending tiny cascades and whirlpools before falling down. After a few snaps, I got back up and followed Hasi to the car.

The road towards Hathmale parallel to Gin Ganga

The road towards Hathmale parallel to Gin Ganga

Muddy due to rains

Muddy due to rains

Here's the star

Here’s the star

The top of her

The top of her

And one of the 7 parts

And one of the 7 parts

One of the base pools

One of the base pools

Absolutely lost for words

Absolutely lost for words

One long lower part

One long lower part

Going back but wanna see her from the top

Going back but wanna see her from the top

Just got down to the top

Just got down to the top

Here's the path that make the waterfall

Here’s the path that make the waterfall

The top is like a cascading pool

The top is like a cascading pool

Just before creating one of the most beautiful falls in SL

Just before creating one of the most beautiful falls in SL

Finally making the big one at the end

Finally making the big one at the end

Going back

Going back

Kotapola aka Thiruwana Ella

We got back to Hathmale Ella turn off and stopped for a snack. Hasi hadn’t forgotten his gastric pill which is a must for journeys with me. We reached Kotapola and in front of the school turn left onto the Urubokka road. About 3km from here you will reach the newly built Kosmodara Bridge. About 100-200m before it to your left is a carpeted but narrow road that goes uphill. Take this and like many by roads you will notice the carpet layer was only for the show and only goes for a short distance.

You will reach a Y junction with a concrete paved road to the right goes downhill. Take that but be warned as the concrete will disappear after 100m and the road will be terrible. When we asked the road from a house here, one boy volunteered to show us the path. We left the car and took to the road and another boy had joined the group. We walked down and reached an abandoned community hall to our left. We walked past it and the road suddenly took a sharp right bend and it was the end. There was the hydro power plant here which I felt like bombing.

Walk straight and after the road ends take a sharp right that goes through tea bushes. It’s more like a drain than a path but can easily walk one at a time. A short walk will take you to the pipeline that runs to the power plant from the top of the falls, the same 4ft-diameter one. From here we could see the nearly dried out Kotapola Ella, not because lack of water but due to this stupid power plant. This is a huge waterfall, with a height over 100ft and nearly 40-50ft in with. She was more like a little sister of Rathna Ella. But there was nothing to see save for a tiny streaks of water along the rocky surface. Another sad ending to what once had been a grand lady.

I was sad and fuming with anger but what to do. We left and reached the car. Giving those two boys some money we headed towards Urubokka searching for Ketawala, Watawala Namal Ella and the time had just gone 4.30pm.

The turn off, take the downhill

The turn off, take the downhill

At the end of the road, fallow the concrete path and then turn right at the tree

At the end of the road, fallow the concrete path and then turn right at the tree

The killing machine of the Kotapola Falls

The killing machine of the Kotapola Falls

The gigantic water tunnel

The gigantic water tunnel

Doesn't look good

Doesn’t look good

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Just look at the destruction

Just look at the destruction

She would've been one of the best had the water wasn't diverted

She would’ve been one of the best had the water wasn’t diverted

Abysmal looking base

Abysmal looking base

Nearly 4ft diameter

Nearly 4ft diameter

Abandoned

Abandoned

Ketawala Ella

Passing Kirilapana and Beralapanathara we arrived at Kekundeniya just before Urubokka. Take the left road at Kekundeniya towards Ketawala. It’s carpeted up to 1-1.5km but beyond that is in terrible condition. We stopped there and inquired about the Namal Ella from the shop but they simply shook their heads. There was a tuk-tuk and some people in it but they didn’t know about her either.

The Watawala Namal Ella is near the Ketawala School which was another good 1-2km from there. We had no time to go explore and the light began fading away pretty fast and heavy clouds brought a drizzle making matters worse. Then someone claimed there is a fall close by and we decided to go see her in the tuk-tuk. This is the left gravel road just before the shop and it was so terrible we kept going up and down inside the tuk-tuk.

After a rollercoaster ride we reached a house belonging to Siripala mama and our tuk-tuk driver Gunasena mama went to ask him where this fall was located. It was raining and thankfully we had our umbrella. Siripala mama came and one look at us should have been enough to realize that we were crazy in our head but he led the way without beating about the bush.

The path was so wet and slippery, the leeches were in numbers and rain was falling heavily but all those were the least of our problems. We were on a mission. Finally we reached a point where we got a view of the top of this fall. She wasn’t huge, about 15ft in height but surprisingly water levels were fairly low. However we had to get down to the stream and climb a little up to get a clear view but getting down was tricky, especially for Hasi.

Siripala mama followed by Gunasena mama got to the stream slipping down the slope. Asking Hasi to wait on top, I followed them and managed to get to the water without trouble. Then literally crawled along the rocks to the base of the falls and took some pictures while Gunasena mama provided cover for the camera with his sarong. After that we returned to Siripala mama’s house. While we were removing dozens of leeches off our legs Siripala mama apologized for not offering any tea. I was moved by their genuine hospitality and having thanked profusely left for the car.

But not before he told us about the Namal Ella and another falls in Pattigala passing Kekundeniya along Boraluketihena road. However it was close to 6pm and we said we’d be back again to see them and others we missed. We reached the car and bid farewell to Gunasena mama.

Not much water despite rains

Not much water despite rains

Falls with a twist in the middle

Falls with a twist in the middle

The top

The top

And the bottom

And the bottom

Side view

Side view

All in all it was a great day but we had to spend quite a long time trying to find some of the falls which was very unfortunate. There are about 5-6 more waterfalls in Matara & Hambanthota districts that we’ll have to visit.

This is the 10th of my unique Tour de Waterfalls and hopefully will be able to do a few more in the foreseeable future.

Well, thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed this episode like the rest of them. Keep exploring and help protect the environment.

 

Take care!

Ciao,

Sri…

Beyond My Wildest Dreams – Dayagama Trail…

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Year and Month 06 Oct 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Ana, Atha, Prasa and Me
Accommodation Ginihiriya Bungalow (Anderson Lodge), Horton Plains
Transport By SUV
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent up to 1pm, gloomy and rainy afterwards
Route Koswatte->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Hatton->Nanu Oya->Pattipola->Horton Plains by SUV and walk back and forth along Dayagama Trail.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
    • Ginihiriya Bungalow is located about 5km along Farr Inn-Ohiya Road at a very secluded and isolated place, not open to the main road like Maha Eliya Bungalow. You’ll have plenty of privacy and there aren’t many vehicles along Ohiya Road either. I guess nearly 75% of the tourists to HP come from Pattipola Entrance.
    • You can book most of these Wild Life Bungalows via online at https://dwc.lankagate.gov.lk/homeAction.action?lang=%2527en%2527 (Payments using Credit Cards or Debit Cards)
    • You can take a look at all the bungalows here. http://www.dwc.gov.lk/library/Bungalows.html
    • Charges of Ginihiriya Bungalow given below. http://www.dwc.gov.lk/library/ginihiriya_bangalow.html
    • The Bungalow can accommodate 10 Adults and has 4 Rooms. (2 Triple and 2 Double)
    • Hot Water is available but depends on the weather as it’s Solar-Powered. (The first night we had no hot water but was better on second night)
    • There’s electricity but Solar-Powered so don’t expect to be able to charge your electronic devices. Better carry your own Power Banks with you.
    • The caretaker Abeysinghe was very good and his cooking was good as well. There was another with him called Piyadasa.
    • You can check the Trail Guide here.
    • Hatton-Nanu Oya Road is good up to Radella Short Cut and beyond that is still under construction. There was an area where there were a few earth slips in this stretch. Better to avoid travelling in the night.
    • Please don’t feed the begging Sambar Deer at HP.
    • Check the Video of Agra Falls here.
    • Don’t leave polythene or garbage here and there. Take extreme caution to protect the environment.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Sri, that Kirigalpoththa trail you did” Ana opens up the conversation in his own style. “Yeah Ana”, I prompt him. “Is it too difficult?”, he doesn’t waste much time but gets to the bottom-line straight away. “Ayyo, it’s not so tough, even old Tony managed it with no problem. Only problem is it’s frequented by the leopard”. “We aren’t that lucky”, he replies through suppressed laughter.

That was only the beginning of a lengthy chat about the mighty Kirigalpoththa. Ana wanted to do it and I didn’t mind joining once again as Horton Plains is one place that is very dear to my heart. The prospect of walking through that heavenly place made me dream of our previous encounter. It was after the Rail Hike from Talawakele to Rosella that brought Ana into my, as many put it, the Old Gang. It was a 20+km journey that tested our stamina beyond limits.

Recently during our Journey to Kohonawala for the Wheelchair Donation, the Kirigalpoththa talk was revisited and we decided not to prolong it any further. So we set the dates for October and got busy with the preparations. Making the wildlife bungalows available for online reservation was a very good thing and it made the procedures so much easier. Even though I have visited HP well over a dozen times during the last 15 years, I had never been lucky enough to spend a night there. It was a big gap in my travel log and this was a god send. “I was seriously gonna spend not one but two nights in one of the most beautiful places on earth” I kept telling myself.

However Ana had booked the Ginihiriya Bungalow aka Anderson Lodge by mistake as we were originally planning to stay at Maha Eliya Bungalow. Looking back, I feel that mistake too was a god send as Ginihiriya is located in a very secluded place along Ohiya Road, about 5km before the Farr Inn. I’m sure you know that more than 80% of the tourists use the Pattipola Entrance when visiting the HP. Only a very few people use the Ohiya Entrance. As a result, Ginihiriya is not disturbed by the continuous stream of travelers and vehicles. Ginihiriya is built in such a place where it is not even visible from the road giving you all the privacy you want. A perfect place for a bungalow.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Kande Ela Reservoir & Ambewela Farm
  2. Dayagama Trail
  3. Agra Falls

We left for HP in the wee hours on 6th Oct and arrived at the viewing platform of Devon Ella. The light was still not so good but she had covered herself with a thick white blanket, leaving no room for us to take a look at this gorgeous girlie. The roar of the water falling 200+ft straight onto the rocks below was deafening making me want to stay till I the mist lifted. We savored our sandwiches here, breathing the invigorating mountain air that was coming from the 6th highest mountain off Kotagala, the Great Western. She was the one who started this hiking frenzy when Hari and I went to climb her nearly two years ago. That was a very nice looking bungalow to the left of the tea center in front of Devon platform and I was naturally curious. It had the hallmarks of colonial era and while munching on a sandwich I walked up to the gate and talked to the security and the gardener. They said it’s managed by the Richard Pieris Group, (the very same that manages the Fishing Hut). This too is a very good location for some quiet time.

Leaving after the breakfast we were soon getting closer to my beloved St. Claire and my heart soared with hopes as it always does, they were multiplied by the heavy rains that had fallen in the last couple of days. But, I was once again disappointed as she looked the typical abysmal self. The sorrow was so much I couldn’t even bear to stop and look at her. Recently the rafting industry in Kitulgala got a shock as well when the stupid powers-that-be came up with a smart plan to block the Kelani River around Kalugala building a similar failure like Upper Kotmale. When the people involved in rafting and tourism industry in and around Kitulgala protested against this, one senior fellow of the project had said that they would release water at certain times so that they can do the rafting then. What fools we have running things like these projects. Remember, they promised the same for St. Claire, but nobody knows how long they did that. All big fat lies, nothing else. The returns from the rafting and tourism around Kitulgala are so much greater than another failure like Upper Kotmale. If we’re to believe a word of them, they can kiss goodbye to rafting in Kitulgala very soon making thousands of people redundant.

The bungalow I told you about

The bungalow I told you about

Closer look

Closer look

The tea centre in front of Devon Viewing Platform, isolated

The tea centre in front of Devon Viewing Platform, isolated

Ready for the journey

Ready for the journey

Kande Ela & Ambewele Farm

The road was built up to Raddella short cut with carpet but beyond that is still under construction till the Ambewela turn off at the Nanu Oya Bridge. In this stretch occurred the recent earth slips blocking the road few times recently. In fact it has happened either side of our traveling dates. So avoid using this in the night and a low clearance vehicle will have some trouble passing this stretch, hopefully it will soon be finished, at least by the season in December. From the Ambewela turn off till some distance passing Pattipola is now well carpeted but the road is narrow so you need to be cautious about the speeding tuk-tuks, motor bikes and worst of all, milk lorries of the farm.

The windmills were very still as there was no wind. After a quick cuppa coffee we reached the Kande Ela Reservoir. It was like a wall mirror; the water was so still, there was not even a slight ripple in the water. We saw perfect reflections on the surface of water and it is a sight many dream about. There were, unfortunately, more structures built along the edge of the reservoir running towards the hills and trees destroying the beauty of the surrounding. You might be aware that there are two bungalows situated here. To the left is the old Irrigation Department Bungalow and beyond the water to your right is the newly built Forest Department Bungalow. The Kande Ela Park where you can walk along a 2-3km trail is also close by and it’s ideal for students. I did this trail some time ago all alone in the wee hours and the experience was a mixture of anxiety, soothing and relaxing. Check it out Here.

Never seen it so clear, better than a mirror

Never seen it so clear, better than a mirror

Perfect reflection

Perfect reflection

Towards the sluice gates

Towards the sluice gates

Up close

Up close

The full package

The full package

These weren't there before

These weren’t there before

Leaving this was so hard

Leaving this was so hard

Going for the morning session

Going for the morning session

Towards the Windmills, another hallmark of Ambewela Farm

Towards the Windmills, another hallmark of Ambewela Farm

Closer look

Closer look

Kande Ela Hill

Kande Ela Hill

Perfect morning

Perfect morning

Not a hint of rain

Not a hint of rain

Dayagama Trail

We got back on the road after another brief stay and enjoyed the lush greenery on either side. This road is something that you can’t get enough of no matter how many times you’ve traveled in it. Passing the fast urbanizing Pattipola we entered the isolated journey through the virgin forest. We were early so no traffic was there helping us enjoy the ride all the way to the ticket counter. We showed them our online receipts and were asked to get a vehicle permit that cost us Rs. 280/-. The officials were emphatic that we were not to get to the bungalow till 12 noon. They drilled it into us so much and we were wondering if there was something going there. We then reached the Farr Inn and went into a poorly lit office and showed our permit. “You can’t go there till 12″, they said it for the umpteenth time and we solemnly nodded our agreement. “You can visit the World’s End till then” they added as an afterthought. We were relieved to get out of that dim hole and reached our vehicle to get ready for the first adventure of the journey, the scenic Dayagama Trail.

It’d been raining recently and there was a hint of more in the air. So we got ready with raincoats and umbrellas and were on our way. The thought of having to do such a beautiful trail with raincoats sickening and I was constantly asking the Mother Nature for clear weather at least till we were back. As soon as we started we came across a homeless Sambar Deer couple who were begging for anything from the passing vehicles. Already the traffic had increased tremendously and crossing the road was like Galle Road on a Monday morning. The Sambar couple kept nibbling at the grass but every time a vehicle was near wondered towards begging for something better than the grass. I hope people don’t feed them coz little did that Sambar couple knew they were gonna die of food poisoning or polythene consumption.

We soon passed the park warden’s bungalow and reached the head of the Dayagama trail. It’s easy to identify with a closed gate across the jeep track. The gate is in place to fend off the trespassing vehicles. We all posed for a group picture using a nearby tree trunk for a tripod. As soon as we entered the path, to our left was the 8th mile post. This confirmed the distance to Dayagama, 13km. However the downhill path was just over 5km till it ended at the tea estate and the Kovil. First 500-600m were badly damaged and you would need a very good 4WD with plenty of clearance to tackle this. After that, it was just a typical jeep track and the path was in better condition compared to the beginning.

For me, this was a longtime dream come true as I had wanted numerous times to do this trail over the years but found no way to achieve it. The whole journey was like walking through a hidden paradise. The number of people who attempt the Dayagama trail is negligible; I don’t think it will surpass the number of people who do the Kirigalpoththa trail let alone Thotupola. Most they do the circular trail and get enough of Horton Plains for the time being and return home. I’d say that the Dayagama trail is far easier and rewarding as well. About a km into the journey, we came across a Giant Squirrel colony. There were around 4-6 fellows, probably having a morning game of hide and seek. Surprisingly their black was more prominent compared to the ones found elsewhere, especially in dry zone. Even the white border looked cleaner than the others. However none of them was in the mood to pose for a picture and our waiting with pointed cameras only managed to bring the leaves and branches.

We were in very high spirits and made solid progress. The elevation was not so great and you won’t feel it that much. After a while we passed the 7th mile post and did the math mentally, just over 3km to go. You might have heard about the Agra Falls located near the perimeter of HP with the tea estate, however there weren’t many pictures or details about her and I badly wanted to go see this mysterious girl. The charcoal grey clouds kept threatening and looking menacingly at us but Mother Nature wouldn’t have any of it. She kept pushing them away from us but left a nice layer of clouds protecting us from the piercing sun. We kept chatting about until out of nowhere we came across the 6th mile post. Just a touch over a mile to go and we were elated. The stream we crossed around half way was now to our right and flowing down with a meditative sound which Ana wanted to record.

Some more walking gave us a distant view of the Dayagama tea factory through the trees and we were close to our target. Out of nowhere came the tall turpentine trees signaling the end of the trail. There is a Kovil just as we came out of the HP into the civilization. To our surprise, the tea pluckers were coming after their morning run and we heard the gong of the factory as well. As I was taking some pics of the tea pluckers there was a whole bunch of them coming and asking to be photographed. I was in a dilemma but had to satisfy their needs and took a few pics of them posing here and there. Then came the million dollar question, “Where’s the Agra Falls?”, we kept asking everyone but almost all didn’t realize what the devil we were referring to. However we managed to act and get the message across. They then just pointed downhill path and rapid fired a few hundred sentences in Tamil and we pretended we understood every mono syllable.

Ana, waiting patiently for the computer to spit out the vehicle permit

Ana, waiting patiently for the computer to spit out the vehicle permit

Isolated

Isolated

The pond at the entrance

The pond at the entrance

Here I am, the loving HP

Here I am, the loving HP

Already overflowing with vehicles

Already overflowing with vehicles

A common sight

A common sight

Felt ashamed at his greediness

Felt ashamed at his greediness

The wife was also keeping an eye on the passing vehicles

The wife was also keeping an eye on the passing vehicles

Finally resorted to known grass

Finally resorted to known grass

They had a huge lead on me

They had a huge lead on me

Near the trail head

Near the trail head

The closed gate

The closed gate

Perfect combination in the group

Perfect combination in the group

Maha Eliya in the distance

Maha Eliya in the distance

Ana and Prasa, leading from the front, you can see the decay in the road

Ana and Prasa, leading from the front, you can see the decay in the road

Very few of them

Very few of them

Plenty of these though

Plenty of these though

Misty Agra Bopath

Misty Agra Bopath

Millions of these

Millions of these

Very nice

Very nice

The path is good after the first 500-600m

The path is good after the first 500-600m

The dream team

The dream team

Some clear skies

Some clear skies

Artistic tree

Artistic tree

They were very tiny

They were very tiny

Easy to manage in a jeep

Easy to manage in a jeep

Water stream crossing the path

Water stream crossing the path

Very wide

Very wide

Not edible

Not edible

Nobody home

Nobody home

Dayagama tea factory in the distance

Dayagama tea factory in the distance

Lusty

Lusty

They are all over

They are all over

Beautiful colors

Beautiful colors

Lonely path

Lonely path

Some flowers too

Some flowers too

We're here

We’re here

The boundary

The boundary

They were the photogenic ones

They were the photogenic ones

Some dark clouds loom in the distance

Some dark clouds loom in the distance

Away they go for the work

Away they go for the work

Busy at work

Busy at work

Worth reading again and again

Worth reading again and again

Agra Falls

We followed the estate road downhill till we reached a note saying that Sambar and Leopard can be seen 500m up the road which means as soon as you enter the HP. We tried to ask the directions from the workers but none of them understood what we wanted to see. However, they kept pointing down the road and finally we hit the jackpot when we spoke to a couple of tea pluckers who were busily packing their stuff. She asked “Ungalukku Tamil Theriyama?” for that I said “Illai” and thankfully she asked “English Theriyuma” and I happily conceded “Kongngam Theriyum”.

She smiled and then gave the directions in fluent English, even showed us a short cut to go through the estate. By this Ana and Prasa had had enough walking and Atha and I decided to do the final push. We climbed down along the tailor-made footpath through the tea bushes. It was further 500-600m downhill when we got a look at the top of the falls through the tress some way to the right. From then, it was just finding the straightest path possible along the tea patch and we soon reached a good viewing place and spent about half hour enjoying the beauty of this hidden girlie.

The water levels were not fully up but what we saw was enough to embed her picture in our minds forever. The rain was imminent and we hurried back to avoid getting trapped amid the tea bushes. As we came out onto a clear path it started drizzling and I had the umbrella and Atha the raincoat. We reached Ana and Prasa who were waiting in a shed. It was time to walk back the way we had come, more than 6km.

The view towards the mountains, the range probably is just before the New Zealand Farm

The view towards the mountains, the range probably is just before the New Zealand Farm

They were leading the way

They were leading the way

Was getting gloomy

Was getting gloomy

The typical estate road

The typical estate road

State Workers' houses

State Workers’ houses

Feels scary

Feels scary

The shortcut

The shortcut

Plenty of them

Plenty of them

First glimpse

First glimpse

Getting closer

Getting closer

Not much water

Not much water

Upper part

Upper part

Wider view of the top

Wider view of the top

Middle

Middle

Parting shot

Parting shot

"Gosh, who's that?"

“Gosh, who’s that?”

The Yeti?

The Yeti?

Full of colors

Full of colors

Time to head back

Time to head back

Back to HP

We reached the Kovil to find out that they’ve cooked a Pongal Rice and there were many people savoring the dish and plenty of dogs waiting in anticipation. They got worked up as we walked up the path thinking we were there to rob them of their share of this delicious meal. The Poosari and the others offered us Pongal Rice and even blessed us painting the Pottu on our foreheads. An altogether completely difference experience.

We then started walking back and the rain gods smiled at us and pushed the rain towards Dayagama and Thalawakelle. Return journey was also great and we made good time to reach the vehicle but just as others were ahead of me, I saw a group of Sri Lankan Black Monkeys (Purple-Faced Langurs) and stopped to get a few pics of them as well. Then after a rubbery roti meal that nearly broke my jaw from the HP canteen we headed along the Ohiya Road towards our destination. Hurraaaaaaaah!!!, I’m gonna spend a night at HP after many years of pondering over.

The Pongal Rice distribution

The Pongal Rice distribution

Looking at hungrily

Looking at hungrily

First portion to the god

First portion to the god

For us

For us

The Kovil

The Kovil

Look at their foreheads

Look at their foreheads

Water drops

Water drops

Color combination

Color combination

Bunched together

Bunched together

Clear jeep track

Clear jeep track

Ana was running uphill

Ana was running uphill

"Paarata Bara Athu"

“Paarata Bara Athu”

Patterns

Patterns

Some clear blue skies too

Some clear blue skies too

Life on the dead

Life on the dead

Artistic

Artistic

Close to the end, look at the state of the road

Close to the end, look at the state of the road

So beautiful

So beautiful

Colors

Colors

Ana at the end of the trail, note the 8th mile post

Ana at the end of the trail, note the 8th mile post

Please follow this

Please follow this

Good bye Dayagama!

Good bye Dayagama!

Park Warden's Bungalow

Park Warden’s Bungalow

"Hey man!"

“Hey man!”

Playing hide and seek with me

Playing hide and seek with me

Looking for something to eat

Looking for something to eat

Ginihiriya Bungalow

We arrived at the Ginihiriya Bungalow which is located at a very secluded place. This is completely isolated and not visible to the main HP-Ohiya Road. There’s hot water and electricity but both solar-powered so don’t expect to charge your phones or other electronic equipment. It’s better to carry your own power banks. It has 4 rooms (2 triple and 2 double) with very good single beds. The caretaker Abeysinghe was a very good person and can cook well. There was another with him called Piyadasa who’s been there at Farr Inn for ages. The garden is full of Maha Bovitiya Plants that has a beautiful purple flower.

We settled at the bungalow while Ana giving the instructions to the caretakers as to how we need the meals for our stay. Gosh, I was really gonna spend a night at HP after all. I was very excited and didn’t even realize how cold it can get. The temperature dropped to 14 degrees by 6.00pm, (must’ve touched 10 towards the dawn) and I felt a chill run down my spine. We decided to take a walk towards the ticket counter while the preparation was being made. However, it felt so cold and the constant drizzling made it so difficult too and we decided to get back to the warmth of the bungalow. Ana had been in this in late 80s and few other times and was sad to see the current state of the bungalow compared to the good old days.

The dinner was being prepared but we had a nice, hot and nutritious vegetable soup. We were good to go for bed after a hearty meal and went into the cozy beds after a cold bath (no sunlight for a few days and no hot water as a result) around 8pm to the dismay of the bungalow keepers as it’s not a common thing for them to have visitors going to bed that early. However they were in for greater shocks as the stay went on and more about it later. This really was a dream come true and I was living it for real.

The turn off

The turn off

The path to the bungalow

The path to the bungalow

The front view

The front view

Entering in

Entering in

The dining and living area

The dining and living area

Another view

Another view

One of the bedrooms

One of the bedrooms

Another

Another

The bungalow keeper's part

The bungalow keeper’s part

The overgrown garden

The overgrown garden

Beautiful colors

Beautiful colors

Maha Bovitiya

Maha Bovitiya

The color was amazing

The color was amazing

Just look at that

Just look at that

Some more

Some more

The nests of the crow

The nests of the crow

The chilly travelers

The chilly travelers

Well folks, I’ll leave you for the time being and will see you with the rest of the journey later. The idea of continuing with the same report fell into pieces when I realized how long the report is gonna be. So I’ll cut down the reading time and will come with the second phase later.

By the morning, I’ll probably have forgotten that I was in HP. Let’s see what happens by then.

Take care and keep travelling. This Sri signing off for now.

Sayōnara!!!

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